Motor Age - Feburary 2024 by Endeavor Digital Editions

BRAKE ROTOR RUNOUT PAGE 2 2

THE HYBRID ANALYTICAL ROAD TEST

ROUTINE TESLA SERVICE PAGE 3 0

The key to solving any drivability issue efficiently is piecing together a game plan and sticking to it. PAGE 14

DC-DC CONVERTERS: THE SOLID-STATE ALTERNATOR PAGE 4 4

February 2024

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CONTENTS February 2024 / Vol. 143 #1 22

STARTERS 4 Online 6 Straight Talk 9 Tech Tips

TECHNICAL 14 The Hybrid Analytical Road Test The key to solving any drivability issue efficiently is piecing together a game plan and sticking to it. 14

Brandon Steckler

22 Brake Rotor Runout Addressing brake rotor inspection and setup Mike Mavrigian

30 Routine Tesla Service Maintenance tips for Tesla vehicles Jeff Taylor

40 Performance Under Pressure Tackling drivability faults one coil at a time Brandon Steckler

44 DC-DC Converters: The Solid-State Alternator Why did the first Chevy Volt have two? Craig Van Batenburg

52 The Trainer #145 Data extraction for misfire diagnostics Brandon Steckler

TOOLBOX 54 Automotive Product Guide 57 Technical Service Bulletins

s Motor Age is published 6 times yearly (February, April, June, August, October, December) by Endeavor Business Media, LLC. 201 N Main St 5th Floor, Fort Atkinson, WI 53538. Customer service can be reached toll-free at 877-382-9187 or at MotorAge@omeda.com for magazine subscription assistance or questions. Printed in the USA. Copyright 2024 Endeavor Business Media, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopies, recordings, or any information storage or retrieval system without permission from the publisher. Endeavor Business Media, LLC does not assume and hereby disclaims any liability to any person or company for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions in the material herein, regardless of whether such errors result from negligence, accident, or any other cause whatsoever. The views and opinions in the articles herein are not to be taken as official expressions of the publishers, unless so stated. The publishers do not warrant either expressly or by implication, the factual accuracy of the articles herein, nor do they so warrant any views or opinions by the authors of said articles. Endeavor Business Media provides certain customer contact data (such as customers’ names, addresses, phone numbers, and e-mail addresses) to third parties who wish to promote relevant products, services, and other opportunities that may be of interest to you. If you do not want Endeavor Business Media to make your contact information available to third parties for marketing purposes, simply call toll-free 877382-9187 or email MotorAge@omeda.com and a customer service representative will assist you in removing your name from Endeavor Business Media’s lists. Motor Age does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication, and cannot take responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance of such content. While every precaution is taken to ensure the accuracy of the ad index, its correctness cannot be guaranteed, and the publisher waives all responsibility for errors and omissions AD DEADLINES: Insertion orders–1st of month preceding issue date. Ad materials–5th of month preceding issue date.

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VIDEO

EXCLUSIVE

In the latest edition of Mastering Diagnostics, Motor Age Technical Editor Brandon Steckler walks technicians through a new series of videos that will help them “learn how to learn.” In the first of a three-part series, Brandon helps technicians leverage the power of the tools they’re using, as well as the service information systems that are available. He walks through the research steps to gain insight into system operation, and then takes that information to the vehicle where he carries out a test plan. At the vehicle he implements a four-trace digital storage oscilloscope and low-amp current probe to monitor the operation of the ignition system. Brandon demonstrates waveform analysis and shows how he uses the story the tools tell to evaluate the system and component performance.

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TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS

With the merger of Auto Service Professional and Motor Age, two brands dedicated to providing tips and help to professional automotive technicians, in 2024 Motor Age has added hundreds of Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) to the cache of helpful how-to articles online, www. vehicleservicepros.com. Plus, we’ve added a weekly Wednesday newsletter to make new TSBs available on an ongoing basis.

SCAN TO SEE OUR ARCHIVE OF TSBs ONLINE

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BUSINESS STAFF VP/GROUP PUBLISHER Chris Messer ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Andrew Johnson BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, MOTOR AGE TRAINING Michael Willins CUSTOMER MARKETING MANAGER Leslie Brown PRODUCTION MANAGER Mariah Straub AD SERVICES MANAGER Melissa Meng AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Tracy Skallman SALES COORDINATOR Jillene Williams

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STRAIGHT TALK

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Motor Age Turns 125 and Is Better Than Ever Technical editors bring decades of expertise.

WELCOME TO THE INAUGURAL ISSUE OF THE NEW AND ENHANCED MOTOR Age magazine, which now incorporates elements from Auto Service Professional magazine. Motor Age now features a greater mix of qualified technical writers, including experts from the pages of Auto Service Professional. I’m thrilled to announce that readers will continue to get outstanding insights from both Jeff Taylor and Craig Van Batenburg. Matched with the established and highly respected Technical Editor Brandon Steckler and other knowledgeable contributors, the expertise and experience of our writer base will continue to offer the quality and timely technical information that our readers expect and deserve. The new publication’s merged format is committed to delivering the best and most up-to-date technical material to aid our thriving and always challenging industry.

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MIKE MAVRIGIAN MOTOR AGE // EDITOR mmavrigian@endeavorb2b.com

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Ford A/C Clutch Diagnosis ant pressure instead of a basic pressure switch that opens up at high refrigerant pressures. Ford has also added an A/C evaporator temperature (ACET) sensor. This sensor monitors the evaporator core temperature. If the PCM detects that the evaporator core is freezing up, it will shut down the A/C compressor. Both the ACP and the ACET sensors are highly overlooked, even though their data can be read on most scan tools. The ACET sensor may also be referred to as an evaporator air discharge temperature (EADT) sensor. To test, monitor both sensors on scan data. If your scan tool does not show the parameter identification (PID), use

Avoid Thread Galling In a situation when you deal with an alloy bolt made of aluminum, stainless steel or titanium (among those types with stainless being the most common), there is a higher potential for thread galling during service. This occurs when the surface of the threads experiences excess heat/pressure during removal or installation, which can cause the similar-metal nut and bolt to seize together. To avoid this, here are a few helpful tips: • Lubricate the threads prior to assembly — use anti-seize or thread locker, for instance, depending on the requirement.

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a voltmeter and monitor the sensor voltage at the sensor or preferably at the PCM. If the ACET sensor voltage rises to 4.0 volts or higher, the PCM may interpret that the evaporator core is freezing up and will shut off the compressor. The ACP sensor has a range of zero to 4.9 volts. Roughly speaking, 1 volt equals 100 psi; 2 volts equals 200 psi; 3 volts equals 300 psi, etc. If the PCM sees high voltage from this sensor, again it will shut the A/C compressor down. If the actual A/C pressures are OK and the evaporator core temperature is not freezing, suspect that one of these two sensors is preventing the A/C compressor from coming on.

Switch Installation Torque • Slow down the wrench tightening speed. Fast rotation can easily generate excess heat. • Consider mixing metals. For instance, use a steel nut on a stainless bolt. • Make sure all threads are clean prior to assembly. • Be aware that using a self-locking nut such as a stover-type (deformed exit) can apply too much heat and pressure against the stainless bolt threads. Note: using a fast wrenching speed is likely the leading cause of stainless steel thread galling. Avoid power tools — use only a hand wrench and employ a slower wrench speed.

When servicing oil pressure switches it is important to torque the switch to the correct specification. Citing 2011-2013 Chevy Cruze as but one example, there is the possibility to have one of two switches available for replacement. Each switch requires a different torque specification depending on which engine is involved. Switches designed for engines LUW and LWE require 30 lb-fit, while switches designed for LUJ, LUV and LUU require 15 lb-ft.

PHOTO: GENERAL MOTORS

There are many inputs that the powertrain control module looks at to decide if it will allow the A/C clutch to run. If the engine is running hot, or if there is an engine misfire, the PCM will not allow the A/C clutch to come on. It monitors the throttle position sensor and shuts down the A/C clutch if it detects a wide open throttle. It shuts down the A/C clutch if it detects that the idle is too low. These are all basic inputs that have been around for years. In recent years, Ford has added additional inputs that can also shut down the A/C clutch. On some models, they have replaced the high pressure switch with an air conditioning pressure (ACP) sensor that actually measures refriger-

2/7/24 1:24 PM

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Power Steering Loss

Tips for Repelling Rodents

Another Wheel Torque Reminder

If you have a customer who complains that his or her power steering loses its assist, ask when it happens. If the power steering seems fine when the engine is cold or during warm-up, but loses assist when hot, suspect the power steering fluid. Chances are the fluid has lost its viscosity as a result of overheating. If the power steering fluid level hasn’t been checked for a while and has gotten low, the temperature and pressure in the system may have cooked the fluid (check for darkness and a burnt odor). If this is the case, you must completely drain and flush the system and add fresh fluid.

Wiring harness damage is not an uncommon concern, where rodents enter a vehicle, chew on wiring harnesses and make a nest as a vacation home. In an attempt to avoid this issue, keep bird seed or food products away from the vehicle, and store such items in sealed containers in the garage. While plenty of high tech devices are available (some use ultrasonic noise or pepper and cinnamon,) there’s another easy option. Place Bounce dryer sheets inside the vehicle (in door pockets, rear hatch, trunk, etc.) It’s not a guaranteed fix, but it does work. Don’t place sheets in engine bay areas where it can cause a fire hazard.

We shouldn’t have to remind folks about this, but it is imperative to tighten wheel fasteners to specification, in a criss-cross pattern, with equal torque applied to each fastener. Case in point: a 2019 Ford F-250 was recently brought to a “quickie” service outlet for an oil change and a tire rotation. While the truck rode fine beforehand, after the service, it had a terrible vibration/pedal bounce during braking. The truck was brought to another shop, only to discover that the wheel nuts had been tightened improperly and unevenly. The spec is 165 ft-lb. Some nuts were as low as 86 ft-lb and some were as high as a ridiculous 220 ft-lb. Once re-torqued to spec, the vibration remained because the truck had been driven for a few days, and braking heat removed the original “memory” of the rotors, and the rotors could not be saved. During a runout check, some rotors showed runout as high as 0.020-inch, far beyond factory tolerance. Obviously the fix involved replacing all rotors and pads. Always use a calibrated torque wrench, or at the very least a pneumatic gun with a correct torque stick. Randomly banging away with an impact wrench is a no-no.

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Shorted Wire on Cobalt

BMW Battery Drain

Easier Hub Removal

If you encounter a Chevy Cobalt equipped with a 2.0L engine where the customer states the transmission has a hard shift when going into gear, you may find DTC P1810 stored in the PCM. Scan data may show that the transmission fluid pressure switch signal C (orange wire from the TCM to the transmission) is low (grounded when it should read high). Back-probe signal C (orange) and B (blue) with a multimeter on DC volts and monitor circuit voltage while moving the shifter. The orange wire should show battery voltage in Park and Drive. The blue wire should show battery voltage in Park and Reverse. At all other times, these circuits should be pulled low. You may find that signal C (orange) is pulled low all of the time. If you unplug the transmission connector you may see the circuit does not go high. You may find that the orange wire was shorted to ground next to the oil filter housing (there is a very sharp edge here). Repair the shorted wire and relocate the harness away from the oil filter housing.

Here’s a tip if you’re dealing with a BMW where the battery goes dead after the vehicle has been sitting for a couple of days. Using an amp clamp on the battery negative lead for current draw diagnosis, you may find that, with the vehicle locked and all doors closed to monitor current draw, the vehicle may go to sleep after 73 minutes, then come back to life after an additional five minutes. Find a 2-amp draw, remove fuse 30 and the drain may go away. This may be traced to a door module (window switch). The switch may be warm to the touch. By replacing the door module, the vehicle may go to sleep after 25 minutes, left with only an 80 milliamp draw.

When changing front hubs on a front wheel drive vehicle where bolts secure the hub to the steering knuckle/upright, it’s common for the old hubs to be seized in place due to rust/corrosion. Instead of using a chisel at the mating surface after the bolts have been removed to dislodge the hub mounting, reinstall the mounting bolts from the back side with about a quarter-of-an-inch of thread engagement. Then apply force directly onto the bolt heads using an air hammer. This is a much easier method. This also avoids creating burrs or damage on the upright’s mating surface. Of course, new mounting bolts will be required for installation of the new hub.

Prime the Turbo After replacing the turbocharger with a new or reman unit, it’s a good idea to prime the turbo before starting the engine. Refer to the vehicle’s service manual, but generally add oil to the turbocharger through the oil feed connecting piece. Then start the engine and allow it to idle for approximately one minue without increasing engine speed. This ensures an adequate oil supply to the turbocharger. Make sure that any and all debris — and excess oil — is removed/cleaned from the piping to and from the turbocharger. 11

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Smacked Audi In a case where a 2010 Audi A4 is involved in a collision (this may apply to other vehicles as well), when the airbags deployed, the engine compartment electrical may be stopped by a detonator inertia switch inside the positive battery cable junction box that physically breaks male cable contacts. In this case, the cable connector junction box must be replaced.

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Some service manuals (regarding the 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid 2.3L) will tell you to connect the IDS to the vehicle in order to service the brake pads. This is true because the hydraulic system will periodically activate the brake calipers to check for leaks and air in the system. The way around this using IDS is to unplug fuses No. 24 and 31 in the engine compartment fuse box.

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THE ANALYTICAL ROAD TEST

THE

HYBRID ANALYTICAL

ROAD TEST The key to solving any drivability issue efficiently is piecing together a game plan and sticking to it. And the story doesn’t change for hybrid/electric vehicles. BY BRANDON STECKLER // Technical Editor

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ike any well-laid-out drivability game plan, a technician prefers one that is designed to expose the symptom but also do so efficiently. With the introduction of the electrified powertrain over 20 years ago, technicians still are reluctant to approach faults related to them, especially drivability symptoms. The question is “Why?” Well, a lot of it is due to a lack of familiarity and fear of the unknown. But in my experience, even educated technicians struggle to put the puzzle pieces together. With that, many struggle to even realize what the puzzle pieces are (Figure 1).

FIGURE 1 Regardless of how effortless some of the more advanced drivability technicians make their approach look, it always comes down to having a game plan. This game plan allows them to make discoveries through analysis and each piece of data acts like a piece of a puzzle.

The Players in the Game The first step in understanding how to derive a successful game plan is to identify the components of the system and how they are arranged (or how they work together) to accomplish a goal. The hybrid vehicle not only implements an internal combustion engine (ICE) but also an electrified powertrain. The hybrid powertrain configuration varies in design between vehicle models but typically falls into two different categories: • Parallel configuration • Series-parallel configuration A parallel configuration is one in which both energy sources of the hybrid powertrain (ICE/electrified system) provide output for propulsion simultaneously. An example of this configuration is one from Honda that has been around since the late 1990s, in their Integrated Motor Assist (IMA) system (Figure 2). In this configuration, the electrified source provides supplemental torque to the deliberately underpowered ICE. Both FIGURE 2 The parallel hybrid configuration is designed to allow for both an electrified source and an ICE source of energy for vehicle propulsion. Both sources work simultaneously to accomplish this.

B A T T

ICE INVERTER

MOTOR AGE

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B A T T

the ICE and the single motor-generator (MG) operate together to provide torque input to a transaxle (either a CVT or standard shift manual transaxle). During regenerative braking, energy that is normally wasted in the form of heat from friction is recaptured as negative MG torque. The rotating magnetic field of the MG (as a “generator”) opposes the rotation of the road wheels and slows the vehicle down as electricity is created and used to charge the high voltage (HV) battery. The system allows for sufficient vehicle propulsion with improved fuel economy and a reduction in exhaust emissions. If any issues occur with the electrified powertrain, efficiency will plummet. Technicians must be prepared to address and correct these issues when they arise. Without a thorough understanding of how these systems function, this is a difficult task and can be very costly. An example of a series-parallel hybrid configuration is the Toyota Prius. In this configuration, two (or three, in AWD/4WD configurations) MGs operate alongside an ICE. All these sources can work together, independently, and/or in different combinations to accomplish the goal of propulsion (Figure 3). Diagnosis of either one of these configurations will be significantly smoother with an understanding of the physics involved, particularly Ohm’s law (how current flow, voltage drop, and temperature relate to one another). It’s the series-parallel configuration that will be focused upon to prove the FIGURE 3 The series-parallel hybrid configuration is designed to allow vehicle propulsion from the electrified powertrain, the ICE or a combination of both.

INVERTER

MG2

MG1

Planetary gear set ICE

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THE ANALYTICAL ROAD TEST

point of this article. Regardless of the system’s complexity, a game plan will keep you on the straight and narrow — and from finding yourself out in the weeds. Data-Driven Diagnostics Whether facing a vehicle fault that logs a DTC or one that only exhibits a drivability symptom, a logical approach will be your best course of action. But that can’t exist without understanding what data to look at and what that data set is revealing to you. As I always say, the data should tell a story. This story should reflect aspects of the system being addressed and the conditions in which the vehicle is being operated. Why is this important? Well, the different faults will exhibit under certain operating conditions and may not exhibit under other operating conditions. If we choose to monitor the correct data (which reflects system/component operation) and at the correct time, we are likely to see the results of that fault reflected in the data. It’s this preliminary data that leads us in the right direction and prevents us from spending time on unnecessary disassembly. So, let’s choose a scenario to make my case and point. Consider facing a 2018 Lexus RX450h with the complaint of a no-start situation. The root cause is a fuel tank inadvertently filled with diesel (whoops). A full system scan for DTCs reveals nothing pertaining to the HV battery. Monitoring some basic data from the hybrid control module indicated a huge variation in battery cell voltage (Figure 4). A question that should come to mind in a situation like this is, “What data is available?” This is a function of both the scan tool being used and the data the vehicle manufacturer chooses to provide. This is something that could make the job preliminarily simple on some vehicles and a bit more difficult to acquire on others. In this case, we used the TechStream, the factory Toyota/Lexus/Scion scan tool for a vehicle of this era. The benefit of

014-021_HybridFeatSteckler.indd 16

using a factory scan tool is it is designed to display all the available data for all the nodes on all the networks that communicate with the scan tool. Viewing the available data suggests that each of the battery blocks (made up of battery cell pairs) is monitored for voltage (and temperature, as well as resistance, if desired). With that, a concern with battery cell voltage should entice another question, “Does a true battery cell voltage issue exist, or is an issue with a malfunctioning voltage sensor circuit present?” This is a valid concern because I have personally witnessed both potential faults on many a hybrid vehicle. A third question is, “How can we differentiate between the two potential faults preliminarily and without much invested time or energy (no disassembly)?” This is where the hybrid analytical road test shines. Developing the Diagnostic Game Plan As mentioned previously, a properly conducted analytical road test will include the pertinent data about the system you are addressing and data regarding the driving conditions in which the fault presented itself. Logic will tell you that this analytical road test will vary depending on the type of fault and the system in which the fault resides. In this case, the fault resides in the HV battery module, and loaded driving conditions would’ve flushed the fault to the surface. With a heavy load on the vehicle, the electrified powertrain will be active, and a significant HV battery current will be flowing at that time. The problem is that this vehicle won’t run. The HV battery is depleted from excessive cranking, and we are trying to determine if it is salvageable or requires replacement. The question we should be trying to answer in most cases like this is regarding a true battery cell block electrical issue

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A GAME PLAN WILL KEEP YOU ON THE STRAIGHT AND NARROW — AND FROM FINDING YOURSELF OUT IN THE WEEDS.” or skewed inputs from the sensors that report data to the ECU. This will force us to use our knowledge of electricity and how a battery’s capacitance comes into play. Understanding the physics involved helps in our diagnostic approach. To evaluate the decline of a battery’s state of health is like viewing the battery as a storage tank. Even though a battery’s state of charge may be sufficient (similar to a full storage tank) a battery’s state of health indicates how much storage capacity is available (poor state of health is like having a shrunken storage tank). What good is having a full tank of fuel if the tank only holds a pint? So, how does this affect our approach? Well, a true battery cell block performance issue would yield unwanted resistance and associated heat as electrical current flows in and out of the battery. The capacitance (the battery’s ability to store energy) is reduced. As a result, the measured cell voltage should increase rapidly during charging conditions and decrease rapidly during discharging conditions — much like the filling and emptying of a small fuel tank. These expected results are due to the reduction of battery cell capacitance. How do these anticipated results differ from an issue with a voltage sensor (a

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3 volt differential

FIGURE 4 This data capture demonstrates a very large difference in battery block voltages. This battery was damaged during excessive engine cranking.

The Proof Is in the Pudding The blue, green and red traces of the graph represent voltage values from three different battery blocks. The yellow trace represents the current load on the HV battery. Looking at the graphed data between battery modules, the evidence is clear on which of the battery blocks is

MOTOR AGE

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200 mV diffential 1000 mV diffential

FIGURE 5 This graphed data capture from a Toyota TechStream factory scan tool tells a story. It demonstrates the difference between healthy and faulted battery blocks when the system is placed under load.

20 Amp load

FIGURE 6 This corrosion can occur at battery block terminals and create true battery block performance issues and/ or perceived block issues from skewed voltage sensor readings.

experiencing the issue (red and green). During the discharging/high-load conditions of engine cranking (and/or under electrified system propulsion), the suspect battery blocks’ voltage levels dropped significantly faster than the other healthy

PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN FORRO

perceived performance fault)? I hypothesize that a sensor issue will not be affected by the heat associated with the current flowing in and out of the HV battery, as described above. Unwanted resistance in a sensor circuit will leave the perceived voltage to be displayed as “lower than normal” under every driving condition due to the basic operation of the thermistor circuit. Said another way, it’s the varying driving conditions of the hybrid analytical road test that preliminarily determine which fault is likely present on the vehicle being addressed. To make this data come alive, we will capitalize on the graphing function of the scan tool to make the faults visible (Figure 5).

battery block. Although there are 14 blocks, only three are being displayed. Further evidence of a true battery issue would be present by simply viewing the temperature PIDs. Any time current flows across resistance, a voltage drop

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THE ANALYTICAL ROAD TEST

occurs. With voltage drop comes heat (how a defroster grid works). A temperature PID associated with the suspect battery block will correlate with a voltage drop issue at that module if a true battery block issue is present. If a voltage sensor circuit issue was creating a perceived battery issue and causing the fault, there would not be a rapid increase in temperature (correlating with current flow). The point? Sufficient evidence would be present reflecting what is OK with the system, and what we should expect to find during further, more involved disassembly. In other words, investing more time will not be a waste of time. Investigating further — with customer approval of the additional, justified diagnostic time — will be time well spent. We are sure to find the root cause of the fault associated with the failure of HV battery block(s).

Think of it like this; imagine knowing ahead of time if replacement of an HV battery (which costs thousands of dollars) was needed. Imagine now if you found that out after disassembly, and then learned the customer did not wish to follow through with the repair. These undesirable circumstances are easily avoidable. It would be typical to see corrosion as a cause of voltage drop as displayed here (Figure 6). The evidence displayed here correlates with the data obtained. Many times, this corrosion is found at the battery block terminals themselves. It’s the combination of the data selected and the operating conditions in which the fault occurred that yielded this diagnosis. Although this picture is not from the vehicle we are addressing, it certainly yields similar data. This is because it was derived from loading the

HV battery. If the fault was only exhibited on the road, it could surely be established by the hybrid analytical road test. Here is another example from a different vehicle with a battery block issue (Figure 7). We are using a Snap-on Verus to demonstrate how voltage drop prevents block V10 from moving electrical current at the same rate as the other blocks. To satisfy curiosity, let’s take this in a different direction and discuss the data (under similar operating conditions) if the fault was not at the battery itself, but instead was a perceived battery issue due to a faulted voltage sensor circuit. The graphed data shown here is crucial (Figure 8). Looking first at the numbers to the left, there is no apparent fault present because the refresh rate of the scan data isn’t fast enough to reflect the fault in numerical format, but it’s the graphed data that reveals the fault easily. It not only

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PHOTO COURTESY OF DAVE WAGNER

FIGURE 7- This graphed data capture from a Snap-on scan tool demonstrates another example of a faulted battery block.

indicates that battery block voltage in block V 0 1 a n d V 0 2 a re changing rapidly, but it occurs even without load. This is one piece of the puzzle that offers insight into the actual performance of the battery and its state of health being satisfactory. Furthermore, the battery block voltage is low under all operating conditions. This

is the second piece of the puzzle, and it offers insight that points toward a voltage sensor circuit issue. The voltage sensors are located at the battery block terminals (Figure 9).

Looking a bit deeper, we could’ve discovered a third piece of the puzzle relating to the HV battery’s capacitance, through the dynamic portion of this hybrid analytical road test.

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THE ANALYTICAL ROAD TEST

In this example, as electrical current would move in and out of the battery, the rate at which the individual cells take on voltage would be unlike the previous example (with damaged battery blocks). In this example of a voltage sensor circuit fault, the rate at which voltage changes would be similar to the other, non-suspect battery blocks. This would offer insight into the state of health and that the battery blocks’ performance would be like the others. Said another way, there would not likely be a true battery module voltage drop issue, but more likely a perceived issue (voltage sensor circuit issue). Drawing a Diagnosis It should be clear to see that although vehicle technology has changed (and will continue to change) as time goes by, it’s up to us, as professional technicians, to adapt

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FIGURE 9 These battery block voltage sensors are individual thermistor circuits that report to an ECU for diagnostic purposes. Corrosion here creates inaccuracies and causes system faults.

to this changing technology and how we approach drivability faults. However, one thing that hasn’t changed is the mindset of the approach. We should always strive for three things: • To understand how the components of the systems work together to accomplish a goal. • To reference service information for the applicable wiring diagrams and system description and operation. • To acquire supportive data that displays not only how the system is functioning but also the conditions in which the fault surfaces. In other words, strive to collect and analyze the data that tells a story. If you take those steps your chances of success are not only great but will also allow for that success in an efficient manner (Figure 10). But don’t take my word for it.

Knowledge

PHOTO 33091442 © PRILLFOTO | DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN FORRO

PHOTO COURTESY OF DAVE WAGNER

FIGURE 8 This graphed data capture from a Snap-on scan tool demonstrates two faulted block sensor circuits. It’s a combination of the frequency of the signal changes, the amplitude, and the fact that it is occurring without significant load on the HV battery that provides insight into the nature of the fault.

Information Proper Tooling FIGURE 10 These three legs of the stool keep it upright just like technicians require three things to stay successful: proper information, proper tooling, and the fundamental knowledge to do their job properly.

Apply these techniques and see for yourself. I’m confident you will find yourself at the front of the pack when it comes to diagnostic skillset, but the confidence that comes with it is the true gift.

BRANDON STECKLER is the technical editor of Motor Age magazine. He holds multiple ASE certifications. He is an active instructor and provides telephone and live technical support, as well as private training, for technicians all across the world.

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BRAKE ROTOR RUNOUT

Brake Rotor Runout Addressing brake rotor inspection and setup BY MIKE MAVRIGIAN // Editor

WHENEVER SERVICING BRAKE rotors, always take the time to take a few measurements, even if the customer hasn’t complained about a bouncing brake pedal. Measure lateral runout, disc thickness and measure for thickness variation. Poorly machined or abused rotors, or rotors that have been warped as a result of uneven or over-tightening of the wheel fasteners can easily create a pulsating brake pedal. Aside from the annoying feel of this, if the pedal is pulsating/bouncing, this means that the pads are not in a consistent, full contact with the disc surface — which results in a varying contact patch between the disc and pad, which reduces braking efficiency and potentially generates hot

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spots on the rotors which will increase the chance of warping. Measuring lateral runout is a simple process, and there’s no reason to avoid the task, whether you’re dealing with used or even new rotors. Why check new rotors? While the new rotor may be fine, mounting it to its hub and checking it may allow you to discover a runout issue with the hub. With the wheel removed, install all of the wheel fasteners to secure the rotor to the hub. Installing only two or three fasteners can result in an erroneous runout reading, which can easily fool you into thinking that the rotor has more runout than it actually has. This is especially crit-

ical when dealing with thin-hat rotors. Uneven and incomplete deflection at the hub can easily result in warped discs that display excessive runout. Always install and fully torque to specification all of the wheel’s fasteners. In order to avoid damaging the nut (or bolt) seat surfaces, it’s also a good idea to install conical washers between the fasteners and rotor hat surfaces. As an example, by installing only two nuts on a five-bolt hub, you might obtain a runout reading of 0.005-inch. By installing three nuts the reading might be 0.003-inch. But by installing all five, the reading may be 0.002-inch, which may be within manufacturer’s spec. (Always refer to the vehicle

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maker’s runout specifications.) Torque all fasteners to equal value. Mount a dial (or digital) indicator to a stationary area that doesn’t move in relation to wheel rotation (frame, strut, etc.) Indicator mounts are available with magnetic bases or clamp-on designs (usually featuring a vise-grip). Position the indicator’s plunger at 90-degrees to the disc surface, and push the plunger in to provide about 0.050-inch preload. Then zero the gauge face. Ideally, the indicator’s plunger should feature a small roller bearing at the tip to provide a consistent reading. The plunger tip should be placed about a half-inch inboard from the outer edge of pad contact. Slowly rotate the rotor and

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locate the low spot, then zero the gauge again. Using a Sharpie, make a reference mark on the disc at the lowest reading location. Slowly rotate the rotor, observing the gauge, noting the highest reading. The difference represents the amount of runout. Vehicle manufacturer specifications may vary, but as a rule of thumb, the maximum allowable runout is about 0.001inch to 0.002-inch for most applications. Depending on the rotor design, you may be able to correct for runout using an on-car lathe, or you may need to simply replace the rotor. However, before replacing a rotor that you suspect of having excess runout, make a matchmark on the rotor hat and a corresponding wheel stud, then

remove the rotor and reinstall at the next clockwise position and re-check runout. You may have a stack-up situation where combined tolerances between the rotor and the hub are creating excess runout. Continue to relocate the rotor on the hub, checking runout with each change. You may be able to install the rotor with the high point of the rotor aligned with the low point of hub runout, thereby potentially correcting the runout issue. In a situation where you find a lateral runout condition (where a stack-up of tolerance between the rotor and hub exists), you may be able to easily correct this without replacing parts by using a tapered correction shim between the rotor and

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BRAKE ROTOR RUNOUT

hub. These shims are available to correct problems from initial runout of 0.003-inch to 0.006-inch. Disc Thickness Rotor disc thickness variation is also known as parallelism. Both sides of the rotor must be parallel to prevent pedal pulsations. Measure rotor disc thickness using a micrometer. (Avoid using a caliper. A micrometer will provide a much more accurate measurement). Avoid making any decision based on only one measurement location. Even if one measurement location is within the allowable thickness, measuring for thickness variation at several spots may locate a thickness that is too close to minimum. This is sort of a double-check of findings that result from checking runout. Generally speaking, allowable thickness variation should be no more than 0.0005-inch. (Some OEs may spec a tolerance range of 0.001-inch to as little as 0.0004-inch.) Again, refer to the manufacturer’s specification. Thickness limits usually can be found on the inside of the rotor hub hat. The thickness measurements should be taken approximately 0.40-inch (10 mm) from the rotor’s outer edge. Measure rotor disc thickness at a minimum of six locations, but preferably at eight equidistant points along the rotor — at 12 o’clock, 45 degrees, 90 degrees, 135 degrees, 180 degrees, 225 degrees, 270 degrees and 315 degrees. Record all measurements. The total thickness variation equals the maximum thickness minus the minimum thickness. If total variation is beyond the manufacturer’s specification for that vehicle, the rotor may be resurfaced (only using an on-the-car caliper mounted lathe) — or replaced. It’s best to monitor both runout and thickness variation at the same time. Checking lateral runout and thickness

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variation applies to all vehicle applications, and should not be limited only to vehicles that exhibit a brake pulsation issue. Ideally, these checks should be an integral part of any complete brake job. Hot Spots In the days of old (not that long ago), brake pads were made of relatively soft materials that contained asbestos and other material mixes. They tended to wear the rotor evenly. Today, many pad materials contain ceramic, designed to transfer a small amount of pad material to the rotor. If the rotor has no excess runout, the transfer is evenly deposited on the disc face. If the rotor has excessive runout, the transfer takes place unevenly, resulting in higher build-up at the point(s) of higher runout. This results in hot spots, resulting in varying degrees of friction between the pad and rotor (causing a “slip-stick”). The excess, or uneven buildup can also be caused by improper caliper piston return, rusted or sticking caliper slides or even worn/loose hub bearings. If you see uneven bluing wear on the discs, suspect this uneven pad transfer, resulting from too much runout or the aforementioned caliper issues. Remember: excessive rotor runout can be caused by worn or loose hub bearings and may not be caused by the rotor itself. Pre-Installation Wash Whether you’re dealing with new or used rotors, always clean the disc surfaces thoroughly. While spraying brake cleaning solvent is viable for certain applications, it’s not the ideal final-cleaning product for brake rotors. Prior to installing any rotor (new, used or reconditioned), each rotor should be washed with hot soapy water (as opposed to brake clean solvents, which

MEASURE THE rotor disc for thickness and compare your findings to the minimum thickness (which should appear on the rear of the rotor hat area). This is necessary when dealing with used rotors and/ or re-machined rotors. It’s also a good idea to measure thickness even on a new rotor. WHILE YOU may measure rotor thickness with a standard micrometer, using a micrometer that is specifically designed for rotor thickness measurement is preferred. Notice this example features a flat base on one side with a pointed anvil on the opposite side. This will provide a more accurate measurement.

TAKE THICKNESS measurements approximately a half-inch inboard from the outer edge. Take measurements at a variety of equidistant locations. IN ORDER to conduct lateral runout measurements, a dial (or digital) indicator is mandatory. The dial indicator requires a mount that will attach rigidly to a non-moving surface, such as the flexible-locking mount shown here.

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(COURTESY RAYBESTOS)

WHEN SECURING the rotor to the hub in preparation of a runout check, it’s a good idea to install conical washers between the wheel nuts and rotor hat. This provides a more uniform flat-seat contact at the rotor hat.

(COURTESY RAYBESTOS)

tend to dry too fast) to remove any metal fragments left over from the machining process. These small particles can impede the pads/shoes bedding process and cause noise or affect the brake pedal feel and stopping distance. Many brake experts and even some leading brake manufacturers specifically recommend the use of hot water and Dawn dishwashing liquid and a nylon bristle brush. While other cleaning agents may work, the Dawn brand is very popular and seems to work reliably for removing oils and particles from the machined surfaces. You can certainly follow up with brake cleaning solvent, but don’t rely on the solvent alone. Seriously, wash with Dawn and then dry. In most cases a new rotor is going to be installed, but if we just machined it, either on the vehicle or a lathe, again, it’s critical to wash the rotor clean with mild soap and hot water to remove all the metal debris and graphite from the previous brake pads and/or the machining process. When not properly removed from the surface of the freshly machined rotor, materials left over from machining — including those too small to be visible by the naked eye — can be transferred to the new pads, and this can result in noise, uneven braking and a host of other issues. Many times the

THIS IS a specialty mic designed for rotor thickness measurement. The combination of one pointed and one flat anvil provide a more accurate measurement as opposed to a traditional micrometer that has two opposing flat anvils.

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problem is fixed by changing the pads that are contaminated with the small machining particles with a new set of non-contaminated pads. But the actual issue was improper cleaning of the machined rotor. Even when you’re dealing with new rotors, cleaning the rotor disc surfaces is imperative to remove deposits and/or anti-rust materials that were applied at the factory prior to shipping. Removing all foreign material exposes the microscopic surface finish peaks and valleys to provide proper friction material transfer onto the disc surface. With that said, note that OE and aftermarket rotors are available today with a special “E” coating that prevents (or at least dramatically delays) surface rusting. An E-coated rotor has the appearance of being painted with a gray or silver paint. This coating is applied to the entire rotor, reducing the chance of visible rotor edges and hats from turning brown. The coating also prevents rusting in the cooling vanes and the rotor’s rear hub face. A coated rotor package will likely include a caution to avoid cleaning this coating off. It’s best to avoid any solvents on the rotor, even on the disc surfaces. If you’re dealing with brand new coated rotors, just make sure that no oils, dirty fingerprints, etc. are on the disc’s surfaces. At the risk of repeating myself, clean by washing in hot water and Dawn. While the E-coating will likely not be harmed with the application of a quality-brand brake cleaning solvent, you’re

IF A rotor requires resurfacing, it must be mounted squarely to the lathe arbor. Cutting bits must be kept sharp.

USING AN adjustable mount and a dial or digital indicator, attach the adjustable mount to a rigid, stationary location that does not move in relation to the hub, such as a steering knuckle. Notice the arm here secures to the upright via vice grips. Place the dial indicator probe onto the rotor surface, about 1 inch or so from the outer edge, making sure that the indicator’s probe/plunger is positioned 90-degrees relative to the rotor. Place a slight preload of about 0.050-inch against the rotor disc surface and lock the adjustable arm in place to obtain a rigid position for the indicator. Next, carefully zero the indicator. Without disturbing the indicator, slowly rotate the rotor smoothly through a full 360 degrees, while noting the indicator’s deviations from initial zero. Refer to the vehicle spec for maximum allowable runout.

safer by only washing and rinsing. By all means, never use a strong solvent such as lacquer thinner to clean a coated rotor, as this can ruin the coating. ABS Glitch After Hub Replacement Here’s a useful tip from Raybestos. This applies to all ABS-equipped vehicles. The ABS light may be on and/or false ABS activation may occur following wheel bearing hub replacement on only one side of an axle. If you diagnose a bad hub bearing on one side of a vehicle and the ABS wheel speed sensor or tone ring is integral to the bearing, you may need additional repairs to restore proper ABS functioning. In many cases, replacing one hub bearing will cause the driver to feel ABS false activation when coming to a slow stop on dry pavement. False activation is usually described as a pulse in the brake pedal when not expected. The pulsation comes from the ABS valves cycling the supposedly locked up wheel. This is due to the difference in signal strength from the wheel speed sensors (WSS) side to side. The problem is usually

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BRAKE ROTOR RUNOUT

WHETHER DEALING with new or used rotors, prior to installing, it is imperative to properly clean the disc surfaces to remove any oils, preservatives or machining debris from the micro-scratch peaks and valleys. Avoid relying on a spray brake cleaning product for this. The use of Dawn dishwashing liquid is highly recommended, with hot water and a nylon bristle brush.

associated with air gap difference or wiring and/or connector integrity. In many cases, removing the WSS from the other side, if possible, and cleaning the mounting surface may repair the problem. The rust buildup actually lifts the WSS from the bearing, increasing the air gap and weakening the signal. Another possible issue is play in the bearing causing sine wave frequency change and/or AC voltage variation. The new bearing will have little to no play, while the remaining hub has acceptable play but can still affect signal

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strength. Again, the difference in signal from side to side may be enough to trigger false activation. If WSS is integral and not serviceable, replacing the hub bearings in pairs may be the only answer. The ABS is activating as designed, so no warning light will be illuminated in most cases. At least discuss this with the customer to prevent unnecessary surprise repairs in the future and prevent the dreaded “it never did this before you worked on it” conversation. In some cases, the issue may not be caused by an air gap concern. Citing certain 1996-2005 Audi models as an example,

the ABS light may be on under light braking when the wheels are not locking up. Check for damaged wheel speed sensors or mismatched tires. Out of specification wheel speed sensor air gaps are not the likely issue. The most likely problem will be tiny cracks in the ABS tone rings found at the outer CV joint, or inside the rotor or wheel hub. The best way to identify a crack or damaged tone ring is to use a lab scope. With the scope attached to the sensor, turn the ABS ring. A normal wheel speed sensor will show a smooth, round uninterrupted sine wave that increases in amplitude and frequency as the wheel speed increases. If a crack in the tone ring is present, a notch or a flat spot on the wave form will be present. If a scope isn’t available, clean the tone ring and inspect carefully with a

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bright light. Cracks normally form at the base of the teeth. While shop time is obviously valuable, the use of an impact wrench is not recommended for wheel installation. Especially in the case of alloy wheels and thin-hat brake rotors, use only a calibrated torque wrench, and always follow the proper tightening sequence in order to evenly spread the clamping load across the hub face. Rotor Resurfacing The rotor’s purpose is to provide a rubbing surface for the friction material and to dissipate heat during braking. And, in order to have trouble-free performance, the rotor surface must be smooth regardless of whether it has a directional or a non-directional finish.

If the rotor surface is too rough, the brake pads won’t perform from the start. As the vehicle is driven, the driver will likely apply excessive pedal pressure in order to stop. This will lead to overheating the brakes, which can lead to rotor warping and annoying brake vibration and noise. The result: the customer will likely demand that the brake job be re-done. Using a rotor micrometer, measure the rotor’s thickness to make sure that machining will not reduce it beyond the specified minimum thickness. Clean the inner and outer hat area so that it is free of rust and corrosion to remove deposits that would hinder proper mounting to the lathe. One or two fast cuts may be needed to clean the surface and correct any runout.

IF THE rotor requires resurfacing, ideally this should be done using an on-car lathe. This allows you to resurface the rotor while still mounted to the axle hub, thereby eliminating any stack-up tolerances. Once the rotor has been resurfaced, matchmarks should be applied for future service, as the rotor has now been “matched” to that specific hub.

The last cut should be made with the slowest possible lathe speed to provide a finish that’s as smooth as possible. A directional finish requires a bit more time. If the machining cut is taken too quickly or if the brake lathe bits are in poor condition, the rotor’s surface will likely have shallow cutting grooves. Microscopic peaks and valleys reduce the surface contact of the pad and result in poor initial stopping power. The customer

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BRAKE ROTOR RUNOUT

may also complain of a “thumping” noise due to the pad moving up and down in the caliper on the peaks and valleys as it tries to properly seat itself. Ideally, once the rotor has been finished, you should use a profilometer to inspect for a smooth finish. (It’s a handheld tool designed specifically to measure a rotor’s roughness average.) Granted, your shop may not have access to a profilometer, as they can be on the pricier side. But if you really want to be picky with regard to your resurfacing efforts, a profilometer is extremely useful. Most new OEM and quality aftermarket rotors typically have a finish somewhere between 30 and 60 microinches RA (roughness average). In their quest to reduce weight and increase fuel economy, carmakers have been installing the lightest rotors possible. It has gotten to the point that most of them are akin to Bic lighters: You just toss them out after use. The rotor is used up by the time the car is due for its first brake job. Rotors that are at or below the minimum thickness often lead to high pedal effort or long pedal travel. If you wish to salvage a rotor, you may be able to machine it, preferably on the vehicle using an on-car lathe. This ensures that the rotor is true, and that any stack-up tolerances between the rotor and hub are corrected at the same time. If so, there are three measurements you need to keep in mind: nominal thickness, machine-to thickness and discard thickness. Nominal is the thickness of a new rotor. The machine-to thickness is the limit that will provide safe braking with new pads. Discard thickness means it’s ready for recycling as scrap. A major cause of brake noise is a poor rotor finish. A surface finish of less than 40 RMS (root mean squared) is usually alright — before creating the non-directional finish. Although there are comparison gauges to check the finish, you can get relatively close with a pen and paper. If you can draw

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a smooth line across the face of the rotor, it is probably okay. A dotted line is not. Concerning pad and rotor burnishing (bed-in), new or newly machined rotors benefit from burnishing by 15-20 aggressive stops from about 40-50 mph. Allow time for the brakes to cool a bit between stops. Burnishing can remove surface rust from rotors that have been sitting in a humid environment. It also helps break in new pads. Particles from the brakes’ friction material are transferred to the rotor surfaces during burnishing and improve stopping performance. Leaving this step out often results in the customer returning and complaining that the brakes don’t work well enough. Bear in mind that some brake pad makers may suggest that no burnishing is required, but it’s always a good idea to bed the pads in yourself to make sure that proper pad-to-rotor transfer occurs. A hand-held digital infrared pyrometer is a useful diagnostic tool that allows quick and easy measurement of rotor heat, following a test drive. For instance, if the vehicle tends to pull right or left during braking, or if you suspect a brake drag during non-braking, taking a heat measurement of the right and left rotors provides a comparison. For instance, if the left rotor temperature measures 200 degrees Fahrenheit and the right rotor measures 400 degrees Fahrenheit after a series of braking stops, this may indicate a weak braking action on the left rotor (caliper piston or sliding caliper sticking, etc.) Proper torquing of not just the wheels but all the parts and pieces of the brake system on reassembly is important. Many parts need to be tight but not just impact gun tight. The proper torquing of caliper brackets is essential yet not something many of us do. Take the time to look up the specs. You will be surprised how tight many need to be to prevent unwanted noises. If you are machining a rotor, a poor finish can easily create a noise. The rotor’s

WHEN INSTALLING wheels, always follow the manufacturer’s torque specs, and tighten wheel fasteners in a criss-cross manner in order to evenly distribute clamping load. Uneven tightening can result in a warped rotor, leading to brake pedal bounce/vibrations due to installer-caused runout.

machined surface finish should be non-directional and of the proper smoothness to allow the pad material transfer which creates the correct coefficient of friction. Improper machining can result in a record player effect on rotors that result in a slapstick banging noise as the pads are pulled away and released, so attention must be paid to bit condition, machining speeds and the final machined finish. Both wheels and wheel bearings need to be properly torqued to prevent excessive runout. Unevenly torqued or over torqued wheels can easily cause rotor distortion.

MIKE MAVRIGIAN has written thousands of automotive technical magazine articles involving a variety of specialties, from engine building to wheel alignment, and has authored more than a dozen books that crisscross the automotive spectrum. Mike operates Birchwood Automotive, an Ohio shop that builds custom engines and performs vintage vehicle restorations. The shop also features a professional photo studio to document projects and to create images for articles and books.

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ROUTINE TESLA SERVICE

Routine Tesla Maintenance tips for Tesla vehicles BY JEFF TAYLOR

TESLA, WHICH WAS founded in 2003 and released its first vehicle to the public in 2008, is widely regarded as “the new kid on the block.” Many shops have been wary of Tesla automobiles with proprietary equipment and technology, mobile service fleets and fewer moving components in general. Some shop owners have been dissatisfied with Tesla’s entry into the market. It is difficult to charge for an oil change when there is no oil to change. Some perceive Tesla vehicles as a problem, while others see them as an opportunity. Tesla has opened its doors to independent service businesses, providing access to diagnostic software that was previously restricted. Tesla vehicles may be EVs with some distinct differences compared to other vehicles we routinely work on, but there are many commonalities. They still have hydraulic brakes, rubber tires and a low voltage system that

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powers almost everything except provide the car with motive electrical power. However, technicians must understand what’s different with Teslas to perform the necessary repairs on these vehicles. It is also critical to maintain safety, as these vehicles, like all other high voltage vehicles, have more than enough voltage onboard to do serious bodily harm or worse. But we are not looking at the servicing of any high-voltage system or components in this article, just regular routine maintenance on systems we are all very familiar with. Better system understanding is promoted by service information. Consulting service documentation to become acquainted with the systems and components is a great first step. While official service information was previously difficult to obtain, Tesla now makes it available to techs for free at service.tesla.com after setting up an account.

Let’s start with the low voltage electrical system. Each Tesla features two batteries: a high-voltage (HV) battery pack and a standard low-voltage battery that powers the car’s supplementary systems just like any other car. Tesla used a compact AGM-type 12V lead acid battery until the introduction of the 15.5V Lithium-ion battery pack/module on some 2021 model vehicles. The low-voltage battery can fail or run flat, particularly if the car is left for an extended period and the main HV battery has reached its low energy mode. If the low-voltage battery goes dead, the doors won’t unlock, the computers won’t turn on, the primary HV battery won’t charge and there is no access to the low-voltage system because the hood or frunk (as they are called on EVs) won’t open because it needs a low-voltage power supply.

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the cable assembly, allowing you to pull the release that opens the trunk. Now that we have gained access to the low-voltage system, there are specific differences in how we will boost these systems to get the vehicle to open the doors, enable ready mode and allow the HV battery to be recharged. First, we need to identify what system we are dealing with. We will either have a small 12V AGM battery or a 15.5V Lithium-ion module/battery pack. We will not see either until we remove the cowl and other cover pieces under the frunk to gain access.

What To Do With a Dead 12V Battery First, gain access to the low-voltage system. Depending on the model and year Tesla you are working on, there are unusual ways to gain access to the low-voltage system. Newer Model X models feature a removable panel in the front lower grille area (driver’s side) that is removed using a small screwdriver. Once removed, that cover will expose a set of jumper wires that will be used to release the hood latches. Earlier, Model X had a physical set of positive and negative terminals that were accessed after removing a front grille bezel. Once the wires or terminals are exposed, we can attach a booster pack to them, and the hood latches will release. It is important to note that these wires and jumper terminals only supply power to the electrical hood latches and will not charge the low-voltage battery. The 2016 and up Model S have a set of release cables

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(left and right) tucked in behind the front inner wheel liners. To open the trunk on these you need to remove some of the wheel liner fasteners to gain access to

To Perform a 12V Jump Start The basic sequence is as follows: • Gain access to the 12V battery or the 12V charging point. • To enable the 12V systems to operate, connect a 12V jumper or charger to the 12V battery. To avoid difficulties, it is recommended to charge the 12V battery for at least five minutes before attempting to do anything with the car, including charging the HV battery using the Universal Mobile Connector (UMC) charging cable. • After five minutes, connect the car to a car charger or connect the UMC. It is best not to utilize an HV rapid or supercharger at first if using the UMC.

BOOSTING A dead low-voltage battery on a Tesla will involve gaining access under the trunk. Be aware that different models have different access procedures. This Model 3 involves removing an access point on the lower left front bumper cover. This allows access to attach a booster to the hood release power point wires.

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ROUTINE TESLA SERVICE

• Charge the HV battery to a reasonable level of charge before driving. Note: The 12V AGM battery can be tested and replaced just like on a regular non-electric vehicle. To Perform a Lithium-ion Jump Start • Gain access to the Lithium-ion battery. • Attach a compatible booster pack for 15.5V lithium-ion batteries to the under-frunk booster terminals and then follow the same procedure as directed in the 12V system. Note: If the 15.5V lithium-ion battery fails and needs to be replaced, it is a module and will need to be programmed when replaced. CAUTION: Do not use another Tesla to jump start the vehicle, and don’t use another vehicle to boost a weak/dead low-voltage battery on a Tesla, as vehicle damage can occur. Service Mode Before performing maintenance on a Tesla, make sure the vehicle is in Service Mode. Service Mode restricts the vehicle’s speed to 6 mph, but more importantly it disables remote system access and all cameras. Tesla has equipped their vehicles with Sentry Mode. When Sentry Mode is enabled, a client can remotely activate the vehicle cameras allowing them to observe, communicate and even film what is going on around their Tesla vehicle. Service Mode disables Sentry Mode and disconnects the customer from the Tesla mobile app on their phone. The vehicle will remain in Service Mode until deactivated, so if the tech enters service mode, they need to remember to exit it as well. Entering Service Mode: There are two different methods. Both use the vehicle’s touchscreen. Method 1: Touch and hold the Tesla “T” icon on the screen for 10 seconds to bring up a pop-up screen asking for a code, which you’ll enter as “service.” This technique may not work because Tesla’s vehicle software is constantly being up-

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THIS SHOWS the location of the low-voltage battery system that runs almost all the systems on this Tesla. This shows the older lead-acid AGM battery that is located under all the plastic cowl pieces. If the vehicle has the new lithium-ion low-voltage battery, it is in the same area, but looks more like a module than a battery.

dated, and certain functions are being shut out or modified, so you may have to use the second method. Method 2: Touch CONTROLS (the car icon) then touch SOFTWARE on the vehicle touchscreen. An image of the car and badge is presented. Hold your finger on the enormous word “MODEL” for four seconds, then let go. Enter “service” into the access code area using the on-screen keyboard, then press OK. The word “SERVICE MODE” is overlayed in red on the touchscreen. Newer touchscreen firmware versions have a red border around the touchscreen edges. Exiting Service Mode: To exit Service Mode, press and hold the T logo for 10 seconds, then enter “service” in the pop-up box using the on-screen keyboard, and then press OK. This turns off Service Mode. It is essential to exit Service

USING THE proper hoist support pads will allow the Tesla to be raised with a jack or hoist to allow for service, without damaging the body or the high-voltage battery pack. This is critical.

TESLA VEHICLES have a lot of cameras and when servicing these vehicles, the tech can shut these off by using the center stack dash and entering service mode. This will stop the owner from having access to the onboard cameras, but it also limits the vehicle’s speed to 6 mph.

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ROUTINE TESLA SERVICE

Mode before returning the vehicle to the customer. Lifting a Tesla Do not use the vehicle’s side rails when lifting or jacking a Tesla. The proper jack/hoist adapters are required. Using the correct lift points and adapters will avoid damaging the HV battery. Tesla lift adapters are readily available online and in the aftermarket. Some Tesla vehicles are equipped with air suspension that must be deactivated before jacking or raising the vehicle on a hoist. To do that we need to enter Jack mode. Jack Mode Activation Setting Procedure: • Power up the touchscreen. • Touch Controls > Service > Jack Mode Resetting Procedure: • Power up the touchscreen. • Touch Controls > Service > Jack Mode. Note: Suspension height can only be lowered when all doors are closed. Brake Service Tesla recommends that the brake fluid be evaluated for contaminants every two years and replaced as needed (Tesla wants the fluid tested at the caliper bleeders.) Tesla also recommends that the front and rear calipers and brake components are cleaned and lubricated every 12,500 miles or once a year if the vehicle is operated in areas that are using road deicers (such as salt). Tesla service information recommends the use of a specific “Silaramic Brake” grease. This grease is a pure silicone dry-film lubricant with a high concentration of a proprietary ceramic lubricant. It is designed to protect in the harshest braking conditions and temperatures. Tesla service information shows the specific lubrication points that this special brake grease is to be applied on the calipers, brake abutments and brake shims and pad backing plates. While many of the repair methods for replacing brake components on a Tesla are

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similar to other vehicles, there are some things that are different. Retracting the rear calipers is an example of that. When servicing the rear brakes of a Tesla, you will need to retract the electric rear calipers to service or replace any rear brake components. There are special tools available to perform this task. Some of these tools are dedicated factory service tools but there are now aftermarket tools that are readily available that will perform this task. For the Model 3, I use a 9-volt battery and caliper cable connector (purchased online), that will easily unwind the parking brake before the caliper piston is pushed back. You can also use the factory scan tool and its bi-directional capabilities to retract the rear calipers, but most shops/techs do not have that technology yet. After a brake service or replacement, the brakes must be properly burnished to ensure proper and quiet braking. Brake Burnishing On a straight road, maintain an average speed of 50-55 mph. Apply moderate, steady pressure to the brake pedal to gradually slow the car down to 10 mph. Repeat this technique six times, each time waiting at least 30 seconds between applications to allow temperature reduction. Climate Control The cabin air filter should be replaced every two years on some models and every three years on others, according to Tesla service information. The location of the cabin air filter will vary. It can be a stacked design like a Nissan, located inside the vehicle beneath the glove box, or it can be mounted in the trunk area under the cowl enclosure. If the Tesla is equipped with a HEPA filter, it is recommended that it be changed every three years. The A/C system on the Tesla (R134a or R1234YF) is an integral part of the climate control of the interior of the vehicle but it also performs a pivotal role in maintaining the HV battery temperature. Because of this

THE CABIN air filter is a familiar service item. Some Tesla vehicles are equipped with HEPA filters that will be located under the window cowling in the trunk area.

THE BRAKES on a Tesla should be serviced every 12,500 miles or once a year if driven in areas that use road deicers.

THE BRAKE fluid is a routine part of the maintenance on the Tesla. The manufacturer recommends that the brake fluid is checked at the caliper bleeders.

dependency on a functional A/C system, Tesla recommends that the A/C system filter and the desiccant bag be replaced at fixed intervals. Tesla recommends an A/C desiccant bag replacement every two years for Model S vehicles produced in 2012-2020 and every four years for Model X vehicles produced in 2012-2020. Wheel Alignment Performing a wheel alignment on Tesla vehicles can be very model specific and

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ROUTINE TESLA SERVICE

the need to follow the proper procedure in the information system is important. The newer Model S must be in Jack Mode, while the Model X must be in Service Mode Plus before an alignment can be performed. The Model 3 needs to have 150lb ballast bags on each of the front seats. Following the factory service proce-

TESLA RELIES heavily on the A/C system of the vehicle, not just for passenger comfort but to keep the high-voltage components (HV battery, EV motors and other electronics) at the optimal temperature. That is why Tesla wants the desiccant/filter assembly (located in the bottom of the condenser) serviced at fixed intervals.

dures carefully will ensure the alignment is done properly. Windows, Doors and Wipers If a window performs unexpectedly — touches the bright molding, fails to open or close properly, drops more than usual when the door opens, etc. — you can calibrate it to potentially fix the problem. Calibrating the Windows • Close the door with the affected window. • Sit in the driver’s seat and close the driver door. • Use the driver window switch to raise the affected window until it stalls. • Use the driver window switch to lower the affected window until it stalls. • Use the driver window switch to raise the affected window until it stalls. The Falcon Doors on the Model X may also need to be calibrated if they are opened

or closed against an obstruction or the low-voltage battery has been disconnected or failed. A warning could be displayed on the dash stating “Calibration Needed,” indicating the Falcon doors need recalibration. Calibrating the Falcon Doors • Clear the area around the back doors and eliminate any barriers (inside and out) before calibrating the doors. • During the calibration procedure, stay away from the back doors. Note: Calibration mode overrides the safety sensors, and the doors will not stop if they encounter any obstructions. • Touch and hold the CALIBRATE button on the Model X touchscreen until the back doors are fully calibrated (the doors will open and close entirely, a u t o m a t i c a l l y) a n d th e ph ra s e “CALIBRATION COMPLETE” will appear on the touchscreen.

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Note: Both back doors go through the calibration routine at the same time, which takes less than a minute. • After the calibration routine is finished, hold the CALIBRATE button for five seconds. Changing Wiper Blades Changing the wiper blades on a Tesla is like other makes that we see in our shops. The wiper blades are located below the cowl, and we need to enter “Wiper Service Mode” to gain access. Entering wiper service mode, we will use the touchscreen. • Shift into Park and turn off the wipers. • Touch Controls > Service > Wiper Service Mode > ON to move the wipers to the service position. • Lift the wiper arm a short distance from the windshield, just far enough to access the wiper blade.

Note: Wiper blades do not lock into a lifted position. Do not lift a wiper arm beyond its intended position. Place a shop towel under the wiper arm to avoid scratching or cracking the windshield if it lowers for any reason. • Turn Wiper Service Mode off on the touchscreen to return the wipers to their normal position. Tesla vehicles, unlike traditional internal combustion engine-equipped vehicles, do not require oil changes, fuel filters or spark plug replacements. Even brake pad repairs are uncommon in electric vehicles since regenerative braking transfers energy to the battery, minimizing brake wear. This is not to say that there are no chances for service businesses. If your business already services hybrids and other EVs, Tesla should not be too difficult to integrate. There are service opportunities that techs and shop owners

can take advantage of on Tesla vehicles that do not involve anything to do with the HV system.

JEFF TAYLOR is a seasoned professional at CARS Inc. in Oshawa with 40 years in the automotive industry. As a skilled technical writer and training developer, he holds licenses in both automotive and heavy-duty vehicle repair. Jeff excels in TAC support, technical training, troubleshooting, and shaping the future of automotive expertise.

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How to lift Most EVs are designed with their high-voltage batteries under the vehicle. The battery packs are large – taking up most of the undercarriage – and heavy. As a result, the OEM-recommended lifting points are often on the far edges of the vehicle frame. To safely lift an EV, you’ll need a vehicle lift with sufficient rated capacity and the capability to engage with the lifting points. Leading equipment manufacturer BendPak, Inc. has re-engineered its two-post lifts to meet the challenges of EV service. The new BendPak AP Series two-post lifts feature a patent-pending swing arm design that offers greater extension and retraction than ever to reach even the most difficult lifting points. And their low profile means you can access both in-close and far-out lifting points without damaging vehicle ground effects. For extra strength and peace of mind, BendPak strategically increased the high-strength steel used in critical

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TECH CORNER

Performance Under Pressure

Tackling drivability faults one coil at a time BY BRANDON STECKLER // Technical Editor

THE DATA DOESN’T LIE

WELCOME BACK TO ANOTHER EDITION OF “THE DATA DOESNT LIE,” A REGULAR FEATURE, WHERE I POSE A PUZZLING CASE STUDY.

A GOOD FRIEND of mine, Michael, was recently faced with a 2007 Ford Edge experiencing a misfire under certain driving conditions. After some preliminary data evaluation, he hypothesized that the drivability symptom stemmed from a fault in the vehicle’s ignition system. By systematically placing the vehicle’s engine under sustained load, the misfire

Coils # 1, # 3, # 5

fault would present itself readily and always seemed to occur on cylinder No. 2. Considering the ignition system’s configuration, it was not prudent to swap the coils from cylinder to cylinder (a common technique to see if the misfire fault moves along with the coil). The coils of bank No. 1 reside under the intake manifold (Figure 1).

Intake manifold

FIGURE 1 The location of the ignition coils made it unwise to commit to a coil swap as a diagnostic step.

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With the idea of an ignition system fault in mind, Michael monitored the suspect coil’s control circuit with a digital storage oscilloscope (DSO), along with a non-suspect coil for comparison (Figure 2). After capturing the data during the misfire, the only anomaly Michael noticed was a difference in the coil-oscillation section of the ignition event. It seems (whether the misfire was present or not) that the coil oscillations are missing from the suspect coil’s ignition event. Two questions come to mind: • What do the missing coil oscillations mean? • Is it the cause of the misfire? Preliminary Data This is where Michael reached out to me to evaluate the ignition events and see if I could offer some insight. Again, a coil swap is just what the doctor ordered but considering the coils reside beneath the intake manifold, it is not a gamble worth taking at this point. Let’s see what the data has to offer us (Figure 3). The ignition event occurs because of a transfer of energy. But this energy is derived from magnetism. FEBRUARY 2024

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FIGURE 2 Viewing a wiring diagram (like this one from Alldata) should always be part of the diagnostic process as it provides insight on testing locations.

A magnetic field is created when electrical current flows through the primary windings of the ignition coil. However, the magnetic field that develops over time (what we refer to as “dwell”) must dissipate instantaneously when the electrical current stops flowing through

the primary windings of the ignition coil. When that occurs, and through the function of the step-up transformer (the ignition coil, itself ) a spark should discharge. This spark contains a finite amount of energy. A properly designed and properly functioning ignition system

FIGURE 3 A comparison of good vs. suspect coil ignition events reveals a variation in the coil oscillation section between the two captures.

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FIGURE 4 The coil oscillations represent the amount of reserve energy the coil exhibits.

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should produce a spark not only capable of igniting the air/fuel (A/F) mixture under all operating conditions; there should be some reserve energy remaining. This reserve energy will be seen dissipating as coil oscillations, ringing out over time (Figure 4). The Data Doesn’t Lie With all the information in front of us, and the desired information not yet obtained, we are faced with deciding how to proceed. Here are some bullet points of what we know to be factual, and I will ask all of you, diligent readers, for your input: • The No. 2 cylinder misfires under load • Preliminary data points to an ignition system fault • Comparative ignition captures show a variation in the coil oscillations between cylinders • The coils are housed under the intake manifold Given this information, what would you do next? • Replace all six ignition coils

• Replace the No. 2 ignition coil only • Commit to intake removal and swapping coils for diagnostic purposes • Obtain a common amperage waveform of all coils

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Solved: 2013 Honda Crosstour, “check gas cap” message

(December 2023, Motor Age)

BY BRANDON STECKLER // Technical Editor What would you recommend doing next, given the data bullet points in last month’s challenge? Given this information, what would you do next? 1 | Smoke test the EVAP system 2 | Replace the fuel cap because it’s inexpensive 3 | Replace PCM 4 | Monitor FTP, vent solenoid, and purge valve with a lab scope during failure For those of you who chose answer No. 4, congratulations! According to the data, smoke testing EVAP system would not yield any leak. The FTP sensor signal remained stable under natural vacuum testing conditions. These conditions are a lot more stringent than a smoke test, meaning, if the natural-vacuum test passes, the EVAP system will most likely pass a smoke test. For this same reason, replacing a fuel cap due to low cost would still be foolish because a leak is not present. Although replacing a PCM may be the correct step (assuming there was a logic error), doing so is premature because there are still unanswered questions. Monitoring the FTP, vent solenoid, and

FIGURE 5 The purge valve, located in the engine compartment, would fail to seal properly when the engine compartment was hot. It was the root cause of the fault and required replacement.

purge valve simultaneously with a lab scope will not only verify the functionality of the components working as a system but will also demonstrate the failure when it occurs. The purge solenoid was the root cause of the fault (Figure 5). At times, it would fail to seal during monitor criteria conditions. A DTC never set because this component would never fail during

the natural-vacuum leak detection that occurred during key-off testing conditions. This fault would only occur on the road (when the engine compartment was hot).

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DC-DC CONVERTERS

DC-DC Converters: THE SOLID-STATE ALTERNATOR Why did the first Chevy Volt have two? STORY AND IMAGES BY CRAIG VAN BATENBURG

WHEN MODERN HYBRIDS came to market in 1998 (in Japan) the alternator could not be used due to “idle stop,” so a replacement was needed. Enter the DC-DC converter. (Note: we will also use the word

044-051_EV Feature.indd 44

“converter” to make this more readable.) The high voltage battery pack provides the power for the DC-DC converter, which in turn powers the 12-volt system when in “READY” mode. The DC-DC converter

powers the head and tail lights, wipers, radio, windows, computers, 12-volt pumps and so on, but not the 12-volt battery. The DC-DC converter keeps the 12-volt battery charged so it can be used when the vehi-

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Glossary of terms • MOSFET: Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor • IGBT: Insulated Gate Bi-polar Transistor • SiC MOSFET: Silicon Carbide Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor • EMV: an ACDC vehicle term that includes all Vehicles with High Voltage Drive Systems • HV: High Voltage • M/Y: Model Year • HEV: Hybrid Electric Vehicle • PHEV: Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle • EV: Electric Vehicle

THESE FOUR MOSFET change current from DC to AC.

HONDA USED an air-cooled DC-DC converter for too long.

THIS IS a Mutual Induction Coil. It helps to keep you safe. FORD USED liquid cooling for their DC-DC converter from the start.

cle is off, in accessory, or in “Power On” mode as defined by the National Institute of Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). For this article we will use 12-volts to describe the low voltage system for easier

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DC-DC CONVERTERS

reading. Note: Tesla has recently gone to a 16-volt Li-ion battery. Cooling it Down Once the DC-DC converter was chosen to replace the alternator, other challenges arose. Everything has an upside and a downside. One of the downsides is the transistors found inside a DC-DC converter get hot. That is waste heat and never a desirable trait. Both liquid and air cooling were used in the beginning but liquid coolant won out, because it was more reliable. Honda used air cooling on all their IMA designs. If the 12-volt battery was not well maintained, or was left in the car after its useful life was over, the DC-DC converter would overheat. Why? It was continually putting out more amps than it was designed to due to the defective 12volt battery. That extra work created more heat and that is a problem for any DC-DC converter. The root cause was a failure to test and replace the small battery. The Honda Insight went on sale in M/Y 2000 and the air conditioning system was an option. That meant that on a very hot day, if A/C was not installed, the DC-DC converter would not get the cooling it needed. The design of many air-cooled hybrid components relies on the driver to turn on the air conditioner to cool themselves down and that in turn also cooled

the power electronics and the HV battery. The air that cools many high voltage parts is drawn from the cabin. The cabin air should be about 70 degrees Fahrenheit so that the DC-DC converter has cool air being driven over it by a cooling fan(s). The cooling fins on the DC-DC converter would then remove the heat from the transistors. As long as the entire system works as designed, the DC-DC converter could have a very long life as it is solid state. It has no bearings, belt or brushes to wear out, so it is possible for the solid-state device to last 1,000,000 miles. There is no preventive maintenance on the DC-DC converter other than the cooling system. Almost all DC-DC converters are now liquid cooled. What Is Inside If you want to know more, take the bottom steel cover off a 2004-2009 Toyota Prius Inverter. Under the cover you will find a DC-DC converter and the inverter for the 3-phase high voltage air conditioning compressor. Follow the two large diameter cables entering at one corner. They are 200-volt DC orange and black cables. These power the MOSFETs (metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistors). These four transistors are connected to 200-volt DC power supplied by the high voltage battery pack. What you need

to know is the high voltage DC must be changed to a high frequency AC. These four transistors switch the polarity of the DC high voltage cables that connect inside the DC-DC converter. Do not try the next example, just think of it this way: Picture a scope connected to the high voltage battery and you have set the zero line at the middle of the scope with 250 volts above and below the center line. The time base is in one second intervals. Once you have the cables connected to the HV battery you will see a flat line at about 200-volts above the center zero line. Now disconnect the cables. What do you see now on your scope? The line is flat and at zero. Reconnect the cables in reverse order. Positive lead to the negative HV battery cable and vice versa. Now what do you see on the scope? Two-hundred-volts below the line or a negative 200-volts. OK, now do that hundreds of times per second. Remember we are only looking at voltage. When you add a current-clamp you will see a ragged looking AC sign wave. In reality a DC-DC converter starts with DC voltage and current from a high voltage battery, and converts that to a polarity switched DC that produces AC amperage. So, it is both DC and AC at the same time — DC voltage and AC current. From there the AC is lowered in voltage by the Mutual Induction Coil, then AC travels through a THIS IS a rectifier bridge from an alternator.

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DC-DC CONVERTERS

series of diodes, right out of an alternator in this case, that rectifies (allows the AC current to only go in one direction) and that action changes the AC to DC. There is one more device, an AC filter, that looks like a flat coil surrounded by a powerful magnet. It is there to make sure the DC power is as pure as possible. Once you see the power flow, a DC–DC converter will be simple to understand and diagnose. The non-computer-controlled induction coil was used as a safe way to achieve the goal of providing 14volts and hundreds of amps using the high voltage system. The main difference is that “high voltage single phase AC” is manufactured in a DC-DC converter as opposed to three-phase AC that is created in a traditional 12-volt alternator with a rotating magnetic field. Failures and Testing The good news is the training you have had on the conventional 12-volt battery, starter and alternator will come in handy as the testing and equipment you are familiar with can be used. The normal symptom is “my 12-volt battery goes dead.” If the DC-DC converter fails, the EMV can only drive as far as the 12-volt battery has power available, just like in a conventional car. The same situation as an alternator failure, the 12-volt battery will soon run out of power and the car will stall and will not restart. Once you have an accurate description from the driver of the car at the time it failed, complete a full history of the car. Check the VIN against any recalls for service updates that may fix the problem. Software updates can fix a ”bad converter” as owners of 2006 Civic HEVs found out after the 12-volt battery went dead. Remember, even though the DC-DC converter is connected to the HV battery pack, a computer signal is required to request it to “turn on,” usually through a CAN bus. The DC-DC converter will supply the required volts and amps for the whole 12-volt system when the “READY”

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light is on — if the system is working as designed. If the “turn on” DC-DC converter signal does not get there, the converter will not work. A simple software issue can render it useless. Some EMVs use this strategy: if the HV battery is having a problem, such as capacity loss, out of balance, low SOC on some cells, etc., the converter will be commanded off until the HV battery issue is fixed. Do not replace a DC-DC converter until you have confirmed the HV battery is OK and the software is up to date. Can you use an EMV to jump-start a conventional vehicle? No, unless you know the systems really well in both vehicles, as there are exceptions. The Chevy Volt The first year of production for the Volt was M/Y 2011. ACDC (my business) bought one right away in New York State as Massachusetts was not on the list. One thing seemed odd as we studied, scanned, scoped and looked over this plug-in. A traditional DC-DC converter was mounted in the trunk floor. It was air cooled, a step backwards in our opinion. Up front was one more. It incorporated the on-board charger and was liquid cooled. So why two? GM had installed two DC-DC converters a few years earlier on their two-mode hybrids, but that made sense. One was 12-volts and the other was 36-volts for their electric power steering. The new Volt had two 12-volt DC-DC converters. Why? The rear one is used when driving and you are in the car. We call that a “dumb” converter. If this converter continues to supply current and a small 12-volt fire starts, once the driver smells something burning, it is “stop the car” and get out. This happens on ICE (internal combustion engine) powered cars and trucks as they get older and backyard untrained hackers

THIS AC filter removes any stray AC before DC is sent to the fuse box.

THIS DIAGRAM was designed in house at ACDC for our new Tech Book.

have their fun. Usually no one dies and it makes a great YouTube video. When your plug-in is charging in your attached garage, it isn’t so funny. The front converter is used when the Chevy Volt is plugged-in. It is a smart DC-DC converter. Not genius level, but smart. This converter knows how many amps it is sending and what is normal at that time. If it senses too much current, it stops supplying current to the car and stops charging. While

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DC-DC CONVERTERS

FOR SELF-STUDY, examine the DCDC converter used in the 2004-2009 Toyota Prius.

200-Volts DC From HV Pack 100 - 200 Amps 13.5V - 14.5V Output Four IGBT’s

Single Phase AC 200-Volts

Low Voltage AC Filter

14-Volts DC Bridge Rectifier the plug-in is charging, or just plugged in, the 12-volt system is working in the background keeping the support systems functioning. In the unlikely event that a 12-volt component is asking for more current than it was designed for, game over. Both the low and high voltage systems are shut down. This prevents overheating any 12-volt part of the “powered up” system and it prevents 12-volt fires. Summary DC-DC converters need a healthy HV battery to power them and a properly functioning 12-volt battery too. Use all the best safety precautions when working on these high voltage components. Have a plan that makes sure you cover all the bases. Do not make anything up. Get the service infor-

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Chassis Ground

mation and ask questions if you do not know the system. Master your scope and current probe so you can make sure your repair is done exceptionally well and your diagnosis is complete. Electric vehicles are our future. You may feel they are not needed, or this is some huge mistake. I have had many skeptical technicians in our classes and I address their concerns about the future as best I can. There have been more the last few years than ever before. What your personal views are will not change the numbers of EVs that will be sold in the future by much more than a fraction of a percent. The momentum of going electric cannot be stopped now. I have had the privilege of being a part of this 25-year transition away from burning fossil fuels to powering my cars and motorcycles with electricity. I am fortunate to live where the grid gets cleaner every year. Being ready for the vehicles that will come into your bays will change

18-Volts AC

Mutual Inductance Coil

your daily life as a technician. No more fumes, no more burned flesh on a hot exhaust system, no oil changes or gasoline dripping down your arm as you replace a fuel line. Welcome to the new generation of powertrains. It will not be as bad as you may imagine. You might grow to like these quiet cars.

CRAIG VAN BATENBURG is the CEO of ACDC, a hybrid and plug-in training company based in Worcester, Mass. ACDC has been offering high voltage classes since 2000, when the Honda Insight came to the USA. When EVs were introduced in 2011, ACDC added them to their classes. Reach Craig via email at Craig@ fixhybrid.com or call him at (508) 826-4546. Find ACDC at www.FIXHYBRID.com.

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