PEOPLE / HOMES / FASHION / LIFESTYLES
EDITOR’S LETTER
From Prairie to Pacific
This issue of Tweed – coastal living – was a particularly fun one for a prairie-born gal.
For most of my life, I lived in the flat expanse of Winnipeg country, nestled among flat farm fields and the endless stretching sky.
But, I always dreamed of different pastures. In 2020, I made the decision to pack up and leave, finally crossing off a bucket list item I had written when I was 15: live by the ocean.
Writing this month’s feature story, Embracing Ocean Living in Oak Bay, gave me a chance to reflect on how special it is living blocks from Gonzales Beach. I echo resident Andrew Jackson’s sentiment, who I interviewed in the article: I still pinch myself to think of how lucky I am to live here.
The sea has provided both a place of respite and invigoration. During the pandemic, the world felt oddly normal and calm during long beach walks. And as I emerged from more difficult moments, a foray into ocean cold plunging gave me the nervous system reboot I needed – a practice I continue to this day. (If you think I’m crazy, you should see my roommate,
who did it barefoot on a snowy day in January!)
When reading this issue from our team, I hope it will spur you, too, to think about what coastal living means to you, inspire you to try something new and to connect with the community in a new way.
And now that summer’s here, I hope you get to soak up the beach as much as I plan to.
Sam Duerksen Editor
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Photo by Justin Lee
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Elegance
The historic waterfront estate has starred in Hollywood movies and hosted royalty
By Tess van Straaten |
Photos by Lia Crowe
at Riffington Manor
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Aside from the stunning waterfront views, it’s the main house—a Tudor revival mansion— that’s the star attraction.
❞
There’s coastal living, and then there’s coastal living, but very few people have their own tranquil, private beach— especially one that’s just a few minutes from downtown Victoria. And you’d be hard-pressed to find one more perfect than the two-sided beach at Riffington Manor in Oak Bay’s upscale Uplands.
“It’s the perfect beach for grandchildren,” the homeowner tells me as we stroll along the shoreline of the historic waterfront estate on a sun-drenched late spring day. “It’s sloped, sandy, sheltered, and shallow.”
One side of the beach even once had its own sea pool and bathhouse, which was later turned into a studio cottage. There’s also a private dock past the swimming beach, where the homeowner used to moor his boat, and a glass-encased gazebo perched on the rocky outcrop between the two beaches.
“It’s a lovely, breezy little nook built into the rocks,” he says. “The kids loved hanging out here, and my son-in-law used to have poker parties here.”
But aside from the stunning waterfront views, it’s the main house—a Tudor revival mansion—that’s the star attraction. Completed in 1913 for businessman Andrew Wright, one of the main investors in the development of the Uplands, the castle-like home has starred in Hollywood movies and even hosted royalty, including Queen Elizabeth II’s sister, Princess Margaret.
Designed by architect Philip Jullien, Riffington Manor’s classic exterior is made from the same stone as British Columbia’s iconic Parliament Buildings. Quarried on Haddington Island, a small volcanic island just south of Port McNeill in the Broughton Strait, the grey andesite (which has a mineral composition between granite and basalt) has stood the test of time.
Before you even catch your first glimpse of the imposing house, that volcanic stone is the first thing that greets visitors as they turn into the tree-covered, arced driveway off Beach Drive. After the elegant gates, engraved with the manor’s name, a stately stone porte-cochère entices guests inside.
The towering, two-story, octagonal entrance hall has beautifully-carved stone balconies and an ornate ‘rose window’ stained-glass skylight—common in Gothic architecture—at its dome, which used to be covered in gold leaf and is now a silvery aluminum leaf.
But it’s not all serious. Some funny little quirks have also been built into the sophisticated design.
“One that’s fun is if you look up at the top (of the entryway), you can see all the men pictured in the stained glass dome, and they’re all different,” the homeowner says with a smile. “And one guy has his tongue sticking out.”
Throughout the home, there are intricately carved mouldings and mantles, fancy woodwork, and special details everywhere you look. The attention to detail is something rarely seen in the century-plus since the manor was built, and symmetry is everything.
“It’s all about balance,” explains the homeowner’s assistant as she ushers me toward the waterfront dining room, just off the entry hall. “A single door is all you could put here off the hall, but inside the dining room, it’s a double door, and it’s so well done that people try to open that door because they don’t realize it’s a faux door. It’s all about balance and about symmetry.”
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The expansive dining room, designed for entertaining and anchored by an elaborate French chandelier, has a stunning view of the beach and the Salish Sea with 10 Mile Point in the distance. On the opposite wall is a massive, commissioned Robert Bateman painting.
“It’s the largest one he ever painted, and it’s the view from the window, so either way, you’re getting the same view,” the assistant says with a laugh.
There’s another smaller, sunny, yellow family eating area just off the dining room, also with spectacular views, and just beside the kitchen, which was the only room the homeowner renovated after he purchased the property in 1985.
“The kitchen seems quite antiquated now, but in 1985 it was cutting edge,” the homeowner tells me. He adds that his late wife helped restore period fixtures throughout the house, removing the “gaudy ones from the 80s.”
Upstairs, four large bedrooms, each with a bathroom and some with spacious sitting areas, occupy the entire second floor. An enclosed sun porch between two of the waterfront bedrooms is a favourite spot. It has radiant floors and a large window that opens up.
“In the summertime, we often come up here to eat and open it up,” the homeowner says.
The attic level hosts two additional bedrooms,
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originally servants’ quarters, and a large exercise and games room that was used for dances when the historic home housed the U.S. Consul from 1928 to 1942.
There’s also a two-bedroom carriage house on the grounds, with three car bays, overlooking bustling fruit and vegetable gardens that are harvested by the chef. But it’s the established gardens—flowering Magnolia trees, Camellias, colour-drenched rhododendrons, climbing Wisteria and flowering bushes— that you smell as soon as you step outside. Part of the grounds are wooded, with towering Douglas firs and western red cedars that make you feel like you’re in the forest.
It’s a special spot, and it’s easy to see why Hollywood came calling. The property has starred in numerous Hallmark productions, including Once Upon a Prince, Christmas Bells Are Ringing and the Gourmet Detective series, as well as 2022’s American Dreamer movie starring Hollywood heavyweights Peter Dinklage and Shirley MacLaine.
The homeowner rented the estate to production companies for more than 20 years, donating all the proceeds to charity in memory of his beloved wife. This not-so-little slice of paradise is where they raised their four children, and happy memories are everywhere, floating along with the sea breeze.
TEA with Kari McLay
Where were you born, and where did you grow up?
By
I was born in Victoria and raised by a single mother – a bohemian free spirit who raised my younger brother and me in an off-beat, alternative and never dull way. We moved constantly around the city and travelled spontaneously to exotic places, including communes and rock festivals. We were exposed to art, culture and eccentric people from all walks of life. My childhood was colourful and somewhat chaotic. I am a product of this environment, and although a bit scarred, I am also extremely grateful.
How long have you lived in Oak Bay?
For two years. I chose this Beach Drive apartment because of its design and light – a classic mid-century modern building that feels open, airy and comfortable.
What has shaped your career?
I have a long career on the front line as a medical social worker at Royal Jubilee and Victoria General hospitals, and as a parent educator and family therapist with the Ministry of Children and Family Development. But I have always loved fashion and art culture. I minored in art history, and my first career was in the beauty industry, which helped me understand personal care, style and the dynamic world of business. Now, I am a social worker, fundraiser and social entrepreneur. I opened what started as a lifestyle boutique, Tulipe Noire, not just to be creative and have fun, but to support nonprofit organizations in the city – that’s been my purpose from the start. At Tulipe Noire, I purchase merchandise and oversee administration and community networking. My loyal staff (who have worked for me since I opened 20 years ago) take care of my customers. This leaves me time to work for the Victoria Native Friendship Centre (VNFC) as director of community engagement and fund development, and focus my Tulipe Noire work on supporting charities close to my heart.
CLAIM TO FAME IN OAK BAY Owner of clothing store
Tulipe Noire on Oak Bay Avenue, and staff member at Victoria Native Friendship Centre
Samantha Duerksen
Photo by Lia Crowe
You opened Tulipe Noire in 2005. But, it’s much more than a clothing store to you – you describe it as a social enterprise. How do you use your store as a platform for causes that you are passionate about?
Since I opened, I’ve fundraised for the arts and human services. Now, in tandem with my role at VNFC, I educate Tulipe Noire’s staff and customers about supporting the urban Indigenous community. That ties into allyship and educating the corporate community’s responsibility to meet the Call to Action 92. Through my store, I sponsor, event plan, and fundraise for causes I care deeply about. Tulipe Noire generates revenue to make this possible, with the majority of profits directed toward multiple charities. Having a business also allows me to make connections with the community and the corporate world, host events, and collaborate on fundraising initiatives.
What are some projects that you are currently passionate about?
I oversee VNFC’s Cowichan sweater project, Knit, which raises awareness on the importance of reclaiming Indigenous art, fair wages and preserving the heritage of the iconic Cowichan sweater. Through this social enterprise, we support knitters and their traditional craft by paying them a fair wage for the sweaters that they create – the sweaters take approximately 30-40 hours! We sell them online and at Makers, including the Victoria location at Government St. I am also running a VNFC fundraising campaign, Allies in Reconciliation: Sharing the Path Forward, to support food security, housing and youth while broadening our base of monthly donors. Currently, VNFC offers 70+ programs supporting urban Indigenous peoples across Greater Victoria. The campaign is a call to action to essentially anyone in the community, but as a business owner, I also build strong connections in the small business and corporate community.
What is your ‘why’ that drives you every day?
I’m driven by the pursuit of heart-centred, tangible work that has meaning, purpose and makes a difference in people’s lives.
What brings you joy?
I love attending arts performances, travelling, reading and spending time with my husband and daughter. I also love networking and getting to know new people. If I can be supportive or collaborate on a project and form a meaningful friendship, then I am truly fulfilled.
Embracing ocean lifestyle
in Oak Bay
Locals reflect on the small wonders of coastal life and how they connect with the sea
By Samantha Duerksen
Photos by Lia Crowe, Don Denton
Coming from the Prairies, I can say there is something fully visceral about being by the ocean. It not only offers a dazzling expanse to look out at, dappled with light beams and sea creatures breaching; there’s the steady crash of waves that calms a riddled mind, the scent – and taste – of salt and seaweed, the shocking cold that snaps one into presence.
Living mere blocks away from Gonzales Beach, I question if, between the apps and screen time, the downtown events or up-Island trips, I spend enough time embracing the experience so close at hand.
That got me thinking – what are ways to embrace ocean living? Here are some ways to connect with the sea, peppered with stories from locals on how they make the most of seaside living – whether that be activities on the water, finding peaceful spots, or keeping our shared sanctuary clean, one bucket at a time.
PHOTO BY LIA CROWE, COURTESY OF OAK BAY BEACH HOTEL.
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PADDLEBOARDING: A WAY TO CONNECT WITH MARINE LIFE
For Linda Coggins, who only moved to Greater Victoria seven years ago, paddleboarding was one of the first ways she truly connected with the ocean, she explained in a past interview.
“It’s been a very opening experience for me,” she said. “I’d only connected with the ocean on vacation before, but it wasn’t very meaningful. This made it accessible. You think about the relationship between the water and all the life around here.”
Coggins’ first paddle was with Mer Tales Ocean Journeys. Owned by marine biologist Gina, it offers several summer experiences that usually depart from Gonzales Bay.
Group paddles – with costs beginning at $45, or $65 including board/equipment – include the meditative Women on the Water (Wednesdays at 7 a.m.) and Moon Ceremony, plus more education-based forays like the Kelp Float, Bioluminescence and Marine Ecological tours, where Gina’s enlightened expertise shines.
Annette Ruitenbeek, a past paddler with Mer Tales, said the groups share “really meaningful experiences” on the water. Once, she was captivated when a group of whales came under her paddleboard.
Powerful experiences like that prompt her to reflect on the wonder of the sea and her relationship to it.
“It made me think, do I feel vulnerable on the ocean, or strong? Do I feel one with the ocean, or do I feel alien? When I catch myself asking questions like that, I realize it’s why having a community is so great.”
BY
FINDING TRANQUILITY AT THE OAK BAY BEACH HOTEL
One can be active on the ocean, or one can find tranquility beside it.
Perhaps no better place to find a peaceful haven is Oak Bay Beach Hotel’s spa with breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. It’s a hot spot for visitors and locals alike thanks to a heated outdoor mineral pool, hot tubs, outdoor fireplaces and lounge chairs, all nestled among purple heather at water’s edge with Mount Baker in the distance.
In June, the experience expands with two new cold plunge pools, offering a comprehensive hydrotherapy circuit that improves circulation, muscle relaxation, and detoxification.
Additionally, a new custom-built cedar Stargazing Sauna by WildWood Saunas accommodates up to 10 guests. It offers sweeping 180-degree views of the sea – and the sky, thanks to a magical glass ceiling.
“The space is spectacular,” said Kerry Hittinger, the hotel’s marketing specialist. “During the day, it’s filled with natural light and panoramic views of the Pacific. At night, it transforms into something truly magical, where you can lie back and observe a sky full of stars. It’s both grounding and awe-inspiring.”
Access to the sauna is available to registered hotel guests, spa clients and pool pass guests, depending on daily capacity.
Hittinger said it’s all part of the hotel’s desire to give visitors what they crave: a reprieve in nature that is also tied to the unique landscape of Oak Bay.
“Guests are increasingly seeking travel experiences that support rest, recovery and reconnection with themselves and with nature,” she said.
PHOTO
LIA CROWE, COURTESY OF OAK BAY BEACH HOTEL.
RESIDENTS RALLY FOR CONSERVATION
When Oak Bay resident Andrew Jackson moved to the area from Ontario, he said he pinched himself over how “lucky” he was that he got to live in such a beautiful area. Gonzales Beach has become a daily anchoring space of rejuvenation, where he paddles five or six days a week in the summer and where his daily dog walks bring neighbourhood connections. All of the meaning and beauty the beach offers motivates him to protect it.
“We enjoy and get so much from the powerful medicine that nature is. I’m certainly motivated to be good to Mother Nature, because she’ll be good to you, too,” he said.
After several derelict boats littering the beach in the past two years rallied neighbours together in clean-up efforts, Jackson said he realized how much stewardship locals feel over its waters and how rewarding it is to be part of that.
“The people really care for the beach and feel obliged to look after it as much as possible,” he said. “Everyone who uses the beach, from little talks to people in their last days, or all the dogs, to have a polluted environment, it just
takes it away ... I tip my hat to them because they got things done.”
Jackson said he is inspired to do his own clean-up efforts, thanks to a woman he sees who “walks around with a red bucket and fills it with little bits of plastic.”
She’s part of a community of neighbours that he describes as “resourceful, eclectic, interesting and amazing.”
The Ontario native says he still pinches himself over living by Gonzales Beach, and it’s a sentiment that resonates with a lot of locals.
There are so many ways to appreciate and connect with the sea (like sailing lessons, kayaking, or just finding your favourite view), and as summer approaches, it can be worth exploring what coastal living means to you and to make the most of it. Some, like Jackson, seem to have really learned the art of that.
“The beach is an essential part of our lives, almost,” he said. “It’s kind of an anchoring point for the community. We all have that common bond.”
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GARTH HOMER FOUNDATION
What we do
Established in 1998, the Garth Homer Foundation has provided funding for over 25 years in support of its vision for a society where people with diverse abilities discover freedom of choice and can unleash their full potential.
The Foundation’s purpose is primarily, and to the greatest extent possible, to support the Garth Homer Society to support adults with developmental disabilities to make a life, a home, and a place in the world. We believe in the model – that by providing essential funding and resources to develop independent living skills, and by surrounding these with assistive technology and transportation– that more people can fully benefit.
In partnership with Richardson Wealth and CanadaHelps, we create Endowments, Matching Grants, Legacies, Tributes and gifts In Memorium as well as Corporate programs to accelerate transformation for our Region, led by the Garth Homer Society.
How we help
In March 2023, the Foundation announced a transformative $34 million legacy gift from Kathleen (Kay) Sheret, a longtime supporter and friend of Garth Homer. This donation is one of the largest ever given to support people with cognitive disabilities in Canada and is expected to significantly enhance community-based care for generations to come.
GARTH HOMER FOUNDATION
301 - 1321 Blanshard Street Victoria, B.C. V8W 0B6
Contact Catherine Lord, Chair
Bruce Homer, Vice-Chair info@garthhomerfoundation.org 778-410-5174
Visit us online garthhomerfoundation.org garthhomersociety.org
Upon receiving this generous gift, the Foundation updated its investment policy and generated $1.4M initially for the Society, with over 36% going towards matching grants to accelerate programming. A review of the Society’s five-year strategic plan inspired the Foundation to broaden this commitment over the next five years for more services to contribute to the growth and skill development of the people served. This includes an expanded scope of services, a greater array of choices, and expanded access to technology, transportation, and facility resources.
Ways to give
Your support can be directed to Garth Homer Society programs or initiatives such as the Belonging Project for connected and inclusive housing for occupancy in 2027 – the 50th anniversary of the Garth Homer Centre!
www.garthhomerfoundation.org/donate
Learn about more ways to give Canada Helps www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/the-garth-homer-foundation
Victoria Foundation
Gifts from Donor Advised Funds are gratefully received and matched
Butchart Gardens
Gifts from the beautiful coin fountains are matched by the Foundation
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Ripple effect
Inspiring community sparks creative spirit
Barbara Adams, a past Oak Bay Arts Laureate, brings the sea to life through silver
By Sean McIntyre | Photos by Lia Crowe
Reticulation is sometimes called the black art of metalworking.
A silversmith creates a fine ripple-like pattern, transforming a hunk of cold, raw metal into an alluring object of beauty. Unique shapes and patterns emerge as the artisan carefully applies heat to a metal alloy – usually a combination of silver and copper – taking into account the metals’ different melting points.
It’s a technique Oak Bay jewelry designer Barbara Adams learned during her courses with master silversmith Judith Hirczy, and the wavy lines and shifting textures have come to define much of the silver work she produces under Barba Designs. It’s a fitting form for someone who draws much inspiration from her oceanside community.
“I love the sea, and my creations are influenced by our surroundings and the joys of living near it,” Barbara says.
These influences are readily noticed in Barbara’s Orca Series, which includes sea flower rings and earrings as well as her Star Light pebble earrings, bracelets and clasps. Each finely crafted piece embodies the striking contrast between the intense heat of the crafting process and the creation of such intricate pieces.
The story of Barba Designs predates that workshop by at least a few decades.
During undergrad, Barbara first came up with the name. With a knack for making her own clothing and accessories, she easily sold to others what she didn’t keep for herself. In spite of the promising start, Barbara says life got in the way after graduation; a career as an elementary and middle school teacher, as well as the responsibilities of raising a family, took precedence over any thought of working full time as an artist.
A fortuitous meeting while completing an education degree at the University of British Columbia sparked Barbara’s creativity and helped it flourish throughout
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her career. She thanks the man in charge of arts education for that. Sam Black, an accomplished B.C. artist, urged Barbara to infuse classes with her passion for the arts.
“I loved his class, and he encouraged me to use art throughout my lessons,” she says. “That was the beginning.”
Barbara quickly grew concerned by how little knowledge and training in the arts new teachers received, and the fact that art classes were optional for B.C. students after middle school gave her the worry that students were missing out.
“This annoyed me, but that became the impetus for the Artist in the School Program,” she says.
What followed was a kind of quest to bring art front and centre in the classroom. In the late 1990s, she launched Artist in the School at Monterey Elementary and Monterey Middle School, which continued through 2009.
The community was very supportive, but Barbara recalls some pushback from the teachers’ union. They believed that funding ought to be provided by the provincial government, a well-intentioned proposition Barbara believes would have relegated the program to the bottom of a to-do list.
Instead, the self-funded program, which Barbara coordinated until 2009, relied on donations and proceeds from an annual art gala.
“It worked out well and much of the art is still evident in and around the school,” she says.
Her passion for bringing art into schools naturally developed into advocating for greater support for the arts throughout the Oak Bay community.
She held several board positions, including volunteer board member of the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria (AGGV) from 1994-1999. In December 2013, Mayor Nils Jensen and Oak Bay councillors appointed her as Oak Bay Arts Laureate, a title she held until 2021.
“My objective was to raise the profile of the arts in Oak Bay,” she says. “It is my vision to have 25 permanent art installations throughout Oak Bay, incorporate culture as a partner in the Parks and Recreation Department, and revitalize Oak Bay’s Public Art Policy.
“I consider myself an advocate for the arts, and I devote my time, energy and expertise to their importance in the development of creative problem solving, and well-being.”
Barbara’s own artistic creations have been featured at The Avenue Gallery since 2011. She has since built a loyal following with jewelry that adds a unique wow factor to any outfit, according to gallery manager Kathleen Prince.
“Her bold statement pieces consistently captivate our clients, with many seeking out her work specifically,” Kathleen says. “Barbara has made a lasting contribution to the local arts community, and we are thrilled to support her continued success.”
Oddly enough, small pieces like jewelry were never something that really suited or interested Barbara in earlier years, she says.
That all changed when she was introduced to black Tahitian pearls while visiting London and Versailles. While the pearls captivated her, they were well beyond her budget. So, she found some turquoise in a jewelry shop that had heaps of interesting and unusual materials gathered from around the globe.
“It suddenly struck me,” she says. “I bought the turquoise pieces, created a necklace, and that was the start. I went to markets, found bead shops and started collecting. The name Barba Designs was put to use again, and that was 25 years ago.”
For Barbara, the intent is not to create a big business. “It has become my art form and hobby,” she says. “I make every piece and sell most of them.”
In her travels, Barbara collects unique items, pearls and semi-precious stones. She attends bead shows whenever possible as she deems it crucial to see and feel the materials she considers for her work.
“Forming Barba Design has allowed me to bring my passion for the arts and love of fashion into one, creating sensual and evocative pieces,” she says. “Selling to clients in Victoria, Vancouver, and now beyond, my mission still holds true – unique designs to create personal style.”
CERAMIC TILE & NATURAL STONE
Oak
Bay’s forgotten architectural
crown jewel
The opulent Crystal Palace exhibition hall
Crystal Palace pictured in 1891, during its inaugural year. (Courtesy B.C. Archives)
By Ivan Watson
On a bright and sunny early autumn day in October 1901, the carriage of The Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York—The British Empire’s future King George V and Queen Mary—arrived at Oak Bay’s Willows Fairgrounds to the roar of an approving crowd. The reason for the exceptionally large cheer was that it was the first royal visit to B.C.’s capital city in nearly 20 years.
As crowds gathered, a large brass band enthusiastically performed patriotic anthems. The entire capital city was “adorned with decorations” of “artistic genius” and “beauty and splendor” for the royal visit, the British Colonist newspaper described. From the carriage in front of the great Crystal Palace exhibition hall, the Duke tipped his cap to the thousands of cheering spectators, and two young girls, wearing their finest white dresses, strewed flowers on the crimson-carpeted pathway leading to the gallery platform. Horse guards assembled on either side of the building’s grand facade, and the procession that day included the governor general of the Dominion of Canada, the prime minister, B.C.’s lieutenant governor, the mayor of Victoria, as well as various local dignitaries.
The entire spectacle lasted less than an hour, yet the royal visit was the pinnacle in the short-lived history of Oak Bay’s forgotten architectural crown jewel—the opulent B.C. Agricultural Association Exhibition Building—better known as “Crystal Palace.”
Modelled after the world-renowned Crystal Palace built
for the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, Oak Bay’s version featured a striking centrepiece inspired by the original’s famous glass fountain, garlanded by colourful flowers and lush ferns, installed prominently in its central rotunda.
The Crystal Palace’s construction represented the growing confidence and imperial ambitions of the young provincial capital. By 1890, Victoria’s population was 17,000 residents. Victoria’s Agricultural and Historical Society had held an annual exhibition since 1862 in various parts of the city, including Beacon Hill Park. Seeking a more permanent home, the city purchased six acres of land by the existing Willows Racetrack (near today’s Eastdowne Road and Haultain Street) and, by public vote, budgeted $45,000 for a new exhibition hall.
Designed by architect Cornelius J. Soule, the entire structure was built in a breathless 90 days to host the 1891 Provincial Agricultural Exhibition. Miraculously, at day 80 of its construction, its crowning dome had not yet been completed. Contractor William Lorimer, said to have been motivated by a unique mix of civic duty, financial gain and whimsical project planning, had carelessly committed to it being ready for opening day. As the 1891 exhibition officially opened its doors, the building was indeed there, and mostly ready to welcome the world to a rural part of Victoria that would later become incorporated as the municipality of Oak Bay in 1906.
The building boasted more than 26,000 square feet of exhibition space on the ground floor, with an additional
10,000 square feet in the galleries. Its central arcade, illuminated by 52 monumental windows that rose from floor to roof, ensured a pleasant atmosphere of air and light. At each corner, grand staircases led to two upper levels of arcaded galleries.
On top of it all, the main flagpole rose 170 feet into the clouds, surrounded by four smaller cupola-capped towers connected by walkways and balconies. A platform 75 feet high boasted the highest viewpoint anywhere in the city, and 23 flagpoles of various heights created a colourful ensemble of patriotic flags and pennants. Equal parts castle, cathedral and commercial market hall, it made a striking and almost dreamlike silhouette at sunrise and sunset, contrasting with the surrounding countryside of farms and fields stretching for miles in each direction.
The public was immediately enthralled by its grandeur and scale, the likes of which had not been seen before anywhere in B.C. Pre-dating the Francis Rattenbury-designed Parliament Buildings by six years, many commentators considered the new Crystal Palace the greatest architectural triumph in western Canada.
Despite its public acclaim, it didn’t take long for cracks to show, literally, in the grand façade. The rushed construction job meant many cut corners and even within the first year, vendors and visitors complained about creaky and sinking floorboards, frequent roof leaks, unreliable and hazardous electric lighting and many more problems ranging from minor inconveniences to dangerously poor and shoddy construction work.
Continuous upkeep and frequent repairs proved extremely
costly. Faulty wiring became a perennial concern. Between 1896 and 1900, the building was deemed unsafe and shuttered, to great public dismay. In advance of the royal visit in 1901, thousands of dollars were spent for critical structural and cosmetic upgrades to ensure it was fit, and safe, for a king. Despite the costly renovations, and rather incredibly, mere moments after the royal couple’s departure, smoke was spotted from a ground-floor window, and the fire brigade was called to extinguish a small fire. Faulty wiring was the likely culprit.
Nevertheless, the Crystal Palace proved to be a popular and iconic anchor for the expansive Willows Fairgrounds property, which hosted annual fall fairs until 1941, by which time many old structures on the property had fallen into disrepair. In 1948, the land was sold and subdivided for residential development, with a small portion retained for public use as Carnarvon Park.
Oak Bay’s glittering Crystal Palace exhibition hall was an architectural masterpiece, but has largely been forgotten in the mists of time. It burned to the ground on Boxing Day 1907 in a giant inferno seen as far away as Seattle. Firefighters who had quickly arrived on scene were powerless to act. There was only one nearby fire hydrant, and no fire hose. They, and the rest of the city, watched helplessly as the windows shattered, the grand dome collapsed and strong winds fanned the gigantic flames, which were said to have lit up the night sky as though it were day. The cause of the fire was undetermined but blamed on arson—a sad and undignified end to the Crystal Palace’s brief and chequered 16-year reign as the architectural crown jewel of Oak Bay.
The hustle and bustle at the Willows Fairgrounds and racetrack in 1902, the year following the royal visit. (Courtesy B.C. Archives)
Christopher Causton was mayor of Oak Bay for 15 years. He is now the Goodwill Ambassador and a captain with Victoria Harbour Ferries. He is the former owner of Jason’s (Wind Cries Mary) and Rattenbury’s (Old Spaghetti Factory) and is a classically trained hotelier. A member of Harbourside Rotary for 40 years, he flies different flags at his house every day albeit the Ukrainian flag which has been proudly flying since February 24, 2022. ec595@hotmail.com
Oak Bay: A treasure trove of artists
The Oak Bay community has always been a treasure trove of artists.
Way back in 1909, the Victoria Sketch Club started, and many renowned artists have taken part since, including Emily Carr. She famously tried to pay her Oak Bay doctor with a painting, which was refused with the comment, ‘My wife makes all the decisions!” The works of the Sketch Club are best viewed during their spring exhibition, which has been held at Glenlyon Norfolk School on Beach Drive for the past 40 years.
A different arts group, the Oak Bay Arts Club, began in October 1944 under the fearsome leadership of Miss Marjorie Nickerson. Meetings were accommodated at Municipal Hall, first in the early one, and then in today’s building. The basement was where the artists met. Today, that space is used by engineers designing underground pipes for the district – a different kind of artistic endeavour. This club, which was capped at 70 members, is now disbanded, but in the ‘60s, the group used to visit Hurricane Ridge on the Coho and spend the day painting.
The Oak Bay Community Arts Group (OBCAG), featuring among its cast of characters Flo Elle Watson, Imke Pearson and Jill Croft, came together in the late ‘90s and initiated the very first Oak Bay Artists’ Studio Tour, now copied by almost every district. At the same time,
the municipality encouraged all the galleries to get together at Christmas and sponsor an art walk where fine works could be viewed whilst sipping fine wine! The OBCAG then proposed an arts show at Bowker Creek, which still runs to this day on the second Sunday in August, with over 50 artists. This year, Oak Bay’s beloved first and only town crier, Kenny Podmore, is coming out of retirement to open it.
All of this artistic activity led to Barbara Adams (Tweed’s featured artist) introducing public art all over the municipality. Barbara was the brains behind the public art at Monterey School, but when she left the school, Oak Bay called. Thanks to her and her team, all of us flâneurs can now enjoy public art on many streets we wander on. We all eagerly anticipate spring when the displays on the streets are changed.....check out the one at the bottom of Transit Road! It’s the same block where two famous artists, Travers Smith and Fenwick Lansdowne, lived.
There are many ironies in life, and in an artistic community, there will be lots. In 2004, a logo competition was held for Oak Bay’s Centennial. Naturally, the competition, judged by some of the finest local artists, would be anonymous! Strange to tell, but the winning design was submitted by a Dow Chemical Engineer who was on an extended holiday in Oak Bay. He was from Dearborn, Michigan. It just goes to show that art is universal – we should all try our hand!
JUST ASKING.... At the start of COVID-19, the famous ‘White Toilet Plunger’ arrived on Oak Bay streets. Its most famous location is still outside Fairway Market, at the crosswalk. Engineers asked if we wanted to bump out the curbs. Time for action!
info@oakbayvolunteers.org
Diving into deep blue bliss at ABC Islands
The Islands offer a colourful, invigorating getaway
By Tess van Straaten
Photo by Tourism Bonaire
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Curaçao’s historic capital of Willemstad, founded in 1634 by the Dutch West India Company, is a UNSECO World Heritage site, and its distinctly Dutch architecture is painted in colourful Caribbean hues.
There’s nothing quite as magical as swimming with sea turtles as they gently and gracefully glide through the sea. As I follow a friendly turtle through the crystal clear turquoise waters of the Southern Caribbean, the rest of the world slips away. But through the silence and stillness, I can faintly hear laughter from visitors on the nearby pier as their excitement ripples across the waterline.
I’m at Playa Piskado, also known as Playa Grandi, on the northwestern tip of Curaçao. It’s one of the best places to swim and snorkel with sea turtles because local fisherman feed them leftovers after they clean their fish beside the boat ramp. Passing around a tip bucket, a sun-battered Island character named Nell holds court on the wooden pier, tossing in treats so the turtles swim up to it.
After just a few minutes in the water, I count three turtles—the calm, big one I first swam with, a more cautious baby turtle, and one that’s in between the two. As I swim alongside them, it’s clear they’re not the only opportunistic fish feeders at Playa Piskado. Large pelicans also line the shoreline, wading into the shallow water to get their share of the feast. At one point, I even see a pelican try to steal a fish right out of a turtle’s mouth.
Curaçao is the first stop—and the largest island at 440 square kilometres—on our cruise ship tour of the ABC
Islands. Off the north coast of South America and below the hurricane belt, the sunny and wind-swept Dutch islands of Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao boast beautiful beaches, friendly people, and appeal to travellers from all over the world.
Curaçao’s historic capital of Willemstad, founded in 1634 by the Dutch West India Company, is a UNSECO World Heritage site, and its distinctly Dutch architecture is painted in colourful Caribbean hues.
“It’s actually a funny story,” our Holland America Line cruise and travel director, Jayme McDaniel, tells me. “A long time ago, all the buildings were white, but the governor at the time said they needed to be painted in pastels. Well, it turns out he owned the paint company.”
Whatever the reason, the colourful buildings have helped make the small city of Willemstad, once a key port in the Netherlands’ colonial empire, famous. The Queen Emma Bridge—an 850-metre pontoon bridge spanning St. Anna Bay and connecting the popular Punda and Otrobanda districts—is another highlight. Affectionately called the ‘Swinging Old Lady’, the bridge has the unique ability to swing open to let ships pass. When we first arrive, a short stroll from the cruise port that takes us past the historic Rif Fort, the bridge is open, so we jump on the free passenger ferry that shuttles people across the short distance.
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After easily exploring downtown on foot and checking out a market along the water, we decide to rent a car—something Jayme recommended, which is cheaper than taking taxis. We’re in Curaçao overnight, so we still have a full day left to explore. Our next stop is Kokomo Beach, just a short jaunt from Willemstad, and along the way, we are delighted to see dozens of pink flamingos in the salt flats. Like most beaches here, Kokomo has chair and umbrella rentals, and a rustic bar we seek shelter in when a strong rainstorm rolls in. Kokomo even has a large, wooden swing in the ocean—perfect for photos, especially at sunset. Sampling some Island-made blue Curaçao liquor, we watch the storm dance across the water.
Our third and final beach adventure is at Playa Kalki, a short drive from Playa Piskado, which is the most northern beach on the Island. It has palapas for shade, comfy day bed rentals, and a restaurant perched above the beach, along with beautiful
blue and turquoise tropical fish in the water.
Our next port of call is the friendly island of Aruba, where you’re greeted everywhere you go with ‘Bon Bini’, which means welcome in Papiamento. But it’s more than just a welcome—the phrase captures the warmth, hospitality,
and heartbeat of the Island’s culture. After exploring the capital of Oranjestad, which was named after the Dutch royal family (the ‘House of Orange’) and is also dotted with historic Dutch architecture including the beautiful Royal Plaza Mall, we find out the snorkelling trip we’d booked in advance to see two
Photo by Tess van Straaten
popular sites was cancelled right as it was supposed to begin.
With only a few hours left on the island, we decide to head to the beach, and there are lots of great options, including the popular Eagle and Palm beaches. We settle on Arashi Beach, on the northwestern tip of the wind-swept island, not far from the California Lighthouse. It was voted one of the best snorkelling spots on the Island and it did not disappoint! A coral reef runs parallel to the shoreline and is teeming with marine life. After floating through the water for most of the afternoon (which is a great way to avoid the often windy conditions that have even shaped the trees here!), we dry off on beach chairs and enjoy a local beer (okay, it was a bucket, but we weren’t driving).
The smallest and most undeveloped member of the ABCs is the tiny island of Bonaire, which has a population of just 25,000 people. But it holds a very large and special place in my heart. Hands down, it has the best snorkelling and diving due to its world-class reef system. Ringed by a 16,500acre National Marine Park, there are 85 dive sites, and you can snorkel from the beach, which is why we always bring our own snorkelling gear.
The pace on Bonaire is also even slower than your typical ‘island time’, harkening back to a simpler time of life. As
Photo by Tess van Straaten
LOVE MY DOG!
Dogs [dawgs, dogs] 1. Best friend to all, bred in many sizes and shapes. The Avenue [thuh av-uh-nyoo, -noo] 1. A popular destination for those seeking funky eateries, awesome art galleries and trendy stores in Oak Bay.
Photos by Peyton Seltenrich
