Graves-Sauternes: In the Press (2023)

GRAVES PESSAC-LÉOGNAN SAUTERNES BARSAC

If You Don't Like Sweet Wine, You Probably Haven't Had Sauternes

Brian Freedman

While dry wines play marquis roles in the Loire Valley, Burgundy, and Rias Baixas, yet the most famous wines from Sauternes, in Bordeaux, are sweet. Among collectors, the top estates in the region can command impressively high prices, especially for older vintages. A quick search online reveals many very old bottles of Château d’Yquem the benchmark estate for Sauternes, the only one to be ranked Premier Cru Superieur in the famous 1855 classification, and a favorite, famously, of Thomas Jefferson for sale, some of them going back to the first half of the 20th century, for hundreds or even thousands of dollars. At auction, bottles from the 1800s occasionally come up for sale.

So what is it about this region and the wines that are produced there that makes it so special? Read on to learn everything you need to know about wines from Sauternes.

Where is Sauternes?

Sauternes is located towards the southeast of Bordeaux, in the Graves section. It’s comprised of five individual communes; Barsac is the most famous, and the only one whose wines have the legal right to specify that they’ve been produced there on the label. The other communes are Sauternes, Fargues, Bomme, and Preignac, but the wines produced in those four are labeled as Sauternes, not as having come from their individual communes.

30 Bottles from Bordeaux You Should Buy Right Now

How is Sauternes wine made?

Bordeaux as a whole may be best known for its age-worthy red wines, but Sauternes is the epicenter of the region’s sweet white wine production.

Because of the location of Sauternes, its vineyards which produce mostly Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, with Muscadelle as well are often infected with a fungus called Botrytis cinerea, known more commonly as Noble Rot. This fungus has two distinct impacts on the berries: It partially dehydrates them, and it changes the flavors that are present when the grapes are pressed and fermented.

What does Sauternes wine taste like?

The taste of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon may be familiar, but they undergo a distinct change in flavor and aroma when infected with Noble Rot. The best wines made with these grapes are sweet with balancing acidity, alongside flavors of honey, stone fruit (think peaches, apricots, and nectarines), flowers like citrus blossom or honeysuckle, and often feature a nuttiness on the praline, almond, or walnut end of the spectrum. Notes of tropical fruit, apples, and sweet spices may also be found.

Yet given the age-enhancing presence of residual sugar and acidity (acid is crucial for keeping all wines, but especially sweet ones, from becoming cloying), the best wines of Sauternes can age for many decades if stored properly. Mature bottles tend to take on even greater savoriness though without losing their ambrosial sweetness with notes of mushrooms commonly referenced.

What dishes pair best with Sauternes wine?

Sauternes tends to pair well with savory dishes like foie gras, as the acidity of the wine cuts through the richness of the liver, and the sweetness works as a brilliant counterpoint, while not being overwhelmed by any traditionally fruit-based accompaniments like apple or berry compote. Sauternes also works well with cheese sipped with a great Roquefort, it’s delicious.

Do you have to spend a fortune on Sauternes wine?

Not at all! A bottle of Château d’Yquem will certainly set you back a serious amount of money it is, in fairness, a transcendently wonderful experience but there are plenty of fantastic ones that are surprisingly affordable. The 2018 Château Doisy-Védrines Sauternes is available for just over $30 in a 375ml half-bottle (a common format for Sauternes). It sings with honeyed apricots, candied oranges, and sweet almonds, all perking up with acidity. The 2015 Château Climens Barsac is more expensive at between $50 and $60 for a half-bottle, but it’s a cellar-worthy treat. Notes of caramelized apples, honeysuckle, and pecan pralines ring through a ginger-spiced and pie-crust-y finish.

The Classic Wine And Dessert Pairings You Need To Try, According To A Sommelier

Hayley Hamilton Cogill

A sugary treat to finish a meal is the perfect conclusion, satisfying the palate's desire for a sweet ending. The Thanksgiving feast is only complete with a slice of pumpkin pie. Likewise, no wedding reception takes place without a piece of cake to toast the happy couple. And nothing is more American than apple pie. Adding a wine pairing can further elevate the dessert experience. Wine is a natural flavor enhancer for all types of foods, from savory to sweet.

However, pairing wine with dessert can be tricky. The general pairing rules follow the same guidelines of any wine and food pairing, including that the flavors of the wine and dessert should complement each other. However, the wine must be sweeter than the dessert to ensure the combination does not taste flat or come across as bitter. The wine must also have texture and body to stand up to the dessert's weight while having acidity and freshness to balance the richness.

As a trained sommelier and long-time wine and spirits writer, I have spent years identifying the ideal pairings for a range of wines and foods, including the sweet ones. With this in mind, we have compiled a guide of delectable wine pairings for 18

classic desserts, from chocolatey and fruity options to traditional cakes to pies, allowing you to discover how adding a glass of wine to your favorite dessert will transform the flavor.

Sauternes with crème brûlée

Creamy, custardy crème brûlée with a caramelized sugar top shines with the botrytized white Bordeaux wine known as Sauternes. Sauternes is not as light and delicate as its botrytized neighbor in the north, Quarts de Chaume, as Bordeaux is inherently warmer than Loire Valley, creating well-ripened flavors with a thick, sticky, syrupy consistency.

Late-harvest Sauternes uses predominantly sémillon fruit with sauvignon blanc exposed to cooling mist in the morning, causing the noble rot to thrive. Dry afternoon winds ensure the fungus does not destroy the fruit altogether. Exposing the grapes to this pattern of humid morning mist and dry afternoon winds over several weeks intensifies the fruit flavors while adding richness and complexity, layering honeyed apricot, candied ginger, and orange marmalade that some call liquid gold.

Review: Left Bank Bordeaux from Ch. Larrivet Haut-Brion and Ch. Olivier, 2020 Vintage

Christopher Null

Discussions about the merits of Bordeaux’s Left Bank and Right Bank separated by the Dordogne and Garonne rivers are as old as modern winemaking itself. And while many will endlessly debate the quality of the two factions, there are some key differences in winemaking between the two regions.

When it comes to reds, both areas make blends using at least some of the five classic Bordeaux grape varieties. However, the Left Bank is known for leaning heavily on cabernet sauvignon, while the Right Bank is more egalitarian, with merlot typically taking the lead. If you’re trying to suss out whether a Bordeaux tasted blind is Left or Right Bank, looking for the signs of cab or merlot is usually your best first step.

As for white wines, they aren’t produced on the Right Bank only the Left Bank makes these blends, which are built around sauvignon blanc, sémillon, and muscadelle. If you’re drinking White Bordeaux, it’s a Left Bank wine.

Today we’re looking at a pair of Left Bank bottles from the Pessac-Leognan region, 2020 vintage. Thoughts follow.

2020 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Rouge – A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 13% Cabernet Franc. In stark contrast to my earlier advice, the merlot influence is suprisingly vivid on the nose, providing a purple, floral quality that offsets the more brooding, earthy character that awaits the drinker on the palate. A little punch of spice gives the wine a midpalate pop, but the finish is all gravel and a touch of dark creosote, where dark fruit and licorice notes finally come into clearer focus amidst all the savory earth. Amply tannic but far from blown out, it’s approachable now but will likely improve mildly over the next 2 to 3 years in cellar. B+ / $50

2020 Château Olivier Pessac-Léognan Blanc – A bright and shiny blend heavy on sauvignon blanc, this dry white features crisp notes of green melon, gooseberry, and a dollop of lemon curd which adds a cleansing citrus character. It’s not a complicated wine, but white Bordeaux is often a rather simple prelude to the region’s more complex reds, and this is no exception. A burst of minerals precede a smear of vanilla cream that finally winds things up. A- / $35

January 26, 2024

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Winter is the best time for dessert wine: Every type worth drinking

How to pick a great dessert wine bottle

By Mark Stock

Dessert wine deserves more of your time. That’s because, like Mexican cuisine or the best coffee beans, there’s an entire world worth exploring. And while generally on the sweeter side, dessert wines are more than syrupy fruit bombs.

Many options within the dessert wine genre tout profound complexity and pair perfectly with winter dishes like butterdrenched shellfish. Some, like Sauternes, can age for generations, while others, like sweet Riesling, can beautifully take the sting out of spicy fare like Thai food. Some can serve as the perfect post-meal nightcap.

Here are the dessert wine styles you need to know.

Typical cool climate dessert wines

The following dessert wines are common in cooler growing areas where a later harvest or even a post-freeze pick can yield some unique juice.

Ice Wine

Living up to its name, ice wine is made from frozen clusters, either naturally chilled or through the power of refrigeration. Freezing the fruit concentrates the sugars, allowing for a sweeter wine. Low yields mean there’s generally not that much ice wine out there, with countries like Canada and Germany being leading producers. In the U.S., you’ll find them being made in the Midwest, Finger Lakes, and other cold, mostly northern regions. The style dates back to the Romans, with the Germans popularizing the style in the 19th Century. Thanks to a healthy amount of acid to balance out the sugar, ice wines tend to be quite refreshing. Try them with spicy Indian curries, creole food, or a decadent terrine or pate.

Late-Harvest Wine

Made from grapes harvested on the latter side, this wine style is like an ice wine but often made from fruit picked before the freezing conditions set in. The grapes are more dehydrated, concentrating the juice and upping the sugar-to-juice ratio. That means a sweeter style, but not necessarily overly so. Some are made from noble rot (often quite sweet), but cleaner versions made without any botrytis in the vineyard are crafted, too. Look out for some quality ones from the Pacific Northwest, dealing in grape varieties like Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and more. We like them with sweetbreads and lighter cookies along with nutty cheeses.

Sauternes

A wine with a bonafide pedigree, Sauternes is sought-after for its elaborate flavor profile and ability to age for a very, very long time. The wine tends to evolve beautifully with some cellaring and, while generally more expensive, is usually worth the splurge. The wine’s calling card is the brilliant yellow hue, derived from the Semillon grape in France. Because the wine is made with noble rot, the vintage variation can be pretty dramatic. So, splurge a bit with a few different vintages, pour yourself a vertical tasting, and pair it up with something equally high-brow, such as foie gras.

Sweet Riesling

By all means, seek out some bone-dry Riesling, but it’s the sweeter versions that arguably made the varietal famous. We love a semi-sweet option with spicy Chinese cuisine or a fully sweet one with salty cheese like gouda or parmesan. Look for classic regions like Pfalz and Mosel, but don’t overlook options coming out of Australia and the U.S., too.

Common Italian dessert wines

Italy does dessert wine exceptionally well, from fizzy options to ones meant for dunking your biscotti.

Lambrusco

Fizzy wine from Italy, Lambrusco hails specifically from the scenic Emilia-Romagna region. Off-dry versions go great with sides like sweet potato fries or a classic pasta bolognese. These wines are often bargains, and lots of fruit and floral notes show up on the sweeter options while the dryer versions gaining more and more popularity these days can tout nice structure reminiscent of a good Champagne or sparkling Rose. You can’t go wrong with a good seafood and wine pairing, like Lambrusco with a creamy shrimp pasta, or chilled down and enjoy alongside fresh oysters.

Moscato

Featuring one of the oldest grapes in viticulture, Moscato is one of the more recognized dessert wines. As such, there are a lot of decidedly terrible versions of the stuff, so be savvy when shopping. We suggest Italian takes from the Asti DOCG (it’ll say as much on the label). These offerings burst with peach and honeyed floral notes while hanging on to some juicy acidity. There tends to be a bit of enthusiasm, and they go great with fruit-driven desserts like strawberry rhubarb pie or a tart.

Valpolicella

The dryest versions of this wine drink a bit like a Beaujolais, while the sweetest options, dubbed Amarone, function much more like conventional dessert wines. This wine from Veneto usually shows red fruit elements along with some oak and spice. Amarone does tremendously with earthy and hearty winter fare, like short ribs, mushroom pasta, or even gamey meats like boar, elk, and lamb. All in all, Valpolicella is often a toothy wine that can more than stand up to your favorite big meat proteins.

Vin Santo

A classic Italian wine that begs for some biscotti, Vin Santo is also great with cheeses like gorgonzola. Amber in color, the wine was born in Tuscany and continues to be a great post-meal sipper, especially with something sweet to nibble on. Again, it’s all about concentration as the grapes dry out on straw before fermenting into wine. Vin Santo ages in little oak barrels and translates to “holy wine,” making sipping on the stuff a divine endeavor.

Other dessert wines

This story is the tip of the dessert wine iceberg, but here are a few more you should certainly have in your repertoire.

Madeira

Hailing from the Portuguese islands of the same name, Madeira is a fortified wine dating back to the 16th Century. The spectrum of the stuff is pretty broad, going from bone dry to quite sweet. The vast majority of Madeira is made from the Negra Mole grape, and neutral grape spirits come into play when the winemaker decides to halt the fermentation process (either keeping some residual sweetness or going a dryer route). Unlike most wines, Madeira is aged at relatively warm temperatures, which speeds up the process and tends to oxidize the liquid, creating colors and flavors similar to certain types of sherry. Treat the sweeter versions to some dark chocolate or funky cheese, and try the dryer ones on their own or with pickled items you might find on a charcuterie board.

Port

The good port is a treasure and maybe the ultimate cold-weather sipper, just begging for a fireplace and some Stilton cheese or herbed and roasted nuts. While traditionalists champion the real stuff from Portugal, producers all over the world are making some great options, including here in the U.S. Yes, port tends to be sweeter and red, but do not discount the white releases and dryer offerings at that. Be sure to serve in a smaller, tulip-shaped glass and try it on for size with some candied fig or a bacon-wrapped date.

One can be a student of wine for their entire life. Keep your knowledge sharp with our wine terminology guide and feature on fortified wine styles. Also, if you feel like wowing friends next time you host, read about how to mix cocktails with Marsala. There’s never a dull moment in the land of fermented fruit.

Explore Graves-Sauternes with the Vintners Who Know It Best

SevenFifty Daily Editors

February 9, 2024

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Vignerons of Graves, Pessac-Léognan, Sauternes, and Barsac cultivate distinct wines that deliver unmatched value for any wine buyer

The four AOCs of Graves, Pessac-Léognan, Sauternes, and Barsac are the gateway to Bordeaux, offering exceptional red, white, and sweet wines. Shaped by an intricate blend of elements, including rivers, forests, and the Atlantic Ocean, the terroir of this region, known collectively as Graves-Sauternes, lends itself to a variety of wines with broad appeal and remarkable finesse.

A diversity of microclimates and soil types give each AOC a distinctive character, and in turn, distinctive wines. Through these wines, each appellation adds to the renown of the Left Bank, where more than 450 dedicated winegrowers, known for their small vineyards and big personalities, carry on a spirit of innovation and centuries-old family expertise. The châteaux of Graves-Sauternes range from small, intimate plots to some of the world’s most historic and well-known estates, including the Grand Crus de Classés.

The vignerons of Graves-Sauternes demonstrate the living legacy of Grands Vins de Bordeaux. The best way to explore the intricacies of these appellations is through the voices of the vintners who know them best. Here, the women and men

From top left clockwise: Jean-Christophe Mau of Château Brown, Slanie Ricard de Pontac and her sister Elisabeth de Pontac of Château de Myrat, Pierre-Edouard Chatin of Château de Respide and family, Emilie Mercadier of Château Voigny. Photo courtesy of Graves-Sauternes.

of Graves-Sauternes share how they blend terroir with winemaking know-how to craft unique and memorable wines in each of the region’s four AOCs.

Graves: Pierre-Edouard Chatin of Château de Respide

Graves is the only appellation in France to be named after its soil, says Pierre-Edouard Chatin, the owner of Château de Respide. The name Graves refers to the “rolled stones” deposited by the Garonne River from the Pyrenees mountains. Hiding a clay underlayer, this stony landscape shapes fruity and vibrant wines with abundant freshness and elegance. The red wines from these vineyards deliver complex aromatics and are elegant and long-lasting. The whites express lively notes of delicate flowers and citrus, showing ample purity and minerality, with a light salty touch on the finish. “In Graves AOC, in general and at Château de Respide especially, wine production has always been a family activity,” says Chatin.

Graves represents a page out of French winemaking history, the first place in Bordeaux where the Romans planted vines when they arrived in present-day France. Today, it enjoys an excellent reputation throughout western Europe, yet is still being discovered by many drinkers in North America. Graves wines are known to be one of the top value-for-money appellations in France, which can make them very appealing to U.S. wine buyers.

Pessac-Léognan: Jean-Christophe Mau of Château Brown

Jean-Christophe Mau credits the unique character of Pessac-Léognan, a communal appellation of the Graves region, for shaping the wines he produces at Château Brown. The deep gravel soils where he cultivates Cabernet Sauvignon provide the remarkable conditions that elicit silky, elegant tannins in these red wines. The white grapes, including Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, are located on a cooler clay vein, guaranteeing freshness during hot, dry summers. The climatic hazards of recent years have prompted Mau to review certain viticultural practices, such as delaying pruning and limiting leaf thinning, particularly on white grape vines.

Pessac-Léognan appeals to drinkers seeking elegant French wines of unflappable quality, yet this region is still waiting to be widely discovered internationally. However, the proximity to the city of Bordeaux makes Pessac-Léognan the only periurban appellation, cultivating a connection with its customers and visitors in Bordeaux. “We work day after day, year after year, to shape and sculpt our vines to produce the very best grapes,” says Mau. “Our know-how is immense, and it’s up to us to share it with the world.”

Sauternes: Emilie Bon of Château Voigny

Emilie Bon credits an alliance of nature and winegrower know-how for the success of Sauternes. This exceptional appellation is known for the specificity of its terroir, which produces wines with rich and diverse aromatics. In autumn, the

The hardworking experts of Graves-Sauternes share their insights on what makes the terroir of each of the region’s appellations great. Photo courtesy of Graves-Sauternes.

berries are transformed by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, otherwise known as the noble rot, which concentrates sugars and aromas. Thanks to its precise geographical location, Sauternes appellation benefits from a microclimate that is essential to the development of botrytis.

Château Voigny and its neighbors are devoted to reflecting the wide-ranging aromas and diversity of these sweet wines, providing buyers and drinkers with an offering that can satisfy diverse tasting experiences. “The charm of Sauternes lies in its many facets,” says Bon. When enjoyed young, it is fresh and vibrant, but with some cellaring (up to 20 years or more), it evolves to offer more richness, indulgence, and candied fruit. These wines can grace casual apéro hours and traditional dinners, and complement sweet or savory food pairings. Enthusiastically received by both wine novices and aficionados, Sauternes wines, with their incredible complexity and unique versatility, are among some of the most renowned, coveted wines in the world.

Barsac: de Pontac Sisters of Château de Myrat

Slanie Ricard de Pontac and her sister, Elisabeth de Pontac, together manage Château Myrat in Barsac, one of the five villages within greater Sauternes. Barsac is a wine made from noble rot, and achieves its unique flavors starting on the vine. This artisanal product needs to be handled with exacting care. “Grape by grape, cluster by cluster, we pick the wellconcentrated fruit to craft our sweet wine, which is made with all-natural sugars,” says Ricard de Pontac. The person who picks the grapes during this careful process which can take up to four passes through the vineyard is known as “the first winemaker” of Château de Myrat, an 1855 Cru Classé.

The specificity of the Barsac appellation is the limestone and clay soil on a fissured bedrock, which provides natural draining. The limestone gives Barsac wines finesse, minerality, and freshness. This balance appeals to connoisseurs of noble rot wines as well as those who are just becoming familiar with the category. “This is a wine for pleasure,” says Ricard de Pontac. It is enjoyed young or left to age for a more meditative experience. “It can be enjoyed at any time,” she adds.

The wines from Graves-Sauternes offer a world of unmatched value that is yet to be fully discovered. From the exquisite red and white wines of Graves and Pessac-Léognan to the remarkable sweet wines from Barsac and Sauternes, these appellations cater to every type of buyer and consumer, whether seasoned connoisseur or novice wine enthusiast.

An Outstanding White Bordeaux

Andrew Chalk

Château de Chantegrive Cuvée Caroline, Graves ($32)

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

February 4, 2024

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A classic white Bordeaux blend (50% semillon, 45% sauvignon blanc, with a trace amount, 5%, sauvignon gris). It offers the bright acidity and herbaceous flavors associated with sauvignon blanc buttressed by the richness and smoothness of semillon. This particular instance is an especially enjoyable example. The two forces seem to be in perfect balance.

The winery notes below give clues to the techniques used to create this result.

Definitely a hit with roast chicken, pork or pasta with white sauce, try this wine to discover how impressive this blend can be.

WORDS FROM THE WINERY

“This wine was created in 1988 and was one of the first Bordeaux white wines to be produced à la Burgundy: aged on the fine lees in 225-litre barrels, and regularly stirred. It is so refreshing, so refined, with delicate aromas of white peach, acacia flower, and honeysuckle. Unctuous yet light, a little mineral in its youth, it becomes even more generous, reminiscent of brioche, as the years pass”

February 5, 2024

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Wine Press: Port, sherry and other dessert wines for Valentine’s Day

Ken Ross

Valentine’s Day should be a fun, romantic time to celebrate with someone special.

I will admit I have grown to really like Valentine’s Day. It’s sort of an uncool guilty pleasure, like some of the Hallmark movies I actually found myself enjoying a few weeks ago. (“Hitched For The Holidays” and “Christmas Inheritance” were far better than I expected.)

I also enjoy Valentine’s Day because it gives my wife and I an excuse to have a nice meal at home with some great wine.

So if you plan to do the same this Valentine’s Day, I thought this would be a great time to write about dessert wines. Some of these wines can definitely be on the sweeter side. Others can be a bit strong. But all of them have one thing in common – they’re delicious, in my opinion.

And whichever dessert wine you choose, it should pair well with all the candy and desserts many of us have on Valentine’s Day.

Hope you enjoy.

Sauterne

Delightful, sweet dessert wine from the Sauterne region in the Graves region of Bordeaux in southern France. Sauterne wines are made with a blend of mostly Semillon grapes, along with sauvignon blanc and muscadelle. Let me add that Sauternes age well for decades (easily 20 years or more) but can taste great relatively young, meaning at least 10 years old. Sauternes pair especially well with dark chocolate, blue cheese or French desserts like creme brulee or macarons. Let me add that if you can find half bottles instead of full bottles, I recommend buying a smaller bottle since Sauternes are best enjoyed in small quantities slightly chilled.

Recommended Wine – 2005 Chateau Rieussec Sauterne ($49.99 for 375 ml bottle at Table & Vine), a delightful, delicate Saturerne from one of the best producers ready to drink now. Keep refrigerated and drink within a week after opening the bottle.

This Valentine’s Day, say it with wine

Eric Asimov

WE ALL know that Valentine’s Day is simply a corporate money grab, a holiday with one purpose: obliging you to buy cards, flowers, jewelry, chocolates and candies, wear red and order from overpriced menus on one of the busiest restaurant nights of the year.

In other words, it’s great fun. And since it’s one of the biggest days of the year for consuming sweets, I’d like to make a pitch this year for sweet wines.

It’s not an easy pitch to make. Good bottles are luscious, nuanced and captivating. But they are arduous and risky to produce, which means they are relatively expensive. And consumers today find it difficult to incorporate sweet wines – once prized, much sought-after styles – into hectic, health-conscious routines.

I understand this. The era of the after-dinner bottle of port or Sauternes is long over. Classic styles of sweet wine have been unfashionable for decades. And yet, at the right moment, they can be so gloriously delicious.

Valentine’s Day could be the right moment. The focus is desserts and candies, so why not add to the bounty? Rather than try to force uncomfortable pairings of chocolates, bonbons and other desserts with red wine, why not a sweet wine that can truly enhance the pleasure?

While it may seem counterintuitive, sweet wines can go with far more than desserts. Last year, I drank Sauternes with oysters on the half shell and boudin noir, and thoroughly enjoyed the combinations. Why? Because good sweet wines are not merely sweet. They are beautifully balanced, lively and refreshing, which makes them, if not exactly versatile, less inflexible than you might think. Few wines will go better with strong cheeses.

I went shopping at New York stores for sweet wines recently and found 10 that I highly recommend. It wasn’t easy – the selection has dwindled over the years. But these are all worth checking out.

You may not be able to find each of them, but you will find options that mirror these pleasures. Given the fragmented distribution of wine in the United States and the relative scarcity of sweet wine, it’s hard to find specific bottles.

Recently, I had two wines that I wanted to include on this list because I had enjoyed them not long before: Broc Cellars Mockvin du Broc Rose 2015, its interpretation of Macvin, a fortified wine of the Jura, and Chateau Doisy-Vedrines Sauternes 2018, an excellent, moderately priced bottle (relative to other Sauternes).

But Broc no longer makes its Mockvin (it instead now makes a version of Angelica, the historic California wine made with the mission grape), and the Doisy-Vedrines simply was not to be found. Snap it up if you see it.

One reason many sweet wines are expensive is because they are risky to produce. Sauternes, the Hungarian sweet wine Tokaji aszu and others are at their best when affected by botrytis cinerea, or noble rot, a benevolent fungus that concentrates and amplifies the sweetness and complexity. But botrytis depends on particular weather conditions that are impossible to control and can easily turn catastrophic, ruining a harvest rather than enhancing it.

They are also labour-intensive, as harvests can often be bunch by bunch over a prolonged time. Most of the bottles on this list are not even full size, which means the cost per glass is even higher.

You probably don’t buy a box of chocolates and flowers every day, and you won’t often drink sweet wine, either. But on a special occasion, why not? Added bonus: These wines look gorgeous by candlelight.

Sauternes and Barsac are the classic sweet wines of Bordeaux, and are, as with most sweet wines, greatly underappreciated today. This bottle, from Chateau Climens, a terrific producer, is lively and powerful yet refreshing, balanced, deep, honeyed and nuanced.

Chateau Climens Barsac 1er Cru 2015, 14 per cent, US$52, 375 ml

Wine Press: 4 Bordeaux red wines that taste great

Ken Ross

MORE ABOUT BORDEAUX

January 16, 2024

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France’s Bordeaux wine region is divided into two main areas - the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The dividing line is the Gironde River. Wineries located on the southwest side of the Gironde River are on the Left Bank. Wineries located on the northeast side of the Gironde are on the Right Bank.

BORDEAUX’S LEFT BANK

The Left Bank of Bordeaux includes several famous subregions, including Medoc, Paulliac, Margaux and Graves. More important, red wines grown here tend to be made predominantly with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes blended with other grapes.

BORDEAUX’S RIGHT BANK

Some of the best known subregions on the Right Bank include Pomerol, St. Emilion, Fronsac and Castillon. And instead of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes being the primary grape in most red blends, most winemakers here predominantly use Merlot grapes.

BORDEAUX CLASSIFCATIONS

In 1855, Napoleon III (yes, that Napoleon) asked officials to rank every winery in Bordeaux. More than a century and a half later, those rankings remain relatively unchanged. There are five Bordeaux classifications, from First Growth (the highest) to Fifth Growth. For the First Growth (or Premier Cru), there are only five iconic Bordeaux wineries: Chateau Latour, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Haut-Brion, Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Chateau Mouton Rothschild.

There’s been a lot of debate over the decades about these rankings. Some wineries and consumers object to them. Even so, Bordeaux’s classification system remains firmly in place and it’s unlikely anything will change anytime soon.

WINE TASTING NOTES

2016 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion

Location – Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France

Grapes – 62% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 8% cabernet franc.

Tasting Notes – This Left Bank wine had an advantage over the other wines recommended this week – it has a few extra years under its belt. That often makes a HUGE difference when it comes to red wines from Bordeaux. That’s because those extra years often smooth out any harsh edges and often add an extra layer of nuance and complexity. That was certainly the case with this complex wine. There were layers upon layers of different concentrated flavors and aromas, including hints of blackberry, cherry and roasted almonds. A real winner.

Valentine's Day in Boston 2024: best things to do

JQ Louise

January 16, 2024

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Valentine’s Day doesn’t have to mean just a romantic dinner. There are so many things to do in Boston for this February holiday. Treat your sweetie or your friends to a fun night out (or in!) at one of these activities this year. But of course a reservation at one of the most romantic restaurants in Boston or a round of drinks at one of the most romantic bars around town are always good ideas too. Find something unique to do on Valentine’s (or Galentine’s) Day this year, and you're sure to impress!

2. Impress with a wine pairing dinner at home

Dive into a cozy winter night with a homemade dinner filled with a selection of Graves and Pessac-Léognan wine and food pairings. Offering sophistication in every glass, amp up your date night with these expert tips.

• Discover Château Carbonnieux, Pessac-Léognan Blanc, 2021.This exquisite wine boasts a transparent yellow hue. Pair it with a delicate seafood dish, like grilled sea bass or a citrus-infused shrimp risotto, to complement its citrus and floral notes.

• Indulge in Château Rahoul Blanc, Graves Blanc, 2019, which is a blend of 60% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot, bottled in May 2022 at the Château, yielding 112,000 bottles. Pair with a hearty lamb stew or a rich beef bourguignon to complement its robust flavors and velvety tannins.

• Delve into the richness of Château Haut-Selve, Graves Rouge, 2019, boasting 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. It presents a captivating garnet red color, a visual promise of its depth.Pair it with a rich beef stew or a herb-crusted rack of lamb to complement its deep flavors and refined structure.

GRUYERE CHEESE WINE PAIRING

David Crowley

OUR FAVORITE PAIRINGS

The pairings we have tested that work the best with a Gruyère cheese plate:

• Chardonnay

• Medium bodied rosé

• Fruit-forward red blend

We also recently enjoyed a Sauvignon Blanc from the Graves region of Bordeaux. It wasn’t a side by side comparison with my other recommendations above, but I’d say it worked but wasn’t quite as good as some other pairings we tried.

GRAVES SAUVIGNON BLANC

plate with Gruyere cheese and prosciutto wrapped asparagus, paired with a Sauvignon Blanc white wine from Graves, Bordeaux.

We had a chance to try the 2022 Château Langlet Graves Sauvignon Blanc ($23, 13.5% ABV, complimentary sample provided) with a plate that included some Gruyere as well as prosciutto wrapped asparagus. I got peach and citrus on the nose, with lemon zest and acidity on the palate.

This White Bordeaux (100% Sauvignon) from the Graves region worked pretty well with the Gruyere. But I have to say, it worked even better with the asparagus / prosciutto combo! The Chateau Langlet also was very good paired with our ground pork and cabbage recipe!

January 13, 2024

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January 9, 2024

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Small Vineyards, Big Personalities: The Unexpected Side of Bordeaux Staff

The Left and Right Banks have long commanded the industry’s attention. But the real soul of Bordeaux is found in the Graves-Sauternes region. Backed by passionate vignerons with impressive viticultural lineages, the wines created in this special corner of the world have never taken the trendy or easy path. Instead, these winemakers have focused on producing high-quality bottles that span the entire flavor profile spectrum, from red to white, dry to sweet, affordable to precious, and everywhere in between. This diversity of world-class wines has only been made possible by the artisanal techniques, innovation, and, above all, the bold spirit of the local families who continue to pioneer the region’s wines forward day in and day out.

Overview

Known as the ‘Original Bordeaux,’ the Graves-Sauternes region is made up of four main sub-regions: Graves, PessacLéognan, Sauternes and Barsac. More than 450 growers cultivate vines in the region with a unique savoir-faire that ties them all together. From prestigious Classified Growths to approachable table wines, Graves-Sauternes is made up of small vineyards farmed by big personalities, which creates the foundation for long-lived wines that are known to leave a lasting impression. Today, Graves-Sauternes accounts for 6% of all vineyards in Bordeaux (totaling 17,600 acres) and accounts for an annual production of more than 32 million bottles.

Gateway of Bordeaux

Graves-Sauternes traces its historic roots along the Left Bank of the Garonne River. Located just south of the city of Bordeaux, the area has long been considered the entry point to the larger region. These days, it’s even easier to access than ever before with the high-speed train system that connects Bordeaux to larger cities across France.

Historical Context

Graves-Sauternes’ roots date back to the 1st century with the arrival of the Romans and their viticultural expertise. But the area’s reputation as one of the world’s top wine regions didn’t come along until 1533, when Pessac-based Château Haut-

Brion was formally recognized as a Grand Cru only to be followed by the Classification of 1855 just three centuries later. In 1936, the AOCs of Sauternes and Barsac were officially established, followed by Graves in 1937. Five decades later, in 1987, the AOC of Pessac-Léognan became officially recognized.

Regional Overview

The Graves-Sauternes region is made up of four appellations: Graves and Pessac-Léognan, which produce the region’s famous still red and dry white wines, and Sauternes and Barsac, the sweet wine appellations. In addition to operating as an overarching area, Graves also acts as its own appellation, which is known for producing wines of elegance and style. The region is named after its signature gravelly soils, which play an integral role in the structure of its dry whites, dry reds and sweet wines. These wines are all hailed for their precision, balance and innate ability to pair with a variety of foods and occasions, from casual apéritifs to formal dinners. The wines of the Graves appellation are reputed for their artful blending; reds are known for their lovely tannic structure, and whites for their finesse and fruity, floral notes. Hearty fare pairs well with the refined red wines from the Graves appellation, such as roasted lamb, barbecue, and roasted potatoes, while fresh seafood like shellfish, oysters, and tuna complement the mineral-driven whites.

North of Graves lies Pessac-Léognan, which is prized for its mastery of power and subtle refinement. This “communale” appellation encompasses 72 estates spread across 10 villages, and is home to 16 Crus Classés de Graves, including the world-renowned Château Haut-Brion. Pessac-Léognan is defined by its mix of shingle, gravel and broken stone soils created by the flow of the Garonne, as well as its steep slopes that provide optimal vineyard drainage. Approximately 80% of wine produced in Pessac-Léognan is red and around 70% is exported annually. Its red and dry white wines are world-renowned for their incredible aging potential and their bold freshness and complexity. Any grilled, braised, or stewed course with beef, duck, pork, veal, or game dish is ideal for pairing with the earthy tannins of Pessac-Léognan’s red wines. And due to their fresh, citrus profile, Pessac-Léognan’s food-friendly white wines are a perfect match for seafood dishes such as roasted scallops and sushi.

The sweet wines produced nearby in Sauternes and Barsac are also coveted around the globe. While Sauternes is a wider region, famous for crafting boutique sweet white wines since the 16th century, Barsac is a communal appellation within greater Sauternes that derives its identity from limestone soils and fresh minerality. A combination of a laborintensive process and the uniquely humid microclimate, created by the Sauternes region’s proximity to the Garonne and Ciron rivers, allows for the development of botrytis, otherwise known as noble rot. The 140 winegrowers in the area are well-versed in working with the fungus that shrivels and concentrates the grapes and use their long-standing knowledge to produce the region’s acclaimed Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and/or Muscadelle-based wines. As per the Classification of 1855, Sauternes and Barsac were the most highly calcified regions, clocking in with a distinguished 27 Crus Classés. Known for their honeyed, candied flavor profile and incredibly complex aromas (more than 50 per glass), Sauternes and Barsac wines are capable of very long aging and once a bottle is opened, it will remain fresh for up to a month. These sweet wines pair perfectly with any number of dishes such as cheese and charcuterie, foie gras, savory dishes, shellfish, fresh fruit, and desserts or they can be enjoyed on their own as an apéritif.

Small Vineyards, Big Personalities

Beyond the esteemed growing conditions and natural phenomena of botrytis, the heart of Graves-Sauternes is found in its small-yet-fierce growers, who represent the living legacy of the Grands Vins de Bordeaux. From prestigious Classified Growths to approachable daily drinkers, the vignerons in the region balance between innovation and respect for regional tradition. This blend of old and new continue to make the ancient winegrowing region one of the most forward-thinking and value-driven areas for reds, dry whites and sweet wines of extraordinary complexity and global appeal.

January 9, 2024

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Exploring the Best of Graves & Pessac-Léognan Wines for Winter Meals

JQ Louise

Dive into the essence of winter with our handpicked selection of Graves and Pessac-Léognan wine and food pairings. Perfect for enhancing your winter dining experiences, these exquisite vintages from renowned French terroirs offer richness and sophistication in every glass. Join us as we explore these gems, adding a luxurious touch to your cozy winter meals.

Château Carbonnieux, Pessac-Léognan Blanc, 2021

Discover the elegance of Château Carbonnieux, Pessac-Léognan Blanc, 2021. This exquisite wine boasts a transparent yellow hue, hinting at its purity and refined taste. The cool August air has preserved its aromatic potential, revealing a symphony of grapefruit and lime blossom, enriched by lemony citrus notes after stirring. Experience a lively attack, a midpalate evolution with Semillon’s creamy texture, and a fresh, dense finish. It offers remarkable length, with delightful citrus and floral-fruity nuances. This vintage continues the legacy of fine white Bordeaux vintages.

Pair it with a delicate seafood dish, like grilled sea bass or a citrus-infused shrimp risotto, to complement its citrus and floral notes.

Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan Rouge, 2020

Indulge in the opulent blend of 60% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot, meticulously bottled in May 2022 at the Château, yielding 112,000 bottles. This wine showcases a deep, dark purple hue. Its intense nose unveils blackcurrant, black cherry, and a burst of fresh fruit, with hints of licorice and spices adding complexity. On the palate, it’s a symphony of greediness: powerful, juicy, and fleshy with coated, velvety tannins. The finish is remarkably fresh, fruity, and persistent.

Pair this majestic wine with a hearty lamb stew or a rich beef bourguignon to complement its robust flavors and velvety tannins.

Château Rahoul Blanc, Graves Blanc, 2019

Experience the clarity and subtle yellow-green hue of this exquisite wine, a visual prelude to its enchanting bouquet. Dominated by the sweet aromas of white peach, seamlessly intertwined with the floral elegance of lilac, it invites you into a world of delicate fragrances. Upon tasting, it starts smooth, soon unfolding into a richer, fleshier character. The wine’s substantial volume perfectly carries the flavors of white-fleshed fruits. The finish is long and complex, leaving a lingering impression of fruitiness, gracefully supported by a hint of delicate oak.

Pair this wine with a light, herb-crusted white fish or a creamy goat cheese salad to complement its floral notes and fruitforward character.

Château Haut-Selve, Graves Rouge, 2019

Delve into the richness of this blend, boasting 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. It presents a captivating garnet red color, a visual promise of its depth. The nose is a complex symphony of black fruits harmonized with Provençal herbs and the floral elegance of dried roses, typical of the finest Graves terroirs. Subtle roasting and leather notes emerge, indicating expertly managed barrel aging. On the palate, it begins delicately, unfolding into a dense, racy character with perfectly integrated oak. Dominant fruitiness with a hint of licorice and finely structured tannins ensures a balanced experience.

Featuring Langlet January 9, 2023

First Sips of 2024

Charlene Peters

Amid laughter among friends and loved ones, and the anticipation of experiences that lay ahead, glasses clinked in the glow of New Year’s Eve. And much like an aging wine unfolds its characteristics, the chapters that will fill this New Year are soon to come. In collective excitement for the possibilities of 2024, here are 5 world wines that unfold in a symphony of sips and stories.

#5 - Château Doisy-Vedrines, 2019 Sauternes, France

Life is meant to be savored, and with this aperitif, it’s certain – one sip at a time. It’s a change of pace to opt for a glass of Sauternes, made from grapes harvested within the gentle slopes of Bordeaux. But this sweet and golden nectar, crafted from Semillon and a touch of Sauvignon Blanc, captivates palates of connoisseurs worldwide.

December 1, 2023

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Affected by noble rot, Botrytis cinerea, this unique fungus imparts a distinct flavor to the grapes, transforming them into a lusciously sweet elixir. A dance between nature and craftsmanship, sweetness and acidity, a pour of Sauternes is like poetry in a glass. Price per bottle $57

#3 – Chateau Langlet 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Graves, Bordeaux, France

Each bottle of wine is a vessel much like the unfolding of a New Year, carrying the hopes, dreams, and resolutions of those who raised their glasses to bid farewell to the old and welcome the new. This Sauvignon Blanc of Chateau Langlet offers a pale straw pour of powerful pineapple and grapefruit on the palate, with enough structure courtesy of its touch of oak aging. Price per bottle $22.99

#4 – Château Larrivet Haut-Brion, 2018 Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France

This wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, is a masterpiece that encapsulates the essence of Bordeaux’s winemaking prowess. Its opulent bouquet sets the stage for a memorable tasting experience. The nose captivates with an interplay of dark fruit, perhaps blackberry and cassis with a hint of tobacco and touch of graphite. On the palate, it's a perfect harmony of flavors and mouthfeel. Its lush, velvety tannins cradle a cacophony of black cherry, plum, and dark chocolate notes. There’s a touch of spiciness that adds complexity, and the oak lends to its structure without overshadowing the fruit. Price per bottle $46.99

December 29, 2023

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Sweet Wine, Explained: Everything You Need to Know About the Delicious, Sugary Tipple

Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen

If we had one small wish for the new year, it would be that sweet wines make a comeback. In a recent Oeno Files newsletter piece on Port, we lamented the fact that we’re no longer asked if we want a sweet wine with our dessert in restaurants; we are just offered cappuccino and espresso. This happens even in fine-dining establishments, which have a dedicated selection of by-the-glass sweet wines sharing space with the dessert menu. It’s no wonder that legacy sweet wine regions like Portugal’s Douro Valley (the home of Port) and Hungary’s TokajHegyalja (birthplace of Tokaj) are producing dry wines alongside their luscious, sweet offerings. Don’t get us wrong, we love a good dry Douro red or Hungarian Furmint, but we would love to see sweet wine regain its standing among wine lovers.

There is an unfortunate misconception among wine drinkers that wine with higher residual sugar (RS) is cheap and not to be taken seriously. Prior to the Prohibition, Americans brought their sweet tooth to the liquor store, and fortified or Port-style wines what the Australians call “stickies” reigned supreme. With the destruction of the United States wine industry under the Prohibition and the post-WWII shift toward fine, dry vino from France and Italy in the middle of the 20th century, sweet wine fell out of favor. Although there are bursts here and there of a comeback, usually fueled by sommeliers and wine journalists, we have not seen a sustained movement toward a return to the glory days of sweet wine.

Sauternes and Barsac

Sauternes and the wholly contained sub-region Barsac, which are situated within Bordeaux, make up about 2 percent of the region’s total area, but winemakers here proudly point out that they earned 27 grand crus in the famous 1855 classification. Foggy mornings and sunny afternoons aid in the growth of Botrytis cinerea, which gives the wine its full mouthfeel and flavors of orange and apricot marmalade, toasted pineapple, and soft hints of baking spices with touches of beeswax and acacia honey.

The three grapes authorized for use are Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. For the most part, 80 percent of the grapes used in the finished wines are Semillon, 20 percent are Sauvignon Blanc, and only a very small percentage is Muscadelle, which can be very important for powerful aromas. Look for bottles from Château d’Yquem, Château Rieussec, Château Climens, Château de Fargues, and Château Caillou.

Savory Pairings: Blue cheese, foie gras, fried chicken, grilled pork chops, butternut squash risotto.

Dessert Pairings: Apple pie, peach pie, pear tart, crème brulée.

December 29, 2023

Budget Friendly Luxury Wines For NYE

Regine Rousseau

No matter your budget you can celebrate New Year’s Eve with elegant bubbles. Joining us now is wine and spirits expert Regine T. Rousseau to share some luxury wine options from $20 to $100!

December 29, 2023

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Big and Stay

Regine Rousseau

Home: Wine & Food Pairings To Elevate Your New Year’s Eve Celebration

Staying home for New Year’s Eve? You can create a luxurious experience in the comfort of your homes with these wine and food pairings. Wine and spirits expert, Regine T. Rousseau joined us with tips to elevate our celebrations.

Sauternes for All Seasons

By Debra Kronowitz

December 21, 2023

Small Vineyards, Big Personalities - Chicago

By Debra Kronowitz

December 20, 2023

2023 Christmas Day Special - Episode #143

Mark V. Fusco

December 19, 2023

Circulation: 6,105

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Before I knew it, it was time to record my Christmas Special! I got caught up doing deep dives into the subject matter for my next set of episodes about New Zealand and realized I wasn't going to get it all finished before Christmas. So here we are with a set of 3 wines. One from Argentina and 2 more from Bordeaux! First is the Non-Vintage Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Brut Traditional Organic Blanco. Second is the 2020 Château Olivier Bordeaux Blanc. And last is the 2020 Château Picque Caillou Rouge.

You Will Want These Wines On Your Holiday Table

Hayley Hamilton Cogill

When I was growing up, the Christmas Eve dinner was a very festive occasion. My family, including aunts and uncles, grandparents, cousins, parents, and siblings, along with a few extended family members or friends alone for the holiday, would gather at my grandparents’ Arkansas home for a lavish feast of seasonal flavors.

Everyone dressed in their holiday best and gathered around the table to celebrate the joy of being together. After the meal, every person around the table was required to perform some sort of skit, whether it be playing an instrument, telling a story, doing an interpretative dance, or sometimes all three.

The entertainment was a judged occurrence, done each year by my grandmother. My sister, cousin, and I were always a team, beginning the planning of our act months in advance. As luck would have it, we often won…I will say this is due to the incredibly talented performances we gave and not because we were my grandmother’s favorite. It was likely the latter, though.

The beauty of the holidays is being able to be with the ones you love. Honoring that time, laughing, talking, and reconnecting. Enjoying a stellar bottle of wine while you do this makes the celebration that much better. Each of these options is sure to please anyone gathering around your holiday table. #Cheers to Christmas

Finish off the night with something sweet, like a glass of Sauternes. Chateau DoisyVédrines blends 87% Sémillon with 13% Sauvignon Blanc grown in clay and limestone soils within Haut Barsac. The noble rot wine ages for 18 months in partially new French oak, lending spice, caramel, and butterscotch notes to the wine. Though the wine has a syrupy sweetness, there is also a lovely note of freshness, making this a match for fruit tarts, pies, or aged cheese.

December 14, 2023

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Fancy Ice, Nostalgia, Savory Cocktails, and 10 Other Drinks Trends That Dominated 2023

Oset Babür-Winter and Lucy Simon

From Caprese salad-inspired Martinis to Espresso Tonics with lunch (or breakfast), Food & Wine editors drank particularly well this year. We’ve found that there’s something especially exciting about realizing that an ingredient or menu item that feels like a happy coincidence is actually a trend. That feeling is especially when that trend (looking at you, savory drinks) extends to bars and restaurants in New York City, Chicago, San Francisco, London, and beyond. While 2023 is almost behind us, you still can still pick up a boxed wine that we think you’ll be pleasantly surprised by, or call for a fancy bucket of ice when you check into a hotel for the holidays.

Pairing Sauternes with savory food

Sweet wine is moving off the dessert menu and into the main event. At a recent meal at Massimo Botturua’s legendary Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, an experience that was a part of American Express Platinum's By Invitation Only program, Bottura curated a life-changing pairing. We were served an unctuous foie gras ravioli covered in shaved white truffles. The dish was truly flawless, but it was sent into another dimension when paired with a rich, honeyed 2009 Sauternes from Château d’Yquem. Bottura shared his passion for pushing the boundary of sweet wine with writer Céline Bossatt: “You know, people really don’t understand [it] — people think Château d’Yquem is for dessert and it’s like, what?” Foie gras not your thing? F&W executive wine editor Ray Isle attests that a glass of Sauternes goes well with simply prepared artichokes, and fatty tuna nigiri, too.

December 6, 2023

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The Other Bordeaux: What to Know About the Region’s Stellar Whites

Roger Voss

This may shock a fair number of readers: One of the greatest wines in Bordeaux is a dry white. It is made by first growth Château Haut-Brion. Quantities are small, as these wines are rare. And if or when you can even find them, they can be quite expensive. The 2014 vintage received a 100-point score from Wine Enthusiast; previous years have regularly achieved 97 points or more.

Sense of Place

What is it that makes this white Bordeaux, and many others, so impressive? “It is balanced, aromatic, complex and, above all, marked by its terroir,” says Fabien Teitgen, managing director at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, also in the PessacLéognan, and adds that, when done right, these wines have a strong identity and an ability to age.

Pessac-Léognan is perhaps the most renowned appellation for dry white wines in the Bordeaux region. Along with neighboring Graves, it forms the oldest vineyard region of Bordeaux, dating back to Roman times. But the quantity of white wine that comes out of the region is small compared with the reds from the same estates.

This notion goes back to Teitgen’s comment about terroir: There is only so much vineyard land in Pessac-Léognan with the idyllic mix of clay and limestone soils that suit white varieties. Thus, only 20% of production is dedicated to white winemaking.

And looking at Bordeaux as a whole, according to the Bordeaux Wine Council, only 10% of all wine produced is white. This, then, is why Bordeaux is known as a red wine region. But until the 1970s, says Philippe Bascaules, managing director of first growth Château Margaux, “white vines were in the majority in the whole region.” Red varieties eventually took over because there was more money in red wine sales. That is a shame, comments Bascaules, because while Bordeaux of course makes great reds, it also makes many that “are mediocre,” because in an effort to increase production, many vines were planted on land more suited to white varieties.

Oak Influence

Although relying on freshness, some of these wines also have oak aging, such as those from Pessac-Léognan and the Médoc. It’s an important issue for some producers. Monique Bonnet, owner of Château Suau near Cadillac in the EntreDeux-Mers, believes that “it is best for powerful wines possibly with a proportion of Sémillon and made for aging.” Bascaules at Château Margaux believes “wood adds complexity, density and weight to the wine,” while Teitgen at Smith Haut Lafitte cautions that overenthusiastic use of wood is dangerous: “It is important to make sure the wood is behind the wine.”

The judicious use of wood was one of the many legacies of Denis Dubourdieu, professor of oenology at the University of Bordeaux. His family have been wine producers in Bordeaux since 1794 and own Clos Floridène in Graves, Château Reynon in EntreDeux-Mers and Château Doisy-Daëne in Barsac. He brought white Bordeaux into a modern era, creating aromas and expressions that were unthought-of by using many Burgundian techniques for white wine, including barrel aging with new and once-used barrels, lees stirring, extended barrel aging all techniques that bring richness and aging ability For this, the French newspaper Le Monde named Dubourdieu “the Pope of white wine.”

It is a pity there is not more white Bordeaux but there is a desire for it. Monique Bonnet of Château Suau comments, “We’ve just planted more Sauvignon Blanc. We believe that there is a market for dry white Bordeaux wines, which are so accessible and still too little known.”

Whether searching for a cellar-stasher or a drink-me-now sipper, here are a few BDX whites spanning the style and price spectrum.

Pessac-Léognan

Always high on the richness scale, this estate’s white wine is vibrant with white fruits and hints of apricots. It is structured with wood aging and a tight texture that shows that the wine needs to age. The wine will be ready to drink from 2023. 96 Points — Roger Voss

From one of several estates owned by the Lurton family in Pessac-Léognan, this wine is floral, ripe and packed with tangy, citrus acidity. Wood aging has smoothed the tight, mineral texture and brought up the fruitiness. Drink the wine from 2022. 93 Points — R.V.

A full, ripe wine, this offers great acidity and ripe white fruits in balance. The wine is spicy, full of fruitiness and promise, finishing with a swathe of freshness. Drink from 2024. Editor’s Choice. 91 Points — R.V.

Château Pape Clément 2018

Château la Louvière 2018 Pessac-Léognan

Clos Floridène 2021 Ambassadeur de Graves (Graves)

Gifts for wine enthusiasts from newbies to pros

Mary Ross

December 6, 2023

Circulation: 291,000

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As a budding sommelier, I loved receiving wine-tchotchke gifts. Now, with enough grape-shaped earrings to last a lifetime, I'm happy to receive practical gifts that I use regularly. Maybe your wine lover from entry-level enthusiasts to certified cork dorks will enjoy using these gifts as much as I do!

Bordeaux: France's southwest Bordeaux region has piloted the wine world in quality and quantity for centuries, with vineyard notes dating from 4 A.D., world market domination from the 12th to the 20th centuries and modern-day leadership in response to climate change. To taste the original cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc wines that inspired winemakers around the globe, ask your merchant for Bordeaux, including the subregion Pessac-Leognan, which carved a place for itself in this ancient region as recently as 1987. Note that most producers offer red (rouge) and white (blanc) wines; check labels.

Chateau Latour-Martillac Rouge, 2020 (PessacLeognan) is fleshy and dense. Serve it as the classic accompaniment to lamb and other fine red meats.

Chateau Latour-Martillac Rouge, 2020 (PessacLeognan): Saturated flavors of black currants and cherries, licorice and spice accents and pleasingly mouth-gripping tannin, the wine is fleshy and dense. Serve as the classic accompaniment to lamb and other fine red meats. At shops and major chains for about $35.

Serve Chateau Haut-Vigneau Blanc, 2020 (PessacLeognan), as the classic aperitif and complement to oysters and lighter dishes prepared with herbs.

Chateau Haut-Vigneau Blanc, 2020 (PessacLeognan): Direct and vibrant herbality with dynamic mineral accents that define the region's unique flavors. Serve as the classic aperitif and complement to oysters and lighter dishes prepared with herbs. At shops and major chains for about $20.

2023 Thanksgiving Day Special – Episode #141

November 20, 2023

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It’s time for my 2023 Thanksgiving Day Special! I have three free samples for this year. 2 from Bordeaux and 1 from Australia. I’m super excited about these wines. First is the 2020 Château de Chantegrive Caroline. Second is the 2022 Yalumba The Y Series Pinot Noir. The third wine is the 2020 Château de Chantegrive Rouge.

Links for the show: Château de Chantegrive – https://en.chantegrive.com

Mark V. Fusco

Presentation covering Sauternes and Barsac

Christopher Tangh

November 6, 2023

Circulation: 34,695

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A Beginners Guide For Men Who Want To Better Understand Bordeaux Wines

James Hills

If you are looking for a place to start learning about fine wines, you can't do much better than with learning about those from the region of Bordeaux. Not only is it very easy to understand from a high level and look like you know what you are talking about ... "ah yes, let's pick a right bank Bordeaux" - knowing that it will be a blend that will lean heavily towards Merlot vs something from the left bank that will lead with Cabernet Sauvignon. But also unlike California wines where "red blends" are less favorable in terms of showing your sophisticated pallet ... here ... virtually everything is blended to create some of the world's best tasting wines from some of the best vineyards found anywhere on Earth!

Bordeaux France Is A Diverse Region With Different Styles And Qualities

The Bordeaux wine region is a vast and prestigious wine-producing area centered around the city of Bordeaux, within the Gironde department of the Aquitaine region in France. The region is divided by the Gironde Estuary into the Left Bank, which includes the Médoc and Graves, and the Right Bank, which includes areas like the Libournais, Bourg, and Blaye. The Médoc itself is further divided into Haut-Médoc and Bas-Médoc, with sub-regions such as St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St.-Julien, and Margaux. On the other hand, Graves hosts sub-regions like Pessac-Léognan and Sauternes, the latter being renowned for its dessert wines. Between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers lies the Entre-Deux-Mers area, known for sweet wine areas like Cadillac and St. Croix de Mont

Bordeaux's wine growing stretches across more than 110,000 hectares of vines, making it the largest producer of appellation wines in France, with about 57 appellations. The region's red wines (representing nearly 90% of the total production) how ma are typically blends, predominantly featuring grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carmenere. The Left Bank is known for Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wines, while the Right Bank favors Merlot.

White Bordeaux wines, often made from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, range from the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac to excellent dry whites from the Graves and Bordeaux appellations.

As for tourism, Bordeaux is a significant destination for wine enthusiasts, drawing an estimated 2 million wine tourists in 2018 alone. The region's vast vineyards, historic chateaux, and wine-tasting experiences make it a popular spot for both leisure and business travelers

Principle Varietals Of Wine You Will Find In Bordeaux

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux presents a vibrant array of flavors, including blackcurrant, black cherry, and plum, with aromatic layers of cedar, tobacco, and graphite. This varietal is full-bodied and robust, with pronounced tannins and a balance between fruit, acidity, and oak. It forms the backbone of many iconic Bordeaux red blends, especially in the gravelrich soils and maritime climate of the Left Bank appellations like Médoc and Graves

Sauvignon Blanc

In Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc often presents flavors of honeysuckle, white peach, beeswax, lemongrass, and saline. The region is famous for its red wines, but areas like Pessac-Léognan and Graves produce exemplary dry white wines, typically blending Sauvignon Blanc with Sémillon, and occasionally Muscadelle. Winemaking techniques like “lees” contact and barrel aging in Bordeaux allow Sauvignon Blanc to develop a richer taste with notes of brûlée and beeswax, particularly in high-end examples like Château Haut-Brion Blanc

They also sent us a bottle of Chateau Haut Selve from Graves, a remarkable 2019 blend that's sure to impress but I've decided to cellar since it is so young currently.

Chateau Haut Selve - Graves - 2019

While certainly completely drinkable, this 2019 Red Bordeaux from the Graves region is one I decided to cellar for a few more years to let it more fully develop. However, it has already attracted high marks in the 90s from other reviewers at a price point of less than $30. It features a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tasting notes are said to feature a nose dominated by black fruits mixed with Provencal herbs and floral notes of dride roses - indicative of the Graves region. In the mouth you'll find notes of roasting and leather with a wood flavor drawn from 12-months in French oak.

I'd like to open this in 2024 or 2025 to give it a bit more time to mature but as is, with the French Oak and Merlot leading blend, this should already be a very easy drinking and smooth Bordeaux that will probably be a great choice for Thanksgiving dinner. This wine will pair well with your traditional Turkey, stuffing, potatoes, and green bean casserole so I wouldn't be surprised it if doesn't make it past the next few weeks in this house!

Conclusion

As you delve into the world of Bordeaux wines, remember the diversity and richness of the region. Explore the various varietals and don't be afraid to ask for recommendations. Knowledge is power, and even a little can make a big impression.

Don't just stick to the famous names, there are smaller producers creating wonderful wines waiting for you to discover. Lastly, don't forget to try the lesser-known Bordeaux blends. Your local wine merchant or online wine shop concierge is going to be your friend here. They often have access to newer producers who are just now breaking into the DTC consumer market as well as those that are working to produce innovative new products that match your tastes!

Sauternes Fights to Regain a Foothold with U.S. Wine Drinkers

Betsy Andrews

October 8, 2023

Circulation: 57,090 Digital

After decades of dwindling sales, Bordeaux’s storied sweet wine is testing new strategies to boost its popularity.

in the village of Sauternes, France, Candice Hunt, the director of media and communications at Château Guiraud described the premier cru classé estate’s upcoming hotel, then poured golden-blonde Petit Guiraud to pair with an unexpected dish: fire-roasted dorade. The bright apricot flavor of Guiraud’s second wine contrasted beautifully with the fish’s salty, crisp skin. Though Guiraud’s blossomy grand vin got a less nervy pairing, magret is still not the part of the duck traditionally eaten with Sauternes.

Beyond the foie gras, cheese, and desserts with which Bordeaux’s fabled sweet wine is associated, châteaux like Guiraud are working to expand Sauternes’ appeal. It’s a strategy for survival. Fifty years ago, Sauternes sent 650,000 liters of wine to the United States. By the late aughts, exports had slid to less than a third of that, and though the U.S. is now Sauternes’ biggest market, the numbers have remained flat.

Now, the appellation is welcoming new consumers, revamping the winemaking, and changing the way Sauternes is packaged and poured. Producers are shaping a game plan for promotion that they hope will lead a revival.

Sauternes’ Image Problem

Sauternes and its lesser-known companion, Barsac, encompass 140 growers with two percent of Bordeaux’s plantings. Their wine is notoriously dicey to produce. It relies on Botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot, a fungus that desiccates grapes, leading to elevated, complex sweetness. Located where the Garonne and chillier Ciron rivers meet, Sauternes has historically had ideal conditions for botrytis. Morning fog rises off the waters during harvest to encourage fungal growth, while sunny afternoons ensure concentration.

But the presence of noble rot is no guarantee of a successful vintage. It takes many passes to harvest bunches with the right amount of botrytis, so production is limited and labor-intensive. Oak aging adds to the expense, and Sauternes’ residual sugar makes it so long-lasting that it’s often destined for cellars. Add to that a history that includes fans such as George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, and you’re looking at the makings of a luxury good.

When yields are low and collectors are flush, Sauternes’ elite status sells it. In 2020, 2021, and to a lesser extent, 2022, climate change frost, hail, drought kept botrytis from forming until late in the season, resulting in small harvests. Consequently, prices for fine wine marketplace Liv-Ex’s normally sleepy Sauternes 50, an index of the top 50 traded Sauternes producers, rose 13.8 percent in 2021 and 6.7 percent the following year. Though most of that reflects the performance of one wine Sauternes’ only premier cru supérior classé, Château d’Yquem other brands saw price increases, too. The shortage helped small growers move surpluses at a profit, as bulk prices rose to a quarter-century high. Still, Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu, the managing director of Domaines Denis Dubourdieu and co-president of the Sauternes and Barsac AOC, says “it’s not enough.” So Sauternes is looking beyond collectors to the wider market.

However, there are obstacles to reaching a broader audience. For example, in the early-2000s came Atkins-style diets. “Suddenly, anything that had sugar was bad,” says Nick Daddona, the U.S. trade representative for Graves-Sauternes. With 120 to 220 grams of sugar per liter, Sauternes became an avoidance. Sandrine Gabray, Guiraud’s winemaker, points, too, to the global decrease in wine consumption. “We were the first wines forgotten because we were consumed at the end of the meal.”

Winemakers at Château La Tour Blanche believe that reaching out through tourist events helps bring in new consumers. Photo courtesy of Château La Tour Blanche.

Compounding those trends is Sauternes’ absence from stores, which tend to carry it only at the holidays. “People don’t see us on the shelves because the wine is not offered on a regular basis by distributors,” says David Bolzan, Dubourdieu’s co-

president at the appellation. “And people have in mind that Sauternes is only for aging.” That might raise prices on exchanges like Live-Ex, but nowadays most people drink wines young.

“The truth is there are things at different price points, including half bottles of younger, second and third wines for $14.99 to $19.99,” says Daddona, “and as the wineries are going after specific markets and importers, we’re seeing more of that inventory.” But buyers’ adoption of new Sauternes SKUs is gradual, so the first order of business for several châteaux is tourism. If the wines aren’t getting to consumers, they will bring consumers to the wines.

The Rise of Tourism in Sauternes

Bordelais châteaux used to be famously off-limits, but that’s changing. “In the past five years,” Daddona observes, “Barsac and Sauternes have changed their minds. They are promoting hospitality to build community around wine.”

Bolzan, now the associate director of the négociant Vins+Vins, was the managing director of Vignobles Silvio Denz in 2018 when they launched a 12-room hotel and two-star Michelin restaurant at Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Denz’s premier cru classé estate. There, chef Jérôme Schilling incorporates Sauternes into dishes and features it in pairings, and the shop sells wine-related items from Lalique, which Denz also owns. “Wine tourism can communicate about the product and place,” says Bolzan. “That’s key to imprinting the name of Sauternes at the top of the mind, and we know that when people come to Sauternes, they buy wine.”

Château La Tour Blanche, also premier cru classé, launched a concert series in its vineyard, which sells 300 tickets per event. “We serve a lot of Sauternes, and people have a moment with the wine that they didn’t think was possible,” says winemaker Miguel Aguirre. “Afterwards, we have a nice picture to communicate on social media to try and captivate the young generation with our wines.” In 2016, 2017, and 2019, La Tour Blanche and five other first-growth estates created a lavish souvenir for their tasting rooms: a six-pack including one bottle per producer and a six-estate grand vin blend.

“Wine tourism can communicate about the product and place. That’s key to imprinting the name of Sauternes at the top of the mind, and we know that when people come to Sauternes, they buy wine.” – David Bolzan, Vins+Vins

In 2022, Maison du Sauternes, in the center of the village, was renovated. Carrying wines from 60 producers, the shop “is the only place to find so many Sauternes references in the world,” says Bolzan. Staff there walk visitors through tastings to shore up demand in export markets. “At least we have a place in the world where people can enjoy the wine, understand it, and buy it. They go back home and drink it with friends, then go to their local wine shop and ask for more. That is what we are looking for.”

Maison’s overhaul has led to a 30 percent boost in sales, and Dubourdieu is convinced that tourism has helped make the U.S. Sauternes’ number one export market. “We have a huge amount of American tourists in Bordeaux, and Sauternes is one of their biggest destinations because they love the little village.”

To lure even more tourists, the AOC is planning an interactive museum similar to Bordeaux city’s Cité du Vin that will tell the story of botrytis and Sauternes’ unique ecology. “Châteaux have created hospitality, and after four or five years, we have a very nice offering of restaurants and hotels at the mid- and high levels,” says Bolzan. “But the booster could be a national attraction. We want to change the perception of Sauternes, which is a very contemporary wine.”

Changing the Winemaking

If Sauternes has, indeed, become contemporary, that’s because the wine itself has “changed considerably,” according to Bolzan, in the past 15 years. “Consumer tastes changed, so the premiers crus have worked on the balance of alcohol, sweetness, and acidity, so the wine is more refreshing. People can enjoy it as an aperitif.”

Château d’Yquem has decreased sulfur and switched to wild yeast “to increase the clarity and precision of the aromatic expression of younger wines,” says estate manager Lorenzo Pasquini. Nearly every grower 90 percent, Daddona estimates is now at least practicing organic. Château Rieussec, Lafite’s first growth estate, will be certified organic next year and at Château La Tour Blanche, they’re using sheep to fertilize and weed without chemicals. “We concentrate these days on less vines, but manage them better organically,” says Vincent Cruège, the winemaker at Lafaurie-Peyraguey. “We can improve the wine’s quality and value. It is also the demand of the consumer.”

Winemakers are changing the way consumers think of Sauternes from promoting tourism to updating the production process. Photo credit: Deepix Inline.

Earth-friendly farming and what Daddona calls small producers’ “authentic stories” have potential to draw the attention of American buyers, who may be surprised to find these aspects in glitzy Bordeaux.

Expanding Sauternes’ Role at the Table

Producers are also marketing Sauternes’ versatility. At La Tour Blanche, the big push is cocktails. Served during the concerts and in the tasting room, Ginger Sweet blends Sauternes with ginger ale, mint, and, for astringency, cucumber peel. Similarly, Lafaurie-Peyraguey’s minimalist Sweetz enhances its second wine, called La Chapelle, with three ice cubes and an orange peel.

Others are pairing grand vins with unexpected dishes, like the tuna tartare served at Château Guiraud. “The restaurant is a good way of giving new ideas about pairings,” says Gabray. “Because of its fruity notes, aromatic complexity, acidity, and spice, there’s a big palette of possibilities for pairing Sauternes with seafood, poultry, and salty foods. Last year, we had really good sales, perhaps because of this message.”

Though it’s “still a struggle for people to wrap their heads around,” says Jeff Harding, the wine director at New York’s Waverly Inn, Sauternes as an aperitif makes sense. “Sweet wine makes your mouth water, which is the point of wine, so your appetite is primed.” The practice is a return, argues Dubourdieu, to regional tradition. “In the past, Sauternes was an aperitif wine,” he says. “The comeback of our original way of consumption helps a lot. People are thinking of Sauternes for many occasions.”

Bolzan sees precedence for Sauternes’ overhaul in rosé’s transformation. “Ten years ago, it was only consumed in summer,” he says. “Now people drink it in all seasons. That is our goal, to be enjoyed all year.”

While Daddona focuses on getting Sauternes into local U.S. wine shops, Château d’Yquem is concentrating on fine dining. Now in its second year, its Lighthouse program includes 50 restaurants around the world that act as brand ambassadors, offering glasses of Yquem with bespoke dishes: Parmesan tortellini at Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy; gravlax at

Paris’ Le Bistrot du Sommelier. “The idea is to put the highest amount of people in the best conditions to have the best experience possible with Yquem in a pairing that pushes the boundaries,” says Pasquini.

Going to Market

One enthusiast for Rieussec’s new packaging is chef Alain Ducasse, who partnered with the estate to pour its Sauternes at his restaurants in France. “It’s easier to get people to taste Sauternes in restaurants,” says Daddona. Stocking shops, however, is much more challenging. “We are providing seminars to buyers across the country and doing outreach to importers and distributors, so suppliers have an inventory when buyers look for the wines.”

For an individual château, “the next step is for our sales manager and me to work with one of our best U.S. importers and organize events in five or six cities where we can do new pairings,” says Gabray. “I did that in Asia this year, and we had success showing how our sweet wines pair well with local food in Vietnam, Japan, Thailand, and Singapore.” Guiraud’s entrance into the Asian market in 2010 boosted flagging sales.

Other producers, who once relied on négociants, are moving some marketing and exporting in-house. In Barsac, producers that only sold locally are now looking to small importers to bring their wines to the U.S.

All this activity has generated excitement and cooperation in Sauternes, and producers there are sanguine. “But we need more time to know if our efforts increase commerce,” says Aguirre. “The price has gone up. I hope it’s not only because of the lower quantity but because we have communicated a lot about Sauternes. I say often, the more we work together to promote the name of Sauternes, the more each estate will benefit.”

Pierre Lurton (left) and Lorenzo Pasquini (right) of Château d’Yquem claim that embracing more modern methods makes the difference for their Sauternes. Photo credit: Olivier Roux Vigneron.