Clairol Professional Technical Guide by Wella Brand Education

TECHNICAL GUIDE

CLAIROL PROFESSIONAL

When it comes to hair, every person needs a trusted, go-to expert. With over 90 years of experience to our name, Clairol Professional is proud to fill that role.

With quality products, professional expertise, and education, we’re making beauty accessible to all.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR PAGE 10

DEVELOPERS

PAGE 14

SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR PAGE 24

LIGHTENING PAGE 29 CARE PAGE 39

COLOR 101 HAIR STRUCTURE

THE STRUCTURE OF HAIR

Keratin Protein

Superhelix

Micro Fibers

Macro Fibers

Medulla

Cortex

Cortex Cell Cuticle

Cortex:

The main body of the hair that contains the hair’s natural color pigment, proteins, bonds and moisture.

Cuticle:

The outer layer of the hair that provides protection.

Medulla: The medulla has no known function and is not always present.

Sebaceous oil gland

Dermal papilla Follicle

HAIR POROSITY

Defined as RESISTANT, NORMAL or POROUS, and is the ability of each individual hair strand to absorb moisture and color. Hair that is more porous will experience greater color loss.

HAIR TEXTURE

Hair texture can be FINE, AVERAGE or COARSE. It relates to how large each individual hair strand is.

MELANIN

Is the name given to color pigments within the hair that reside in single riceshaped granules. It is a combination of eumelanin and pheomelanin pigments. EUMELANIN is identified in its highest concentration in black-brown hair and PHEOMELANIN in blonde and red hair. White/gray hair contains no melanin.

Hair shaft

Blood supply

COLOR 101

LEVEL & TONE

6 + R

N LEVEL PRIMARY TONE SECONDARY TONE

Level refers to the degree of lightness or darkness, regardless of tone. For ease in formulation, Clairol Professional hair color is organized on a level system.

The primary tone is any hair color that gives a shade its overall characteristic.

The secondary tone in the hair color that complements, intensifies or neutralizes the primary tone.

NATURAL LEVELS

There are 10 Natural Hair color Levels:

• Levels 1 to 5 are Brown • Levels 6 to 10 are Blonde

The swatches below approximate natural hair color levels. Natural hair color contributes to the final result when artificial hair color is added. See “Contributing Pigment” swatches below.

CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT

CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT + ARTIFICIAL COLOR INFLUENCES YOUR FINAL RESULT

NATURAL LEVELS

CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT

OrangeGold Gold Yellow YellowGold Pale Yellow

COLOR 101

COLOR PRINCIPLES

COLOR SPECTRUM

PRIMARY

TERTIARY

The three colors from which all colors are created:

SECONDARY

Created by mixing equal portions of two primary colors:

Created by mixing equal portions of one primary and one secondary color:

COMPLEMENTARY / NEUTRALIZING COLORS

Colors that are directly opposite each other on the color spectrum. When two complementary colors are mixed, they neutralize each other by creating brown. For example:

BLUE

Yellow + Red = ORANGE

Violet + Yellow = NEUTRAL

Red-Orange + Blue-Green = NEUTRAL

Yellow + Orange = YELLOW-ORANGE

Blue + Violet = BLUE-VIOLET

Red + Blue = VIOLET

Red + Green = NEUTRAL

Yellow-Orange + Blue-Violet = NEUTRAL

Red + Orange = RED-ORANGE

Blue + Green = BLUE-GREEN

Blue + Yellow = GREEN

Blue + Orange = NEUTRAL

Yellow-Green + Red-Violet = NEUTRAL

Red + Violet = RED-VIOLET

Yellow + Green = YELLOW-GREEN

YELLOW RED

COLOR 101 HAIR COLOR

ELASTICITY TEST

Stretch a strand of hair. If hair breaks easily, do not proceed until hair has been reconditioned and retested.

POROSITY TEST

A dry/matted feel or a lack of shine are signs that hair is porous/dry.

ALLERGY ALERT TEST

Allergy Alert Test for Permanent and Demi-Permanent Hair Color and Toners. Though developing an allergic reaction is rare, the risk still exists. To be safe, do an allergy test 48 hours before you color their hair.

Step 1

Mix a small amount of the color formula decided during consultation following the mixing instructions on back of packaging.

5 2 3 4

FORMULATION

Step 2

Apply the color directly to the forearm below the crook of the elbow

48 hours For more information: ClairolPro.com The Clairol Professional Hotline: 1-800-221-4900

Step 3

Wait for 48 hours

If they don’t call to inform you if they had any reaction, you are ready to proceed with coloring their hair.

Lower volumes of developer should be used whenever possible if coloring chemically relaxed hair with permanent hair color.

STRAND TEST

To determine appropriate timing and predict accurate results:

• Mix small quantities of the formula to be used. Apply to a small (approximately 1/4-inch) section of hair from scalp to ends. Follow timing instructions for each product.

• Evaluate condition of the strand and color results.

ANALYSIS OF HAIR

A proper analysis of both hair and scalp is necessary before any chemical service. If scalp shows signs of irritation, do not proceed until healed.

COLOR 101 COLORING GRAY HAIR

Gray hair is a blend of pigmented and unpigmented (white) hair. For successful gray coverage and accurate tonal results, first determine 3 facts about your client’s hair:

• Natural hair color level

• Percentage of gray

• Contributing pigment

Then, choose a target shade and formulate to achieve that result.

NATURAL LEVEL

To determine client’s natural level: Section off area at back of head, close to scalp. Compare natural level swatches to client’s natural hair color.

TIP: If client’s hair color falls between 2 levels, choose the lighter level.

1 3 2 4

CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT

Once a client’s natural level is identified, refer to the corresponding swatch on contributing pigment chart. Formulate to ENHANCE or NEUTRALIZE this warmth, depending on your desired outcome.

TIP: For rich tonal results, choose a shade that enhances the hair’s contributing pigment (natural warmth). For cool results, choose a shade that neutralizes the hair’s contributing pigment.

PERCENTAGE OF GRAY

Examples of white hair on Natural Level 5:

Base your color formulations on 1 of the 3 gray percentages for best gray coverage results.

TARGET SHADE

LEVEL: For best gray coverage, always choose a level that is no more than 1 to 2 levels lighter or darker than the natural level.

NEUTRAL: Intermix the percentage of neutral that equals the client’s percentage of gray with the desired tone.

Example: 1 oz desired tone + 1 oz neutral shade + 2 oz 20-volume developer

TIP: When coloring gray hair, start where the gray is most resistant.

FOR OPTIMAL GRAY HAIR COVERAGE

COLOR 101

PRE-PIGMENTING GUIDE

Pre-pigment hair to replace depleted natural tones, reinforce warm or delicate red tones and prevent porous hair from “grabbing” cool tones. By creating a more even surface on overly porous areas of the hair, the new color will take evenly, from roots to ends.

DETERMINE THE DESIRED LEVEL (RESULT) 1

Choose a level, 1-10. The Pre-pigmented formula is located directly to the right of the desired level. Example: If desired result is a level 6, Dark Blonde. The recommended formula is 1 oz 7RN + 1 oz 7G.

1 part Clairol Permanent Color + 1 part Clairol 10vol Developer

PRE-PIGMENTING APPLICATION & PROCESSING TIME 3

Apply to shampooed towel dried hair. Process up to 20 minutes. Rinse well, shampoo and towel dry.

PRE-PIGMENTING FORMULA

Choose the desired Clairol Professional shade level 9 or 10

FINAL SHADE APPLICATION 4

Apply desired result formula evenly and generously. Follow recommended timing.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

PERMANENT LIQUID & PERMANENT CREAM

With SOY4PLEX™ for the four signs of healthy-looking color:

1) Up to 100% gray coverage

2) Deep conditioning

3) Reflective shine

4) Long-lasting results

Permanent Liquid is available in 12 tonal pillars. Permanent Cream is available in 11 tonal pillars

CLAIROL PROFESSIONAL PERMANENT TONAL PILLARS

Warm Tones: Reflect light and appear lighter. Cool Tones: Absorb light and appear darker.

PERMANENT CREAM & LIQUID SHADES

DEVELOPERS

FORMULATION GUIDE

CHOOSE YOUR DEVELOPER

If your desired final shade is lighter than your current natural color, you will need to use a developer that lifts while coloring. Whether your client is a brunette, or red, you only need to identify their starting level of brightness.

1 2 3

STARTING LEVEL

Locate starting level using the column on the left of the chart.

DESIRED LEVEL

Find the desired final shade’s level using the column on the top of the chart.

DEVELOPERS

Finally, find where the starting level and final level intersect on the chart. This will indicate the level of developer needed, or if you need to pre-lighten before coloring.

PERMANENT COLOR

MIXING GUIDE

APPLICATION

Apply in either a virgin or a retouch application. (High Lift shades: do not pull through the ends on a retouch application.)

APPLICATION

Apply in either a virgin or a retouch application. (High Lift shades: do not pull through the ends on a retouch application.)

PERMANENT LIQUID MIXING

GUIDE

For best color results and gray coverage, always use Clairol Permanent Liquid with Clairol Professional developers. Consistency is ideal for a bottle application.

For all shades except High Lifts (level 12): Mix in a 1:1 ratio.

High Lift shades: Mix in a 1:2 ratio with 40-Volume Clairol Professional developer

TIMING

Process 30 to 45 minutes. For maximum gray coverage, High Lift shades and red shades, process the full 45 minutes.

PERMANENT CREAM MIXING

GUIDE

For best color results and gray coverage, always use Clairol Permanent Cream with Clairol Professional developers. Due to the creamy consistency of Permanent Cream, a bowl and brush is recommended.

For all shades except High Lifts: Mix in a 1:1 ratio. High Lift shades: Mix in a 1:2 ratio with 40-Volume Clairol Professional developer.

TIMING

Process 30 to 45 minutes. For maximum gray coverage, High Lift shades and red shades, process the full 45 minutes.

CAUSES

Color was not on the hair long enough to process completely.

FORMULATION TIPS

SOLUTIONS

PREVENTION

Reapply fresh formula to complete processing. Processing time of 45 minutes is recommended for full color development of permanent color on gray hair.

Incorrect volume of developer was used. Mix fresh formula with correct volume of developer and reapply.

Incorrect selection of hair color. Level selected was too light.

Color selected was too ash/ cool for the percentage of grey in the hair.

Select a hair color slightly deeper in color and reapply. Check frequently. Less processing may be required for this second application.

Remix formula, adding up to 1 oz of a gold-based color in the same level. Reapply. Less processing time may be required. Strand test until desired results are achieved.

1. Always measure your color with a scale for accuracy.

Generally, 20-Volume developer is required for complete gray coverage.

Add a deeper color to the original formula or select a different color.

Add a warm tone to original formula or select a different, warmer color.

2. When mixing color either in a bowl or a bottle applicator, measure your developer first for ease of mixing.

3. When using a bowl and brush, use a whisk or spatula to mix.

4. Avoid over-mixing or whipping color, this can cause pockets of air to be trapped within the product, which will ultimately result in premature oxidation.

5. Make sure to completely seal all of your products to avoid losing strength performance.

6. To prevent an overly dark result on dry/porous hair, select a shade 1 to 2 levels lighter than the desired result.

COLOR CORRECTION

For best gray coverage, always choose a shade that is no more than 1 to 2 levels lighter or darker than the natural level.

First determine what the current contributing pigment is and formulate with the corresponding neutralizing tone.

Refresh ends with a level lighter than the current formula to avoid over depositing.

PERMANENT COLOR

COLORING RELAXED HAIR

ANALYSIS OF CHEMICALLY RELAXED HAIR

A proper analysis of both hair and scalp is necessary before any chemical service. If scalp shows signs of irritation, do not proceed until healed.

ELASTICITY TEST

To determine if hair is in a sufficiently healthy condition prior to a coloring service:

Stretch a strand of hair. If hair breaks easily, do not proceed until hair has been reconditioned and retested.

1 3 2 4

FORMULATION

Lower volumes of developer should be used whenever possible if coloring chemically relaxed hair with permanent hair color.

POROSITY TEST

To determine how quickly hair will absorb color: A dry/matted feel or a lack of shine are signs that hair is porous/dry.

The greater the degree of porosity, the more quickly hair will absorb color.

STRAND TEST

To determine appropriate timing and predict accurate results:

Mix small quantities of the formula to be used. Apply to a small (approximately 1/4-inch) strand of hair from scalp to ends. Follow timing instructions for each product.

Evaluate condition of the strand and color results.

APPLICATION

Use a clarifying shampoo before coloring. If hair is heavily coated with styling aids, or conditioning products, coating will interfere with color penetration.

Some hair color can be applied immediately following a relaxer like Beautiful Collection Moisturizing Color or Advanced Gray Solution

If hair has recently been chemically relaxed/permed, it is necessary to wait one week and one shampoo before applying permanent hair color and the majority of long-lasting semi-permanent/demi-permanent hair colors.

TIMING

Chemically relaxed/permed hair generally requires less processing time. Strand test frequently to determine accurate color results.

NOTES

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CREATE THE LOOK

STEP 1: SECTION

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

FORMULA A - ROOT COLOR:

Mix 1 part of Clairol Professional SOY4PLEX

Permanent Liquid 5RN + 1 Part Clairol

Mix 1 part of Clairol Professional SOY4PLEX

FORMULA A - ROOT COLOR:

Permanent Liquid 5RN + 1 Part Clairol

Professional SOY4PLEX Permanent Liquid 6RR &

Permanent Liquid 5RN + 1 Part Clairol

equal parts 10vol Developer (2oz 5RN + 2oz 6RR = 4oz 10vol)

Section from the top of the ear to the top of the crown on both sides of the head.

STEP 2: ROOT COLOR

Professional SOY4PLEX Permanent Liquid 6RR & equal parts 10vol Developer (2oz 5RN + 2oz 6RR = 4oz 10vol)

Mix 1 part of Clairol Professional SOY4PLEX Permanent Liquid 5RN + 1 Part Clairol Professional SOY4PLEX Permanent Liquid 6RR &

Professional SOY4PLEX Permanent Liquid 6RR & equal parts 10vol Developer (2oz 5RN + 2oz 6RR = 4oz 10vol)

FORMULA B - COLOR MELT:

Mix 1 part Clairol Professional SOY4PLEX

FORMULA B - COLOR MELT:

FORMULA B - COLOR MELT: Mix 1 part Clairol

Permanent Liquid 6RR + 1 part Clairol

Mix 1 part Clairol Professional SOY4PLEX

Permanent Liquid 6RR + 1 part Clairol

FORMULA B - COLOR MELT: Mix 1 part

Professional SOY4PLEX Permanent Liquid 8RN & equal parts 10vol Developer (2oz 6RR + 2oz 8RN = 4oz 10vol)

PRO TIP

FINE-TOOTH COMB

FINE-TOOTH

STEP 3: COLOR MELT

Apply FORMULA A at the root starting at the crown. Bring color 1.5" down to add depth and create a rooted e ect. When working on the back section, make sure to place the client's hair away from their face.

To prevent staining the skin, use a ﬁne-tooth comb to place color on the hairline and perimeter.

Apply FORMULA B to the mid length and ends.

STEP 4: PROCESS

4: PROCESS Process for 30 minutes.

Process for 30 minutes.

AFTER

Shampoo, condition and style!

Section from the top of the ear to the top of the crown on both sides of the head. and ends.

Use your ﬁngers to melt the two colors and create a seamless blend.

Apply FORMULA B to the mid length and ends.

Use your ﬁngers to melt the two colors and create a seamless blend.

Use your fingers to melt the two colors and create a seamless blend.

PRO TIP: Choosing a color that is 2 levels lighter will create a subtle contrast between the roots and ends.

COLOR CONSULTATION GUIDE

If they answer “no” to all of the following questions, go ahead and go blonde! If they answer “yes” to ANY of the following, STOP. Do an allergy test first. If they have a reaction, have them contact their doctor for advice.

Have you ever had an allergic reaction to any hair colorant?

Do you have a sensitive, itchy, or damaged scalp (e.g. eczema or psoriasis)?

Are you currently taking medication including seasonal allergy medication?

Are you new to coloring your hair or using a different brand/shade than normal?

Has it been more than 6 months since you’ve had color on your hair?

Has it been more than 12 months since your last allergy test?

Have you had a new skin tattoo, including henna or permanent makeup since your last color service?

Have you ever had an allergic reaction to any type of skin tattoo, including henna or permanent makeup?

Have you had an allergic reaction to any products since your last color service?

Allergy Alert Test for Permanent and Demi-permanent Hair Color and Toners. Though developing an allergic reaction is rare the risk still exists. To be safe, do an allergy test 48 hours before you color their hair.

Step 1

Mix 5g of the hair color or toner you want with 5g of developer, according to the mixing directions.

Step 2

Apply a bit of the mix on the crook of the arm below the elbow. Leave for 45 minutes and rinse until clean.

For more information: ClairolPro.com The Clairol Professional Hotline: 1-800-221-4900

Step 3

Wait for 48 hours If they don’t show a reaction or signs of allergies, you are ready to proceed with coloring their hair.

NOTES

SEMI-PERMANENT COLOR

BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION

MOISTURIZING COLOR

Zero Damage:

• Leaves hair feeling moisturized

• Gentle enough for use after relaxing

• Free of ammonia and peroxide

• Rich, natural looking color

• Lasts 6-8 shampoos

• 20 intermixable shades

BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION

ADVANCED GRAY SOLUTION

Zero Damage, Semi-Permanent Oxidative Hair Color:

• Leaves hair feeling moisturized

• Gentle enough for use after relaxing

• Longer-lasting gray coverage*

• Free of ammonia and peroxide

• Lasts up to 10 shampoos

• 13 intermixable shades

BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION

MOISTURIZING COLOR

SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

APPLICATION

Apply directly from the bottle generously and thoroughly to shampooed and towel-dried hair.

TIMING

Process 25 minutes at room temperature. Rinse well, do not shampoo.

For longer-lasting results and enhanced gray blending, cover hair with plastic cap after color application. Process under a warm dryer for 10 minutes, cool 5 minutes, and rinse well. Do not shampoo.

Apply directly from bottle, no developer needed. If intermixing, use a bowl and brush or applicator bottle.

Intermixing with Advanced Gray Solution is not recommended.

BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION

ADVANCED GRAY SOLUTION

SEMI-PERMANENT OXIDATIVE HAIR COLOR

APPLICATION

Apply directly from the bottle generously and thoroughly to shampooed and towel-dried hair.

TIMING

Process 25 minutes at room temperature. Use of heat is not recommended. Rinse well and do not shampoo.

PRO TIP

Be sure hair is thoroughly rinsed and shampooed per relaxer directions before applying any Beautiful Collection shade.

Apply directly from bottle, no developer needed. If intermixing, use a bowl and brush or applicator bottle. Intermixing with Beautiful Collection Moisturizing Color is not recommended.

JAZZING

TEMPORARY HAIR COLOR (WITHOUT HEAT)

Can be used immediately following a relaxer service. No ammonia, no peroxide.

APPLICATION

Apply directly from bottle to towel-dried hair in sections.

PROTIP: Use protective cream around hairline. Keep off scalp.

TIMING

Process 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse and shampoo.

SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR (WITH HEAT)

TIMING

Cover hair with plastic cap. Process under warm dryer for up to 30 minutes. Rinse and shampoo.

TIP: Heat is not recommended immediately following a relaxer.

PRO TIP

To get the most vibrant tones from Jazzing shades like Jet Grape, pre-lighten the hair to pale yellow.

DESIRED RESULT

Refresh color immediately after a relaxer or chemical service

Brighten natural color

Vivid color

Shine boost

FORMULATION

Select shade in the desired level and tone

Select shade 1 to 2 levels lighter than natural color

Apply to pre-lightened hair

Use Jazzing Clear

LIGHTENING

LIFT YOUR HAIR TO NEW HEIGHTS

Clairol Professional lighteners provide colorists with many choices from on or off-the-scalp blonding services, to freehand customizable lightening giving you ultimate creative control over the lightening process.

Discover the full range of products and education in this guide to take your client’s hair to new heights.

THE RIGHT BLONDE FOR YOUR CLIENT

No matter how blonde your client wants to be, it's important to be realistic as to what's possible and to find a blonde that's right for them. Use this section to determine the right shade for your client.

LIGHTENING

LIGHTENING 101

There are two types of applications:

ON-SCALP APPLICATION: ALL-OVER BLONDE

OFF-SCALP APPLICATION: FACE-FRAMING, HIGHLIGHTS, OMBRÉ, BALAYAGE

Did you know?

Balayage is a French word that means “to sweep” or “to paint,” describing a hand painting technique that allows for the hair to have a soft graduated color. Ombré means “shade” or “shadow,” casting a dramatic two-toned effect on the hair.

THE DEGREE OF LIGHTENING DEPENDS ON STARTING LEVEL, TEXTURE, AND THE STRENGTH OF THE DEVELOPER USED.

Example: Balayage

Texture Fine Starting Level 7

Strength of Developer 10-vol.

Product used: BW2+ & Kaleidocolors Violet

Face-Framing & Highlights

Product used: BW2+ All-Over Blonde Balayage

Example: Face-Framing & Highlights

Texture Coarse Starting Level 4

Strength of Developer 10-vol.

Product used: BW2+

Example: All-Over Blonde

Texture Fine Starting Level 4

Strength of Developer 20-vol.

LIGHTENING

LIGHTENING 101

CHOOSE YOUR APPLICATION METHOD

On-Scalp ALL-OVER BLONDE

Off-Scalp BALAYAGE

Off-Scalp FACE-FRAMING and HIGHLIGHTS

DETERMINE THE TEXTURE OF YOUR CLIENTS HAIR

Fine hair

Smaller and more fragile, similar to a sewing thread. We recommend using a maximum of 20-vol. developer. Fine hair can lighten quickly, especially the finer hairs around the front hairline and temples. Apply lightener to these areas last.

Medium hair

Medium hair feels thicker than fine hair due to a wider diameter. We recommend 20-vol. developer for most applications. 30 to 40-vol. developer can be used off-scalp if the hair is healthy.

STRAND TEST*

Coarse hair

Thicker in diameter, similar to yarn and requires 20-vol. for on-scalp all-over blonde styles. For off-scalp looks, you're free to use anything from 20- to 40-vol. developer.

A strand test is perfect anytime you want to achieve a new blonde. Follow the steps below to see how the hair handles the products before you lighten everywhere.

If the hair doesn't get as light as you like, try a second application.

*For

Mix a small amount of lightener and 20-vol. developer in a 1:2 ratio. Apply to a small, hidden section on the back of hair. Let is process for up to 50 minutes. Rinse, shampoo, and condition the section before checking your final result.

LIGHTENING

LIFTING THE NATURAL LEVEL

WHAT’S THE NATURAL LEVEL?

Find the level below that looks closest to the color of natural re-growth or root area. The corresponding number will be the “natural level.”

HOW LIGHT SHOULD YOU GO?

A base color is the dominate color or all over color before higlights or lowlights are applied. We recommend starting with a base level that is no more than 2 to 3 levels lighter than the natural level. This will help ease the transition to a lighter color and avoid any potential hair color disasters.

Additional lightening can be achieved with a highlighting or ombré technique.

Example: If the hair is naturally Light Brown/Level 4, then we recommend aiming for a base color between Lightest Brown/Level 5 and Medium Blonde/Level 7.

LIGHTENERS

Multi-use, extra strength, dedusted powder lightener

• On and Off-scalp services

• Up to 9 levels of lift

• Non-pigmented powder allows for clear visibility of lift during lightening.

• Lifts past the brass for bright, clear, even results

• Vegan*

KALEIDOCOLORS

Great for foiling, balayage, freehand, highlighting and all creative lightening techniques

BLUE

• Clay-based tonal powder lightener

• For use on naturally dark hair only (black to light brown)

• Up to 6 levels of lift**

VIOLET

• Clay-based tonal powder lightener

• For use on light hair, (light brown to light blonde)

• Up to 6 levels of lift**

CLEAR ICE

• Clay-based tonal powder lightener

• For use on all hair starting levels

• Up to 6 levels of lift**

BW2+

BW2+: An Improved Evolution to our Trusted Lightener

Your best blonde just got even better. All of the benefits you know and love from our trusted lightener, now with even more benefits for better results. We’ve phased out of Basic White and BW2 to bring you BW2+, our extra strength lightener with up to 9 levels of lift and easy application both on and off scalp.

• Multi-purpose extra strength powder lightener

• Up to 9 Levels of Lift

• Easy application both on- and off-scalp

• Use for color correction, highlighting and foiling services

MIXING GUIDE

On-Scalp Application

Mix with 1:1.5 - 2 parts with Clairol Professional 10 or 20-volume developer.

Off-Scalp Application

Mix with 1:1.5 – 2 parts with Clairol Professional 10, 20, 30 or 40-volume Developer

APPLICATION

Apply BW2+ on or off-scalp in any lightening technique such as balayage, foiling & ombre.

RETOUCH APPLICATION

Apply only to areas that have not been previously lightened.

TIMING

Process up to 50 minutes, checking every 5-10 minutes for desired lightness NO HEAT

KALEIDOCOLORS

Tonal powder lightener for off-scalp services

BLUE

• Clay-Based tonal powder lightener

• Used for foiling, balayage and all off-scalp applications

• Lifts and tones in 1 step

• Controls unwanted orange tones

• Up to 6 levels of lift*

MIXING GUIDE

MIXING RATIO 1:2

TIMING

Process up to 50 minutes, checking every 5-10 minutes for desired lightness

1 part lightener + 2 parts developer

FOR DARK HAIR ONLY

VIOLET

• Clay-Based tonal powder lightener

• Used for Foiling, Balayage and all Off-scalp applications

• Lifts and tones in 1 step

• Controls unwanted yellow tones

• Up to 6 levels of lift*

MIXING GUIDE

MIXING RATIO 1:2

1 part lightener + 2 parts developer

CLEAR ICE

• Clay-Based clear powder lightener

• Used for Foiling, Balayage and all Off-scalp applications

• Up to 6 levels of lift*

MIXING GUIDE

MIXING RATIO 1:2

1 part lightener + 2 parts developer

TIMING

Process up to 50 minutes, checking every 5-10 minutes for desired lightness

FOR LIGHT HAIR ONLY

TIMING

Process up to 50 minutes, checking every 5-10 minutes for desired lightness FOR ALL STARTING LEVELS

*When using 40-vol. developer

CHOOSING YOUR DEVELOPER

Find the level that is the closest to the natural color at the scalp. The corresponding number is the “natural level.”

Match the swatch below with the level you want. Count from the “natural level” up to your desired shade to find how many levels you need to lift.

EXAMPLE:

If the natural level is a 3 and you want a light blonde (level 8), then you will need to lift 5 levels

ON-SCALP APPLICATION

ALL-OVER BLONDE AND TONING

Use 10 vol for gentle lightening or 20 vol for standard lightening

OFF-SCALP APPLICATION

FACE-FRAMING, HIGHLIGHTS, OMBRÉ, BALAYAGE

Use 20 to 40-vol. developer depending on how light you want to go and the strength of the hair.

YOUR DEVELOPER Second application if needed GENTLE LIGHTENING

LIGHTENING

CONSULTATION GUIDE

Prior to starting your service, you should consult with your client and ensure their hair is ready. Use this guide to help you through your consultation for optimal results! Fill in the circles to track your answers.

All-Over Blonde

Face-Framing or Highlights

Balayage Ombré

What level would they like to achieve?

Determine their natural level.

Determine the levels of lift needed by subtracting their natural level from the level they’ds like to achieve.

PLAN THE TIME YOU NEED TO LIGHTEN THE HAIR

More than a day? Hours

05 WILL YOU NEED TO APPLY ON-SCALP OR OFF-SCALP?

On-Scalp No Yes

Off-Scalp

Do they need two applications (more product) to achieve the desired level of lightness ? See chart to the right "Choosing Your Developer"

05 WHAT STRENGTH OF DEVELOPER WILL YOU USE?

On-Scalp Off-Scalp only Off-Scalp only 40-vol. developer 30-vol. developer 20-vol. developer

PRO TIP

If the hair doesn’t reach the level of blonde you are looking for and it still feels strong, it’s okay to start over! Just rinse, gently shampoo, and dry before reapplying your mix of BW2+ Lightener and 10 or 20-vol. Clairol Professional Cream Developer. Process again, but no longer than 30-50 minutes

Check every 5-10 minutes until the hair reaches the desired level. For a cool blonde, lighten hair to a pale yellow. For a warm blonde, lighten hair to a light yellow. Rinse, shampoo, and apply the appropriate toner.

TONING

While lightener lifts hair to a desired level of lightness, toners create the perfect blonde shade (warm/cool/ neutral). Lightened hair can appear raw or “brassy”. Toners are used to neutralize unwanted pigment that can make hair look brassy. Using a toner will create soft, natural-looking results.

CHOOSE A TONER FORMULA BASED ON YOUR DESIRED RESULT

DESIRED RESULT

FORMULA

APPLICATION & TIMING

Apply on shampooed and towel-dried hair. Process for up to 25 minutes

Check the results every 5 minutes Shampoo with Shimmer Lights Blonde Toning Shampoo.

Apply on shampooed and towel-dried hair. Cover hair with a plastic cap and process for up to 25 minutes

Check the results every 5 minutes

Rinse and condition, but do not shampoo.

Apply on shampooed and towel-dried hair. Cover hair with a plastic cap and process for up to 25 minutes

Check the results every 5 minutes Rinse and condition, but do not shampoo.

Apply on shampooed and towel-dried hair. Process for up to 25 minutes

Check the results every 5 minutes Lightly shampoo and condition.

Natural Blonde

Beautiful Collection B01N Light Natural Blonde

Cool, Ash Blonde

Caramel Blonde

SHIMMER LIGHTS CARE

When it comes to blondes, we’ve got you covered. Shimmer Lights award-winning, colorenhancing care has everything you need to moisturize and neutralize unwanted brass.

SHIMMER LIGHTS SHAMPOO

Brighten and refresh your blonde, highlighted, or silver hair with Shimmer Lights Blonde Toning Shampoo. This color-enhancing shampoo utilizes purple pigments to reduce brass for cool blonde tones.

USAGE: Twice weekly or as needed to remove unwanted brass.

SHIMMER LIGHTS CONDITIONER

Restore manageability and add volume to vour blonde, highlighted or silver hair while reducing brass for refreshed, cool tones with Shimmer Lights Blonde Toning Conditioner.

USAGE: After Blonde Toning Shampoo, use twice weekly or as needed to remove unwanted brass.

VIOLET TONING MASK

Deeply condition your pre-lightened, naturally blonde or silver hair with Shimmer Lights Blonde Toning Mask. Formulated with lavender extract, jojoba, coconut and argan oils, this mask reduces brass for cool tones while nourishing and detangling hair.

USAGE: Once a week and leave on for 5 minutes before rinsing for deep conditioning

NOTES

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