Magazine The Jeweller´s Art - DIVA Antwerp - English

DIVA, museum for diamonds, jewellery and silver 30.10.2020 - 14.03.2021

Revolutionary jewellery from the 60s and 70s

youthful rebellion

radical cultural change

THE JEWELLER’S ART REVOLUTIONARY JEWELLERY 1960 & 1970

DIVA, MUSEUM FOR DIAMONDS, JEWELLERY AND SILVER WITH LIGHT INSTALLATION OF CHILDREN OF THE LIGHT & SPACE ENCOUNTERS SUIKERRUI 17 – 19, 2000 ANTWERP WWW.DIVAANTWERP.BE

V . U . E V A O L D E M O N N I K H O F, S U I K E R R U I 1 7 – 1 9 , 2 0 0 0 A N T W E R P E N / D E S I G N : C H I L D R E N O F T H E L I G H T

EXPO 30.10.2020 – 14.03.2021

this issue: from now till 14th of march 2021

Eva Olde Monnikhof

The new must see exhibition at museum DIVA

The Art of Fashion and Jewellery

by Cynthia AmnĂŠus Curator of Fashion Arts and Textiles at Cincinnati Art Museum an interview with:

Kimberly Klosterman Get tickets online:

!

divaantwerp.be Address:

Suikerrui 17-19 Antwerpen in the

city center!

Art Jewellery swinging sixties & seventies youth culture

James Bond

Twiggy

the Beatles

miniskirt

feminism

futurism

space age popart

The new exhibition The Jeweller’s Art in the museum DIVA brings together more than 100 pieces of jewellery from the 1960s and 70s.

Pieces that are still different and innovative today. The shapes, the colours, the materials: ever since the 60s and 70s, anything goes in art jewellery.

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The very term ‘art jewellery’ stems from that period. Goldsmiths went from being craftsmen to artists and those artists looked to their counterparts in contemporary art. Minimal art, conceptual art, performance art, but happening and hyperrealism also influenced the work of goldsmiths as they reacted to daily life. One of the art movements, Pop Art, even elevated every-day life and commonplace objects to art. Who doesn’t know Andy Warhol’s soup cans?

The struggle for equality, also infiltrated the art and design of the 60s and 70s. Advances in technology, prompted partly by the race between the United States and the Soviet Union for the first moon landing, were another source of inspiration.

These multiple influences, innovations and social changes are still tangible today and in many cases still relevant. The Jeweller’s Art exhibition, organized by the Cincinnati Art Museum and produced

by DIVA, sets out to capture the spirt of the swinging 60s and 70s and to make it current. With fashion, design, newspaper articles, films – and, if it was up to me, also fragrances (Patchoeli) and Martinis (“shaken, not stirred”) – but above all with art.

As part of the exhibition, a site-specific artwork has been created by contemporary designers Children of the Light and Space Encounters, which engages in dialogue with the objects of fellow artists: the goldsmiths of the 1960s and 70s. An installation that launches visitors into the space age and also shows that design from that era is still innovative, refreshing and relevant today.

“So I would like to invite you to step back into those heady times and lose yourself in the world of art jewellery. And don’t forget to wear your bell bottoms.”

Eva Olde Monnikhof • Director of DIVA

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The Art of Fashion and Jewellery Cynthia Amnéus, Curator of Fashion Arts and Textiles at Cincinnati Art Museum

Simply put, jewellery of the 1960s and 1970s was revolutionary.

Just as the previous decade was demure and controlled, the 1960s became an era of youthful rebellion and radical cultural change.

Both cutting-edge fashions and a new style of jewellery was part of that zeitgeist. Rock ’n’ roll, the Vietnam War, the civil rights and women’s movements, the widespread use of hallucinogenic drugs, and the concept of free love are all associated with these tumultuous decades. Like fashion of the period, jewellery expressed individuality, nonconformity and the aesthetic, political, and intellectual values of the person who wore it.

As early as the mid-1950s, young British jewellers began experimenting with new forms. This budding generation was finding different ways to express themselves that defied traditional practices, incorporating more artistic and conceptual approaches into their work.

Their direction was encouraged by the 1961 International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery 1890-1961 curated by Graham Hughes, the art director of London’s Goldsmiths’ Hall. Including historical pieces alongside the contemporary, and drawn from international sources, this display brought the innovative movement in jewellery design to the fore.> 4

BUY YOUR TICKETS AT : DIVAANTW ERP.BE

ROGER LUCAS

ring, for Car tier ca. 1969 gold, diamon d, emerald, ruby , sapphire, tu rquoise

Popular magazines and newspapers were awash with articles about the latest fashions and this transformation in jewellery design. In the early years of the 1960s, the American publication National Jeweler viewed jewellery only as an accent, an accessory for fashion. But in April 1966, forward-thinking jeweller and gemmologist Barbara Anton became a regular columnist for the periodical. She impressed upon readers that jewellery should be restored “to its rightful place as a work of art.” In the lingo of the period, she wrote, “Don’t be afraid of being too far-out”. By the end of the 1960s, National Jeweler was celebrating what they called fashion jewellery, maintaining that clothes were no more ornamental than jewels.

“Don’t be afraid of being too far-out” These revolutionary jewellers served a growing elite called the ‘jet set’—socialites and celebrities who frequently travelled internationally for business and pleasure. Wealthy and on the leading edge, these individuals had an interest in the avant-garde and the means to buy fine modern jewellery. Because this new style of ornament was generally set with semiprecious gems, individuals felt comfortable travelling with it. Examples that could be worn as a single piece or separated into various parts were especially appealing. Easily packed into a suitcase, convertible pieces expanded a traveller’s jewellery wardrobe, as they could be worn to various events, appearing to be different depending on how they were arranged and what they were worn with.> 6

“Both fashion and jewellery became a reflection of the individual”

Charles de Temple (°1929) • United States, worked in United Kingdom • necklace late 1970s • gold, diamond, garnet

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Walter Schluep bracelet • 1971 • gold, resin

buy your tickets at: www.divaantwerp.be

Like women’s dress, menswear underwent a similarly profound transformation in the period, elevated from mere clothing to personal expression. Beginning in the late 1950s in London and through the 1970s, the ‘Peacock Revolution’ bloomed. Daring to be different, young men adopted Nehru and collarless jackets along with sheer chiffon shirts and furs. Cravats and turtlenecks replaced ties, and men wore more colours and patterns. Popular unisex clothing signalled an open-mindedness to new modes. In the early 1960s, more jewellery was being worn by European men, which contributed to its acceptance in the United States. Large rings and bracelets as well as modern watches and cuff links became popular for the cosmopolitan male, but long chains and pendant necklaces were de rigueur. Necklaces became gender-neutral, looking exactly the same whether made for a woman or a man.

Instigated by a desire for youthful freedom, the 1960s and 1970s were a time of experimentation that rejected the traditions of the previous generation. Young women wore this jewellery with their miniskirts, brightly coloured tights, and go-go boots, while others displayed it with their designer gowns or high-end caftans.

Men, wearing brighter colours and tighter trousers, donned an overabundance of jewellery far exceeding the usual functional watch and plain wedding band of previous decades. Buying jewellery became a search for a single piece that was right for the person, rather than conforming to a tradition. Modern designs fit with a new way of living and dressing that was individual, unconventional, faster and freer. Both fashion and jewellery became a reflection of the individual.

Do you want to read the full essay?

Buy the catalogue C. Amnéus et al., Simply Brilliant, Lewes 2020.

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an interview with

Kim berly Kloster man Kimberly Klosterman is the grande dame behind the jewellery collection that is currently on show in DIVA. She has been collecting jewellery since 1996 and is proud owner of a big, wonderful and specialized collection of jewellery. DIVA had a digital conversation with Kimberly about her passion for jewellery, why she started collecting and the designers and jewellery in her collection.

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“I’m a natural redhead. There are only two percent of us in the world.

Any redhead will tell you we march to the beat of a different drummer.”

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Early collecting For Kimberly collecting is in her DNA. “My grandfather collected classical record albums, my father has one of the world’s most important collections of magic, my husband has a vast collection of minimal and conceptual art from the 1960s and 70s. As a child I remember declaring that I wanted to build an important collection of something. Jewellery became a natural choice for me.

I don’t remember a time when I was not attracted to it.”

The attraction to jewellery led to a serious and well-known collection.

“I had started to buy some very nice jewels in the late 1980s, from Art deco to 1950s jewellery. In 1996 I took a sabbatical from my family baking business to travel to Europe with my husband. We had both previously been students at Sotheby’s auction house, so I looked into the curriculum there and was pleased to discover the Understanding Jewellery course. It was here that I was exposed to the wonderful world of the 1960s and 1970s artist-jewellers. Under the tutelage of my dear friend and teacher Amanda Triossi, I was not only introduced to works by Andrew Grima, but also had the good fortune of meeting the man himself. I think the rest is history.”

“The unusual materials used by the artist-jewellers of the 1960s and 1970s never cease to amaze me. I love the juxtaposition of a meteorite with polished diamonds or of an ancient fossil with pearls.

These are all primordial earthy materials, preserved in their natural state over a long time. I am a Virgo and if there’s anything I relate to about my sign it’s my connection to the earth.”>

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ring • 1978 • gold, citrine

now show n at

DIV A!

Wearing jewellery Kimberly wears this magnificent jewellery too, preferably to special occasions. “But dressing has changed so dramatically that I don’t have the opportunity like in the old days, when black tie events happened almost weekly. It’s still fun to wear something over the top with jeans though.”

“I was very fond of fashion as a teenager. My grandmother had loads of fashion magazines that I would pore over, and when I started college my first major was fashion design. She also loved jewellery.

I used to borrow her clothes and jewels regularly. Oh, and do you know the ABBA song Dancing Queen? I was at the disco four nights a week. And yes, I was just 17.” “I tend to mix different styles of jewellery and wear them together. I like to add something unexpected, like wearing a couple of art deco diamond bracelets with a bangle in the middle and adding a really crazy 70s ring.”

About the collection “I really respect all the jewellers in my collection. The ones I have met are Lisa Sotilis, Roger Lucas, Thierry Vendome, Gerda Flöckinger, the Grimas, and others. They have been super fun to speak with and get me incredibly excited. But I think some of my favourite pieces come from the house of Masenza. There is something about how their workshops translate the artist’s intent into gold. Mario Masenza understood the relationship of the material to the human form, and although most of his pieces are a bit early for this exhibition, they’re really seminal to how these other jewellers transform what could have become cumbersome into a very wearable jewel.”

“At the moment I have about 450 pieces total in the collection.

A lot are not from the 1960s & 1970s period. I love ancient and tribal jewellery, jewellery by artists like the Pomodoros, or Arp, and I even have a small collection of portrait cameos.”

“If I could stop buying? I have tried, one day at a time.

Is there a 12 step programme for this?”>

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Eric de Kolb

pendant • 1970s • gold, abalone shell shown @ DIVA museum for diamonds, jewellery and silver Suikerrui 17-19 Antwerp

Jean Vendome (1930-2017) • France Collier Veracruz, necklace • 1972 white gold, platinum, amethyst, diamond

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“It is not to leave France!”

“Let me tell a little story about one jewel: Thierry Vendome was surprised that I ended up with his father’s piece – the purple one in the exhibition. He told me it was a masterpiece. Jean Vendome made the necklace Collier Veracruz around the time when he was involved with Roger Caillois, the French writer and philosopher who commissioned Vendome for his Académie française symbolic sword. Caillois, an avid collector of unusual stones, shared this love with Vendome and the two became great friends. When Jean told Roger that an American women was interested in purchasing the necklace, Caillois forbade it: “It is not to leave France”. So, talked out of a hefty sale, Jean Vendome kept the necklace in Paris for a few years, until he was in a major car crash. Sadly, the need for money became imminent and Thierry’s mother sold the necklace to the American collector.”

“Fast forward: Virginia Salem at Freeman’s auction house phoned to alert me that this unusual jewel would be coming up for sale.

Luckily, I happened to be in Manhattan, a short drive by American standards to Philadelphia where the auction was to take place.

The piece was amazing! I vowed to get it at all costs. It sold for about ten times the estimate, but it is a purchase I’m supremely happy to have made. We still have not been able to find the name of the ‘American collector’. I hope this exhibition may shed some light on this.”

“I’m amazed, humbled and thrilled that my collection is presented in an internationally travelling exhibition! When I started my business, it was in Amsterdam in 1996, I had a few clients, a few connections, so I made my first jewellery dealer friends in Europe and the UK.” “I love Antwerp and I hope to develop a connection with the city.

My husband Michael and I were just fantasizing about an amazing flat furnished by Axel Vervoordt.

My surname is Klosterman, after all!”

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500 years of craftsmanship

From the sixteenth century onwards, Grote Markt and the surrounding streets in Antwerp were the place to buy silver, gold and precious stones. Anyone with a predilection for brilliant luxury was inevitably drawn to the window displays of the jewellers and silver and goldsmiths in this neighbourhood.

At the moment one in six creative entrepreneurs is established in Antwerp.

The city is a breeding ground where talent lives, works and thrives. Moreover, Antwerp is the diamond world centre so it will come as no surprise that talented designers are quite skilled when it comes to turning precious stones and metals into unique items of jewellery.

Antwerp’s Most Brilliant

If you are looking for something different, unique or extraordinary, we are certain that you will find it in Antwerp. Antwerp’s Most Brilliant, the quality certificate of the City of Antwerp and the World Diamond Centre, will point you in the right direction.

This certificate is awarded to jewellers who meet the rigorous quality requirements. Thanks to this label you can buy jewellery confidently.

Noortje Palmers

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Colman Jewelry & Watches

Joaillerie Du Centre

JUWELIER SLAETS De Keyserlei 46-48, 2018 / Schuttershofstraat 30b, 2000 Antwerp www.slaets.eu

ADELIN Steenhouwersvest 43, 2000 Antwerp www.adelin.be ADIN Vestingstraat 16, 2018 Antwerp www.antiekejuwelen.com

NADINE WIJNANTS Kloosterstraat 26, 2000 Antwerp www.nadinewijnants.be

COLMAN JEWELRY & WATCHES Eiermarkt 7, 2000 Antwerp www.colman.be DIAMANI JEWELS Pelikaanstraat 66, 2018 Antwerp www.diamani.com DIAMOND BLUE Vestingstraat 77, 2018 Antwerp www.tomjewelry.be

GERHILD KIRCHNER Oude Koornmarkt 51, 2000 Antwerp www.gerhildkirchner.be I.MA.GI.N. JEWELS Steenhouwersvest 11, 2000 Antwerp www.imaginjewels.com JOAILLERIE DU CENTRE Vestingstraat 14, 2018 Antwerp www.jewelsdc.be JUWELEN HENRI DOM Vestingstraat 53, 2018 Antwerp www.parelsdom.be JUWELEN OROGEM Vestingstraat 38, 2018 Antwerp www.juwelenorogem.be JUWELENHUIS RUYS Sint-Jorispoort 26, 2000 Antwerp www.ruys.be

NICO TAEYMANS Steenhouwersvest 17, 2000 Antwerp www.nicotaeymans.be

ORIANE DIAMONDS Suikerrui 13–15, 2000 Antwerp www.tomjewelry.be ORSINI DIAMONDS De Keyserlei 32, 2018 Antwerp www.orsinidiamonds.com RAYJO Rijfstraat 6, 2018 Antwerp www.rayjo.be REMBRANDT JORDAN Wijngaardstraat 18, 2000 Antwerp www.rembrandtjordan.com RÖELL JEWELLERY Empire Shopping Center Boutique 8+9 Appelmansstraat 25, 2018 Antwerp www.roell.be RUDIAM Appelmansstraat 8, 2018 Antwerp www.rudiam.be VAN DER VEKEN JUWELIERS Vestingstraat 42, 2018 Antwerp www.vandervekenjuweliers.be WOUTERS & HENDRIX Steenhouwersvest 52, 2000 Antwerp www.wouters-hendrix.com

www.antwerpsmostbrilliant.be 19

About DIVA

Access

DIVA is the museum for diamonds, jewellery and silver in Antwerp. Step inside for an unforgettable journey through the rich history of diamonds and silversmithing in Antwerp and learn all about the trade and consumption of the ultimate luxury goods and the skills involved in making them.

DIVA is wheelchair-friendly and accessible for people with reduced mobility and those with a visual and/or hearing impairment.

Atelier DIVA

DIVAantwerp

Whether you are a jewellery and silversmithing specialist or an enthusiastic amateur, you are welcome at Atelier DIVA! For the specialists, we hold masterclasses on specific techniques, old and new.

For those with little or no knowledge or experience of jewellery and silver, we run a range of workshops and summer ateliers throughout the year.

DIVA library

For all those looking to gain a better understanding of diamonds jewellery and silver, or to marvel at the Special Collections, welcome to the museum library.

Take a seat in the reading room, go through our magazines or consult our physical and digital resources. Check the website for the opening times and follow us on instagram.

Follow us DIVA.ANTWERP

Share your experience #DIVAantwerp

Tickets

Buy your ticket online at www.divaantwerp.be.

The entrance ticket entitles you to visit the museum’s permanent collection and its special exhibitions.

Adults: €12 Concessions: €7 - 26 years old: €7 - 12 years old free Go to www.divaantwerp.be for special promotions and information for pass-holders.

Where to find us

DIVA is located right in the heart of Antwerp’s historic centre and yet just a short walk from the quays. This makes the museum easy to reach by bicycle, water bus, public transport and car as well as on foot.

DIVA is open every day from 10 to 18.00 hrs, except on Wednesdays.

DIVA, Suikerrui 17-19, 2000 Antwerp Questions? Email us at info@divaantwerp.be or phone us on +32 (0)3 360 52 52

DIVA has put together a packed programme for young and old.

Go to our website www.divaantwerp.be/agenda for the latest information.

Tickets should be booked in advance via the web shop.

You can also sign up for our monthly newsletter and follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

Chaumet INTERCHANGEABLE RING

at DIVA museum for diamonds, jewellery and silver in Antwerp

D I V A

A N T W E R P

P R E S E N T S

ring - ca. 1975 gold, coral

DIVA agenda 2020 - 2021 25.10.2020 – 6.12.2020

Exhibition / The Art of Chasing If you would like to know more about the technique of chasing, why not pop along on the first floor of the museum? This is a wonderful opportunity to learn all about this extraordinary technique for shaping precious metal and applying decoration, which these days few practise professionally.

Price: free

30.10.2020 - 14.03.2021

Exhibition / The Jeweller´s Art Be transported back to the swinging 60s and 70s and tune into the jewellery, fashion, design and music from that vibrant period!

Price: included in your entrance ticket

ON-GOING

Exhibition / DIVA, A Brilliant Story DIVA’s permanent collection is brought to life in six rooms, each of which tells a story. Journey through 500 years of craftsmanship and marvel at DIVA´s brilliant collection.

Price: included in your entrance ticket

25.10.2020

DIVA talk / Patrick Storme on The Art of Chasing.

In this talk Patrick Storme will share his expertise on the chasing technique, using some of his own work to demonstrate it.

Price: €5 (€3 concessions) Start: 11.00 hrs

31.10.2020 – 4.11.2020

Workshop: Chasing masterclass led

by Patrick Storme sign up: fully booked

ON-GOING

Guided tour / The Jeweller´s Art with your very own guide How about bringing a group of friends with you to The Jeweller´s Art exhibition, or perhaps you’d you prefer to come alone or with your partner? The choice is yours. You can book a group with a guide from €15 per person, including entrance ticket. Maximum 9 people per guide. More than 9 people? Head over to our website and check group visits.

8.11.2020 - 13.12.2020 10.01.2021 - 14.02.2021

Guided tour / DIVA Deluxe in The Jeweller´s Art Price: €2 in addition to your entrance ticket Start: 14.00 hrs

7.11.2020 - 12.12.2020 22.12.2020 - 2.01.2021

Guided family tour / DIVA Mysteries in The Jeweller´s Art Price: €5 in addition to your entrance ticket Start: 14.30 hrs

15.11.2020

Guided family tour: Arts Day for Children Price: included in your entrance ticket, children free Start: 11.00 and 14.00 hrs

ON-GOING

Guided tour / Group visit for the blind and visually impaired Price: free (not included: entrance to museum)

Colophon

DIVA, Antwerp 30.10.2020 - 14.03.2021

This exhibition is organized by the Cincinnati Art Museum, Cincinnati, Ohio and produced by DIVA, museum for diamonds, jewellery and silver, Antwerp, Belgium board of directors Nabilla Ait Daoud, Yolande Avondroodt, Lebuin D’Haese, Omar Fahti, Luk Lemmens, Bartold Maréchal, Koen Palinckx, Tatjana Scheck, Annelies Thoelen

with the support of: Stad Antwerpen, Toerisme Vlaanderen, AWDC, Umicore, Shanghai Diamond Exchange

management board Yannick Bochem, Lies Buyse, Isabelle Hernould, Milan Rutten, Wim Van Damme curator DIVA: Catherine Regout exhibition design: Space Encounters technical production: Marie Vandecasteele build up: Planemos light installation:Space Encounters & Children of the Light texts: Cynthia Amnéus , Catherine Regout copy editing: An Labis, Leonie Maerevoet translations: Alison Mouthaan, Martine Bom lighting: Chris Pype concept & design brochures: Jurgen Flick (OVERBUREN) DIVA Team director:Eva Olde Monnikhof exhibitions: Leonie Maerevoet, Catherine Regout, Marie Vandecasteele collection: Arendine Martens, Wim Nys, Carl de Smit, Kristina Valiulis, Vincent Van Beek, Ann Verbecque communication and public activities: Els Crollet, Tom Iriks, Suzanne de Lange, Leen Thielemans library: An Labis, Michelle Suykerbuyk, Giacomo Visini strategy & public relations: Martine Nieuwenhuysen, Kelly de Rybel - van Campenhout, Daniëlle Serré, Wim Verhulst logistics: Eduard Backelant, Stéphane Keersmaekers front desk: Katelijne Decraene, Maaike Delsaerdt, Raphaël Lauwers, Soun Liekens, Lieve Van Looveren security: Marc Brosens, Annemie De Meester, Patrick Dhondt, Walter Geldolf, Henk van Genderen, Gert Govaerts, Vanessa Gruda, Maria Janssens, Raf Lippens, Ronny Mewis, Marianne Scholten, Ilse Van De Weyer, Sven Wendrickx

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with special thanks to: PJ Grimm Annabelle Hermans David Huycke Kimberly Klosterman Els Minne Annelies Wylleman lenders: Artifort Hans Boodt Cincinnati Art Museum Laura Dols Guild Merchant BV Kunstconsult KMSKA MoMu Antwerpen All jewels are from the Kimberly Klosterman collection, unless stated otherwise.

Images © DIVA, Cincinnati Art Museum, Kimberly Klosterman / Photographers: Dominique Provost, Tony Walsh, Kimberly Klosterman © 2020 DIVA for this publication, all rights reserved publisher: Eva Olde Monnikhof, director DIVA, Gildekamersstraat 9, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium D/2020/14.608/6 Disclaimer: DIVA has endeavoured to settle all image rights in accordance with existing legislation. Should you wish to lay claim to image rights, please contact the publisher.