D-Brief Edition 23 - Jewellery

D-Brief

Edition 23

Jewellery

D-Brief Bangkok, 30 July 2012

Dear Partners, In this edition of D-Brief we take you on a journey of discovery through China, Tibet and Thailand to explore the origin of some of the world‟s most famous stones. Gems, gold and silver have been used for generations to make beautiful and intricate pieces of jewellery.

We look at Tibetan turquoise and how it‟s used in both spiritual and decorative ways, the love of jade in China and Thailand‟s position as the world leader in the cutting and setting of semi-precious stones.

We will reveal these and other interesting facts about jewellery in this month‟s D-Brief.

Without a doubt, you will be inspired when looking to buy your precious souvenirs.

Sincerely,

Your Diethelm Travel Team

Jewellery As far as history can be traced, man has always had a fascination with gems and precious stones. Hailed as a gift from the gods and designed as an object of wealth and status, throughout Asia, these stones have been used to make elaborate jewellery, playing a significant part in molding rituals, traditions and beliefs.

We have selected three widely recognised stones from Tibet, China and Thailand to showcase in the coming pages.

Turquoise is one of Turquoise the oldest amulets Tibetan known to man and a symbol of wealth and protection in several ancient cultures. In Tibetan culture, craftsman use turquoise to make intricate jewellery and ornaments, combined with copper and silver, which they believe will bring them wealth, spiritual harmony and most of all good health.

Chinese Jade Synonymous with China and probably one of the best known materials used to make Chinese jewellery, jade has an important place in Chinese beliefs and traditions. „Soft, smooth and glossy, it appeared to them like benevolence; fine, compact and strong – like intelligence‟

Confucius 551 - 479 B.C

Thailand’s Gems Thailand has earned a reputation as one of the world‟s major gems and jewellery centres. The combination of skilled artisans and large gemstone resources makes Thailand the perfect choice when looking to invest in a beautiful and unique piece of jewellery. We guide you through identifying the quality of gems you may be looking to buy and where to shop with peace of mind.

Turquoise Turquoise was reported to be one of the first mined gemstones, dating back to 6000 B.C in Egypt‟s Sinai Peninsula.

In ancient times, civilisations such as the Egyptians, Mongolians and Tibetans all highly valued the properties and beauty of this gemstone. It‟s said that turquoise found its way to Tibet via the Himalayas across old trading routes, originating in the Middle East.

Turquoise chemically is a hydrated phosphate made up of copper and aluminium, formed by the levels of ground water seeping through aluminous rock where copper can be found. Its intense colours can often be mottled with veins of black manganese oxide, making the surface of the stone appear to look like a spider‟s web. In certain parts of the world this marbling is considered an imperfection, but in China and Tibet it‟s seen as a thing of beauty.

This relatively soft stone covers a wide range of shades of blues and greens depending on its composition. Green shades occur as a result of the chromium content, blues to blue-greens on the copper content and the yellow-green shades on the levels of iron present in the stone.

Eighty percent of all turquoise on the world market today originates in either China or Tibet. Turquoise has been mined in this part of Asia and captivated man for centuries.

This gemstone has been an integral part in the culture of the people of the Himalayas for thousands of years and Tibetan turquoise is considered to be revered for its spiritual and metaphysical properties.

Tibetan Turquoise Turquoise in Tibet comes from four main sources with the best quality stones coming from an area in the Gangschan Mountains of western Tibet. Another area is between Lhasa, the capital, and the border with China near Chambo.

Commonly, turquoise in Tibet is bluish-green in colour and can be combined with coral, as Tibetans believe red coral and turquoise are at opposite ends of the colour spectrum and therefore a perfect balance in colour.

These people‟s lives are influenced by colour, which they believe has an effect on the way one thinks and feels in one‟s daily life.

Almost all Tibetans wear a piece of this beautiful stone in some form on their person, as it is believed to be the most spiritual and religious gem for Tibetans. Turquoise is regarded as the „sky stone‟, sent to earth by heaven and its religious significance dates back to around 1000 B.C or earlier, according to Tibetan scriptures.

Tibetan beliefs This gemstone plays a significant role in every day life for Tibetan people and is worshiped for its beauty and spiritual values, as part of their spiritual life.

Children in Tibet are given a piece of turquoise jewellery when they are young by their family and as they grow older, they keep trading their jewellery for larger and more beautiful pieces. They believe the bigger the piece of turquoise, the higher the quality and in turn, the increased power the turquoise has for them.

Tibetans appreciate turquoise not only for investing family wealth but also for the significant ritual and medicinal powers itâ€&#x;s said to possess. Itâ€&#x;s very important for Tibetans to have their turquoise remain in a natural state as they believe once altered, the turquoise no longer possesses its metaphysical powers and will not be in harmony with the spirits and the human body. Roughly cut and or set in silver are the preferred options in Tibetan culture.

Wearing the stone In Tibet, most people wear a piece of jewellery or a pouch containing a piece of Tibetan turquoise and adorn their homes with bells, prayer-wheels or other artefacts which are inlaid with turquoise.

Coral being used as a gem alongside Tibetan turquoise in jewellery-making dates back to prehistoric times and is one of the seven treasures in Buddhist scriptures. Itâ€&#x;s believed that a piece of jewellery containing both turquoise and coral is the perfect colour contrasting combination, bringing its wearer balance and well-being.

Healing energy is said to radiate from turquoise and enhances oneâ€&#x;s optimism and positive thinking.

Whatever your beliefs might be, if you wear a piece of turquoise jewellery, simply admire it for its beauty and the stone will no doubt bring you many years of enjoyment.

Handy tips • As a rule of thumb when buying turquoise jewellery, regardless whether its in a boutique jeweller or a local market in Lhasa, prices will be reflected in the quality.

• It‟s said that the most valuable stones are a natural intense blue, followed by lighter blue stones and the most common being green shades with black veins running through the surface.

• For something authentically Tibetan, opt for a deep blue stone, set in solid silver with bright red coral inlay.

• For maintenance, the stone must be handled with care, avoiding too much exposure for prolonged periods to direct light. As with many other natural stones and metals, perfume, body creams and cosmetics can deteriorate the turquoises‟ lustre.

Polish it gently with a soft dry cloth after wearing and store in a cool dry place.

Jade The history of jade is as old as the Chinese civilization itself. Used in the making of decorative pottery, handles for utensils, sharpened as a blade for a weapon, intricately carved as ornaments for decoration and of course jewellery for a sign of opulence; jade in Chinese is pronounced „yu‟, which translates as purity, virtue and beauty.

Jade is most commonly categorised in two forms, namely jadeite and nephrite.

Both variations are a tough stone, chip resistant and have a medium to high surface polish.

Jadeite‟s (hard jade) colours range from green to white to lavender to yellow, orange, red or black. It‟s the rarest and most expensive form of jade, which is predominantly found in Burma. This type of jade is referred to as „Imperial Jade‟.

Jadeite is a translucent green shade and was mostly used for royal artefacts and nobility.

Nephrite (soft jade) is the most common variety that exists and is considerably less expensive than the jadeite variety with deposits being found all over the world.

Soft jade tends to have a colour range from a greyish-green or mottled effect to a deeper green.

Nephrite has a softer compound than jadeite, thus the finished product usually has a highly polished finish.

Looking out for the differences in the two forms of jade will help you identify the quality of the piece of jewellery and give you a „heads up‟ on if it should be regarded as a piece of costume jewellery or an investment buy.

Ancient customs Jade has always been the object most highly regarded by the Chinese. Dating back to ancient times, this tough, resilient and translucent stone has become synonymous with Chinese culture.

Chinese jade development can be traced as far back as 5000 B.C. Recent archaeological excavations in China have revealed not only the antiquity of the skill of carving the stone, but also the use of jade in ceremonial tomb burials for kings and nobility. The stone was regarded as just as powerful in death to these ancient people and they believed jade would protect the body from decay.

In later centuries, these burial rituals were less practiced and jade instead became synonymous with royalty, wealth and status. During both the Ming and Qing dynasties, ancient jade decorative patterns were replicated and reflected in these periodsâ€&#x; pottery, jewellery and ornaments where they drew inspiration from past great Chinese craftsman.

The Origins of Jade When studying the origins of jade used by ancient jewellery makers, we discovered that a trading route over 3000 years old and covering over 3000 kilometers existed in Southeast Asia.

Researchers from the Australian National University conducted excavation projects all over Southeast Asia and uncovered a pair of ancient jade earrings.

The archaeologists used an electron probe to establish the exact origin of the main jade supply used to make these earrings and their findings were traced back to Taiwan.

Itâ€&#x;s believed that the raw material was traded and carried by sea and land, thousands of kilometres away to what is modern day Thailand, Borneo and central Vietnam, to name a few.

This was the first time evidence was discovered to support speculation that such a large trading route did in fact exist in the region.

Jewellery made out of jade was used as a key barter on these routes of exploration and played a significant role in molding the history of this trading route.

Jade signifies The Chinese love jade not only for its beauty, but more importantly for its cultural significance.

Confucius, among other great wise men have likened jade to virtue and for them the stone‟s polish and vibrancy represents purity.

It‟s said that jade‟s compactness and extreme strength represent intelligence, its sharp angles represent justice and the pure sound it makes when struck represents music. The colour of jade signifies loyalty, its flaws always showing themselves mimics sincerity; its iridescent brightness is said to represent heaven; its composition born of mountain and water represents the earth. In its natural state, jade represents chastity, and the value the world attaches to jade represents the truth.

In Chinese culture there is a saying that translates to “Gold has a value; jade is invaluable”.

Handy tips • Look for a piece of jade which is uniform in colour.

• Semi-transparent, ranging to translucent jade is considered better quality and higher in value than opaque examples.

• Avoid ornaments and jewellery where the jade has many cracks or visible flaws as it lessens its value.

• Watch out for imitations – colour intensified nephrite is sometimes marketed as jadeite. If you are intending on spending a fair sum of money, it‟s recommended you purchase these items from reputable shops, where authenticity certificates can be provided.

• Overall the best advice we can give you is to not take it too seriously. Choose jewellery that you like and if you are not prepared to pay the price being asked, walk away!

Thailand’s Gem industry Bangkok is considered one of the worldâ€&#x;s prime markets when it comes to diamonds, gold, silver, platinum and precious stones such as rubies. Raw stones, cut stones and fully bespoke designed ready-to-wear jewellery is cut, set, sold and exported here.

These Thai masters are proficient in the heating process of gemstones. Heat treatments are mostly used on sapphires and rubies to remove a blue core which is considered an impurity.

Jewellery dealers from around the world frequent Chantaburi and Maesai where the two main markets are. Between the areas of Silom and Surawong in the heart of Bangkok, is the hub for manufacturing and wholesale jewellery.

Itâ€&#x;s a most delicate job and the secret is usually kept in the family and passed from father to son. One can imagine it could be a very expensive mistake if a precious stone worth thousands of dollars was overheated and destroyed. The Thai craftsman knows just the level of heat to apply to achieve the optimum results.

Thai craftsmen have become world famous for their skill in cutting and shaping stones ensuring they have the best shine and capture the light. This is only achieved with years of practice and as young apprentices watch and learn the precise techniques from the older generation of artisans.

Prices of gemstones in Thailand tend to be a lot cheaper than in other parts of the world. This is due to the fact that buyers of gems in Thailand buy in huge bulk and you as a customer, have the option to buy from wholesalers, both cut and uncut stones, saving on additional retail markups.

Grading your gems Buying gemstones is, without a doubt, much more difficult than buying gold or silver. There is not a weight index like with precious metals, each stone is unique and its worth only what someone may be willing to pay for it. Understanding some basic tips is essential to the successful purchase of a gemstone.

Regardless of the gem variety, there are common things to look for. The industry term is the 4 C‟s: clarity, colour, carat weight and cut.

Colour is the single most important C‟s of the grading guide and mostly the brighter the brilliance of the stone, the higher its value. The „hue‟ of the stone as its referred to is very much a personal preference, but naturally our eyes will be drawn to the closest „hue‟ to a block of colour such as red (ruby), green (emerald) and blue (sapphire).

The clarity is the most individual of the stone‟s traits and adds character and is what makes each gem unique. Most gemstones contain tiny, naturally occurring inclusions which are the stone‟s hallmark and indicates its authenticity. So, the higher the clarity the greater its value.

The three dimensions of color. Hues change as one goes around the wheel; tone changes in the vertical axis, with the lightest tones at the top, while saturation increases from the center out on the horizontal axis.

Source: www.thaigem.com

The cut is really important because the better the technique in cutting the stone, the brighter it shines and refracts light to enhance its brilliance in colour and clarity.

Carat weight is the term used to grade the size of the gem. The measurement term dates back to a traditional method used in trading markets around the Middle East for carob seeds. These seeds were seen as the closest tool to use in the unit of measurement as they are all a consistent size.

This ancient measurement guide evolved to what we use today to evaluate the carat weight of diamonds and precious gemstones. Of course, the larger the carat weight the greater the value, but prices really jump when a stone exceeds the 2 carat mark. Once a stone gets to this weight its rarity in size is reflected in the price you will pay. The larger the stone, the greater the potential to cut well and radiate light and attract oneâ€&#x;s eye.

GEMS Gallery Over the years we have seen a growing demand from our customers for our guidance when it comes to buying precious gems. For over a decade, Diethelm Travel Thailand has been in partnership with GEMS Gallery, where we advise visitors to shop for gemstones and jewellery when visiting Thailand.

Reliability in the world of gems is key.

GEMS Gallery are ISO 9002 certified, which means you have the peace of mind to invest in a unique purchase knowing that what you are paying for is of the highest quality, authentic, and you can get a full refund if you are not entirely satisfied with your purchase.

During a visit to one of the four GEMS Gallery workshops around Thailand, you will learn and witness first-hand skilled Thai artisans cutting, setting and polishing unique jewels. On arrival, you will experience authentic Thai hospitality with a welcome drink and a guide to lead you through the various interesting things to see. Feel free to ask questions as they are very professional, knowledgeable and are eager to share information about Thailandâ€&#x;s gem trade with you.

The galleries are located in all major tourist hotspots: Chiang Mai, Pattaya, Phuket and Bangkok. Transfers from your hotel are provided free of charge to the closest Gems Gallery.

We highly recommend using GEMS Gallery, both to learn more about these fascinating stones and if you are looking to purchase a cut stone or piece of bespoke jewellery.

Please contact us should additional information.

you

need

Gems history in Thailand The province of Chantaburi is the original home of mining and trading of gems in Thailand. It‟s recorded that in the 12th century A.D, a small town in this province was founded by the Mon-Khmer tribe, where archaeologists have found 2000 year old stone tools they believe were used in the cutting and mining of the area‟s gems.

Today the town is surprisingly cosmopolitan with a substantial Chinese, Vietnamese and Burmese community living and working among the local Thai people of the area. The Shan people from Burma recognised the potential and built up the mining and trading of gems in Chantaburi. Today these original families are still actively involved in selling and sourcing the local rubies and sapphires.

Why not consider taking a trip with us to Chantaburi on your next visit to Thailand? It‟s only a three-hour drive from Bangkok and you can see not only the origins of Thailand‟s gems industry, but also the surrounding area, which is rich in natural beauty.

Drive along the coastline, explore mangroves and rocky cliffs. The area is ideal for golfers, nature lovers and gem enthusiasts. Please contact us to design your itinerary.

Handy tips • Use the 4 C‟s rule when evaluating your potential purchase.

• In true Thailand shopping spirit, ask for a discount and be prepared to haggle for a bargain.

Nine times out of ten if you ask politely there is a deal to be done.

• When buying a precious stone or having it cut in Thailand, insist on seeing the sellers GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) certification.

This means the artisans are trained and licensed gemmologists, ensuring you will receive a professional result.

• If the authenticity of a stone or piece of jewellery is in question, walk away from the purchase as your suspicions are likely to be correct.

• Ask us for prebooked tour options that could incorporate a trip to GEMS Gallery to buy your jewellery at a great price with peace of mind.

Authentic Chinese Egg Rolls Ingredients (serves 20)

Preparation Method

• 4 teaspoons vegetable oil

1. Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in a wok or large skillet over

• 3 eggs, beaten

medium heat. Pour in beaten eggs and cook, without stirring, until

• 1 medium head cabbage, finely shredded

firm. Flip the eggs over and cook for an additional 20 seconds to firm

• 1/2 carrot, julienned

the other side. Set egg pancake aside to cool, then slice into thin

• 1 (8 ounce) can shredded bamboo shoots

strips.

• 1 cup dried, shredded wood ear mushroom,

2. Heat the remaining vegetable oil in a wok or large skillet over high

rehydrated • 1 pound Chinese barbequed or roasted pork, cut into matchsticks

heat. Stir in cabbage and carrot; cook for 2 minutes to wilt. Add bamboo, mushroom, pork, green onions, soy sauce, salt, sugar, and MSG; continue cooking until the vegetables soften, about 6 minutes.

• 2 green onions, thinly sliced

Stir in sliced egg, then spread mixture out onto a pan, and refrigerate

• 2 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce

until cold, about 1 hour.

• 1 teaspoon salt

3. To assemble the egg rolls, place a wrapper onto your work surface

• 1 teaspoon sugar

with one corner pointing towards you. Place about 3 tablespoons of

• 1/2 teaspoon monosodium glutamate (MSG)

cooled filling in a heap onto the bottom third of the wrapper. Brush a

• 1 (14 ounce) package egg roll wrappers

little beaten egg white onto the top two edges of the wrapper, then

• 1 egg white, beaten

fold the bottom corner over the filling and roll firmly to the halfway

• 4 cups oil for frying, or as needed

point. Fold the left and right sides snugly over the egg roll, then continue rolling until the top corners seal the egg roll with the egg

Preparation time: 1 hour Cooking time: 20 minutes Original Recipe is for 20 egg rolls

white. Repeat with remaining egg roll wrappers, covering finished egg rolls with plastic wrap to keep from drying out.

4. Heat about 6-inches of oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).

5. Fry egg rolls 3 or 4 at a time until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes.

Recipe source: http://allrecipes.com

Drain on paper towels.

Recipe

Coming Up: Thimphu Tschechu, Bhutan (25-27 Sep 2012) Thimpu Tschechu is one of Bhutanâ€&#x;s many colourful annual festivals.

A festival known as a Tsechu offers the visitor an opportunity to see the colourful mask dances and religious art forms of Bhutan and gives the visitor an opportunity to interact with the local people.

The dances known as Cham bring blessings upon the onlookers, instruct them in the teachings of the Buddhist dharma, protect them from misfortune and exorcise evil influences.

It is a religious festival and it is believed one gains merit by attending it. It is also a yearly social gathering where the people rejoice together, dressed in their finest clothing and jewellery.

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