Golf Kitchen: The Art of Mentoring, 2024

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G O L F K I T C H E N . C O M

DERIN MOORE A MASTER CHEF SHAPING CULINARY CAREERS AT GREY OAKS

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CONTRIBUTORS

Golf Kitchen Magazine is a quarterly publication of Golf Kitchen LLC. Copyright 2024. Print subscriptions are available at golfkitchen.com for $74.99 per year.

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FROM THE FOUNDER Welcome to 2024!

This edition of Golf Kitchen celebrates “The Art of Mentoring” and the transformative role that mentorship plays in gastronomy. Master chefs, with their unparalleled culinary expertise, tantalize our taste buds while serving as beacons of inspiration for up-andcoming chefs. Behind each culinary virtuoso lies the influence of a mentor, shaping identities and contributing to the evolution of the culinary arts.

Mentorship programs enable aspiring chefs to learn from the best in the industry. There is no better example than Derin Moore, CMC, who runs several immaculate kitchens at Grey Oaks Country Club in Naples, Florida. His 60-person culinary team includes 40 international staff. I was fortunate to witness Derin’s program in action and learn more about his personal approach to mentoring. We hope you find value in his story and enjoy his recipes in the magazine and online.

Golf Kitchen also sat down with Stephen Yen, Executive Chef at New Jersey’s Liberty National Golf Club. Stephen shares his journey transitioning from the restaurant world to the club scene at one of the finest golf properties in the country, and how the experience shaped his team approach inside the club kitchen.

Our first-ever pasta tutorial with Thomas Isidori, Executive Chef at Brae Burn Country Club in Purchase, New York is a palate pleaser. Thomas’ mentors were personal, as you’ll read about the culture and customs of his Italian heritage and love for handcrafted pasta and sauces.

This issue brings art to the forefront, with a look into the extraordinary talents of sommelier and Golf Kitchen wine reviewer Fernando Silva. Don’t miss the Art of the Oyster through the lens of the incredible Debbie Brady of Nova Scotia, Canada, and our photo spread of beautiful wine labels.

As you page through the magazine, there is much, much more to savor in the worlds of food and beverages. Additional content is always being added to the Golf Kitchen website.

Your support and readership are greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

Diana DeLucia, Founder

The Cherry Art ofWhite Shrubs Balsamic at GolfKitchen.com Scrub GolfKitchen.com

CONTENTS

THE MENTORING ISSUE 14

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AMUSE-BOUCHE

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HIGHLAND FLING

BY ANITA DRAYCOTT

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OYSTER ART WITH DEBBIE BRADY

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THE CLUB WINE REVIEW

BY FERNANDO SILVA

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COVER STORY: SHAPING CULINARY CAREERS THROUGH MENTORING AT GREY OAKS COUNTRY CLUB

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AN ITALIAN HERITAGE THROUGH PASTA BY THOMAS ISIDORI, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT BRAE BURN COUNTRY CLUB

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THE INFLUENCER: CULTIVATING CULINARY INTEREST WITH KELLY STILWELL

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FOLLOWING THE PATH TO PRIVATE CLUB CHEFDOM WITH STEPHEN YEN AT LIBERTY NATIONAL GOLF CLUB

CLUBHOUSE COCKTAILS

A CHEF 74 WITH A MISSION TO GIVE BACK. GERARD CLINTON, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT ASPETUCK VALLEY COUNTRY CLUB

THE ART OF THE WINE LABEL

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AMUSE-BOUCHE

Our editors have curated a selection of culinary tools, treasures and treats to be savored.

Get Wise

Apropos to this issue, Shari Bayer’s book highlights mentoring and culinary lessons learned. Chefwise: Life Lessons from Leading Chefs Around the World provides invaluable advice and life lessons from 117 outstanding chefs on topics not typically taught in culinary school.

Chefwise provides a glimpse into the contemporary culinary industry, rather than focus just on recipes or techniques. Bayer interviewed both the old guard and rising stars, expertly tailoring her interview questions to each chef and their culinary and personal backgrounds. Chefs were enthusiastic and eager to contribute, sharing their insightful anecdotes based on their own singular stories The book can be found wherever books are sold, including Amazon or on Phaidon.com

The Divine Truffle – In a Chip

Once you start, you won’t be able to stop. The Black Truffle Mushroom Chips from Confetti are nutrient dense, 100% crafted from plants tossed in savory curry spices. The company started in Singapore handcrafting veggies into nutrient dense chips. After hundreds of kitchen experiments, they landed on a satisfying crunch and rich hearty notes. Us.confettisnacks.com

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Artisan Cheeses and an Underground Cave

Valley Shepherd Creamery is an old-fashioned creamery located on 120 rolling acres in Long Valley, Morris County, NJ, within an hour of New York City. Here, years of artisan cheesemaking expertise is combined with modern equipment from around the world and age old European dairy farming practices to create more than 50 artisan dairy products, available by mail order, at farmers markets, or in their shop.

Exceptional quality is derived from a combination of perfect temperature, humidity, and lots of time. In Long Valley, there is an underground cave built 26 feet under the mountain. Inside, thousands of cheese wheels rest on thick Ash wood slabs and require constant maintenance. The cave staff (affineurs) turn, rub, moisten and tap the rinds to discern the process within. Based on experience, smell, touch, and cores drilled from a wheel, small batches are released for sale anytime from two to eighteen months.

Each Spring the ewes give birth, primarily to twins. The spring lamb tours allow contact with some of the newborn lambs and goat kids after they have been weaned off their moms. Visitors are welcome. https://valleyshepherd.com

How Sweet It Is

Chuao’s mantra is multiply the joy in your life and this company delights in engaging multiple sensory zones with feel-good, taste-good chocolate. These handcrafted, small batch chocolates are made in a kitchen from one-ofa-kind recipes and not formulated in a lab. The company uses fresh ingredients sourced from fair trade farms that provide fair working conditions, compensation, education, and healthcare to the community.

This west coast-based, boutique chocolate company has beaten out thousands of entries to win eight sofi awards from the Specialty Food Association. www.chuaochocolatier.com

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Skip the Booze, Not the Fun No alcohol? No problem. Raise the bar with Fred’s Good Measure – a 16-ounce measuring glass printed with a cleverly curated collection of seven tasty mocktail recipes that will appeal to the most discerning “dry” drinkers. www.genuinefred.com

Who’s the Boss?

The Pizza Boss 3000 is a fun pizza cutter designed to look like a circular saw.

It’ll blast thru pepperoni, extra cheese, even those pesky anchovies. Built from tough engineering-grade plastics, the laser-etched stainless blade has a removable shield for easy clean-up. Show that pizza who means business. www.genuinefred.com

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Make Your Slice Precise

If precision is your game, The Obsessive Chef has you covered with a 9 x 12 inch cutting board made of strong, sustainable bamboo, clearly spelling out the most precise measurements in exacting detail. www.genuinefred.com

Be Jeweled, Be Dazzling

Strut your stuff – culinary jewelry with a sharp edge! While the editors’ favorites are the steak knife earrings, the Etsy shop has a plethora of options to flaunt your favorite tools or foods – from whisks to farfalle pasta, measuring spoons to bacon. www.etsy.com

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Highland Fling: Discover Islay’s Peaty Single Malts

By Anita Draycott Western Scotland’s rugged inner Hebridean island of Islay (pronounced eye-la) is home to some of the peatiest single malts on the planet. Approaching Port Ellen via ferry, the smoke belches from the chimneys of three of Islay’s iconic distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg). Set on the jagged coast punctuated with rock outcroppings, the distilleries all adhere to the same style—whitewashed outer walls with their names painted in huge black letters on the seaward side.

Now, a wee primer on Islay’s whiskies. Irish monks originally brought the art of distilling the uisge beatha (water of life) to Islay in the 14th century. It was an ideal location due to its unlimited supply of peat and soft pure water. Originally, the islanders made their brew in illegal stills and even though an excise tax was declared in 1644, excise men didn’t venture onto Islay until 1797 because they regarded the natives as wild barbarians. Though only 600 kilometers square, Islay now boasts nine legal distilleries with names best pronounced with a rich Scottish brogue: Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Ardnahoe, Bowmore, Kilchoman, Caol Ila, Bunnahabhain and Bruicladdich.

The three ingredients for making whisky are barley, water, and yeast. But the alchemy depends on where that water comes from, how long the barley is malted and smoked over peat fires, the shape of the stills and the skill of the master blender. All these factors give each distillery’s whiskies their distinctive taste and style.

There’s no right or wrong way to drink single malts. Some are best enjoyed straight while others benefit from a few drops of water causing an exothermic reaction that heats up the whisky. The liquid smoke or “reek of peat” found in Islay whiskies depends on their phenol levels, which generally range from two (Bunnahabhain) to 50 (Ardbeg).

Each of the distilleries has its own claim to fame.

Laphroaig, established in 1815, was the preferred tipple of Sir Sean Connery and King Charles who bestowed upon it a Royal Warrant in 1994. Ardbeg generally brews the peatiest single malts. But not to be outdone, Bruichladdich has produced Octomore, the peatiest in the world with 140 parts phenol giving it a flavor of iodine and brine.

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Lagavulin distillery exemplifies Islay’s iconic architecture of whitewashed buildings with black pagoda roofs.

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Ardbeg was registered as a legal commercial distillery in 1815 but was known to be in production from the late 18th century.

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Every distillery offers a variety of tours. Bowmore’s Craftsman’s Tour, lasting about two and half hours, gives visitors an in-depth explanation of the process—from cutting the peat in the bogs to maturing the alcohol in bourbon or sherry casks in the warehouse dating back to 1779.

“If you can’t find a Bowmore to fall in love with, you may have to consider very seriously the possibility that you’re wasting your money drinking whisky at all,” remarked Iain Banks in his book Raw Spirit: In Search of the Perfect Dram. In Bowmore’s tasting room, my tipple of choice was a 25-year-old elixir with notes of toffee, sherry, and hazelnuts. It slides down nicely with a buttery shortbread.

Sláinte!

The Machrie Links Challenge Created in 1891 by Willie Campbell, The Machrie is Islay’s only golf course. But it’s a memorable romp up and over the formidable dunes stretching along the Atlantic Ocean.

Golf architect David Russell was hired to redesign the wild links and his tamer version opened in 2018. The adjoining Machrie Hotel, also recently renovated, was named Scotland’s Golf Hotel of the Year in 2023.

Getting to Islay Fly from Glasgow or Edinburgh or take the ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen.

Anita Draycott is a Toronto-based journalist, editor, and photographer. A self-confessed “foodie” and golf addict, she has pursued dimpled white balls and fine cuisine over six continents. She is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers and Travel Media Association of Canada. www.adraycott.com

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Shaping Culinary Careers Through Mentoring

Executive Chef Derin Moore’s Journey & How He Pays it Forward at Grey OaksExeE Becoming a Certified Master Chef (CMC) is a prestigious achievement requiring hard work, dedication, and talent.

Mentors can make the journey much smoother, providing a way for aspiring chefs to learn from experienced professionals and gain valuable industry insights.

Mentors share their experiences, knowledge, and skills, helping their mentees develop a culinary style and refine their techniques. Additionally, mentoring provides accountability, making the mentee more likely to stay on track and follow through on commitments.

The key to achieving the CMC designation is selecting the right chefs. Recently, Golf Kitchen’s founder, Diana DeLucia, sat down with Derin Moore, CMC, at Grey Oaks Country Club in Naples, Florida, to learn about his journey from mentee to mentor.

GK: Where did your interest in becoming a Certified Master Chef originate?

My grandfather significantly influenced me in my choice of a culinary career. I spent most of my summers with him in Buffalo, New York. He knew Joseph Amendola, the patriarch, instructor, and ambassador of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York.

In 1982, when I was in the 10th grade, my grandfather took me on a CIA campus tour. I met many chefs of this era, including Tim Ryan and Mark Erickson, who were department heads under Ferdinand Metz, President of the CIA for 21 years.

I was accepted to the CIA after graduating from high school. Most people there were older and working towards a second career, while I was just 18 years old.

Moving from Detroit to New York State was a big change for me. I was timid and buried myself in my studies.

Since most of my classmates were older and more experenced, I looked to my instructors for guidance. This is when I first learned about Master Chefs and the Culinary Olympics.

While at the CIA, I completed an 18-month study, including a five-month externship at The Bijou restaurant, 18

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ultimately graduating in 1986. Following graduation, I worked in a few kitchens that were not at the level I had grown accustomed to at the CIA and found that I needed more guidance and experience. A colleague introduced me to Brian Polcyn, an accomplished chef who had written several books on charcuterie, coauthored by Michael Ruhlman. Brian, who is an incredible chef took me under his wing and mentored me through the ranks of his kitchen, eventually to become Chef de Cuisine running day-to-day operations while he opened two other restaurants. At a young age, I oversaw one of the best fine-dining restaurants in Michigan under his leadership. I stayed with Brian for eight years, where I built a strong foundation based on the fundamentals of solid cooking. It was Brian who encouraged me to compete in regional culinary competitions, which I did in Cleveland, Chicago, and Detroit.

Several Master Chefs from my home state of Michigan participated on regional and national Culinary Olympic teams, including Mike Russell, Dan Hugelier, and Jeff Gabriel. World-renowned Master Chef Milos Cihelka mentored many of the successful Michigan chefs. I looked up to all of them, knowing that this was the challenge I wanted. Their mentoring would later spark my interest in representing the United States in international competitions.

Being part of U.S. Culinary Olympic Team, training and getting ready to take the Master Chef exam at the CIA, opened up an entirely new level of relationships with chefs interested in seeing me succeed.

GK: What are the key lessons you have learned during your career?

I will never improve if I surround myself with people who just accept what I do without challenging me to be better.

One of the first menus I wrote when I became Chef de Cuisine under Brian was very aggressive and creative.

However, the crew could not execute it, service needed to be faster, and they needed help to get the food out of the kitchen. Brian allowed me to make that mistake. It was a valuable lesson: Don’t be overly creative if the team that surrounds you is not trained first to execute it.

Demonstrating the importance of precision and consistancy. Left: Dogukan Duru, Outlet Supervisor, and Derin Moore, CMC.

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GK: What did you learn from competing?

Love of competition is more than simply winning a medal.

It’s striving to be perfect. And that philosophy has spilled over into my work ethic. During the competition, you spend all this time making a beautiful piece. Then you slice it the wrong way, and suddenly, you’ve slipped to a silver or bronze medal. That constant reinforcement and emphasis on perfection is what competition is all about.

GK: How did you prepare for the ten-day CMC exam?

One misconception of preparing for the exam is that you suddenly start to study and cram. But it’s the choices you make along the way that prepare you, who trains you, constant refinement of your skills, competing, researching, and strengthening weaknesses in preparation or style. Fritz Gitschner, CMC, was Executive Chef at Houston Country Club and a stern judge at the CMC exam. He was notorious for low scores and a stickler for details, flavor, and sanitation. I needed to know the nuances of the exam to pass. To take the mystery out of it, I decided to call him. He told fellow chef Dan Scannell and me to come to Houston and he would put us through every segment of the Master Chef exam.

After each morning and afternoon session, he critiqued our work, how we moved in the kitchen, organized our stations, and sanitation. He pointed out our bad and good habits. He 20

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had vested interest in our success, but we also made a considerable commitment for a solid week.

GK: What was the most challenging part of the exam?

Day ten of the exam is critical. While the first nine days of the exam are worth 60% of the total score, day ten is a mystery basket weighted at 40%. We drew a list of 15 different ingredients and had 20 minutes to create a menu, 10 minutes to requisition the food, four hours to cook, and 20 minutes to serve twelve portions.

At the end of the ninth day, Peter Timmons, CMC, who was the Executive Chef at The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, WV, pulled me aside and said, “You know you have a good shot at passing. How are you organizing yourself for the mystery basket portion?” He explained the importance of organizing your thoughts for quick decision-making and ultimate success. Again, this proved to be valuable advice from a trusted mentor.

GK: Tell us how Lawrence McFadden became a mentor and friend?

I was on the U.S. Culinary Olympic Team with Lawrence from 1993 to 1996, and we developed a professional relationship. He went on to serve as Executive Chef and Corporate Chef with the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company.

In 2007, while I was at Medinah Country Club, Lawrence called and asked if I would be interested in becoming the Executive Chef for the Ritz-Carlton in Naples. We had a discussion about the inner workings of the resort and he told me, “You can manage 25 outlets, and your vision of food is what we need to take the property to the next level.” I got the job, which was my first post at a five-star, five-diamond luxury resort. Lawrence gave me a stellar opportunity and for the next several years, over daily cups of coffee, we challenged each other to be better than the day before. He’s been a great friend and a significant influence.

GK: Many younger chefs only have some of this experience, and some have just worked their way up in one country club. How do they gain access to this level of mentorship and opportunities?

When somebody tells me they want to be a Master Chef or asks me what it takes to be one, I must be honest with them. It was not just about taking the exam; it was a compilation of every experience I had along the culinary journey with my mentors. It’s all the travels, hard work, successes, and failures.

GK: How has social media changed culinary communications and promotion?

Social media brings exposure and gives chefs a platform to share information. Chefs striving for perfection have an outlet to solicit feedback.

GK: Your team at Grey Oaks is a very diverse group of cooks from around the world. What effect has your mentoring program had on them?

They appreciate the opportunity to learn, while challenging themselves and growing their craft. The positive impact of our mentoring program also transcends the culinary realm, including creating a workplace culture that values diversity and celebrating the unique contributions of each person. In turn, team members eagerly recommend Grey Oaks to their vast network of colleagues in the industry and the Club is then able to hire similar driven culinarians who want to learn and succeed.

We have developed a culture of pride in what we prepare.

Image left to right: Kevin LaFemina, Chef de Cuisine; Derin Moore, CMC; Mehmet Korkmaz, Lead Line Cook; Olcay Gul Koc, Lead Line Cook and Dogukan Duru, Outlet Supervisor.

Image right: The flag pin on the 18th green of the Estuary Course at Grey Oaks. Image courtesy Grey Oaks.

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Dover Sole with

White Asparagus, Caviar, Royal Glacage & Grapes Yield: Four Portions

Ingredients Dover Sole • 4 ea. 16/20 Gulf Shrimp (peeled and deveined) • 1 teaspoon Dijon Mustard • 1 pinch Cayenne Pepper • 1/4 cup Heavy Cream • 1 teaspoon Lemon Juice • 2 whole Dover Sole (remove fillets) • Salt and Pepper (to taste) • 2 Tablespoons Caviar Asparagus Garnish • 12 White Asparagus Spears (remove tough end) • 8 toasted Brioche Croutons • 3 Tablespoons Toasted Almonds (sliced) • 12 Green Grapes (sliced, peeled) • Chervil Leaves (as needed) • 2 teaspoons Lemon Oil • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Hollandaise • 1 Egg Yolk • 4 ounces Clarified Butter (warm) • 1 ounce Water • 1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice • 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce • 1 splash Tabasco • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Fish Veloute • 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil • 2 Tablespoons Shallots • 1/2 cup Leeks • 1 cup Celery (cut on a bias) • 1 cup Chardonnay Wine • 2 each Carcasses (from above Dover sole, cut into large pieces) • 1 ea. Bay Leaf • 3 sprigs Thyme (fresh) • 3 sprigs Tarragon (fresh) • 3 sprigs Italian Parsley (fresh) • 1 quart Fish Stock (substitute water) • 1 cup Heavy Whipping Cream • Cornstarch (as needed, slurry to thicken to nappe consistency) • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Golf Kitchen

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Grey Oaks Country Club’s indoor/outdoor Pool Café. Image courtesy Grey Oaks.

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Royal Glacage • 1/3 cup Fish Veloute • 1/3 cup Heavy Whipping Cream (whip to stiff peaks) • 1/3 cup Hollandaise Sauce

Preparation Dover Sole Place the shrimp in a food processor and purée until smooth. Add the mustard, cayenne, and seasoning.

Gradually add the cream to form a smooth mousseline.

Place the flesh side of the sole down. On the skin side, pipe a small bead of shrimp mouse. Top with the other fillet. Trim ends for an even portion. Season lightly with salt and paper, then wrap carefully in saran wrap and tie off both ends. Gently poach in 150°F water to an internal temperature of 120°F. Hollandaise Combine the yolk, water, Worcestershire, Tabasco, and lemon juice in a small metal bowl. Place over a small pot of simmering water and whisk until frothy and volume has tripled. Add the butter, whisking constantly to emulsify fully in a slow, gradual stream. Add salt and pepper to taste. Hold warm.

Fish Veloute Sweat the shallots, leeks, and celery in olive oil without color. Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the sole bones and sweat for a few minutes to cook them. Add the herbs and stock. Simmer for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine chinois and add the cream. Simmer and thicken with the dissolved cornstarch. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Royal Glacage Warm the fish veloute. Gently fold in Hollandaise. Fold in whipped cream to lighten.

Assembly Place the warm sole on the plate. Warm the asparagus, arrange the asparagus, and garnish with the listed ingredients artistically. Place the Hollandaise sauce on the plate. Finish with a quenelle of caviar on top of the sole.

Wine Pairing 2017 Domaine Leflaive, Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Burgundy, France.~Victor Valdivia, Wine Director

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Spaghetti Al Nero Di Seppi

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King Crab & Caviar with Avocado Mousse, Crème Fraiche, Apple & Cucumber Yuzu Broth Yield: Four Portions

Ingredients King Crab • 2 ea. Large King Crab Legs • 2 teaspoons Lemon Oil • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Avocado Mousse • 3 sheets Sheet Gelatin • 2 Avocados (clean from the shell) • 1 1/2 Tablespoons Lime Juice • 1/2 cup Heavy Whipping Cream • 3 sprigs Cilantro (fresh) • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Crème Fraiche • 1/2 cup Crème Fraiche • 2 Tablespoons Heavy Cream • 1 Tablespoon Gelatin (taken from the above recipe after melting) • 1 teaspoon Lemon Zest • 1 pinch Salt Cucumber Yuzu Broth • 2 European Cucumbers (peeled and seeded) • 1/2 cup Yuzu • 2 Tablespoons Lime Juice • Sea Salt (to taste) Garnish • 1/2 cup Parisian Cucumbers • 2 Tablespoons Smoked Trout Roe • 1 Granny Smith Apple (sliced thin) • 1 cup Crème Fraiche (for piping) • Pea Tendrils (as needed) • Lemon Oil (as needed)

Preparation King Crab Remove the crab from the shell. Carefully cut an even piece to fit the top of the desired mold. Before placement, season and drizzle with the lemon oil.

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Avocado Mousse Bloom the gelatin in cold water. Purée all ingredients EXCEPT the gelatin in a blender until very smooth. Place the gelatin sheets in a small bowl over simmering water until dissolved.

Reserve 1 Tablespoon of the gelatin to add to the crème fraiche, to top the mousse. Add 1/3 of the purée to the gelatin and warm to 120°F. Add back into the base and mix thoroughly to combine.

Fill your desired molds half way. Chill for at least two hours.

Cucumber Yuzu Broth Make a half cup of small Parisian cucumbers for garnish. Put all of the remaining cucumber through a juicer. Add remaining ingredients and chill.

Assembly Once the avocado mousse is set, combine all ingredients for the crème fraiche and top the avocado mousse. Artistically fan the thin apples on each side of the mold. Top with the king crab.

Place on the plate and remove the mold. Pipe crème fraiche around the base. Flood the desired plate with the yuzu broth.

Add the cucumber Parisians and trout roe. Drizzle the pea tendrils with lemon oil and season. Decoratively arrange around the avocado mousse.

Wine Pairing 2018 Domaine Francois Raveneau, Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru, Chablis, France.~Victor Valdivia, Wine Director

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29 Golf Kitchen The Estuary at Grey Oaks.Image courtesy Grey Oaks.

Duck Pastrami with Grain Mustard Sauce, Brussels Sprouts & Sweet Potatoes

Yield: Four Portions

Ingredients Duck Pastrami • 4, 6-ounce Moulard or Peking Duck Breast • 1 quart Honey Brine (recipe follows) • 1/2 cup Pomegranate Molasses • 1/2 cup Pastrami Spice (recipe follows) • Salt and Pepper (to taste) 30

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Honey Brine • 1 quart Water • 1/2 ounce Pink Curing Salt • 3 ounces Honey • 3 ounces Kosher Salt • 3 ea. Juniper Berry • 3 sprigs Thyme (fresh) • 1 teaspoon Black Peppercorns • 2 ea. Star Anise • 1 ea. Bay Leaf • 2 teaspoons Ginger (peeled and grated)

Pastrami Spice • 2 Tablespoons Peppercorns (coarse cracked) • 2 Tablespoons Coriander (coarse cracked) • 1 Tablespoon Pink Peppercorns • 1 Tablespoon Italian Parsley (coarse chopped) Sweet Potato Purée • 2 ea. Sweet Potatoes • 2 Tablespoons Butter

Brussels Sprouts • 2 cups Brussels Sprouts (chiffonade) • 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil • 1 teaspoon Garlic (minced) • 2 Tablespoons Onion (minced) • • 2 Tablespoons Celery (minced) • • 2 Tablespoons Carrots (minced) • 1 teaspoon Thyme (fresh, minced) Grain Mustard Sauce 1 teaspoon Caraway Seed (coarse • 2 Tablespoons Shallots (minced) • ground) • 1 teaspoon Garlic (minced) • 1/2 cup Toasted Walnuts • 1 Tablespoon Butter • Salt and Pepper (to taste) • 1/2 cup Dry Sherry Wine • 2 cups Fortified Chicken Stock Garnish • 1/2 cup Heavy Cream • 8 ea. Brussels Sprout Leaves (blanch • 2 Tablespoons Cornstarch and shock) (dissolved with water) • 8 ea. Sweety Drop Peppers • 1 Tablespoon Whole Grain • 2 Tablespoons Pickled Mustard Mustard Seeds (optional) • 1 Tablespoon Dijon Mustard • 32 ea. Corn Shoot Leaves (optional) • Salt and Pepper (to taste) • • •

1 Tablespoon Honey 1/2 teaspoon Cloves (ground) 1/2 teaspoon Juniper Berries (ground) 1/2 teaspoon Star Anise (ground) Salt and Pepper (to taste)

Preparation Duck Pastrami Season with salt and pepper. On moderate heat in a Teflon pan, render the fat side down until golden brown.

Lightly sear the flesh side. Brush with the molasses and pack with pastrami spice.

Roast the duck at 375°F on a rack until an internal temperature of 145°F. Allow to rest for five minutes and slice lengthwise on on a diagonal.

Honey Brine Combine all the ingredients and bring to a rolling boil. Chill. Remove a thin layer of fat from the duck breast. Lightly score with a cross-hatch pattern. Brine the duck breast in the honey brine and refrigerate for six hours. Pat dry.

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Pastrami Spice Combine ingredients in a small bowl.

Sweet Potato Purée Roast the potatoes at 375°F until just fork tender.

Remove from the skin and process the remaining ingredients to a fine purée.

Grain Mustard Sauce Sweat the garlic and shallots in butter without color.

Reduce the wine by half. Add the stock and cream.

Reduce to desired flavor. Thicken to nape consistency with the starch—temper in the mustards and season to taste.

Brussels Sprouts Blanch the Brussels sprouts in boiling salted water and then shock in ice water. Sweat the vegetables in olive oil until tender. Combine remaining ingredients and just warm through. Toss in walnuts before service.

Assembly Pipe the sweet potato border on two sides of the plate with a fine pastry tip. Flood the plate with the mustard sauce. Place the sliced breast. Place the Brussels sprouts in between the two breasts. Place the garnish on either end of the plate.

Wine Pairing 2012 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage, Rhône Valley, France~Victor Valdivia, Wine Director

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The Andrew Green designed Pine Golf Course.

Image courtesy Grey Oaks.

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Corned Veal Shank & Sweetbreads with Cabbage, Chanterelles, Beets, Squash & Arugula Purées

Yield: Four Portions

Ingredients Veal Shank • 2 ea. Veal Shanks, Osso Buco (cut 2 inches thick) • 1 quart Honey Brine (see recipe on page 32 and 33) • 1 quart White Veal Stock • 2 cups White Mirepoix, (equal parts of Leek, Celery, Parsnip, Fennel, and Onion) • 2 Tablespoons Garlic • 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil • 3 sprigs Thyme (fresh) • 1 ea. Bay Leaf • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Mousse • 1 ea. Veal Shank, Osso Buco (cut 2” thick) • 2 Tablespoons Shallots (minced) • 2 teaspoons Garlic (minced) • 1/2 cup Dry Sherry Wine • 2 teaspoons Pâté Spice • 1 1/2 cups Heavy Whipping Cream • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Sweetbreads • 2 lobes Veal Sweetbreads • 1 quart Water • 1/4 cup Kosher Salt • 1/4 cup Honey • 2 cups White Mirepoix, (equal parts of Leek, Celery, Parsnip, Fennel and Onion, matignon cut) • 1 cup Smoky Slab Bacon (small dice) • 3 sprigs Thyme (fresh) • 3 sprigs Tarragon (fresh) • 1 ea. Bay leaf • 1/4 cup ea. Madeira, Dry Sherry and Brandy • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Cabbage • 4 cups Savoy Cabbage (chiffonade) • 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil • 1 teaspoon Garlic (minced) • 2 Tablespoons Onion (minced) • 2 Tablespoons Celery (minced) • 2 Tablespoons Carrots (minced)

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• • •

1 teaspoon Thyme (fresh, minced) 1 teaspoon Cardamom Seeds (coarse. fine) Salt and Pepper (to taste)

Beet Purée • 1 ea. Red Beet (peel and large dice) • 2 Tablespoons Cider Vinegar • 2 Tablespoons Sugar • 1 cup White Veal Stock • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Arugula Purée • 4 ounces Arugula • 2 cups Heavy Cream • 2 ounces Truffle Butter • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Squash Purée • 1 ea. Butternut Squash • 2 Tablespoons Honey • 2 Tablespoons Fresh Orange Juice and Zest • 1/4 cup Heavy Cream • 2 ounces Butter • 1/2 teaspoon Cloves • Salt and Pepper (to taste) Garnish • 1 cup Chanterelle Mushrooms • 1 cup Squash (reserved from above) • 1 cup Sweetbread Nuggets (sauté in butter) • 6 slices Prosciutto (slice thin and fry until crispy) • 2 Tablespoons Mixed Picked Flower Petals • 4 ea. Tempura Fried Squash Blossoms • 1 Tablespoon Red Currants

Preparation Veal Shank Brine two shanks in the honey brine for 8 hours. Sweat the Mirepoix in olive oil until tender. Place shanks on top, and cover with warm stock and herbs. Cover and braise at 275°F for two hours or until tender. Pick the meat, large dice, and chill.

Mousse Bone out the shank. Grind the meat finely. Sweat the garlic and shallots in olive oil with no color, and chill. Reduce the wine by 1/3, then chill. Add to a Robot Coupe food processor and season. Gradually add the cream to make a smooth mousse. In a separate bowl, fold the cooked shank into the mousse. Roll tightly in saran wrap and tie off both ends.

Gently poach at 160°F to an internal temperature of 155°F. Sweetbreads Soak the sweetbreads overnight. Sweat the bacon and vegetables without color. Top with raw sweetbreads, herbs,

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and wines. Simmer and cover. Cook at 300°F for 45 minutes or until tender, and allow to chill overnight— portion into small nuggets.

Cabbage Blanch the cabbage in boiling salted water and shock.

Sweat the vegetables in olive oil until tender. Combine the remaining ingredients and just warm through.

Beet Purée Combine all the ingredients and simmer until completely tender. Purée until very smooth and strain.

Arugula Purée Reduce the heavy cream by half. Add the truffle and arugula to a blender and purée very smooth.

Squash Purée Roast the whole squash at 350°F until fork tender, peel and seed. Make 1 cup of large dice for garnish, then reserve. Purée 2 cups of the remaining squash and ingredients until smooth.

Assembly Place the warm cabbage in a ring mold. Place the three purées in individual squirt bottles and drizzle around the plate. Place the warm veal galantine on top of the cabbage. Artistically arrange the remaining garnish ingredients around the sauces. Place the crispy squash blouson on top of the veal.

Wine Pairing 2016 Roagna, Barbaresco, Asili, Vecchie Viti, Piedmont, Italy~Victor Valdivia, Wine Director

The verandah at the Estuary is the perfect location for alfresco dining.

Image courtesy Grey Oaks.

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THE ART OF THE OYSTER

South Carolina Shell: Collected, shucked and sent to me by South Carolina's Competitive Oyster Shucker, Isabella Macbeth.

Do these beautiful images look familiar? Look more closely.

Talented and creative Canadian artist Debbie Brady uses complex macro photography techniques to uncover the never-before-seen abstract beauty hidden in small sections of oyster shells. Her Oyster Art™ takes a typically unappreciated part of a culinary delicacy and transforms it into stunning fine art pieces. As one fan said, “I’ll never look at an oyster shell the same way again!”

By stacking multiple photographic images, Debbie uncovers incredible colors and designs in oyster shells not otherwise visible to the naked human eye. She explains, “Macro photography is like experiencing another dimension of reality—a reality I really didn’t know anything about. I was seeing something extraordinarily new in something so familiar. That moment of discovery creates the same ‘goosebump’ reaction every single time for me.”

Using oyster shells for creative inspiration is not surprising given that Debbie lives on Canada’s Oyster Coast. Her home base of Tyne Valley, Prince Edward Island, hosts the Canadian Oyster Shucking Championship during its annual Oyster Festival. The Malpeque oysters of this region are world-renowned for supreme quality and great taste.

Debbie informs her art with knowledge of the aquaculture industry - especially her understanding of the life cycle of oysters and how they are farmed. For instance, the color, shape and texture of an oyster shell is determined by its species and growing environment.

Like snowflakes, no two oyster shells are alike, providing endless possibilities for Debbie’s work. As she explains, “Only a small percentage of shells prove to be photogenic enough to create an Oyster Art™ image.” She has a large inventory of shells from Canada, Maine, Japan, Ireland and other global locations.

Oyster Art™ was launched in 2018 for the sheer joy of sharing her discoveries. “I’m motivated to use my art to celebrate this historic industry one photograph at a time.”

Debbie’s fine art prints are available in three mediums: archival paper, acrylic or canvas and are sold to private collectors and commercial establishments in open, limited and pearl (one-of-a-kind) editions. Additional information may be found on the website at: www. oysterart.ca.

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Image: Lisa Enman Photography.

Poignant was created by compositing 46 separate captures at 2:1 magnification, each one with a different sliver in focus. This was accomplished by moving the camera .18 mm (or .007 inches) closer to the shell each time. Even the smallest vibration in the room or camera could result in a blurry image that would render the entire series unusable. The resulting final artwork is well worth the time and effort required during the photographic

process!

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Buoyant ~ inspiration oyster shell from Peconic Bay, Long Island, New York The inspiration shell for “Buoyant” is from Meg Dowe of Yennicott Oysters in Long Island, New York.

Buoyant is created using a 3:1 magnification. To be sure my final compiled image would have the ideal amount of focus, I took 31 captures, moving the camera .09 mm (or .004 inches) closer to the shell each time.

The incredible graphic textures and vivid contrasting dark and light colours of that shell were unlike anything I had ever discovered before with my macro lens. I can imagine that viewers will have many different stories to tell about the things they can “see” in the final image.

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Demarcation ~ inspiration oyster shell from Wood Islands, Prince Edward Island, Canada.

This image could easily be mistaken for an aerial shot from a spacecraft or possibly a topographic map showing the border between fertile and arid land. Instead, it is a 1.5X magnification photo of a small area of a weathered oyster shell. The patterns nature creates in the smallest things come full circle to appear in the largest things. That explains why something may look so familiar that we have never seen before. Nature’s miniature abstracts definitely have a way of prompting discussions about the true identity of the artwork’s subject. “Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.” ~ Edgar Degas

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Oyster Art – The Book Oyster Art: The Book is a feast for the eyes! Its stunning art collection of forty 12”x10” photographs provides a unique visual journey across Prince Edward Island’s four scenic areas. Each turn of the page includes stories and educational information to celebrate—not only Debbie Brady’s creative talents and exquisite images of oyster shells, but also her home province, its oysters and the aquafarmers caring for them.

“Enrich your space with a conversation piece.”

Debbie Brady Fine Art Macro Photographer Oyster Art Studio & Gallery 902 831 2330 debbie@oysterart.ca www.oysterart.ca

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Charcoal Roasted Local Oysters Recently, Debbie was sent some South Carolina oysters, collected from the Stono River, a tidal channel in southeast South Carolina, located southwest of Charleston. The channel runs southwest to northeast between the mainland and Wadmalaw Island and Johns Island. She looks forward to studying more oyster specimens from the Carolinas and Lowcountry.

Quarterdeck Restaurant at The Sea Pines Resort Hilton Head, South Carolina.

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 dozen freshly shucked Oysters (of your choice) 1 pound Unsalted Butter 8 sprigs Italian Parsley 4 sprigs Tarragon (fresh) 4 cloves Garlic (fresh, chopped) 1 ounce Chives (finely chopped) 1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice (fresh) Kosher Salt Ground Black Pepper 8 ounces Reggiano Parmigiano (grated) Old Bay Seasoning Thick Sliced Bread 2 Lemons (cut in wedges)

Preparation Preheat a charcoal grill and maintain temperature at around 500°F. Place half of the butter in a saucepot with all the chopped garlic, 4 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs tarragon, and half of the chopped chives; cook on medium heat until the garlic is brown and toasted, then strain and cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, place the other half of the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer. Once the melted butter is cooled to room temperature, add to the stand mixer and whip both butters together. Add all the lemon juice and salt, and pepper to taste. Chop the remaining herbs and mix them together for a finishing garnish.

Assembly Spoon some of the garlic butter on top of each oyster, then top with a generous amount of the cheese. Place the dressed oysters directly on the grates of your charcoal grill until the oyster is bubbling in its juice and the cheese is melty and toasted; then place on a platter. Once the oysters are done, top with a pinch of Old Bay Seasoning and the chopped herbs. Spread some of the remaining garlic butter on the thick sliced bread and toast on the grill quickly. Place the grilled bread a long side the platter of oysters along with the cut lemons.

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Image courtesy: The Sea Pines Resort.

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The Club Wine Review A comprehensive & dynamic approach to wine reviews for the Private Club industry.

Wine inspires and stimulates the social nerve in our brains, making us connect with the parts sometimes forgotten deep in our soul. In good moderation, it changes the least confident person into a firstclass motivational speaker. Many brilliant ideas are sparked during Bacchus’s enchantment, while the God of wine elevates us to the realm of the senses, we become more empathetic with others emotionally and intellectually in ways beyond our imagination.

Enjoy responsibly!

Fernando Silva Wine Critic, Sommelier and Artist @bacchusbysilva

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How We Score Wines 95-100 Quintessential Wine: Refined, elegant, and unique, a true expression of varietal, terroir, and winemaking skills, with great aging potential 90-94

Formidable Wine: A wine full of life ready to become a true icon

85-89 Brilliant Wine: Usually fresh, vibrant, and on its way to growth 80-84

Great Effort: Enjoyable at many levels, easy to enjoy, a party-going wine

75-79

Good effort: Wines that are still developing character

50-74

Needs Improvement: Wines that require some fine work

Krug Champagne, Brut, Reims, France, Vintage 2006

La Spinetta, Il Rose di Casanova, Rosato, Tuscany, Italy - 2022

The legendary House of Krug is noted for releasing their vintage champagnes as “the expression of that year.” The 2006 Vintage is called “Capricious Indulgence” and I must agree with them!

This vintage is packed with indulging aromas and flavors that go back and forth in a capricious dance on the palate: honeyed apples and freshly baked croissant, white stone fruit, and a touch of almond, orange undertones, and a delicate mandarin peel scent. An amazing choreography of indulging elements.

Opening the bottle of this Tuscan Rose will awaken the fragrant aromas of fresh strawberry and ripe ruby red grapefruit. This delightful rose is made by the iconic Spinetta House in Tuscany, also famous for their Barolos.

This Rosato is a blend of Sangiovese and Prugnolo Gentile. In the glass It shows brilliantly as a unique copper red, and on the nose, tropical fruit aromas of guava and pineapple. High minerality, a savory touch of acidity, medium finish, and lots of flavor. Over indulge!

GK 98

GK 89

Champagne Gosset, Celebris, Extra Brut, Epernay, France, Vintage 2008 ~ Gosset is the oldest wine house in Champagne, founded in 1584.

Il Palagio 1530, Rosso Toscana, Tuscany, Italy - 2019

Gosset is regarded for creating exceptional champagnes and famous for the rarity of their cuvees. This vintage is only the eighth edition of Gosset Celebris in the past 34 years and is a limited edition of 15,000 bottles. Celebris opens up in the glass with delicate white flower aromas--jasmine, acacia—and flavors of white and yellow plum, baked yellow and red apples, fine vanilla, and sabayon. A rich combination of bright acidity and hints of oceanic wind. Truly, a celebration for the senses.

We can call this “super Tuscan”—a beautiful composition, a blend of Merlot and Sangiovese, with powerful aromas of red and black cherry, ripe plum, and delicate notes of Italian spices. Dark and alluring in the glass, well integrated tannins, elegant notes of licorice and a full body.

GK 96

Summer Dreams, Sauvignon Blanc, “Walking on Venice Beach,” Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California - 2021.

GK 96

Bergstrom, Old Stones, Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2021 Gold and silver hues on the glass of this intensely floral Chardonnay, with aromas of acacia, ripe green and yellow apple, and pear dominate the glass. On the palate, notes of citrus and vibrant acidity, rich and complex with some intriguing mineral notes of river stones.

There is a delicate touch of white pepper in the long and savory finish.

Simply stunning.

GK 90

Jayson Woodbridge, Hundred Acre owner, describes his Sauvignon Blanc as potentially “one of the true great crafters of California white wines.”

Enticing nose of fresh grapefruit and freshly cut grass, ripeness of fruit, mineral tonalities, and a judicious use of French oak is the keynote of this wine.

Yellow apple, some tropical notes, dry pomelo peel and a hint of light spices on the long finish. Every element adds complexity and layers of flavor. Delightful!

GK 90 Golf Kitchen

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Selbach Oster, Schlossberg, Riesling, Grosses Gewachs, Mosel, Germany, 2020

Chateau Palmer, Margaux, Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2014 Bordeaux wines will always have an amazing appeal for wine lovers around the world. Chateau Margaux is an exemplary property located on the left bank of the Garonne Estuary.

Palmer 2014 opens in the glass with an alluring nose—intense aromas of wild mushrooms and fine spice, black cherry, and blackberry core. There are hints of bitter chocolate, tobacco, and menthol. The palate re-confirms this pleasant experience, and shows opulence, with a medium-body, and super fine tannins, A beauty in your glass.

~ About German Wines: Grosses Gewachs, or “GG” on the label, refers to wines made from Grosse Lage or Grand Cru vineyards. Unlike their French counterparts, the term does not exist within any part of wine law.

Producers that make wines with such a distinction must be one of the 200 members of the Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter, or VDP. Riesling has a special place on every wine list. This versatile wine shows in the glass as crystalline pale gold transparency. Schlossberg is overall minerally driven and complex. On the nose, the note of stone fruit gives way to ripe peach and citrus, extremely elegant with just a light petrol note. On the palate this wine is uber-dry, and crisp with a finish that puts emphasis on that wet blue stone mouth feel. Share this amazing wine with a wide range of culinary options, especially with Asian cuisine.

GK 90 Drouhin Oregon, Rose Rock, Pinot Noir, Eola – Amity Hills, Oregon - 2021 An Oregon pinot noir with a French pedigree! Right from the start, on the glass this pinot noir is bright and shiny, Ruby red, a true gem, in the glass, fresh raspberry, and red fruit with notes of cocoa and spice, silky tannins, and well-balanced acidity. This wine may age in your cellar, if you wish, or it’s ready to enjoy now.

GK 90 Domaine Faiveley, Nuits Saint Georges, “Les Montroziers”, Burgundy, France, 2021 This classic Burgundy red charms with deep ruby red variations on the glass.

On the nose, the aromas of ripe black and red cherry are followed by notes of wild mushroom and fine herbs. It is elegant on the palate, medium-bodied, with pleasant acidity for a long finish.

It has great potential for cellaring and revisiting in 5 to 8 years, this is a beauty.

GK 89

GK 95 Niedeldieke, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, 2019 Hand-crafted by Mr. Robert Foley himself. “The Ne-Del-De-Kay, a distinguished class of individuals whose quality of character make marked contributions to the brotherhood of man. You may have a chance to meet them.” Niedeldieke opens with ripe black and red fruit. There are hints of espresso, supple fine tannins, and an opulent lush mouth feel—complex, well balanced, and powerful. Long finish and richness till the end.

GK 96

Giacomo Fenocchio, Barolo, Cannubi, Piedmont, Italy - 2017 This is the traditional winemaking style for Barolo in Piedmont, with Barolos that show a good initial opening of spice, red fruit, and balsamic aromas. On the palate, this wine shows elegant red cherry and super fine tannins, packed with great structural complexity and bright acidity. This is a well-balanced wine. White truffles are calling this wine a great match.

GK 90

Inspiration from the Heart The Artistry of Fernando Silva Mirrors his Approach to Wine Tasting A Journey Through the Senses Golf Kitchen’s wine columnist Fernando Silva is a man of many talents. He took a circuitous route from his Argentinian roots via Europe, Florida, and eventually to New York, to become the sommelier and wine director at GlenArbor Golf Club, one of the most prestigious clubs in the metropolitan area.

How does a man of international experience, who works long hours and is “on stage” continuously decompress after a day at the club? By expressing his emotions and feelings in layers and layers across large canvases. Yes, Fernando Silva is an artist—a very talented and dedicated painter. He calls it his “hobby” but from all appearances, it’s his passion.

As is evident in the photos on this page Fernando’s use of color, broad strokes, and acrylic layers— sometimes 10 to 20 at a time—transforms blank canvases into stunning paintings. His best work often comes at night, as the energy and stress of the day subside and from his heart, the vision evolves.

Often, he paints for five or six hours straight, lets the work rest, and days later returns to add finishing touches.

His hallmark—a poker or tarot card added to the piece—is sealed with a coat of lacquer as the finishing touch. Fernando’s work has hung in galleries from coast to coast, in offices of U.S. presidents, and been showcased at Art Basel in Miami.

“When I am present, I realize that a moment doesn’t last forever. I connect with the painting in a different realm, I try to capture these ethereal moments on the canvas, so that they will become perpetual experiences for everyone.”

For an additional look at the art of Fernando Silva, access his Instagram page @bacchusbysilva.

Artworks top to bottom: • • •

The Clubhouse at GlenArbor Golf Club Venus of Grand Central The Clubhouse at Omaha Country Club

An Italian Heritage through Pasta Thomas Isidori, Executive Chef, Brae Burn Country Club When I reminisce about childhood memories and families, I go back to the greatest childhood ever— mine. Sunday dinners at Nanny’s house, the basement apartment of a huge, three-family red brick house at 236 Seminary Avenue in the middle of Yonkers, New York. White and green metal awnings hung over the entry doors, across the street from St. Joseph’s Seminary.

Nanny owned this house, and we lived on the 2nd floor while my Uncle Sammy (Nanny’s brother) and Aunt Henny lived on the main floor. The fresh smell of mint filled the air from the garden as you entered through a 200-pound glass storm door.

The chatter and laughter of those gathered echoed throughout a rectangular-shaped kitchen, decorated in ceramic sunflower platters, vases, and bowls and 1970’s hues of avocado green, mustard yellow and shades of brown. Rosemarie (my sister), Joe (my brother), and I spent all day Sunday watching cartoons on a TV that housed a stereo system the size of a hybrid Toyota.

Watching over us was an oil painting of Nanny’s – her pride and joy: Thomas (my father), his twin brother Donald, and her oldest son Arthur. Today, I proudly display this family heirloom in my home, a symbol of my family pride, heritage, and a time as a carefree kid.

Sundays were for families and for feasting. A time lost long ago when you showed up without an invitation, when the door was always open, and you brought friends along. You came as a stranger and left with arms filled with shopping bags filled with leftovers.

The aroma of an easier time and comfort simmering on the stove, the Sunday gravy (yes, gravy not sauce) the masterpiece. Fresh garden tomato sauce with rolled pork skin and knuckles, the meatballs, store fresh pork hot sausage, and the braciolas rolled and held together with toothpicks. The platters of antipasto laid out on the kitchen table, the fresh mozzarella still warm, sliced with huge bright red juicy tomatoes from the garden, Nanny’s green bean and red onion salad, sliced meats, marinated vegetables, a metric ton of fresh seafood salad, and of course, bread—crusty on the outside and like a cloud on the inside. At any given time, we’d break off pieces of bread to dip into the pot on the stove or steal a meatball while Nanny was making gnocchi or spaghetti for the late 50

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Sadly, in this crazy world we live in today, these family times are few and far between. Conversation has become a struggle, other than via a text. Holiday gatherings have become a challenge with families scattered near and far, away from their roots. My children and their cousins—my nieces and nephews—have lost a huge part of our family heritage and what I consider to be the greatest times of my life. That’s why even today—decades later—pasta evokes warm and special memories every time I make it.

Pasta is an art. You need to feel it. Sure, today you can buy it in a box, and anybody can boil water. But to be a true pastaio or pastaia you must have a love for the art of making pasta. Patience is the key to success, as it is with everything worth waiting for in this world. Pasta is no different and it can go horribly wrong if you don’t pay close attention.

Chef has started the process of gnocchi dough using ricotta cheese.

Chef is mixing the gnocchi dough by hand.

“Un Giorno senza pasta e come un giorno senza sole.”

“A day without Pasta is like a Day without Sunshine” There’s a plethora of YouTube videos on the topic of pasta making. There are all sorts of different pasta making equipment, too, from Kitchen Aid attachments, hand crank pasta machines, and even restaurant grade pasta machines that do it all for you.

There are endless and overwhelming options when it comes to pasta, so I will share a few tricks, tips and recipes. During my career I’ve made pasta in many ways: eggs/no eggs, tap water/Pellegrino water, splash of olive oil/no olive oil. Throughout my journeys abroad and through trial and error, I have concluded it’s personal.

For me, it’s the heritage of family and our traditions. And, like my theory of cooking, it’s what you enjoy eating.

Chefs have thick skins and most of us have opinions. As chefs, we strive for the best. Here’s my “opinion” and professional advice for making pasta.

Start with a great pasta flour preferably a hardy winter wheat, like Caputo’s flour. Make sure it is fresh and not expired. If you decide to use eggs, use a farm fresh egg.

When adding water, use a great one like San Pellegrino.

But most of all, make it fun and exciting. Make cooking at home a family affair. If you’re making pasta in your work kitchen, get your employees involved. I find that pasta making is a great way to learn more about my employees and becomes almost therapeutic as compared to what can often be a crazy time in the kitchen.

For Hand Mixed and Kneaded Dough Ratio: • 1 cup of Semola di Grano Duro (Caputo’s Brand) • 1 whole large Egg or (2 yolks, if you want a richer yellow pasta) • 1 to 2 Tablespoons of Water (if needed) Place flour on a cutting board creating a well; add the eggs and 1 Tablespoon of water. Mix by working the dough for 15 minutes or longer. It is nearly impossible to over mix or over work the gluten. However, it’s very easy to underwork the pasta.

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Am I crazy? No salt?

Yes, no salt. Trust me, that’s why we salt the water. Salt removes moisture. Have you ever seen a pasta dough that you knew was perfect when you placed it in the fridge, yet the next day its speckled and looks like it has crystals? Yes, the salt did its job and ruined your dough.

After the rest period, you are free to start rolling the dough. Remember when rolling the dough always start with the thickest and work your way down to the thinnest. Don’t forget to fold and roll at least 5 times thru the thickest, before you start making the sheets thinner and thinner.

Cut as soon as you’re done rolling. Don’t let the sheets start to dry out as your pasta will crack and break as its runs through the cutting wheels.

Nest the dough, don’t hang. Make portion nests ( wrap the pasta around your hand 2 or 3 times to create a birds nest) of the cut pasta for easy handling. Don’t dry the pasta. If you want dried pasta, buy it in the box!

Cook the pasta in heavily salted boiling water no longer than 3 minutes and always finish it for at least a minute in the sauce so it has time to absorb the flavors. You get some of that great starch in the sauce also.

Chef Note: You can cheat by using a dough hook on your kitchen mixer, but make sure you work it by hand for the last 5 minutes. This is what I use for sheet pasta and anything that will be stuffed.

I have learned, experimented and through lots of trial and error, perfected the art of making pasta dough. If you would like a colored or flavored pasta dough, such as spinach, use the dehydrated powder (they come in every flavor), simply add 1 tablespoon of powder and 1 extra tablespoon of water to the dough from the start. For flavors—like a squid ink pasta—add 1 Tablespoon of the liquid (in this case, squid ink), instead of water.

Dough should be slightly tacky as you’re working, but as it comes together and you have given the flour a chance to hydrate, it becomes cohesive, smooth, and firm.

For Pasta Extruding Machines

Let it rest a minimum of 30 minutes. I typically let it rest 1 to 2 hours and sometimes, overnight.

Making pasta using a machine is still accomplished by feel and eyeballing the dough. While I will provide loose measurements, it’s all about the look and the feel. The key to success is wet crumbling sand. If you squeeze the

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dough in your hand it should form, and when you break it apart it should crumble. We are extruding the pasta, so some principles change in this alternative process. I personally only use water, never eggs. I also use a pinch of baking soda and salt and I only use sparkling mineral water. Any powder flavoring is mixed well into the flour before I add the water.

This recipe is for a pasta machine and may be scaled as needed.

• • • •

1 bag (2.2 pounds) of Semolina di Grano Duro (Caputo’s Brand) 1/2 Tablespoon Baking Powder (for a better bite; but this is not needed and personal preference) 1 Tablespoon Salt 17 to 20 ounces of San Pellegrino Sparkling Water

Add everything but the water to the hopper and mix for 3 minutes. Add water and mix until you achieve the wet sand consistency. Turn machine off and let the flour hydrate for at least 15 minutes. Mix again checking for consistency. If good, start the extruding process.

If you are using the Kitchen Aid extruder attachments follow the directions above but in a food processor instead of the hopper of the pasta machine. Pulse the flour and water versus letting the food processor run at full speed. Then, load the top of the Kitchen Aid and proceed with your pasta extruding.

Chef is using his favorite water to start the extruding dough passed through a pasta machine.

Chef is using a food processor for his pesto, which will be used when making hte gnocchi.

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Ricotta Gnocchi Pasta • • • • •

1 pound Ricotta (pressed, fresh) 4 large Egg Yolks 1 cup Caputo’s Pasta Fresca e GnocchiFlour (plus some for dusting) 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano (freshly micro planed) 1 teaspoon of Salt

Place the ricotta in a strainer lined with a cheese cloth and press overnight. I use a few plates to help press the water out of the ricotta cheese.

This is a fast mix so do not over work the dough. Combine everything in a stainless-steel bowl and mix just until everything is incorporated. The dough should be soft and a little sticky but hold its shape. You can adjust, if needed, by adding a little of the flour.

Shape into a disk and allow to rest for 30 minutes in the fridge. This will also help firm up the dough.

When ready, cut your gnocchi disk into 8 or 10 equal wedges and roll with floured hand until you achieve a 3/4--inch rope. Next, cut the gnocchi cylinder into 3/4-inch pieces, lightly dust and continue until all the gnocchi is rolled and cut.

With your gnocchi board, the back of a fork or even a sushi mat, gently press your thumb in the center of a gnocchi and roll the gnocchi away from you.

Place on a floured sheet tray in the fridge until ready to cook. Place the gnocchi in heavily salted boiling water until the gnocchi floats for about 45 to 60 seconds.

Remove the gnocchi from the Boiling water and straight into the sauce, I like to let the gnocchi simmer in the sauce to make sure it absorbs the flavor of the sauce you are using.

Potato Gnocchi very simple!

Same procedure as above, just replace the ricotta for riced warm potatoes.

• •

4 large Idaho Potatoes (scrubbed, with skin left on) 1 gallon boiling Salted Water

Place the whole potatoes into the boiling salted water and boil until knife tender.

Remove from the water and place on a sheet tray; allow to cool to the touch.

Peel potatoes and place them thru either a ricer or a food mill fitted with the smallest holes.

Weigh out one pound and follow the directions for the ricotta gnocchi.

Lastly, I would like to share with you a versatile shaping pasta dough, used to make cavatelli, gnocchi sardana, busiate, trofie and countless other popular shapes and stamps.

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Ricotta Gnocchi Pasta

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Chef uses a traditonal pasta board to roll out hand shaped pasta.

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Cavatelli Pasta Dough

Add the heavy cream and season with salt and pepper, then cook. Reduce until thick and creamy.

• • •

When pasta is ready add a few ounces of the pasta water to the sauce (just enough reserved pasta water for a little flavor and to achieve a creamy well-coated pasta), plus the butter, half the cheese and the chiffonade of parsley.

Toss the pasta into the sauce adjusting consistency with the pasta water, if needed.

(an eggless, universal, shaping pasta dough) 2 cups Semolina di Grano Duro (Caputo’s Brand) 3/4 cup (warm to the touch) Water 1/2 teaspoon Salt

Mix the salt with the flour.

Make a well in the center of the flour on the work surface.

In the center of the well add the warm water and with your fingers, start to work the flour into the water until you can knead the dough.

This dough will be soft and smooth, not tacky. This should take around 12 minutes to achieve. Remember, you can’t over work the gluten.

Wrap with plastic wrap and rest on the counter for 30 minutes.

Place in serving bowl and garnish with the rest of the cheese.

Arrabbiata Sauce • • • • • • •

Shape the pasta how you would like and place in the fridge until you are ready to cook.

Let’s Talk Sauce!

Always have a few key sauces in your arsenal. Here are some of my personal favorites.

Always finish your pasta in the sauce.

Pasta water, never throw it out until your sauce is complete, pasta water adds some starchiness, flavor and helps finish the pasta while its in the sauce.

Vodka Sauce • • • • • • • • • • • • •

4 Tablespoons Olive Oil 2 large Shallots (sliced thin) 6 cloves Garlic (sliced) 6 ounces Prosciutto (sliced and roughly chopped) 1 cup Vodka 1 cup Mutti Tomato Paste 1 Tablespoon Calabrian Chili Paste 1 1/2 cups Heavy Cream Reserved Pasta Water (enough to thin the sauce) 4 ounces Butter, (cubed) 3/4 cup Reggiano (microplaned) Salt and Pepper (to taste) 1/4 bunch Flat Leaf Italian Parsley (chiffonade)

In a saucepan on medium, heat the olive oil, garlic and shallot until almost golden brown. Add the prosciutto and sauté for 2 minutes, then deglaze with the vodka.

• • •

1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil 20 cloves Garlic (sliced) 1/2 Tablespoon Red Pepper Flakes (crushed) 10 Cherry Peppers (chopped) 3 Tablespoons Mutti Tomato Paste 1 cup White Wine 1 #10 can or 6 pound and 7 ounce can of a high quality whole peeled San Marzano Tomatoes, hand crush all together (I love Ciao Brand) 1 bunch Basil Leaves (chiffonade, divided) Salt and Pepper (to taste) 4 ounces Butter (cubed)

In a saucepan heat the olive oil and add the sliced garlic.

When garlic is browned add the crushed red pepper and the chopped cherry peppers, cook for 1 minute to gently toast the pepper flakes.

Add the tomato paste and cook until the tomato paste becomes bright red and aromatic.

Deglaze with the white wine and cook 2 to 3 minutes just until all the alcohol is cooked off.

Add the hand crushed tomatoes and bring to a quick simmer. Allow sauce to develop by simmering for 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning and heat to your desired level.

Add 3/4 of the basil and remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Reheat as needed.

When pasta is ready, toss in the warm sauce with butter, plate and hit it with Reggiano parmigiano on top, then add more fresh basil and olive oil.

Chef Note: To make Marinara sauce, omit all of the hot pepper flakes and the chopped cherry peppers.

Add the tomato paste and the chili paste and activate (takes about 3 minutes).

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pepper and serve immediately.

Chef’s note: In order to not make scrambled eggs, all this is done off the heat and nothing is at a boiling point.

Buon Appetito! ~ Thomas Isidori

Creamy Pesto with Sun-Dried Tomatoes & Toasted Pine Nuts Pesto: • 3 cups Basil Leaves (washed, spun and packed tightly) • 3/4 cup Olive Oil (very fresh and fragrant) • 2/3 cups Pine Nuts (lightly toasted) • 15 cloves Garlic (roasted) • Salt (to taste) • 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano (microplaned)

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In a sauté pan add the pesto, cream, tomatoes, and butter; bring to a low simmer and heat just until all the butter is melted.

Add the pasta of your choice and mix well, if it’s too thick, add a splash of the pasta water, check seasoning and plate, topping with more cheese and toasted pine nuts if desired.

Carbonara

Place all ingredients in a blender or food processor and puree just until it is all blended and smooth, try avoiding going so long that it starts to heat up.

• • • • •

To finish the sauce: • 2 cups heavy cream • 3/4 cup Sundried Tomatoes (julienned) • 4 ounces Butter

Chef Note: If using dried pasta, I like to start the pasta and the sauce at the same time.

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1 pound Guanciale (diced small) 4 large whole Eggs 1 cup Pecorino Romano (micro-grated) Reserve 1 cup of Pasta Water Freshly ground Black Pepper (to taste)

In a sauté pan start to render the guanciale down until golden brown.Meanwhile mix eggs and cheese together and set aside When guanciale has rendered and is golden brown remove from the heat and let sit for 2 minutes before adding the pasta. (Do not remove the rendered fat) While still off the heat and pasta and guanciale is mixed, deglaze with a small amount of pasta water and allow to sit for one minute.

While still off the heat add the egg mixture and toss until all the pasta is covered, if the sauce is too thick, add a touch of the salted pasta water.

Finish with a few pinches of the fresh ground black pepper and serve immediately. Chef’s note: In order to not make scrambled eggs, all this is done off the heat and nothing is at a boiling point.

Buon Appetito!

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The Influencer: Cultivating Culinary Interest

At Food, Fun & Faraway Places, Kelly Stilwell’s Goal is to Bring Food & Travel Together

As important as a mentor may be to cultivating a culinary career, the impact and importance of social media can’t be overlooked. Many of us enjoy seeing photos of beautiful food, exquisite presentations, and finding recipes via social media – from Instagram to TikTok. Kelly Stilwell, the creator of Food, Fun & Faraway Places, has made a livelihood from her travels, food discoveries, and recipes. She is an influencer to home chefs, foodies, and her followers, who often live vicariously through Kelly’s posts and international travels.

GK: What is the balance of breakdown of the content you post - travel/food/recipes?

GK: What is the biggest misconception about influencing and use of social media?

Most of the travel photos are mine. On a rare occasion, I might use a stock image if my photo didn’t turn out well and I want to include a particular historic or popular site.

For recipes, I do have a handful of recipe developers who create recipes for me. It can take days to create, test, and photograph a single recipe, and I just can’t find the time to do it all.

People think I am always on vacation! They don’t realize what I do on trips, how I could be in my room posting on Instagram at one o’clock in the morning if I’m in a different time zone than my readers in the U.S. They see a dozen or so photos in an article, but I probably took 200 of that destination to get the 12 they see.

I don’t think the average person understands the amount of work that goes into the job. They think it’s simply a matter of going on a trip and posting to social media. It’s taken me 12 years to build my followers to over 350,000, and that’s why I’m invited to work with so many travel brands. I also must keep up with trends and changes on each social channel. It’s a tremendous amount of work.

GK: How do you gauge success in what you do?

My success comes in two forms; happy readers/followers and clients who are pleased with my work. If my readers and followers are growing and visiting Food, Fun & Faraway Places, I know I’m doing something right. I have a couple of analytics programs that help me track those statistics. When clients are pleased with the way I’ve showcased their products or destinations, I know they will tell others and I’ll continue to have those opportunities to travel.

GK: How much time per week do you spend working your channels?

Just the social editing and posting aspect of the business takes about 15-20 hours per week.

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I post two food/recipe articles for every one travel article.

I’d like to increase that this year, but the travel articles take a lot more time between SEO, research, and editing photos. I can easily spend 4-5 days on a travel article versus 1-2 days on a recipe. I currently have more than 25 articles I still want to write from trips I took in 2023.

GK: Do you take all your own photos?

GK: Are your recipes original or derived from things you’ve tried or places you’ve visited? Do you test them via trial and error? Who has the final pronouncement on the success of a recipe?

I have a bit of everything as far as recipes go. I may see a recipe that has a lot of search volume on Google and recreate it. I do recreate dishes I’ve tasted in other countries, which is always fun, especially if I was able to bring back a handful of ingredients, like spices or liqueurs. Testing the recipes is usually a good experience for my family, but there have been occasions where the recipe never made it to my website. Maybe we didn’t love the flavor or the texture, or perhaps it was just too difficult to make in the end. Even if the recipe is delicious, if my readers don’t click on it or make it, it’s not a success.

A real win is when a dish has incredible flavor and my readers go crazy over it, like my Maryland Crab Dip. ~by Karen Moraghan

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Maryland Crab Dip Ingredients • • • • • • •

4 ounces Cream Cheese (1/2 package, softened). Chef Note: I use Neufchatel light cream cheese.

1/2 cup Mayonnaise 1 teaspoon Old Bay (plus more for topping) 1/4 teaspoon Dry Mustard 8 ounces Crab Meat Lump 1 Tablespoon Gouda Cheese (shredded) 1 Tablespoon Cheddar Cheese (shredded)

Preparation Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix the softened cream cheese with mayonnaise, Old Bay Seasoning, and dry mustard in a large bowl with an electric mixer until smooth. Gently fold in lump crab meat, being careful not to break up the lumps. Spoon dip into an oven-safe dish. Sprinkle with the cheeses. Sprinkle with extra Old Bay Seasoning. Bake for 30 minutes. Brown slightly under a broiler on low.

Optional: Top with sliced green onions.

Assembly Serve the crab dip with crackers, tortilla chips, or a baguette sliced and toasted.

Chef Note: Make sure to use a block of cream cheese, not a spread. Allow it to come to room temperature before mixing. You can use light mayo and Neufchatel (light) cream cheese to save calories.

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Following the Path to Private Club Chefdom From Restaurant Chef to Commanding a Private Club Kitchen is not Without Forks in the RoadeE The transition from restaurant chef to private club chef may be a slippery slope, with a few surprises and revelations along the way.

Stephen Yen is a renowned restaurant chef and a graduate of the French Culinary Institute (ICC) who successfully transitioned to the club industry. For the past two seasons, he has served as Executive Chef of Liberty National Golf Club, one of the finest golf properties in the country. In this wide-ranging interview, Stephen shares how he overcame the often-tricky transition from the restaurant to the club industry.

GK: Liberty National is one of the finest golf properties in the country, with many influential members, including captains of industry and celebrities. What was your journey to land this position?

Transitioning from a restaurant to a golf or country club can be challenging. Although many restaurants have frequent customers or “regulars,” for the most part, it’s new people customers coming in to dine each day or evening. In a typical restaurant, you can predict how much product you will need each night, but in a club, it’s different. One of my biggest hurdles was determining what the members wanted and preferred. It wasn’t just about having a menu and saying no to requests for items not listed. I had to be accommodating and flexible, even if it meant sourcing ingredients that were not usually kept on hand.

Managing inventory and ensuring everything was fresh was challenging, but getting to know the members was even more critical. I had to become highly engaged with them to learn their tastes and anticipate their needs.

In doing so, I asked questions—lots of questions—and checked in often regarding their dining experiences.

By doing so, I was able to build strong relationships and provide better service.

In the restaurant kitchen, I was used to the same ingredients, measurements, and techniques. It was familiar and while comfortable, it also limited my creativity.

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I have grown to love cooking for the members at Liberty National. Success comes from being open to their input and feedback. Flexibility is key. Members may have a favorite pasta sauce, but prefer an alternative type of pasta. Or they may have a special recipe they want me to try out. Whatever it is, I’m willing to listen and adjust. It’s Another learning curve is timing. In a club kitchen, there can be a great deal of waiting. Then, all the golfers come in simultaneously. There may be no dinner reservations; minutes later, a member shows up with 12 guests, and we’re creating a last-minute wine dinner. I need to know our wines in-house; we must have the glasses polished and the food and wine pairings perfected in minutes.

In a club kitchen, making use of downtime is crucial. I’ve learned to make sauces, create rubs for different meats, and prep marinades, so we are ready to go. You don’t know when you’ll get hit hard with diners, so you must have the ammunition at the ready!

GK: How did you build your team?

Assembling a team was challenging. I inherited some staff who were familiar with the club and its kitchen.

Then, I hired restaurant staff who had to learn new skills and adapt to a new environment. Additionally, the club’s location in Jersey City made it difficult for some potential employees to commute, as public transportation options are limited.

During interviews, I had to be careful not to ask questions regarding the mode of transportation and to use specific wording to ensure we remained legally compliant. We’ve been able to overcome this challenge by establishing and utilizing carpools. We’ve built a great team here, and I am proud of the hard work they put in every day.

GK: What are some drawbacks of working in a club setting?

Although working in a club setting is rewarding, some drawbacks exist. For example, even if an employee loves the job, they may be laid off after just eight months due to seasonality, which can be a significant source of stress

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and uncertainty. This is especially true for cooks and dishwashers who may need more financial stability and a steady, year-round income stream.

The Clubhouse from the 18th hole.

Image courtesy Liberty National Golf Club.

GK: How did you address this issue?

I hire part-time staff from local New Jersey restaurants to help ensure that everyone has enough work to keep them financially afloat. Having the right approach and mindset can also be a rewarding and fulfilling experience for everyone.

GK: How do you keep the camaraderie in the kitchen, especially for a seasonal club?

Camaraderie in the kitchen is crucial, especially in a seasonal club like Liberty National. I foster a team mentality by encouraging open communication, supporting each other, and celebrating small victories.

We have regular team meetings to discuss challenges and successes and work together to find solutions. I also recognize exceptional work and show appreciation for my team’s efforts. By creating a positive and supportive environment, we can collaborate seamlessly and efficiently, even during the busiest times of the year.

GK: What advice do you have for restaurant chefs wishing to transition to a club position? What are the positives and negatives?

I advise restaurant chefs wishing to consider a club position to trail a club chef for more than one day; this holds true for any management role. When you first assume the position, you’ll think of many changes that must be made. Breathe…and spend some time observing before implementing positive changes that include everyone’s input.

Chefs may find that the line-level employees and the members resist change. I recommend planting the seeds and letting them grow organically. If you come out swinging, the whole equilibrium of the kitchen will be disrupted. Listen to the employees about members’ requests and gain insights as to what food and beverages they enjoy.

The positive elements of being a club chef are better hours than my last restaurant, where the kitchen closed at 2 am. The negative aspects would be the off-season or downtime, which isn’t a negative for everyone. Some, like me, who worked in a New York City kitchen, are used to going 100 miles per hour year-round!

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The Clubhouse from the 18th hole.

Image courtesy Liberty National Golf Club.

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LIBERTY NATIONAL CEVICHE with “Leche de Tigre,” & Puri Shells Yield: 4

Ingredients •

1 pound fresh Fluke (will be used in total for 4 servings)

“Leche de Tigre” Sauce • 70 grams Fluke, use trim Chef Note: This thickens and adds a mouthfeel to the sauce.

• 300 grams Lime Juice • 100 grams Lemon Juice • 100 grams Ice • 100 grams Sugar • 15 grams Aji Amarillo • 30 grams Red Onion • 4 grams Jalapeno (no seeds) • 50 grams Cilantro (stem is ok) Puri Shells from Flat Puri • Flat puris (store-bought) • Vegetable Oil (for deep frying) Garnish • 3 ounces Fluke (per serving, thinly sliced) • 20 grams of Toasted Cancha (crispy corn nuts used for garnish) • 2 grams Jalapeno (sliced) • 2 grams Red Fresno Chili (sliced) • 4 grams Red Onion (sliced) • 1 gram Cilantro Leaves • 5 grams Asian Pear (sliced) • 3 pieces fried Puri Shells Chef Note: Purchase at a local Indian grocery or on Amazon, look up “flat puri.”)

Preparation “Leche de Tigre” Sauce In a blender (Vita Prep), combine the fluke trim, lime juice, lemon juice, ice, sugar, Aji Amarillo, red onion, jalapeno, and cilantro. Blend until well combined and smooth.

Marinate the Fluke: Place the thinly sliced fluke in a shallow dish or bowl. Pour the prepared Leche de Tigre over the fluke, ensuring it is fully submerged. Cover and refrigerate for about 20-30 minutes, allowing the acid from the citrus to cook the fish. Stir occasionally to ensure even marination. Chef Note: While the fluke is marinating, prepare the plating elements. Slice the roasted sweet potato into 2 slices per serving. Thinly slice the red onion, jalapeno, red fresno chili, and Asian pear.

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Puri Shells Prepare the Flat Puris: Chef Note: Using store-bought flat puris, ensure they are at room temperature. Ensure they are cooked through and have a golden color. Let them cool completely.

Heat the Oil: Pour vegetable oil into a deep, heavy-bottomed pan or a deep fryer. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it reaches about 350°F to 375°F (175°C to 190°C).

Fry the Flat Puris: Carefully place one flat puri into the hot oil. It should immediately start to puff up. Using a slotted spoon, gently press the center of the puri into the oil, allowing the edges to puff up while maintaining a depression in the center. Chef Note: This creates the hollow shell shape.

Fry Until Crisp: Fry the puri for about 20-30 seconds on one side until it puffs completely and turns light golden in color. Flip it gently using the slotted spoon and fry the other side for another 20-30 seconds until it is uniformly golden brown and crispy.

Drain and Cool: Once done, carefully remove the puri from the oil using a slotted spoon, allowing excess oil to drain off. Place it on a plate lined with paper towels to absorb any remaining oil.

Repeat the Process: Continue frying the rest of the flat puris in the same manner, ensuring each one becomes a hollow puri shell.

Cool Completely: Let the puri shells cool down completely before storing or using them for serving with your desired fillings.

The view from the 14th hole.

Image courtesy Liberty National Golf Club.

Assembly Chef Note: Once the fluke has marinated adequately and has a slightly opaque appearance, it is ready to serve.

Divide the marinated fluke among 4 plates. Garnish each plate with 6 pieces of Cancha (fried corn nuts), 2 slices of roasted sweet potato, thinly sliced red onion, and Asian pear.

Wine Pairing I like to pair our ceviche with a champagne because it’s a mini celebration any time you are enjoying our ceviche on a nice sunny day. In this particular pairing I recommend a Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs. ~ Stephen Yen, Executive Chef

The view from the 14th hole.

Image courtesy Liberty National Golf Club.

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LIBERTY NATIONAL TUNA TARTARE with Yuzu Ponzu Sauce & Creamy Shallot and Jalapeño Guacamole Yield: 4

Ingredients • • • • • •

400 grams Yellowfin Tuna (finely diced) Salt (to taste) Extra virgin Olive Oil Black Sesame Tapioca Cracker (recipe follows) Furikake Rice Seasoning Ponzu (recipe follows)

Yuzu Ponzu Sauce Yield: Approximately 1 cup • 120 grams Soy Sauce • 60 grams Yuzu Juice (substitute with a mix of lemon and lime juice if yuzu is unavailable) • 30 grams Rice Vinegar • 30 grams Mirin (sweet rice wine) • 5 grams Sugar Creamy Shallot and Jalapeño Guacamole • 4 ripe Avocados (approximately 600 grams) • 2 Shallots (finely diced) • 1 Jalapeño Pepper (seeds removed and finely minced) • 2 fresh Limes (juiced) • 1/2 teaspoon Salt (or, to taste)

Preparation Tuna Combine the finely diced Yellowfin Tuna in a mixing bowl with a pinch of salt and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Mix gently to coat the tuna evenly. Adjust seasoning if needed. Set Aside. Chef Note: Cover the seasoned tuna mixture and set it in the refrigerator while preparing the guacamole.

Yuzu Ponzu Sauce Combine the Base Ingredients: In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, yuzu juice (or lemon-lime mixture), rice vinegar, mirin, and sugar.

Heat the Mixture: Place the saucepan over low heat. Occasionally, stir the mixture until it warms up. Chef Note: Avoid bringing it to a boil. This step assists in dissolving the sugar and melding the flavors.

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Cool and Store: Let the yuzu ponzu sauce cool to room temperature. Once cooled, transfer it to an airtight container or bottle for storage.

Chill Before Use. Chef Note: Refrigerate the yuzu ponzu sauce for at least an hour before using. Chilling allows the flavors to meld further.

Creamy Shallot and Jalapeño Guacamole Prepare the Avocados: Cut the avocados in half lengthwise and remove the pits. Scoop out the flesh into a mixing bowl.

Mash the Avocados: Use a fork or a potato masher to mash the avocados until smooth.

Add Ingredients: Add the finely diced shallots, minced jalapeño, lime juice, and salt to the mashed avocados.

Mix and Season: Mix all the ingredients together until smooth.

Black Sesame Tapioca Cracker Chef Note: Purchase black sesame tapioca crackers. These crackers are usually flat and come in various shapes and sizes at local Asian grocery.

Heat the Oil: Pour vegetable oil into a frying pan or skillet, filling it with enough oil to submerge the crackers during frying. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it reaches around 350°F to 375°F (175°C to 190°C).

Fry the Crackers: Carefully add a few tapioca crackers to the oil once the oil is hot. Chef Note: Don’t overcrowd the pan; ensure there is enough space between the crackers for even frying. Fry the crackers for approximately 30 seconds to 1 minute on each side or until they turn golden brown and become crispy.

Drain and Cool: Use a slotted spoon or tongs to remove the fried crackers from the oil. Place them on a plate lined with paper towels to drain any excess oil. Let the fried crackers cool down completely before serving.

Assembly Take the marinated Yellowfin tuna out of the refrigerator.

Spoon the tuna tartare onto one half of a black sesame tapioca cracker. Using a piping bag, pipe ribbons of the guacamole on the opposing side of the cracker. Sprinkle furikake on top and serve the ponzu on the side. Chef Note: We use a pipette for that extra bit of presentation.

Wine Pairing A glass of Rosé, Vueve Clicquot. The crisp brightness is a perfect match for our sushi grade yellowfin tuna. Bubbles of all variations are becoming increasingly popular on the course.

Sometimes you need to enjoy the moment and just sip in the sun. ~ Stephen Yen, Executive Chef

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The view of Lady Liberty from the 17th hole.

Image courtesy Liberty National Golf Club.

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Clubhouse Cocktails 34* North, 5* West (Fez) Inspired by Chef Zouhair Bellout~ Reynolds Lake Oconee~ Gettin’ Figgy Wit It Ingredients Moroccan Spiced Orange • 6 ea. Orange Slices • 1 teaspoon Cinnamon • 1 Tablespoon Brown Sugar • 1 pod Green Cardamom Gettin’ Figgy Wit It • 3/4 ounce Mahia Fig Liqueur • 1/2 ounce Grand Marnier • 1 1/2 ounces Empress Gin Garnish • Moroccan Spice Orange Wheel • Mint Sprig

Preparation Moroccan Spice Orange Thinly slice orange wheels. Grind the sugar, cinamon and green cardamom seeds together in a spice grinder. Sprinkle onto the orange wheels and burlee with a torch.

Gettin’ Figgy Wit It Fill a specialty rocks glass with ice. Add the Grand Marnier, Mahia Fig, liqueur, Empress Gin and top with fresh squeezed lemon juice, Empress Gin and soda water. Garnish with the Moroccan spiced orange wheel and a sprig of mint.

Inspiration For this cocktail, we travel to Fez, Morocco for inspiration. Fez is the birthplace of our Executive Chef Zouhair Bellout. In his honor, we use a Moroccan spirit for the base of this drink. Mahia is a spirit derived from distilled figs and has a hint of aniseed. Mahia liqueur is widely considered the national spirit of Morocco, representing the country’s rich cultural history. We further enhance this celebration of Morocco in the orange garnish, which is spiced with an array of aromatics and caramelized. The herbaceous botanicals of the gin used in this cocktail helps further highlight the notes of Moroccan spices and flavors.

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A Chef with a Mission to Give Back at Aspetuck Valley Country Club Gerard Clinton, Executive Chef at Aspetuck Valley Country Club, is a native New Yorker born and raised in Rockland County. He graduated with a Bachelor of Science in Sociology from the College of Charleston before attending the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park. Upon completing his studies at the CIA, he spent many years working with acclaimed chefs Christian Bertrand of Bertrand’s Greenwich CT, Lutèce NYC, David Burke of the Park Ave Café N.Y.C. and Steffano Battistini Four Seasons/Seagrill NYC. He established Restaurant Promis in Westport, CT, where Patricia Brooks of the New York Times raved, “The dishes were little short of sensational,” giving Chef Clinton a Three Star Rating.

Restaurant Promis was awarded Connecticut Magazine’s Best New Restaurant in Fairfield Country, stating, “Gerard Clinton climbs culinary heights with original combinations, perfectly prepared and exquisitely presented.”

During his time at Promis, Gerard was invited to cook at the James Beard House in New York City.

Chef Clinton’s present culinary home is Aspetuck Valley Country Club in Weston, Ct., where he has developed a recognized food and beverage program. He manages a Farm to Table program in which sustainable, seasonal products are grown and processed into the Aspetuck food program. Aspetuck Valley has been recognized in multiple periodicals in the Connecticut area and a televised ABC program, Born to Explore, about Farm to Table.

At Aspetuck Valley, Gerard successfully implemented an entirely new food program. Seasonal wine dinners, cooking demonstrations, guest chef dinners, pop-up restaurant themes, dry aging program, Thanksgiving and Christmas to go program, which resulted in a 300% increase, a Farm to Table program in which he oversees the half-acre Aspetuck Farm that has been in production

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for 15 years. He created the Aspetuck Farmers Market, where members can access homegrown vegetables, proteins, and prepared foods. During the pandemic, the farmers market went to a new level, producing thousands of meals a week.

Gerard has made good use of his free time over the years. He has staged in many of the top restaurants in the United States, including the French Laundry, Restaurant Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Maialino, Betony, The No Mad, Scarpeta, Blue Smoke, Aureole, Café Gray, Café Boulud, Boulud Sud, Marea, La Pavilion, La Gratin and Caelis (Barcelona). He will be traveling to Portugal this year to work at The Oitavis with Cyril Devilliers, Executive Chef.

Gerard Clinton shared his passion for traditional cooking techniques and how he encourages a paying-it-forward attitude with his culinary team in a recent interview with Golf Kitchen Magazine.

GK: Would you agree that golf and country clubs must invest in their culinary teams?

I completely agree with you. Having the right people around you can make a huge difference in success.

Investing in the right people and providing them with the proper guidance and support can help them grow and develop, benefiting the entire team and organization.

In a kitchen, having a well-trained staff who can work together efficiently and effectively is especially important. Education and proper training can make a signficant difference in the quality of the food and overall experience for customers.

GK: When did you transition from restaurants to the private club industry?

After considering it for some time, I switched from the public restaurant scene to the private club scene and

Stephen Yen, Executive Chef at Liberty National Golf Club

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have been at Aspetuck Valley CC for 21 years. The membership is remarkable and highly educated about food. As a chef, I appreciate their understanding and appreciation for our work. It’s been an unbelievable experience and an excellent match for me.

GK: What was the cuisine like when you first came here, and how did you influence change?

It was a complete overhaul. My background is very food-focused, and I have always cooked everything from scratch. Bringing a product to the table that is seasonally driven and well executed to the membership was key.

I told myself this was a regular clientele, and I would see these people every day. There are pros and cons to that, but I like to look at things positively and see this as an opportunity to change the menu often; an everyday clientele appreciates the menu changes.

GK: Tell us about the garden you have nurtured for 15 years.

could be formed to focus on this initiative. It would also be beneficial for club managers to source top food establishments and establish some sort of incentive and business “employment” relationship with them. This would provide access to top quality chefs from various kitchens, who could then be added to a Chefs Think Tank for clubs to use as a source for top talent. By doing this, both the establishment and the chefs themselves would be incentivized to work with clubs, making it easier to attract top talent. Overall, the benefits of investing in this initiative will pay dividends for the club’s future.

GK: Any words of wisdom for future club chefs?

• • • •

I took my food-focused background and passion for sustainability to the next level by starting the club’s garden 15 years ago. Growing your produce is not a trend; it is a lifestyle. Every year, I maintain around 20 raised beds that produce an impressive amount of food. During the summer, we harvest two to three thousand pounds of juicy, ripe tomatoes alongside various other delicious vegetables. Seeing the abundance that can be achieved with love and care for the earth is impressive.

Know that this is the career that you want and commit to it fully.

Be very selective in choosing who you work for early in your career.

Always keep up on ever changing industry trends and leaders.

Put as much money as you can into your 401k as soon as you can.

GK: Tell us about your team and how you foster a mentor-mentee environment.

I spend much time with the people in the kitchen, as they are a big part of it. I invest time in educating them and emphasizing the importance of paying it forward.

I am forever grateful to Christian Bertrand, who taught me many years ago. I have taken his teachings, and it’s my turn to pass on the knowledge. Some members of my team started as dishwashers in this kitchen. I can recognize certain qualities in people and invest in them, which pays dividends to the business and the operation.

The Chef is only one person; the people he selects to support the vision are essential.

GK: How can clubs aid in the effort to nurture the growth of interest in culinary careers in the private club industry?

Clubs have an advantage with financial support, and they should focus on finding and nurturing future talented chefs and culinary personnel.

It makes sense to scout for talent from a young age, just like professional athletes. A sub-committee of the CCMA

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Image left to right: Bruno Jallat, Jay Tackach-Smith, Ed Burr, Gerard Clinton, Executive Chef; Nestor Santiago, Carlo Minopoli; Sous Chef and Yong Joo, Sushi Chef.

The Tap Room.

Image by Christina Holman Forever In Focus, Inc.

"Working alongside Gerard Clinton, Executive Chef at Aspetuck Valley Country Club, has been an enriching experience from a General Manager's standpoint. Gerard is not only a classically trained chef with an impressive pedigree, honing his skills alongside culinary legends like Christian Bertrand and David Burke, but also a visionary leader in the kitchen.

As a classically trained chef, it has been gratifying to watch his creativity coming out of the kitchen.

The Tap dining room.

Image by Christina Holman Forever In Focus, Inc.

His tenure at Aspetuck Valley has been marked by a profound transformation of the club's culinary landscape. He fosters a mentor-mentee environment in the kitchen, emphasizing the importance of education, skill development, and the value of paying it forward, a philosophy he embodies daily.

His ability to recognize and nurture talent has elevated the team's capabilities and contributed to a highly motivated and cohesive kitchen staff.

As a General Manager, witnessing the club's culinary reputation flourish under Gerard's stewardship and the marked increase in member satisfaction is profoundly gratifying. Gerard's philosophy that "food has an inherent logic that evolves from tradition," coupled with his innovative strategies and commitment to tradition and quality, truly sets him apart as a chef and a culinary leader. ~Renaud Ammon, General Manager

The new kitchen.

Image by Christina Holman Forever In Focus, Inc. Golf Kitchen

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The Logic Starts Here “Food has an inherent logic that evolves from a tradition, and the chef’s personal touch sets each of us apart,” states Chef Gerard Clinton. “When developing an idea for a dish, you must take all aspects of the dish into consideration, product quality, the marriage of different flavors, textures, and colors, and always focusing on the final food presentation.”

Image: Dan Murdoch 84

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Ruby Red Grapefruit Nigri Omakasi with Cucumber Daikon & Chirashi Salad Serves: 4

Ingredients • • • •

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12 slices ea. Yellowfin Tuna, Hamachi, King Salmon 12 ea. Ruby Red Grapefruit Segments Yuzu Ponzu Wasabi Aioli Mix (1 Tablespoon Wasabi, 1/2 cup Kewpie Mayon naise) 12 ea Pickled Jalapeno (sliced) Trout Roe

Soy Yuzu Dressing • 2 cups Soy Sauce • 1 cup Yuzu • 1/2 cup Mirin • 2 ounces Ginger • 1/2 cup Honey • 2 ounces Sugar

Cucumber Daikon Chirashi Salad Place the sushi rice in the serving box and season with furikake. Mix the marinated cucumbers and daikon, then place on top of the rice. Dress with ponzu, wasabi aioli, sesame oil, micro shiso.

Assembly On a rectangle plate, Place salad box on one side with napkin underneath, Arrange 3 pieces of the different grapefruit nigari on an angle on opposite side of plate.

Wine Pairing Frogs Leap, Napa Valley 2019

Cucumber Daikon Chirashi Salad • 1 ea. English Cucumber (seeds removed, cut half-moons, salt, rest for 20 min, squeeze dry then marinate) • 1 ea. Pickled Daikon (julienne) • 4 Tablespoons Furikake • 4 ea. 4 ounce scoops cooked Sushi Rice • 4 ounces Salmon Eggs • Sesame Oil (as needed) • Yuzu Ponzu (as needed) • Micro Shiso (as needed)

Preparation Fish Cut clean suprêmes of grapefruit. Lay the fish slices over the grapefruit and secure with a paddle pick. Garnish with Ponzu, Wasabi Aioli, Jalapeno, Trout Roe Soy Yuzu Dressing Combine all the ingredients.

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An overview of the 1st, 2nd and 9th fairways.

Image courtesy Aspetuck Valley Country Club.

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Slow Cooked Wagyu “Pastrami” Short Rib with Petite French Coco Beans, Savoy Cabbage, Red Onion Confit & Ginger Chili Crisp Gastrique Serves: 4

Ingredients Pastrami Brine • 1 cup Kosher Salt • 1/2 cup Sugar • 1 Tablespoon Curing Salt • 2 Tablespoons Pickle Spice • 2 Tablespoons Black Pepper • 2 Tablespoons Mustard Seeds • 2 Tablespoons Coriander Seeds • 2 Tablespoons Hot Pepper Flakes • 1 Tablespoon Mace (ground) • 2 Bay Leaves • 1 Tablespoons Cloves • 1 Tablespoon Ginger (ground) • 1 gallon Water • 1 ea. 4 Bone-in Short Rib Plate Petite French Coco Beans • 1# Beans • 1 cup Bacon (chopped) • 1 ea. Onion (diced) • 1 ea. Carrot (diced) • 1 ea. Star Anise • 3 ea. Garlic Cloves (chopped) • Bouquet Garni • Salt (to taste) • Chicken Stock (as needed, to cover) Savoy Cabbage • 1 hand Savoy Cabbage (chiffonade) • 1 cup Bacon (chopped) • 1 ea. Onion (diced) • 1 ea. Carrot (diced) • 3 ea. Garlic Cloves (chopped) • Bouquet Garni • Salt • 1 quart Chicken Stock Ginger Chili Crisp Gastrique • 10 ounces Sugar • 5 ounces Water • 5 ounces White Wine • 1/4 cup Garlic (chopped) • 1/4 cup Shallots (chopped) • 1/4 cup Ginger (chopped) • 2 1/2 ounces Rice Vinegar

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1/2 cup Soy Sauce, plus 2 Tablespoons 1/2 cup Chili Crisp

Red Onion Confit • 1 ea. Red Onion (julienne) • 8 ounces Butter • 12 ounces Sugar • Salt • 1/2 ounce Grenadine • 1 ounce Sherry Vinegar • 4 ounces Red Wine

Preparation Pastrami Brine Chef Note: Make 3 days ahead of time. Mix all the ingredients in a saucepot and bring to a boil. Chill. Cover the short rib plate with brine for 3 days.

Place the ribs in a plastic sous vide bag and cook on steam for 140 °F overnight for 12 hours. Remove and chill. Cut into 4 bone-in ribs. Lightly dust with flour. Quickly deep fry each rib to sear the outside—place in oven until heated throughout.

Petite French Coco Beans Sauté the bacon until crisp. Add the vegetables. Sweat without color then add the beans, bouquet garni, salt, and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer.

Place in 350°F oven until tender.

Savoy Cabbage Sauté the bacon until crisp. Add the vegetables and sweat without color. Add the cut cabbage and mix with the other vegetables. Add the chicken stock, then season it with salt. Simmer for 10 min until the cabbage softens.

Ginger Chili Crisp Gastrique Combine the first three ingredients and bring to a simmer. Cook until a light caramel is formed. Mix in all the other ingredients and bring to a boil; shut off the heat.

Onion Confit Sweat the onion in butter without color. Add all of the other ingredients.

Slowly simmer until the onions are very soft.

Assembly Place Short Rib in oven until hot., Heat all garnish. Place beans down first, place small amount of cabbage on top. Arrange short rib on top of cabbage, glaze with gastrique. Garnish with onion confit.

Wine Pairing E. Guigal Saint-Joseph 2018 Golf Kitchen

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An overview of the 18th fairway.

Image courtesy Aspetuck Valley Country Club.

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Lobster Coral Encrusted Cape Sea Scallops with Roasted Sunchoke, Cauliflower, Sweet Potato Purée & Caper Lemon Brown Butter Serves: 4

Ingredients • •

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8 ea. large cap Sea Scallops 4 ea. Sunchokes (blanched)

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4 ea. Cauliflower Florets (blanched) 2 ea. cooked Hot Sweet Potatoes (use 4 Tablespoons Butter, 1 cup Cream) Salt (to taste) 1 ea. Lemon (juiced) 1/4 cup Chicken Stock

Lobster Coral Crust • 2 1/2 ounces Lobster Coral • 2# Butter • 15 ounces Breadcrumbs

Preparation

Assembly

Pan-roast the cooked sunchokes and cauliflower with one tablespoon of butter until lightly caramelized. While the potatoes are hot, purée with the hot cream and butter. Season with salt. Hard sear the scallops in a sauté pan on both sides, remove, and place on a metal platter. Place the sliced lobster coral on top of each scallop—place in the broiler to melt and cook the coral. The crust will become red. Add butter to the pan to melt, squeeze fresh lemon juice, and add chicken stock. Bring to a boil. Slowly swirl in the butter and add the capers.

Using a coupe like plate, smear sweet potato puree in center of plate, place a piece of roasted cauliflower and sun choke in center of puree, place scallops on either side of vegetables. Drizzle sauce around , garnish with micro greens.

Wine Pairing Pouilly Fuisse, LA Collonge, 2021

Lobster Coral Crust Purée altogether, roll like compound butter and freeze.

When frozen cut into quarter-size slices.

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Where Art meets Fine Wine ExeE

Stroll the aisles of your favorite wine purveyor and certain bottles are likely to catch your eye. Not simply due to vintage, but because of the beautiful labels.

Some vintners have married art and wine for decades. Since 1945 Chauteau Mouton Rothschild has worked with the world’s most celebrated artists to create artwork for labels. Today Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild, co-owner of the first growth, is responsible for artistic and cultural matters at the estate. He recently unveiled the artwork for its 2021 label, featuring a painting by award-winning international artist Chiharu Shiota. The art depicts the silhouette of a single human figure holding strings attached to a floating cluster of what could be balloons or grapes, evoking the fragile balance between nature and humans.

According to Rothschild, ““Each label for Château Mouton Rothschild is exciting, each one has its own story and each one is unique. That makes it impossible for me to choose, though I can well understand that wine-lovers will have their own preferences, influenced by both the vintage and the label.”

Among the artists who have created artwork for labels over the years include Jeff Koons, Gerhard Richter, Williams Kentridge, and even HRH Prince Charles (now King Charles), who allowed the Mouton Rothschild 2004 to be illustrated with one of his watercolors, inspired by a French landscape.

At Joseph Drouhin, a family-run vineyard and winery in France established in the late 1800’s Béatrice J. Drouhin, wife of the winemaker, creates artwork that adorns the labels of several offerings, including the 2018 and 2023 Beaujolais Nouveau. Béatrice’s brilliant use of vibrant colors and silhouettes are truly works of art.

Since moving with her family to New York in 2005, she has devoted herself entirely to her painting. She draws inspiration from her many travels and women are regular subjects of her works. Béatrice sketches silhouettes and suggests emotions through a palette of colors.

She explores and expresses her feelings by painting what pleases her while being inspired by her surroundings.

Pânico is a new wine brand created by Sofia Lencastre and Pureza Champalimaud in Portugal. It’s designed to be the perfect remedy for life’s challenges or to approach them with a more fun and relaxed attitude. The brand’s name and label was created to reflect the state of panic people experienced during the pandemic, adding a touch of humor to it.

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A SOCIALLY SPEAKING

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A true craftsman knows that perfection doesn’t just happen. It takes meticulous attention to detail, intense passion, and a deep commitment to the craft.

Rooted in the hardworking spirit of Chicago, Allen Brothers is a result of rolling up our sleeves and perfecting every piece of the process. From sourcing, to aging, to hand-cutting our meats — every chef knows they’re working with a level of quality that doesn’t exist elsewhere.

For decades we’ve remained a cut above — pouring pride and a human touch into everything we do. With Allen Brothers, you’re backed by unparalleled service and skill. So, when you step in the kitchen, you’re already in a class of your own.

Our materials. Your masterpiece.

Crafting excellence since 1893.