The Perfect Place to Dine on a Warm Summer Night

The Perfect Place to Dine ON A WARM SUMMER NIGHT

By Deborah Stone Photos Carolyn Wright

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n less than two years L’Olivier has not only established a definite name for itself, but is now widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in Santa Fe. Under the highly competent helm of Nathalie Bonnard Grenet and her husband, well-known chef Xavier Grenet, the charming Galisteo St. establishment is thriving, receiving accolades and rave reviews from both locals and tourists alike.

Trained at the esteemed French School of Culinary Art: Ferrandi in Paris and L’Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne in Switzerland,

chef Grenet has more than 25 years of experience. He worked at Le Jamin under the leadership of Joel Robuchon, at the Essex House in New York and at the landmark restaurant Barcelona in San Francisco, earning high praise from food critics for the “explosive yet balanced flavors of his cuisine.” A fan of the Southwest, he arrived in Santa Fe in 2000 and was the executive chef at Ristra for thirteen years where he made an indelible mark on the city’s culinary scene. There he proceeded to infuse his French-inspired dishes with bold Southwest flavors. In 2002, chef Grenet

was awarded the top recognition of his peers with an invitation to prepare a dinner in New York City at the acclaimed James Beard Foundation.

At L’Olivier, he continues this legacy with a series of delectable entrées, ranging from coq au vin and sautéed Scottish salmon to rosemary braised beef short ribs, glazed suckling pig and braised leg of lamb. Vegetarians need not despair as there’s always a chef’s vegetarian special of the day in addition to an entrée or two that meets the criteria. The creative menu also includes the ever-popular

“It reminds us of France, where everyone eats oysters on ice outside and it’s such a pleasant experience.”

escargot, which receives a different type of preparation than one typically finds in other restaurants. Here, the escargot are presented in little casseroles and sautéed with garlic butter, black forest ham, tomatoes, spinach and slivered almonds.

Squash blossom tempura, recently added to the menu, gives a notable nod to the Southwest. Stuffed with boursin cheese, it’s served with red chile beurre blanc sauce.

New for the restaurant is an oyster bar and small plate(s) selection available 4:30-6 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. “We know lots of people love oysters,” says Bonnard Grenet, “but they’re not really common in Santa Fe. We wanted to offer

something unique to our customers and we have a great space for it with our bar located on the outdoor patio.” She adds, “It reminds us of France, where everyone eats oysters on ice outside and it’s such a pleasant experience.” The oysters, which predominantly come from the west coast, are offered either raw or fried with crispy leeks and harissa mayonnaise. Additional small plates available include herbed fried calamari with lime sweet chili sauce, shrimp flautas with basil sauce, pan catalan (toasted bread with garlic, tomato and cured ham) and a cheese plate.

With the weather getting warmer, L’Olivier’s intimate patio will undoubtedly be a happening place in town. Surrounded

by a picturesque garden, it’s the perfect place to dine ‘à la fraiche’. L’Olivier offers an extensive wine list featuring French or North American wines exclusively, along with assorted aperitifs, beer and hard cider. And for those with a sweet tooth, rest assured, the desserts are heavenly.

From the chocolate soufflé and tarte tatin to the floating island (soft meringue with crème anglaise topped with hard caramel) and opera (French cake with layers of almond sponge cake soaked in coffee syrup, layered with ganache and coffee buttercream, then covered in a chocolate glaze), you’ll be swooning after the first bite.

If you’re looking for a delectable culinary experience at a reasonable price, the three-course menu $35 prix fixe will be the perfect fit Monday through Thursday evenings. For an outstanding event, the ‘menu gastronomique’ (offered Friday

and Saturday nights only) is ideal for those with a healthy appetite who want to sample chef Grenet’s specialties, including a cold appetizer, a warm appetizer, fish dish and meat dish, plus a cheese plate, dessert and glass of Grand Courtage, Blanc de Blancs; it’s a perfect French dining experience you’ll never forget!

Whatever you eat at L’Olivier, you can count on many of the ingredients being local and organic. “We use as many local products as we can,” comments Bonnard Grenet. “We work directly with the farmers, or companies who buy locally as much as possible. That’s important to us.”

L’Olivier 229 Galisteo St. 505.989.1919 LolivierSantaFe.com

L-R Xavier Grenet, chef and Nathalie Bonnard Grenet