area with us; a bridge we just crossed had 3 weeks ago been completely washed away by the river. At Deep Cove we excitedly boarded the comfortable and modern passenger boat, Seafinn — 19 metres long, with six individual sleeping cabins — and began our scenic overnight cruise. What awaited us was nothing short of spectacular. Mountainous, snow-powdered peaks stretched out before us, soaring hundreds — even thousands — of metres in the air, shrouded by fog and drizzle. The rain — which would have been dismal anywhere else – ensured we had prime viewing of hundreds of waterfalls that poured off huge granite precipices into the corrugated glassy water. Radiometric age dating shows that the oldest rocks in the Fiordland National Park date back 450 million years, well before the islands of New Zealand even existed. The fiords were first formed during the ice ages, as large quantities of snow accumulated in the mountains, compressed under newer snow until it melted and refroze to form glacial ice. The landscape we see today was carved by glaciers embedded with rock fragments. It is no wonder the ancient and imposing site is associated with Maori legend. Eight hundred years ago, ancient Maori began travelling to the area to collect pounamu, or New Zealand jade. Too incredible to have been formed by chance, they believed the fiords were shaped by the ‘titanic mason’ Tute Rakiwhanoa with his adzes. The explanation seems fitting.
Chris then informed us that we were entering the Elizabeth Island Marine Reserve as we passed by the left side of the island and into increasingly choppy waters. We then continued into Crooked Arm — shaped just as one would expect from the name, this is one of three main arms in the sound — venturing as far as Turn Point. Along the way we were taken to the feet of the most impressive waterfalls of the cruise, including Browne Falls — at 1200 metres high, the tallest waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere. After enjoying a delicious crayfish lunch, we journeyed into the more sheltered waters of Gaol Passage in the First Arm. Our group was provided with rods and bait and issued with instructions (only half-jokingly) to catch dinner. It was very much a fisherman’s heaven, as we only needed to have our bait waiting at the bottom for a brief moment before the nibbling began. As luck would have it, I managed to catch a large blue cod, contributing to the number of Jock Stewarts and blue cods that we caught between the seven of us. Later we did indeed have the fish for dinner, cooked to perfection along with deliciously tender venison. Even as we covered greater distances, it was difficult to appreciate Doubtful’s great expanse. To feel the wild beauty outstretched before me, with all of my senses, was a truly humbling experience. While floating in the cool, crisp air, I truly understood my smallness — and yet, I had never felt so tranquil. In the afternoon we ventured further, the sound continuing impossibly on. Cutting through The Gut, we reached the Shelter Islands at the ocean entrance to the Tasman Sea. Though standing at 15 metres tall, Chris informed us that two rocks called the Hares Ears are sometimes completely submerged by
With still more to see, we glided past Secretary Island, sliced from the mainland by glacial ice. In 2003, a 7.1 magnitude earthquake raised the island by an astonishing 18 centimetres, the epicentre being just 12 kilometres deep and directly below the sound itself. Coastal Fiordland is one of the most seismically-active parts of New Zealand, and as a result, earthquakes — along with rock falls and tree avalanches — are some of the many natural forces reshaping the landscape. Following trips into Thompson and Bradshaw Sounds, we stopped to enjoy a delicious dinner (and a few wines) on the Camelot River: certainly up there with the very best spots any of us had ever enjoyed a drink. The moment provided pause to reflect on the significant day we’d had. My travelling companion remarked that pictures simply do not do it justice — words that held particular weight coming from a photographer. The next day we awoke to the sight of a fresh dump of snow dusting the mountain peaks: a reminder that although it was November, Fiordland is ultimately a glacial wonderland. In winter, a thick layer of ice develops over the surface of the water — so thick it has been known to trap and damage boats. The marine environment in the fiords is like no other in the world. The body of water is made up of two distinct layers that scarcely mix: a 2 to 10-metre layer of fresh water fed from the neighbouring mountains, on top of a layer of saline water. Light struggles to penetrate through the fresh water layer due to the dark tannins, and as a result, many deep-sea species inhabit the relatively shallow waters. This includes black coral: usually found at depths of 30-40 metres, it can be seen just 10 metres deep in the sound. Not long after rising for breakfast, while at the corner of Gaer Arm, a pod of bottlenose dolphins joined us at the bow. This was far from the only wildlife sighting of the day. Along with dolphins and penguins, it is also possible to sight fur seals and whales in the sound. We saw proof of the latter when Chris showed us several photographs on his camera of a whale he had spotted on a trip just days before. At Seymour Island, we came upon more crested penguins — a larger group than we had seen the previous day. Amused, we watched as just a few metres in front of us, one penguin appeared to take charge and order the others around. Being part of a small charter — particularly one run by such an expert as Chris — certainly had its benefits, as it allowed us to get just inches away from these sights. Hall Arm was the final stop on our adventure, including a look at Commander Peak, a truly impressive summit that reaches 900 metres high. The last moments of the cruise were marked by a silent stillness. Captured, as if by a spell, we stared out in a final, desperate attempt to commit every image and sensation to memory. When we met Diane back at Lake Manapouri, where our journey had begun, she asked me whether I had enough material to write this article. “Too much,” I replied truthfully.
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The first major feature we passed on the cruise was Rolla Island, home to a 500-year-old rimu tree, along with several rata — also known as the ‘southern Christmas tree’ — blooming with bright red flowers. It was there, too, that we experienced our first exciting encounter with a small group of crested penguins, identifiable by the two symmetrical yellow-feathered ‘mohawks’ above their eyes.
the waves, highlighting the ocean’s startling tenacity and brute strength. Slowly the sun began to set, shining its last rays on the rugged landscape like spotlights on a stage. We watched as, in the distance, a sailing boat slowly, peacefully crossed the horizon. It was only then, seeing the ship dwarfed by its backdrop, that I could begin to understand Doubtful’s impressive scale.