Summer Time Wines– Alternatives to the Season’s Usual Suspects By Jamie Venable
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ummer is upon us, and seasonal changes are in full gear. In my world, seasonal change includes redirecting focus on the great global wine list. While I will certainly quaff the can’t miss Cab, the robust Rhone, a sure fire Shiraz, or other rambunctious red with the finest my grill can offer, summer’s warmth instigates my fleeing from the very wines that kept me and a heartier bill of fare toasty through the winter. Summer heat induces a need to jump into the adult pool of reds and whites that provide a lighter touch, at the grill or as a summer sipper on the deck, boat, or beach. The classic summer red is Pinot Noir. Why not, though, wade through great overlooked alternatives such as Italian Valpolicella and Sangiovese, Cru Beau-
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jolais and Chinon from France, Spanish Tempranilla, and North Carolina Chambourcin. All have less weight and a wonderful array of flavors. While Valpolicella has suffered in the past from a false impression of cheap plonk, there are quality producers making wonderful examples of this much lighter little brother to Amarone. Sangiovese is best known as the primary grape in Chianti and fits into the lighter wine concept, but additionally there are lots of tasty, inexpensive non-Chianti Sangiovese with the cherry/berry flavors that make it so enjoyable. Chinon, from France's Loire Valley, is made of Cabernet Franc with the possible addition of a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon, and though it has a wonderful full flavor, is less dense than its California counterpart. From Spain, Tempranilla is the red grape of Rioja, a very full flavored wine, without the heaviness. This is true of wines labeled Crianza, indicating a younger, less oaked wine than the Reserva or Gran Reserva. Chambourcin is a lesser-known hybrid developed in the Loire Valley. Possessing a fungus resistant character, Chamboucin has definitely found a home in North Carolina’s humid climate. I've yet to have a bad example of this wine, which falls somewhere between Pinot Noir and Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais. Speaking of Beaujolais, why wait for the Nouveau of November? There are 10 different Cru Beaujolais–all rela-
tively light wines, with varying degrees of fuller and more complex flavors. Examples include Brouilly, Chiroubles, and my favorite, Morgon. Red wine has its place during summer, however, every white wine glass will be pressed to greater service between Easter and Labor Day. While Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio are no-brainers, there are dozens of great whites to select this summer. Crisp, mildly citrus Austrian Gruner Veltliner, Spanish Albarino, Vinho Verde from Portugal, wonderfully floral Torrontes of Argentina, Verdicchio from central Italy, as well as Gavi, Pecorino, and Verdelho are each lip-smacking, heat-beating, thirst-quenching and delicious. These wines shine when paired with fish, chicken, and other favorite summer dishes. As you vacation this summer from the everyday hustle and bustle, refresh your palate with a break from the vineyards' usual suspects–you may discover a new favorite summer wine. Fine examples of all wines mentioned can be found in the $10 to $15 range. Cin Cin! Jamie Venable, owner of Wine Maestro in Mooresville