Page 1


ultrasmoothing eye serum Tough on lines. Easy on the eyes.

professional training manual


Introduction Direct Effects Surrounding the Condition of the Eye Area Key Ingredients that Counteract Eye Area Sensitivity and Aging Introducing UltraSmoothing Eye Serum UltraSmoothing Eye Serum Product Details Questions and Answers 800-831-5150 in the USA 1535 Beachey Place, Carson, CA 90746 USA London KT22 7TW United Kingdom Š Dermalogica, 2013 No portion of this manual, or any of the parts thereof, may be duplicated in any format without prior written permission from Dermalogica.

2 3 4 7 8 10


The expression “the eyes are the windows of the soul” captures beautifully the importance of this delicate area in expressing who we are, and how we’re feeling. The eye area is also one of the first areas of the face to show the signs of aging, in the form of fine lines, sagging and dryness. While the physiology of the eye itself remains fairly constant – by age seven, your eyes are fully developed and will remain the same size for the rest of your life – the delicate skin tissue around the eye area is constantly changing. Roughly the thickness of five sheets of paper, the tissue around the eye area is some of the thinnest on the human body, and as such, requires special treatment. It should come as no surprise, therefore, that treatments targeting aging around the eye area represent one of the fastest-growing market segments in the skin care industry. Unfortunately, these advances have failed to meet the needs of one important segment of our clientele – the huge population of people who have highlysensitive skin, yet wish to treat the signs of aging around the eye area. Many of the highly-active formulations typically used to treat aging signs are far too aggressive for individuals with heightened sensitivity, and can actually trigger an inflammatory response when used by these clients. Ironically, sustained inflammation is linked to accelerated tissue damage, so for these individuals, these anti-aging products can actually cause more damage than good. Fortunately, research conducted at The International Dermal Institute has developed a unique approach that delivers the best of both worlds – an effective anti-aging treatment, combined with the soothing benefits so desperately needed by the sensitive skin client. As the latest addition to Dermalogica’s UltraCalming™ system, UltraSmoothing Eye Serum uses a unique blend of age-fighting actives to reduce the signs of aging at their cause, while delivering simultaneous relief from the three main triggers of skin sensitivity – immunogenic inflammation, neurogenic inflammation and compromised lipid barrier. Let’s first look at the key causes of aging around the eye area.

Dermalogica  2

direct effects surrounding the condition of the eye area

key ingredients that counteract eye area sensitivity and aging

There are many contributing factors that account for the condition of the skin around our eyes. The eye area tissue is extremely thin and lacks protective lipids, making it much more vulnerable to connective tissue damage triggered by genetics, intrinsic (natural) aging, physical attributes, general wear and tear, lifestyle, allergies and diseases, and environment (exposure to UV rays, weather, climate changes, etc.). All of these contribute to a more sensitized skin tissue around the eye, making treatment of the eye area especially difficult.

While treating aging skin was our first objective in formulating Dermalogica’s new UltraSmoothing Eye Serum, we also had to be cognizant of the fact that many agefighting actives are irritating for individuals with sensitized skin. UltraSmoothing Eye Serum contains several key ingredients that are included to not only treat aging skin but also to fight off future signs of aging, while soothing and calming skin in the delicate eye area. Let’s look at some of the key ingredients that we use in this formula:



Allergies and Diseases

Intrinsic Aging

Physical Attributes


General Wear and Tear

Hexapeptide-11 As skin care professionals know, peptides are the number one go-to ingredient for treating aging skin. We used Hexapeptide-11, a peptide fragment derived from Yeast, that consists of 6 amino acids (hence the name hexa-peptide). This peptide fragment has been studied and selected for its ability to help firm the skin, improve skin elasticity and improve fine lines. All of these are critical considerations for an eye area product. In clinical trials, women ages 30-60, who used this ingredient twice a day for four weeks, indicated that after 2 weeks their skin was firmer, fine lines were less evident and skin had more elasticity to it [mechanical measurements conducted]. Measurements indicated a 22% improvement in skin elasticity.1 Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) In addition to Hexapeptide-11, we used Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), a stable form of Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) that is effective in significantly lower concentrations and stable at a neutral pH. This form of Vitamin C is preferred for sensitized skin clients, as the pH of the delivery system does not have to be low pH (acidic), which can be irritating. Like Ascorbic Acid, MAP shows suppression of melanin formation by inhibition of tyrosine, and has compelling evidence for its ability to cross the epidermis, where it is effectively converted into ascorbic acid that can promote collagen synthesis, lighten skin pigmentation, and protect against UVB induced tumor formation in the skin.2,3

figure 1 The many factors that influence the condition of the eye area.

1. Proprietary tests conducted by Midwest Clinical Trial for Lonza. 2. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000 Jun;22(3):169-79. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00017.x. Histopathological, morphometric and stereological studies of ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in a skin care formulation. 3. Silva GM, Maia Campos PM. Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirao Preto, University of Sao Paulo, Brazil. 3  UltraCalming™

Dermalogica  4

key ingredients that counteract eye area sensitivity and aging continued

key ingredients that counteract eye area sensitivity and aging continued

Carrot Oil Carrot Oil is a soy oil-based Carrot Extract, enriched and standardized with antioxidant carotenoids and provitamin A, which can be converted into Vitamin A or Retinol in the human body. Vitamin A plays an important part in helping with cell differentiation and regeneration of cells as well as, helping to reverse the signs of aging in skin.4

Hyaluronic Acid

Red and Brown Seaweed These age-fighting actives are combined with an algal complex derived from Red (Asparagopsis) and Brown Seaweed (Ascophyllum), which has been prepared via a patented process shown to reduce inflammation while inhibiting Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzymes (MMPs), thereby helping to protect the skin from collagen degrading enzymes (i.e. collagenase). Golden Chamomile Chrysanthellis, or Golden Chamomile, is a natural African plant rich in antioxidant polyphenols that also helps soothe irritated skin. When this algal complex was combined with Golden Chamomile, (Chrysanthellum Indica), a member of the common flowering plant Chrysanthemum, the combined plant actives helped to increase the mechanical resistance of capillaries. Clinical trial results have demonstrated that this combination helped reduce eye puffiness (-6%) and helped to soothe skin irritation-reducing inflammation (-43%).5 See figure 2.

Dehydration, or lack of water in the tissues, is often associated with the aging skin condition. As we age, skin becomes more dehydrated due to a compromised barrier lipid layer. In the case of the eye area this is particularly critical as there are fewer sebaceous glands around the eye area, which means less sebum is produced. Likewise, the skin’s ability to regenerate oils that comprise the barrier lipid layer also declines with maturity. Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid, which holds five times more water than regular Hyaluronic Acid, hydrates the tissue and also functions as a free radical scavenger, helping to fight off oxidative damage due to free radicals. UltraCalming™ Complex In addition, UltraSmoothing Eye Serum contains Dermalogica’s exclusive UltraCalming™ Complex to help reduce and prevent future sensitivity, redness and irritation. Our UltraCalming™ Complex includes Boerhavia Diffusa (Red Hogweed) Root Extract, along with Avena Sativa (Oat), a rich source of avenanthramides, which are the active fractions of Oat that have been widely studied and proven to have natural anti-irritant and anti-redness properties. UltraCalming™ Complex also contains Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, a synthetic avenanthramide, which boosts the calming activity of the oats. Ginger and Bisabolol (derived from Chamomile) complete the UltraCalming™ Complex by helping to reduce inflammation-induced itch, redness and irritation.7 We have also included soothing Aloe, skin regenerating Panthenol, antioxidant, skin smoothing Vitamin E, and antioxidant Licorice for their beneficial attributes.

figure 2 Demonstration of the decrease in eye puffiness experienced by those who treated with Ascophyllum + Asparagopsis + Chrysanthellis, versus treating with a placebo.6 4. Neumann, M. (2003) Systemic & topical drugs for aging skin J. Drugs in Dermatology. 5. Randomized placebo-controlled trial of a flavonoid-rich plant extract-based cream in the treatment of rosacea, published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, Sep 2005. 6. Proprietary tests on Aldavine 5xt Lanachrys 2B by Lucas Meyer Labs Labs. www. 5  UltraCalming™

7. Avenanthramides Continue Evolution of Dermatologic Use of Oat Products Dr. L. Baumann,; J. wu in Skin & Allergy News Suppl. [2008]

Dermalogica  6

introducing ultrasmoothing eye serum

ultrasmoothing eye serum product

UltraSmoothing Eye Serum is a firming formula that effectively targets the signs of aging around the eyes without triggering the additional sensitivity or irritation so commonly associated with highly-active eye treatments.

Sensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin.

This potent-yet-gentle lightweight serum is readily absorbed into the skin, delivering age-fighting actives to address fine lines and dehydration while soothing the delicate eye area. UltraSmoothing Eye Serum gives those who suffer with sensitivity and the signs of aging a truly comprehensive treatment solution.

A firming eye serum to help smooth fine lines on even the most sensitive skin. This powerful treatment fluid contains an advanced peptide known to encourage collagen-producing activities to help smooth fine lines and target the signs of aging around the delicate eye area. A fortifying blend of Brown and Red Algae and Golden Chamomile helps minimize puffiness, as Oat Kernel Extract helps soothe fragile skin. Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid optimizes hydration as our exclusive UltraCalming™ Complex helps minimize sensitivity. Formulated without artificial fragrances and colors.

UltraSmoothing Eye Serum is the perfect product solution for any client with highly sensitive or sensitized skin. It is a fantastic addition to the UltraCalming™ system, and is also ideal for individuals who prefer a lighter serum for treating the eye area.

key products to prescribe

Hydrates Tissues

Fights Aging Skin

· Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid · Aloe babadensis leaf juice · Panthenol · Sorbitol · Glycerin · Ascophyllum nodosum

· Licorice (Glycyrrhizate) · Vitamin E (Tocpherol) · Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid · Carrot Oil · MAP

• UltraCalming™ Cleanser • UltraCalming™ Mist • Super Sensitive Shield SPF30 Gently apply a small amount around the eye area, working from the outer corner inward, avoiding the inside of the eye.

· Hexapeptide-11 · Asparagopsis armata · UltraCalmingTM Complex · Carrot Oil

Treats Aging and Sensitized Skin

7  UltraCalming™

Dermalogica  8

ultrasmoothing eye serum product

questions | answers


Hexapeptide-11 Derived from Yeast. An age-fighting peptide to help stimulate collagen and firm skin. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) A stable form of vitamin C; stimulates collagen synthesis, helps fight pigmentation and acts as an antioxidant. Carrot Root Extract A rich source of antioxidant carotenoids and provitamin A that is converted into retinol in the skin. Ascophyllum (Brown) and Asparagopsis (Red) Algae Extract Derived from a patented process using brown and red seaweeds, this complex of sulfated polysaccharides inhibits inflammatory mediators and subsequent inflammation while inhibiting Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes. Studies have shown it reduces eye puffiness. Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid A powerful humectant that holds five times more water in skin than Hyaluronic Acid alone; helps scavenge free radicals. UltraCalming™ Complex Helps reduce sensitivity, redness, irritation and inflammation. Golden Chamomile (Chrysanthellis) A native African plant rich in flavonoids that help soothe skin and reduce eye puffiness when combined with Ascophyllum (Brown) and Asparagopsis (Red) Algae Complex.

9  UltraCalming™

Can UltraSmoothing Eye Serum be prescribed for an oily or acneic skin condition? Yes. Sensitization and aging can affect any skin, and UItraSmoothing Eye Serum can be supplemented into a core regimen when needed. Inflammation is commonly present in acne-prone skin. If your acne-prone client has evident inflammation around the eyes, perhaps from using a topical acne medication like Differin or from taking oral Isotretinoin (previously marketed as Accutane), you may prescribe UltraSmoothing Eye Serum. Is this product safe to use if a client suffers from skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea? Yes. This powerful formula is designed specifically for people with these extremely sensitive, reactive skin conditions. How does this product address fine lines? Hexapeptide-11, a peptide fragment derived from Yeast, consists of 6 amino acids that have been studied and selected for their ability to help firm the skin, improve skin elasticity and reduce fine lines. Why formulate as a serum, versus a cream? The lightweight delivery method of a serum allows for faster absorption and more gentle application (meaning less friction and stimulation), making it ideal for the delicate eye area. In addition, research proves serums permeate skin more effectively than creams. In this lightweight form, UltraSmoothing Eye Serum delivers increased benefits for greater relief from aging, sensitive eyes. Can UltraSmoothing Eye Serum be layered with other products? When prescribing for sensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin, UltraSmoothing Eye Serum is best used alone for maximum soothing effect. For dry, sensitive skin conditions, we recommend using Ultra Sensitive Tint SPF30 layered over UltraSmoothing Eye Serum.

Dermalogica  10

questions | answers



Is UltraSmoothing Eye Serum a day or night serum? It’s both! UltraSmoothing Eye Serum can be worn during the day or during the evening. If worn during the day, advise clients to apply an SPF eye treatment such as Total Eye Care with SPF15, over the serum, at least 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. You may also prescribe Super Sensitive Shield SPF30, as it is a chemical-free sunscreen alternative. What other Dermalogica products are suitable for use in conjunction with UltraSmoothing Eye Serum? We recommend incorporating products in the UltraCalming™ system, as they are specifically formulated for individuals with sensitized skin. Can someone with normal skin use UltraSmoothing Eye Serum? Many individuals prefer a lightweight product around the eye area; UltraSmoothing Eye Serum is perfect for those clients who need hydration and conditioning of the delicate eye area but prefer not to use a rich cream.

11  UltraCalming™

Dermalogica 12

21014 uses tm