What is your concept of the modern person? Who is the Plokhov Man? Modernity in itself does not interest me that much. I would like to make clothes that are hard to place – without apparent affinity to a particular time or place.
What impact does your Russian heritage have on your design philosophy and process? I approach design as a craft, something one should constantly work on and obsessively hone… This relates directly to my Russian heritage. It is always a struggle with only a rare glimpse of discovery…
What does the term «Russian style» mean to you and what is your opinion about contemporary Russian fashion market and creative output? In my mind the term “Russian style” associates with reckless romanticism tinged with melancholia and restlessness… I am somewhat ignorant of contemporary Russian fashion market. Vika Gazinskaya looks interesting, though…. How do you start a collection? What element is key?
and perfect his craft. However, working for any established brand comes with severe stylistic limitations. Versace was a cut away from the designer’s personal vision. They parted amicably and the stage was set for the reemergence of Plokhov, the designer in his own right. He worked on his English by taking a dictionary to the Cormac McCarthy oeuvre. Perhaps therein he found an equivalent to the violent epic worldview of Russian masters that form his cultural DNA: Dostoyevsky, Tarkovsky and the lot. Now in New York City, the allegorical cardio central of the world, the designer finally found a fitting homebase for his fierce creative spirit. The timing could not be better as menswear is poised for a renaissance with select few daredevils leading the way by ingeniously redefining classic tailoring: asymmetrical construction, off fit and flowing hemlines, deconstructionist accents. He is obsessed with the handmade meticulousness of cuts, stitches, pleats. Perhaps it comes from his parents: a furniture maker and a graphic designer. He often draws inspiration from the functional necessities of workforce gear: industrial workers, day laborers, soldiers. The dayglow of glamour pales in comparison with the nighttime pride in an honest day’s work. Plokhov clothing is dark, tough, solitary. Executed in luxury fabrics like exclusive woolblends, lamb fur, kangaroo leather and such, it transforms the common into the elite.
Each collection starts differently. But usually, it starts with fabric. Design narrative, specific silhouette and construction details follow later.
What does the term “luxury” mean to you as a designer?
Outside the studio, where can one run into you? How do you spend limited free time?
The ultimate luxury to me is when something is made just for you…
New York City Subway. Reading and going to shows are probably my two favorite leisure activities. Just recently I saw Matthew Dear at Bowery Ballroom. His music is truly inspiring.
In an era of cross-brand collaborations who would you be interested in collaborating with?
Plokhov spent the next three years at Versace overseeing its menswear line, the first Russian couturier to headline a global fashion powerhouse. While Russians typically are not shy when it comes to touting their international achievements, this fashion benchmark slipped under the hype radar. While many would cling to such an appointment as a chance of a lifetime, Plokhov saw it as a chance to advance his education. Unprecedented access to best fabric makers and finest production capacities gave him a platform to experiment
As a designer I fear predictability and repetitiveness. As a person I fear losing people close to me. The coping part I have not figured out yet.
Interview Alexandre Plokhov
22
I think it would be fun to do something nonclothing- related. Maybe something in publishing with TASCHEN or working with a record label like SACRED BONES… What do you fear? How do you cope with fear?