Delta Magazine January/February 2021

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VOLUME 18, NUMBER 4

Delta

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021

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DELTA MAGAZINE

Annual Tourism Issue Public Art in the Delta FAVORITE COOKBOOKS and RECIPES

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C LOSING

Spring 2021

OPEN THRU 2021 HOURS Monday - Wednesday: Thursday: Friday: Saturday: Sunday:

CONTACT US CLOSED 10 am - 3 pm 10 am - 3 pm 10 am - 3 pm 12 pm - 3 pm

662.441.0100 www.grammymuseumms.org 800 W. Sunflower Rd. Cleveland, MS 38732

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Experience the convenience of the Planters Bank app.

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Publisher: J. Scott Coopwood Editor: Cindy Coopwood Managing Editor: Pam Parker Contributing Editors: Hank Burdine, Maude Schuyler Clay, noel Workman, Roger Stolle Digital Editor: Phil Schank Consultant: Samir Husni, Ph.D. Graphic Designers: Sandra goff, Maggi Mosco Contributing Writers: Dale Beasley, Jim Beaugez, Karen Focht, alan Huffman, liza Jones, angela Rogalski Photography: austin Britt, Colleen Buyers, greg Campbell, anita Corbin, Blake Crocker, Rory Doyle, Karen Focht, Jamie Harmon Account Executives: Joy Bateman, Janice Fullen, Cristen Hemmins, Kristy Kitchings, Wendy Mize, ann nestler, Cadey true Circulation: Holly tharp Accounting Manager: emma Jean thompson POSTMASTER: Send all address changes to Delta Magazine, PO Box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732

ADVERTISING: For advertising information, please call (662) 843-2700 or email Delta Magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials or photos and in general does not return them to sender. Photography obtained for editorial usage is owned by Delta Magazine and may not be released for commercial use such as in advertisements and may not be purchased from the magazine for any reason. all editorial and advertising information is taken from sources considered to be authoritative, but the publication cannot guarantee their accuracy. neither that information nor any opinion expressed on the pages of Delta Magazine in any way constitutes a solicitation for the sale or purchase of securities mentioned. no material in Delta Magazine may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publication. Delta Magazine is published bimonthly by Coopwood Magazines, inc., 125 South Court St., Cleveland, MS 38732-2626. Periodicals postage paid at Cleveland, MS and additional mailing office. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Delta Magazine, PO Box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732-0117. Delta Magazine (USPS#022-954)

Delta Magazine is published six times a year by Coopwood Magazines, Inc. EDITORIAL & BUSINESS OFFICE ADDRESSES: Mailing Address: PO Box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732 Shipping Address: 125 South Court Street, Cleveland, MS 38732 E-mail: publisher@deltamagazine.com editor@deltamagazine.com

deltamagazine.com Subscriptions: $28 per year Š2021 Coopwood Magazines, inc.

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YOU WANT A BETTER COMMERCIAL BANKER. REGIONS IS WHERE YOU’LL FIND ONE. EXPECT BUSINESS INTELLIGENCE THAT GOES BEYOND THE BALANCE SHEET. There will come a moment when you realize your Regions Commercial Relationship Manager is someone who will bring you a lot more than just ways to raise capital. You’ll see we’re here to demonstrate our value to you as local, knowledgeable business consultants. You’ll find we ask smart questions, listen to your answers and deliver smart solutions for your business. You’ll know we’re true partners. In that moment, you’ll realize you made the right choice.

LET’S START THE CONVERSATION TODAY. Walt Stephens | Commercial Banking 662.433.6685 | walt.stephens@regions.com

Commercial Banking | Treasury Management | Capital Markets | Wealth Management © 2020 Regions Bank. All loans and lines subject to credit approval, terms and conditions. | Regions and the Regions logo are registered trademarks of Regions Bank. The LifeGreen color is a trademark of Regions Bank.

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from the editor

2021: Cautiously Optimistic write this on the cusp of going to press with the first issue of the new year, it would be easy to say how excited i am about 2021, right? But i’m tentative about putting that out there—because truthfully, the bar is set pretty low as we ease into the next twelve months. the year of Our lord 2021 won’t have to try very hard to be seen as a stunning success. it’s hard to know what our mindset should be as we approach the end of what has been an unprecedented year by all accounts. and i don’t mean in a good way. We are all cautiously optimistic that “things will get back to normal” when the COViD pandemic subsides, but i suspect many aspects of our lives have changed forever. i recently found my editor’s letter from January 2018 where i wrote that my goal for the new year was to “live in the present” and enjoy every moment. “i want to truly engage in what’s before me every day: time with my family, lunch with a friend, the special events and the mundane.” it sounded really good—but i will freely admit i failed miserably in that endeavor, and that year like so many others, flew by in what was often a stressful, busy, blur. What strikes me most now is how flippant i’ve been about what are actually very worthwhile goals—spending time with my family, enjoying lunch with a friend, enjoying the special events and the mundane. Simple events previously taken for granted now carry a weight and importance we could never have imagined. if nothing else, 2020 proved Joni Mitchell right—“you don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.”

But the flip of that is true as well. We’ve also gained a greater appreciation for what we do have, what we can do, and for where we live. i can honestly say i’ve never been more grateful for living in my small town. the comparison to larger cities has never been so stark, as we realized in the past few months how much more freedom we were still able to enjoy during this chaotic year. in this our annual tourism and travel issue, we hope to emphasize how much we still have at our fingertips—right here at home. as we continue to try to stay safe, road trips, day trips, and staycations are more appealing than ever, and Delta towns are worthy destinations. in our tourism section, page 48, you will read about some of the public art and galleries throughout the region, the Safari Wild Park in Como and the funky Klondyke trading Post in Vicksburg—but i encourage you to take time to study the Delta Detour and other tourism ads. they include a wealth of information as you plan your 2021 excursions! as a cookbook lover i am also excited to bring you the recipes and favorite cookbooks our readers shared with us, page 94. Maybe you’ll recognize one of your favorites as well. it is my sincere hope that 2021 finds all of you safe and well—and as always, we want you to stay in touch with us! We love for our readers to be involved in all we do, whether it’s a comment on social media, participating in contests or sending in photos.

Cheers to a new year—let’s make the best of it! DM

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Cindy Coopwood Editor @cindycoopwood | cindy@deltamagazine.com

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DELTA

MAGAZINE

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2021

4 ANNOUNCEMENT OPTIONS

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ONE PAGE HOWE

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BATES

TWO PAGE

ANNOUNCEMENTS

BAILEY

BRATTON

Formal

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◆ One vertical photo ◆ Two horizontal photos ◆ Up to 450-500 word write-up HOGAN

ALLIE INGRAM HOGAN

CULVER

Formal

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◆ Two vertical photos ◆ Four horizontal photos ◆ Up to 900-950 word write-up ANNOUNCEMENTS

ROARK

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STEINLE •

& WALKER HILL CULVER

Visual

◆ Two vertical photos ◆ Two horizontal photos ◆ Vendor details

MARY MARGARET ROARK

& PAUL JACOB STEINLE III

Visual

◆ Three vertical photos ◆ Five horizontal photos ◆ Vendor details

Announcement information can be found online at deltamagazine.com/weddings. Chosen form will provide prompts to upload announcement or details (Word, Pages, or PDF) and all photos. Please provide high-resolution images. Screenshots of write ups or photos will not be accepted. Each announcement will have the option to upload an additional 50 photos for the wedding showcase feature. Please read the instructions carefully!

For questions or assistance contact 662.843.2700 or weddings@deltamagazine.com

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This could be you!

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APRIL 202

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Don’t miss your chance to be part of the Most Southern Wedding event of the year—AND to be considered to be the Delta Magazine cover bride!

March/April 2021 We are now accepting submissions for our

2021 Wedding Showcase Don’t wait—submit your announcements today!

For more information visit: deltamagazine.com and select weddings or, email submissions to weddings@deltamagazine.com

DEADLINE: January 22, 2021

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contents JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy Volume 18 No. 4

departments

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30 Reviews BOOKS of new releases and

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32 ART Betsy Brackin Burch: Shaped by a what Deltans are reading

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love of nature, family, and a few trips around the globe, Burch’s landscapes explore expressionistic style

36 MUSIC Gary Vincent: This artist and producer GREG CAMPBELL

holes up in his Delta digs and livestreams music to the world

74 HOME Saving Georgianna: The stunning

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restoration of this treasured antebellum home in Cary

94 FOOD

Favorite Cookbooks: Delta Magazine’s readers share recipes from their favorite cookbooks

features

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A Trek Around the Globe

112 HISTORY

DM’s Annual Tourism Issue

in every issue

Mississippi Pilots: Delta Aces and the Flying Wonders of Mississippi

In 1982, British architect Elspeth Baird cranked up her BMW motorcycle and embarked on a journey that took her down Highway 61 and through the Delta

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14 Letters 18 On the Road

I Spy… the search for public art in the Delta, page 50 From public sculptures to murals to art galleries, you don’t have to look far for original art in the Delta!

The Safari Wild Animal Park in Como, page 60 Get up-close and personal with hundreds of wild African animals at this stunning 466-acre Safari park

Where we’ve been, where we’re going next

DELTA URS DETO

Klondyke Trading Post in Vicksburg, page 66 Not your typical hole in the wall—this historic diner is located on the river in an area once dominated by gamblers and thieves

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Health, Beauty, and Wellness

Start the new year off right with these health care providers ON THE COVER: An original sculpture by George Tobolowsky installed on the green strip in downtown Cleveland, an extension of DSU’s Mathews-Sanders Sculpture Garden. Photo by Rory Doyle 12 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

22 Off the Beaten Path Roaming the Real and Rustic Delta

26 Hot Topics 114 Events A listing of events including concerts, festivals, and book signings

118 Delta Seen Pages of snapshots from area fundraisers, art openings and social events

120 The Final Word

by Dale Beasley

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LETTERS placed a sticky note on the article “a nod to Christmas Past.” She knows me so well. i was enthralled with the photography and stories about special ornaments and traditions. i, too, have a collection of nutcrackers and there is a special memory attached to each one. i visited several memories before i finished the article (which i reread and savored even more). as a former Mississippian, i am proud of your magazine about such a special area of the state. you have a new fan. Warmest holiday regards.

Rose Anne Wellinford Boston, Massachusetts “Fall has always been my favorite time of the year. It started when I was a child, largely due to my late October birthday.” – Cindy Coopwood, (September-October 2017) While those thoughts are true of me, they are your words. i wanted to send you a message of compliment about the Delta Magazine. Since my retirement from lauderdale County Court, i have more time to enjoy the issues. i am one of the strange folks who will read each advertisement and check its photography! i do compliment the overall quality of the ad photos. i may not read every article, as i am looking for something to do or buy post pandemic. enjoy you holidays!

Al Moore Meridian, Mississippi My granddaughter sent me her Holiday issue of DELTA after she finished reading it from cover to cover. She had

I remember years ago after graduating from Delta State University, and living in Memphis at the time, being so excited about receiving Delta Magazine when it first began. i was interested in reading about artists of the region, as i was an art teacher, and always enjoyed the pictures of the beautiful Delta homes. Delta people truly have a “flair” like no other.

Fast forward to today, and i have lived back in my adopted home of Cleveland for almost twelve years. One of the biggest compliments i have received in my career was being asked to be a feature artist in your holiday issue. every part of my experience was an absolute pleasure, from the photo shoot, to the interview, to the team welcoming my input. i really cannot thank you enough!

People across Mississippi and beyond have reached out to me for commissions, and i know for sure it has

helped me grow my art business. My favorite connection thus far is a large commission piece for the daughter of the secretary in the DSU art Department many years ago. She knew many of my art professors during my time at DSU. thank you again for your support of Delta people and especially your support of artists.

Allyson Hardy Cleveland, Mississippi I wanted to write to thank you for the fantastic article about my custom knife business that was in the most recent issue of Delta Magazine (november-December 2020). the writer, Katie tims, took so much time, traveling from the Delta to ackerman to interview me and see my shop and did a great job describing the process. and the photos by logan Kirkland were great. i have heard from so many folks saying they enjoyed Form & the article and Function several orders from commissions have come in. i couldn’t have asked for more. thank you again for including a story about me and my business!

Spence Helms Helms Custom Knives Ackerman, Mississippi D

UNIQUELY BEAUTIFUL, SPENCE HELMS’ CUSTOM KNIVES ARE MADE TO HOLD AN EDGE

BY KATIE TIMS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOGAN KIRKLAND

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SEND COMMENTS AND LETTERS TO: editor@deltamagazine.com or Delta Magazine, PO Box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732

We’re “buzzed” about our exclusive linen hand towels, $22 each

For the Home

Find nostalgia in every item of the

Delta Magazine Gift Collection Call or come by our office to shop our gift collection at 125 South Court Street, Cleveland, 662.843.2700.

Like our official Delta Magazine Page Twitter @Delta_Mag

Instagram @deltamagazine

To subscribe, call (662) 843-2700 or visit deltamagazine.com 14 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

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Y’all Said SOCIAL MEDIA COMMENTS @deltamagazine

We Asked...

Some people start the day after Thanksgiving...when will you start decorating for Christmas?

I’ve started decorating now for Christmas. I still have my Thanksgiving decorations out but I’ve got my tree up and will let my grandchildren help me decorate it on Thanksgiving Day. – Margaret Gilmer I always start the day after Thanksgiving. Never before!!! I was always told by my greatgrandmother, MaeMae, that it was proper southern etiquette to put your tree up the Friday after Thanksgiving and to take it down the day after New Years. – Kay Bradley My husband is very adamant about not decorating until AFTER Thanksgiving. So I’m decorating this week since my husband is gone to Kansas wild quail and pheasant hunting! Timing was perfect for an early, festive feel!

– Stacye Trout

318 Howard St • Greenwood, MS 662.453.2114 • thealluvian.com

Due to COVID19, since I won’t be with my family, I will make it a part of my Thanksgiving Day activities. – Madge Harris

It may be a special family tradition, Christmas carols, baking your favorite goodies or riding to see the Christmas lights...What puts you most in the Christmas spirit?

Christmas carols! – Lynn Sutherland Definitely...the lights! Turning on the tree and all other lights around the house becomes my new “first thing to do when I get home” thing for a month or so. – Caitlyn Thompson Baking my mother’s homemade cinnamon rolls!

– Libbi Logan What puts me most in the Christmas Spirit is when my nieces, nephew and godson come to bake and decorate Christmas cookies. We always bake two dozen per person, and each is to keep one dozen but give the others to someone in need of Christmas Cheer! – Kay Bradley

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traveling south

PHOTO BY RORY DOYLE

Winter in the Delta equals duck season. Why? Because it’s on the path of the greatest waterfowl flyway on the north american continent— the Mississippi Flyway. Migrating waterfowl travel each year from the upper regions of north america all the way to the gulf Coast of southern louisiana, funneling high concentrations of ducks and geese into the arkansas and Mississippi Deltas along the river, providing some of the best waterfowl hunting in the country. DM

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ON THE ROAD

where we’ve been, where to go next

COAHOMA COUNTY

GREENWOOD

Tracks tore Somewhe These old railroad tracks outside of the Shack Up Inn played a major role in transporting Coahoma County’s crops and people to various destinations. On rare occasions, trains still travel down these tracks.

At the Crossroads For a true Delta experience, the final resting place of blues great Robert Johnson is a must see and should be on the list of anyone who is interested in the region’s music history. – GREENWOOD CVB

– CLAY MOTLEY

SUMNER

PHOTO OPS & Galloping Beauties

YAZOO CITY

Historic Church

Horses at play during one of the first frosts of the year. – MIKE WAGNER

BOLIVAR COUNTY

‘ Rround the Bend Victoria Bend, located west of the small town of Rosedale on the Mississippi River is one of the most treacherous bends between Memphis and Vicksburg. Avid boaters, fishermen and outdoorsmen beware! – RORY DOYLE

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Organized in 1868, Bethel is the oldest African American congregation in Yazoo City. The church retains its historic Romanesque Revival tower with the steeple clad in sheet metal panels stamped to resemble shingles – YAZOO CVB

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ISSAQUENA COUNTY GLEN ALLAN

F light Patterns

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tu Return to Na

Vacant for several generations, this old homestead has been altered by time and taken over by kudzu! – MARTY KITTRELL

CLARKSDALE Black bird synchronicity is a common sight in winter when flocks of these birds display their unique flight patterns. – RORY DOYLE

FUNKY STOPS Roaming the real and rustic Delta

Maussriavel M Mississippi John Hurt rides high next to Muddy Waters on the new mural in progress on the side of Ground Zero Blues Club.

COAHOMA COUNTY

– OLIVER LUCKETT

Animal Logic

HOLLANDALE

Not Fogotten A loyal companion patiently peeping out of the back of an old hunting jeep. Where would hunters be without their best friend accompanying them on their excursions to the field? – RORY DOYLE

The decades have almost erased this small resting place outside of Hollandale. However, Marry Benford’s name still remains. – MARTY KITTRELL Instagram users, follow @deltamagazine and see #DMphotoops

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Our customers come first.

Now, more than ever.

New payment options for COVID-19 relief.

At Entergy Mississippi, we understand the immense impact the COVID-19 pandemic has had on our customers and communities. And we know that now, electricity is more important than ever. So for those struggling to make ends meet, we’ve developed new payment options to provide some relief during these uncertain times.

Our Enhanced Customer Assistance Plan provides flexible options to extend time to pay, waives late fees with payment arrangements and reimburses credit/debit card fees. Any customer that is experiencing financial hardship is eligible to take up to six months to pay their current bill and/or unpaid balances.

For added convenience, new self-service options are available to select the extended payment arrangement that works for you. Visit entergy.com/payarrangements, or select Deferred Payment on the Entergy Mobile App, or call 1-800-Entergy and follow our automated response system billing and payment menu. entergy.com/payarrangements

A message from Entergy Mississippi, LLC Š2020 Entergy Services, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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OFF THE BEATEN PATH roaming the real and rustic Delta

CHUCKS DAIRY BAR Milkshakes, burgers and a friendly staff at a favorite South Delta pit stop

BY ANGELA ROGALSKI

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OLLING FORK IS KNOWN FOR MANY THINGS among them legendary

bluesman Muddy Waters and a storied, but true bear hunting visit from theodore Roosevelt that lead to the creation of beloved children’s soother, teddy bears.

However, its modern day claim to fame comes from a little shake shack nestled off of Highway 61 called Chuck’s Dairy Bar. established in 1963, Chuck’s has been a mainstay, serving hot off the grill strip and ribeye steaks, chicken fried steaks, catfish, barbecue pork, footlong hot dogs, fresh dipped corndogs and Blts. Chuck’s is best known for its burgers that are hand-patted and cooked to perfection. the Chuckburger, its claim to fame, is topped with mayo, mustard, pickles, slaw and homemade chili. if chili isn’t your thing, choose from one of Chuck’s many burger items from a bacon cheeseburger to a half pounder. then wash it all down with one of Chuck’s famous milk shakes from traditional chocolate and vanilla to pineapple or butterscotch. these may very well be the creamiest and most satisfying shakes found this side of the MasonDixon line. and if the food weren’t enough to make this Rolling Fork eatery a pit stop along the way, Chuck’s staff has been making it all worthwhile with friendly and quick service since opening day. each year, Chuck’s sponsors the Chuckburger eating Contest at the great Delta Bear affair. it’s quite a sight to see who can eat the most in a five-minute time period.

Highway 61, Rolling Fork 662.873.4021

Chucks Dairy Bar has been a long-time mainstay for locals and travelers alike. The Chuckburger is to die for!

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1919 ANTIQUES A unique antique shopping experience in Itta Bena

BY ANGELA ROGALSKI

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OR OVER 30 YEARS 1919 ANTIQUES has

been a part of the antique community in itta Bena and the surrounding areas. the shop is opened tuesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. Owner Clay Pettit says his shop is filled with a variety of treasures from the past, be it furniture, glassware, artwork or unique items of interest.

“We’re located in a beautiful spot on Roebuck lake and sit right next door to a really charming episcopal Church in itta Bena,” Pettit adds. “We have a mix of antique english furniture, i’ve spent a lot of time abroad, and an array of american antiques. We have porcelain pieces, glassware and a multitude of uniquely interesting items.” at the beginning of the pandemic, Pettit says he was opened off and on, trying to find his footing during such uncertain times. the shop has now been opened at their current hours for over a month.

Being a home designer himself as well as an antique dealer, Pettit loves everything about finding vintage treasures at auctions and estate sales and bringing them back to his shop. “i’m not an architect but i make suggestions for new construction and remodels, both residential and commercial, and i also help new homeowners set up their homes as far as furniture placement and accessories. So, i love every aspect of the antique business, from meeting new people to assisting those i’ve known for a long time. i’ve been doing this for many years and i never tire of it. i love it.”

1208 Schley Street, Itta Bena 662.254.6292 1919 Antiques in Itta Bena is a must stop for antique lovers.

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LET US HELP YOU

GROW YOUR BUSINESS WITH PEOPLE AND TECHNOLOGY THAT WORK FOR YOU.

MEMBER FDIC | EQUAL HOUSING LENDER

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HOT TOPICS DRIVE-IN MOVIE THEATER COMES TO TOWN Large-screen entertainment makes a comeback Whether you remember the days of the drive-in theater or not, they’re making a comeback. With the pandemic, many small towns are bringing back drive-ins, providing safe movie-viewing and large-screen, vintage-style fun. in October, Cleveland joined the trend. nina Holden, owner of the new Drive-in Cleveland said the project was underway even before COViD-19 hit.

“We had been toying with the idea for a while,” Holden said, “but i just wasn’t sure how it would go over. But then COViD hit and everyone was stuck at home with the quarantine. With the walk-in theaters slowing down due to social distancing and the pandemic in general, nowadays people are wanting to get out of the house and do something other than watch their favorite streaming channels.”

Holden said the decision to bring back the drive-in to Cleveland became a reality after that.

Drive-in Cleveland is 100 percent COViD-19 friendly. tickets are purchased online and the price is $25 per vehicle. “and, it doesn’t matter how many people you pack into one vehicle; the more the merrier,” said Holden. “When you arrive you show your QR code for your receipt and it’s scanned, even through the window, you never have to make any contact whatsoever. you preorder your foods from the various food trucks that will be onsite throughout the showings, as well as any concessions. and the food trucks will rotate every weekend. you pick out your spot to park and watch online. you pull into that spot, tune in your radio station to whatever frequency we’re broadcasting on that night, and then enjoy the movie.”

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Holden said there will be a mix of old and new movies shown at Drive-in Cleveland. the drive-in opened it’s first night with a classic—Grease. Since then they’ve shown newer releases such as Bill and Ted Face the Music, Bad Boys for Life and a variety of older movies as well. thursday night is our mixed bag night; Friday night will be our double-features and generally the early show is more family oriented and the later movie may be more adult-driven. During Halloween and the holidays the choices were more seasonal Holden said they’re working hard to bring families closer together, while having fun safely. Movies are shown thursday— Sunday (angela Rogalski) 979 North Martin Luther King, Jr. Drive, Cleveland 662.305.9100, driveincleveland.com or driveincleveland on Facebook

SAUCE ACADEMY The saucier the better greenwood native timothy austin has spent his life dedicated to mixing ingredients in exact proportions. this pharmacist turned part-time barbecue sauce connoisseur discovered his love for sauces while working at Wing King, his sister’s restaurant. “at the time i owned a food truck called Wingtopia, in which i specialized in chicken wings,” he says. His offerings were a hit, mostly because of the special blend of his own creation he used to season his wings. From there, austin decided to pursue producing the popular sauces for commercial sale—and Sauce academy was born.

Sauce academy specializes in a variety of sauces that pair well with beef, pork, chicken and veggies. While based in Madison, this sauce company prides itself in its roots in the Mississippi Delta. “We currently offer our signature barbecue sauce, which can be bought online and shipped,” says austin.

“We also sell our sauce at greenwood Marketplace grocery Store and Bridge Bistro, also in greenwood.” austin says he will soon release more flavors including Hot toddy that is a honeybased sauce with a hint of heat. His goal is to release a new sauce flavor every two to three months to keep the palate guessing. For more information about Sauce academy and to receive updates on newly released flavors, follow them on their social media and website.

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sauceacademy.com, sauceacademyofficial on Facebook, @sauce.academy on Instagram 26 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

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2021 GOVERNOR’S ARTS AWARDS Three of the recipients have ties to the Delta the 2021 governor’s arts awards ceremony will take place in a broadcast-only format in February on Mississippi Public broadcasting. established in 1988, the gaa recognize individuals and organizations who have made contributions to and achieved artistic excellence. this year’s recipients are: Arthur Jafa, excellence in Media; Nellie McInnis, excellence in Music; Raphael Semmes, Cultural ambassador; Tutwiler Quilters, arts in Community; Jesmyn Ward, excellence in literature, and Benjamin Arthur Jafa Wright, lifetime achievement. three of the six 2021 recipients have ties to the Delta: Arthur Jafa spent significant portions of his youth in Clarksdale and tupelo and those experiences inform his work today as a filmmaker and artist working to address africanamerican identity through contemporary imagery. greenville native and gRaMMy winning composer and songwriter Benjamin Wright, and has worked with some of the biggest names in popular music over the past fifty years. the Tutwiler Quilters project was established to help african-american Jesmyn Ward women in the Mississippi Delta use their quilt-making skills to participate in the creative economy, and preserve the indigenous tradition of quilt-making. For more information about the ceremony go to their website. arts.ms.gov/programs/governors-arts-awards

RORY DOYLE

ROBERT HAMACHER

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Tutwiler Quilters

JAMES PATTERSON

BEOWULF SHEEHAN

Nellie McInnis

Raphael Semmes Benjamin Wright

LEFLUER INTERIORS New designer inspired home and gift store in Jackson What started as an idea just over a year ago has come to fruition for Heather Hixon of Jackson. leFleur interiors, a designer inspired home and gift store opened on november 3, just in time for the holiday shopping craze.

“We started thinking about the possibility of opening a store around a year ago. i had interiors booths at another store and loved buying for them.

But the store changed its business model at that time and stopped renting booth spaces,” Hixon explained. that’s when her husband tommy encouraged Hixon to start her own business. as luck would have it, an ideal space was available. “there was an old print shop that had been for sale for several years. it was hiding in plain sight right across from the post office in northeast Jackson,”

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she said. But the timing was somewhat stressful.

“We actually closed on the building the second week of March, at the beginning of Covid, so we just had to sit back and wait to see what would happen. But we started renovations—and the store turned out beautifully.” at leFleur interiors Hixon carries her own line of curated goods and gifts and leases out space to other designers. “With several designers, we can offer a wide variety of home accents, gift items, furniture and lighting. We feel that we have something for everyone and can offer unique things not previously seen in the Jackson area.” the store also features movable art walls where local artists can rent space and display their art work. “the art walls have added so much to the ambience of the store,” said Hixon.

Since opening, business has been booming. “the support has been amazing and we could not be more grateful. We know that times are different right now with COViD and just want to thank everyone for the outpouring of support the local community and surrounding areas have given us!”

1440 Old Square Road, Jackson 769.251.0761, lefluerinteriors.com, @lefluerinteriors Delta Magazine 2021

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BOOKS

Buzzworthy Comments

Nick by Michael Farris Smith (Little, Brown and Company) e mysterious narrator of e Great Gatsby finally has his own story told in Michael Farris Smith’s newest novel, Nick. is is not a new rendition of Fitzgerald’s beloved american novel, but is instead a story on its own, a sort of prequel that takes us all the way to the moment nick Carraway spots gatsby in West egg. nick struggles through deadly scenes during World War i while in love with a French woman named ella whom he must leave behind when he returns to the United States after the war. instead of returning home, he wanders to sin-ridden new Orleans during Prohibition. With this story of our lost and recovering famous narrator, we are seamlessly connected in its finality to Jay gatsby and Fitzgerald’s masterpiece. Smith once again enriches our imaginations with his vivid descriptions and exceptional language. (liza Jones)

Michael Farris Smith

We asked Facebook friends and Delta Magazine Fan Page Group members to share with us their favorite book they read in 2020. o John Cox, Attorney Cleveland, Mississippi

The Invisible Life of Addie LaRue by V.E. Schwab (V. E. Schwab) V.e. Schwab takes us into the supernatural with e Invisible Life of Addie LaRue. is novel is a slow burn with memorable characters and an enchanting atmosphere. in 1714 France, addie laRue is a young girl desperate to live a life that’s her own, and on the eve of her wedding, she bargains with a mystical power to live forever. Her payment is that everyone she meets will not remember her. Her everlasting life takes her everywhere, throughout three centuries, as she tries to lead a life that somehow makes a mark on the world, despite her curse. en she meets a man who remembers her, and her life is forever changed. anyone in the mood for fantasy and romance should not hesitate to get involved with this poetic story and the beautiful implications of it. (liza Jones)

The Wax Pack: On the Open Road in Search of Baseball’s Afterlife by Brad Balukjian. great read about a man who decided to travel the country (11k+ miles in 48 days!) to meet every player in a random pack of late 1980’s baseball cards— the era when he was a boy collecting cards. they’ve all retired, of course, and he seeks them out to see what they’re doing now that they’re no longer playing baseball. it’s a fun read that chronicles both the loss of childhood innocence and how nothing lasts forever.

V. E. Schwab

o Stephanie Hornesby, High School Testing Coordinator Chesterfield, Montana

Hunting Bear and Panther in the Old South by James T. McCafferty

The Book of Longings by Sue Monk Kidd. this book keep me turning page after page as fast as i could read. Defiantly my top pick for 2020.

(Canebrake Publishing Company)

the bear and panther that populated the woods and canebrakes of the lower Mississippi Valley in the 1800s left a permanent mark on the collective memory of that region. Unfortunately only a relatively small number of writings from that time have survived that provide real insight into the habits of those creatures and how the early settlers of that region hunted them. Writer James t. McCafferty has added richly to that scant body of Southern lore by collecting some wonderful but previously overlooked articles by an antebellum cotton planter and physician and presenting them in his new book, Hunting Bear and Panther in the Old South: The Writings of Dr. Henry J. Peck of Sicily Island, Louisiana. Hunters and lovers of Southern history will not be disappointed in this book. (Special/DM Staff )

o Stephanie Freely Case, English Language Arts Instructional Coach – Kids First Education Hernando, Mississippi

James T. McCafferty

For the Record Books Delta Magazine fans are currently reading

o Taylor Potter

The Deepest South of All

by Richard Grant

o Katie Huff

Get out of Your Head

by Jennie Allen

o Ronnie Bishop

Gently Scattered Intentions

by Laurie Parker

o Julianne Bailey

The City Baker’s Guide to Country Living

by Louise Miller 30 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

o Missi Gail

Smoke Bitten

by Patricia Briggs

o Patti Easley

The Half Has Never Been Told

by Edward E. Baptist

o Shaysha Shirley Kingsbury The Woman and the Sea

by Glenn Stout

Heart 2 Heart by Chuck Poer. this book is an effort to share Chuck’s story and mottos that have guided him in educational practice and in life. if you love reading this, you love the Mississippi Delta and probably Mississippi in general.

o Courtney Nashae Crocker Mississippi Mud

by Edward Humes

o Katherine Pearson Mere Christianity

by C. S. Lewis

o Lila Sorrells Hood The Masterpiece

by Francine Rivers

o Lisa Parker Tankersley God, Trump and COVID 19

by Stephen Strang

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The Milk Wagon by Michael Hewes (Samntoff Press) Mississippi native and attorney Mike Hewes has written yet another outstanding thriller, this one set in the 1980s.The Milk Wagon is a coming-of-age story about friendship, redemption, and how the ties made during high school can last a lifetime. as well as secrets. this story of three close knit friends—and an interesting new one who enters their lives—takes several twists and turns that will leave the reader wanting to rush to the climax and conclusion of events all while savoring Hewes’ colorful prose. involving the FBi, unscrupulous physicians and pharmacists, and reaching to high levels of the federal government, The Milk Wagon is destined to be a classic and one that belongs on every Mississippi reader’s bookshelf. Highly recommended. (Special/DM Staff ) Dolly Parton, Songteller: My Life in Lyrics

by Dolly Parton (Chronicle Books LLC) Dolly Parton is a national treasure, and her newest book, Dolly Parton, Songteller: My Life in Lyrics, is a multifaceted gigantic gem.

From her over sixty years of songwriting, Dolly Parton chooses to feature one hundred seventyfive songs to give more insight into her incredible life and personality. not only do we get to know the history behind the songs, but the book is full of gorgeous pictures and memorabilia. e sense we get from this creative autobiography is one of optimism and hope. even for those who aren’t country music fans, Dolly Parton is endlessly interesting. it is entirely uplifting to study this larger-than-life woman and the stories behind the lyrics she wrote. it is a hefty book, but an icon such as Dolly Parton deserves such. (liza Jones)

WH WHER WHE WHERE Y YOU YOUR YO TO TO-D TOTO-DO L LI LIS LIST IS I AL ALWAY ALWA ALW ALWAYS LONGER L LON LONG LONGE LO TH THA THAN Y YO YOUR YOU DAY D .

DA EQUIPM E NT FINANCING

P R OUD LY S E R V I NG NORT H MI S S I S S I P P I I MS L A N D BA N K.CO M

Mississippi Poets A Literary Guide

by Catharine Savage Brosman (University Press) Mississippi has produced outstanding writers in numbers far out of proportion to its population. their contributions to american literature, including poetry, rank as enormous. Mississippi Poets: A Literary Guide showcases forty-seven poets associated with the state and assesses their work with the aim of appreciating it and its place in today’s culture. in Mississippi, the importance of poetry can no longer be doubted. it partakes, as Faulkner wrote, of the broad aim of all literature: “to uplift man’s heart.” in Mississippi Poets, author Catharine Savage Brosman introduces readers to the poets themselves, stressing their versatility and diversity. She describes their subject matter and forms, their books, and particularly representative or striking poems. Of broad interest and easy to consult, this book is both a source of information and a showcase. it highlights the organic connection between poetry by Mississippians and the indigenous music genres of the region, blues and jazz. no other state has produced such abundant and impressive poetry connected to these essential american forms. (Special/DM Staff ) DM Delta Magazine 2021

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ART

Betsy Brackin Burch

dirtroad inspiration

KAREN FOCHT

Shaped by a love of nature, family, and a few trips around the globe, Memphis artist Betsy Brackin Burch’s landscapes explore expressionistic style

BY KAREN FOCHT

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“E

Raised in West Memphis, Burch recalls feeling close to the land– even as a young child—spending time on her grandfather’s farm near Osceola, arkansas and innumerable hours walking with her dad, brother and dogs looking for quail, doves, deer and ducks. But time spent at her family’s cabin at Horseshoe lake in a tiny lake community in arkansas, may have had the most impact, where the sunsets, the birds. and the wildlife helped shaped her love of the outdoors. “My family has a small fishing cabin there that we absolutely love. this oxbow lake has inspired my work for years,” said Burch. that childhood inspiration in the arkansas Delta is part of helped Burch evolve into a successful professional artist. in fact, she is known to some as “arkansas Betsy”.

Betsy says painting has always been her chosen medium–but sometimes she feels that painting chose her. “there wasn’t much in the way of art lessons offered in West Memphis schools at that time.

But a lady in Marion by the name of Sally Ware taught adult art lessons and luckily let me join her class. i was just naturally drawn to painting and did very little else in the way of extra curricular activities when i was young,” she explains.

Burch graduated from West Memphis High School in 1995 and earned a scholarship to Savannah College of art and Design where she attended for a couple of years, but eventually made her way back to Memphis. She graduated from the Memphis College of art with a BFa in 2000. “While i was in college, i lived in a cabin at Horseshoe lake. it’s only about forty minutes from Memphis and i am still a part of that community to this day,” says Burch.

KAREN FOCHT

VER SINCE I WAS A CHILD, nature has always been my main source of inspiration,” explains Memphis artist Betsy Brackin Burch.

Burch shares her love of painting and nature with her daughter Lucille.

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JAMIE HARMON

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Burch’s family fishing cabin at Horseshoe Lake.

after college, Burch’s career took a circuitous route. years were spent doing whatever was necessary to get by as a creative person, to stay dedicated to her painting, and to see and explore the world. She took advantage of every opportunity to travel. “i knew it would expand my perspective as well as influence my art career.”

Betsy has lived in many places and travelled the world, visiting europe, living and painting in italy, and spending five summers in greece. She also spent time in “the land Down Under”– new zealand–where the landscape is “breathtaking and like no other.” all along, Betsy worked odd jobs to support her art.

Her work history could only be described as eclectic. She has worked as a high-end wood finisher, decorative painter, waitress, bartender, nanny and dog sitter. She has been a caretaker of a 34 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

mountain chalet, sold fruit on the beach, and worked the desk at the Shack Up inn, the blues-themed hotel in Clarksdale. She’s painted houses, changed spark plugs, and washed boats. She has even worked as a roofer! all along, Betsy gathered insight to later express on canvas with the strokes of her brush. the american south eventually called her back home. Fastforward to today—Burch currently works out of a studio in the Medicine Factory in downtown Memphis, and she has had numerous shows in Memphis, arkansas, and Mississippi over the past two decades.

“Painting in my studio and outside is when i feel most like myself.” She loves to sit still and closely observe the landscape.

She has spent years gaining “dirt road inspiration” from MidSouth roads less traveled. Watercolors and acrylics in tow, she explores country roads in surrounding counties, often hauling out her supplies and setting up an easel right on the side of the road.

Fittingly, she describes her art as “landscape painting that explores the expressionistic style.” about eight years ago, she became reacquainted with longtime friend Brown Burch at an art event on a farm in arkansas.

Brown is a self-taught, professional, private chef who has worked in restaurants all over the world himself. the two had much in common: their creativity, love of nature, and both had ties to Horseshoe lake. “Brown’s father, who recently passed away, was friends with my mom years ago and he was from the Horseshoe lake area. Something that attracted us to each other is we both have roots in this part of the Delta and a love of Horseshoe.” they realized they had the right ingredients to make things work and decided to settle down and get married. luckily, living with an artist was

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nothing new for Brown—he comes from a family of artists, including his mother, grandmother and sister. life experiences have continued to shape Betsy’s evolving creativity. the arrival of their daughter, lucille, now age 5, brought new perspective; it was a time to take a break from her art and experience all the love, emotion and challenges a new baby brings.

But shortly thereafter, just five weeks after lucille was born, there was an unforeseen turn of events when she lost her mother suddenly. “it was such an indescribable time—to be so filled with love on one hand but completely heart broken on the other. My mother was my greatest supporter, and i still feel her encouragement.”

Betsy and her siblings—sister lucie is an attorney in Memphis, and brother Sam, a farmer—are very close, and together, they rallied after the tremendous blow. “We lost our biggest cheerleader when our mom passed away. now we are each other’s,” she explains.

Burch’s southern heritage and culture continue to be woven into her soul and expressed in her artwork. the inequality she has observed in her lifetime, not just in the South but also all over the world, has made an impact. as a child she was moved by segregated schools and neighborhoods and by the realization that some of the adults she knew in the black community couldn’t read or write.

Working as a part-time mail carrier in rural arkansas gave her

insight. “i witnessed the extreme poverty that exists in our country. an awakening happened within me, and it was through my artwork that i was best able to grapple with and articulate the complex emotions i was experiencing.”

“My use of deep blues and grays represent the emotionally heavy history that lingers in the south; and for contrast i employ a softer color palette to turn the dark history of the Delta on its head. it’s through this use of color that i want to highlight the subtle beauty and vibrancy that is present in the landscape, despite the dark history.”

Betsy was shaped by the generations that came before her and she hopes to pass a part of herself forward as well—through her art and in motherhood. “i am raising my daughter to be a creative free spirit,” she says, and in her opinion, lucille is her most beautiful creation. although Betsy no longer has the freedom to roam quite as she once did, she’s honoring her family tradition by exploring the fields and nature with lucille, and as they look for wildlife together, Betsy teaches her not to just look at the land, but to see it as an artist.

Betsy is currently taking commission work and is working about a year out. She is represented by the george gallery in Charleston, South Carolina. georgegalleryart.com. Her website is www.betsybrackin.com. DM Delta Magazine 2021

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MUSIC

Stuck in Clarksdale with the Delta Blues

BY JIM BEAUGEZ

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AUSTIN BRITT

Artist, producer, and aficionado Gary J. Vincent holes up in his Delta digs and livestreams music to the world

AUSTIN BRITT

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D

elta transplant Gary J. Vincent has been many things in life. A Nashville hitmaker, a producer of Grammy-nominated records, and Morgan Freeman’s voiceover engineer are among the most recognizable hats he’s worn. But for the past year, all he’s really wanted to do is rock.

AUSTIN BRITT

AUSTIN BRITT

after years away from the road, the man behind country music hits for Chris leDoux, Mickey gilley and leon Redbone stepped away from his mixing desk at the Clarksdale Soundstage for a bicoastal U.S. tour, then set up camp playing regular gigs in Memphis. When the COViD-19 pandemic hit, like most musicians, his schedule suddenly cleared. But not for long. “there’s a great bar called Huey’s [in midtown Memphis] that i was frequenting, and was building a fan base there, right when COViD hit,” says Vincent. “i thought, ‘i’ll just have to put the artist career on hold.’” instead, he and his wife Carol, an in-demand nashville music publishing administrator, began streaming performances live from the soundstage and recording studio on Facebook live. the “Clarksdale Stuck in the House Party,” as they call it, has become a weekly event with guest artists and lighthearted and humorous stories from decades spent in the music business. “the interaction has been a blast because people comment and i’m able to respond,” he says. “i’ve been staying in touch with family and friends that way.” every week they draw between 500 and 1,000 viewers for performances of blues and americana music. growing up in the Chicago area, Vincent’s introduction to the blues wasn’t from Muddy Waters, Howlin’ Wolf or any of the artists working the southside music halls. instead, it was the thundering blues interpretations of led zeppelin. He took that passion to Delta Magazine 2021

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AUSTIN BRITT

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Gary performing with harmonica blues great, Charlie Musselwhite.

performer as he continued to write and publish songs. glaser lined him up with players like Joe Osborn, a member of the famed Wrecking Crew session-musician network in l.a. and the a-team in nashville. Vincent admits he was always a rock ‘n’ roll guy, not country—but he made lifelong friends and mentors with Osborn and others in his band.

Vincent gigged extensively in nashville and signed a promising artist development deal that fizzled when the record company went under. “to be honest, i was tired of pursuing a record deal,” he says. “My passion was writing. When it folded, i started considering a change in my life and that’s about when i met Morgan Freeman.” the two became friends on one of the Vincents’ many trips to Clarksdale, where their lives had circled back to the blues. the couple worked with music attorneys for the Robert Johnson estate on ways to promote the blues legend’s legacy, such as creating the Robert Johnson youth achievement award. Vincent also partnered with Freeman and Bill luckett to start ground zero Blues Club AUSTIN BRITT

Wheeling, West Virginia, where he attended college, and began playing gigs in nearby Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

He knew his days there were numbered, though. “Playing guitar was fun and performing was fun,” he says, “but my passion was in writing the songs.” Out of three possible music hubs—los angeles, new york City and nashville, tennessee—he chose the latter for its “big small town” ethos.

Vincent soon fell in with the glaser Sound Studios scene, the hub of nashville’s “outlaw” country music stars like Waylon Jennings and Willie nelson, and a hangout for fringier characters Kinky Friedman, Shel Silverstein and Dr. Hook & the Medicine Show, whose founder george Cummings grew up in Meridian, Mississippi. Roger Schutt, known to local WSM radio listeners as Captain Midnight, even set up a bed in the shower and lived there for a while, Vincent says. “i was actually the whisky boy, the guy just sitting in the back of the room,” he recalls. “When they started running out of booze, around 2 o’clock in the morning, i’d be the guy who went out and got the last call of booze and brought it back.”

He was an errand boy for only six months when his first hit song, “Doo-Wah Days,” recorded by natchez native Mickey gilley, hit the top 10 on country radio. “then they started looking seriously at me and signed me to a production deal-slashwriter’s deal. tompall glaser (studio co-owner and hitmaker] was the guy who was responsible for that.”

For a while, they worked at molding Vincent into a country

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Vincent interviews Red Paden of the famous Red’s Juke Joint located in downtown Clarksdale.

Gary and Carol with Led Zeppelin icon, Robert Plant (center, back row), singer Patty Griffin, and Plant’s band The Sensational Shape Shifters.

Carol and Gary in the early days.

Music, a joint-venture offshoot from the famed Clarksdale club that created video content for worldwide distribution. their video of “Bad to the Bone” by george thorogood received over 16 million youtube views.

Before long, the Vincents made their move permanent and bought the 7,000-square-foot building that became the Clarksdale Soundstage. nashville, the town that gave him his first music success and sustained him for years, had changed. true country music was out, and pop country moved in. “When Waylon Jennings and Willie nelson can’t get a record deal in nashville, or Don Williams for that matter, i knew it wasn’t for me anymore.” the soundstage concept followed Vincent’s forays into video production, both at ground zero and at music events like the King Biscuit Blues Festival in Helena, arkansas. While the original vision was to promote the soundstage for film and television production, it gradually became more of a recording studio. He made grammynominated records with elvin Bishop and Charlie Musselwhite, and hosted Robert Plant and the Sensational Shape Shifters on the eve of their U.S. debut at the Sunflower Blues Festival in august 2012. “that was really cool to have him here,” he says. “they had, like, 20 people involved in the show. they have a whole marketing team that travels with them. People all over the green room, and then all the musicians in the studio working at the same time. it was really a world-class band.”

Four cool dudes outside the Visit Clarksdale tent at the Waterfront Blues Festival in Portland, Oregon. Left to right, Stan Street, Gary Vincent, Mark Whitlow, and O’Keefe, director the Clarksdale Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Clarksdale welcomed the Vincents with just as much enthusiasm as they did the former led zeppelin frontman Plant, and the Vincents embraced the local culture in return.

“Here’s the truth of the matter,” he says. “every time we came to Clarksdale, before we left to go back to nashville, we were asking ourselves, ‘when are we coming back?’ and we did that so many times, we thought, ‘why are we going back?’” DM The Clarksdale Stuck in the House Party streams live from the Les Paul Lounge at the Clarksdale Soundstage on Facebook every Sunday at 1 p.m. Central. Catch it at www.facebook.com/garyj.vincent.5 (no Facebook login needed).

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A Motorcycle Trip Around the World

BY LIZA JONES

The Mississippi Delta was part of Elspeth Beard’s destination as she traveled the globe on the back of her BMW R60/6

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ccomplishing this endevorer, Beard would become the first British woman to motorcycle around the world.

And, part of her journey included a pass through the Mississippi Delta. She tells the riveting adventure story in her memoir, Lone Rider.

A

in london, during the summer of 1982, Beard was working twelve-hour days to make enough money for her journey around the globe, planning and preparing for it, getting over a painful breakup, and finishing her degree in architecture. Once she shipped her

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beloved motorcycle to new york, her decision became real, and in the end, she would thank her unbelievers for that. “none of my friends and family believed i could do it. the numerous sarcastic comments and chauvinism i received from people generally, including the motorcycle press before i left, only spurred me on,” says Beard. “i was determined to succeed and to prove them all wrong no matter what hardships i had to endure.”

When she arrived in new york in October of 1982, her mind was a jumble. She was addled by anxious thoughts of money, time, uncertain spots in her itinerary, and how to navigate people’s reactions to a female biker traveling alone. as she traveled into Canada and back down through the United States, Beard soon found that it was more agreeable to show people she was a woman because there was a general sense that motorcyclists were bad news during that time. this

notion would later be flipped on its head toward the end of her US leg when a biker gang in arizona would dangerously challenge her because they saw she was a woman and also during her time in asia.

Beard was thoughtful about her itinerary, and everywhere she went was intentional in order to see something extraordinary that she had always wanted to see. She learned this from her father who, on family trips, would stop at every single site there was to visit, even if only for a few minutes. From riding into Canada to see niagara Falls, to Detroit to stay with family, through the prairies of the Midwest, into the Smokey Mountains, and finally into the Deep South for its sites and better weather, she chose her route carefully. the Deep South part of her US leg began with nashville, where it disappointed her that no one wore cowboy hats and boots. in Memphis, graceland was closed. Mississippi was just a way to get to

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JACADATRAVEL.COM

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Opposite page, Elspeth Beard in 1982 as she leaves her home in England, embarking on a trip around the world on the back of her 1974 BMWR60/6 motorcycle. Beard’s global journey included a pass through the Mississippi Delta beginning in Memphis, where she visited Graceland, capturing an image of the iconic gates. She then traveled south down Highway 61 and snapped a photo of a cotton field as she exited the Delta.

new Orleans from Memphis until she broke free of the interstate and ventured into the Mississippi Delta, where, she writes, “the air felt warmer, the accents sounded broader, and the speech became slower the further south i went.”

Beard writes that passing through the Delta’s cotton fields, she felt life slowing down for her. She stopped on Highway 61 and took a photograph in complete silence, where she felt “absolute peace, one of those perfect moments, just me on my own in a motionless environment. no cars, no voices. nobody there. no one wanting anything from me. i loved it. it was exactly what i’d been seeking for the last few months.” this ride through the Mississippi Delta, was the first time during her trip around the world that Beard was able to get out of her mind and enjoy the moment. it was a breakthrough for her in many ways.

“Since making my decision eight months earlier to ride my motorbike around the world, my life had been very hectic,” says Beard. “i suddenly found myself in the middle of Mississippi. i remember feeling a real need to find some peace and quiet to reflect on what i was doing and why.” it was not only the quintessential Mississippi Delta peace and quiet that endeared her to this region. “For me, having lived in london all my life, i had rarely experienced the feeling of being completely alone,” says Beard. after a stop to see the Vicksburg national Battleground and continuing on into new Orleans, Beard rode through louisiana, texas, new Mexico, and arizona. Finally, in California, she shipped her motorcycle to australia where she continued her journey, which lasted for two years.

Beard’s story is captivating and empowering: hitchhiking around new zealand, a job at an architecture firm in Sydney, a wreck and a flood in the outback, hopping around the primitive islands of indonesia, a theft in Singapore. She briefly lived with a family on their farm after her second wreck in thailand. She battled backward bureaucracy and desperate poverty in india and hiked the Himalayas while in nepal. She struggled with sickness, misogyny, political upheaval, and, of course, plenty of mechanic troubles with her motorcycle as she made her way through the Middle east and back into europe. along the way, she fell in love twice with two different men.

Her trip around the world completely altered the direction of Beard’s life. it certainly boosted her professional life in architecture.

Beard says even geographical expanses like the Mississipppi Delta and the outback changed her vision as an architect. “it made me realize that building anything was possible. there was no limit to my imagination and there was not one project, however complex, that i couldn’t do,” says Beard. “to convert these types of buildings successfully, you have to think out of the box, which was a skill i learned when travelling around the world.”

Beard is now an award-winning architect and runs her own firm outside of london. She still has her old BMW motorcycle that she traveled to globe on. and, she has never forgotten her journey through the Mississippi Delta. DM

A recent photo of Beard sitting on her famous motorcyle. This photo was taken by renowned photographer, Anita Corbin for Corbin’s UK series, First Women Portraits which debuted at the Brighton Museum exhibit. Below, after leaving the Delta, Beard traveled on to Vicksburg and New Orleans.

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Annual Tourism Issue

Road trips. Day trips. Staycations—or just a stroll through town.

If you live in the Delta you may choose from any of these options to feed your creative soul. Art is scattered throughout our small towns and sometimes it’s in plain sight—from incredible sculptures to murals to whimsical carvings that adorn our downtown streets. This year we highlight several public art displays as well as galleries and exhibit spaces that provide venues for artists to exhibit their work.

Never before has it been more important to support the local art scene, festivals, museums and restaurants in this network of small towns we call the Delta. We encourage you to study the Delta Detour section and every ad on the following pages to see what each special town has to offer. You will be amazed at just how much there is to see and do—right here at home.

Clarksdale

Clarksdale Murals

Clarksdale has long been known as the Birthplace of the Blues, but now has another artistic claim. In the last few years, local and international street artists have transformed many downtown buildings, with colorful murals. From Clint Eastwood to more animated images these works vary greatly in content and color. The town’s newest addition features Robert Johnson, Mississippi John Hurt, and Muddy Waters. Fittingly, it was painted on the side of Ground Zero Blues Club.

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Searching for Art in the Delta From public sculptures, carved bears, murals—not to mention art galleries and other dedicated spaces, you won’t have to look far for original art in the Delta!

Clarksdale

Hayden G. Hall Art Gallery

Opened by artist Hayden G. Hall and his wife Erica Eason Hall in November, their new gallery is an important addition to the Clarksdale art scene. Hayden is a self-taught oil landscape painter specializing in Delta landscapes. Erica runs the gallery operations and handles all appointments (the gallery is currently open by appointment only), commission orders and the website. Original works and prints can also be viewed and purchased through the website. Call 662-902-1365 to schedule an appointment!

247 Delta Avenue 662.902.1365, haydenghallart.com

Vicksburg

Highway 61 Coffee House and the Attic Gallery

Stop in for your caffeine fix then head upstairs to the Attic Gallery on the second floor of this which boasts an impressive collection of Southern folk art, fine art, pottery glass and handmade jewelry.

1101 Washington Street 601.638.9221, visitvicksburg.com/attic-gallery

Belzoni

Catfish on Parade

Belzoni is widely known as the Catfish Capitol of the World—so it only stands to reason that there would be vibrantly painted fiberglass catfish standing sentinel in front of local businesses. A public art project comprised of 42 installations, you won’t want to miss these clever characters scattered throughout town.

Spend a day exploring Belzoni and see them all! belzonims.com 50 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

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Cleveland

The Studio 230 Art Gallery

Studio 230 Art Gallery in downtown Cleveland, is the atelier (studio) of artist Cetin Oguz, who came to the United States from Istanbul, Turkey. Oguz has been a professor of art, painting, and drawing at Delta State University since 2003. In addition to housing Oguz’s own creative works and those of several other artists, the Studio 230 Art Gallery is available for exhibits and may be leased for private events as well.

110 South Court Street 601.402.0379, studio230ms.com

Vicksburg

H. C. Porter Gallery

H.C. Porter is a photographer, painter, and printmaker who calls herself a “professional wanderer.” Her work consists of mixed media originals and fine art photography. She has published two books including the popular Blues @ Home which was created originally as a traveling exhibition. Her gallery is a must-stop for art lovers in downtown Vicksburg.

1216 Washington Street 601.661.9444, hcporter.com

Yazoo City

Yazoo Guitars

With a Main Street, that was nearly abandoned a decade ago, Yazoo City’s downtown is now a tourist attraction with rainbow colored buildings lining the streets. Also dotting the streets are hand-painted wooden guitars donated by the local fire-department as a nod to the Delta blues. Take a ride through this historic colorful town and see if you can find them all! visityazoo.org Delta Magazine 2021

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Cleveland

Cotton House

If you’re staying as a guest or just enjoying a day in downtown Cleveland check out the lobby of the Cotton House Hotel. A carefully curated collection of Southern art adorns the hotel lobby—which feels like a living room filled with modern, but comfortable seating areas. In addition to the permanent art hanging in the space, there is a dedicated rotating gallery hall to showcase the works of local artists. The inaugural exhibit was a collection of Mississippi author Eudora Welty’s iconic photographs, and since then Delta artists such as, Allyson Hardy, Hayden Hall and Bill Lester’s works have graced the walls.

215 Cotton Row 662.843.7733, cottonhousecleveland.com

Delta State University

The Mathews-Sanders Sculpture Garden

Take a stroll through the Mathews-Sanders Sculpture Garden. Originally located on the lawn of the Bologna Performing Arts Center at Delta State University—it has now expanded across the street at the GRAMMY® Museum Mississippi, and along the green strip downtown. The brainchild of the late Pam Mathews and artist and arts advocate Nan Sanders, this incredible collection of original sculpture has transformed this Delta town into a life-size art gallery. Guided tours are available by calling the Bologna Performing Arts Center.

Highway 8 West 662.846.4625, thesculpturegardenms.com

Rolling Fork

Carved Bears of Rolling Fork

Scattered around the city of Rolling Fork are fourteen carved wooden bears that are worth a tour to see!

Every year in early October, Rolling Fork hosts the Great Delta Bear Affair, to celebrate the birthplace of the Teddy Bear. Each year on this occasion, a new bear is carved by a chainsaw artist from a cypress trunk in honor of the history and lore surrounding Teddy Roosevelt’s famed bear hunting expedition with guide Holt Collier that led to the creation of the “Teddy Bear.” So, the next time you’re in the area, pick up a guide at the visitor’s center and spend the day on your own personal bear hunt!

Visitors Center and Museum, 380 Walnut Street 662.873.2232, lowerdelta.org

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Cleveland

Delta Arts Alliance at the Ellis Theater

The Delta Arts Alliance serves as a bridge to connect diverse cultures through their contributions to the arts, to create a common vision, and to develop strategies for making the arts a more prominent part of daily life. Located in the restored and repurposed historic Ellis Movie theater in downtown Cleveland, the DAA sponsors regular rotating exhibits by local artists, such as naturalist Robin Whitfield, photographer Rory Doyle, Amie Oliver, Hart Henson and others. They also offer art classes, dance lessons and other events.

104 South Court Street 662.843.3344, deltaartsalliance.org

Greenville

E.E. Bass Center

The Malkin Art Gallery is housed inside the E.E. Bass Cultural Arts Center.

The historic school was renovated by the Greenville Arts Council which is also located there. The Malkin Gallery generally hosts six exhibits during a calendar year. Notable artists who have had shows in the past include John Lawrence, Bill Beckwith, Alex O’Neal, Laurin Stennis, Lisa Paris, Byron Myrick, Wyatt Waters, Cathy Hegman, Jamie Tate, Ellen Langford and most recently, Rick Anderson.

323 South Main Street 662.332.2246, greenville-arts-council.com

1901 Armitage Herschell Carousel

E.E. Bass is also home to the 1901 Armitage Herschell Carousel. Built between 1894 and brought to Greenville in 1901, the carousel is a primitive two row track “country style” carousel with twenty-four horses and four chariots hand carved from Poplar wood. Meticulously hand painted, it is one of the two oldest working Armitage Herschell Carousels in the country and the only one in the South. The carousel can be rented for parties or private events.

323 South Main Street 662.332.2246, greenville-arts-council.com

Oxford

Southside Gallery

Since 1993, Southside Gallery has been a vibrant addition to the Oxford community and iconic Oxford Square. Southside is a commercial gallery that continues to actively promote the arts through its monthly exhibition program, frequent artist receptions, and other public events. Exhibiting artists over the years have included Bill Dunlap, Maude Schuyler Clay, Jere Allen and Laurin McCracken among many others. Currently exhibiting is Jerrod Partridge.

150 Courthouse Square 662.234.9090, southsideartgallery.com Delta Magazine 2021

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VISIT CARROLLTON

Pioneer Day Festival

Step back in time with a visit to Historic Carrollton, Mississippi.

Organized in 1834, the Town became a bustling community that prospered until the early 1900s. Once listed as an Endangered Site by the Mississippi Heritage Trust, Carrollton is now thriving in the 21st century. Download the free Walking Tour of Carrollton, MS app from The App Store or Google Play.

VisitCarrolltonMs.com

Pioneer Day Festival honors the founding of Carroll County in 1833 with this annual arts and crafts festivals, as well as educational opportunities.

Held the first Saturday in October, it is part of the annual Pilgrimage.

662.392.4810 VisitCarrolltonMs.com

Merrill Museum

The Carrollton\ Community House

The Merrill Museum tells the story of Carroll County, from Indian days to the present. Exhibits include antique bottles, arrowheads, Joy’s Toys, and family items from the John S McCain family and author Elizabeth Spencer. It is open during the annual Pilgrimage and for group tours by appointment.

Call 662-237-6910 for group tour info.

The Community House was born out of the Great Depression and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2019. It is the site of A Taste of Soup and Art Exhibit the first Saturday in February. Tickets are $10; available by calling 662-392-4810.

For information about renting for an event, call Carrollton Town Hall at 662-237-4600.

DELTA URS DETO

Annual Tour of Historic Homes and Churches Historic homes in Carrollton range in date from 1828 to 1936. A selection of these family homes will be open for tours during the annual Pilgrimage the first weekend in October and for group tours by appointment. www.VisitCarrolltonMS.com or 662-392-4810 email: CarrolltonMsTours@gmail.com

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*Events held in Carrollton follow Covid-19 recommendations.

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SOUTHERN S O P H I S T I C AT I O N

In Columbus, Mississippi, beauty and excitement abound. The morning sun dances on the Tennessee-Tombigbee River, a sight best admired from the Columbus River Walk, and gives a glimpse of the splendor of the day ahead. From here the playbill is packed with grand entrances and friendly faces around every corner.

Experience Southern sophistication while exploring the place we call home. When you visit Columbus, plan a tour of the first home of Pulitzer Prize- winning playwright, Tennessee Williams.

Tennessee Williams Museum Home & Welcome Center 300 Main Street | 800.920.3533 VisitColumbusMS.org

#VisitMSResponsibly For the most updated information regarding COVID-19, please visit visitmississippi.org/covid-19-travel-alert The Mississippi State Department of Health is operating a hotline to answer questions about COVID-19: 877.978.6453

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Vicksburg National Military Park

McRaven Tour Home

Established on February 21, 1899 to commemorate the siege and defense of Vicksburg, the 16-mile tour road of the park includes 1,325 historic monuments and markers, 20 miles of historic trenches and earthworks, a 12.5-mile walking trail, 144 emplaced cannons, a national cemetery, an ironclad Union gunboat, and two antebellum homes.

Named the “most haunted house in Mississippi” and the “third most haunted house in the United States,” McRaven has a haunted history of over 160 years. Popular for being built in three different periods, National Geographic called it the “Time Capsule of the South.”

DELTA URS DETO

Downtown Vicksburg Catfish Row

Stroll the brick-paved streets of our historic downtown and visit our boutique and antique gift shops, art galleries and fantastic dining. Experience one of the Great American Main Street Association’s Top 10 Main Streets in the USA in downtown Vicksburg—Simply. Uniquely. Southern.

David Cohn wrote that “the Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel in Memphis and ends on Catfish Row in Vicksburg.” Today’s Catfish Row features a children’s art park and splash fountain, riverfront murals, museums, the Levee Street Marketplace and LD’s Kitchen—Vicksburg’s home to great catfish and Tuesday night blues.

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Vicksburg’s newest restaurant, 10 South Rooftop Bar & Grill, overlooks our beautiful historic downtown with spectacular views of the Mississippi River, Yazoo Diversion Canal and Centennial Lake.

The area’s only “open air” grill with a full bar features specialty burgers, barbecue, seafood and other Southern specialties.

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Vibrant Downtown Long ago, farmers scattered across the Delta would congregate on Cotton Row in downtown Cleveland to bring their finest harvest to market. Today this Historic Crosstie Shopping District offers a diverse array of specialty shops, antique stores, boutiques and café s within the area, as well as the new Cotton House Hotel located right in the middle of it all!

GRAMMY ® Museum Mississippi The Museum features permanent and traveling exhibits, contentrich interactives, and films that educate and inspire music lovers of all ages. The Museum covers the history of recorded music of all genres while showcasing Mississippi’s impact on American music.

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Pottery Destination Many folks make the trek to Bolivar County to visit world-famous pottery establishments McCartys Pottery of Merigold and Peter’s Pottery in Mound Bayou. While you are shopping at McCartys, visit the incredible Gardens of McCartys, as well as The Gallery lunch spot. Both Peter’s and McCartys are a must-visit to peruse the coveted pieces made from Delta clay.

Entertainment Cleveland is a hotbed of activity for live music and entertainment.

On any given night of the week, both local and touring artists can be found in the restaurants in the area. With venues such as the Bologna Performing Arts Center, that presents national touring productions, and the Delta Music Institute’s recording program at Delta State University, Cleveland is the place to be to get immersed in the sounds of great entertainment.

The Spirit of the Blues The early 1900s saw an influx of migrant workers in the Delta.

Aspiring musicians gravitated to the Cleveland area because Charley Patton called it home. More specifically, he called Will Dockery’s Plantation home. Dockery Plantation is a fabulous place to feel the spirit of the Blues. As B.B. King famously said of Dockery, “…You might say it all started right here.” There are 18 blues markers that stretch from the Mississippi River Road Highway 1, to the Blues Highway 61. Be sure and stop by the office of the Delta Center for Culture and Learning and see the Cast of Masks featuring plaster castings of famous bluesmen and women by artist Sharon McConnell.

small town. big vibes. #safevibes | #VisitMSresponsibly

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Safari Wild Animal Park & Preserve Experience African animals, camel rides, and giraffe feeding stations

BY ANGELA ROGALSKI

driving through six and a half Imagine miles of African safari roads

in your own car and interacting with, feeding, and photographing wild animals as you make your way through the wilds of africa. Well, if you can imagine it—you can do it at the Safari Wild animal Park & Preserve in Como. the 467-acre wildlife preserve opened in May 2019 after two years of planning that involved designing the park, building the roads and fencing, securing the permits for hundreds of african animals, and much more. all of the hard work and planning came to fruition and now the Park has been open for a little over a year. Owner Brooke garrett says that the experience of feeding llamas, camels, zebras, water buffalo and giraffes up close and personal, from the confines of your own vehicle no less, is something people of all ages can enjoy. a visit to the safari park makes for a perfect day-trip with the drive-through tour taking about two hours by vehicle, but when the safari is finished, there’s still much more to do. and unlike many businesses during the pandemic, business has been booming. “We’ve been extremely busy due to the pandemic as people have been searching for something fun and safe to do,” garrett adds.

“When you enter the park, you pay your admission at the ticket booth and then buy your bags of feed to feed the animals as you drive through the Safari. you drive the six or so miles of Safari Road at your leisure and in the comfort and safety of your own vehicle. the animals will come up to your

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car periodically and you can feed them from the bags of feed that you purchased.” the animals come at random and of their own free will to feed as you drive through the park. But that’s not all; in addition to the exotic excursion, there’s more.

“We also have camel rides and a giraffe feeding station where you can purchase carrots to hand feed the giraffes and a petting barn with goats and sheep inside that you can also feed. We have a lorikeet aviary too—you can purchase a cup of nectar and the birds will actually land on you to drink the nectar. it’s a very unique and fun experience.”

“We’re reasonably priced and we encourage people to come and visit us. it’s a wonderful thing you can do with your family that is safe, fun, and something that you might not normally get to do. and with the COViD fears, it’s perfect, you can stay in your own car through the entire Safari.

Seeing animals grazing in their natural environment is educational and a lot of fun.”

Safari Wild animal Park & Preserve is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. and on Sundays, from noon until 4 p.m. it’s located at 1549 Rooks Road, Como, Mississippi about forty miles south of Memphis. admission to the park is $16 per adult and $12 per child. However, once you pay, you can drive through the park as many times as you’d like. DM For more information visit: safariwildanimalpark.com

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Tanger Outlets With more than 70 stores to visit, Tanger Outlets in Southaven is a one-stop shop to buy something for everyone in the family. From children’s clothes to athletic gear, Tanger Outlets has it all.

Boutiques Explore boutique offerings throughout DeSoto County, from The Pink Coconut to Magnolia House and more. Whether you’re looking for gifts for kids, outdoorsmen or even foodies, DeSoto County has unique options for all.

Restaurants Pizza, burgers and brews: Olive Branch is home to a culinary trifecta of locally owned establishments located just outside the town's historic square. Visit the talented chefs and teams behind SideStreet Burgers, OB Pizza Co. and Mississippi Ale House for a taste of DeSoto County.

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Outdoor Activities Visit Hernando DeSoto River Park in Walls to take in breathtaking views of the Mighty Mississippi while you bike, walk or fish along its banks. Or, visit Snowden Grove to play a round of mini golf or have a friendly tennis match. Cedar Hill Farm offers outdoor family fun, as well, and is an attraction that should not be missed!

History A trip to DeSoto County can be as educational as you wish!

Follow along the Mississippi Freedom Trail or check out Mississippi Blues Trail Markers to learn about the area’s history.

And, Brussel’s Bonsai Nursery in Olive Branch offers a unique way to educate yourself and the kids about nature.

For more information, visit www.visitdesotocounty.com. #VisitMSResponsibly

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Shiloh National Military Park

Tennessee River Museum

Over 5000 acres of Civil War history, 150 monuments, 200 cannons, 650 historic tablets plus Shiloh Indian Mounds, a National Historic Landmark itself, are located within park boundaries. Visitors Center includes museum, bookstore and orientation film. nps.gov/shil 1055 Pittsburg Landing Road, Shiloh, TN 38376

This historical museum is a tribute to the Tennessee River and its influence on the land, people and the heritage of the Valley. Beginning with the Moundbuilders, visitors can explore Pioneer life, the Trail of Tears, Ironclad ships, Steamboats and life today on the water. tennesseerivermuseum.org 495 Main Street, Savannah, TN 38372

DEELTTOAURS D

Tennessee Street Park Pickwick Landing State Park

Gated five-acre park that boasts two splash pads, two playgrounds (ages 5 & under and 12 & under), walking trail, outdoor exercise equipment, pavilions, and a 20-foot tall fountain as the focal point. cityofsavannah.org/parks-recreation 200 Tennessee Street, Savannah, TN 38372

Noted for its excellent water recreation the lake and river offer fishing, boating, swimming and a marina. Accommodations on the park include a newly remodeled Lodge and restaurant, cabins and camping. Guests can also enjoy golfing, birding, kayaking, disc golf, nature walks and yearround events. tnstateparks.com/parks/pickwick-landing 120 Playground Loop, Counce, TN 38326

The Outpost www.TourHardinCounty.org 495 Main Street, Savannah, Tennessee 38372.

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Located near Pickwick Landing State Park, the Outpost is tucked away from all the hustle and bustle of society. This general store restaurant offers dining, shopping, catering, lodging, event center, fishing supplies, outdoor beauty, and southern hospitality. Come enjoy this rustic southern dining experience. tourhardincounty.org 2175 HWY 128, Savannah, TN 38372

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800-647-6724 • www.visitnatchez.org

GRAND VILLAGE OF THE NATCHEZ INDIANS Ancient stories live on at the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians.

Explore the original Natchez at this important mound site through interpretive signs and virtual experiences.

Call 601.446.6502 or visit https://www.mdah.ms.gov/exploremississippi/grand-village-natchez-indians

Natchez Trails: Museum of the Streets Explore miles of architectural treasures and interesting history about this fascinating town. Natchez is also home to several markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail and the Mississippi Mound Trail. For more details call 601.446.6345 or visit www.visitnatchez.org/business/natcheztrails-and-walking-tour

Longwood Built in 1860, Longwood is the largest octagonal house in the South and one of Natchez's most iconic historic museum homes.

Call 601.442.5193 or visit https://www.visitnatchez.org/business/ longwood-historic-home

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Smoot’s Grocery This lively converted juke joint is one of the best places to find live music in Natchez!

Visit https://www.visitnatchez.org/business/smoots-grocery

Under the Hill District Home to one of the oldest bars on the Mississippi River, Under the Hill offers some of the best food and views Natchez has to offer.

Call 601.446.6345 or visit Visitnatchez.org

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Klondyke Trading Post in Vicksburg Located on the river in an area once dominated by gamblers and thieves

BY HANK BURDINE

THROUGHOUT THE YEARS, Vicksburg has never disappointed me in the wonderful things it has to offer. From the commanding views of the Mississippi River, the Vicksburg national Military Park’s battlefields, historical buildings, sites and wonderful museums and restaurants, Vicksburg has always beckoned. and, a few years ago, i stumbled upon another gem, the Klondyke trading Post. the current home of the Klondyke is a converted filling station built in the 1940’s, just north of glass Bayou, an old natural harbor right off the river. During the 1830’s, this area was known as Kangaroo and was a hideout for gamblers, thieves and ruffians who gathered there just outside of the city limits. On July 5, 1835, Dr. Hugh Bodley was murdered by the gamblers when he led a posse of local citizens to rid the area of the undesirables. a fight ensued, gunshots rang out, and Bodley was killed. the citizens rose in anger, seizing several of the men and hung them, avenging his death. Bodley was revered as a martyr for defending the morals of Vicksburg. today, that area is home to the Klondyke trading Post, owned and operated by three generations of the local 66 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

Miller family and others, until recently coming under new ownership. throughout the decades, however, the traditions and time proven recipes and certain menu selections have remained. the first time i stopped by, i was traveling with a group of friends including leland Mayor Kenny thomas after attending the dedication of the Jesse Brent lower Mississippi River Museum. Many times i had passed the old converted gas

station on Old Highway 61, nestled at the base of the Vicksburg Bluffs and surrounded by Civil War battlefields and national cemetaries, but had never paid much attention to it, much less gone inside.

Kenny said, “Come on! yall ain’t gonna believe this place!” (it was obvious he had been there before!) i noticed the sign, Klondyke trading Post, as i reached for one of a pair of authentic 12 gauge double barreled hammer shotguns welded to the outer doors and used as door handles. “i’m liking this place already”, i said as i walked in. in front of me was a hot plate serving counter and the usual small dining tables along with shelves stocked with loaves of bread, canned goods and accoutrements you may find in a good ole country store. it was then i heard the music. to the left and domineering the place was as quaint a little dance hall as i’ve ever been in, and that’s saying something! a long barstool studded bar enshrined one wall and tables were scattered about surrounding a small intimate (yeah, right) dance floor. no band was on the stage as it was Karaoke night with folks lined up

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The Klondyke in Vicksburg continues to be one of the town’s unique watering holes. And, don’t let the front door pulls, that consist of two double barreled shotguns, stop you from entering!

to sing—and the place was rocking. We were able to commandeer a long table right in the middle of the dancehall and the boogieing began. a very friendly waitress came over, leaned down and said, “What you want, Honey? We got set-ups, cold beer, steaks and just about the best cheeseburger this side of the Mississippi River.” Having already eaten, i ordered a few buckets of ice, some set-ups and a couple six packs of beer for the table. the Klondyke sells beer only but you can bring your own liquor in a brown paper bag. it had been a long day, but it was getting right, tonight! locals filtered in as the conviviality and friendliness drifted from table to table, unlike a lot of honky tonks i’ve frequented. the Klondyke trading Post is a class place and the clientele wants to know about you, where you are from and what you are doing in Vicksburg. they are used to visitors from all over the country and the world, coming in to see the Vicksburg Military Park, visit the Biedenharn Candy Company where Coca Cola was first bottled, to see some of

the antebellum homes and go through the Jesse Brent River Museum. the Klondyke opens up at 5 a.m. for breakfast, which is greatly appreciated by those who work in and around the Vicksburg harbor with its river-borne industries and the newly renovated Vicksburg Forrest Products Company. lunchtime offers a hot table buffet of fried chicken, creamy Creole catfish, fried shrimp and crawfish etouffee along with all kinds of vegetables including turnip greens, onion rings and sumptuous fried green tomatoes! Hamburgers, cheeseburgers and hamburger steak compliment the lunch menu. the nighttime menu includes splendid steaks, po-boys, country fried steak and hamburgers. the Klondyke is loaded with Southern Comfort Food and once inside, you will not go away hungry. the Klondyke trading Post, more than just a “Hole in the Wall”, but a jam up good place to fill your belly with delicious Southern Comfort Food, visit with friends and dance your blues away once the sun goes down. DM Delta Magazine 2021

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Our neighborhood o ers more than you can do in just one weekend, so plan to stay awhile! Enjoy Mystic Creek Golf Club – named by Golfweek as the #1 course in Arkansas – and explore one of the best downtowns in America. The Murphy Arts District, charming boutiques, and eateries are all within walking distance around our historic downtown square, and there is ample lodging, including the new Haywood Hotel. Want to know more?

Download our quarterly visitor’s guide at Eldoradoinsider.com or call for your free copy.

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FELSENTHAL NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

870.863.6113 GOELDORADO.COM

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THE THOMPSON HOUSE

FOR SALE

$450,000 Reduced To $395,000!

ANTIQUE BOTTLE & COLLECTIBLES SHOW AND SALE

Take High Street Exit 96B off of I-55 North go west and then into Fair Grounds

Bed & Breakfast and Event Center Leland, Mississippi Call 662-820-7829 For More Information

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make it a long weekend

#VisitMSResponsibly For travel information on visiting Oxford and Mississippi safely, scan the QR code: 1013 Jackson Ave. East | Oxford, MS | 800.758.9177 | visitoxfordms.com

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HOME

g n i v a S

GEORGIANNA ThE sTunning REsToRaTion of This TREasuRED anTEBElluM hoME in ThE souTh DElTa

BY ALAN HUFFMAN

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MS MCCARTHY PHOTOGRAPHY

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“Typically, when someone takes on a building like this, it’s a rehabilitation. You’re preserving it and adapting it. A restoration is different. It means doing your best to put a building back to its original use and form. That’s what Franc did with Georgianna.

And to do that, he brought in the A-team.”

– Lolly Rash, Mississippi Heritage Trust executive director

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IN THE WINTER OF 2017, the Mississippi Heritage Trust published what could easily have been an obituary for the old Sharkey County house known as Georgianna. Built on the banks of Deer Creek in the 1850s, the house suffered from vandalism, storm damage, and natural deterioration over the decades. All that really remained was a massive, intriguing husk, seemingly verging toward collapse.

When the plantation manager, who was living in the house evacuated during the 1927 flood, scores of sharecroppers took refuge in it’s upper floors.

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yet the Weissinger family, which had owned georgianna for more than a century, wasn’t ready to give up, and, in a last-ditch effort, offered to donate the structure and surrounding site to anyone who would undertake a restoration. it was a long shot, at best. What sort of person would sink a small fortune into an isolated, derelict, twoand-a-half story house “out from Cary?”

By then, i’d been keeping tabs on georgianna for decades, having come upon the house during a weekend outing in the 1990s. each time i approached on the Cary-Blanton Road, i wondered if it would still be there. i wrote an article, at the time, in hopes someone would step forward to take up the Weissingers on their offer and save georgianna. though the family had done some strategic stabilization over the years, there were fault lines in the ground floor walls that threatened to reduce the entire structure to a pile of lumber, tin, and bricks. as things were going, it looked like the house would end up like all of the other historic structures along the road, which had literally fallen by the wayside. a sister house, lochwood plantation, which faced

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It all began with months of detailed research and meticulous restoration plans.

Stunning before and after views from the same angle.

It was determined that the entire upper portion of the house needed to be lifted from its ground floor on massive steel beams so a new foundation could be poured, and the lower brickwork could be completely rebuilt. Most of the fragile original bricks were replaced by new bricks or others retrieved from the chimneys and burned ruins of Mount Holly Plantation on Lake Washington.

the Mississippi River about five miles to the west and was built by the same antebellum cotton planter, was likewise gone, destroyed by a tornado in 1971. georgianna and its two vacant former slave dwellings were all that was left. Finding someone to restore the house fit the mission of the Mississippi Heritage trust, said its director, lolly Rash. “georgianna was one of the few buildings of this architectural integrity and age left in the Delta,” she said. “and it was still hanging on. Plus, it had a tremendous story to tell.” at the time, Charles Weissinger said that no one in his family had the means to undertake a full restoration but that they valued the house, which was why they were willing to part with it. “My father had a long, deep, and abiding love for these old structures,” he said. “He felt it was his duty to be a steward.” among many stopgap measures, the family had repaired the roof, patched cracks in the foundation as best they could, and nailed tin over gaping window openings to buy some time. the offer to donate the house was a final gesture of hope. anyone with experience restoring and maintaining historic buildings knows that “free” is a relative term, but georgianna is unlike many plantations in that it was a rustic, absentee-owned plantation house. it was a secondary investment, and its original owners never intended to live in the house year-round, which explains why it was plain and unadorned. it was a grander expression of the simple building style of its original twenty-six slave dwellings, all built of locally fired bricks and milled cypress logs.

When the article ran in the trust’s elevation magazine, Francis

The new outbuildings are visible from the upper gallery.

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Interior designers Stephen Bengel and Bryan Houston of West Point filled rooms once roamed by sheep, snakes, and rats, with antiques, accoutrement, and bric-a-brac, giving them the feel of a tasteful hunting lodge. They created an unpretentious atmosphere, in keeping with Georgianna’s history and intended use.

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The tasteful modern kitchen is one of the few necessary concessions made for modern use.

Clark lee, of Brandon, read it with great interest. lee is an avid lover of history and architecture, and has a deep interest in the preservation and restoration of endangered historic structures. He had long been fascinated by David Hunt, who had originally owned the plantation and gave it to his son george and daughter-in-law anna as a wedding gift in 1857. the elder Hunt was among the five wealthiest cotton planters in the United States before the Civil War. lee had been exploring the idea of restoring an antebellum plantation house for a while and had looked into saving a similarly endangered one, Prospect Hill, in Jefferson County, as well as another, known as Saragossa, in natchez. But by the winter of 2017, 80 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

he was still on the search. as it turned out, he was precisely the kind of person who would sink a small fortune into an isolated, derelict, two-and-a-half story house out from Cary. lee got in touch with Charles Weissinger, then hired architects to survey the house to determine what would be involved in restoring it. So began a preservation odyssey that stretched into more than two years, starting with lengthy negotiations over the transfer of the title, followed by months of painstaking research, many unexpected hitches, and inevitable cost overruns, which lee said were ultimately worth the effort.

Rash describes the completed project, which was awarded the

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The second floor bedrooms, kitchen, and the living room all open onto the main hall, which is flanked on each end by the upper galleries.

trust’s biannual Heritage award, as “a thrilling, meticulous restoration.” typically, she said, “When someone takes on a building like this, it’s a rehabilitation. you’re preserving it and adapting it. a restoration is different. it means doing your best to put a building back to its original use and form. that’s what Franc did with georgianna. and to do that, he brought in the a-team.” lee’s restoration, which was completed in May 2020, was done by the book, down to minute details such as replicating the original exterior whitewash, the original mortar mix, and the unexpectedly vibrant original paint colors of the trim, as well as rebuilding the ground floor and chimneys, installing a period-correct wood-shake roof, and

even recreating the elaborate water-capture system that replenishes a huge original underground cistern. “i guess my appreciation for history is what prompted me to be so accurate,” lee said during a visit to the finished house, which now looks as it did when it was brand new, surrounded by freshly installed landscaping. “it’s not just about fixing up an old house to use,” he said. “it’s about creating something that memorializes history and teaches us. i wanted something that educated people about the past.” the first task of the project was to stabilize the two-foot-thick brick ground floor walls, parts of which had collapsed during high winds, and then to assess the structure’s overall integrity. to guide the project, lee hired architect Briar Jones of Starkville, the late Michael Fazio as architectural historian, and Raleigh, north Carolina-based george Fore as research conservator. the number of people involved grew from there. throughout its history, georgianna had been a key landmark for a diverse cast of characters, and today, it would once again be easily recognizable to them. in addition to the Hunts, those characters included nearly 150 enslaved workers; Union navy Rear admiral Delta Magazine 2021

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The interior walls, made with locally milled Cypress logs, remained intact over the years. Only the batten boards needed to be replaced before being white washed using the original formula.

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David Porter; plantation overseer g.W. Johnson, who was murdered in front of the house during a Reconstruction-era uprising; a freed slave named David Cameron who found refuge inside from a lynch mob; and a multitude of sharecroppers who rode out the infamous 1927 Mississippi River flood on its upper stories. georgianna is an early house by the standards of the Delta, which, aside from scattered plantations on low ridges bordering navigable waterways, was largely settled in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. it faces Deer Creek, the main transportation link in the era before good roads, and is elevated above periodic inundations by its brick ground floor. the main floor is constructed of dovetailed cypress logs, while the half-story above is framed; both afford expansive views of what was originally a 2,600-acre plantation. lee was dubious about replicating some of the historic details,

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The painting by Kate Freeman Clark that hangs in Lee’s bedroom has special significance.The artist is the daughter of Cary Clark for whom the town of Cary was named.

Lee was intent on historical accuracy—but with a few asterisks— including electricity and plumbing, central air and heat, and ceiling fans on the galleries. He also installed large TV monitors over each fireplace mantle.

such as the vibrant blue-green color scheme of its external trim and shutters (which, curiously, appear to have originally been installed only on six windows), but he was intent on historical accuracy, with a few asterisks. necessary additions included electricity and plumbing, central air and heat, and ceiling fans on the galleries. He also installed large tV monitors over each fireplace mantle, which he plans to have framed and sheathed in two-way mirrors to make them less intrusive yet still functional as video screens, and built two new outbuildings. He tried his best to conceal the HVaC infrastructure through strategic landscaping and eschewed physical light switches, instead using a phone app to turn them on and off.

On the day of our visit, in late May, i told lee that having last seen georgianna when it was near ruin, coming upon it now felt a bit surreal, as if it had been magically transformed overnight. yet for

him, the process was long, complex, and anything but magical. among the many challenges was lifting the entire house from its ground floor on massive steel beams so that the brickwork could be completely rebuilt. another was finding that most of the original bricks were unusable because they were so fragile; most were replaced by new bricks and others retrieved from the chimneys of the burned ruins of Mount Holly Plantation on lake Washington.

When the restoration was complete, lee hired interior designers Stephen Bengel and Bryan Houston of West Point to give its rooms the feel of a refined hunting lodge. the antiques, accoutrement, and bric-a-brac now fill rooms once roamed by sheep, snakes, and rats, creating a top-drawer yet otherwise unpretentious atmosphere, in keeping with georgianna’s history and intended use. Old cypress floors are stained a dark hue to obscure replacement boards in areas that had suffered rot, and in the main hall hangs a framed, photographic copy of a portrait of David Hunt, georgiana’s decorative centerpiece. as lee and i toured the house, Charles Weissinger drove up, having been summoned for the occasion. it was his first time to see the restored house, and after climbing the wide, reconstructed front steps, he told lee, in obvious understatement, “i like what you’ve done here.” He and lee then launched into a long discussion about David Hunt and the history of the house. according to historical records, the property on which Delta Magazine 2021

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The main hall is tastefully arranged with antiques and additional seating, a station for the guest book, and there hangs a framed, photographic copy of a portrait of David Hunt.

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Before and after of the same upper floor space now used as an extra bedroom.

georgianna stands was part of an 1835 land grant to Joseph Dunbar and Samuel Mason, who then sold it to Hunt, a natchez area planter who acquired it for his expanding cotton dynasty. Hunt, nicknamed “King David” due to his wealth and extensive holdings, was a new Jersey native who owned multiple plantations on both sides of the river between greenville and natchez. He was also a member of a group known as the american Colonization Society, which was founded to “repatriate” freed slaves before the Civil War to what is today the West african nation of liberia, including to a colony known as Mississippi in africa. Hunt’s involvement in the colonization society puts georgianna in the same historical context

as the still-endangered Prospect Hill, whose original owner arranged for the largest group of slaves to immigrate to Mississippi in africa (Prospect Hill is still in limbo, on the Mississippi Heritage trust’s 10 Most endangered Historic Places list).

Weissinger said it’s his understanding that when george and anna Hunt visited their Delta holdings, they usually stayed at lochwood and that georgianna was occupied by the plantation overseer. lochwood was built using the same template—a brick ground floor surmounted by a main floor of milled logs with a frame half-story above. “i have the impression that when they built georgianna and lochwood, they’d figured out a way to do cookieDelta Magazine 2021

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Recreating the water collection system was a crowning achievement of the project. The water ran off the roof through pipes, (the copper pipes shown) and passed through boxes that contained charcoal, thus filtering the water. It was then funneled through troughs into the cistern—thus supplying the inhabitants with charcoal-filtered water.

Years of refuse was removed from the cistern before the top was completely reconstructed. However, the underground walls of the cistern had remained impervious to water ingress and were still functional.

cutter plantations,” lee said. the Hunts’ permanent home was nowvanished Huntley plantation, downriver in Jefferson County. at least two of David Hunt’s former slaves were later interviewed and recorded for the Depression-era Works Progress administration’s slave narratives project and recalled what were, not surprisingly, sometimes very harsh experiences for workers on his plantations. according to the 1860 agricultural census, 147 slaves lived on georgianna, and during the Civil War, in april 1863, a flotilla of five ironclad gunboats, three troop transports, and two tugboats under U.S. Rear admiral David Porter tied up at its landing. notably, george Hunt died in September 1863, at age thirty-five, though Weissinger said he does not know the cause of his death. accounts vary about another death at georgianna, of its plantation overseer, g.W. Johnson, who some say was killed during the Union occupation, though others allege he was murdered after the war.

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Weissinger said he was told the overseer’s death came “at the hands of yankees,” which he interpreted to mean some of Porter’s men, but said he was also told that Johnson was killed in a shootout with U.S. Colored troops near Blanton, during a period of violent white pushback against federally enforced black rule. He said a group of white men had formed a militia and the freedmen who occupied georgianna had requested backup from the U.S. Colored troops stationed in Vicksburg. according to one account, by war veteran Col. W.D. Brown, there was a series of attacks on white landowners and overseers along Deer Creek by U.S. Colored troops in august 1863. the raiders allegedly committed several murders downstream, and, “Continuing northward they next came to what is known as georgiana plantation, then the property of Mr. george F. Short [actually george F. Hunt]. there they shot to death Mr. Johnson, the overseer

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Original art is displayed throughout the house.

New fencing borders the property.

Close-up of the copper pipes that funnel water from the roof into the cistern.

A prized painting by Kate Freeman Clark.

Lee was dubious about replicating some of the historic details, such as the vibrant blue-green color scheme of its external trim and shutters.

A trio of antique brass lanterns hang in the kitchen.

A collection of antique forged cooking utensils hangs in the kitchen.

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The new outbuildings include a large den, indoor and outdoor kitchens and a locker room to store hunting gear, separating the hunting-related activities to from the main house.

of the plantation.” (the spelling of georgianna varies over time; lee chose its current spelling as a more direct homage to george and anna.) the transcripts of congressional hearings into Mississippi’s Reconstruction-era elections include testimony about a second series of murders by vigilantes, as well as race riots, threats of attacks on plantations and towns, and white revenge killings, which prompted residents along Deer Creek to hold a biracial convention “for the purpose of quieting the public feeling on the part of the whites and blacks.” among the signatories to the post-war convention was David Hunt, the namesake grandson of georgianna’s original owner, as well as several formerly enslaved plantation workers. included in the congressional record is the testimony of a georgianna sharecropper, David Cameron, who said that after 88 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

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The main room is filled with rustic antiques, comfortable seating, a modern kitchen, and original lithographs and artwork by Mississippi artist Bill Dunlap.

hearing that white vigilantes would be moving through from nearby Rolling Fork, he went to the house late one night seeking protection.

Cameron recalled that “Mr. Hunt came out with his slippers on,” and after hearing his concerns, invited him inside to stay the night.

Hunt reportedly told Cameron that he could do nothing to help workers who had been involved in racially motivated crimes, and, in fact, a group of white men rounded up several black men from the former slave quarters and killed two of them. at the time, according to another sharecropper’s testimony, about one hundred black residents lived and worked on georgianna, with David Hunt the lone white resident. the Hunt family held on to georgianna through the economic 90 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

crash that followed the Civil War but in 1912 sold it to two local business partners, one of whom handed it down through the Weissinger family line. By 1927, the plantation manager, who was living in the main house, evacuated from the flood, enabling scores of sharecroppers to find refuge in its upper floors. in the 1940s, when rural electrification came, Weissinger’s grandfather decided that wiring georgianna would be an insurmountable task, so he had two of the slave dwellings moved together to create a dogtrot in which the farm manager lived until that structure burned. “My daddy cried when that house burned,” Weissinger said. Until lee took ownership, no one had lived in georgianna since about 1950, he said. lee said it was important to preserve the house both as an

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Time on the front porch is spent around the fire and enjoying meals prepared in the outdoor kitchen.

architectural treasure and as a repository of a long and conflicted history, though it will not be used for a museum or open for public tours. the point, he said, was to save it. it will now be leased to a hunting club in which lee is a member, though he does not personally hunt. the new outbuildings include a large den and a locker room to separate hunting-related activities from the main house. the list of people involved in georgianna’s restoration “is virtually endless,” lee said. it includes Mid State Construction, woodworkers Don Reihle, Kevin yoder, and tim Daniels, and crews assembled by local resident Frank Stewart, whose family owns the site of lochwood. the Mississippi Department of archives and History also advised on the work to ensure its eligibility for the

national Register of Historic Places, which grants tax incentives for costs associated with restoring listed historic structures for commercial use. lee said he is particularly grateful to Charles Weissinger and his family’s corporation, the Powers Company, for donating the house, and to the Mississippi Heritage trust for alerting him to its availability.

Regarding the latter, Rash observed, “i’m proud of the fact that we brought it to Franc’s attention and that georgianna found the right person at the right time.” the restoration was a remarkable success story, she said, adding that when the house seemed destined to be lost, “Franc stepped forward to be the steward of this historic place for the next chapter of its history.”DM Delta Magazine 2021

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FOOD

“A cookbook is only as good as its poorest recipe.”

“The only real stumbling block is fear of failure. In cooking you’ve got to have a what-thehell attitude.”

“Always start out wit h a larger pot than what you think you need.”

GREG CAMPBELL

– Julia Child

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FAVORITE

COOKBOOKS “ No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present, the wisdom of cookbook writers.”

– the late novelist and food-writer Laurie Colwin

T

hat sentiment has never been more true than when applied to those favorite,

decades old, often handed-down cookbooks we turn to over and over again. you know the ones—they’re on your shelf next to the shiny new beauties (no disrespect to new cookbooks) that are regularly passed over when we need dinnertime inspiration. invariably, you’ll choose that stained, dog-eared compilation that is packed with favorite recipes you’ve made for years. and there is always the bonus of notes you’ve scratched in the margins over the years, or better yet, tips or advice in your mother or grandmother’s handwriting.

We asked our readers to send us photos of their favorite dishes from their favorite cookbooks—and, no surprise—Delta Magazine readers love to cook! We had a great time going through photos and recipes from cookbooks— old and new— which we now bring to you. true to form many had wonderful notes and tips written on the stained, well-used pages from years and generations past, proving Colwin was right—”no one who cooks, cooks alone.”

BY CINDY COOPWOOD

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RASPBERRY WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING 5 4 1 ¾ 2 1½ ½ ¼ 1

ounces white chocolate egg yolks egg cup sugar teaspoons vanilla extract cups heavy whipping cream cup milk teaspoon salt large loaf of sourdough bread (crust cut off) cut into 1-inch cubes, approximately 5 cups of cubes 2 cups frozen raspberries, thawed (reserve juice)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt white chocolate in a double boiler. in another double boiler over moderate heat, combine eggs, sugar, vanilla, whipping cream, milk, and salt and stir well to prevent eggs from scrambling. When the cream mixture is warm, add melted chocolate and stir well. Fold bread cubes into custard mixture. let it sit for 5 minutes and then mix on low speed in an electric mixer using the paddle attachment (or mix with your hands, squishing the bread mixture between your fingers until it is completely incorporated and all of the bread has been broken up—wear rubber gloves if the mixture is too hot).

Remove the paddle attachment and, using a rubber spatula, gently fold the thawed raspberries into the bread pudding mixture. Pour into a buttered 2.2-quart Pyrex baking dish and cover with parchment paper. Place the baking dish in a large roasting pan

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and fill the pan with 2 inches of hot water. Bake for 45 minutes.

Remove paper and cook an additional 15 minutes to brown the top. Raspberry White Chocolate Bread Pudding can be held in the refrigerator for 2 or 3 days. When cooled completely, scoop out individual portions (or use a cookie cutter for unique and interesting shapes—hearts for Valentine’s Day, etc.) and heat to just warm in a microwave. top with the warmed sauce.

RASPBERRY WHITE CHOCOLATE SAUCE 8 ¼ 2 2

ounces white chocolate cup heavy whipping cream, warmed tablespoons raspberry juice tablespoons Framboise liquor

Melt white chocolate in a double boiler. add heavy cream, raspberry juice, and Framboise and blend thoroughly. this sauce will hold in the refrigerator and can be reheated in the microwave until just warm.

Amy Patterson, Mobile, Alabama (originally from Vicksburg) Southern Seasons by Robert St. John and Wyatt Waters

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“I make this cake for my husband Jason’s birthday and it takes the better part of a day to construct!”

COCONUT PECAN CAKE For the cake: 1 ¾ 2 2¼ 1 ¾ 12 ¼ 4 1 1

cup firmly packed sweetened shredded coconut cup pecan halves, toasted cups sugar cups all-purpose flour tablespoon baking powder tablespoon salt tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, softened cup cream of coconut (such as Coco Lopez) large eggs teaspoon coconut extract cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut milk

For the filling: 2 ¾ 4 1 1 1

large yolks, lightly beaten cup sweetened condensed milk tablespoons unsalted butter tablespoon cream of coconut cup sweetened shredded coconut cup simple syrup

For the cicing: 1 ¼ 1 2

cup heavy cream cup confectioners’ sugar teaspoon coconut extract cups sweetened coconut, toasted

to make the cake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. grease two 9-inch round size cake pans and line the bottom of each with a circle of parchment paper. grease the parchment paper, then dust with flour, tapping out any excess. Set the pans aside.

Finely grind the coconut in a food processor, then transfer it to a bowl. add the pecans to the processor, along with 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and finely grind them. Set aside. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt into a large bowl. Stir in the ground coconut and pecans, set aside. in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a larger bow and a handheld mixer), beat the butter, cream of coconut, and the remaining 1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar on high speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition, then beat in the coconut extract. add the flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with the coconut milk, starting and ending with flour mixture.

Divide the batter between the prepared pans and smooth the top of each with a spatula. Bake until the cakes are golden and a tester comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. let the cakes cool in the pan on a rack for 30 minutes. Run a knife around the edge of each cake, invert onto a wire rack, and remove the parchment. let cool completely.

While the cakes are cooling, prepare the filling. Place the egg yolks in a small heatproof bowl. Combine the condensed milk, butter, and cream of coconut in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until hot.

Whisk one-third of the hot milk mixture into the egg yolks. transfer the egg mixture to the saucepan of milk and whisk constantly over medium-low heat until the consistency of pudding, about 4 minutes. Do not allow the custard to become too thick, or it will be difficult to spread on the cake. transfer the custard to a bowl and stir in the shredded coconut. let cool completely. (the filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days; let it sit at room temperature until it is soft enough to spread before assembling the cake.) to assemble the cake, cut each cake horizontally in half. Build the layer cake in a cake pan: Place one layer in the bottom of a 9inch cake pan. Moisten the top with some of the simple syrup.

Spread ½ cup of the coconut filling in a thin, even layer with an offset spatula. Repeat to make 2 more layers of cake and filling, then place the last layer on top. Refrigerate the cake for about 1 hour. to unmold, run a spatula around the edges of the chilled cake, invert a cake plate over the top, and flip the cake over onto the plate. to make the icing, whip the cream with the confectioners’ sugar and coconut extract until stiff peaks form. Spread the whipped cream on the top and sides of the cake and sprinkle with the toasted coconut. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Note: To toast coconut, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Spread out the coconut on a baking sheet and toast in the oven, shaking the pan every 5 minutes or so, until aromatic and golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes.

Let cool completely.

Michie Cotton, Cleveland, Mississippi Frank Stitt’s Bottega Favorita: A Southern Chef’s Love Affair with Italian Food Delta Magazine 2021

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“I always keep these ingredients on hand because it’s so easy to throw together” HOT CHICKEN SALAD 2 2 1½ 1½ ¼ 2 ¾ ½ 1

cups croutons, toasted cups diced cooked chicken cups chopped celery cups grated sharp cheese cup slivered almonds, toasted tablespoons minced onion cup mayonnaise teaspoon salt tablespoon lemon juice

Combine half of the croutons with all the remaining ingredients. turn into baking dish and cover with remaining croutons. Bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes. May be prepared ahead, but if so, do not put in croutons until baking time.

GREG CAMPBELL

Sandra Goff, Ridgeland, Mississippi Southern Sideboards, the Junior league of Jackson, Mississippi

NOODLES MARMADUKE ¼ 2 1 3 1 1 3 1 ¼

cup sliced onion tablespoons butter pound ground beef tablespoons sherry wine (10½ ounce) can beef consommé (6 ounce) can mushrooms, stems and pieces, and juice tablespoons lemon juice teaspoon salt teaspoon pepper dash garlic salt ¼ pound medium noodles 1 cup sour cream chopped parsley

Sauté onion in butter. add meat and brown. Stir in sherry, consommé, mushrooms and juice, lemon juice, salt, pepper and garlic salt. Simmer uncovered for 15 minutes. Stir in uncooked noodles and cook for 10 minutes or until noodles are tender. Stir in sour cream. top with parsley to serve. Serves 6. if prepared in advance, it may be stored in Pyrex casseroles and heated at 325 degrees until hot. it may also be frozen, thawed and reheated.

Lucy Baird, Birmingham, Alabama Southern Sideboards, the Junior league of Jackson, Mississippi 98 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

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“When the holiday season rolls around, my family always asks me to make Nut Cake from the Inverness Cookbook. It’s not overly sweet so we enjoy it for breakfast.”

NUT CAKE

BROWN SUGAR CONFECTION COOKIES 2 2 2 ¼ 2

egg whites cups brown sugar tablespoons flour teaspoon salt cups chopped pecans or walnuts

Beat egg whites to a stiff froth. Continue beating and adding sugar gradually. When all sugar has been incorporated, sift the flour and salt over egg white mixture and fold in completely. Fold in nuts. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased cookie sheet at least 2 inches apart. Bake in 325 degree oven about 15 minutes. Makes 4 dozen cookies.

2 ¾ 6 5 1 1½ ½ 2 1 1 1 1

cups sugar cups butter eggs cups flour teaspoon soda pounds raisins cups molasses teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon nutmeg teaspoon cloves wine glass of wine pound pecans, chopped

Cream sugar and butter and add eggs. Sift flour with spices and add. add molasses and dissolve soda in 2 tablespoons warm water and add to cake. Save ½ cup of flour out and mix with pecans and raisins, and add last to cake.

Batter will be very stiff. Bake in stem pan that has been lined with wax paper in slow oven about 3 hours.

Deborah McLeod, Austin, Texas (originally from Isola) The Inverness Cookbook

Camden Batte, Oxford, Mississippi (originally from Inverness) Southern Sideboards, the Junior league of Jackson, Mississippi

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“We enjoy these pecans all by themselves, use them in salads and they’re great to give as gifts!”

SPICED PECANS

CRACK CRACKERS ⅓ 1 1 1 2

cup olive oil (1-ounce) package Ranch dressing mix tablespoon dried dill tablespoon garlic powder (16-ounce) packages bite-size Cheddar cheese crackers (such as Cheez-It)

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Whisk together the first 4 ingredients. Drizzle over crackers in a large bowl. toss to coat. Divide between 2 large rimmed baking sheets and spread in an even layer. Bake 30 minutes or until lightly toasted, stirring every 10 minutes. Cool on pans 30 minutes. Store in large ziplock plastic bags on in airtight containers.

Amy Callahan, Brandon, Mississippi What Can I Bring? by elizabeth Heiskel

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1 1 1 1 1 1

egg white tablespoon water pound pecan halves (4 cups) cup sugar teaspoon salt teaspoon cinnamon

Beat egg white and water until frothy.

Fold in pecans. Mix cinnamon, sugar, and salt in plastic bag. add pecans and shake until coated. Bake on cookie sheet at 300 degrees for 30 minutes, stirring 3 or 4 times.

Pour on wax paper and separate while warm.

Lisa Vickers, Hattiesburg, Mississippi Easy Hospitality by Patti Roper

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“My Grandmother, Hazel Poe made “Sweet Potato Pone” for every Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas gathering. You can see the many years of love on the pages of her cookbook!”

SWEET POTATO PONE 1 1 1 1 ¼

cup sugar teaspoon salt stick or less butter egg teaspoon cinnamon Dash nutmeg (fresh ground is best) 2 cups raw grated sweet potato Grated rind of 1 orange Juice of ½ an orange

Melt butter over slow fire. Mix everything, adding sweet potato last. (Sweet potatoes tend to turn dark when grated, so blend immediately.) Bake in casserole 325 degrees for 55 minutes. good hot or cold.

Nathan Hicks-Poe, Winter Garden, Florida (originally from Inverness) Gourmet of the Delta

BAKED ONIONS Medium white onions, 1 per person Salt Pepper Soy Sauce Butter

Remove the outer shell from onions and place each on a foil square. Core the onions two-thirds deep. Salt and pepper generously. Pour soy sauce over the onions and top with butter. Wrap well in foil and bake in a 350 to 375 degree oven for 1 hour or until tender. the onions make their own sauce and take the place of a baked potato.

Paige Hayes, Clarksdale, Mississippi The Cotton Country Collection

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edit ors’s pick

ONION SOUP AU GRATIN 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 large onions, halved and thinly sliced ¼ cup sugar Salt, to taste ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 6 cups homemade beef stock or canned broth 2 tablespoons ruby port 4 large thick slices French bread, toasted 1 cup grated Gruyere cheese

Melt the butter in a soup pot. add the onions and wilt over medium-low heat, covered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle sugar over the onions, toss, and cook, uncovered, until caramelized, 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. add 3 cups on the stock and simmer, uncovered, over medium heat for 15 minutes. then add the remaining 3 cups stock and the port; cook until the broth is rich in taste, another 30 to 40 minutes.

Preheat the broiler, or the oven to 350 degrees. Divide the soup among four ovenproof bowls. top each with a slice of toasted French bread, and sprinkle the cheese evenly on top.

Place under the broiler until the cheese melts, or bake until the cheese has melted and the soup is bubbly.

Notes: I reduce sugar to 1 tablespoon. Add about ½ cup red wine if you don’t have port.

Instead of toasting bread—spread with butter and saute’ in skillet until brown.

Cindy Coopwood, Cleveland, Mississippi

The New Basics Cookbook by Julie Rosso and Sheila lukins 102 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

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CRUNCHY ROMAINE TOSS 1 cup walnuts, chopped 1 pkg Ramen Noodles, uncooked, broken up (discard flavor packet) 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 bunch broccoli, coarsely chopped 1 head romaine lettuce, washed, broken into pieces 4 green onions, chopped 1 cup Sweet and Sour Dressing

Brown walnuts and noodles in butter, cool on paper towels. Combine noodles and walnuts with broccoli, romaine, and onions.

Pour Sweet and Sour Dressing over and toss to coat well.

SWEET AND SOUR DRESSING 1 1 ½ 3

cup vegetable oil cup sugar cup wine vinegar teaspoons soy sauce Salt and pepper to taste

Blend all ingredients.

Come On In! Recipes from the Junior League of Jackson, Mississippi

GREG CAMPBELL

Cindy Coopwood, Cleveland, Mississippi

“Around the time I got married, Come On In had just come out—every new bride had it on her shelf. Crunchy Romaine Toss was the salad my friends and I made all the time—and of course we served it in our Gail Pittman pottery!”

– CINDY COOPWOOD, EDITOR

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ATHLETICS

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HISTORY

Delta Aces and

Flying Wonders There are a lot of noted pilots from Mississippi and especially the Delta, but a few stand out above all others

BY HANK BURDINE

y introduction to the zaniness of Delta pilots came at the hands of one of the best of the best, Joe Call, J-3 Cub flying wizard, top flight

M

instructor, and ag pilot extraordinaire, whose runway was a pecan orchard, the limbs having been trimmed up high enough for him to land and take off underneath the producing tops of the trees, right off of Old leland Road in greenville. My mama had asked Mr. Call to fly me over to ashbrook island in the middle of the Mississippi River in lieu of riding upriver in a fishing boat. Once landed and disembarked on a small strip of sand at the base of an abandoned levee, i still had a three-mile walk through the woods to camp—in the dark! But i got to know Mr. Call, and two years later i was slalom skiing at fifty-five miles per hour in front of five thousand people at the 1965 Fourth of July greenville Ski Club extravaganza on lake Ferguson behind a Magnolia Cat racing boat powered by twin Mercury engines and piloted by cigar-chomping, river-racing expert Shot Johnson. i almost caught the long ski rope trailing behind Joe Call’s J-3 Cub on the second pass. Knowing he was to make only two passes, i was hunkered down and holding on for the 112 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

JOHN WEATHERSBY COLLECTION

OF MISSISSIPPI

embarrassing ride to the marina in front of all those people when i felt something on my back. Joe Call had looped around and laid that weighted rope right on my shoulder. Stunned that he even came back for a third pass, i reached but missed grabbing it to the chagrin of all the onlookers and especially myself!

My next introduction to flight came on top of the levee behind a Chevrolet van known as the Command Van and owned by Delta truck-selling Chevrolet dealer trader John Weathersby from indianola. Strapped into an old green army parachute with slits cut in one side of the top for lift, and three or four running steps behind the moving van heading into the wind—you were airborne 100’ above the top of the levee. What a sight to behold!!!

One Sunday afternoon in 1973 we were flying the parachute around Miller Bend on a glorious blue-sky day with a new friend from Camden, Maine, liz Hall, who was in town visiting her uncle, Big Hodding Carter. liz had just returned from the albuquerque international Balloon Fiesta in new Mexico. She told John, an accomplished pilot holding a commercial rating, about the hot air balloons. trader John saw the potential for advertising, and the fun, in having a balloon. the next day he was in touch with Raven

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TOM SIMMONS COLLECTION

INTERNATIONAL NEWS PHOTO

Trader John Weathersby pre-inflating his hot air balloon “Good Ship Faith” prior to turning on the master twin butane burners to complete inflating of the balloon in preparation for flight.

Stunt pilot extraordinaire Tom Simmons prepares to take off for a flight in his bi-wing plane for an air show in Indianola.

Colonel John Robinson aboard the Europa, a North German Llyod Lines ship upon his return to America from Ethopia before WWII. Delta Magazine 2021

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Author Hank Burdine with his nephew Hal Burdine, discussing the ascension of Good Ship Faith and the christening of the newly acquired Alden Farm in 1992. Champagne was always shared upon landing of any balloon flight, but in this instance, the cork was popped and a christening douse was made over the cotton fields, woods and sloughs of Alden Farm.

Balloons and within the week was the Southeastern dealer for Raven Balloons, having never even seen one, much less been in one. and then, my friends, the fun did begin!

John bought a balloon and hired balloon instructor Bill Munday to come teach him to fly his balloon and to certify him. Shortly thereafter he convinced Munday to quit his job and go into business with him, using the balloon as a promotional tool for events, sales, grand openings, and various other deals. Soon, the Good Ship Faith was seen slowly floating over fields, car dealerships, and shopping centers all over the South.

One year trader John co-sponsored a convention of the Mississippi agricultural Pilots association on the gulf Coast, headquartered at one of Biloxi’s finest establishments, the Broadwater Beach Hotel. When you have a gathering of some of the wildest, boldest, fun-loving, yet, safest pilots in the country, the parties begin. John brought his balloon and tethered it to a fire hydrant in Mrs. Brown’s, the owner of the Broadwater, parking lot 114 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

TOM SIMMONS COLLECTION

HANK BURDINE COLLECTION

Pilots Tom Simmons and Trader John Weathersby discussing flight tactics and events at one of many air shows they both coordinated and put on in the Delta.

Pilot Tom Simmons upon his return to the Mississippi Gulf coast after one of his many fun flights to the Delta in his custom made GM1 biplane.

right on Highway 90 with a huge banner proclaiming, “ag Pilots do it lower and Slower.” the group was already in a little trouble after John’s friend from gulfport, the dapper tom Simmons, military ace and stunt pilot, showed up and led a gorilla on a rope through the crowds scaring the daylights out of guests as he jerked on the rope around the gorilla’s neck loudly exclaiming, “Pongo, COMe!” One startled lady backed up so fast she actually fell into the pool as the gorilla cavorted about. Of course, it was trader John dressed up in the authentic looking gorilla outfit!

Mrs. Brown’s disapproval rating also came from the sky as one of the Delta ag pilots, instead of landing at the gulfport-Biloxi airport, decided to show off and land his brand-new bright yellow 450 horsepower grumman ag Cat biplane, which needed only 650 feet of landing space, on the green area along the breakwater behind her Broadwater Marina where she had 118 covered yacht slips (this would allow the pilot a golfcart ride to the hotel instead of having to hire a taxi!). She was not amused, yet everyone else was, and once the plane was flown away after the convention was over, Mrs. Brown had the entire green space planted in palm trees. She was not to have “some fool ag pilot” land on her grass again! it was not long before others learned about the hot air balloon craze, and festivals sprang up all over the Delta, including indianola, greenwood, and greenville. We even put together a private four

assigned as a co-pilot on a balloon and within a short time from flying twenty-five thousand miles per hour to reach the moon, he was skimming over the cotton fields of the Delta at five miles per hour. Simmons later would chuckle as he said, “i’ve brought a man from the moon to a balloon!”

One story tom Simmons often told was of a young black man from gulfport, Mississippi, who became enthralled with airplanes and flying at a very early age. His heart would race at the sound of an airplane overhead. He vowed to one day become a pilot. John C. Robinson went off to tuskegee normal and industrial institute in tuskegee, alabama, and graduated in the top of his class majoring in automotive mechanics in 1924. Realizing he could not reach his full potential in Mississippi at the time, he moved to Detroit to work as a mechanic in an auto repair shop, eventually moving to Chicago Colonel John Robinson with his Beechcraft B17R Staggerwing in and opening his own garage and repair shop. not being able to gain which he flew Emperor Haile Salassie between Addis Ababa and his front lines prior to and during the invasion of Ethopia. attendance in the Curtiss-Wright Flying School, he took a weekend job as a janitor there where he could schedule his last cleaning duties in a ground schooling class where he listened to the instructor, taking balloon fandango based out of my sister Jane Rule Burdine’s back notes and copying illustrations after the class was over. the instructor yard in taylor, Mississippi. at these, and other balloon events, i met noticed this and told him if he could pass his test, he would teach him balloon pilots David eastland, Bill Munday, Dr. Steve Wooten, and to fly. John Robinson passed the test and was taught to fly, gaining his Johnny Jennings, all crack pilots and bon vivants in their own rights! pilot’s license in 1927 from the Curtiss-Wright Flying School.

Fun was had and stories are still being told of some of the shenanigans according to a book by tom Simmons, The Man Called Brown and pranks pulled at these occasions. On one of the first flights out Condor, the Forgotten History of an African American Fighter Pilot, of Kay Johnson’s cow pasture south of indianola, trader John drifted John Robinson, along with partner Cornelius Coffey, formed silently and low over an old black gentleman’s vegetable garden as he aeronautics clubs, a flight school in illinois, and was instrumental was hoeing around and tending to his tomatoes. John leaned out of in starting the tuskegee air institute, home of the tuskegee airmen, the gondola and said, “Hey, my friend, which way is new Orleans?” the first african-american military Startled, the gardener, having never seen aviators in the United States armed anything like a hot air balloon before, Forces. as the winds of war were tipped his hat back on his head as he brewing in europe, Benito Mussolini pointed south and exclaimed, “yonder was setting his sights on ethiopia to way, lORD, yonder way!” i almost revenge an embarrassing italian defeat at thought John would land the balloon adowa in 1896. John Robinson was and offer him a ride! hired as personal pilot for “emperor of During this time, i met and became ethiopia, Ras tafari, Haile Selassie close friends with the dashing pilot and (Power of the trinity), neguse neguse author tom Simmons. Whenever we (King of Kings) elect of god and had a festival or air related event, tom Conquering lion of lambs.” the would fly his stunt bi-plane in doing young pilot moved to addis ababa. loops and barrel rolls as he approached During a solitary patrol on October the landing strip. He was an ace pilot 3, 1935, a small speck in the sky noticed who always showed up wearing a leather three columns storming across the flight helmet, a long flowing silk scarf Mareb on a forty-mile front. the italian around his neck, burly khaki jodhpurs, army was composed of “100,000 men, and brown leather knee boots. a raconteur par excellence, tom often Vintage French Portez biplane that Colonel Robinson with 100,000 in reserve, 6,000 machine flew on reconnaissance missions in Ethopia before the relayed a story. “i got a call from a friend invasion of Benito Mussolini’s Italian Army. The large guns, 700 pieces of artillery, 150 tanks, to deliver a very special passenger to a leather flight gloves he is holding were donated to Tom 140 aircraft, several thousand motorized boat anchored twenty-five miles off the Simmons and are now on display in the Mississippi vehicles, and 6,000 mules. it was the beginning of a Fascist march that would gulf Coast in the Chandeleur islands. i History Museum. end peace and engulf the world in a was gassing up a Piper Super Cub as a decade of war.” that small speck in the sky was an “obsolete French blue and white t38 supersonic trainer with naSa markings landed.

Portez plane, it’s engine throttled back to reduce noise. its lone pilot, My passenger was Stewart Roosa, former smoke jumper, test pilot, a young black man from gulfport, Mississippi, looked down on the and then astronaut, who had just been to the moon and back! Once invading army and unwittingly was the first american to witness i delivered him to the island and the waiting yacht SLOW BOAT, i the prologue to the Second World War.” told him about a balloon festival being held in greenville the next Mississippi has had its share of pilots. Some of them stand out weekend, and he wanted to come! ‘that’s one way of flying i’ve never tried!’” arriving the next weekend, astronaut Stewart Roosa was above all others. DM TOM SIMMONS COLLECTION

TOM SIMMONS COLLECTION

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EVENTS

Big & Rich, February 26 at Gold Strike Casino Resort

LeAnn Rimes, January 8 at Gold Strike Casino Resort.

FESTIVALS, MUSIC & FUN THINGS TO DO January 8

Tunica

February 22-27

Natchez

ROBERT JONES JR.

LeAnn Rimes

Southern Environments

The Prophets

Gold Strike Casino Tunicatravel.com

Virtual and hybrid presentations of Southern Studies, Nature Writing and more colin.edu/nlcc

January 14, 12 pm (Virtual event on Facebook) Lemuria Bookstore, Jackson

Antique Bottle & Collectibles Show and Sale

February 23, 7 pm

CHARLES BLOW

Code of The Freaks Documentary

The Devil You Know

Mississippi Fair Grounds Trade Mart Building cherylcomens@gmail.com

Southern Circuit Tour of Independent Filmmakers Bolognapac.com

February 3, 6 pm: Lemuria, Jackson, Crowdcast

January 23

January 25-30

Jackson

MICHELLE DUSTER

Cleveland

Cleveland Restaurant Week

February 26

Presented by Team Cleveland and Keep Cleveland Boring clevelandmschamber.com

Big & Rich

January 29-31

Tunica

Clarksdale

February 28

Memphis

That Golden Girls Show! A Puppet parody

clarksdalefilmfestival.com

February 6, 11am – 12:30pm Carrollton Community House VsitCarrolltonMs.com

Far East, Deep South Documentary Southern Circuit Tour of Independent Filmmakers Bologna Performing Arts Center Bolognapac.com

February 20

Memphis

Jaimee Paul and Leif Shires In Concert Halloran Centre at the Orpheum Orpheum-memphis.com

116 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

The Four Winds February 16, 12 pm (Virtual event on Zoom) Lemuria Bookstore, Jackson

LITERARY EVENTS

ANDREW FEILER

NICK

A Better Life For Their Children

January 4, 10 am: Square Books, Oxford January 5, 5:30 pm (Virtual event on Facebook) Lemuria Bookstore, Jackson

February 18, 12 pm (Virtual event on Facebook) Lemuria Bookstore, Jackson JAMES CARL NELSON

ED TARKINGTON

February 23, 12 pm (Virtual event on Facebook) Lemuria Bookstore, Jackson

MICHAEL FARRIS SMITH

Cleveland

KRISTIN HANNAH

Halloran Centre at the Orpheum Orpheum-memphis.com

Carrollton

A Taste of Soup and Art Exhibit

Ida B. The Queen February 9, 12 pm (Virtual event on Facebook) Lemuria Bookstore, Jackson

Gold Strike Casino Resort Tunicatravel.com

Clarksdale Film Festival

February 18

Cleveland

The Fortunate Ones January 12, 12 pm (Virtual event on Facebook) Lemuria Bookstore, Jackson

The York Patrol

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Delta Magazine 2021

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DELTA SEEN

Haley Kelly, Emily Rowlen, Anne Barton Jackson and Mari Alex Sandridge at H Squared

Ryan and Price Rosson of Rosson Co.

Lacie Pearson, Sarah Aylward and Savannah Pearson at The Wishing Well

Photos by Blake Crocker

Katie Plum, Jamie Claire Musselwhite, Mason Smith, Taylor Summers, Katie Summers and Sophia Roark at the new Zoe Coffee Shop

Lacarius Acoff and Tristain Steadman at Abraham’s

Maci Sullivan and Hallee Pinkerton at Rosson Co.

Indianola girls Charlotte Land, Linda Davis, Ann Labella and Susan Casano shopping in Cleveland 118 | JanUaRy/FeBRUaRy 2021

Open House in Cleveland on November 7

Remi Emiriau at H Squared

Beth Mansour, Joyce Marie Sherman and Marilyn Alford at Gilbow’s

Martha Wheeler, Morgan McCain, Neely Antici and Shelby Kitchings at Mod + Proper

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DELTA SEEN

Open House in Clarksdale on November 19 Photos by Colleen Buyers

Erica Eason Hall and Hayden G. Hall of Hayden G. Hall Art Gallery

Kathy Goode and Katie Flowers at Magpie Gift & Art

Art and Carol Crivaro of Bluesberry Cafe

Roger Stolle of Cathead Blues & Folk Art

The Ladies of Delta Creations

Lori Townsend of Willow

Spread at Willow Botanicals & Goods

Mila Cirilli at Juke Joint Fest Headquarters

Tameal Edwards of Joyas Boutique

Ann Williams of Collective Seed & Supply Delta Magazine 2021

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Thefinalword

The Mississippi Delta—Misunderstood

Dale Beasley, the author of What I learned at the ‘Zoo, is a sixth-generation retired Army Lieutenant Colonel and an Iraqi War veteran, having served throughout Asia, Europe, Africa and the Middle East. A husband and father of four, his two sons also serve in the US Armed Services. Beasley is a trauma emergency registered nurse and currently makes his home in Gluckstadt, Mississippi.

n a military convoy between Kuwait and Baghdad in 2004 during Operation iraqi Freedom ii, i had the amazing and difficult opportunity to introduce the Delta. ese convoys were quite stressful because the iraqis usually attacked us. Conversations aimed to cut the tension generally consisted of news back home, our families, what we had done on midtour leave, and SeC Football.

Reading old notes as i drafted my What I Learned At e ‘Zoo novel, i came across this story about the Delta. e book is about the summer my army brat brother and i spent with family in yazoo City because our military father wanted us to understand that our roots run deep in the Delta soil.

One particular day on convoy, Sergeant Hytch talked about his recent leave from east arkansas; i was interested in what he

O

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had to say because he had spent time in the Mississippi Delta. as the conversation continued between Sergeant Hytch and me regarding the Delta, our iraqi interrupter/interpreter Muhammad and our roof gunner Specialist Hernandez from el Paso, texas, hung on to everything we said.

While keeping an open eye for the enemy, Specialist Hernandez asked, “Hey Colonel, where is this Delta, in Mississippi? it sounds like it’s in a state of its own.” i replied, “it does seem like it’s a state of its own, unlike any other region in Mississippi.”

Muhammad, flipping through his english dictionary, said, “i am looking up Mississippi, but i don’t see Delta listed. Do they speak their own language?” i responded, “e east-west boundary of this geographic area is between the Mississippi River and interstate i-55. e north-south boundary is between the lobbies of the Peabody Hotel in Memphis, tennessee, and the eola Hotel in natchez, Mississippi. and, yes, they have their way of saying things.”

Muhammad said, “i see the east-west boundary, but i do not see the hotels—why would you have a border crossing in a hotel lobby?” i attempted to explain that had always been “just a saying,” but as i turned around to look at Mohamed, i realized it wasn’t translating. So i turned the talk back to Sergeant Hytch. “you said you went to Delta State. Did you catch any football and get any good food?”

Muhammad interrupted. “you said this Delta is inside of the Mississippi borders, but yet you just referred to it as a state...Delta State.” Hernandez shook his head and laughed as i explained, “at Delta State is a college, a university, in the Delta, and the Delta is not a separate state.”

Sergeant Hytch said, “i did get to go to the Catfish Festival in Belzoni and the Crawfish Festival in leland.” He also

BY DALE BEASLEY

mentioned that he gained ten pounds while at home. looking up catfish and crawfish in his dictionary, Muhammad asked, “So you have holidays based on eating unclean food?” i replied, “ey are not holy-days, they are festivals; each region has its festival.

Why do you say the food is unclean?”

“Because these creatures live on the bottom of the rivers,” replied Muhammad.

Knowing i was getting frustrated with Muhammad’s questions, Sergeant Hytch quickly corrected: “e food isn’t unclean; catfish and crawfish are fresh.” after i regrouped for a moment, i explained that the Delta has unique places to eat, like Cicero’s and lillo’s in leland; the Crystal grill in greenwood; Doe’s eat Place in greenville; Crawdad’s in Merigold; PReaux’s Cajun Mudbugs in yazoo City; and Bentonia Bugs in Bentonia. i also explained how “the Delta” has its own music style called the Delta blues. Muhammad still looked in his dictionary...” Why is the music blue?” noticing that Specialist Hernandez still smiled, shaking his head, i explained how the Delta blues is “a form of music about hard times and women doing you wrong.” a few minutes passed. en Muhammad said, “So you have this place called the Delta. it is a separate providence than your state; the regions are divided up based on their particular festivals; at these festivals, you eat unclean food; and these places that serve this ‘good food’ are the centers of their regions. is Delta speaks a different language; its border crossing is in hotel lobbies, and they like music that glorifies repressive times and disloyal women. i do not think i will visit this place called the Delta.” looking out into the desert, shaking my head, i asked Sergeant Hytch, “How much further is it to Baghdad?” DM

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Fred Zepponi III 662-418-6767 fzepponi@mossyoakproperties.com

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We specialize in selling recreational, timber and agricultural properties in Mississippi and Alabama. O ce locations in West Point and Clarksdale Mississippi.

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Mossy Oak Properties Bottomland Real Estate

Each Mossy Oak Properties o ce is independently owned and operated