Bon Voyage May 2010 by Deenar Press and Publishing

bon voyage

Come savour the flavour of Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest Indian cusine.

Passage to India A FULLY LICENSED RESTAURANT

For Reservations: 24563452 www.restaurantpassagetoindia.com

May 2010

5,600

metres above sea level, beauty surrounds and peace abounds

(see page 26)

handy photography tips to help capture your time away (see page 18)

Bienvenue Oman’s first travel monthly is finally here! We are excited to come out with our first issue of Bon Voyage and can’t wait to hear what you, our readers, have to say. Unlike the ubiquitous travel brochures, we are packed with a bunch of inbound and outbound features enticing you to experience our beautiful Oman and travel the world out there. It is after all a huge playground. Travelling is experiencing, and experiencing is living. So let’s enjoy and travel together. Here’s a little taste of what you can get your teeth sunk into before planning your next discovery: come battle the sub-zero temperatures in the Himalayas (pg26), discover the ‘hidden’ Wadi Damm (pg20), get mesmerised in Capri (pg44) or zip line around the Hajar Mountains (pg34). We also throw you tips on how to lighten

your load and how to capture those lavish photographic memories on your time away. We will take you around Oman, which is not short on spectacular places to explore, or for a bit of ultimate relaxation, simply indulge at Ayana Spa (pg56) or stay at the Shangri-La Barr Al Jissa’s Al Husn (pg64). We had a fantastic time producing this issue, and we hope you enjoy it cover to cover. We would love to hear from you, why don’t you send in your travel stories, thoughts, comments and photos to: bonvoyage@deenarmedia.com Let the journey begin…

300

alkaloid chemicals in a poison dart frog which can be used for medicinal purposes (see page 37)

21 “beehive” tombs dating back to the 3000 BC epoch, Dhakiliyah region (see page 24)

500

people who have been lucky enough to travel to space (see page 68)

1.500

Omani Rials for a traditional Thai delicious dessert (see page 66)

-hole signature Greg Norman golf course featured at The Wave, Muscat (see page 52)

2,000

years ago was when the China Wall was built (see page 58)

bon voyage

Also available at all authorized power retailers and dealers

EDITORIAL Editor-in-chief

Hatim al Taie

Editorial Head

Hyesha Barrett

Content Manager

Sujata Sengupta

Principal Correspondent

Minette Brunkhorst

Senior Designer

Shyniben Koyakkil

Designer

Muneeb Khan

CORPORATE

26 20

Managing Director General Manager

Abdullah al Taie Rathish Ramachandran

Asst. General Manager

Terry Mathukutty

Sales Manager

Emily Matthews

CORRESPONDENTS

Sasha Chisholm Natalie Johnson Brenda Costa Roberts Ciaran Tierney Lise Tyrrell

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Hyesha Barrett Shakeel al Balushi

Produced by

56 44

Deenar Press and Publishing LLC PO Box 139, PC 102, Al Qurm, Sultanate of Oman Tel: + 968 24 696868, Fax: +968 24 693569 E-mail: info@deenarmedia.com

Published by

Al Roya Press and Publishing LLC ÂŠ All rights reserved this publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permision of the publishers; while every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information here in, or any consequences arising from it.

Printed at Al Anan Printing Press LLC, Sultanate of Oman

Poison Dart Frog p37

Contents CHeCk IN 8

News: Your monthly Regional and International Travel News

p54 Madrid

25 In search of: Best Shawarma in Town 74 Tipping uncensored: The Low Down 40 Events: The Oman Travel Mart (OTM) 52 ITC: The Wave, Muscat featured 57 Exotic fruits: Taste the Difference 76 Travel directory: Your Local Guide

p44 Capri

around Town

CHeCk OUT

p38 Belize

11 Tips: 15 tips to Lighten your Load 12 Come here: Stunning Oman and Beautiful Utah

18 Photography: 10 Best Travel Tips 32 Get planning: Leh-Ladakh uncut 37 Animal kingdom: Poison Dart Frog 38 Eco-friendly lodges: Belize 48 Travel brief: In and Around Capri 56 Spa: Get Carried Away in Ayana 62 Museum: Learn at the Children’s Museum

64 Room with a view: Shangri-la’s Al Husn

66 Restaurant: Taste Narjeel’s excellent Thai dishes

71 Exotic dish: Scoffing Scorpions 6

May 2010

Cave in Wadi Dhum p20

Madrid p54

Space p68

Jabrin Castle p50

Regulars 20 Wadi Dhum: Discover the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Hiddenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Triangle

26 Himalayas: On Top of the World 34 Via ferrata: Zip line around the Hajar Mountains

42 Diving in Oman: Introducing Amphibia 44 Island of Capri: Come get Mesmerised 50 Historical Oman: Jabrin Castle 54 Travellers stories: Arriba! In Madrid

p26 Himalayas

58 Landmark: The Great Wall of China

p58 China

60 International diving: Visit the Cathedral in Thailand

68 Natural wonder: Space, The Final

p60 Thailand

Destination

72 Offroader: We drive the Sierra Denali Diving in Thailand p60

Great Wall of China p58

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NEWS

Beauty has an address The Ministry of Tourism has launched Oman’s largest summer campaign backed by the sultanate’s leading hotels and Oman Air. With sales through travel agencies and Oman Air Holidays, this campaign will run from May to October 1st 2010 and includes shopping mall promotions across the GCC as well as trade workshops. It highlights Oman’s continuing focus on integrated campaigns with key stakeholders and covers Salalah’s Khareef season, city-based accommodation and regional getaways. Oman’s Minister of Tourism, Her Excellency Dr. Rajiha Abdul Ameer Ali says that this summer campaign is an extremely competitive industry-wide initiative. Packages based on low-priced air fares and inexpensive accommodation rates have been offered with the inducement of receiving an extra day for free for a weekend or longer booking.

Oman Air plans to add eight new destinations Oman Air, the sultanate’s flag carrier, has increased its authorised capital to OMR500mn from OMR300mn amid plans to add eight new destinations in what is expected to be a challenging year.”We are confident that over a period of time when the airline has established its presence in the industry and its network has matured, we will see positive returns on investment,” Ahmad bin Abdul Nabi Macki, Oman Air chairman and Minister of National Economy, said in an e-mailed statement announcing the

LEICA - Camera with GPS Characterised by clear lines, ergonomic design and extremely simple handling, the Leica V-Lux 20 is a 12.1 megapixel digital compact camera. A high performance 4.1–49.2 mm f/3.3–4.9 ASPH zoom lens, with a range of focal lengths of 25–300 mm in 35-mm format, is ideal for almost any photographic situation. The generously dimensioned, 3-inch monitor of the V-Lux 20 has a diagonal of 7.5cms and a resolution of 460,000 pixels. Integrated image stabilisation helps photographers in every shooting situation and also prevents fuzzy pictures caused by camera shake or difficult lighting conditions. The movie function in this Leica enables the recording of moving pictures in HD quality. Its smart automatic features such as face recognition, automatic scene modes and smart

May 2010

capital increase. Oman Air will add Kuala Lumpur, Kathmandu, Dar-Es-Salaam, Islamabad, Lahore and Milan to its list of international destinations this year, which is expected to be “challenging but buoyant,” the carrier said.”The industry is expected to show improved results in 2010 as passenger travel is picking up, especially in the premium cabins. It will however take time for the business to return to the levels seen before the economic crisis,” Macki said.

tagging

exposure are all available in movie mode, together with the camera’s zoom functions. This is the first Leica digital camera to feature GPS tagging. This new feature allows photographers to record not only the geographical coordinates of the location, but also the local time of every shot. The V-Lux 20 can also display the local sights and interesting places. This feature offers a total of 500,000 so-called ‘points of interest’ in 73 different countries. The GPS tagging function is an extremely useful aid for archiving pictures. This model is available at HITEC CENTRE for OMR320 (Contact: 24497384).

Jewel of Muscat ready for next leg

Luxury Lodges on Sir Bani Yas Island, Abu Dhabi Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas announced that it will manage two new luxury lodges on Sir Bani Yas Island in Abu Dhabi. Due to open in late 2010, both resort lodges will offer unique experiences that capitalise on the impressively diverse beach and wildlife blend of Sir Bani Yas Island. These lodges occupy one of the best locations on the island, in the west section of the Arabian Wildlife Park. Set in such natural seclusion overlooking the Arabian Sea with salt-dome hilltops enticing a myriad of free roaming wildlife, this area leads to captivating adventures for guests. The rooms also have spectacular wildlife views.

After a long search north of Colombo they finally succeeded in finding two teak trees of the appropriate size to be used for the new masts. A team of skilled craftsmen is working on the new masts that will be shaped and installed by the end of next week. Once the new masts have been stepped, and the crew has done some sea tests on them, Captain Saleh al Jabri will confirm their departure from Galle this month. As the Jewel of Muscat has no engine on board she depends on the wind to propel her, and to do so she must have sails to harness the wind. Whilst the process of selecting the correct trees, felling them and preparing was underway, the rest of the crew worked on new sails, which were made completely from palm leaves and will replace the canvas sails used thus far into the journey. The new sails maintain the authenticity of the Jewel of Muscat and reflect the methods that would have been used in the 9th Century. In the interest of historical research, the crewmembers will now use these woven sails for the remainder of the voyage to test their strength and handling characteristics. During her stay in Sri Lanka, the Jewel of Muscat received a warm and

Photo & text by OmanSail

enthusiastic reception from the people and despite occasional heavy rain, the ship has received more than 4,000 visitors who got an opportunity to interact with the members and learn about the Jewel and her epic voyage thus far. The crew will continue with the general maintenance of the ship for the next few days to prepare the Jewel for a long and difficult voyage to Penang, Malaysia where she is expected to arrive on June 5th, 2010. As with all the other legs, this arrival date is dependent on the strength and direction of the wind.

Connect with Oman’s Tourism High Fliers Join hundreds of tourism professionals in the sultanate’s most vibrant Tourism Event of the year! OTM - the Oman Travel Mart is the country’s premier exhibition for the travel and tourism industry with focus on promoting inbound and outbound tourism. It provides an annual opportunity for organisations in Oman

and abroad to showcase their products and services whilst presenting a diverse range of destinations. OTM attracts a diverse assortment of trade, corporate and general visitors and provides an ideal venue to promote your products, develop partnerships and generate valuable new leads.

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NEWS

Direct Kenya Airways flights to Muscat Kenya Airways introduced their three direct weekly flights to Muscat, its 48th destination, which will run on a Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Commercial Director Mr. Mohan Chandra of Kenya Airways said that the national carrier will present flights to passengers travelling from Muscat to major destinations such as Dar es Salaam, Nairobi, Zanzibar, Johannesburg, Mombasa, Comoros, Kigali, Lagos and Bujumbura. Special introductory fares are offered to passengers in Oman and a number of activities have been planned to promote the flights to Nairobi. Mr. Chandra says that through the interline partners, KLM-Air France, Oman residents are able to enjoy the African safari packages available.

Oman Sail’s Continuous Success After four months of assembly in Oman’s southern most port of Salalah, skipper Paul Standbridge has already taken Oman Sail’s A100 on a tour of the Arabian Gulf. Named Majan, after the ancient name for Oman, Oman Sail’s new flagship is now operational and currently establishing routes for the Indian Ocean 5 Capes Race. Based on the proven design of another trimaran, Sodebo, which is the holder of the solo North Atlantic crossing record, the design has been tailored for the needs of Oman Sail. The first chapter started when Mohsin Al Busaidi returned to the shores of Oman after successfully circumnavigating the world non-stop on a 75ft ship, Musandam. From there, further success has followed as the two Oman teams took 1st and 3rd place in the 2009 European iShares Cup, and two Omanis are currently sailing around the world in the Clipper Race. By 2015, there will be seven academies running across the country enabling over 30,000 Omanis to try sailing.

May 2010

Mr. Chandra also added that to cater to the growing customer needs, Kenya Airways has continued to invest in a growing

network, together with fleet modernisation, dedication to safety and expanding aviation standards in the continent.

15 tips to lighten your load

There are three types of people when it comes to packing: those who forget things, those who pack too much, and those who never do either. Most of us fall into one of the first two categories. Fortunately there are a few things you can do while packing to ensure you have everything you need and not much more!

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Divide the clothes when travelling with others. This way all of you will have a change of clothes in case of lost luggage.

Call the airline to confirm the number of bags allowed and the weight restrictions. Save yourself from overpacking, throwing things out at the airport or paying an extra fee.

Make a list of everything you’ll need, including your medications and toiletries. Double check the list before you seal everything up and you’re guaranteed not to forget any essentials. You can always buy stuff there anyways.

3 4

Lighten the clothing load. Think multifunctional when choosing items: mix and match clothing that can be worn on different days. Roll technique. Somehow it seems that bags will hold more if the clothes are rolled rather than folded. If you roll in tissue paper, the clothes will also get less wrinkled.

Minimize on toiletries. Take only what you deem necessary and use nalgene or used bottles as re fillers – they are less heavy with less bulk. Take only what you need for the length of the trip instead of coming back with full bottles.

Keep passport / documents in your hand luggage. Have a copy on your person and also in your email account. Also handy is to store the details of your emergency ‘lost card’ telephone numbers in case your credit card or ATM card is lost or stolen.

Keep a spare set of clothes, valuables, medication and important documents in your hand luggage. You just never know with flights nowadays.

12 13 14

Shoes. To keep your bags clean and odor free, place the shoes inside old socks and then inside airtight plastic bags (ziplock). Ditch too many reading materials. You only really need one and you can buy some at your destination or on your way home. Don’t stack books or heavy items on top of each other. Spread them out throughout your bag for better weight placement.

Keep valuables close by. Split up your bank cards, cash, travellers’ cheques and credit cards as much as possible in different places. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.

There are often security checks. Make sure your hand luggage doesn’t hold more than the restricted limit - some places don’t allow gel or liquid unless they are in individual three-ounce containers.

When packing a torch (or any other item with batteries), turn the batteries around so that if the item is accidentally turned on, you won’t empty the batteries.

Locks. Use TSA-approved locks otherwise, if your bag is selected for random screening, agents will have to break the lock to get inside. Follow these tips and you’re guaranteed to show up at your end destination worry free and with lighter bags full of essentials instead of heavy bags crammed with things you’ll never use. Enjoy your travels! bon voyage

TAKE ME HERE

May 2010

madina al nahdah AMERAT

bon voyage

TAKE ME HERE

May 2010

wahiba sands SHARQIYAH REGION

bon voyage

TAKE ME HERE

May 2010

Kolob Canyons Just two miles from the noise and traffic of interstate 15 lies the Kolob Canyons, region of Zion National Park, a quiet, colourful and scenic collection of red cliffs and narrow canyons with none of the overcrowding problems that affect the main valley 20 miles to the southeast. To drive between the two sections takes over an hour, which is one reason why most tourists miss this little-known northern area, and stick to the frequently travelled east-west route, part of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Grand Circleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of the southwest through Las Vegas, Zion, Bryce Canyon and beyond.

bon voyage

PHOTOGRAPHY Tips

Planning a trip or vacation? Natalie Johnson brings you 10 handy travel photography tips to get you thinking about how to capture your time away

Shooting in RAW and JPEG Fine will offer you greater flexibility on your return, but this means you’ll need to travel with several high capacity memory cards (4GB and above). Get into the habit of downloading your images to a laptop or photo storage device every night so you can free up your memory cards for the next day. When you go off shooting, take twice the amount of cards with you than you would expect to need.

Travel photography by its very nature is inspirational and exciting – but it’s easy to get carried away when you prepare what to take with you. Whilst it would be fantastic to take all of your kit abroad, practicalities such as baggage allowance and insurance costs could mean you are better off hiring equipment on arrival or opting for lesser items. Ideally if you choose to take your own kit you’ll need to travel light: one body (unless you have room for a spare), a wad of memory cards, a lightweight mini-tripod or even the super flexible Gorillapod, portable storage unit, a pocket-size compact, a flash unit, a selection of lenses and a durable camera bag that distributes the weight evenly over your shoulders and protects against heat, cold, sand and moisture.

May 2010

es for f genr icking o e p o tp ide sc re, bu up a w er to explo ely help or s n e p o at e ph Travel photogra e will ultim nly have th a id k o v a r t u a o f o o e t y t th d. If e lens, op nses l e e l 0m. fi h 0 e c whi in th select on m or 28-3 f u o y f r hinde r budget to n 18-200m point far o l a o room m such as nd the foca it could be cal o s fi o fast zo mes you’ll other time variable f a t ti Some istance, bu se, as such althy wide d o e in the der your n ts with a h lephoto is er n ar te u t ref s t o t t h a g h i r ould p lens oug ns th r w e h l r t o h s t e llow leng room trait prim and fo e.g. extra r angle f you have sider: a po ngle lens ( ). a I n m . e o l idea ice c a wid -200m er cho r 85mm), to (e.g. 70 d i w o a o 0mm teleph (e.g. 5 m) and a m 10-24

Each night, take the time to jot down a few notes in a journal about the day’s events. This will help when you come to adding keywords and descriptions of the places, people and activities featured in your photos. Alternatively some cameras allow for small sound bites to be attributed to each image which is another way to reference your pics.

If you find gaining inspiration of 5 what to shoot difficult, start by taking a walk to the local tourist information centre and ask the staff where they recommend you visit. Explain what style of photography you enjoy and ask whether there are any local guides or fellow photographers in the area who would be willing to show you some of the sights away from the tourist track. Take a look at postcard stands to decide what areas or resorts appeal to you and read through guide books or search online before your trip to get an idea of what you want to achieve.

Most places in the world are relatively safe and the people friendly, but there are a few pockets of the globe where this may not be the case, so always take care to be conscious of your safety and take some sensible precautionary steps to reap better confidence in unfamiliar surroundings. The first thing you should do after booking your trip is to take out adequate travel insurance for you and your gear and check the policy carefully to see what is covered – some adrenaline-orientated activities such as white water rafting or bungee jumping may be excluded for example. Invest in solid luggage locks or an anti-theft bag. Pocket a small amount of local currency in an easy-to-reach place and the rest of your cash elsewhere. Also keep a list of emergency numbers and phrases on your person.

In choice tourist destinations it can be tricky ‘thinking outside of the box’ when there are so many cliché or timeless views of recognisable landmarks and sight-seeing subjects. Perhaps limit yourself to ten ‘safe’ shots – focusing on composition and technique and then unleash your creativity and focus on originality. Shoot from the floor with a wide angle or fish eye lens, climb a tower and shoot from above, wait for dawn/dusk – mount your camera on a tripod and slow the shutter speed to capture the landmark in a beautiful light incorporating the ghostly movement of tourists strolling by.

gest the big any One of g blocks for n li is b stum apher hotogr love travel p ce. We’d all n e autiful confid ose be traits – th b a r por to g mental t’s environ g the subjec in s r s e te expr arac and ch hoose c culture s u f ny o but ma ay. All you u aw 6 sk if yo metres t from subject and a o”, just o h s to the lepho ay “N off a te alk right up to . If they do s e smile, to fire te w li g is o a do ey re Be p need to their photo. on. If th ey may have e v o m h e can tak ank them and a few shots. T l frames so th itia off in e r rtunity e s fi e smile, d is oppo xed ing th m an r th e u e th d s k u le n tha rtab and e rela ncomfo LCD monitor sense they ar es but u n e e b m . If you em the ore fra show th the histogram grab a few m on. If there e k v to chec opportunity to stop and mo express with to e ile and take th en it is time ply sm im h s w re s ie r sen bar guage is a lan and hands. ce your fa

If you haven’t yet booked your travel arrangements, investigate the place a little further to find out when there are spiritual or religious events, traditions, national holidays and carnival style celebrations. Visiting during these times can offer a great magnitude of photographic opportunity, especially for portraiture and documentary style shots.

When your holiday has been and gone, consider what to do next with your images. If you’ve bagged some wonderful frames you could enter a choice selection in to a travel photography competition. Alternatively you could upload the files to an image stock site and harvest an extra revenue stream. You could use these images as a basis for a portfolio to approach magazines, travel guides or tourism websites for work. Finally you could even use the images to arrange a discount or free stay on your next trip. Simply contact the hotel manager and enquire whether they have a need for any promotional photos.

bon voyage

WADI

May 2010

Damm! Hidden deep within the Hajar mountains flow crystal clear waterfalls, streaming over white-stripped grey limestone. All this surrounded by vertical, often overhanging rock formations. Hyesha Barrett feels the need to share

adi Dham, Damm or Dhum, whichever way it is spelt is an awesome wadi slicing deep into the northwestern flank of the Jabal Shams plateau. Literally translated to ‘hidden’ in Arabic and once you set foot inside, you wish it was a lot easier to find, though good discoveries are worth the wait. True to its name, this wadi is hidden in the triangle between Jabal Khawr, Jabal Misht and Jabal Shams. Take the road from Muscat towards Nizwa, setting the odometer to 0 at the Clock Tower - Burj al Sahwa roundabout. At 30.6kms you will pass over the exquisite Fanja bridge, which remains to date one of the highest rising bridges around town. Although due to the unpredictable wadis overflowing nowadays, precautions are being taken and more bridges are currently under construction. Leaving the distant city fading behind us, the vast countryside started to show off its ever-changing splendour. A rare sight for our Omani landscape, it must have rained recently as the usual barren mountains had a green tinge to them. Keep on following the road towards Nizwa but at 136kms take a left following the direction to Bahla and Ibri, leaving Nizwa veering off to the right. If you fancy visiting a little part of history, follow the signs to the Jabrin Castle (see page 50), otherwise take a left towards Ibri (94kms). At 180kms you will pass a sign marking Al Ayn, 72kms away. Red hills pop up on both sides around the 192kms mark with Jebel Misht forming a dramatic backdrop in the distance. This is precisely the reason Omani terrain is so spectacular where its ever shifting

topography flows from flat, barren ground to small striking red dunes, with the occasional burst of random villages sprouting out through green oases surrounded by 3000m mountains. At one point the rising sun illuminated the winding narrow road, which swirled off into the distance zigzagging in and around the rolling hills, creating the magical effect of driving in a snow globe. Breathtaking, to say the least. You will eventually reach the first sign for Dham at 210kms, directing you a further 39kms. The colossal mountain range that blended off into the horizon some kilometres earlier, reappear with stunning hills flowing at their footstep. A little oasis surrounded

You wish it was a lot easier to find, though good discoveries are worth the wait by white dunes emerges at 219kms and you can tell you have reached a time long forgotten as run down forts dot the outskirts of this dilapidated city. At 224kms you will pass through Amlah village. The range of mountains here are sensational, a soft mix and match of red, brown and black hues, picture perfect resembling an abstract painting of a wave formation, flowing from the sandy bed up to the mountains’ peak. Take a left at 226kms direction Damm passing by the famous 5000 year-old Bat tombs at 237kms. If you haven’t seen them yet, they are definitely worth a visit; see box bon voyage

WADI

for information. Keep on going straight and at 244kms, high-rising hills will curve with the road, where you will really start to feel that sense of adventure and exploration seep in. At 246.2kms go straight over the roundabout passing by a rusty orange house on the right and you will finally hit a gravelled road at 246.7kms. A sign for Dhum 1km, will point off to the right as the road forks leading to a huge mosque, an overtly sized one for such a modest village. It was being constructed by the time we ventured on this trip and is adjacent to a dizzying bright green house. You know you are nearly there as a few colourful houses align the path towards a little oasis, which will lead you right up to the wadi’s entrance. There are two ways to enter: you can follow this track all the way in or do a little detour and gain a nice birds eye view of the wadi, if you take a right and go up above the village. We took the scenic route around, a great spot to capture pictures of the whole area and landed at our destination, clocking 251kms. Drive in as far as you can, park under the shade on the right, replenish your water and snack supply and enjoy. Ahlan wa sahlan, welcome to Wadi Dham. Take a look at the ancient rock art on the right before following the falaj system (similar to a miniature aqueduct) which will direct you all the way to an actual dam. Keep to the left after you pass over the dam and clamber atop the mountain face. You will dip up and down over various levels and eventually stop underneath a small hooded cave

May 2010

with a dangling rope allowing you easier access to its level. The last time we came here, we had to rely on our resources using each other as a human ladder. Now, it is made a lot simpler with a stack of stones helping you gain ground and momentum with the rope. Pardon the pun but Damm this wadi’s beautiful! A far cry from the ubiquitous towering dull brown mountains that often overhang the popular wadis, this one is open ground with rock pools of fresh water flowing freely through and over the flat white-stripped grey limestone, which stretch out to the soaring mountains on both sides. Stick to the right and around two hours later – this is with

picture breaks and stopping to take in the scenery, otherwise it can be easily done in under an hour - you will notice some green leaves spurting up through the limestone. Even if you do not venture further up this wadi, you have to see this lush little waterfall shaded by an overhanging rock, with its steady stream of water dripping over the green moss into the crystal clear emerald pool. Take a delicious dip in this hidden paradise by crossing over the water and down through the vegetation; or you can take the easy way down and jump in from above. Beyond this point the wadi is dry, but it will ultimately take you to the northwest side of Jabal Shams. A few of us ventured a bit higher and found a cave full of brown bats, with a deep darkened tunnel leading off towards the back. Without a torch to illuminate our path, we attempted it blind but quickly made a swift 180 degrees turn when a bat hit me directly in the face. Although cute, these creatures spread disease like wildfire and we felt very discomforted trespassing their

territory. The sandy floor was etched with our footprints and a certain part of the cave was covered in paw prints. Not giving it much thought and putting the tracks down to foxes, as we exited the cave we came across a couple of Omani hunters, wearing loose ragged clothing, socks as shoes and rifles swaying off their shoulders. Even with Arabic speakers among us there was a language barrier, but we gathered an understanding from these Bedouin hunters that their weapons were

used to fend off wolves. The thoughts we had of spending the night quickly dissipated as we re-convened with the rest of the group, sunbathing in the mid afternoon sun. We decided to take a different route back to the cars, this time on the other side of the mountain, which lead us down to the right hand side of the dam. Be careful if you do venture this way, as you will need to climb over a couple of crevasses and through holes that will make you curl up and move in positions that would make a contortionist proud. It is still very safe, as long as you are vigilant with your grip. Be careful with loose clothing as it will probably

get snagged on the sharp rocks jutting out unpredictably. There are two ways to and fro this wadi, albeit a tad longer this way, the scenery is worth the drive and it is a lot easier to get back on track in case you lose your way. Admittedly, we tried a different route via the Rustaq road, but ended up doing a massive loop ending us back near the starting point of the wadi. As dusk fell, we gathered by a convenient shawarma shop in an unknown town and even the locals of our group, much to their dismay, had to ask for directions. Just back track on yourself for the return journey and you are guaranteed to arrive back safe each way takes around three hours. Is it not part of the adventure to get lost anyways?

bon voyage

WADI

Small mouse-tailed bat (Rhinopoma muscatellum)

Must bring

Jabrin Castle

Jabrin Castle dominates the surrounding plains. It was built in the 1700’s as a palace and later converted into a castle. The castle is open daily and admission is free. To reach it, take the Ibri road from Nizwa for about 45kms, turn right at the signpost for Jabrin and after 4kms turn right at the small roundabout.

Beehive Tombs in Bat The Bat and Al Ayn Tombs date back to the third millennium BC and this site is the second to be listed as part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The 21 tombs aligned on a rocky crest are in a remarkable state of preservation. They have not been excavated and constitute an interesting archaeological reserve. These funeral tombs are notable because they represent the legacy of human settlements dating back to the Bronze Age. These stone structures, shaped in the form of a beehive, are believed to be constructed between the 2000 BC to 3000 BC epoch, during the Hafit and Umm an Nar period. The entire hilltop around Bat has these tombs and it is believed that they were built to protect the remains of around 200 people.

May 2010

• Snacks for the trek and sandwiches for when you get back. • At least 1.5L of water • Hat • Sunscreen • Swimwear

• Closed shoes or boots, not flip-flops • Towel (although it is not compulsory as the sun will dry you off in no time)

IN SEARCH OF

Meat in a roll Very few people can stay in Oman and say that they haven’t had a shawarma. We go around Muscat in search of the best one

Abu Nawaf shawarma shop in Turkey

definitive and immaculate shawarma is a wrap of shaved meat or poultry stuffed in a pita bread or khubus (Lebanese bread), smeared with dressings and with a few vegetables. Dressings include tahini, hummus and amba sauce (pickled mango with chilbeh).The wrap is sometimes toasted. Also known as a doner kebab or gyros elsewhere, its origin lies in Turkey and the word shawarma comes from the Turkish word ‘cevirme’ meaning turning. Often served with french fries and pickled vegetables, it truly is a staple fast food across the Middle East and North Africa. Traditionally cooked with a wood fire, the

process involves placing marinated meat or poultry and fat on a large skewer with a tomato, orange or onion at the top of the stack for flavouring. The meat is slowroasted as the spit rotates in front of a flame. The meat is then shaved off after cooking. The bread is usually dipped in fat and seared, then filled and served with garlic mayonnaise, pomegranate concentrate, or skhug (a hot chili sauce).

decision, a tough gh ts u o Th awarma join VERDICT: umerous sh a n a, e sh th u g o R in l consider er is a A n in w e th . , et re scat Ruwi highst around Mu arma shop in modest shaw

WORLDÕ S MOST EXCLUSIVE RESTAURANT

El Bulli

l Bulli is a Michelin 3-star Spanish restaurant run by Chef Ferran Adrià. His avant-garde eatery overlooks the Cala Montjoi bay, in Roses on the Costa Brava in Catalonia, Spain. El Bulli has been judged as number one on the Top 50 list of the world’s best restaurants a record five times. Recently Ferran has announced that he is taking a two year hiatus and making his restaurant a foundation. The revolutionary dishes, to name some, are Melon with Ham, Pine nut Marshmallows, Rock Mussels with Seaweed and Fresh herbs, Steamed Brioche with Rose-scented Mozzarella, Apple or Mango Caviar and Passion Fruit Trees. What makes Ferran, the king of molecular gastronomy is his ability to recreate sight and texture totally unlike its ingredients. Patrons repeatedly visited his restaurant expecting the unexpected.

3,000 Number of people who were on the waiting list when the news of closing came out

El Bulli restaurant entrance and Chef Ferran Adrià

42 Number of chefs the restaurant employs 27 Seconds it takes to realize that the “olive” in front of you is a spherical liquid olive 2,000,000 Number of reservation requests made each year 1 Second for you to realize that its more delicious than any olive 8,000 Number of dinners El Bulli serves each season you have ever eaten 35 Number of courses in the $320 tasting menu 6 Hours of an average dinner at El Bulli (with time for several breaks on the terrace) 7 Number of months ahead you should email to score a coveted table bon voyage

LIVING IT

On top of the

World An area enriched with arrant beauty and ample scope for adventure and fun, Hyesha Barrett achieves her Himalayan high 5,000 metres above sea level

igh altitude trekking is not for the faint-hearted, and especially not the comfort seeker. It is a full-on endurance of the body and mind, which can leave even the most physically adept among us gasping for breath. A good fitness level, the right equipment mixed in with the will power to overcome the lengthy feat are the ingredients required to conquer such an arduous challenge. Reaping more than just a physical benefit, the inevitable calories lost are a bonus in comparison to the elated feeling of accomplishment one gains after reaching camp, a day closer to the final destination. Trekking is very personal; to me it is a form of escape: from work, from my comfort zone, even from myself. It is also a form of discovery: of a new locale, a different culture, a fresh me. Some view it as a lonesome activity, stuck for hours on end plodding along one foot after another, but amazingly this is when you get ‘into the zone’ and the body’s rhythmic movement opens up the creative mind to the ever-changing landscape and either swirls with a thousand thoughts or remains a complete blank. Both ways your senses get blown away.

May 2010

My brother Glyn, also a keen and avid trekker, joined me on this weeklong Himalayan getaway. Having left the details for him to take charge of - I have since fully regretted not bringing thermals to battle the sub zero temperatures!- we met in New Delhi airport and boarded a Jet Airways flight north bound, destination Leh, Ladakh region. The hair-raising two-hour flight revealed the dramatic expanse of the Himalayas, straddling four main ranges: the great Himalayan, Zanskar, Ladakh and the Karakoram. This is the highest inhabited region in India and the River Indus with its tributaries, slice their way through the ranges. Our breath translated into a stream of ivory smoke as it hit the cold air, while we zipped up our duffel coats and grabbed our bags from the smallest conveyor belt in the world – it could only hold ten rucksacks. A short hop in a crammed tut-tut taxi brought us to down town Leh, a quaint familiar town filled with like-minded trekkers, narrow cobble-stoned streets overflowing with camping and souvenir shops, delicious wafting bakeries sided with dimly lit cozy restaurants, all these surrounded by convivial guesthouses. Each and every individual roaming this remote village shared something in common: to trek the highest mountain range in the world. How exciting!

bon voyage

LIVING IT

After ample research around town accommodating the trek to fit our travel dates, we opted for the Nubra Valley visit plus a five-day expedition from Lake Tso kar to Lake Tsomoriri. Incredibly, this area of the world is closed off from November till May, as this region is covered in thick snow where even the locals find it unbearable at times, sometimes going months without a hot shower.

Nubra Valley

From Leh, a rugged serpentine mountainous road runs north over Khardungla, the highest motorable pass in the world at 5,600m. Even during the summer, the crossing is crusted in permafrost and the Border Roads Organisation faces an ongoing battle to keep the pass open through autumn and winter. Beyond the frosty pass lays the wide, flat Nubra Valley (the ‘valley of flowers’), crisscrossed by the meandering channels of the Shyok and Nubra Rivers. The extensive valley seemed parched and dry in certain areas but this is prime farming land by Ladakhi standards. Farmers grow apricots, wheat and barley and harvest the orange berries of the tsestalulu (sea buckthorn bush) - a thorny shrub that the villagers use for fuel and for fencing their fields. Dotted around the endless winding coulee lie ancient gompas (monasteries) and ruined palaces, rendering this part of the world remote, isolated and desolate; yet with overwhelming dramatic and staggering scenery. After a night’s stay in ‘Karma Inn’, a charming guesthouse run by a gregarious Nepali family, we awoke early to clamber atop the double-humped Bactrian camels these beasts a lot stouter, hairier and smellier than the ubiquitous Omani camels found in the sultanate - which in the old days were used as pack animals on the Central Asian trade routes. These days they are bred for transport purposes around Nubra. Swaying from side to side, ensconced between the two shaggy bulging humps, we breathed in the awe-smacking landscape that blended from white sandy dunes sliced with ice cold flowing rivers surging down from a glacial height, surrounded by thick poplar forest sprouting out wild roses through a purple tinge of hundreds of lavender flowers; as a backdrop prodigious snow-capped mountains, reaching up to the clear blue sky. Unfortunately, our tight schedule forced us off our four-legged friend into a four-

May 2010

wheeled vehicle, en route to trek some of the remotest landscapes of the world. Tickled by the various road signs strewn along the narrow winding roads such as “Much whisky, driving risky”, “Run on horsepower not rum power” and “Let your insurance policy mature before you”, we could tell our driver could not read a word of English, as he persisted to bomb his way to our next destination.

Lake to Lake

Eight hours into the drive, after successfully creeping over the icy mountain pass, recently inundated with excessive snowfall, we reached Lake Tsora at 4,495m, as the sun was setting over the amorous horizon. Thrilled to be the only trekkers accompanied by our guide Tlor, Tsitsi our cook, seven ponies - the heroes of the trip bearing all our camping equipment - and Ali the donkey, who would remind us of his existence at the most obscure hours of the night, we feasted on a hearty dinner of noodles, yak meat and momos (Tibetan dumplings), before snuggling up into our sleeping bags anticipating the break of dawn. What seemed like a brief nap later, Tlor unzipped the tent and handed us a steaming sweet milky tea in bed – more appropriately tent – as wandering ponies munched on turf beneath the glistening 6am sun. After a nifty campsite clean up and filling our stomachs with stodgy porridge, nuts and honey, we were prepped for Day One of our journey. Lake Tso kar, which was a mere mirage three hours earlier at camp, gradually turned into a glistening salt lake of rainbow hues and colours surrounded by scurrying marmots and braying wild asses (Tibetan donkeys). A gruelling yet rewarding uphill eight-hour trek via the Orlongkongkar pass at 4,900m landed us in Rachunkaru at 4,668m. Such a remote area of the world, with Nepal to the North-East, Pakistan to the West and China to the North, its crazy to think we’re still in India as mammoth sized yaks, resembling extras to a Star Wars movie grazed the expansive lands before us. Tibetan nomads roam this region migrating with their herds of cattle, goats and horses. We met Dongka, a young well-spoken teenager who left her nomadic life years back to fulfill her dream as a nurse down south in Karnataka. It had been two years since she returned to visit her family and although proud of her roots, is unable to follow suit bon voyage

LIVING IT

and mentions, as she passes around her home made balls of sour yak cheese and churned milk, that this will be the last time she will return. Such harsh conditions to bear even for those born into this life. Dongka is one of the lucky ones however, with sufficient determination and financial aid to procure a degree, but alas, many of the nomads we encountered live their entire life on the barest minimum. Truly a humbling experience, as these people remain to date, some of the happiest souls I have ever met in my life. We arrived at our second campsite, revived and eager to rest our sore feet before scoffing down a hot meal and plenty of fluids, the setting sun sending jutting chills under our skin. Two pairs of trousers, five tops, three pairs of socks, thick gloves and four sleeping bags later, we were ready to call it a night, at 6pm! Our body clocks adjusted to natures calling as we started to acclimatise to the nomadic way of life, working, or in this case walking as dawn broke and pitching camp as twilight peaked. As the early morning sunshine penetrated our tent, we peeled off each layer of clothing one by one, the outer layer crisp with a thin layer of sleet. Morning tea in sleeping bag followed by breakfast, a brush of the teeth before tying up the hiking boots and off we trotted. Seven victorious hours later, we reached Gamabarma at 5,200m after passing over the Kayamurula pass at 5,410m. The dizzying AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) eventually softened as our bodies grew accustomed to the thin air and our pupils dilated absorbing the ever-changing landscapes. The delicate air of this Himalayan retreat, mixed in with a wind chill of -20ºC render the heat of the sun even more intense than at lower altitudes. They say only in Ladakh can a person suffer from sunstroke and frostbite at the same time - and I was one of those unfortunate people. Fully covered apart

May 2010

from the areas of our faces that were not shaded by our sunglasses, we reached camp the third night puffy faced, sore and raw. Trying to dismiss the sting on our tender visages, we slathered on thick cream at every break, but our cracked skin soaked up the moisture quicker than a sponge does water. Such a warped feeling, being fully layered resembling the Michelin man, sweat beads rolling down our brow, yet bodies quivering

We would have done an Eskimo proud with the amount of clothing we packed on as the hostile, wintry wind whipped us unabatedly. Albeit a bit daunting, this experience was life-changing as it made us confront places we had never been to before. As the last rays of sunshine dissipated, we crawled into our tents and wrapped up with all the heat generating items available. We would have done an Eskimo proud with the amount of clothing we packed on. Incredibly, Tlor and Tsitsi, habituated to the arctic

temperatures braved it and slept outside with a braying Ali as their companion. As the gradual orange hues crept over the horizon revealing the first light of day, I escaped from our bitterly cold box, crouched down to gather some river water with an attempt to soothe the pain brought on from the previous day, only to be greeted with a crunchy solidified mass of ice. Gamabarma, the highest and coldest campsite to date of my trekking experiences, still sends shivers down my spine. I can however optimistically say I have now seen a raw egg suffer both extremes, in this case freezing in its shell at -15ºC and the other extreme sizzling on a car bonnet in Oman, at 50+ºC. Both extremes are undoubtedly harsh but still surprisingly bearable. The last day brought us to Lake Tsmoriri via the Yarlangyurgula pass after a lingering nine-hour trek. The breathtaking bird’s eye view of the gorgeous lake at 4,500m from the pass at 5,440m was an unforgettable experience. The Zanskar range transformed into bare rolling many-hued hills divided by open high altitude valleys scoured by dust devils. It is a landscape unlike any other in Ladakh – also a rarity for the whole of India. The final destination just a few hours away, we all let out a breath of relief at the prospect

of removing our thick socks and soothing our joints under a hot shower. With a spring in our step, albeit elated to have completed the feat, mind and body revving with excitement, our joy took a turn for the worse as the final campsite grew closer: horseshoe prints turned into muddy car tracks, untouched greenery into scrubs snagged by rubbish and serene silence into a loud cacophony of noisy tourists. Reality hit as our little solitary bubble, which was accompanied to the bells dangling off the poniesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; necks, turned into a commercial touristic hub. Not ready to succumb just yet, we rapidly spun an 180Âş turn and laid down next to a stream to breathe in a last peaceful stare of the mountain we just descended, before joining the rest of the crew at camp. Our last night was ice-free, the first in many where we knew we would not wake up body stiff from the cold, and chitchatted exchanging stories with fellow trekkers who joined us from other mountain passes. The following morning after a visit to Tsomoriri, a gorgeous flat, glistening lake yet downsized in comparison to its counterpart Tso kar, we curdled up into our eight-hour car ride back to Leh stopping off at the stunning Thiksay Monastery before heading back to town, relaxed, exhausted, a few kilos lighter yet thrilled to have experienced such charismatic and timeless beauty. Relieved, refreshed and reinvigorated, we arrived back to Leh fully energised and overrun with positive thinking. These are the reasons why trekking is so beneficial for the body, mind and soul as you will come away having learnt something about yourself. It is usually when you are out of your comfort zone and pushing your limits, when you really start to feel alive.

Thiksay Monastery Thiksay Gompa, a 12-storey Buddhist monastery situated 18kms east of Leh, located at 3,600m overlooking the Indus Valley, is renowned as the most beautiful monastery in the Ladakh region. Its architecture is noted for its resemblance to the famous Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet and is the largest gompa in central Ladakh. It contains a 15m high statue of Maitreya - the largest statue in Ladakh, which covers two storeys of the building. The monastery also has a rich collection of numerous valuable artifacts and ancient relics.

bon voyage

GET PLANNING

travel BRIEF Fact Files

Area of Ladakh: 45,110 Square kms Altitude Range: 2,500m to 5,600m Temperature - Summer: -3 to 35ยบC Winter: -20ยบC and below in the higher reaches to 15ยบC. It is due to these severe winter temperatures that the tourism season in this area is so short. Population: 1,17 million Attractions: Trekking, mountaineering, camping, white water rafting, visiting Buddhist gompas (monasteries) Best time to visit: June to September Clothing - Summer: Light woollens Winter: Heavy woollens or thermals and wind proof attire. Leh town is filled with camping stores where you can buy all the equipment necessary for your stay.

When to go

Ladakh is a very isolated area in the Himalayas and can be extremely cold during the winter. Deep snow renders many mountain passes and valleys impassable, so summer is the best bet. May till August is the ideal window for a comfortable visit to the mountainous region. May and June, when the rest of the country is boiling, is an especially good time. When torrential rains inundate most of North India in July and August, Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh make for great escapes, as the mountains usually hold back the monsoons. From June to September, Ladakh as well as the nearby areas experience warm and sunny days (with temperatures around 20-30ยบC) with delightful, fresh nights. For trekking, the peak season consists of the months of July and August. Around this time only, the passes on the Manali-Leh highway and the Srinagar-Leh highway become motorable and the tourists start filtering in. The winter season is not ideal for travel to Leh as the temperature in Ladakh falls to sub zero temperatures and the weather is quite bitter and harsh. Also, because of heavy snowfall, the roads become unmotorable during winters.

Access

By Air: Leh is the main airport in the

May 2010

Ladakh region and is situated 8kms from the city center. Direct flights link Leh to New Delhi, Chandigarh, Srinagar and Jammu. For Kargil, Suru and the Zanskar valleys, Srinagar and Leh airports are both convenient. Jet Airways also operates services between Jammu, New Delhi and Srinagar (Sundays only). Indian Airlines www.indian-airlines.nic. in operates regular flights to Leh from New Delhi (fare USD135), four flights in a week from Jammu, once in a week from Chandigarh and twice from Srinagar. Jet Airways www.jetairways.com also operates

daily flights between Leh-Delhi (fare USD143). By Rail: The nearest station is Jammu, 620kms from Leh. Jammu is connected to all parts of India through express trains. By Road: The 434kms Srinagar-Leh road is the main route. The road is open between mid June and November. The most dramatic part of this road journey is the ascent up the 3,505m high Zoji-la. The J&K State Road Transport Corporation operates regular deluxe and ordinary bus services between Srinagar and Leh on this route with an overnight stay in Kargil. Taxis, cars and jeeps

can also be hired in Srinagar for this trip. Road communication between Srinagar and Leh is closed between October and May. Recently, the 473kms Manali-Leh road has been serving as the second land approach to Ladakh. This highway is a spectacular journey with an overnight stay at tented camps in Sarchu or Pang. The road is open from mid-July to mid-October every year, depending on weather conditions and this journey can be done by deluxe or ordinary bus services or by jeep from either Manali or Leh. Kargil - On the main highway between Srinagar and Leh, the road from Kargil into the Suru and Zanskar valleys is open only between July and October. Any group wishing to go to Leh, Kargil or Padum can charter deluxe buses at Srinagar.

Road Distances

Delhi-Leh: 1047kms Kargil-Padum (Zanskar): 240kms Leh-Deskit (Nubra Valley): 118kms Leh-Kargil: 234kms Manali-Leh: 473kms Srinagar-Kargil: 204kms Srinagar-Leh: 434kms

Travelling In Ladakh

Travelling by regular bus services along the regular routes and on fixed schedules is the best way of getting around the area. More comfortable and convenient are the taxis, which are available on a fixed tariff. For off the beaten track trips to the newly opened areas of Nubra, Changthang and DahHanu, it is mandatory to use the services of a recognised travel agency to make all the arrangements for the trip, including transport and overnight stays. All details of bus schedules, taxis and travel agencies can be found at the tourist offices.

Things to see and do

This region abounds in beauty and visiting this area promises lots of adventure for every visitor. There are beautiful sights to be seen and birds are plentiful for the bird watching fanatics. Mountaineering, trekking and mountain biking the stunning mountain landscapes are a must in this region. For

those who enjoy water sports there is also kayaking and white water rafting available. Jungle safaris, bungee jumping and paragliding are also popular in this area.

Food and drink

Variety is characteristic of Ladakhi cuisine where dishes are a mix and match of Chinese, Korean, Continental and Tibetan, all cooked with a mixture of aromatic spices. ‘Kahava’ is a tea made with special spices and is commonly drunk in this area. In Ladakh, there is a distinct agricultural economy and many of the local people grow their own vegetables. Chicken and mutton are the most commonly consumed meat and various vegetables such as pumpkins, beetroots, potatoes and beans are prepared to accompany different meat dishes. The favourite dishes served in this area are ‘Thukpa’, a thick white soup with noodles and vegetables and ‘Momos’, dumplings stuffed with meat or vegetables, which are steamed and served with a chili sauce. Dried fruit and nuts (walnuts and almonds) are usually cooked with the food adding a lovely aroma and flavour.

Medication

It is advisable for you to visit your doctor before setting out on your holiday to get all the necessary vaccinations. Certain medications such as cold and flu medicine, aspirin and diarrhoea tablets may not be as easily available, so make sure you have stocked up on your frequently used over the counter medications. Pack a small first aid kit and antiseptic cream to disinfect cuts and burns.

Water purity

There is an issue regarding the drinking water in India so always buy bottled water ensuring the seal of the cap has not been tampered with. Any other water must be boiled beforehand or purified with tablets. Still-standing water should be avoided as it is a possible breeding ground for insects. When embarking on a journey, always make sure to have enough water and snacks – trail mix is the best (nuts and dried fruit).

Take precaution

Ladakh is one of the safest parts in India, the most basic precautions are enough to keep you and your possessions safe. It is advisable to carry a torch at night, as there is next to no street lighting. Deep ditches and potholes are not uncommon.

Travel Tips

It is important to remember that each country has different cultural viewpoints and customs that we should always value. Try to learn as much as possible about the country you are travelling to with regards to its culture, regulations, religion, values and local rules. Here are a few pointers: – Learning a few words in the local language may prove to be helpful and will be welcomed by the locals, as well as appropriate body language and behavior. – Displays of affection in public between a woman and a man are not well tolerated and women should dress respectfully whilst travelling, avoiding revealing outfits. – Supporting the community through a clinic, school or development project may be more productive than by giving money or gifts to children and beggars in the street. – Take care of the environment by making sure not to leave any rubbish lying around. – Before taking a video or photographing people make sure they agree to this. – Dress modestly at religious sites and always ask for permission before entering a Hindu temple. Leather items are not allowed inside the temple grounds. When walking around the temple, remember to do so in a clockwise manner. – Giving and receiving with both hands is considered to be polite. – Sharing eating utensils or eating food off someone else’s plate is considered offensive, and accepting food or drink from others too quickly is impolite. – Removing your shoes before entering a home or temple is important. Remember not to point your feet at food, people or religious objects as this is considered highly offensive.

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Hanging over the ADVENTURE

Hajar Mountains Have you ever wanted to cliff hang? Or zip line from one mountain face to another? Sasha Chisholm turns fear of heights into a pure adrenalin fix...

May 2010

ngulfed in a spiralling mix of trepidation and nervous excitement, the group ventured out of Muscat at the crack of dawn, still drowsy from the lack of sleep, and headed north en route to the Hajar Mountains, home of the via ferrata. Translated from Italian to mean â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;iron roadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, this activity entails the individual to clip on to fixed cables that are dotted around a mountain face and gradually make their way from the start to the finish line unclipping and re-clipping at every safety interval. This particular via ferrata is 100metres above Wadi Bani Awf, popularly known as Snake Gorge. Although nervous about their own fitness levels, everyone reassured each other of their lack of previous climbing experience. A great thing about this sport, even a person over 60 years old can do this activity, as long as the individual has an average fitness level and is not too over weight. The ride, a couple of hours out of Muscat, took the group deep into the Hajar mountain range through stunning and dramatic scenery, crisscrossing through quaint little villages. The single windy road eventually led to an ever-deepening canyon as the excited group bounded out of the car and kitted up. Rob, the guide, conducted the usual equipment checks and after the safety briefing everyone trotted down the steep, rocky terrain to the starting point, the karabiners (d-shape ring fasteners) clanking heavily at each step. As the starting point grew closer, the loud cackles of laughter were replaced with a wave of eerie quietness. The group halted as the solid ground disappeared before them, unearthing a massive drop with only a thin line reaching across to the other side. With a mixture of confusion, fear bon voyage

ADVENTURE

and anticipation, the group took it in turns to clip their karabiners to the two safety lines, which in turn were attached to the wire cables bolted into the rock face. Once the nerves subsided, the group soon got into a steady rhythm, traversing The Snake Canyon Via Ferrata is definitely up there in the Top 100 ‘things to do before I die’ list. The adrenalin rush is on a par with skydiving or a bungee jump – the difference being that you don’t simply jump, it’s a slower, much more controlled challenge where mentally and physically you have to sustain yourself for hours. While it is suitable for the nonexperienced, all participants must have good fitness levels and be able to do at

the mountain face, unclipping one safety karabiner at a time to pass over the bolted wires as shrills of excitement could be heard echoing throughout the valley. The slacked wire eventually tightened up and stretched straight across the canyon to another rock least 20 press-ups and be able to carry their own body weight over sustained periods of time. It is at the guides’ discretion whether you participate. All training and equipment is provided. Ensure you should wear trainers and loose, comfortable clothing that you don’t mind getting ripped or scuffed on the sharp rocks. Some energy bars and a liquid container such as a ‘camel bak’ carrying 2L of water or a mix of isotonic is essential.

face 20m away, suspended 100m in the air. Excited and bordering on hysteria, the group took it in turn to clip on to the pulley and work their way across to the other side. Who knew zip lining was so much fun. For the most part dangling high with the cool breeze accompanying the vast, silent mountains was simply spectacular. This particular via ferrata is a series of high wires around a one km circuit that involves ‘assisted climbing’, incorporated with a combination of horizontal traversing, where one must use one’s own body strength – this is an incredible and exhausting upper body work out – and moreover determination to pull you that next step further. Although the record for finishing this task has been less that 40 minutes, for most people it will take around 2.5hrs; and for those gifted in the height department this sport is certainly less demanding, as your reach will enable your hands and feet to find more holds on the circuit. Fatigued and worn out with the circuit nearly over, one last feat lay ahead: a 20m long monkey bridge, which unlike the previous four high wires where the group would zip line along, this one had two parallel wires around 1,5m apart from each other: the system entailed holding onto one wire while simultaneously traversing across the other. The trick is to keep ones body taut and rigid to ensure against the ‘wobble board’ effect, which could take place between one’s arms, legs and the wires. With steady sight on the terra firma ahead, everyone managed superbly, albeit accompanied by a few shrieks of panic. Although scared stiff with the strong desire to make a U-turn on several occasions, the grand sense of achievement outplayed the groups’ dread and exhaustion. Still floating above ground the following days after and despite the muscle aches in places they didn’t even know existed, the elated feeling of accomplishment lasted for weeks. Not an activity for the faint-hearted, this sport is however truly recommended to confront ones fear. Although hair-raising in some places, rest assured it is completely safe, where people of all age groups with good fitness levels mixed in with pure determination will allow one to accomplish this enthralling feat. To book contact: Muscat Diving & Adventure Centre, Tel. 24 485 663 www.holiday-in-oman.com

May 2010

ANIMAL KINGDOM

Poison dart frog

elonging to the Dendrobatidae family, there are over 100 species of poison dart frogs, all varying in pattern and colour. Also known as poison arrow frogs, they are generally found in the humid, tropical rainforests of South and Central America. Their name is derived from some Native American tribes who apply the frogsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; toxins to the tips of their hunting arrows. Theses toxins are generated from glands located on the amphibians back and around their ears. Small in size and intensely bright in colour, these frogs are extremely poisonous and their colours are related to their high levels of alkaloids and toxicity. The bright colours and patterns warn potential predators of their venom, except for some snake species such as the Leimadophis epinephelus (pictured), which are immune to their poison. Interestingly, these frogs get the poison from the prey that they eat, which in turn get the poison from their diet. When they are held in captivity they are apparently not poisonous. The poison dart frog mostly feeds on insects, small arthropods and spiders, making use of its outstanding vision and capturing the prey with its long sticky tongue.

These frogs lay their eggs in moist places such as exposed roots, on leaves and in plants. After approximately a two-week development cycle when the eggs have hatched, the tadpoles wriggle onto their parentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; backs, sticking to the mucus, and they are then carried to water where they remain for three months until the metamorphosis stage. Some species take the tadpoles to ponds or hide them under leaves on the forest ground, while others take them high up into the trees and deposit their young in the water gathered in certain plant crevices. These frogs are sometimes less than one and a half centimetres in length when they are fully grown, although some can grow up to six centimetres, and they weigh around two grams depending on their size. The Dendrobatidae family holds some of the most poisonous creatures in the world. The golden poison dart frog can

kill ten grown men with the venom it contains. Its poison, batrachotoxin, is a steroidal alkaloid which blocks neuromuscular transmission, which results in respiratory and muscle paralysis. Only the tiny amount of poison equivalent to the weight of two or three grains of table salt is needed to kill a 68kg human. Poison dart frogs do not only play a vital role in the control of various pests in the ecosystem, but also hold promising contributions in the medical world as research is being done in an attempt to find possible medicinal uses from its venom. There are certain medicines already used during surgery that are created on the basis of batrachotoxin. It has also been found that this toxin does not block the nervous system instantly, but actually makes the heart muscle beat stronger at first but ultimately results in death. The National Institute of Health claims that the poison dart frog contains over 300 alkaloid chemicals which can be used for medicinal reasons.

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ECO PROPERTY

Eco-friendly lodges Lise Tyrrell of Eco Tropical Resorts offers us a look into Belizeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eco-friendly lodges

Macaw Jungle Lodge

Casa del Caballo Blanco

May 2010

elize, formerly known as the British Honduras, is a small jewel of a country located on the Caribbean coast of northern Central America. It is known for its biodiversity, Mayan ruins and has the second longest Barrier Reef perched off its coast. The official language is English and the native people are very warm and welcoming. This jewel is an ideal place to vacation alone or with your family. In western Belize, close to the border of Guatemala, lies the town of San Ignacio. This town is a big attraction for tourists because of its Mayan ruins, national parks and botanical gardens. Nestled outside of town are three unique eco lodges: Casa del Caballo Blanco eco lodge is small with only five well-appointed rooms. Situated just 3kms out of town, this eco lodge holds high significance as all the proceeds go to support the Casa Avian Support Alliance. Their main goal is to rehabilitate and release local wild birds and educate people about the conservation of biodiversity. Guests and volunteers are invited to help with the conservation and to raise funds for the birds: this is such a wonderful bonding experience for all ages. This eco lodge scored 4.6 out of 5 on their Eco Rating. Macaw Jungle Lodge is another small eco lodge with just 5 rooms. They are located 10kms away from San Ignacio town located on 50 natural acres in the Macal River Valley. There are many river, outdoor and adventure activities available for guests to enjoy. This eco lodge is in close proximity to Caracol, Xunantunich, Ejilio Panti

Chaa Creek

National Park and the Belize Botanical Gardens, all of which offer wonderful educational opportunities for young and old alike. This eco lodge scored 4 out of 5 on their Eco Rating. The Lodge at Chaa Creek is set on 365 acres and is the biggest out of these three eco lodges. Located around 12kms from San Ignacio town set right on the banks of the Macal River, this eco lodge offers a special summer camp for kids called Eco Kids Rainforest Adventure Chaa Creek Summer Camp. It runs from July 18-24, 2010 and is for children aged seven through to 15. The program educates children about biodiversity, natural resource conservation, the ancient Maya, traditional healing, and the three "R's" of sustainability: Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. They scored 4.6 out of 5 on their Eco Rating. For more information about the Eco Rating system go to: http://www.ecotropicalresorts.com/TheButterflyClub/ butterflyclub.html

Chaa Creek bon voyage

EVENTS

Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 7th Travel Mart The sultanateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier travel and tourism show will be held at the Oman International Exhibition Centre in Muscat from the 17th to 19th May 2010. It has grown to be Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost international travel fair and continuously attracts trade, corporate and travel officials from across the globe, as well as potential tourists and travellers within the country.

May 2010

he annual OTM provides a firstclass opportunity for organisations in Oman and abroad to develop new partnerships, to launch and promote their travel related products, services and the wide range of sought-after travel destinations offered by them. OTM will host concepts such as outbound and inbound tourism, tourism investment and properties, medical and health tourism, leisure and incentive tourism and travel technologies and solutions. Also present

will be tourism sectors comprising sport and adventure, education and leisure, ecological and green, travel and insurance banking services, hotels and resorts, ferries and boat services, airlines, transport services and tour operators. Visitors will be given the chance to get up to date with the latest trends in the travel and tourism sectors, explore different vacation destinations and the various packages on offer. Visitors will be able to talk with travel

operators and personnel promoting tourism and travel and get the best services and offers available. Detailed information and professional advice on money and time saving tips for travelling will also be made available to guests. A one-day â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tourism Development and Management Conferenceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; will also be held this year alongside the OTM on May 18th for industry professionals to discuss various challenges, identify necessary developments and examine a variety of responses concerning suitable business planning and management techniques. This annual trade show will lure in senior level executives and decision makers from the tourism and travel sectors including government officials, corporate officials and representatives of travel and tourism agencies, directors, deputy directors, general managers and managers. It will also

draw in entrepreneurs, investors, travel and tourism experts and consultants, as well as the media. A few of the interesting topics that will be covered in this conference will be: Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision for tourism in 2010, the growing importance of tourism in the national economy, the impact of technology in tourism, eco-tourism and sustainable practices in developing the tourism industry. Participants will be involved in stimulating discussions and will be provided with practical ideas from international and regional tourism experts and professionals. Oman Air is the proud main sponsor of the OTM with Munich Tourism Promotion Board as the lead sponsor and Egyptian Tourist Authority as the platinum sponsor. If you would like updates on OTM, log on to www.otm.travel

bon voyage

OMAN DIVING

Delve into the deep blue Our resident dive centre gives us a sneak peek at the sultanate’s underwater beauty with an overview of what lies ahead. Introducing Amphibia

n 2008, a passionate experienced team of diving instructors joined forces to create what is now one of the leading dive centres around town. Its vision was to create a centre which incorporated their shared passion and expertise of the sea, with the aim to not solely certify customers, but essentially render the whole diving experience memorable. The objective is to entice divers to spread the word and return back for more. Amphibia’s friendly

May 2010

and motivated team will guarantee you an enriching treat, from choosing your freshly made sandwich to listening to beats aboard the boat and exploring the unique, pristine marine life our seas have to offer. Located in the gardens of the Intercontinental Hotel, the easiest access to this five-star PADI resort is via the path parallel to the beach. After obtaining your equipment, you will embark on a short ride to the Marina to board ‘The Argo’, Amphibia’s 11-metre custom made boat which has just undergone a huge make over and is eager to cruise to the next destination. Each dive is unique and every month you will be treated to different dive destinations along the Muscat coast, to name a few: the coral bommies off Bhander Jussah, the caves and drop offs at Fahal Island, the eerie

Al Munissar ship wreck and the unspoilt beauty of the Daymaniyat Islands, Oman’s stunning nature reserve. The sultanate’s azure waters are a beauty to cruise on where we are fortunate to have cetaceans frequent our surfaces daily: Amphibia also provides early morning dolphin and whale watching trips. The most commonly encountered species are spinner dolphins, which constantly amaze with their spectacular spinning leaps. More than often, there are days when the boat is surrounded by hundreds of dolphins, including longnosed dolphins that are ubiquitous to our seas, all searching for the schools of fish which migrate up and down the coast. Also encountered, but not as often as we would like are Bryde’s Whales, Humpback Whales, Risso’s Dolphins, Bottlenose Dolphins, False

Killer Whales and the occasional Killer Whale group. The water surfaces are definitely fascinating, but nothing beats delving into the deep blue where you can experience first hand the kaleidoscope of corals, variety of fish, rays, mantis shrimps, nudibranchs and a number of sharks such as the leopard or black tip. On a lucky day you might encounter sea horses, pilot whales and even our harmless giants of the sea: the majestic whale sharks.

Amphibia is a young, dynamic team ready to add a fun twist to your dive and will gain pleasure in assisting you climb the ladder all the way to dive master level. Each issue we will give you insight into the PADI Dive master program, where we will follow the trials and tribulations, stresses and personal growth of a novice until professional level. Monthly exposĂŠs from our student divers will also be featured, where you will gain insight into what it is like to do a PADI Open water or Advanced Open water course with us.

With endless discoveries unfolding above and below the surface, Amphibia is always keeping their eyes peeled for the next adventure. This weightless activity is so interesting as you will never experience the same dive twice. This is the mystery of the deep blue and you are in complete luck that our Omani sea is full of breathtaking marine beauty mixed in with bright and colourful energy. So what are you waiting for? Come get kitted up and start exploring with us today.

bon voyage

OUTBOUND

Mesmerising Capri A resort since the time of the Roman Republic, Capri is considered among the most romantic destinations of the world. Visited over centuries by artists, writers and intellectuals enthralled by its beauty, it has a legend of its own. Terry Mathukutty travels to Capri

May 2010

bon voyage

OUTBOUND

n island on the south side of the Gulf of Naples, in the Campania region of southern Italy, Capri has two harbours Marina Piccola and Marina Grande. Capri is the main populated centre. The separate commune of Anacapri is located high on the hills to the west. The long awaited day had come when we were to visit Capri. Staying on the coast in Sorrento meant we had to go the harbour to board the hydrofoil. The Bay of Naples boasts some of the most attractive coastlines in the world. The sheer beauty of Italy was only being proved day after day in the country. The hydrofoil was the fastest means to reach the island. We had come ashore at Marina Piccola. Upon reaching the island we moved on with our guide towards the Villa San Michele. Climbing up through pathways, it was easy to see why people fall in love with Capri. Dotted with shops selling sandals, limoncello, different types of salami and

restaurants with heart stopping views, the place was like paradise. The Villa, located on the north-eastern side of Anacapri was actually an ancient Roman imperial villa, its ruins preserved by Axel Munthe. The architect of the place was Munthe himself. The presence of the ruins in the gardens served to enhance the beauty of the landscape. Munthe lived in San Michele from 1896-1910. These are the moments when we realise the significance of an excellent guide as the story of San Michele still lives on in our memory. The architecture and collection were reflective of Munthe as a romantic. Some of Muntheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s notable collections are the head of Medusa which he had found lying in the sea, the Tavolo Cosmatesco which is a table built following the style of the Cosmati (i.e. Roman marble workers, decorators and architects), the marble bust of Emperor Tiberius and the Egyptian sphinx. The garden is abundant with plants from various latitudes apart from the Mediterrean region. From the colonnade there is an

Marina Grande

May 2010

Tavolo Cosmatesco

extraordinary view of the Gulf of Naples which should not be missed at any cost. The azure sea was dotted with yachts, boats and cruise ships of various shapes and sizes. It was said that at any point of time there were more tourists than actual residents on the island. The highest place on the island was Mount Solaro. It was reachable by foot or by chairlift. Opting for the chairlift was a wise decision when we saw the ascend of almost 600m above sea level. On the chairlift, the splendid view of Anacapri and the Bay of Naples was once again revisited. The vast panoramic view was definitely the undisputed protagonist of this place. One could see gigantic limestone masses called Sea Stacks that stand out of the sea - the Faraglioni. The smooth route back to Anacapri allows a visit to Cetrella, where one can admire the lonely church of San Maria. We hurried back to catch some lunch at a restaurant with a great view, which was teeming with people and clearly Italians loved food. After lunch we headed to board the boats to see the famous Grotto Azzura. The blue grotto is one of the most beautiful sea caves in the world. After reaching a particular place on the coast by boat, we then boarded a dingy boat to venture into the cave. The only entrance of the grotto was a small passageway with a ceiling so low that we had to lie down in the boat to get through. The gondolier waited for the lowest between two waves to enter the cave, and then dragged the rope along the wall. It is well worth the trouble - once inside a magnificent geological spectacle unfolds in the shape of a large oval-shaped cave that shimmers in a stunning surreal silver-blue light. In the second undersea entrance, daylight shines onto the white sands at the foot of the cave and is then reflected up as pure blue light. The water absorbs all the other wavelengths except blue. Along with decades of tourists, the Romans, who proclaimed it a place of worship for Emperor Tiberius, also revered it. Adorned on the walls of the caves were statues, including some of Neptune and Triton that were discovered on the seabed.

Marina Piccola

Chairlift to Mount Solaro

Grotto Azzura

bon voyage

TRAVEL GUIDE

travel GUIDE Weather

High season officially begins May 1st and ends September 30th. The weather is beautiful in May, June and September, and you might prefer to come during this period if you want to avoid the crowds of tourists who arrive on the island in the warmest months of July and August. For nature lovers, the flora and fauna are at their most beautiful in late March and throughout April. Winter in Capri has a special charm.

Places of interest Marina Piccola (Small Harbor), Arco Naturale and Pizzolungothe Belvedere of Tragara, Sea Stacks (the Faraglioni), Anacapri, the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), and the ruins of the Imperial Roman villas. Given that the island is no longer flooded with visitors, those who choose to travel off-season will have the opportunity to get to know the people and the island, at their most authentic. During low season you can also take advantage of the substantially reduced prices. Local products: Sandals, Perfumes, Limoncello

Getting there

Depart from the Port of Molo Beverello in Naples. The trip takes around 80 minutes by Ferry (9EUR) or 40 minutes by hydrofoil (16EUR). Depart from the Sorrento. The trip take around 40 minutes by Ferry (9EUR) or 20 minutes by hydrofoil (12EUR). If you’re not on a budget or are part of a large group, you may choose to get to your destination via private transportation. This service is available upon request 24-hours a day and the boats can pick you up or drop you off anywhere you choose on the island, the Bay of Naples or the Almafi Coast.

Getting around

In the busiest months of the year, from April to October, the circulation on the island of non-residents’ cars, motorbikes, and scooters is not permitted. Exceptions are made for

May 2010

Aiano Bed & Breakfast

3 stars luxury

Punta Tragara 5 stars luxury

Via Aiano di Sopra, 10

Via La Fabbrica, 9

Via Tragara, 57

80073 Capri (Napoli)

80071 Anacapri (Napoli)

80073 Capri (Napoli)

Ph. +39 081 8377878

Ph. +39 081 8382084

Ph. +39 0818370844

Cell. +39 329 1115749

Fax +39 081 8382132

Fax +39 081 8377790

aiano@capri.it

mulino@capri.it

info@hoteltragara.it

www.mulino-capri.com

www.hoteltragara.com

vehicles bearing foreign number plates and driven by the owner. Once they arrive in Marina Grande, the port of Capri, visitors can entrust their luggage to porters who will transport it from the hydrofoil or ferry along the docks to the taxi stand, hotel, or private residence of the visitor’s choice.

Funicular railway

The red funicular railway train enables visitors to reach the center of Capri in just 5 minutes, via a panoramic route over the lemon trees and vegetable gardens. Trains depart every 15 minutes or more frequently still when demand is particularly high. Tickets can be purchased at the Funicular railway ticket office in the center of Capri or in Marina Grande, to the left of the port, where all the ticket offices for the various hydrofoil and ferry companies are located.

Bus

Little orange buses travel along the routes Capri-Anacapri, Capri-Marina Piccola, CapriMarina Grande (the so called S.Costanzo line), Capri-Damecuta, Marina PiccolaAnacapri (during the summer season only), Anacapri-Grotta Azzura, and Anacapri-Faro.

Tickets can be purchased directly on board, at the Funicular railway ticket office in Marina Grande, or in Piazza Martiri d’Ungheria, close to the Piazzetta, where the bus station is situated.

Taxi

Taxi stands are located at the port, in the Piazzetta, and all the principal places where tourists gather. Passengers are advised to travel with a hat or head scarf and sunglasses. Fares are established by the taximeter.

Scooter

Scooters can be hired at the port, in Capri and Anacapri. Bikes can be rented for a few hours, for an entire day or for a few days, in which case clients can usually obtain a really good deal.

By Sea All kinds of craft are available: dinghies, traditional wooden ‘Gozzi’, motorboats and sailing boats. Tours around the island of Capri are arranged for both individuals and large groups. The classic tour lasts approximately an hour and 45 minutes and includes a stop at the Grotta Azzurra, to be accessed aboard one of the traditional rowing boats.

bon voyage

HISTORICAL OMAN

Jabrin Castle is situated near Nizwa and Bahla, south-west of Muscat in the Jabal Akhdar mountain range, Dakhiliya region. Minette Brunkhorst takes a walk through time

o get there, take the Sultan Qaboos highway passing the International Airport and turn right at the Nizwa - Salalah off-ramp. When you reach the clock tower roundabout (Burj al Sahwa), continue straight towards the Sultan Qaboos University. Follow the signs to Nizwa and at approximately 61kms from Burj al Sahwa, drive past the turn-off to Samail. At the 101kms mark, you will pass the Izki turn off. Proceed straight passing the Janar cave sign post, roughly 6kms after the Izki turn off and the Nizwa University after 19kms. Around 136kms from the roundabout, you will pass the Nizwa - Salalah turning which veers off to the right of the main road. Set your odometer to zero and drive past the turning to Taymsa 7kms away, and the Sultan Qaboos Academy for Police Services approximately 5kms after that. You will reach Jabrin town at the 32kms mark, and then come across three roundabouts. Turn right at

May 2010

the first roundabout, which will take you to the second one where you continue straight across. At this point you should be able to see the Jabrin Castle on your right. Turn right at the third roundabout to go to the entrance of the castle. Jabrin Castle has been extensively renovated and redecorated throughout the years and it was the first restoration program undertaken in Oman. It was built by the Imam Bilaírab bin Sultan al-Yaíarubi in the 1600s as a place of residence and truly is a picturesque sight. Stone blocks that were mined in the mountains nearby and assembled with plaster were used to build the castle. Bilaírab died in 1692 and his tomb, which has now been restored and renovated, can be found in the castle to the left of the main entrance. Jabrin Castle is an exceptional example of Islamic architecture, yet also resembles a defensive design and boasts sophisticated artistry. It is believed that in the 17th century, one of the first schools in Oman was established there. The sheer silence coupled with the

cool breeze circling through the open-air courtyard in the middle of the castle is magical. There are little passageways and curved stairwells leading to enchanted rooms with antique wooden doors

throughout the castle. Several rooms are small with low ceilings while others are quite the opposite. Symbols and flowers, finely painted in Persian style, and elaborate wooden inscriptions infuse the high ceilings in the living rooms. Some of the rooms are panelled with teak wood from India and others with a local wood called 'alaim'. A variety of interesting items such as old clay pots, books and shoes are on display in many of the rooms. The view from the top of the castle with the beautiful surrounding land is as breathtaking as the castle itself. You could wander around at your own pace while you envision days gone by, or have an informative tour with one of the guides at the castle. Considered one of the most stunning in Oman, a stop at Jabrin Castle is definitely worthwhile. Opening and closing times: Saturday - Thursday: 9am to 4pm Friday: 9am to 11am Entry Fee: 500 Baiza

bon voyage

ITC

Freehold properties at The Wave, Muscat

The Wave, Muscat, presents the first freehold Integrated Tourism Complex (ITC) to deliver property, where GCC nationals, Omanis and expatriates alike are able to purchase homes

urrently under construction, upon completion this 2.2million square meter development stretching out along 6kms of immaculate water and beaches, will feature a PGA standard Greg Norman signature 18-hole golf course, a 400 berth marina located in Al Marsa Village, over 4000 residential homes,

May 2010

5-Star luxury hotels, as well as leisure, retail and five-star dining facilities. The Wave has received many awards including a series of CNBC Arabian Property Awards and International CNBC Property Awards, Gold Awards for the ‘Best Real Estate’ Website, as well as a Home Overseas Award for ‘Best Luxury Development’.

In 2006, the first major construction work commenced and this included land reclamation, harbour walls and site preparation together with utilities. The golf course is expected to be fully operational in 2012, with the entire project predicted to be finished between 2016 and 2017. To date, 400 properties have been handed

over, 900 exclusive properties have been sold and 550 foundations have been laid with 20 reaching roof top level. 16 of the stunning beachfront properties have already been auctioned. Upon completion, The Wave will feature a range of different housing complexes. Madinat Majan offers garden and lakeside villas and there will be garden, marina homes and apartments in Al Marsa Village. Sinesla Island provides exclusive island living. The Wave features two and three bedroom Neem townhouses that predominantly attract young families and young professionals due to the fact that the houses are conveniently low maintenance, yet luxurious. One can enjoy the cool breeze rolling in from the ocean whilst sitting outside on the porch under the covered balconies. The one and two bedroom Luban apartments highlight European textures throughout. They offer contemporary convenience and magnificent comfort of the uppermost standards, and are located in close proximity to the leisure, shopping and dining amenities. There are a number of beach and lake front villas at The Shoreside and Ocean View, looking out over the stunning Arabian Sea and its white beaches. These luxurious villas are spacious and bright, with their own patios and private gardens, which include charming modern finishes and characteristics.

Villas at The Wave include three different types of designs. The Santini villas are characterised by superb garden views and concealed personal spaces. Open spacious areas and clean modern lines create a charming atmosphere, combining the traditional with the modern. Large glass walls distinguish the Tombazis villas from the rest, and allow the relaxing, natural outdoor atmosphere to enter the home, exposing enchanting courtyards with their surrounding gardens. Tranquil garden views in the Triad villas can be seen from almost all the rooms. They convey cultural expression and the true spirit of Oman, embracing the intrinsic setting of Muscat together with modern lifestyle. The Wave, Muscat, boasts over 6kms of lovely beachfront stretching out along the coast. Marvel at the beautiful sunrise while you walk along the white, fine sandy beach and hear the calm rolling waves breaking

on the shore. A relaxed ambiance coupled with the thrill of liveliness can be felt in the vicinity of the marina, which will be surrounded by cafés, restaurants and shops. Take a leisurely stroll along the Corniche and experience the buzzing vibes of the harbour. Developments of The Wave stress great responsibility towards the environment with particular materials and technology used to minimise the negative impact the developments may have on the environment. An eco-friendly approach has been taken such as incorporating plants accustomed to Oman’s climate to reduce water usage, environmentally friendly cooling techniques for air-conditioners as well as artificial environments created to attract wildlife. To add to the luxury, two prestigious hotels are to be constructed at The Wave. The Kempinski hotel will offer 350 rooms, spa facilities and restaurants located on the beachfront, and the Fairmont hotel will be situated next to the golf course. The Fairmont hotel will feature 300 rooms and suites, a ‘Willow Stream Spa’, meeting facilities as well as restaurants. Beautiful landscapes and fine, contemporary houses combined with apparent Middle Eastern influence are characteristic of The Wave. Houses are in close proximity to the beach and there are waterways that flow through the residential areas via pedestrian-friendly pathways. Come enjoy a true community life, together with the convenience of all the available facilities at The Wave. bon voyage

Arriba! TELL US

Brenda Roberts Costa takes us on a tour of Madrid Albeit the capital, Madrid is often overshadowed by Barcelona as Spain’s number one go to city, as it lays inland and is more business orientated compared to its counterpart. But once you get out and about, you’ll see that Madrid is quite the cultural city, full of life and fun and also holds a huge array of art galleries: to name a couple, the Prado - equivalent to the Louvre in Paris – and the Reina Sofia. The architecture in this vibrant city varies to such an extent where u can gaze at the old Post Office building on Cibeles or be awe struck by the modern four towers that greet you as you enter town. Also, being one of the few capitals in the world to feature a stadium, located

La Latina

May 2010

downtown of the Castellana, its no wonder football is a massive mainstream attraction. Another must do when visiting Madrid is to sample the local delicacies and there’s no lack of quaint little tapas bars - small bite sized snacks - dotted throughout the city, which roll out the best local dishes on offer. ‘Ir de tapas’, an ‘all you can eat’ menu is served all day long and although the dishes come in small portions, they can satisfy the appetite of the small snacker to even the heavy feaster. What makes Madrid so special and what most people do not realize, nor take advantage of, is that this city has so much to offer it can fulfill everyone’s needs. Most importantly, do not follow exactly what the travel books say, as it is always best to mingle with the friendly locals who will direct you to the most popular places around town. When you’re on

Plaza Mayor

holiday it’s always more fun to get a little lost while going off the beaten track rather than follow the bog standard every day commercial attractions that the masses willingly subject themselves to. I love my hometown as it holds no limits and caters to everyone; and just like with everything worthwhile, you need to snoop around a little to discover the mysteries and beauties that lurk beneath the surface… Or you can just regale in some of my favorite places.

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La Latina Street Music

Four Towers

Colon

El Prado

Correos

Moby Dick Espana Cani

Delic

bon voyage

SPA

Ayana Spa Come indulge in the luxury you deserve. Hyesha Barrett did and came away with more than she bargained for

rom the moment you step into Ayana, you will be whisked away to another world; amazing to think we’re in Sarooj. The calming atmosphere, soothing music, aromatic scents and the sweet smiling therapists create the perfect welcome; as your shoes are exchanged for soft slippers, and you are led to the changing rooms. The spa has a lovely layout, with a zen fountain trickling peacefully in the relaxation area and long corridors leading off to the individual treatment rooms. The sought out little details made my experience that extra bit special as scented candles adorned the ebony mantlepieces, with fresh frangipanis and other colourful flowers intricately placed, creating a little exotic paradise. Mini, my attentive, friendly and fantastic distressing masseuse led me to the Sun room, aptly named and although the wooden blinds shaded the sun’s glare, an enhanced ambient setting would have been more deserving. However, the white curtains draped over the bath and swaying off the ceiling created the perfect feeling of nostalgia, as the soft music eventually

May 2010

serenaded me into a light slumber. The treatment: Indocéane, a step-by-step complete body relaxing and replenishing two-hour ritual, which transformed my tension into replenishment. This new

treatment range draws inspiration from an array of traditional beauty regimes founded in the Mediterranean, Egypt, India and China. Mediterranean Step: The first treatment was a sweet and savory body scrub, a blend of brown sugar and salt mixed with citrus, grapefruit and mandarin essential oils aimed at relaxing and purifying the skin. As I was scrubbed down, I could feel the exfoliated skin melt off leaving my body nourished and embellished. Egyptian Step: After my nutritive scrub down I sat in a steaming soothing ‘Precious Milk Bath’ infused with Sacred lotus, a symbol of purity, known to calm the senses. Mini poured in a golden powder which churned the clear water into a rich creamy substance, a soft anti-inflammatory packed with calming and soothing properties, known to improve microcirculation. I felt like Cleopatra shimmering in her milky tub, as Mini threw in frangipanis, and my senses opened up to the floral musky scents of peach, melon, sandalwood, white musk and vanilla. By this point all the tension I had melted away as this moisturising veil left my skin velvety smooth and silky soft. Indian Steps: After the thoroughly relaxing bath, I laid back down on the massage table and Mini massaged some Qibalm cream into my pressure points: lower back, palms and souls of the feet, aimed at releasing and alleviating the body’s energy centres. By this point serenity flowed my

exotiC fruits

Jackfruit

spirit into a gentle soothing trance and as my mind started to drift, Mini trickled a blend of relaxing oils: sandalwood, cedar and patchouli, mixed in with an Indian Medicinal Oil, over my body before performing the sacred woods deep massage, aimed at regaining the body’s essential vitality. Chinese Step: Last but not least was the regenerating ‘Sublime Body Wrap’, a mix of Sacred Lotus, Qi-Marine and silky Rice Bran Oil, a thick white cream that was slathered on before I was loosely wrapped in cling film weighed down with a towel. This soothing 15 minutes soak was followed with a hot towel wipe down. The delicate, powdery scent enhanced the deep relaxation action thanks to the lily, jasmine and sandalwood fragrance, which left my skin incredibly silky and soft. After I peeled myself off the massage bed and headed to the seating area, Mini poured me some delicious spicy ginger tea and for that extra calming component (not that I needed it mind you), draped a hot beanbag over my shoulders. I felt like a piece of butter on a hot day. This two-hour treatment was a refreshing and rejuvenating delight where Ayana certainly lives up to the standards of, “we welcome you into a world where you can escape and indulge yourself leaving the care of your body and senses in our expert hands,” as I came away spirits high, reinvigorated and a smile beaming from ear to ear. I can guarantee you wont be disappointed and you will return back to civilization ensuring your next treatment has been booked.

Kumquat

1. Jackfruit Native to southwestern India, Bangladesh, Philippines and Sri Lanka The juicy pulp tastes similar to pineapple 2. Star fruit Native to Indonesia, India and Sri Lanka This golden-yellow fruit is sweet and crunchy with a taste combination of apples, kiwis and pineapples

3. Kumquat Native to China Resembling small oranges, they are often used in marmalade and teas, or boiled and used to cure sore throats 4. Dragon Fruit Native to Mexico and Central and South America Deriving from the cactus species, it has a creamy pulp with a sweet subtle taste. The flowers are also eaten or used for tea

Passion Fruit

Dragon Fruit

5. Passion Fruit Native to South America and grown in places such as India, New Zealand and Brazil It has a seedy, juicy interior and a tantelising flavour

Star fruit

bon voyage

LANDMARK

THE WALL The Great Wall leaps from hilltop to hilltop and across northern Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most rugged terrain, challenging trekkers to keep up BY TERRY MATHUKUTTY

tanding in the watch towers, one could imagine the raider armies charging from the valleys below. The wall was a barrier between China and the barbarian lands. Strategically placed, the walls were extended and fortified century over century with every changing dynasty who realised its defensive significance. Additional walls were built inside and outside of the Great Wall by the different

May 2010

dynasties. For long stretches it sprawls in extravagant decay, battered by time, weather, and neglect. The Great Wall of China was one of the most ambitious and largest construction projects in human history. Built more than 2,000 years ago to keep the invaders from the north, the Great Wall runs like a monumental backbone across China. It is the only manmade structure that can be seen from orbit. The first wall was built by Qin Shi Huangdi, the first emperor of China during the Qin Dynasty (221 B.C - 206 B.C.). After subjugating and uniting China from seven Warring States, the emperor of the Han

dynasty connected and extended four old fortification walls along the north of China that originated about 700 B.C. Armies were stationed along the wall as a first line of defence against the invading nomadic Hun tribes north of China. Over 5,000kms long, it stretches across the mountains of northern China, winding north and northwest of Beijing. It is constructed of masonry, rocks and packed-earth. In 1115, the Jin Dynasty and since they were from the north themselves, understood that the Mongols were right behind them. The Jin emperor ordered the construction of a Third Great Wall to be built in Heilongjiang Province and the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. The walls built had the characteristics of having ditches running along the walls full length. It was not until the battle against the Mongols that renewed interest in reinforcing the Great Wall occurred. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Great Wall was extended to 6,400kms and renovated over a 200 year period, with watch-towers, garrisons and cannons added. Between 1569 and 1583, the most wellknown parts of the Great Wall were built, the Fourth Great Wall. The reinforced wall managed to repel Mongols several times.

The Manchu retook China in 1644 and formed the Qing Dynasty. From this point on, the Wall slowly started to fade away while stone and rocks were taken from the Wall for building projects and homes. The Cultural Revolution definitely took its toll out on the wall when local people and local governments were encouraged to help dismantle the Great Wall. It was not until 1984 that President Deng Xiaoping started a restoration and protection project. In 1987, the Great Wall was declared a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO.

travel BRIEF When to go September to November. Summer is hot and wet; snow and ice makes conditions dangerous in winter

Where to go The most popular destinations near Beijing are Badaling (43 miles), Mutianyu (53 miles), Jinshanling (68 miles) and Simatai (68 miles). Packaged day trips to these sites can be purchased from hotels and travel agencies in the capital. Increasingly, specialty travel agencies and clubs are offering new ways to experience the fortifications in the Beijing area, including camping and hiking along wild, unrestored sections.

How to get there Beijing Public Transport: Hiring a car and driver to Beijing-area wall sites can cost $100 or more, so you may want to try other options. Beijing Public Transport runs

special tourist buses from various longdistance stations in the city to Badaling, Mutianyu, Simatai and Jinshanling. Railway service to Badaling is available at the Xizhimen Train Station in north-western Beijing

Heads On Parts of the route can be treacherous and a guide will prove wise. Take sunscreen, bottled water, a picnic and

pocket money for any purchases. Haggling over any prices of everything you can buy at the wall is expected and a necessity.

Highlights Ancient watchtowers, which once housed troops and sent signals along the route; make perfect standpoints over the infinite landscape of peaks and valleys. You can picnic inside them, enjoying a sentryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s view north towards Mongolia. The reward for climbing the Tian Qiao (Stairway to Heaven) is a dizzying view across the Miyun reservoir and over Beijing. For a luxury experience of another part of the wall, then stay in The Commune by the Great Wall Kempinsiki hotel in Badaling. It is not cheap, but the hotel itself is an architectural experience mixing the ancient with the ultramodern, and offers superb mountain views of the wall. bon voyage

DIVING - INTERNATIONAL

Captivated by the Cathedral at Koh Haa By Ciaran Tierney

iterally meaning ‘five islands’, as ‘haa’ is the Thai word for five, there are a number of superb sites within minutes of each other at a location where snorkellers can have as much fun as divers of all skill levels. Located two hours from the picturesque island of Koh Lanta, the Koh Haa sites are visited every three days or so by Lantabased Blue Planet Divers, whose spacious dive boat departs from Saladan for a oneday trip at 8am. On the way to the sites our guide for the day, English PADI scuba instructor Kevin Skeltern, spoke enthusiastically about the marine life we would encounter at the islands. He told us to look out for small creatures such as shrimp and crabs, hiding in the limestone cliffs and crannies. We were not to be disappointed! The boat moored up in the shallow lagoon between the islands and, even from the deck, it was clear that the visibility was superb. A few people on the boat were

May 2010

While the west coast of Thailand is widely regarded as having some of the best scuba diving on the planet, it could be argued that the small collection of uninhabited islands known as Koh Haa are among the unheralded gems of the Andaman Sea

happy to snorkel in the turquoise waters, where huge soft and fan corals could be seen from the surface. For the rest of us, it was time to get the dive gear on and plunge into the inviting water. Joining us were the Larsson family from Sweden, who had not dived in four years. Our first dive was at Koh Haa 2, an island renowned for its limestone towers, which meets the lagoon at just five metres. It’s a perfect place to renew dive skills and has an extensive shallow area, complete with colourful coral, which is ideal for a safety stop at the end of the dive. After dropping down, we soon descended to about 20 metres on the eastern side where we began to explore the incredible variety of marine life located around vast boulders. Then, suddenly, our guide pointed towards the sandy bottom, where a large turtle was calmly swimming towards us, almost oblivious to our bubbles. We followed the turtle for a good five minutes, enraptured, and then Kevin guided us through a relaxing 55 minute dive. The amount of fish in the area was stunning. We came across a huge lionfish, partially hidden under a rock; a big school of barracuda over our heads; a couple of giant moray eels, a titan triggerfish nibbling on a

piece of coral, and a massive lobster, its tentacles protruding from a hole in a rock at about 15 metres. After heading back to the boat for refreshments, our appetites were well whetted for the second dive of the day, this one across the lagoon at the larger Koh Haa Yai. After again dropping in from the back of the Blue Planet boat, we almost immediately came across an energetic sea snake cruising through the corals. Kevin took us down to 18 metres, where he patiently coaxed a strange looking creature, a spearing mantis shrimp, out of its hole on the sandy bottom. Ascending a little, we came across a robust ghost pipefish, one of the strangest creatures I had seen in my life. Hovering in the water at about seven metres, it looked

like two brown leaves blowing in the wind (above). For me, the highlight of the day came right at the end. Suddenly, at 14 metres, two huge entrances to a spacious cave appeared in front of us, a place I was later to learn was called ‘The Cathedral’. Slowly, we ascended inside the cave, swimming towards the surface, bewitched by the sunlight penetrating the dark blue. And then, almost unexpectedly, we were at the surface, breathing in the muffled air about two to three metres from the top of the cave. Just for a minute, we took the regulators out of our mouths, and basked in the incredible gloomy light. Within five minutes we had completed our safety stop, just metres from the cave, and were on our way back to the boat to commence our discussions about a brilliant day’s diving at Koh Haa. For more information about diving the local sites near Koh Lanta, check out www.blueplanetdivers.net bon voyage

MUSEUMS

The Children’s MuseuM k in r a P oos ture b a a N Q urm e Sultan Q e h f th ar t f e ped o n a t s d h s e u j t um ome Loca al Qurm, e d s e u t i h i sM Shatt ay, sits a w Children’ e highw uction: th r const

A life-size display of the human skeleton

The entrance to the Children’s Museum

Some visual optical illusions to get the mind working

A demonstration explaining how bacteria can build resistance against penicillin

May 2010

Children can view samples on hand through microscopes

A structure showing the 5 human senses

A structure explaining black holes in the universe

he museum showcases a variety of fun and exciting interactive learning games, experiments and informative structures. It is a popular destination for school outings in the Muscat area and welcomes approximately 50,000 visitors per year. Some of the activities clarify topics ranging from air pressure, bacteria building a resistance to antibiotics such as penicillin, primary and secondary colours, balance, reaction time, movement times, as well as real and virtual images. Kids can also test their flexibility, the strength in their hands and learn how voice pitch is changed. Some visual optical illusions and a functioning hot air balloon are also on display.

There are a range of models and structures displayed in the museum explaining phenomena such as black holes in the universe, galaxies, stars and how your legs can create electrical energy through a generator. Children can learn about some of the major organs in their bodies and the human skeleton, as well as how their body protects them against injury and infection. There are also microscopes at hand where some samples such as human hair, plant cells and insect legs can be viewed. The Children’s Museum explains an assortment of scientific facts and is informative to people of all age groups. Learning is made pleasurable and is especially entertaining for the children.

Children’s play area

A hot air balloon that rises up into the air, showing that hot air rises

The museu

m Ti

mings: Saturday – Wed nesday : 08:30 – 13:30 (On Mondays, the museum w ill additionally be open between 16:00 and 18:00) Thursday : 09:0 0 – 13:00 enTrance

A model identifying the major organs in the human body

fees

: Adults: 500 baiz as Children unde r 12 years: 100 baizas Telephone: (+96 8)24b 605 368

Children enjoying some of the activities in the museum bon voyage

ROOM WITH A VIEW

Shangri-laÕ s Barr al Jissa Ð Al Husn Hyesha Barrett basks in luxury It is thrilling how things develop and unfold, for this section that started off as a Ô picture from a room with a brief description,Õ ended up as an intimate affair with the hotel and its facilities. From the second I set foot into the lobby and was given my little leather pouch enveloping my room key, to being greeted by a lovely personal welcome note on my pillow, until I zoomed off into the distance the following day all refreshed from a stunning getaway, the whole experience still brings a smile to my face. ‘Al Husn’, signifying ‘The Castle’ reflects just that: a palace fit for a King and his Queen or even a princess like myself! After a long days work, I arrived just after nightfall and feasted on some delicious seafood at the tranquil Bait al Bahr before retiring for the night in my luxurious suite with a knock out view of the coastline and the other two resorts. All the 179 rooms of this 6-star resort are sea facing, each holding a generous sized balcony or terrace, known to be the most spacious in Oman. The grandiose bathrooms come with a sliding door panel allowing guests to gaze at the azure sea while relaxing in the bath Ð not forgetting to mention each amenity has been thoroughly thought of: down to the anti-slip rubber mat you place in the bath tub, to hair bands, bath salts, laundry powder, face atomiser and all the usuals. To top off the luxuries, upon request, each room comes with a personal butler service and oneÕ s own Ipod and laptop. Majestic, palatial and luxurious are but a few ways to describe my stay, as I sat on the balcony overlooking the bay below with the full moon illuminating the resplendent mountains and the calm sea gently caressing the sandy shores on which the 100-year old Hawksbill turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. A zealous ranger scouts the area twice daily and alerts any guests who would care to see these prehistoric creatures clamber ashore. The morning I left, the eggs laid three months back had just hatched. How amazing to see nature unfold as these bite-sized critters poked their tiny heads out of the sand and crept their way to the sea. From start to finish, the experience at Al Husn was definitely unforgettable; Dunia, the communications coordinator put it in writing when she signed off her welcome note with Ò sincerely hope you have a memorable stay with usÓ . First hand I can tell you it will remain with me for a while. For rates and reservations please call: (968) 24 77 6262 or email: reservations.simu@shangri-la.com For further enquiries call: 24 766 666 or visit www.shangri-la.com

May 2010

bon voyage

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Narjeel come indulge in some delectable Thai dishes and enjoy your dessert while star gazing. We did.

he unexpected always reaps the best surprises. With no signpost directing us, we would have never known about this place if it was not for the short cut via the second right turning, after Qurm Natural Park round about. What a delightful stumble upon and we have become quite the regular since. Already two years old, the restaurants whereabouts are secluded but the delicious menu makes up for it and the homely, relaxed atmosphere with ambient Thai music sets the appropriate mood. The medium sized dishes come with a good price tag and the waiter’s attentive service and constant smile along with the elegant presentation gives us that ‘quality over quantity’ feel. Dishes prepared by a Thai chef, demure in character and bringing out his roots in the delectable food, we dined on the most popular dishes ordered by the customers. Mohammed Alkindy, one of the four partners of this quaint little eatery, joined

us as we dug in and discussed the thought process behind Narjeel: Arabic for ‘coconut’, symbolizing generosity and good taste, the partners wanted to create a Thai – Omani blend reflecting a “natural, sense of belonging” and brought reeds in from Fanja for the ceiling and frankincense holders as lamp shades emitting bukhur (incense) fumes when lit. This quiet, remote restaurant is definitely worth a repeat visit and if you are into astronomy, you can end your gastronomic experience under the restaurants stars – there is a planetarium where you can star gaze while you enjoy your dessert or coffee. An astute projector is linked to the nightly movement of the planets and stars and projected inside this planetarium. The

table tops made of galaxy granite were also specifically chosen to suit the theme.

Menu description Shrimp canapé OMR3.200 Deep fried bread topped with minced shrimp, chicken and sesame seed canapé served with sweet sauce Similar to its neighbouring Chinese ‘prawn toast’, although deep-fried, the oil was not overbearing and the ingredients quite tasty. The sweet sauce compliments this starter very nicely. Tod mun koong OMR3.800

Deep-fried minced shrimp cake served with sweet sauce This doughnut looking starter was quite crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, a delicious treat to dip in its sweet and sour condiment. It really is amazing how many ways shrimp can be made and taste quite differently.

Tom yum koong num koon

OMR3.500 Light cream soup with hot and sour prawns or seafood with galangal, kaffir lime leaf and lemongrass served in young coconut A favorite of the night, this soup had a good mixture of sweet and sour with the perfect combination of meaty seafood, with just the right amount of spice.

Som tum OMR2.500

Authentic Thai spicy papaya salad with lime dressing

May 2010

One of our personal favorites, you can order it according to how spicy you want it: the more chilli the better as it really brings out all the blended tastes. The papaya is brought in from Salalah and needs to be green to ensure crunchiness.

Koong pad nho mai pha-rung OMR4.500 Stir-fried asparagus and prawn in a light garlic sauce A very nicely balanced dish, the asparagus was nice and crisp, the prawns cooked to perfection and the sauce an overall great binder. Kai pad med mamuang

OMR3.800 Stir-fried chicken with roasted cashew nuts, red chilli and onions This non-spicy dish is Mohammedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite, and although tasty, the chicken pieces were unfortunately too over done and hence a bit chewy. The flavours were nice but seemingly over used in most dishes of the Orient. We were hoping for something a little different.

Pad priew wann kai OMR3.200

Stir-fried chicken and vegetables with a sweet and sour sauce Another chicken dish, this would have been better served as fish, as the poultry here also lacked some substance. The crispy vegetables were tasty, but the overall flavour was nothing outstanding.

Tako OMR1.500

Sweet white coconut cream pudding with water chesnut and tapioca A nice mix of crunchy water chesnut with tapioca balls blended in with sweet coconut cream. A delicious, traditional treat to end the meal.

Star Ratings Atmosphere Food Price Location Service

www.narjeel.com

Timings: 11am-3pm, 6-10:30pm Tel: 24 560 606

bon voyage

NATURAL WONDER

SPACE The Final Frontier

Since the dawn of manned spaceflight, just over 500 people have travelled to space â&#x20AC;&#x201C; now you could be one of them. Terry Mathukutty takes us there

May 2010

eing an avid fan of Star Trek whenever space is mentioned, a single sentence reverberates in mind “Space - the final frontier”. When news came that Guy Laliberte became the seventh tourist to travel to space, it became obvious that space was no longer inaccessible. Space Adventures started in 1998 with an endeavour that space be accessible to private citizens of the world and open the way towards space tourism. Their clients have cumulatively spent over two months abroad the International Space Station. They provide quite a few exciting programs: Orbital spaceflight, Lunar Mission, Sub-orbital spaceflight and Zero gravity trips, which are constantly developing and are more reliable, affordable with safer access to space. Space Adventures, with its repeat customer, Charles Simonyi proves that the destination is a successful one.

ORBITAL SPACEFLIGHT PROGRAM USD20mn Orbital spaceflight is one in which you circle the earth every 90 minutes. Tourists will spend 12 days in space watching the earth from space. The 20-million-plus price tag of the trip probably deters a few punters, but there’s also the requirement that you will have to learn Russian before they call your flight. And there’s a sixmonth training course to go on for your spaceflight and spacewalk at the legendary Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut training centre near Star City, Moscow. State-of-the-art facilities, simulators and methods are employed to train you for space-flight. Front up the cash, pass the very best medical exam you’ll ever have to face and learn not to throw up as you’re whirled around on Star City’s centrifuge and you too could be strapped to the top of a Soyuz launcher and blasted into orbit from Baikonur Cosmodrome in Kazakhstan. You will spend 16 days abroad the International Space Station. Board a chartered Tupolev for a threehour flight south from Moscow. At the

Cosmodrome in isolation, after a proper medical check-up, you will be under isolation for take off the next day. Soyuz crews reach orbit in nine minutes after launch. Once in orbit it takes about two days to reach the International Space Station. When you reach earth’s orbit you are travelling through space at over 10,000kmph, and are over 300kms above the earth surface. The weightless environment means you are floating inside your spacecraft, which is a thrill in itself.

SPACEWALK Only a few astronauts and cosmonauts have ever left the confines of the space station, but all agree that it is an unforgettable and inspiring experience to float above Earth. This is an entirely unique opportunity that cannot be matched. Spacewalks are usually conducted to complete the construction, facilitate routine maintenance and repair of the space station, and to conduct scientific experimentation that cannot be performed from within the International Space Station.

LUNAR MISSION USD100mn Lunar mission is another program where one can experience the majesty and wonder of earth rise and explore the far side of the moon. This would be the first private expedition to the moon. A circumlunar mission uses a unique combination of existing and flight tested Russian technology. This mission builds on space technology originally developed for manned lunar missions, and has been flown over decades as part of the world’s most successful human spaceflight program. The journey to the far side of the moon begins by first launching aboard a Soyuz spacecraft. Then, a subsequent launch will occur of an unmanned rocket booster. The spacecraft will rendez-vous with this additional system in low-Earth-orbit. The engagement of the two will provide the spacecraft with the required propellant to travel to the moon. Once the firing of the booster is complete, the two systems will bon voyage

NATURAL WONDER

separate and you will continue on your journey around the moon. This USD200mn effort, which sells at USD100mn per seat, marks an unprecedented reduction in cost, with increased safety, of any previous manned lunar effort.

Suborbital Spaceflight USD102,000 In an unprecedented sensory experience, rocket engines boost you beyond the normal limits of flight to regions where space begins (above 100 kilometres). After the engines shutdown, there will be up to five minutes of continuous weightlessness,

May 2010

all the while gazing at the vast blackness of space and the blue horizon of the Earth below. The view is told to be momentous. The suborbital spaceflight experience will last a few days. During this time all the training and guidance required to ensure you are fully prepared will be provided. On the launch day, flight specialists will guide you and ensure that you have a truly unforgettable, safe and enjoyable spaceflight.

ZERO GRAVITY FLIGHT USD3000 To fly like superman must definitely have been the dream of most people and the Zero-G flights gives you just that. For 25

seconds at a time one can experience true weightlessness allowing you to float, flip and soar as if you were in space. The flight will definitely induce motion sickness for a few and hence aptly called the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Vomit Cometâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Training sessions and optional nausea remedies reduce the risk of getting space-sick. A typical parabolic flight lasts about 90 minutes, with 15 up-and-down parabolas at an altitude of 24,000 to 34,000 feet. Available at USD3000 per person up to USD165,000 for a whole plane charter of 35 people. These programs are available in USA and Russia. Companies like Space Adventures, Incredible Adventures and Zero G group provide the space tourist with this exhilarating experience of a lifetime.

EXOTIC FOOD

Scoffing Scorpions WhatÕ s the most obscure thing you have eaten? Let us take a look at one of the exotic snacks served in Thailand

hailand is a stunning country that has been attracting tourists for over decades now. It’s a place where you can walk with elephants surrounded by lush green backdrops, sun tan on some of the most gorgeous beaches on earth and sample some of the mysterious dishes on offer. You can not leave Thailand without trying the vending carts dotted along the streets serving fresh fruits, traditional pad

thai (typical noodle dish), or even a concoction of bugs. Many Thai natives perceive bugs to be a low-calorie, healthy snack as they are known to have a high protein and calcium content. It’s quite the norm as you wander down the streets to come across street vendors selling stacks of fat juicy larvaes, beetles, crickets and why not, scorpions. What was once a necessity to eat protein to survive, has now transformed into a tourist attraction where the streets buzz with people buying these little insects and egging their friends on to taste them. As preparation, the live scorpions are put into a small bowl of water to clean them, their struggle according to Thai chefs is a good thing: the ones that are already dead don’t make a good snack. After their soak, the scorpions are lifted with chopsticks and dropped into rice wine for a few minutes, which puts the scorpions into a painless coma. It’s possible to eat the scorpions after this stage, but it is preferable to have them fried, grilled or boiled.

You may wonder how scorpions can be eaten, as they are poisonous. The chef scissors off the tail sting and the poison sacs before arranging them on a plate; but strangely enough some people believe that eating the tail of the scorpion will make them

stronger. The arachnid is usually sautéed with different flavourings such as lemon grass and chilli, which is then served with rice; while others eat them plain, just as a snack. People who have tried this prehistoric creature admitted the experience wasn’t as bad as they thought it would be, describing the taste as being quite fishy with a hint of nut. Certain Thai women will not be seen eating insects, especially those from the middle or upper class, as they consider them a poor man’s food. However, if you are an adventurous person and like to try new things, why not go to one of the food stands the next time you are in Thailand and indulge in some crispy scorpions, a nutritious and good value for money snack. At least you can say you’ve tried it! bon voyage

4WD PICK-UP

Big Muscle

Adventurer GMC probably build the most reliable trucks in the world. We wanted to see how the top-of-the-line Sierra Denali felt on our trip

he pick-up truck has long been a mainstay of American byways and highways, and GMC has been there from day one. Originally used and respected by farmers, construction workers and smallbusiness owners, GMC’s hauler was a basic workhorse known for its reliability and longevity. More recent times have seen GMC’s full-size truck adopt the name Sierra, which was previously an upscale trim level. Today they have grown into handsome machines, with good proportions and minimum unnecessary detailing. A big GMC grille is framed by tall headlamps, and big windows are proportionate to the Sierra’s tall side metal. The GMC Sierra 1500 benefits from GM’s extensive reworking of both fullsize pick-ups and full-size SUVs; among the benefits are two distinct interiors. The SLT trim level features the same “luxuryinspired” interior also used in GMC’s SLTtrim Yukon and Yukon XL full-size sport utilities. Both attractive instrument panels are mounted low and far forward for an increased spacious feeling. The same can be said about the back seat area in the crew cab models, which offer ample space and great

May 2010

comfort. Its elevated stadium-style rear seat has a 60/40-split design and folding centre armrest, which can be easily folded up with one hand to provide an uninterrupted load floor. The Denali offers a distinct front end, front and rear fenders and hood. An upscale look is highlighted by narrow gaps between body panels, enabled by the new version’s significantly stiffer frame. The grille with

the prominent GMC logo is complemented by large “jewel” headlights. The pickup box is taller than in the previous version of the Sierra and, at the same time, better integrated. The stamped-in rear fender flares are designed to give the truck a muscular look along with our test vehicle’s 22-inch wheels. There is easier entry into the rear seat/storage area in extended-cab models accommodated with new rear access doors

that open 170 degrees. Power-operated rear-side windows lower completely into the access doors. A lot of power and surprising ride comfort are two hallmarks of the Sierra. Riding on a full-boxed frame for more chassis stiffness, with coil-over-shock front

suspension and rack-and-pinion steering, the big pick-up truck is surprisingly nimble and easy to manoeuvre. Our lengthy test drive took us over the sand dunes, yet the Sierra’s cabin retained library-like quietness. We found it hard to choose between the ‘pure pick-up’ interior and

the ‘luxury-inspired’ one, as both were handsome and functional. The Sierra is equipped with a 5.3-litre, V8, while the Denali offers a 6.2-liter variable-valvetiming engine. We have to admit we liked the pure power of the 6.2-liter V8s. The StabiliTrak electronic stability control system is standard equipment on all V8 trims. The Denali fits beautifully for those who want the space, power and capabilities of a workhorse pick-up, as well as the reliability and comfort of a full-size SUV. The top-ofthe-line with a price tag of just OMR18,500 should find a segment of buyers who can afford style as well as substance. If you are into equipping it with larger tires, ask the dealers for a better price, and we are sure they will make your day. bon voyage

TRAVEL TIPS

Tipping uncensored T

he awkward feeling when we fumble around with the tip to be paid is almost universal and its worse when travelling aboard. In the past year we travelled over 10,000kms to eight countries and we follow the standard rule of tipping: 10 -15 percent of the bill as gratuity. Gratuity is dependent on the service received and reward should be given for good service. In some cases the bill includes service and the choice of tipping is yours. The last time we paid a hefty tip in a restaurant in Verona, Italy, I kicked myself all the way back to my

Bartender

Waiter

U.S. and Canada

bus as I had overpaid atrociously. The rules are pretty confusing and a bit of research can save time and the puzzlement. We should always tip as the locals do and there are countries where it’s not just practised. For instance in Japan, it’s considered an insult and in America, be expected to be heckled if you don’t tip. In Australia, New Zealand, China and Singapore it’s not expected but it’s a must in Hong Kong. Getting better service at a hotel or restaurant can be a guarantee in the Middle

South America

Europe

East and India if we tip the staff on arrival. Most of the workers in the hospitality industry rely on the fact that the ignorance of the traveller will pay off. Also many times in foreign countries due to language barriers, we fail to understand that the service charges are already included in the bill. Meanwhile cruise ships are a law upon themselves: tips can be added to the final bill or paid on the last night, hence there is no need to carry a lot of change around. See below a few guidelines that can be used as a cheat-sheet for tipping.

Middle East and Africa

Asia

Australia & New zealand

15 % minimum before tax, 18 -20 % for good service

10 % in Mexico, 10 -15 % in the Caribbean and Bahamas (often included in the bill)

10 % (in Brazil it is often included in the bill)

Often included but accepted is 5-15 %, but not expected in Scandinavian countries

10-15 % (often included)

Not expected in Japan, $1.5 in China, 10 % in India (often included)

Not expected but 5-10 % for outstanding service

15-20 % of tab

10 % in Mexico, 10 -15 % in the Caribbean and Bahamas

$1 per drink, 10 % in Brazil and is often included

5 - 10 %

$1 per drink

Not expected but people leave some change

Not expected

Other services

Mexico,Carribean and Bahamas

DIFFERENT PLACES, DIFFERENT RESTAURANTS, DIFFERENT TIPS. TIPPING ETIQUETTE CAN BE A REAL MYSTERY AND WHEN YOU ARE PLACED IN A TOTALLY NEW ENVIRONMENT, IT’S UNSETTLING. WE BRING YOU THE LOWDOWN ON HOW TO TIP.

May 2010

Maitre d’/Captain/Sommelier: extra tip only for extra service i.e. for wine selection, (add 10 % of the wine cost) or getting a choice table (10$-20$). This tip is not generally expected outside the United States. Parking valet $2- $5 (tipping up front will ensure better service) Coat check $1-$2

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52 Al Diyar Hotel.......................................................2 star hotel.......................25412402

Caravans

Al Bustan Palace Intercontinental........5 star hotel.......................24799666

53 Al Jabal Al Akhdar Hotel.............................2 star hotel.......................25429009

Zanzibari Island Restaurant & Coffee Shop......................................24497783

Al Falaj Hotel........................................................4 star hotel.......................24702311

54 Falaj Daris Hotel .............................................3 star hotel.......................25410500

ARABIAN

Al Khuwair Hotel Apartments..................1 star apartments........24478171

55 Golden Tulip Nizwa Hotel..........................4 star hotel.......................25431616

Al Deyar

...............................................................................................24603553

56 Jabal Shams Nomadic Camp Centre.Desert Camp....................99382639

Al Khanjar

...............................................................................................24795545

AL BATINAH

Al Hooti

...............................................................................................24601996

Al Istanbuli

...............................................................................................24480900

58 Al Nahda Resort & Spa...............................5 star resort......................26883710

Al Katkoot

...............................................................................................24542883

59 Al Sawadi Beach Resort..............................4 star hotel resort........26795545

Al Khaima,

Majan Hotel..................................................................24592900

60 Al Wadi Hotel.......................................................3 star hotel.......................26840058

Lyali Zaman..................................................................24498818

61 As Suwaiyq Guest House............................1 star hotel.......................26862241

Al Reef Al Lebnani ................................................................................................24485775

4 5

Al Maha International Hotel....................4 star hotel.......................24494949

Al Reef Hotel Suites.........................................1 star apartments........24494638

Beach Hotel...........................................................2 star hotel.......................24696601

Bowshar Hotel.....................................................3 star hotel.......................24491105

Camilia Hotel........................................................1 star hotel.......................24837460

10 Crowne Plaza Muscat....................................4 star hotel.......................24660660 11 Golden Tulip Seeb............................................4 star hotel.......................24510300

...............................................................................................24475501

62 Crowne Plaza Sohar.......................................5 star hotel.......................26850850

Al Tanoor

...............................................................................................24776666

63 Green Oasis Hotel............................................2 star hotel.......................26846077

Al Zafran

...............................................................................................26841111

64 Sohar Beach by Swiss-BelHotel.............4 star hotel resort........26841111

Arab World,

Al Ghubrah.....................................................................24491734

MUSANDAM

Ruwi High St.................................................................24798119

Automatic,

Al Khuwair......................................................................24487200

65 Esra Hotel Apartments...................................2 star apartment..........26730464

As Seeb.............................................................................24424343

66 Golden Tulip Resort Dibba........................4 star resort......................26836654

Qurum................................................................................24561500

19 Mutrah Hotel........................................................2 star hotel.......................24798402

67 Golden Tulip Resort Khasab....................4 star hotel.......................26630777

Bareeq Al Shatti.........................................................24605735

68 Khasab Hotel.......................................................2 star hotel.......................26730271

Beirut Restaurant ...............................................................................................24568411

20 Nuzha Hotel Apartments.............................1 star apartments........24789199

69 Six Senses Hideaway Zighy Bay..........5 star leisure resort....26735555

Beituti

...............................................................................................24692121 Al Khuwair......................................................................24478225

23 Qurm Beach Resort.........................................4 star resort......................24605945

DHOFAR

Bin Ateeq,

CBD.......................................................................................24702727

24 Radisson BLU Hotel Muscat.....................4 star hotel.......................24487777

70 Al Hanna Hotel...................................................2 star hotel.......................23290274

Camilia Restaurant and Café........................................................................24706663

12 Grand Hyatt Muscat........................................5 star hotel.......................24641234 13 Hala Hotel Apartments.................................2 star apartments........24810442 14 Holiday Inn - Al Madinah.........................4 star hotel.......................24529700 15 Hotel Muscat Holiday....................................4 star hotel.......................24487123 16 Intercontinental Muscat................................5 star hotel.......................24680000 17 Majan Continental Hotel.............................4 star hotel.......................24592900 18 Midan Hotel Suites..........................................3 star hotel.......................24499565

22 Park Inn...................................................................4 star hotel.......................24507888

25 Ramada Muscat................................................4 star hotel.......................24603555

71 Al Jabal Hotel.......................................................2 star hotel.......................23210611

Fatair Al Khaleej ...............................................................................................24798184

26 Ramee Dream Resort...................................3 star resort......................24453399

72 Areen Youth Hostel Apartments ..........2 star apartment..........23234810

Hormuz

...............................................................................................24709070

27 Ramee Guestline Hotel................................4 star hotel.......................24564443

73 Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah..................5 star hotel.......................23235333

Jabal Lebnan

...............................................................................................24698098

28 Ruwi Hotel..............................................................3 star hotel.......................24704244

74 Haffa House Salalah......................................4 star apartment..........23295444

Kargeen Café,

Al Harthy Complex...................................................24560531

29 Safeer Continental Hotel..............................3 star hotel.......................24471111

75 Hamdan Plaza Hotel.....................................3 star hotel.......................23211025

Centrepoint.....................................................................24694048

30 Safeer Hotel Suites...........................................2 star hotel.......................24691200

76 Hilton Salalah Resort.....................................5 star hotel.......................23211234

MQ Complex.................................................................24692269

31 Safeer International Hotel..........................3 star hotel.......................24473900

77 Safeer Residence Salalah..........................3 star villas.......................24480308

Layali Zaman

...............................................................................................24498818

32 Safeer Plaza Hotel Suites...........................3 star hotel.......................24471000

78 Salalah Marriott Resort................................5 star hotel.......................23268245

Meknes

...............................................................................................24475497

33 Star Hotel Apartments...................................2 star apartments........24498008

79 Samahram Tourist Village .......................3 star hotel/villas........23211420

Mombasa

...............................................................................................24480340

AL DHAHIRAH

Ofair

...............................................................................................24482965

Samar

...............................................................................................99273529

79 Ibri Oasis Hotel...................................................2 star hotel.......................25691626

Shahrazad

...............................................................................................24776666

AL WUSTA

Shiraz

...............................................................................................24660660

Tarboosh

Opp Sabco Centre.....................................................24565673

80 Duqm Tourist Guest House.......................1 star hotel.......................25427191

Al Ghubrah.....................................................................24498553

81 Ghaba Guest House .....................................2 star hotel.......................99358639

The Arabia Courtyard...........................................................................................24524400

82 Uwaifiyah Guest House...............................1 star hotel.......................25428273

The Khanjar Omani Cuisine...........................................................................24795545

BURAIMI GOVERNORATE

Turkish House

...............................................................................................24488071

Ubhar

...............................................................................................24565689

84 Al Dahrah Hotel.................................................1 star hotel.......................25652995

Wadi Hadramout Restaurant........................................................................24475282

34 Sun City Hotel.......................................................1 star hotel.......................24789801 35 The Chedi Muscat.............................................5 star beach resort.....24524400 36 The Treasurebox Muscat Hotel..............2 star hotel.......................24502570

AL SHARQIYAH 37 1001 nights...........................................................Desert camp....................99448158 38 Al Areesh Camp.................................................Desert camp....................24493232 39 Al Naseem Camp.............................................Desert camp....................24493232 40 Al Qabil Guest House....................................1 star guest house.....25581243 41 Areen Youth Hostel Al Ashkara..............2 star apartments........25566266 42 Bidiya Tourist Camp........................................Desert camp....................99332914

85 Al Barka Hotel Apartments ......................1 star hotel.......................25654955

CAFES

44 Ibra Hotel................................................................1 star hotel.......................25571873

86 Al Masa Hotel ...................................................2 star hotel.......................25653007

Abala

...............................................................................................24695903

87 Hamasa Hotel ..................................................1 star hotel.......................25651200

Al Ahli Café

...............................................................................................24424400

45 Masirah Hotel......................................................2 star hotel.......................25504401

88 Al Salam Hotel....................................................3 star hotel.......................25655789

Al Falaj Coffee Shop.............................................................................................24702311

43 Desert Nights Camp........................................Desert camp....................92818388

46 Nomadic Desert Camp.................................Desert camp ..................99336273

89 Haima Rest House..........................................1 star hotel.......................23436061

Al Maha

...............................................................................................24487123

47 Sur Beach Hotel.................................................3 star hotel.......................25542031

90 Al Jazeera Guest House..............................1 star hotel.......................25427555

Al Mas

...............................................................................................24491105

48 Sur Plaza Hotel...................................................3 star hotel.......................25543777

88 Mahoot Guest House ..................................1 star hotel.......................25427272

Art Café

...............................................................................................24558176

49 Turtle Beach Resort.........................................Resort....................................25543400

89 Al Majd Hotel Apartments .......................2 star hotel.......................25688272

Barista

...............................................................................................24571531

50 Raz Al Jinz Scientific Centre.......................1 star hotel.......................96550606

90 Wahat Al Barka Hotel Apartments ....1 star hotel.......................25650955

Café Barbera

...............................................................................................24603505

51 Swiss-BelHotel Resort Masirah..............4 star resort......................25504274

91 Al Buraimi Hotel .............................................4 star hotel.......................25642010

May 2010

RESTAURANTS, CAFES

MUSCAT