Craft Documentation on Rambans fibre

Rambans

Unravelling fibre of Kotdwar, Uttarakhand Craft Documentation Year-2019-2020

Documented by -

Deeksha Bhargava Manasi M. Shalini Suman M.Des, Textile Design’18

Guide -

Prof. Vijai Singh Katiyar

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Rambans

Unravelling fibre of Kotdwar, Uttarakhand Craft Documentation Year-2019-2020

Documented by -

Deeksha Bhargava Manasi M. Shalini Suman M.Des, Textile Design’18

Guide -

Prof. Vijai Singh Katiyar

National Institute of Design Paldi, Ahmedabad 380 007 Text and illustrations Š Shalini Suman @Deeksha Bharava @ Manasi M. Photographs Š Shalini Suman @Deeksha Bharava @ Manasi M. KMC Ref. no: Project Guided by- Mr. Vijay Singh Katiyar Designed by - Shalini Suman, Deeksha Bharava and Manasi M. Edited by -Shalini Suman, Deeksha Bharava and Manasi M. Printed at -

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ABOUT NID The National Institute of Design (NID) is internationally acclaimed as one of the foremost multi-disciplinary institutions in the field of design education and research. NID has been declared ‘Institution of National Importance’ by the Act of Parliament, by virtue of the National Institute of Design Act 2014.

Today the National Institute of Design is internationally acclaimed as one of the finest educational and research institutions for Industrial, Communication, Textile and IT Integrated (Experiential) Design.

The mandate for NID is to offer world-class design education and to promote design awareness and application towards raising the quality of life by and through education to create design professionals of excellence to help meet India’s diverse design needs. Encouraging the design of products and systems of everyday use in a spirit of restless search for indigenous design solutions by focusing on affordable design for the masses. Also, to provide design intervention for craft, handloom, rural technology, small, medium and large scale enterprises, and outreach programmes for capability and institution building and sustainable livelihood, employment opportunities and economic growth.

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ABOUT THE SPONSOR Earthwatch Institute is an international environmental charity founded as Educational Expeditions International in 1971 near Boston (USA) by Robert A. Citron and Clarence Truesdale, then superintendent of Vermont public schools. It is one of the largest global underwriters of scientific field research in archaeology, paleontology, marine life, biodiversity, ecosystems and wildlife. For over forty years, Earthwatch has delivered a unique citizen science model to raise funds and recruit individuals, students, teachers and corporate fellows to participate in critical field research to understand nature’s response to accelerating global change. Earthwatch’s work supports hundreds of Ph.D. researchers across dozens of countries, conducting over 100,000 hours of research annually.

Earthwatch’s mission statement is “to engage people worldwide in scientific field research and education to promote the understanding and action necessary for a sustainable environment.”

Earthwatch Citizen Science Projects are peer-reviewed, Ph.D led scientific field research which give everyday citizens the opportunity to join research teams around the world to collect field data in the areas such as wildlife conservation, rainforest ecology, marine science and archaeology.

By paying to spend time on a project (ranging from a few days to several weeks), volunteers, corporations and foundations support the critical field research both financially and by providing manpower to collect data. Participants gain first hand experience with science, the scientists and the research area of their projects.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT This Craft documentation was a research initiative in collaboration between Innovation Centre for Natural Fibres (ICNF), NID and Earthwatch Institute. It has been a valuable experience and a great journey of learning for us and has been possible as a result of sincere effort, co-operation and guidance from a lot of people. Through this document we take the opportunity to express our sincere gratitude and thankfulness to all those who helped us in making our experience of the entire course successful.

First and foremost we would like to express our deepest gratitude to our subject faculty and guide Prof. Vijai Singh Katiyar for providing his heartfelt support, guidance and for sparing his valuable time whenever we approached and showing us the way ahead. The continuous and deliberate discussion on the topic and indeterminable burden taken by him in the entire research and documentation process.

We also want to thank Mr. Amit Sinha for his valuable suggestions and support and Ms. Marilyn Gore for helping us in editing the document.

We are really thankful to Mr. Sandeep Kandwal for helping and us throughout the field research in our visit to Uttarakhand, his contributions means a lot.

We are grateful to the department head Mrs. Swasti Singh Ghai for her support and encouragement and we are also thankful to the textile department for their constant support in our entire journey of this research project, Alok Bhai for being there and helping us whenever needed.

We are very thankful to the academic fraternity at the college, National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad for having such a system in place, where students are given opportunities to learn about different crafts and culture and also get the chance for to visit the cluster and get to interact with the artisans and people involved.

We would like to express my special thanks to Shri Raghu Saxena (CEO, Earthwatch Institute), Ms. Surabhi Sharma and Ms. Vriti pandit for initiating the collaboration and their kind help in the partial funding approval processes. Also for their profound support and their kind contribution in our entire research project.

We are thankful to our class fellows and friends for helping us wherever needed and being our constant support.

Special regard and greatest appreciation is reserved for all the artisans for helping us in gathering the information, learning the craft and for their love and support.

The acknowledgement would be incomplete without thanking the biggest source of our strength, our family. This would not have been possible without their unwavering and unselfish love and support given to us at all the times.

PREFACE As a part of the craft documentation module National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad collaborated with Earthwatch Institute. Under the guidance of Prof. Vijai Singh Katiyar and Amit Sinha each group was assigned and prepared for the visit to their designated cluster for a period of almost two weeks with their assigned mentors who was a native of the place where the cluster is situated. During the course of the visit every group had to do their detailed research on the cluster, fibers, artisans and about the art and craft made from the fiber.

The main objective of the craft research and documentation is for the students to study the various unique handicrafts and understand its importance as well as documenting it for the future reference.

Our group was assigned to work on the fiber named Rambans in Uttarakhand. We had our visit of 2 weeks at Kotdwar, Uttarakhand. We visited the rambans cluster of Kasyali village, worked with the artisans. We had a detailed study about the place, rambans plant, cultivation, fiber and its processing and the different techniques used to make the products under the guidance of our mentor Mr. Sandeep Kandwal and artisan named Mrs. Yashoda Devi. During the visit we helped the artisans with couple of new product ideas as well. After the visit once back in college,we were introduced to Mrs. Marilyn Gore who helped us edit and frame the contents aptly. This module gifted us a very memorable opportunity to visit and learn about an entirely new aspect of the handicraft segment.

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CONTENT

Looking back 2.1. History of the ramban cluster 2.2. Infrastructure 2.3. Govt. and non govt. organisations

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Location and environment 1.1. Devabhumi, the land of gods

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1.2. Kotdwar

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1.3. Kasyali

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1.1.1. Flora and fauna 1.2.1. Climate

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People of Kasyali 3.1. Demographics 3.2. Social cultural aspects

3.2.1. Clothing 3.2.2. Food 3.2.3. Fairs and Festivals 3.2.4. Architecture 3.2.5. Occupation

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4.6.3

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Rambans 4.1. About the fiber 4.2. Fibre history 4.3. Cultivation 4.4. Fibre Extraction 4.5. Dyeing 4.6. About the Craft

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4.7. Storage

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4.6.1. People involved 4.6.2. Raw materials 3. echniques for making the base 4.6.4. Product Development

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Personality 6.1. Fiber specifications 6.2. Identity of craft 6.3. Categories of products 6.4. Colour and expression 6.5. Socio economic relevance 6.6. Economic viability 6.7. Sustainability and waste management

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48 49 50-54 55 56 57 58

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Product range

Future Prospects

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7.1. Current scenario 60 7.2. Swot analysis 63-64 7.3. Conflicts and resolutions 65 7.4. Policies 66 7.5. Market 67 7.6. Reflection 68 Conclusion 69-70 Bibliography 71

CHAPTER - 1 LOCATION & ENVIRONMENT

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1.1. DEVABHUMI, THE LAND OF GODS

KOTDWAR

Uttarakhand, where our research is based, derives its name from the Sanskrit words uttara, meaning ‘north’, and khanda, meaning ‘land’ - apt for a state situated at the foot of the Himalayas. The Indian state covers a total area of 53,483 km2 and is home to the point of origin for two of Hinduism’s most important rivers: the and the Yamuna. The topography and vegetation vary greatly with elevation, from glaciers at the highest elevations to subtropical forests at the lower elevations. There are many ancient temples and buildings in the region which were constructed under the influence of the local culture, topography, materials available, geo-climatic conditions, and seismic activity. About 43% of the state’s population speaks Hindi, Uttarakhand’s official language, while 23% speak Garhwali, 20% Kumaoni and 1.3% Jaunsari.

Fig.1.1.1: Kotdwar, a Municipal corporation and tehsil in Pauri Garhwal district in the Indian state of Uttarakhand.

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1.1.1. FLORA & FAUNA With a recorded forest area of 34,666 km2, or 65% of the state, Uttarakhand is rich in flora and fauna. Jim Corbett (India’s oldest national park) is located here, as are Valley of Flowers and Nanda Devi national parks, which together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the summer, elephants can be seen in herds of several hundred. Leopards are found in areas which are abundant in hills but may also venture into the lowland jungles. Smaller felines here include the jungle cat, fishing cat, and leopard cat. The Valley of Flowers is home to 520 species of higher flora, of which 498 are flowering plants. Evergreen oaks, rhododendrons, and conifers predominate the hills, while sal (Shorea robusta), silk cotton tree (Bombax ciliata), and Bauhinia variegata (camel’s foot tree) are also found here.

Fig.1.1.1.1: Uttarakhand is a land of untouched natural beauty and sublime spirituality.

The place that not only boasts of a scintillating view of the Himalayas but also exhibits a cultural ethos which speaks of a simplistic and harmonic coexistence with nature. Ancient temples, forest reserves, national parks, hill stations, and mountain peaks offers a glimpse into an untainted and idyllic world.

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Fig.1.1.1.2: As one stroll across the roads enjoying the landscape, one can find numerous dried pine fruits of various sizes along the way.

1.2. KOTDWAR Situated on the banks of the Khoh river, Kotdwar town lives up to its old name or Khohdwar, which means gateway to the river Khoh’. It is also popular among pilgrims due to its proximity to several Hindu temples.

Fig.1.2.1: Kotdwara (Kotdwar) is located at the foothills of the Shivaliks at a distance of 101 km from Pauri. It is the entrance to hills in Pauri region of Uttarakhand, and literally means ‘Gateway to Garhwal’’.The winter season brings out the beauty in the vast flora across the region and it is one such beautiful place where the rambans cluster’s main office is located.

Fig.1.2.2: The most famous Sidhbali Temple located about 2 km away from Kotdwar.

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1.2.1. CLIMATE Since Kotdwar is surrounded by lush green hills and deep valleys, the weather remains pleasant throughout the year. The nearby hilly regions often get snowfall during winter but the temperature in Kotdwar is not known to fall below freezing. Summer temperatures can often reach 43 °C whereas winter temperatures are usually between 4 and 20 °C. During the monsoon season, there is often heavy and protracted rainfall. The weather is considered to be good during winter in the hilly regions.

Fig.1.2.1.1: Kasyali is a Village in Yamkeshwar Block in Pauri Garhwal District of Uttarakhand State, India. It is located 44 KM towards west from District head quarters Pauri. 11 KM from Yamkeshwar. 71 KM from State capital Dehradun 57.3 KM from Kotdwar.

Fig.1.2.1.2: There are about 93 houses in Kasyali village with the total population of 338 people of which 146 are males while 192 are females. The village is 111st least populous village and also 13th smallest village by area in the sub district The local language over there is Hindi or garhwali. Most of the females are farmers.

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1.3. KASYALI Kasyali village is located in Yamkeshwar Tehsil of Garhwal district in Uttarakhand, 15km away from sub-district headquarters Yamkeshwar and 134 km away from district headquarters Pauri.

OVERVIEW OF KASYALI VILLAGE Basic Country

India

State

Uttarakhand

District

Garhwal

Sub District

Yamkeshwar

Area

0.16km sq.

Forest

0.01km sq.(6%)

Panchayat

Thanur

Sub District HQ

Yamkeshwar(14km)

District HQ

Pauri(136km)

Nearest Town

Dogadda(43km)

Pincode

246121

Demographics

Population Population Density Growth Of Population Sex Ratio Sex Ratio Child Literacy Rate Male Literacy Rate Female Literacy Rate

123 769 per km sq.

66.2% 1365 1700 82% 95% 72% 06

CHAPTER - 2 LOOKING BACK

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2.1. HISTORY OF THE RAMBANS CLUSTER In Kotdwar, we visited Girish Grih Udyog Evam Resha Uttpadan Samiti. It is an NGO which has been working dedicatedly with this fibre since 1982 for the conservation of local ecology, and degraded or wasteland management through Rambans plantation.

Sri Satish Kandwal introduced Rambans fibre to his village of Kimsar (101km from kotdwar),which he came to know and learned about in 1982 at a research centre in Orissa. He initially planted Rambans over five hectares in Kimsar village to harness the plant’s capabilities as a soil binder to prevent erosion and landslides. Other villagers followed same once its advantages came to the fore.

Fig.2.1.1: Girish Grih Udyog Evam Resha Uttpadn Samiti office Kaleshwar Press, Badrinath Marg, Kotdwar Pauri Garhwal, Uttarakhand. The building is on the main road and easily accessible.

Fig.2.1.2: The main office in kotdwar where the rambans products are made and stored.

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2.2. INFRASTRUCTURE GIRISH GRIH UDYOG EVAM RESHA UTTPADN SAMITI Over the years women were trained to make the products and further carry out its mass production in this workplace. The products and explorations are all maintained and stored well in this building. It also has stitching machines and storage space. During the production time, artisans do the stitching and make the products. The building has 1 office, 4 rooms and 1 storage area.

There are 4-5 stitching machines and a few storage racks and boxes.

Fig.2.2.1: The Rambans cluster infrastructure of kasyali village, where the women come together to get trained and work.

The space is surrounded by hills and vegetable fields. This was earlier a govt. Gram sabha building and has 1 spacious room and 1 toilet. The room can accommodate 20-25 women. Outside the building there is open space where large number of artisans can spread durries and work together. Artisans do clean the space before leaving the workspace everyday.

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2.3. GOVT. AND NON-GOVT. ORGANISATIONS NGOs are working with government and other support agencies to help the people to improve their living standards. They also organize vocational training programmes, village development programmes etc. Several NGOs have been working with the fiber for the past several years, such as Women’s Development Organisation, WDO, DehraDun, Girish Griha Resha Udyog, Kotdwar, and HOPE, Pilkholi Ranikhet. They have demonstrated successfully the commercial potential of rambans fiber handicrafts

Fig.2.3.1: Training programme carried out for the women artisans under the guidance of Mr. Sandeep kandwal in Kasyali village

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CHAPTER - 3 PEOPLE OF KASYALI

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3.1. DEMOGRAPHICS People of Kasyali village are known as Garhwali.

A large portion of the population in the village is Rajput, Brahmins and also scheduled caste. 37% population engaged in either main or marginal works. 27% male and 44% female population are working population. 23% of total male population is full time workers and 4% are part time workers. For women 13% of total female population is main and 31% are marginal workers. The major source of income is agriculture.

Fig.3.1.1: Kasyali village is nestled amidst the beautiful foothills of the Garhwal Himalayan ranges.

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3.2. SOCIO CULTURAL ASPECTS

Fig.3.2.1: An 85 year old women in kasyali village, in the regular outfit worn by the localites taking a stroll in the evening.

Most of the women in the village indulge in farming activities. By evening they wind up their work and head for home.

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3.2.1. CLOTHING

3.2.2. FOOD

In the Garhwal region, women usually wear sari tied in a particular way, the pallu going from the front and knotted on the shoulder, with a waistband made of cloth. They also wear a headscarf to protect their hair from damage and to carry the harvest. Now-a-days they also prefer to wear salwar kameej and dupatta. The most common attire of the Garhwali men are kurta and pyjama or kurta and churidar, depending on their age. This is paired with a topi by the young or pagadi by the older men. A lot of men also started wearing suits after the influence of the British.

The primary food of Garhwal region is vegetables with wheat being a staple, although non-vegetarian food is also served. Coarse grain with high fibre content is very common in Uttarakhand due to the harsh terrain. Crops most commonly associated with Garhwal region of the state are Buckwheat (locally called Kotu or Kuttu) and the regional crops, Maduwa and Jhangora etc. Generally, either Desi Ghee or Mustard oil is used for cooking food.

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3.2.3. FAIRS AND FESTIVALS Some of the festivals celebrated in the Garhwal region are Basant Panchami, Bhitauli, Harela, Phool Dei, Batsavitri, Ganga Dusshera or Dasar, Dikar Puja, Olgia or Ghee Sankranti, Khatarua, Ghuian Ekadashi, Chhipla Jaat, Kandali, Janopunya, Kumaon Holi (including Khari Holi and Baithaki Holi) and also Makar Sankranti (Ghughutia). In addition, various fairs like Kumbh mela, Kanwar Yatra, Kandali Festival Ramman, Harela mela, Kauthig, Nauchandi Mela, Giddi Mela, Uttarayani Mela and Nanda Devi Raj Jat Mela take place.

3.2.4. ARCHITECTURE

Fig.3.2.4.1: Old traditional ancestral houses built beautifully and maintained across the terrains, Garhwal region.

Most of the people of kasyali live in vernacular houses locally constructed by using conventional building materials like mud, stone and timber.

The characteristic features of the traditional architecture found in this region are dictated by the immense availability of stone and timber in the areas. The walls are typically made of stone while the timber is used for the structural purposes and the slates are used for roofing. The floors are made of wooden planks, stone slabs or mud. The traditional houses are built along the contours of the hills and are generally of two or three floors.

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3.2.5 OCCUPATION Major source of income of people is farming and agriculture. Farmers who cultivate Rambans fibre also indulge themselves in practicing craft to earn their livelihood. They make various handicraft products like basket, rope, hat, coaster, mat etc using their skill set. Once the working hours come to an end in the evening, they take the craft essentials home from where they take out time and finish it off.

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CHAPTER - 4 RAMBANS

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4.1. ABOUT THE FIBER Rambans is a xerophytic, monocarp, semi-perennial leaf fibre producing plant. Rambans fibers are mainly obtained from Agave sisalana, which belongs to the genus Agave of the family of Agavaceae in which there are also other species such as Cantala, Veracruz, Americana, Augustifolia etc. The life span of this crop is generally 12-14 years. A healthy rambans plant produce about 250-300 leaves during its life span. Every year about 25-30 blades can be harvested from a plant, having the leaf of 1-1.2 m length and 1016 cm width. Each leaf has an average of around 1000 fibres. .After the mother plant attains 12 years, it produces bulbils and then perishes within a year. Plant propagation is through bulbils or root suckers. The rambans fibers are lustrous, usually creamy white, average from 80 to 120 cm in length and 0.2–0.5 mm in diameter.

Fig.4.1.1: The plant has short stem bears rosette of leaves that are sessile, linear lanceolate attains a length of 1-1.5 m or more. leaves are thick, fleshy and often covered with waxy layer. Sisal fibre is extracted from the mature leave blades of Agave sislana which is a tropical shrub. It takes about 3-4 years for a plant to reach maturity. They can grow up to six feet long.

Fig.4.1.2: Within the leaves are long fibrovascular bundles that’s help support the plant so that they sit upright. After 12-13 years of life cycle, it produces a large flowering stalk/ pole of 8-12 m tall and plant dies

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4.2. FIBRE HISTORY Rambans fiber derived from the long, green leaves of the 'agave sisalana' cactus plant. The word Agave is derived from the Greek word agauos, signifying admirable and magnificent. Agave’s lineage dates from 1748 where it was included in a group of vegetable species of the family Amarilidaceoe, a sub family of Agavoideoe Pax. The Agave plants are among the most predominate native plants from the hot semi desert regions in the western hemisphere. The agave plants became known in Europe following the conquest of Mexico by Spain. Agave Sisalana is a sister plant to Agave Azul, which is the source of tequila.

The sisal (Rambans) plant itself has its origin in the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico where it is known by the Mayan name Yaxci. Since its discovery, the sisal plant has been disseminated throughout the world. It was introduced in Tanzania in 1893 and Brazil around 1900.

The Portuguese introduced rambans ďŹ ber in India around 1825. It is the only crop that resists the semi arid climate and which is economically feasible in the infertile and wasteland regions of the country. Rambans plants in India can be found mainly in the states of Orissa, Madhya Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Andhra Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Maharashtra, Karnataka, and Tamilnadu. Brazil is the largest world producer rambans.

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4.3. CULTIVATION AND HARVESTING 1. PLANT PROPAGATION • Through Bulbils • Through Root suckers On average, a rambans plant generates 500–2,000 bulbils. These bulbils are collected and grown in nurseries. Rambans also produces suckers, which can be used for propagation. Suckers that begin to emerge from the second year of planting can be dug out and removed to be raised in a nursery.

Fig.4.3.1: Plant propagation through root sucker. Once the plant is completely mature, its roots stimulate the growth new suckers. After the suckers are a bit developed and stabilized its then later displaced to any nearby nursery where its nurtured well until it’s ready for plantation.

Fig.4.3.2: Propagation of rambans by using bulbils produced from buds in the flower stalk

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2. NURSERY RAISING Bulbils or suckers can be collected about 6–8 months prior to the planting and are raised in nursery beds with a spacing of about 25 * 25 cm sq. The growth of bulbils is improved by mulching nurseries with grass, paper or polythene. The nursery needs irrigation throughout and weeding in nursery beds is necessary. The nursery incubation period is about 8 months depending upon the growth and vigor of the bulbils/suckers. The size of bulbils or suckers should be 40–50 cm in length and weigh about600–1,000 g at the time of planting.

Fig.4.3.3: Rambans plants are incredibly independent species of plants. However it requires a bit of attention during its early stages of growth. The rambans suckers are grown and nurtured in the nursery with urea, dap, fungicides (if needed), organic compost and water provided till they are independent. The suckers were planted in September 2019 at Jaihari village in 1.5 -2 hectares and in it are grown around 30,000 suckers. It took around 14 days and 10 women farmers to clean the farm and plant the suckers.

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Fig.4.3.4: A women farmers from kasyali village planting a rambans sucker in her farm for further cultivation. The suckers are collected from the nursery by the organization and distributed to the local women farmers for them to plant and nurture it.

Fig.4.3.5: The women of kasyali village have been newly introduced to the rambans plantation. They have been given a detailed introduction about the fiber and also about its processing from the fiber stage to it being made into a product. The women of kasyali thus start the plantation of the sucker at their plantation site during the monsoon season (June-July).

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3. CLIMATE SUITABILITY The rambans plant is drought resistant and tolerant of a variety of soils and climates, hence can flourish even in the arid and semiarid regions and sub humid tracts covering major parts of India. The rambans plant prefers well-drained and aerated soils because it is extremely sensitive to water logging and intolerant to marshy lands. It can thrive in prolonged drought conditions and can survive at a low annual rainfall of 40–300 cm also. It can withstand temperatures up to 40–50C.

4. LAND PREPARATION Land clearance, removal of boulders and rubble, plowing of land, and digging out pits are the basic requirements. Soil conservation contour bunds or field bunds can be utilized for rambans plantations with the excavated soil serving as support. Placing the excavated soil along cattle proof trenches can also serve as support to rambans plants. Arrangement of lines should be kept across the soil slopes and as parallel to contours as possible for effective soil and water conservation and better survival of the plant

5. SPACING AND PLANTATION The right time for rambans planting is 20–30 days ahead of the rainy season. Rambans plantation can be done either in single rows or in double rows. A spacing of 2x1meter square corresponding to 5,000 plants/ha in a single row system is convenient and economical. The depth of plantation may be kept at 6–8 cm. About 2–3% of the total rambans planted should be available for gap filling in the event of initial mortality.

6. MANURING Rambans plantations require manuring majorly during initial stage, majorly at the time of nursery

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Fig.4.3.6: The commercial rambans plantations are done in rows with a specified plant-to-plant distance need preferably good land preparation like any other plantation crops.

The right time for the plantation is 20-30 days ahead of the rainy season.

raising. Organic compost, DAP(Diammonium phosphate) to provide fibre strength and urea is used for length of the plant. Fungisites are often used to removes fungal infections.

7. IRRIGATION AND DRAINAGE Rambans plantations require moderate irrigation in the ďŹ rst year immediately after plantation for proper establishment in case of severe drought or if the rains are interspersed with prolonged dry periods. Once established, rambans plantations do not require irrigation. Rambans plantations may not tolerate water logging and hence require proper drainage during continuous heavy rains and oods.

8. WEED CONTROL Removal of weeds and obnoxious plants, especially during the initial stage of plant growth, is advised as weeds compete for survival with rambans. Excessive weed competition leads to pale rambans due to nutrient deficiency. Hand weeding may be done depending upon the intensity of weed infestation and growth.

Fig.4.3.7: Removal of weed and obnoxious plants especially during the initial stage of plant growth is advised as weeds compete for survival with rambans .Excessive weed competition leads to pale rambans due to nutrient deficiency. Hand weeding may be done as per the intensity of weed infestation and growth.

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9. HARVESTING OF THE LEAVES The rambans plant is ready for harvest after 2–3 years of planting. A rambans leaf is considered to be mature for harvest when it attains a length of about 1.0 m and forms an angle of about 60with the main spike or when the color of the terminal spine changes to ash brown.

A straight knife with a wooden handle is generally used to cut the leaves. It is better to nip the terminal spines before cutting the leaves.

Harvesting should be initiated always from the lowermost whorls to the upper side; about 25 leaves are spared after the first cut and about 20 leaves at each subsequent cut. Where growth is unsatisfactory, more leaves are left after each cut.

Depending upon the growth, vigor, and maturity of the leaves, 2–3 cuttings per year may be undertaken..

After cutting, the spike at the tip of the leaf is removed and leaves are bundled for transportation to the decortication site. This must be carried out as soon as possible since the cut leaves soon deteriorate if left exposed to the sun and decortication will become difficult.

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Fig.4.3.8: Bundling of Rambans blades Once the plant is mature enough for cutting and extraction after 2.5-3 years, 12-15 Leaves are cut from every plant with each leaf grown to approximately 24-30 inches in length. The leaves are put together in bundles with 25-30 leaves per bundle.

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4.4. FIBRE EXTRACTION There are three methods used for extracting the fibers.

RETTING Water retting is a traditional biodegradation process involving microbial decomposition (breaking of the chemical bonds) of rambans leaves, which separates the fiber from the pith. The fibers are washed and processed further. This process takes 15–21 days for a single cycle of extraction and degrades the quality of fiber. Retting is a very slow, water intensive process, unhygienic, and not eco-friendly. Fibre extracted by this method is poor in quality BOILING In this method leaves of rambans plant are boiled, subsequently beating is done then after washing and sun drying we may get the usable clean fiber. This method is not suitable for large-scale extraction.

MECHANICAL METHOD Mechanical extraction involves inserting leaves into the Decorticator machine and pulling the raw material out. A safe mechanical extraction method, this process does not deteriorate the fiber quality and is suitable for small-scale operations. The Decorticator, run by an electric motor, is efficient, versatile, safe for labor, and cost- effective; it takes minimum time and is an eco-friendly process. In addition, residues are available after extraction of fibre of which about 96% is useful for other applications like biogas generation, composting. The residue is also used for making paper, paperboard, and biodegradable polymer, wax, etc.

Fig.4.4.1: Extraction of the rambans leaves through the decorticator machine in Duggada block Man and women both are involved in this process. The fibre must be extracted as soon as possible after the leaf has been cut; if the leaf is allowed to dry, the fibre is easily damaged during the cleaning process

After decortication, the next processing stages of rambans preparation include water washing, binding, cleaning, drying and final cleaning.

Fig.4.4.2: After extraction process, the fibers are left under the sun for drying. It takes 2-3 days to dry the fibre and then its is bundled and stored in sacks

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4.5. DYEING The process is carried out with basic products available from the market for easier availability and simplified steps to be carried out for the dyeing of the fiber. The colors majorly used are saffron, green and yellow. The dyeing of rambans fibers doesn’t require any sophisticated mechanism and can be carried out by any artisans on a limited space easily.

Fig.4.5.1: The pale yellowish/shiny white fibers are raw Rambans fibers in bundles ready for dyeing. The fibers are 1-1.5mtrs long, stiff, thick, uneven and strong. The texture of the fibre ensures that it absorbs dyes easily and offers the widest range of dyed colours among all the other natural fibers.

Price- Rs.150/kg Fig.4.5.2: Food colour is used to colour the fibers from the cluster. Ajanta food colours are used which they source from Kotdwar along with other required ingredients for dyeing such as white vinegar.

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Fig.4.5.3: They prepare the dye bath and heat it till it reaches a temperature of 40C. Add the requisite amount of Food colour and white vinegar in the dye bath. Raise the temperature of the dye bath until it is 80C. All the while care should be taken to see that the material in the dye bath is stirred from time to time so that the dyeing is even. Once the dye bath reaches 80C add salt to the dye bath in three equal installments at 10 minute intervals. Continue to stir the material in the dye bath from time to time till the fibers are evenly dyed.

Fig.4.5.4: Mixing food color, white vinegar and salt together in boiling water and then stirring with a stick. Once the dye bath is ready the rambans fibers are dipped in the solution.

Fig.4.5.5: The dyed fibers are collected from the steaming hot water with a stick and spread across to cool down and dry up.

Fig.4.5.6: After dyeing the rambans fibers are segregated slightly and left to dry for a day under the sun.

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4.6. ABOUT THE CRAFT The handicrafts made from rambans fibers have gained popularity in Uttarkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh and other states of India, where the plant is found in plenty and its multiple usages are known to locals. The craft has been practised in Uttarakhand since a long time now.

With upcoming technology being competitive with the handicraft industry, the local government authorities, organisations and people like Mr. Sandeep Kandwal help the indigenous craft survive and thrive more into the industry by giving better guidance and opportunities for the artisans. Utilising basic methods such as obtaining strands from leaves, dyeing those with hues of rich color, and finally knitting, braiding, twisting and crocheting the colorful fibers into artefacts these handicrafts provide with lucrative opportunities to craftsmen.

4.6.1 PEOPLE INVOLVED People involved in the rambans craft are master artisans, farmer artisans and people from NGOs who take initiatives for the upliftment of the craft.

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Fig.4.6.1.1: Mr. Sandeep Kandwal - He has been in the handicraft sector working on rambans for over a decade now. Being a native of the place he utilises his social connections to spread awareness and encourages women artisans for active participations in the workshops and training sessions held in every villages time to time.

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Fig.4.6.1.2: Mrs. Yashoda Devi - She is one of the senior most artisans who has an experienced background in the field. She accompanies Mr. Sandeep Kandwal and visits various villages where she constantly trains other women artisans and help them develop their skills by guiding them right.

Fig.4.6.1.3: Group of women farmer as well as artisan from different villages of Yamkeshwar cluster. They are also engaged with rambans farming and product development to increase the potentiality of the rambans fiber in the handicraft industry.

NMHS(a central sector) provides Skill Building Trainings to the communities for livelihood support and controlling outmigration. For this proposed series of meetings are done with villagers to finalize suitable time for skill building trainings.

Fig.4.6.1.4: Farmer and an artisan working with the rambans organisation. She is alays excited to learn something new. She had made this sling bag for the first time and she is so excited about it

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Mrs. Usha Devi (Age: 45)

Mrs. Rakhi Devi (Age: 26)

Mrs. Meena Devi (Age: 45)

Mrs. Vimla Jakhmola (Age: 49)

Mrs. Rajeshwari Devi (Age: 50)

Mrs. Prameela Devi (Age: 30)

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They are farmer and artisans from Kasyali and Baghel village. They learnt rambans craft and they are also skilled with stitching, knitting, bamboo craft, crochet work, rope making etc. They work in different groups which is called Swayam sahayata samuh (self help group).

These self help groups come as a major financial respite for womens in these regions. Some of the groups of Baghel village are- Jagriti swayam sahayata samuh, Jai maa durga swayam sahayata samuh, Thal nadi maha dev sayam sahayata samuh etc. Their first self help group was formed in the year 2018. Each group has 10-15 members, they distribute the work amongst themselves.

4.6.2 RAW MATERIAL Dye Colors And Stationaries The raw materials are all simple products available around the locality in the nearby towns. The required craft items required for the making of the handicraft products are sourced from the nearby town named Kotdwar. Food color, white vinegar, dried fibers extracted from the plant, a basic vessel to carry out the process of dyeing. The essentials required for the making of the handicraft are thread, needles, trims and a sewing machine.

Tools Most of the times the required items and tools are procured from the nearby town called Kotdwar.

The material list mainly consists of rambans suckers, darhanti (sickle), favda (shovel) for plantation .

Food color, white vinegar, dried fibres extracted from the plant, a basic vessel to carry out the process of dyeing. The only essentials required for the making of the handicraft are thread, needle, trims and a sewing machine.

Fig.4.6.2.1: Kudaal(mattock) A mattock is a hand tool used for digging, prying, and chopping. Similar to the pickaxe, it has a long handle and a stout head which combines either a vertical axe blade with a horizontal adze (cutter mattock) or a pick and an adze (pick mattock).

Fig.4.6.2.2: Favda (shovel) This tool is used to dig up the soil. During the process this tools helps the farmer break down the lumps in the soil and even it up. The farming tools are available in Kotdwar. Its the main town where most of the things are available.

Fig.4.6.2.3: L-Darhanti (sickle) This tool is used by the farmers for harvesting of the rambans and to clean the weed.

Fig.4.6.2.4: R-Kulhaadee (hatchet) Its a single-handed striking tool with a sharp blade on one side used to cut and split wood. A hatchet is a miniature version of an axe, inspired by an axe, capable enough to be used for more than splitting and trimming shingles.

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4.6.3 TECHNIQUES FOR MAKING THE BASE 1. BRAIDING A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by interlacing two or more strands of flexible material. In the process of braiding the rambans fibers the most simple and commonly used technique is a flat, three-stranded structure. The native artisans who have been practicing this technique to form the base also use more complex patterns that can be constructed from an arbitrary number of strand to create a wider range of structures. The structure is usually long and narrow.

Fig.4.6.3.1: The fibers are braided together and wound across the toes as the length keeps on extending. The strands are made in different widths according to the product to be made.

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Fig.4.6.3.2: A women artisan joining fibers bunches together to extend the length of the braided rope to make products .

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Fig.4.6.3.3: Trimming the extra fibers to smoothen the braids.

Fig.4.6.3.4: The fibers are braided into different sizes of cords and ropes for making different varieties of products. The finer braided cords which have a thickness of 4mm are used to make different varieties of jewelery products. The slightly thicker one than the other which is of 7mm thickness is stitched together to make small baskets, coasters and bottle holders. The thickest braided ropes which are of 10mm is used to make handbags and handles of handbags and bottle holders.

The ropes of this thickness is utilised in making handles of the above mentioned products also by braiding it with 6 strands or by stitching the strands together.

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2. STITCHING

3. TWISTING

In textile arts, a stitch is a single turn or loop of thread, or yarn. It's one of the most fundamental elements. Once the fibers are braided or twisted into a thin rope they are stitched together using rambans fibers or using threads of similar colours. The are stitched carefully and neatly to make products like earrings, coasters, small boxes etc.

The art of twisting the fibers into fine rope can be done by very few artisans. Its an interesting method where the fibers once dyed and dried are formed into a bent, curling shape and twisted together into fine ropes which are braided or stitched together to make different products .

Fig.4.6.3.5: Finely braided cords of rambans fibers are stitched together to make strong binding amongst the braided ropes thus making it long lasting. This process is an extremely intricate one where either the fibers or threads are used to sew the cords together.

Fig.4.6.3.6: Women artisan learning and exploring other knotting techniques for product variations.

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4. KNITTING

The artisans transform the fibers to textiles by using the technique of crochet hook to interlock loops of the procured and dyed fibers. The technique being very easy many women artisans are able to put in their own creativity into the processing of the products.

Some of the artisans expertise in knitting. With the climate conditions of Uttarakhand being very cold most of the women are taught knitting. Fibers are knitted together using various interesting knits applied to form creative textures on the final products.

Fig.4.6.3.7 - Fig.4.6.3.8: Mrs. Lakshmi Devi making a product using the method of crochet and knitting. She is proficient in crochet and knitting techniques and has been working with various crafts.

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Fig.4.6.4.1: A detailed look on how the braided cords are being stitched together in circular form to make products such as bags, baskets, coasters etc. The artisans use rambans fibers or matching threads for sewing together the braided cords and twisted yarn

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Fig.4.6.4.2: The cords are stitched together, moulded and shaped according to the design of the product.4-5 strands of Rambans fibers are used for stitching the cords and it takes about 5-6 hours for a artisan to make this specific size.

4.6.4 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT The product development is always done keeping in mind the market research and market demand set forward with the help of the exhibitions held and store reviews submitted by the customers. The organisation constantly works with different designers who work with the artisans and keeping in mind their skillset and time limit, they come up with new designs for the products which is production friendly.

4.7. STORAGE The fibers once extracted are dried and dyed are converted into various beautiful handicraft products using different methods. Once the products are finished well they are transported to the main office in Kotdwar. The office has the facility to store the handicraft products along with the woven and stitched sheets of rambans. There are also well maintained shelves for preserving the fiber sheets. The products are well maintained and stored there till they are transported to the shops and for exhibitions.

Fig.4.6.4.3: All the women artisans who attend the workshop classes are divided into groups, which they do it themselves depending on their ease in making the handicraft product. Each group focuses on a set of products and by supporting each other to finish the products.

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CHAPTER - 5 PRODUCT RANGE

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Fig.5.1: The product range developed by using the rambans sheets as a base material.

Also they are light weight, flexible and durable.

Hat Price 910 Rs. Sling Bag Price 1138 Rs

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Fig.5.2: A small basket made by the women artisans of Kasyali village with the yellow dyed fibers of rambans after braiding it finely. The artisans are women who practice farming for their livelihood. The product has been made by the stitch method where in the braided chords are stitched together using rambans fiber or with a thread of similar color. Small tassels are made using the same fibre and are attached to the edges around the basket.

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Fig.5.3: The sling bag is made by one of the artisan who is skilled with the knitting technique. The base is knitted directly using the fibers dyed in yellow and green color. Its made in the Kasyali cluster. Once the base material is made it is folded and stitched together, this step is followed by the next step where once the base body of the product is made, the flap of the bag is knitted in triangle shade. The handle is braided with the braided cords and then later attached to the bag thus finishing up the product.

Fig.5.4: The braided chords for the product making is also made in multi colors where fibers of different colors are braided together. Later on colorful fibers of rambans are wound up around the cords then stitched together. While stitching the artisan simultaneously also works on maintaining the circular shape of the product while it’s been made. The process of stitching continues till the desired size is attained.

Fig.5.5: These tasseled earring are made using beautifully braided fine chords where fibers of different colors are braided together. Once the different colors of fibers are put together in the chord it is then patiently stitched together to form the base of the earrings.

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Fig.5.6: A small container made by stitching together the twisted rope procured from the rambans fibers. Twisted rope construction involves twisting fibers together to form chord like structure. For twisted rope, the yarn is then twisted into strands, and the strands twisted into rope. Three-strand twisted rope is the most common construction

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Fig.5.7: A small mat made by stitching together the braided rope procured from the rambans fibers. These fibers are dyed first into T various colours and then made into braids in order to make attractive handicraft products.

Fig.5.8: Traditional Garhwali Kumaoni Topi ( Himalayan Cap) made from the rambans sheets decorated with bright red colored velvet fabric usually worn by men across the state .

Price 759 RS.

Fig.5.9: Set of earrings and necklace made using stitching together braided chords of rambans fibers. For their handmade jewelery range, they use various kinds of beads such as wooden and metal ones, which they source from their local market.

Fig.5.10: The women also experiment with interesting handicraft products made for children. The sheets of rambans are stitched together in various shapes as per the design requirement to form a toy. They use various little details like beads and piping to finish the end product.

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CHAPTER - 6 PERSONALITY

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6.1. FIBRE SPECIFICATIONS Rambans is the leading material for agricultural twine due to its durability, strength, ability to stretch, resistance to deterioration in saltwater and affinity for certain dyestuffs. It has high strength, bright shiny color, large staple length, poor crimp property, variation in properties and quality due to the growing conditions. It is a biodegradable renewable resource, and it provides thermal and acoustic insulation. Besides twines, ropes and general cordage, ambans is used in specialty paper, buffing cloth, dartboards, geotextiles, filters, carpets, mattresses, Macrame and wire rope cores. It is used as environmentally friendly strengthening agent to replace fiberglass, asbestos in composite materials in various uses including automobile industry in different countries.

In India different species of Rambans are available and grown. Mainly 4 species were available for cultivation, they are (a) Agave sisalana/Rambans – the smooth-leaved variety (b) Agave cantala or Bombay aloe fibre (c) Agave tequilana with thick fleshy, bluish leaves yielding (d) Agave wightii (the dwarf) aloe used in south India.

Fig.6.1.1:

bans

Agave sisalana/Ram-

Fig.6.1.3: Cantala is an evergreen tropical plant with lanceshaped leaves that grow directly from the stalk to form a dense rosette. The thick gray-green leaves are edged with sharp teeth and bear a terminal spine; they can reach about 2 metres (6.6 feet) in length. The plant is monocarpic, meaning that it dies after flowering, and the flowers are borne on a large stalk that can be more than 8 metres (26 feet) tall. The strands are white in colour and is shorter than rambans fibre in length.

Fig.6.1.2: Agave tequilana

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6.2. IDENTITY OF CRAFT Uttarakhand is rich in cultural heritage, which has been kept alive through the Arts and Crafts of Uttarakhand. The Handicrafts of Uttarakhand has the potential for great value-addition to the tourism industry of the region. The people of Uttarakhand have created and nurtured various forms of arts and crafts since ages. One of the major handicraft practiced in the region especially by the women is using the rambans fibers. The rambans plant has provided a livelihood and a way to preserve the culture and traditions though the handicraft products made using these fibers. Various products like coasters, bags, interior decor items are beautifully made by the women of Uttarakhand. Every product made has its own individuality that makes it stand apart.

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6.3. CATEGORIES OF PRODUCTS Rambans handicrafts comes in varied range of products. Each product line as various type and differently designed. The product categories include,

CAPS AND HATS

Accessories Daily utilities Home furnishings Bags, Purses and pouches Jewelleries Decorative items Ropes Paper

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BASKETS

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SMALL BOXES

COASTERS

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BAGS & POUCHES

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JEWELLERIES

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6.4. COLOUR AND EXPRESSION The colours play an extremely important part as it’s a visual oriented element which represents culture, lifestyle and traditions of the particular community that has been working on the craft for years. The villages of Uttarakhand blessed with the abundance of nature thrives with a vast diversity of flora and fauna. It’s quite natural for people to incorporate all these colours into their art and craft that they see in their day to day life. The majorly practised craft using the rambans fibers gives a great platform for the artisans to express themselves in terms of its visual form and color. Its a combination of earthy subtle colors with some bright colours added on for the detailing. All of it expresses the enthusiasm and liveliness in the artisans who are women from different age groups always coming forth to add an essence of themselves to each product they make. They also embrace the beauty of the colours in its natural form imbibed in the fibers which they celebrate by making beautiful products out of the fibers without dyeing it.

Fig.6.4.1: Mrs. Vimla Jakhmola, artisan from Kasyali village proudly showing her braided coaster made from the rambans fiber. They were provided with materials and dyes where they were taught more about the making of the products, by the end of the training session almost everyone had managed to make a final product.

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6.5. SOCIO ECONOMIC RELEVANCE Though rambans fibers is utilised by the artisans to create handicrafts, a large quantity of the economic and renewable resource is still under-utilised. The use of the fiber as a reinforcement material in composites can prove to be boon for the economy of Uttarakhand which is still a developing state. Apart from blended apparel and composites rambans can be used in low-cost speciality paper, non-wovens, filters, geotextiles, mattresses and carpets. The name rambans is widely popular in the region due to the active involvement of many people in the handicraft segment that has come up with the fibers extracted from the rambans plant. It has boosted up the region in terms of job opportunities and also help the women become independent and have their own share of income and savings.

The Himalayan region in India provides an example of a region rich in terms of natural resources that lagged behind in industrial development. Therefore utilization of plant fibers for employment generations in rural sector will prove to be cost effective and ecologically sustainable. In view of the large scale lack of employment opportunities in Uttarakhand and a need for empowerment of backward and tribal areas, village industries focusing on extraction and processing of natural fibers can generate enormous employment without much input.

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6.6. ECONOMIC VIABILITY Rambans fibre occupies 6th place among plant fibers, which represent 2% of the world’s production of plant fibers. A good rambans plant yields about 200 commercial used leaves with each leaf having a mass composition of 4% fibre, 0.75% cuticle, 8% other dry matter and 87.25% moisture. Thus a normal rambans leaf weighing about 600g yields about 3% by weight of fibre with each leaf containing about 1000 fibers. The fibre can be potentially used for making Cordage (rope, twine and yarn), Composite materials (automobile components, construction roofing and paneling materials), woven materials (carpets, bags and buffing cloth etc.), organic fertilizer, animal feedstock, industrial alcohol (ethanol), pharmaceutical products (Insulin), pulp and paper (specialty paper, reinforcement) and energy generation (biogas, electricity). Apart from fibre processing, allied activities like cultivation and fibre extraction are proven means of employment generation due to its labour intensive and low tech nature.

The rambans fibre and its allied activities like cultivation, fibre extraction, processing and making value added products are proven sources of employment opportunities and income generation. The extent of research and development activities on rambans plant, coupled with engineering applications like composites, automotives etc. indicates that trained artisan and women are able to sustain with the income generation through the rambans related activities thus making it a viable option for rural empowerment.

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6.7. SUSTAINABILITY AND WASTE MANAGEMENT

Fig.6.7.1: The structure of a biogas plant is made up of large “digester� tanks, which are covered over with a exible plastic membrane in which collects the biogas, and stores it until it is used. Smaller tanks store the feed materials, and pumps move it around through pipes as needed.

The rambans waste, which otherwise degrades in a landfill, and produces methane, a major greenhouse gas was successfully utilized in various rural areas of Uttarakhand. The endeavour helped in both the ways of increasing productivity and reducing the pollution level. Farmers are using the locally produced organic fertilizer sold at a very affordable price to increase the productivity of the land while conserving the soil.

The structured waste management system for the effective utilisation of the waste generated while processing the rambans leaves to a fiber has helped solve a major issue in the rural areas. The biogas is transferred to the cooking place like kitchen from the digester through a tube. Except electricity, biogas when compared to other fuels produces less pollution while cooking.

There is no requirement to wait for the heat after ignition. It is produced instantly. Byproduct of biogas is used as fertilizer. It helps in producing indoor light. So far 3 plants of biogas has been put up in the villages where the people utilise it efficiently.

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CHAPTER - 7 FUTURE PROSPECTS

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7.1. CURRENT SCENARIO The Rambans fibre and its related activities like cultivation, fibre extraction, processing and making value added handicraft products are proven sources of employment opportunities and income generation. Though it's a viable option for rural empowerment, there's still lack of awareness about the fibre amongst vast population. Because of this youth of hilly regions is migrating to other cities in search for employment. The growth of the rambans related activities and handicraft sector in the villages can create a potential opportunity for the youth to get a decent employment in the village itself.

These NGOs have started recognizing the importance of design inputs in their programs and how it can help them solve many of their issues and challenges. Thus they started collaborating with the design professionals from reputed institutions such as NIFT & NID to bring out fresh perspectives while keeping their original essence intact and design more customer oriented handicraft products in order to sustain and grow in the current market.

Currently in Uttarakhand, several NGOs such as Girish Griha Resha Udyog, Kotdwar, Women’s Development Organization, WDO, Dehra Dun, and HOPE, Pilkholi Ranikhet are coming forward and taking initiative of exploring commercial potential of Rambans fiber handicrafts. They are conducting various training programs and workshops for the upliftment of rural women.

The initiatives took by these NGOs are appreciable but still there are many gaps on which one should pay attention to. They export these handicraft products to various countries like New York, Germany, Australia, London, Switzerland, Denmark etc but due to less awareness amongst people, limited workforce and infrastructure they are not able to cater to large number of orders. Regular production doesn't take place. It is client based. Thus, the irregularity in the client demands in the domestic and international markets causes inconsistant pay scale for the artisans. There is a lack of proper management and distribution channel Many of these NGOs are not selling these products through E-Commerce.

Being in the era of social media and Online marketing, selling these rambans handicraft products through conventional methods is affecting their growth.

Fig.7.1.1: The training program attended by women of the Kasyali village to become self sufficient

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Fig.7.1.2: Meeting held with the officials and women of Kasyali village to discuss future planning and spread awareness regarding scope of rambans handicraft products

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Fig.7.1.3: Discussions were held to bring out more ideas for better products and steps to be taken to do further research

Fig.7.1.4: Training program carried out under the guidance of Mr. Sandeep Kandwal in Kasyali village

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7.2. SWOT ANALYSIS

S

W

• Minimum resources required for cultivation • Helps sustain and retain the environment • Can grow on rough terrains and under different climatic conditions • Less water required compared to other crops • Easy maintenance of crops for farmers • The leaf extracts can be used in various ways • Strong fiber • Sustainable fiber • Women Empowerment

• • • • • • •

WEAKNESSES

STRENGTHS

• • • • • • • • •

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Rough textured fiber Lack of cohesiveness Can’t be spun into yarn Has to kept away from moisture Lack of visibility in the market Less demand Less awareness about the importance and advantages of fiber amongst people Lack of design intervention as per market demand Lack of proper infrastructure Lack of unique products Lack of exposure Lack of skilled artisans and labourers Lack of basic infrastructural facilities; no computers in the village Lack of capital to showcase their talent Difficulty in receiving loans Irregular employment opportunity

O

T

• Job opportunities for the villagers thus reducing migration to cities • Development of infrastructure and transportation • More fiber can be produced because minimum resources are required for cultivation • Opportunities of design intervention as per market demand • Applications of Rambans Fiber Composites in Building • Automotive Applications • Electrical Application • Application of Rambans Fiber in Railways • Application of Rambans Fiber in Geo-textiles • Defense Applications • Application of Rambans Fiber in Packaging industry • Applications of Rambans pulp in handmade paper industry

• Co existence of similar Bhimal fibre with better properties • Similar product range easily acquired from other fiber sources as well • Lack of market visibility • Not able to keep up with the changing market trends • Monopoly resulting in the limited achievement

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

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7.3. CONFLICTS AND RESOLUTIONS The main problem artisans today are facing is a huge gap between artisans and the market. They are not having proper value chain system. In absence of proper value chain system and market channel artisans are not able to sell their products to final customer directly and they have to be dependent on a middleman or other channel partner. The middlemen and channel partner do not only eat the profit margin of poor artisans but also not allowing them to have any exposure of changing market trends.

Though a lot of people are able to sustain with the income generation through Rambans related activities, rambans still has very less effect on the economy of Uttarakhand. It has enough potential to be the base for the state econom­­­y, if more people start involving in Rambans fiber related activities.

Spinnability of rambans fibre has not been discovered in our country till now. Due to the less technological advancements rambans can't be utilized in producing woven fabric for different end uses such as garments and handicraft products.

Major hindrance in the growth of rambans allied activities are lack of proper management, distribution channel, infrastructure and exposure

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7.4. POLICIES • DEVELOPMENT COMMISSIONER (HANDICRAFTS) The Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) is the nodal agency in the Government of India for craft and artisan-based activities. It assists in the development, marketing and export of handicrafts, and the promotion of craft forms and skills. The assistance is in the form of technical and financial support, including in the form of schematic interventions implemented through its field offices. The office supports the artisans and the sector through different developmental schemes through its six regional offices at Mumbai, Kolkata, Lucknow, Chennai, Guwahati and New Delhi and its 62 field units.

• DEVELOPMENT OF SME'S Industrial Policy Uttarakhand has seen strong industrialization during the past years, but mainly in the plains. An Integrated Industrial Development Policy 2018 was launched in February especially for the industrial development of hilly and remote areas in the state. This policy has aimed at the economic development of the hill region. For small-scale industries, cottage, khadi and village industries, handicrafts, and the silk and handloom sectors, it assists them in modernization and technological upgrading and provide necessary common facilities and backward and forward linkages, including product design and marketing support so as to make them globally competitive and remunerative.

• PRIME MINISTER’S RURAL DEVELOPMENT FELLOWS SCHEME It is working to bring rural women closer to relevant markets and promote their wares in exhibitions and craft forums. Most of these craftsmen belong to Self-Help Groups (SHG)

• NATURAL FIBER CENTER OF EXCELLENCE The Uttarakhand government has decided to set up a centre of excellence in Almora district of Kumaon, for Himalayan fibre such as Rambans, Natal (Kandali), Bhang, Bhimal, Bhabar grass.

Ministry of Textiles has released a sum of Rs 20 crore as the first installment for the construction of the center. This center will be set up through the Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA). The state government has transferred one acre land for the center to the Textile Ministry. Last year, Textile Minister Smriti Irani held a meeting with the representatives of tourism, agriculture, culture and state government. She has asked this center to be developed in terms of tourism and culture. So that tourists coming from outside can be attracted to the products made from natural fiber. With the promotion of natural fiber, resources for livelihood will be available to people in mountainous areas.

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7.5. MARKET The Rambans clusters we had visited showcase and sell their products at IITF, Pragati maidan and other trade fairs. They also exhibit at various exhibitions and organize exhibitions at Dehradun, Almora, Mussoorie ans other cities..They sell the handicraft products through craft fairs, like Soorajkund craft fair. The products also get exported to various countries like New York, Germany, Australia, London, Switzerland, Denmark etc. They are still lacking e-commerce portal for selling the products online.

Uttarakhand Handloom & Handicraft Development Council (UHHDC) acts as the apex body for the overall development and promotion of handlooms and handicrafts in the state. It aims at generating sustainable employment opportunities in these sectors by promoting specialized products for commercialization.

To bring the vivid form of traditional handicrafts into limelight, the Uttarakhand Handlooms and Handicraft Development Council showcase the handicrafts at International Trade Fair at Pragati Maidan, which is a biggest platform and a good market.*

Fig.7.5.1: Exhibition at Pragati maidan IITF-2011

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Fig.7.5.2: Exhibition at Pragati maidan IITF-2012

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Fig.7.5.3: Exhibition at Delhi Haat 2013

7.6. REFLECTION Rambans fibre has a bright prospect for its versatile nature encompassing eco-friendliness, suitability for moderate waste lands, apt for changing climatic situation due to low water requirement, high water use efficiency, survival & economic output even in very high ambient temperature; it puts minimum pesticide load to the environment through its cultivation process, being semi-perennial and lower agro activity it conserves soil. Also, the handicrafts products the artisans make are versatile, durable and of good quality but it needs some designer input and requires design intervention. Rambans is the most viable option for employment opportunity and rural economic development in the tribal dominated and socio-economically less developed parts of the country. If the full potential of Rambans plantation is utilized, it will be of immense help in uplifting the economic conditions of the rural and tribals living around the forest areas in India .

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CONCLUSION Rambans is an important leaf fibre yielding plant and was introduced in India long ago and grown mainly for soil conservation purpose. Rambans needs natural materials and processes in the crafting process that help reduce carbon footprint, and make the manufacturing process more environmentally-friendly. They have a sustainable waste management and sustainable use of material. Rambans, known for its social and environmental contributions, has generated livelihoods in the state by its value as a ‘future fibre’.

In spite of its huge potential and demand of fibre in the country, adequate effort has not been given based on findings of research on Rambans for commercial fibre production. Although some good amount of research have been conducted on various aspects of this crop in India, but there was no comprehensive documentation of research on Rambans fibre production or on Rambans crafts. We went on field research, been there with farmers and artisans, got to know about strength and weakness and the actual scenario of rambans farming and craft practices.

Crafts which are existing right from pre-historic times are a matter of changing styles and techniques They are there for centuries together, some of them, basing on the popularity and patronization either fade or continue to the next generations. Rambans Craft, is practised in many states of India but still everyone is not aware of this craft. Awareness is the first most important thing that this craft needs.

Society i.e. common public also should take it as their responsibility to support the craft so that it can survive and flourish. The handcrafted rambans products may not be the attractive items for a local eye, but for a person coming outside of the region definitely become an attractive piece for possessing. For this, the Governments, both at Centre and State should come forward with new types of advertisements and stalls at Tourist points, at the Airports, in the popular hotels, souvenir shops etc. There is lack of product diversification, technological upgradation as well as availability of the capital. Artisans and Craft men should be aware of the new trends and technologies for their works so that they can understand the market and meet customers expectations. They need some design interventions, so that they can bring newness to the market but at the same time they should keep the authenticity of the craft to keep its uniqueness. New techniques in mechanization will improve the quality and quantity of production and it will also help in creating new product base, like woven base for a new range of woven products.

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Government should provide subsidized raw materials, electricity, machinery and infrastructure for the artisans to the required extent which is not being done now. The subsidies offered are being very nominal and are not in the encouraging range. The artisans should be given a minimum wage guarantee for the products they manufacture. Due to lack of potential demands in the market, the artisans doesn't get enough orders, so most of the time they do farming for their food and shelter or they are moving to urban areas looking for often low, unskilled employment.

The craft need advancement in distribution channels and increasing penetration of online retail, so that the handicraft products would become more visible and easily purchasable for the consumers around the globe

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