Cocktails and Cliffhangers
A BLUE MOUNTAINS ESCAPADE WORDS BY DORIAN MODE PHOTOGRAPHY BY LYDIA THORPE HISTORICAL PHOTOS LILIANFELS Yesterday we walked to “Look out Point” near which Sir Frederick Darley has built his Norwegian like villa Lilianfels. This is perhaps, one of the most beautiful mountain homes in the world, certainly the most beautiful in Australia. A magnificent view of bold mountain scenery is obtained from the verandah, which closely resembles that of Norway. The mountains are thickly wooded to their summits, and the great valleys which separate them look like immense undulating carpets worked in many shades of green. The roar of the Katoomba Falls is distinctly heard. – Sydney Social columnist 1894
Last week, a familiar figure from my past, an industry insider with a deep love for travel, made an appearance on ABC. He shared a revelation that the Blue Mountains is more than just a quick visit to the Three Sisters or a stay at Lilianfels. And, quite rightly, he’s spot on. There’s a treasure trove of experiences awaiting you. Yet, there’s something irresistible about Lilianfels. It’s as though, by some enchantment, Lilianfels encapsulates all your Blue Mountains dreams in one place. First a pocket history. Sir Frederick Darley, Chief Justice of New South Wales, oversaw the construction of a homestead in 1889, christening it “Lilianfels” in honour of his daughter, Lilian, who tragically succumbed to typhoid at the age of 22. This grand estate passed into the hands of the Vickery family, notable industrialists, farmers, merchants, and philanthropists. Today, Lilianfels has been transformed, serving as the site for ‘Darley’s’ restaurant, while the hotel opened 85 guest rooms in 1992. As you make your way up Lilianfels’ pristine white gravel driveway, your gaze is immediately drawn to the meticulously manicured gardens. The reception area, adorned with cascades of lavender wisteria, exudes an air of grandeur and hospitality. However, the fragrance that envelops Lilianfels is nothing short of pure luxury. It’s a scent that lingers in the senses, a fragrant ode to opulence.
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Upon stepping into our room at Lilianfels, I’m struck by the meticulous attention to detail that characterises this place. It’s the little touches that make all the difference. The vintage counterpane, harmoniously matched with the curtains that gracefully drape the brass bed, creates a sense of timeless charm. There’s even the delicate rose seal gracing the bog roll! It’s these subtle nuances that speak volumes, especially to the discerning eye. And it’s these nuances that elevate Lilianfels to its well–deserved status as the epitome of posh romantic retreats in the enchanting Blue Mountains. Savouring a jolly decent brew in the lounge downstairs is delightful. The ambiance is a fusion of two distinct worlds—a touch of old–world English club charm intertwined with the cosy, inviting atmosphere of a Laura Ashley– inspired living room. Soft furnishings envelop you as you sink into leather club lounges, creating a unique blend of comfort and sophistication that makes for a memorable and relaxed coffee break. Location Location Location. An allure of Lilianfels lies in its prime location, as foreshadowed in the words of the 19th– century social columnist I quoted who
Lilianfels Katoomba circa 1900
once graced the grand house. Nestled smack bang at Echo Point, you find yourself at the iconic lookout in a mere matter of seconds. And, in this breathtaking spot, Mother Nature scores a goal. The panoramic vista is nothing short of awe–inspiring. Amidst this scenic wonder, our gaze falls upon a solitary artist, perched with an easel and paint, fervently crafting a mediocre watercolour – is it the Three Sisters or Uluru? Later, we tackle the uphill trek to town by bus to a local eatery, and the journey back becomes a pleasant downhill saunter, leading us on a winding path of discovery. Back at our digs, with the allure of two inviting pools, one indoors and the other under the open sky, we meander from the bar in thick terry– towelling dressing gowns, G&Ts in hand, to surrender ourselves to the warm embrace of the water indoors. We float lazily on pool noodles, talking nonsense, basking in tranquil luxury until at 9pm we’re gently ushered away by the ever– friendly concierge–cum–pool attendant, folding striped towels in this chlorine– scented glasshouse. The next morning unveils a breakfast experience that surpasses most (I’ve
Lilianfels Darleys