The
r e v i R t e Se c r Navigating the serene waters of the Hawkesbury WORDS BY DORIAN MODE PHOTOGRAPHY BY LYDIA THORPE
European settlement along the Hawkesbury River commenced in 1794, as colonists established settlements near South Creek and along the riverbanks, unintentionally limiting access for the First Nations people. Governor Phillip initially opposed this due to the area’s isolation and lack of “suitable settlers”. However, more land was eventually granted, which significantly impacted the traditional custodians, the Darug and Darkinjung people. As Kate Melville wrote in “The Secret River,” there were no visible signs of ownership among the Indigenous people. Officially part of the NSW Central Coast, our journey through this richly historical landscape begins at Brooklyn, formerly known as Peat’s Ferry Crossing, named after the Union Bridge Company of Buffalo, New York, responsible for constructing the iconic bridge in 1889. This allowed Australians to traverse the river via train, although border crossings were not without complications. Before the bridge, the
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only access was by steam barge from Wondabyne, now one of Australia’s unique boat–only accessible stations, famously featured in the 2004 film, “Oyster Farmer.” Exploring the islands and settlements along the river offers diverse experiences. Renting a tinny or jet–ski (to release the inner bogan in you) provides a thrilling adventure, but for a more leisurely exploration for seniors, the Riverboat Postman offers a charming daily mail delivery service to remote water–access settlements, including lunch and afternoon tea. It represents great value for your coin. Throughout the cruise, the river unveils its historical narrative. Passing by Dangar Island with its post office and
As Kate Melville wrote in “The Secret River,” there were no visible signs of ownership among the Indigenous people bowling club, devoid of cars except for a red golf buggy and a lone wheelbarrow for schlepping luggage or shopping to your digs, offers a quirky island walk. And flanking Spectacle Island, once a site for corroborees, now stands as a nature reserve with a significant collection of rock art.
