Dearsouvenir Issue 02 by Dearsouvenir Magazine

D E A R S O U V E N I R

# 2

Finally weekend! BY THEA NEUBAUER & SANDRA ROTHFELD

PHOTO: misterandmissesdo.com

We have waited a little with our new edition of Dearsouvenir. For good reason! The last weeks and months, we have been listening to your feedback, have collected ideas and worked a lot on the concept, layout and contents for our travel and shopping magazine Dearsouvenir. Now we are extremely fond of our new issue 2 and hope that you like it as much as we do! This year, each issue will be published under a main topic and will combine different destinations inside the magazine. This one starts with the main topic #TGIF. A hashtag, which means „Thank God it‘s Friday“ and has become important especially because of thousands of pictures on Instagram and other Social Media channels in the recent years. Why did we choose this topic? A short trip to an unknown city or to a beloved destination throws us out of our normal life for a few moments during the weekend. Thus we can continue with fresh ideas and a little more rested the following Monday. Because work or our washing machine remains undone on

EDITORIAL

Sunday, while we can walk through the streets of Ghent (see our weekend trip) or admire cacti in Tucson. Of course we know that destinations such as Seoul or South Africa are no weekend destinations for Europeans. However Dearsouvenir strives to reach an international readership and for our followers from Los Angeles, Tucson might be accessible for a weekend trip after all. For all of our destinations we can promise: you will find enough to do the week after the weekend because there is so much to see. We do hope that you‘ll enjoy the layout and destinations (spread around the globe) and our other sections: Arrival – with all information there is about Friday, Departure – with our wonderful hand luggage style shooting and return – with ideas for your return back home. We look forward to hearing your feedback and thank all of our contributors who contributed to this edition. Now please enjoy the next weekend and send us some impressions by using the hashtag #Dearsouvenir!

Thea & Sandra

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# TGIF

TABLE OF CONTENTS FIND ALL OF OUR ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE - JUST CLICK ON THE LINE AND JUMP TO THE RIGHT PAGE

TGIF of the editorial team

Introduction: weasy – a travel platform for the weekend

The Friday – an infofeature

D E PA R T U R E 38

Travel from cheap to luxurious: A weekend in Barcelona

At home abroad: comparison of accomondations

Airbnb: The game of travel, places & the love of travel

Packpoint – When an app packs your bag

10 things that we never travel without

Take me away – Dearsouvenir hand baggage style shoot

TABLE OF CONTENT

A R R I VA L 104 Destination GHENT with our partner Provamel 160 Destination IRELAND 194 The Art of travelling … Visiting Ireland on a houseboat 204 Destination SEOUL 232 Destination TUCSON 262 Destination WEST COAST SOUTH AFRICA RETURN 292 Oddity of the issue: The Snail Mark 294 A weekend in your hometown 304 Cook your wanderlust – Traditional menus from Nigeria & Seoul 332 Open your bag please: Billie Ray Martin 336 When in Venice … Afterlife of a souvenir 344 Imprint DEARSOUVENIR

# TGIF

EDITORIAL

TRAVEL ROUTE OUR TRAVEL STORIES ARE LEADING US ACROSS THE GLOBE. JUST CLICK ON YOUR DESIRED DESTINATION AND JUMP TO THE FEATURE.

Destination IRELAND Jump to page Destination T U CSON Jump to page

Tips for BARCELONA Jump to page

Traditional menu NIGERIA Jump to page

EDITORIAL

Destination G HENT Jump to page

Traditional menu SO UTH KO R E A Jump to page

Tips for V ENICE Jump to page

Destination W EST COAST S O U T H AFRICA Jump to page

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Destination SEOUL Jump to page

INTRODUCTION

THE TEAM THE TEAM BEHIND DEARSOUVENIR - EVERYONE WHO HAS WORKED ON THIS ISSUE, DESIGNED PAGES, WROTE ARTICLES, PLANNED AND ORGANISED THIS ISSUE – IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER

Peter Bihr

Zoe Blechschmitt

Marie Darme

Publisher

Marketing

Design

Nina Förster

Wolfgang Macht

Helena Melikov

Content

Publisher

Design

Thea Neubauer Chief Editor & Design

Sandra Rothfeld Luisa Sancelean Managing editor & Content 8

Marketing

INTRODUCTION

Christina Schäferkord

Nadine Steinmetz

Design

Operations

Antonia Sutter Publisher & Marketing

SYMBOLS Dearsouvenir logo We took the outline of our logo and you can find this form throughout our issue as visual element. Shows external links to other websites, people‘s pages etc.)

Alex Sutter Sales

Shows a download (z.B. recipe card) Links to an Instagram account Symbol for contributors who worked on the text Symbol for contributors who worked on the photography End of an article DEARSOUVENIR

# tgif

mllerougechamp

peter bihr

thneu

me.helena

nina fรถrster

salon_connect

#TGIF FROM OUR EDITORIAL OFFICE

laurissimaa

louisancel

INTRODUCTION

#TGIF TEXT: Maureen Schneider

Thank

Goodness

American

it’s

heralding the weekend after

friday!

channel

ABC

long, gruelling days of work.

were the first to coin the term TGIF during the 80s and 90s.

Even

Famous shows like ″Full House“ and

″Sabrina

The

Instagram,

Twitter,

Facebook & Co have adopted the

Teenage

hashtag #TGIF, curating pictures

Witch“ were only two cogs in

of beautifully laid tables, friends

the wheel of Friday night prime

gathering for a meal and parties.

time television. In 1978, the movie ″Thank God It’s Friday“ premiered, offering the second

The point: get out and discover

version of the acronym TGIF.

your world because it’s your oyster, especially on Fridays.

Over

years

This

later,

issue

Dearsouvenir

shows you the best activities for

TGIF is more up to date everyone’s

your perfect weekend. Explore

favourite weekday has

new destinations, locations and

gained somewhat of a

events that will make every

than

bank

ever:

holiday

status,

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weekend seem like a vacation.

# tgif

INTRODUCTION

#TGIF

Playlist

New York!

By the way: we created a special TGIF-playlist on spotify for you! Tracks like Last Friday Night (T.G.I.F.) by Katy Perry, Hello Friday by Flo Rida ft Jason Derulo and Friday Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;m In Love by The Cure are only a few of your favourite friday evening songs. Your guarantee for a fun friday night as the start to the perfect party weekend.

ACCOUNT: DEARSOUVENIR PLAYLIST: #TGIF 12

NEW YORK!

#TGIF

Voices

WHAT DO YOU DO ON FRIDAYS?

Ricarda from 23qmStil would love to take of to New York every Weekend, the city that never sleeps especially not on a Friday night!

BERLIN Luisa our marketing expert loves that the days are getting longer now and that you can sit outside until late at night again. Perfect conditions for a night out on the town. She starts in Berlin with a glas of Ricard at the Silicon Drinkabout .

COPENHAGEN Jeanny, cookbook author and owner of the blog Zucker, Zimt und Liebe loves to travel on weekends and tries to come of the everyday life in Copenhagen or Groningen. The nordic countries just now how work the slow movement...

GLĂ&#x153;CKSPAKET Julia Danner: "Friday starts for me with writing my column Lucky bundle for the Weekend , where I travel virtually trough the world and radiate some weekend bliss."

HELLO

WEASY! CONCIERGE FOR WEEKEND TRAVELS

INTRODUCTION

WEASY TEXT: Nikolas Appels PHOTOS: weasy.travel

couldn’t be easier: get inspired,

Please introduce yourselves and your company “weasy” in a few

make your choice, and book. It is like a concierge for weekend

words.

trips which is what the market

We’re Niko and Alex, we’re both

had been lacking. The problem

27 years old and have known each

wasn’t with the options available

other since we went to school

out

together in Lugano. Alex studied

winded and very intransparent

firm while I finished a degree

process that required answers

Hospitality

Management at EHL in Zurich

many

questions:

Which

destinations are within driving

and then joined Centralway, a

distance? What are my possible

FinTech. mid-2014

that

ideal getaway used to be a long-

work for a small venture capital

rather

and transparency. Picking the

(St. Gallen) and then went to

International

but

previously they lacked focus

Business Administration at HSG

there

destinations by plane? Is this we

decided

a good price? Do the dates suit

revolutionise the weekend trip

my plans? What’s the weather

industry and started ″weasy″

going to be like? What is there

a platform designed to enable

to do at the destination? What

customers to book a weekend

can I see? Which is the best

trip there and then without the

hotel around? Do they have

time-consuming

vacancies? And so on. All these

research.

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INTRODUCTION

questions need to be answered

- and by the time an idea takes

before you book because what

shape you have lost interest

good does a 100€-deal on a

or click the ″book now″ button

flight to Barcelona do you if

completely unnerved. We always

your plane back home leaves at

fantasised

6am on Sunday morning. What’s

popping in at the right moment

the use of a great hotel deal in

to proclaim: ″Hey guys, I have

Bordeaux if every flight there

compiled a couple of perfectly

costs in excess of 500€ or comes

suited getaway options for you.

with two layovers.

Just pick what most tickles your

Weasy answers all these basic

fancy…and

questions for you and will only

wasting time looking.″

display relevant trips for the

When your university course is

two weekends ahead – from destinations.

book

someone

instead

focused on management and

short car trips to plane trips to European

about

hospitality it hones your sense

Your

for service and quality which is

perfect weekend getaway is just

how the idea behind ″weasy″

one click away.

was hatched. Hospitality is the

How did you come to found “weasy“? What was your

promise of fully internalising

inspiration?

what we want to offer to our

The idea behind ″weasy″ was

customers: More than just great

born from my dissertation thesis

service

at EHL. We had always thought

i.e. at their selected hotel, but

that planning a spontaneous

right from the start, from the

weekend trip involved an undue

customer’s first thoughts about

amount

endless

a getaway. From their very first

searching and picking & mixing

step towards an idea we set out to

hassle:

the idea of service. And that’s

their

destination,

INTRODUCTION

The two founders Niko and Alex

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# TGIF

INTRODUCTION

Pictures from the weasy-world: Barcelona

INTRODUCTION

actually make people‘s (smaller)

that will give you a weekend

dreams come true. Statistically

you will never forget. We work

speaking, everybody has these

tirelessly to fulfil our promise

yearnings exactly 1.38 times a

of offering the best selection of

day – but can’t do anything about

short trips and always manage

them until the weekend. That’s

to surprise you. Whether you’re

where our service picks them

toying with the thought of a city

up. Who would want to waste

trip, a weekend in the country,

time sieving through countless

a spa getaway or an activity

potentially

break, we want to inspire you to

interesting

offers

available online?

do something unusual, like ice

What does “weasy“ mean and how did you pick the name for

fishing in Geilo, a night spent in

your platform?

The selections we present to

weasy – weekends made easy. It

you are secret gems and we like

a tree house or at an ice hotel.

to think of ourselves as pearl

is a portmanteau that captures

divers going deep to find more

what our service is about: An

than your average last minute

easy way to make plans for a great weekend.

travel service provider.

Why is “weasy“ special? What sets it apart from other travel

What do you imagine the typical

services?

The

The “weasy“ service isn’t limited

demanding and knows what he

to new and inspiring offers

or she wants, but is still open

each week, “weasy“ is eager to

to being inspired. The main

learn from and about you as a

characteristic, however, is their

traveller so it can find the offers

unwillingness to waste precious

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“weasy“ user to be like?

typical

# TGIF

“weasy“

user

INTRODUCTION

time browsing the web for ideas.

experience, not a bargain!

They put a premium on being

There is background music on your website. Is that meant to

offered well thought-out ideas which enable them to choose

trigger a certain reaction?

with one click. They are not

We talked about yearnings before,

easily fooled and expect great

a longing to leave everything

value for money. You can liken

behind - even if it’s just for a

the experience to choosing from

moment – and let the thought of

a menu: a very good restaurant

“up, up and away“ take over. That’s

won’t have a menu card boasting

the thought behind the music, too.

100 selections. There will only be

Are there any destinations which are particularly popular on your

a few, but they will be fresh and perfectly put together to reflect

platforms?

seasonal offers. That’s what you can expect from us, too. You

City trips are always popular,

will find classic destinations like

regardless of the season. Our

Berlin, Paris, Rome, London or

suggestions come packed with

Madrid but we always try to also

insider tips and always offer

inject new and fresh impulses.

particularly good value for money.

“Weasy“ customers are looking

Adventure

for

inspiration,

moments

be a bit pricier but they still

treasure

unique

offer extraordinary value, not to

for

and

weekends

tend

INTRODUCTION

e p o

a h n

n e g

"Weasy-Customer is looking for inspiration, not for bargains."

i r a P

z Kit

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h 端e

INTRODUCTION

Pictures from the weasy-world: Amsterdam

INTRODUCTION

mention the experience!

any place – treasures just waiting

Which city is the best destination for a short trip with hand luggage

to be discovered. Our “Near-

only?

cover these areas.

Almost any destination in Europe

Is there something you yourselves

is suitable for a carry-on-only

bring home from each trip you

trip – provided you have planned it properly. The bigger cities are an obvious choice as they are both accessible and exciting, there’s

something

new

discover every time you come to

You“ service has been created to

take? We are not that much into souvenirs and items of material value, we appreciate sentimental value. We’re interested in getting

visit. Many cities also have really

to know something that’s typical of

great alternative destinations to

each place we visit - be it a dish, a

offer not 100km outside their

wine or maybe even a special type

boundaries. But you have to

of gin – and discover something

know where and what they are –

new. What could be more precious

or check out “weasy“. Now you

than a collection of beautiful

may not want to get on a plane for each trip, but that’s not a problem at all! Many people have very little appreciation for what their home region has to

memories? Which

three

indispensable

things for

are perfect

weekend trip?

offer. There are countless great

Joyful anticipation, someone with

destinations and hotels to be

whom to share the experience

found within 300 km of almost

and of course “weasy”.

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INTRODUCTION

Pictures from the weasy-Welt on the right page: f.l.t.r. Budapest, Danzig, Lissabon, Strassburg, Kopenhagen, Zillertal, Riga, Thessaloniki

THANK YOU,

WEASY! WWW.WEASY.TRAVEL

INTRODUCTION

IT‘S FRIDAY, TIME TO GO MAKE STORIES FOR MONDAY! - TGIF -

FRIDAY

Friday OUR INFO FEATURE ON WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ARGUABLY THE MOST POPULAR DAY OF THE WEEK

For many people in Germany, Friday is the most appealing day of the week. We may still have to go to work in the morning but more often than not we can leave early and enjoy some much needed free time. On a Friday everything seems to be just a bit more relaxed. Read more about how we and other people internationally spend our Fridays in this info feature.

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INTRODUCTION

O U R

C O N T R I B U T O R

The boarding crew CO-PILOT

JULIA JERG

FRIDAY

The former PR and Marketing Consultant from Munich has been travelling as a digital nomad since 2011, writing about . her travels on www.jeyjetter.com So far she has visited 50 countries on 6 continents and stayed in Sweden, Spain, Australia, Chile and Canada for longer stretches of time. In 2015 she set out on her current adventure and made her way to Mexico where she started on her way through Central America which will lead her to the Galapagos Islands, which are part of Ecuador, by mid-2016. jeyjetter.com

FRIDAY

THANK GOD IT‘S FRIDAY

TGIF! How we have longed for it - the definite sense of relief in the face of two days of diverse relaxation to come! Friday hails freedom and fun. We have taken a look at this most popular of all days of the week and how people go about it around the world. Read about traditions and curiosities in this special Friday feature. Let’s begin at the beginning and look at the origins of the days

way while Saturday and Sunday were all about kicking back and

of the week: The Bible says God

relaxing.

created the world in seven days;

The Babylonians thought the

on Friday he made the animals.

planets influenced the various

With a good pinch of narcissism

days of the week and hence

we’re tempted to attribute a

assigned one to each of them.

special place to Friday for this

Friday was named for the planet

fact alone: it was the last day

Venus which is still obvious

of his working week before the

today in the French word for

creation of humans. Just like today

it, “vendredi”. Venus was the

everything up to Friday is focused

goddess of love, which may go

on getting the chores out of the

a long way to explaining our

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INTRODUCTION

HELLO WEEKEND, I‘M SO HAPPY TO SEE YOU! - TGIF -

AL CS

no alarm threatening to go off in the morning, it’s the perfect

enduring love it. version

The

chance to party till dawn.

for English

Friday

goes

A stark contrast to a night spent

back to the Norse goddess

at the club is the typical Friday of

Frigg (it was Frīge’s day in Old English)

while

the

a devout German: The memory

German

of Good Friday and the death of

Freitag is named for Freya (a

Jesus is kept alive by fasting. So

close equivalent to Frigg in

if you are enjoying a nice piece

Germanic mythology).

of meat on a Friday you will feel more at home in the social

One typical Friday night activity

circle of the aforementioned

for Germans between 20 and 30

club goers. The vast majority

is clubbing. If there is a night that

of people still sticking to the

was made to be danced away,

religious traditions are of the

it’s definitely Friday night. With

older generation.

Photos: Ashley Ludäscher (AL) 30

| Cristopher Santos (CS)

FRIDAY

WHEN IN ROME, DO AS THE ROMANS DO!

Great Britain A typical Friday in Great Britain

Abdullah moved the beginning

isn’t all that different from one

of the weekend to Friday. On

in Germany. Brits, however, tend

Sunday, however, it’s back to

to get started on their weekend

work for his subjects. So they

merriment at the pub straight

don’t get more than our two

after work without popping back

days off either but their Friday is

home first. Although there is no

an actual free day.

official closing time anymore, most pubs will close between

Schweden

11p.m. and midnight due to That’s

In Sweden your average Friday

when the Brits go home, but just

may not be anything all too

to change their outfits and then

special but at least once a year

make for a club.

it’s a major event when all

licensing

obligations.

the shops close down as the

Saudi Arabia

Swedes prepare for the second biggest

festival

the

year

More than just custom: In the

(after Christmas): “Midsommar”

Arab world the entire week

(midsummer). Held each year on

is set up different to ours by

the Saturday that falls between

state decree. In Saudi Arabia

the 20th and 26th of June,

for example, the weekend was

midsommarafton

officially comprised of Thursday

Eve) the Friday before is when

and Friday until 2013. In order to

everybody leaves the city to go

facilitate business relations with

and see their family, friends and

the Western world, King

neighbours in the country.

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(midsummer

Photo: Artesia Wells/ shutterstock

INTRODUCTION

it’s

celebration

consumption

nights

whole.

important as the event itself and are

often turn out to be even more

nothing if not hot! A typical past

fun. The men gather around

time if the “asado” a barbecue

the open fire (An electric grill is

and a chance to discuss meat!

not compatible with barbecue

Now, Germans may like their

ethics!) with a bottle of beer or

barbecue, but in Chile the

a glass of Chilean wine in their

Germans idea of it would

hands and talk shop while the

hardly

meat

Preparations are at least as

Chile Friday

the

women prepare the sides in the

starter. So it’s no wonder

kitchen enjoying a pisco sour or

that

qualify

Chile

the

amounts

two…

meat purchased for the asado are more often than not enough to

Buddhismus

one

In Buddhism, the different days

of the week have individual

even Sunday. But

properties and a specific Buddha

in Chile it’s not

statue is assigned to each of

about the actual

them. The Friday Buddha is

grilling process,

depicted in a thoughtful pose:

host

another

Saturday

FRIDAY

standing up with his hands

him almsfood and together they

crossed on his chest (left over

explored ways of simplifying

right). The word for Friday is

the Buddha’s teachings so they

“Paang

which

could be understood by people

translates as “the Buddha of

without schooling. The status of

contemplation”.

peace and contemplation shows

legend, the Buddha met two

the Buddha reflecting on how

of his first lay followers on a

to make his teachings easier to

Friday. The two salesmen gave

understand. Another example

Ram

phueng”

According

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INTRODUCTION

WEEKEND IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA! - TGIF -

of an important event that

He becomes Crusoe’s servant

happened on a Friday.

as well as his companion, and

No feature about Friday is

Crusoe names him for the day

complete without talking about

on which the two of them meet:

Daniel Defoe’s novel Robinson

Friday.

Crusoe which we hope will awaken your wanderlust: It

All this talk of Friday has put

is the tale of a 17th century

me into a distinct weekend

salesman stranded on a desert

mindset, so I will finish writing

island off the American Atlantic

now and enjoy my free time

coast. He spends 28 years on the island (before finally being

the British way: with a well-

rescued by pirates) and makes

deserved pint. Wishing you all

the acquaintance of a “wildling”

a nice rest of the week. Cheers!

who was chased by cannibals.

FRIDAY

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I love souvenirs because I think they are such a wonderful way of sharing your beautiful memories with friends and family. But since I have become a constant traveller and only rarely fly home, I have not collected additional

souvenirs. I used to bring home a culinary specialty from the countries I visited because I like the idea of getting to know foreign cultures through their cuisines: wine from Chile, cheese from France and chocolate from Belgium.â&#x20AC;&#x153;

My Dearsouvenir from Julia Jerg

Belgian chocolate

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DEPARTURE

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DEPARTURE

A Weekend in Barcelona

TRAVEL FROM CHEAP TO LUXURIOUS TEXT & PHOTOS: Sophia Schillik Sophia Schillik takes us with her on a trip to Barcelona before we get deeper into Dearsouvenir and start getting lost in our various destinations. Sophia is going to prepare us mentally for different types of travelling â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from economic to luxurious â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and shares some useful tips she brought back home from her weekend in Barcelona. Those tips can of course also be applied to any other destination.

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DEPARTURE

C O N T R I B U T O R

The Boarding Crew T O U R

G U I D E

BARCELONA SOPHIA SCHILLIK

Sophia Schillik changes cities like others do it with their toothbrushes. Almost. One year ago, Munich-born Sophia Schillik moved to Cologne to fulfill her dream: writing about food and food photography. Her love for the beautiful things in life has her travelling the world in search of the best recipes and souvenirs.

cucinapiccina.de

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DEPARTURE

but no money in my pockets.

Little Pockets

But don’t let this be a deterrent

Finally, a little time to relax;

– even the most renowned poets

to release the bindings of the

and thinkers have travelled on a

everyday and embrace a sense of

thin wallet. Exceptional moments

adventure and pleasure-seeking.

of culture, exciting city tours, and

Weekend trips are little pockets of

unforgettable evenings in good

freedom from the daily grind, an

company aren’t a question of

opportunity to refresh the body,

finance, but rather of curiosity,

soul and mind. There’s no better

openness and flexibility. I was able

dose of motivation than a mini

to stay free of charge on the sofa

excursion when a longer vacation

of a friendly Spanish host who I

is still well into the future and

met through the Couchsurfing ‌

the coming weeks promise mere

community. The Mercat de la

looping routine. Of utmost credo:

Llibertat or Mercat Santa Caterina

Go wherever your heart desires.

are

Rule number two: stay consistent

tomatoes, jamón ibérico, cheese

I’ve spent many weekends in

and olives for a casual picnic in

the Catalan capital, through life

stages

budget-friendly

stops to pick up Caterina bread,

with your travel budget. Since

different

perfect

Parc de la Ciutadella, Barcelona’s

and

green oasis.

with varying balances in my bank account, this is a city where you can have it both

You can get a host of insider tips

ways – cheap and easy or

for thrifty shopping, restaurants

luxuriously decadent.

and bars from charming ice cream vendors or wait staff. Bar Leo, a

Bargain hunting? No problem!

small, authentic Flamenco tavern in the port area of Barceloneta, is

My love for Barcelona

definitely one to check out. The

started when I was still

cerveza is cold, the gin and tonic

a student. I had an

strong, and the walls are adorned

itch for wanderlust,

with newspaper clippings and 42

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DEPARTURE

posters of Spanish Flamenco king

cheap hostel or Airbnb

Miguel “Bambino” Vargas. On

can dig a little deeper into your

Saturday afternoons, residents of

pocket to splurge on some of the

the neighbourhood are bestowed

finer things in life, here and there.

the honour of local musicians’

Stroll through Antoni Gaudí‘s

melodies. A few steps further

Parc Güell, visit the impressive

you’ll find two grandmothers

Sagrada Familia, and dine at the

preparing exquisite dishes at

cozy Embat family restaurant,

La Cova Fumada

a beacon of

which serves dinner until around

Catalan cooking highlighted by

10:30 p.m. – ideal for those who

grilled squid, fried artichokes,

arrive on Friday evening. Or opt

so you

tortilla,

for a little lunch at Joan Noi, a

Manchego, and pan con tomate

lively, well-attended fish shack in

– inexpensive, authentic, and

Gràcia with delicious gambas a

Padrón

peppers,

la plancha and the world‘s best

incredibly delicious.

tuna in walnut sauce. Since you’re

En route with a judicious budget Exploring

Barcelona

already in the area, Gràcia is ideal for a little shopping excursion. by

foot or bike, enjoying the sunset views from Parc de Montjuïc, and taking in the balmy summer night scene at Plaça Reial with a glass of wine in hand – all of it

(almost)

gratis.

Here

you’ll

find

wonderful

boutiques, well-stocked wine and fine food shops, cute cafes, and plenty of bars where you can turn Saturday evening into the next day. An absolute must: indulging in some rum at Bar Raim

and

trying Vermouth at the Taverne Succulent

on Rambla del Raval.

Save some money by

walking

You’ll find even more shops and

get around and

unique boutiques in the trendy El

checking into a

Born neighbourhood as well as

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in the gothic quarter, Barri Gòtic.

can reach in half an hour by train

Spend Saturday morning buying

or bus. The clear, azure, and

a few culinary souvenirs or fresh

utterly spectacular ocean is just

ingredients for dinner, followed

a 500-metre walk from the train

by a visit to a bar for some

station and is absolutely worth

crunchy sweets and an espresso

the mini-trip – enjoy grilled fish

– definitely possible on a more

with views of the water or make

conservative budget. Sightseeing

your way back to the city to nosh

tip: The Santa Maria church with

at Tapas24

its breathtaking ceiling. Follow

chef Jordi Cruz’s crafty creations

that up with an ice cream or dulce

at Restaurant Ten‘s

de leche waffle in the sugar-sweet

easy decision by any means. You

, Mano Rota

or “it”

. Not an

also have the option to attend a

Café Biscuiter at the Plaça de

plethora of concerts and events

Sant Pere. Or perhaps an aperitif

throughout

at the hippyish Café Mescladis is

the

summer,

the

premiere of which is the world-

more your flavour?

renowned Sónar music festival. You’ll definitely want to purchase

To treat yourself

your tickets ahead of time for

A beach at the heart of the city –

that one. You’ll soon discover

how great is that? Rest your feet

plenty

in the warm sand and enjoy a

within

truly

fresh-pressed juice, cocktail, or

historical settings, a special

Cava at the trendy Princesa 23

atmosphere

bar

Barcelona FC’s Camp Nou

– now this is how you treat

fiestas

hosted

magical to

and

behold.

yourself. You’ll find the nicest

football stadium carries

beaches just outside Barcelona, in

an equally mythic aura.

Sitges, a quaint town 35 minutes

Though tickets used to

southwest of the city, that you

be impossible to get a 46

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hold of, the Catalans have recently

luxury, for a woman needs a

began releasing them for sale to

standout outfit for a dinner at

the general public. Those who

the posh Disfrutar ‌ . This must-

want to see the genius of Messi

try restaurant is headed by Oriol

and Co. live can purchase tickets

Castro and Eduard Xatruch of the

online or at the gate to be among

former Michelin 3-star restaurant

the 99,000-person spectacle.

El Bulli

most impressive haute cuisine

Noble prestige: Experience pure luxury

on the planet. A true gem that captures the taste of Spain. Before

Even your dearest companion

you sink into the soft pillows of

needs to accompany you on a Saturday

pre-noon

fitting at Lisa Wixell

, and serves some of the

the ritzy Hotel El Palace and carry

wardrobe

a delightfully decadent Barcelona

. The

weekend into your dreams and

Swedish fashion designer’s silky,

the next week, take the time to

airy feminine creations are almost

toast a nightcap on the rooftop

too beautiful to believe. A bargain

bar of the futuristic Barcelo Raval

they are not – one of the dream

. In addition to excellent drinks,

dresses will set you back anywhere between 150 and 600 euros –

it offers a spectacular 360-degree

but decidedly worth the price.

panorama of the city. Buenas

They’re the perfect complement

noches, Barcelona - you can be

to a weekend of sophisticated

so charmingly diverse.

“One of my favourite avticities is to scour flea markets for beautiful things, esepcially when I’m abroad. The ‘fleamarket of thieves’ („Feira da Ladra“) in Lisboa is one of the loveliest places in the world. Plates, cutlery, old boxes and a tin

cone were a few of the things I had picked up when I stumbled across an old, wooden port wine box and fell in love. After quite some difficulties at the post office, we managed to get the thing back to Cologne where it now sits happily in our flat and reminds me of that holiday and all the happy memories.“

My dearsouvenir

port wine crate

by Sophia Schillik 49

DEPARTURE

COMPARISON OF ACCOMONDATIONS

AT HOME

ABROAD TEXT: Sophia Schillik

COUCHSURFING

HOUSESITTING

F L AT EXCHANGE

AIRBNB

HOLIDAY A PA R T M E N T

HOTELS

COUCHSURFING

HOUSE SITTING

couchsurfing.org hospitalityclub.org

trustedhousesitters.com

+F ree place to sleep/low travel costs, adventure appeal

+L iving without having to pay rent

+C ommunity vibe, warm hospitality, interesting experience

+B ig choice of countries

+M eet new people, insider tips from locals, establish meangingful contacts

+ Regular, planned everyday life

+H igh living standards, mostly including electricity, WiFi etc.

– A lot of work (pets, garden etc.) – Less suited for people on holiday, more for longer stays abroad

– Lack of comfort – Living with strangers, close proximity to others

– Additional costs have to be paid

– Requirements: flexibility and adaptability, experience in interacting with communities and social networks

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– Less flexibility, more of an everyday lifestyle

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FLAT EXCHANGE

AIRBNB

guesttoguest.com flatsandfriends.com

airbnb.com

+C hange of scenery, low-budget abode

+L ow budget or individual accommodation

+P rivate kitchen/ability to cook

+E xciting method of travel

+ I nsider tips, authentic experience

+ Exchange with other couples/ families

+H ospitable atmosphere/local living

+ Privacy

+N o disturbing room service/ private or social depending on personal preference

– Legal disadvantages/liability issues/incalculable risks – Membership fees for various platforms – No breakfast or room service

– No breakfast or room service, unresolved liability issues

– Requires trust and trustworthiness

– Requires trust and trustworthiness – Less privacy (if only one room) – Possibility or risk of last-minute cancellation of the room/ apartment by the landlord

RENTAL/ VACATION HOME

HOTEL/ LUXURY HOTEL

homeaway.com

praktikhotels.com

wimdu.com

secretescapes.com

9flats.com

+ Room service/optional amenities: semi-boarding/breakfast, all-inclusive packages, spa extras

+ Certainty regarding security, comfort, and hygiene +P roven conventional property

+G uaranteed security, comfort, and hygiene, often in prime locations

+L egal protection in case of damage, reliable booking process +F lexible scheduling; no breakfast times, no reception etc.

–H igh to very high budget requirement –L imited privacy (room service/ cleaning disruptions)

+ Privacy – Higher budget requirement – No breakfast or room service

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Airbnb

THE GAME OF PEOPLE, PLACES AND THE LOVE OF TRAVEL The Dearsouvenir-Team opted to use Airbnb to find accomodation for their Ghent travel. The main reason being to take a closer look at this service, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s advantages and disadvantages, as well as the history behind it. However this review is not paid for but purely editorial.

TEXT: Philipp A. Stelzel PHOTOS: Helena Melikov ACCOMODATION: Ladislas Leys in Gent

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O U R

C O N T R I B U T O R

The boarding crew imprintmytravel.com

GER PASSEN

AIRBNB

philippstelzel

PHILIPP A. STELZEL Philipp Alexander Stelzel is the man behind “Fotoreisen Abenteuer”. His two passions can be recognized easily – travel and photography. Originally, he wanted to use his blog to share his impressions with friends and family. But by now, the website has grown strongly and developed into one of the bigger German-speaking travel blogs. “I hope that I can inspire you as well!” As a practiced airbnb user Philipp was the right person to write our feature about the american renting website.

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For many people who are fond

What is Airbnb?

of travelling, Airbnb became a

common

alternative

Airbnb is an online marketplace

for accommodation. Users can

hotels. It even brings together

rent and let accommodation over

different cultures and people

the platform. So to speak, Airbnb

from all around the world. Accommodation

is the link that brings together

available

host

in more than 190 countries. In

this

information

Dearsouvenir

tenant.

Airbnb

particularly used by people who

feature,

explains

and

need accommodation for a few

what

days in a foreign town. Usually,

Airbnb is and how it works and

hosts offer unused rooms in

provides you with useful tips.

their apartments. In many cases, complete apartments are let, sometimes whole houses, yachts,

For many years, I’ve been an enthusiastic user of Airbnb. In

houseboats or even castles.

2012, I used the platform for the

Nowadays, you also find many

first time when I did a short trip

commercial

to Berlin. Ever since, I’ve had good

marketplace. Since this is done a

experiences with it from Buenos

lot without a business registration

Aires to Helsinki.

and without paying taxes, Airbnb

Of course, I don’t book all my

is often criticised by the media.

trips through Airbnb. But in many cases I get the best deal there. Let me tell you what exactly Airbnb is and what makes the booking platform so special.

offers

the

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How

does

Airbnb

work?

On the website airbnb.com

, you

can look for accommodation all around the world. Travellers can look at all accommodation without having an account. However, to make a reservation you need an Airbnb profile. You can also look for accommodation using a filter for your own preferences.

type of accomodation – complete apartment, private or shared room price – from very cheap to luxuirous s ize – number of bedrooms, bathrooms, beds dditional service – WiFi, TV, a kitchen, pool, whirlpool, sauna etc. kind of accommodation – apartment, house, B&B langauge of the host other keywords – ocean view, close to sights etc.

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you

find

suitable

occur with the booking: You have

accommodation that is available

to pay an Airbnb service fee that

in the desired time period, you

finances the benefits of Airbnb

can contact the host and ask for a

(like the 24/7 customer service).

reservation. Before you reserve,

Also, the price could include the

you should address open issues

value added tax (depending on

so that there wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be any nasty

the country), the fee for currency

surprises

example,

conversion and other local taxes.

you should clarify questions like

The money will only be debited

these:

after

later.

For

the

host

confirms

the

reservation. The host can only access it 24 hours after check-in.

Are there towels? bed linen? Are we alone in this place?

When was Airbnb founded? Airbnb was founded by Brian Chesky and Joe Gebbia in San

How much contact do you have with the host?

Francisco at the end of 2007. The city was already extremely expensive back then, and the two

If everything is clarified and accommodation.

roommates

had

difficulties paying the rent for

the host agrees, you can book the

fellow

their loft. Allegedly, they were

The

close to eviction then. In October

accommodation expenses and

2007, the hotel rooms in the

the cleaning fee are included in

city ran short because of the

the price, sometimes also a fee

Industrial

for additional guests.

Design

Conference.

Therefore, the founders had the

Next to that, additional costs will

idea to let their loft to conference

FACTS & FIGURES With a market value of 24 billion US dollars, Airbnb is almost as valuable as the biggest hotel chains Hilton and Mariott.

Airbnb is active in more than 190 countries. You can even find places in in Kabul and Baghdad.

Airbnb guests stay longer than normal travellers. Those who book at Airbnb stay for an average of 5 nights. Guests in hotels and hostels stay for only 2.8 nights on average.

About 20% of Airbnb guests stay for longer than one month in their accommodation.

DEARSOUVENIR

Airbnb

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an abbreviation for >>airbed and breakfast<< which is an allusion to the fact that Brian and Joe offered airbeds and breakfast to their first guests. The first website even had the domain name airbedandbreakfast.com but this bulky name was soon changed into the more concise Airbnb.

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participants that couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get any

can

hotel rooms.

accommodation.

So they converted their living

advantage for lessors is that they

The

of big

possibilities that they rarely use.

airbeds and got a homemade

Unlike with couchsurfing, you get

breakfast in the morning.

a financial offset for your efforts.

The concept worked: The guests

Also, letting on Airbnb gives you

who stayed during the conference

the opportunity to get in touch

weekend were delighted and the

offerer

time by letting rooms and sleeping

Breakfast. The guests slept on

about

earn money with little effort and

room into an improvised Bed &

enthused

become

with people from all around the

familiar

world.

atmosphere of the apartment. Also, Brian and Joe took $1,000 and were able to continue paying the rent for their loft. So they decided to conyinue

What should I pay attention to as a host on Airbnb?

with the concept. Just three

First of all, you have to ask

years later, Airbnb was active

yourself if you are allowed to let

in 5,000 cities in 142 countries.

on Airbnb at all: What does your

Today, you can look for

landlord say? Could there be any

accommodation

problems with the neighbours?

than 34,000 cities and 190

Like with every other income, you

countries with Airbnb.

have to pay taxes on the income you get from Airbnb. Many hosts donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do that which is why Airbnb

Why should I let my apartment on Airbnb?

has been criticised heavily in

Airbnb is a product

The tax rules differ from one

recent years.

sharing

country to another. Better ask

economy. This means

a tax consultant or Airbnb what

of that

the

kind of taxes occur.

everybody 64

If you live in a quiet area, you absolutely should pay attention to establishing clear rules to avoid conflicts between your guests and the neighbours. Tell your guests in an unambiguous way which behaviour is allowed and which is not. Are they allowed to smoke, bring pets, invite guests, play music after 10 p.m.? You have to articulate issues like these in a clear way. It is also recommended to get insurance

for

the

short-term

let in case you have a more expensive normal

apartment. household

Your

insurance

wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pay for damages. Airbnb protects hosts with an insurance sum of up to 1 million US dollars if there are any accidents in their let accommodation or in the surrounding area during a stay. But you shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t waive additional insurance if you own/rent more expensive accommodation. You never know if the nice travel group from England turns out to be a blaring stag party that will leave no stone standing in your apartment.

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Furthermore, you have to keep an

accommodation

eye on the competitors. How much

compare the positive and negative

is paid for similar accommodation

ones.

in your neighbourhood? What do

these apartments/houses look

because of small details. But if

like? And how can you make sure

several guests complain about

that your accommodation stands

serious deficiencies, you know

out from the masses?

that you should look elsewhere.

Often,

evaluated

carefully

and

accommodation negatively

only

Apart from that, you should clarify What should I pay attention to as a guest?

all details with the host so that

For a guest, it is important

surprises. Especially the time and

positive

the place of the hand-over of the

evaluations and references as

keys should be clarified. It’s best

possible. Thereby, it’s easier to

to get the contact of your host

be accepted as a guest in very

on WhatsApp, Skype or Facebook

collect

many

you don’t experience any nasty

popular accommodation.

so that you can let them know in case you are late.

Read the evaluations of the

”Actually, I am not a big shopper for souvenirs. For me, it’s more about collecting impressions and experiences on my travels. But while I write these lines, I look at my batik mask from Indonesia that hangs over

my desk. My stay on Java was the first big trip I did on my own. This is why it will always be one of the most special trips of my life. The mask reminds me of that time every day. Maybe it makes sense to occasionally buy souvenirs after all.”

My dearsouvenir by Philipp Stelzel

Batik mask

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TEST DRIVE: PACKPOINT

An App That Packs My Bags !? TEXT: Nina Fรถrster

We’re all too familiar with the

and even allows you to choose

scenario:

vacation

between personal or business

awaits and the tiresome task

trips. So far so good. I’m interested

of packing is upon you. Like

in finding out more, however, so

everyone else, I’m not a big fan

I will simulate three scenarios to

of packing, though it’s not a

take the app through its paces.

process that consumes days or

Since I’m a bit skeptical, I should

even weeks of my time. It usually

disclose that I’ve downloaded the

isn’t until the night before I leave

free version for now. A premium

that I begin to put my suitcase

version is available in the App

together. A handwritten list of

Store for 2,99€, or in the Google

essentials to pack is a major help,

Play Store for a slightly higher

which I usually compile a few days

price.

before take-off. The only problem

I’ve

your

is forgetting to write something on the list – so why not use an app to help?

selected

different

travel

purposes, dates and destinations for my test. I am particularly interested to see how the analysis

creates

for the weather in October, for

individual packing lists, checks

example, will play out in the way I

the weather for your travel dates,

pack.

The App, PackPoint,

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SCENARIO NO°1

e u g a r P Let’s suppose I want to spend a long weekend in Prague. I’ve

My travel dates: April 15th - 18th

spontaneously chosen the 15th of April as my travel date and would like to stay for three nights. It will be a personal trip. The result is a packing list arranged based on my activities

Weather forecast: Partly cloudy, between 7 °C and 14 °C

and a few other factors. Even if I’m not a photographer, I find the list to be very sufficient. The only thing that would let me down would be forgetting to pack a lens cleaning cloth and flash bracket. This could be particularly helpful on cloudy days or in the dark,

Activities: Photography, international, cycling

especially

for

photographers

more professional than myself. 70

Onto the cycling – and, let me tell you, the list is extensive. There is absolutely no cutting corners with PackPoint! Whereas I had envisioned a relaxed sightseeing tour by bike, the app prepares me for a more rigorous endeavour. According to its recommendation,

Plenty of items to complement

I should not leave home without

my activities are listed under the

proper shorts and gloves. It gets

headings “Important Things” and

more detailed as well, of course,

“Hygiene Products.” There are

but I had imagined a different,

some very useful suggestions

more leisurely journey. The

‘International’

listed on top of basics like t-shirts and jeans. A few of my highlights

category

include: reading glasses (I haven’t

includes many useful documents and

information

vaccination,

foreign

reached that age yet), contact

about

lenses (which I carry as rarely

currency

as glasses), and birth control

exchange and, network adapters.

pills (I had submitted that I was

This all sounds fine to me, though I have to admit I’ve never

female). The app even reminds

“confirmed

you of particular medications and

unit’s

voltage

vitamins – not bad!

capacity“ before. DEARSOUVENIR

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A reminder to pack an umbrella would have been very helpful for a cloudy forecast, though I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t complain much about the other recommendations. I also canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t confirm if the premium version would offer more concrete personalised thing

that

considerations. could

One

avoided

suggesting that those without vision impairments pack glasses and contact lenses. Otherwise, the app injected a bit of fun into the process of checking items off a list.

SCENARIO NO°2

a c i r f A h t u So I am a man now! And now it’s time for a two-week beach, fitness and

My travel dates: November 2nd August 2nd

swimming trip to South Africa. Specifically, I’ll be on my way to Cape Town. Why male? Well, the recommendation to pack birth control pills made me curious if contraceptives for men are also on the list. Let’s find out…

Weather forecast: Partly cloudy, 14 °C to 23 °C (is it safest to always account for partly cloudy weather?)

Before getting into too much detail, let’s have a quick check first. A towel under the swimming category makes sense, though it appears twice on my list since I’ve also included the beach as one of

Activities: Swimming, fitness, beach DEARSOUVENIR

my activities. The fitness section even includes a specific sports towel. This time, however, I’m a little unsure about the amount of 73

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clothes to pack. The suggestions

Oh,

aren’t quite as fitting as they were

missing. Apparently you always

for Prague – I’ve mentioned that

need to make the “International”

I have access to laundry during

selection if you want a reminder to

my trip, but I could definitely do

pack your passport. Unfortunately

with a few more pairs of shorts.

that’s missing here. And just to

Or is it assumed that I’ll only be

confirm my male orientation: yes,

wearing swimming and sports

there are condoms on the list!

shorts during the duration of my stay?

and

there’s

something

n o d Lon

SCENARIO NO°3

My travel dates: August 2nd - 4th

No more recreation – I want to know if the business mode works, and for that I transition back into my female role. The scope of activities quickly minimises to include the following: Work,

Weather forecast: Party cloudy (yet again), 15 °C und 22 °C

International,

Casual

business

wear, Formal business wear and Fine dining. Given that I’m still using the free version, I find the app’s functionality to be completely sufficient for my business trip.

Activities: Work (of course!), fine dining, formal business wear DEARSOUVENIR

Another quick check this time.

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F U N FA C T

Every article of clothing in my suitcase is automatically transformed into business attire by adding the word “work” before it. So my socks, for example, are now considered “work socks,” and my belt as a far more professional “business belt.” We’re not here for fun, after all!

I have no complaints about any

encouraged

of the suggestions for the ‘Work’

recreational dress shirts despite

selection; I’m even reminded

only staying one night. I’m now

to pack all necessary chargers.

prepared for an unavoidable

Unfortunately there’s little use

British rain shower or in case I

in this list for anyone who still

should spill anything.

pack

two

uses paper journals or physical calendars.

All in all, I’m impressed by the free version of PackPoint. The interface

I am once again reminded about

is simple and self-explanatory,

the foreign currency exchange,

though the weather forecasts are

etc. on account of having chosen

somewhat questionable and the

the ‘International’ activity. There’s

activities are limited. There are

really nothing missing here. Quite

certainly enough, if not a little

the opposite, actually – I find

too

many,

recommendations

the list of items to be quite

for everything you need to pack

extensive as I scroll

during any given trip. The verdict

through. I’m

is still out if it’s enough to lure me away from a handwritten packing list. For now, I’ll use PackPoint as a source of suitcase inspiration.

Have fun while packing!

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10 #listical

THING S WE NE VER TRAVE L WITHO UT Listical pinnen

TEXT: Maureen Schneider PHOTOS: Adam Kiefer ILLUSTRATION: Helena Melikov

TRAVEL WALLET HEADPHONES Use these wonderful little things to listen to relaxing music on your travels.

All the important things right where you need them! Tickets and credit card, cash and passport all in one place.

CAMERA Polaroid, DSLR or mobile phone camera: use them to capture special moments on your trip.

B UY ONLINE

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EMERGENCY KIT Carry a small bag with essentials to take care of smaller injuries so you can fully enjoy your travels. B UY ONLINE

NOTEBOOK Use a notebook to jot down memories and things you don‘t want to forget. Especially when you‘re on the go and your smartphone doesn‘t work as you would like it to, it‘s more than useful to have something to write down an address, contact details or just to generally record some details.

B UY ONLINE

Men

B UY ONLINE

Women

B UY ONLINE

SHAWL

B UY ONLINE

Shawls and scarves are easily the most versatile travel buddy there ever was. Use them on the plane to keep off cool air or to cover your shoulders on sacred sites.

Men

B UY ONLINE

Women

SUNGLASSES Your eyes will thank you for this accessory: sunglasses protect the cornea from UV-rays and also add some serious style to any outfit.

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MOISTURISING CREAM WITH SPF Use a moisturiser with SPF to prevent premature aging and other undesirable consquences.

B UY ONLINE

SMARTPHONE Any smartphone will soon be your most trusted gadget: maps, currency converters, watch, alarm clock and mp3 player all in one device. The ultimate space saver!

B UY ONLINE

DISINFECTANT When traveling, you do not always have the opportunity to wash your hands whenever and wherever you want, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s a small bottle of disinfectant gel of a friend in need and makes the bacteria herumschwirrenden life difficult. 82

DEPARTURE

STYLE SHOOT

HAND LUGGAGE FOR ANY JOURNEY

Before we leave for our trip around the world one question arises: What bag should I take for a weekend trip? Our international jet set couple consisting of Marie our french girl and her italian boyfriend Loris show you some wonderful options for any kind of trip: from chic metropolitan hopping, to a sporty weekend getaway.

DEARSOUVENIR

PHOTOS: Oh Hedwig STYLING (H&M): Tina Fischbach STYLING (CLOTHES): Sandra Rothfeld & Nina Förster OUR JETSET COUPLE: Marie & Loris

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#Chic

SHE

The classic Trolley: Classic Flight Cabin Trolley IATA 35 litre, from Rimowa, € 409.

Chic and practical: Blakely Flapover Backpack Tan. By Fiorelli, ₤ 59.

ORDER HERE

She wears: Patterned dress in light beige. From H&M, € 39,99 Beige Trenchcoat. By Burberry, ca. € 1.700. His outfit: private.

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#CasualChic

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#CasualChic

SHE For a day in the city: City Backpack MidVolume in Chambray. By Herschel via Zalando, € 64,95.

UNISEX

Everything fits in here: Daysack with buckle in white & blue. By Celio for €49,99.

The small all-arounder: Beach & Shopping Bag in the colour limoges. By Herschel, $ 64,99.

ORDER ONLINE

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#UrbanCool

Black is key: Faux leather Daypack with handle Weekender. and adjustable straps. By Kiomi via By Zign via Zalando, Zalando, € 49,95. € 69,95. ORDER ONLINE

ORDER ONLINE

LOCATION SCOUT

Myer‘s Hotel The four-star Hotel-Myer‘s in Prenzlauer Berg is full of individual style, flair and culture. Changing art exhibitions in the gallery, a peaceful garden with a sun terrace and the romantic courtyard entrance, reminiscent of summer days in Italy, invite you to linger. BOOK NOW

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#Sporty

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#Sporty

SHE

For the spontaneous weekend trip: Aldersgate Core Holdall in beige. By Jack Wills, ₤ 49,50.

Minimalist in Grey: The grey daypack TARIK by Ucon Acrobatics for € 69,95. ORDER ONLINE

ORDER ONLINE

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100

Let‘s go! DEARSOUVENIR

101

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CONTINENT: EUROPE

WEEKEND WITH PROVAMEL IN GHENT 104

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- Q U I C K FA C T S -

GHENT

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Photos: Helena Melikov

Emerged from Celtic settlements, Ghent is now the third largest city of Belgium and the capital of East Flanders. Although Ghent is famous for its historic scenery and the medieval buildings that are still in good condition, it is not overrun by tourists. The biggest pedestrian zone throughout Belgium invites visitors to stroll between museums, churches and castles. Famous sights are reachable by foot. Connoisseurs and foodies surely make a find in one of over 650 restaurants and 620 cafĂŠs.

East-West: 3°42' km North-South: 51°4' km population: 251,133

VEGGIE CAPITAL OF EUROPE

longest river: Scheldt

Ghent was officially named the veggie capital of Europe. In 2009, the ″Donderdag Veggiedag“ was introduced. It is supposed to encourage locals and visitors to waive meat and fish on Thursdays and Fridays. Many restaurants stick strictly to the vegetarian option on a Thursday.

highest building: Arteveldetoren (118.5 m)

WERREGARENSTRAAT

A street that is changing permanently. Those who visit Ghent have to visit Werregarenstraat – street artists are allowed to freely unleash their graffiti mania here. It’s a very popular photo scene and worth a detour.

LITTLE NOSE – SWEET SPECIALTY

A popular specialty from Ghent are the so-called little noses, or Cuberdons or Neuzen. The sweets with a soft core made of raspberry jelly can be tasted and bought almost everywhere, mostly in mobile stands.

PROVAMEL & GHENT

The history of the organic brand Procamel started over 30 years ago around 1983 in Belgium. Find out more about the brand here . 107

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MAKE R INTERVIEW

Provamel

INTERVIEW WITH ALEXANDRA BENDER OF PROVAMEL Provamel

Brand

Manager

for

Germany,

Switzerland and Austria Alexandra Bender helped us uncover the true beauty of Provamelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birthplace, Ghent. The Belgian city is our destination of choice for Dearsouvenir #2. Have you ever been to Ghent where Provamel is headquartered? And if so what is your favourite sight there? Yes, I have been to Ghent several times. The international Provamel team meets there

to get to know Ghent a little better and I was thrilled by it. Ghent is a beautiful city with a unique flair. I couldn't name just one favourite sight but I would definitely recommend a canal tour to explore the city from the water.

almost every month to discuss

at those meetings. At our

How would you describe the Provamel brand? Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the philosophy behind it? What role does its Belgian heritage play?

Provamel blogger event last

Provamel is a pioneer in the soy

year, however, I had the chance

product industry and a market

new products and our next launches. But we spent most of our time inside the office

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leader in plant-based products

a reality with the help of the

of organic quality for conscious

power behind the soy bean. He

nutrition on vegetarian, vegan,

established a production site

lactose or dairy free diets. The

on Madagascar in the 1970's.

product range includes plant-

The logistical challenges on the

based

alternatives

African continent proved too

to curd cheese and yoghurt,

difficult to overcome, however,

cooking cream, desserts and

and

margarine

to Belgium to found a company

drinks,

made

from

soy,

almonds, nuts, rice, grains and company

returned

which made soy-based products

coconut. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re celebrating our 33rd

Vandemoortele

only.

anniversary

founder, the Belgian Philippe

Can you give us some background on Provamelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Green Story?

Vandemoortele: A better world

Provamelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Green Story tells

in which feeding the people in

the tale of our products and

developing countries is no longer

our brand. We want to give our

an issue. He hoped to make this

customers a chance to get to

this year and continue to work hard to fulfil the dream of our

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PHOTO: Theresa Neubauer

Cashew nuts are a tasty SUPERHERO! This creamy, unsweetened organic drink gives every muesli an exotic edge and tastes amazing when warm or cold!

Provamel was founded in

1983

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a s e om c e ist b l l a i e ec am p v s , o d d n e Pr o as lm b a t g n ut, n i n pla h o c c n o c u a er ce i h r t by l , o t d u n n l a e s nd k haz o n i m r d -al e e l c b i r ta e g ve

1997

2010

Launch of Soy Yogurt Alternatives

know us better and learn more

generated

about our brand. This includes

process to make our own bio gas.

the importance we place on

We also support a green project

sustainability and demonstrating

in Africa which plants trees in

which aspects of the production

order to combat desertification.

process it affects. Many people

the

production

Who is your customer? Who do

still don’t know that since 2010

you address?

Provamel’s production has been CO2 neutral. We achieve this by

Internally

refer

optimising our energy saving

customer

target

measures like reusing the heat

”Charlotte“.

our group

Charlotte

WATCH PROVAMEL'S GREEN STORY HERE

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2010

2014

The Production of Provamel products becomes fully CO2 neutral

and

open-minded,

New design, new format, good old taste

creative

football pitches. When sourcing

woman in her 30's who cares

our organic raw materials we

about

consider

sustainability

and

the

three

main

facts:

environment. When shopping

Where in the world do these raw

for food she puts a premium

materials grow naturally? Our

and

coconuts for example come from

diversity. Her diet is mainly

Sri Lanka and are transported

plant-based and she is open to

here by ship to least affect the

trying new things. Charlotte likes

environment.

spending her free time visiting

leave the smallest ecological

flee-markets,

footprint? Wherever possible we

unusual destinations or meeting

buy raw materials from sources

friends with whom she goes to

near our production sites in

small gigs by newcomer bands.

Europe. 85% of our soy beans

Anything

come from France, Italy and

organic-level

quality

taking

trips

mainstream

doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

work for Charlotte.

Where

Austria. The rest comes from an

Where are the Provamel production sites? Who are your producers and what are your criteria in selecting them?

eco-socially certified source in China. By the end of the year we hope to be able to source 100% of our soy beans from Europe.

We have three production sites How do you get to longtime agreements with your farmers?

in Belgium, England and France. Our main site is located in the Belgian

town

Wevelgem

We work very closely with our

and is the size of about 10

farmers and focus on long-

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Are you looking for a PICK-ME-UP? This delicious rice-coconut-pineapple drink has no added sugar and tastes like a tropical island!

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term

partnerships.

This

way

the farmers can secure a future

What is your favourite Provamel product?

and we can secure crops of

My favourite is the chocolate

continuously high quality.

flavoured soy drink, preferably straight from the fridge and in

Tell us about the availability of Provamel products. Provamel products are available wherever organic products are

the handy 250ml pack. But our new

curd

cheese

alternative

made from soy is set to dethrone it soonâ&#x20AC;Ś

sold in the DACH region (Germany, Austria and Switzerland) so you can get them in wholefood shops, organic supermarkets and health food stores. Since the beginning of 2016, 6 of our long-life drinks have also been available at dm, the drugstore chain.

Dear Alexandra, thanks for answering all of our questions, Let's get to Ghent now!

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GHENT

W E

T R A V E L

T O

G H E N T ! ! !

Our boarding crew PASSENGER

P I L O T

GHENT

SANDRA ROTHFELD

MIA MARJANOVIC

Not even the rainy weather kept Content Manager Sandra from showing her organisational skills once again as she kept the group together and well fed on our trip to Ghent. She also took her role as part-time model very seriously and happily posed for every picture and video.

The Berlin blogger discovered the city with us while snapping away and putting Ghentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vegan restaurants to the test. The resulting travelogue shows her all-round talents.

@mllerouge champ

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heylilahey. @heylilahey

PASSENGER

ER PASSENG

GHENT

HELENA MELIKOV

LUCAS MILHOMEM Brasilian Lucas Milhomem has been living in Berlin for a couple of years, producing beautiful videos for Carry-On Publishing about our events, DIY projects and travels. Click here to watch the videos from Ghent. Watch our videos from Ghent HERE

Helena is always on the search for pretty things. She took her camera to Ghent to snap every step along the way, beautifully capturing the atmosphere, people and art of Ghent. After the short trip, she was back at her desk to design and perfect the layout for this issue.

@lucasmilhomem

melikov.de @me.helena

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48 HOURS INSIDE EUROPE’S BEST KEPT SECRET

Friday Nights in Ghent

PHOTOS: Helena Melikov (HM) Thea Neubauer (TN)

Watch our videos HERE . HM

The weekendtrip

Saturday Excursion and culinar y highlights 118

TEXT: MIA MARJANOVIC / HEYLILAHEY.COM PHOTOS: HELENA MELIKOV

Between my plane from Berlin to Brussels, the train, the taxi and the hotel Ghent only revealed its darker sides â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I arrived at night and saw the intriguingly illuminated buildings flash past the window and only made straight for my comfy bed so I would be well rested for a full day of exciting exploring.

z.co map

Sunday Sunday with obstacles

I have to admit, when I learned I was going to be sent to Ghent I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even know where exactly the city was located. Ghent is the small, still largely undiscovered pearl in the middle of Flanders. In my 48 hours there I was to get to know it as both cosy and lively.

All locations on the map

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With us: Our camera and Provamel drinks in handy size

GHENT

F U N FA C T Ghent is extremely veganfriendly. No wonder, the city is known as the European veggie and organic capital. No other city on the continent has more vegetarian restaurants per citizen. And almost all of those have at least one vegan choice on offer.

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MMD

SATURDAY – DAY 1 SIGHTSEEING; CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDED At 10am sharp our little troop

A lengthy communal table. We

assembled in the hotel lobby,

colonised the top end for our

ready to go: Sandra, Helena,

first culinary highlight. Bakeries

Lucas and myself. It was really

don’t usually offer a wide range

exciting to discover a new city

of choices for vegans and I, who

with people I didn’t really know

has not eaten dairy products,

either. Luckily we had a great

meat of eggs for four years, was

rapport from the start and

expecting to start the day with

started chatting right away.

a dry bread roll and some jam.

We talked about our plans

Boy was I wrong! In the lower

for the day, what each of

right corner of the menu I saw

us had already seen in the

a sign marking choices as “100%

city, and where we would

Botanical“, and to my delight

go. And I finally got my

many of the menu options were

first impressions of the

labelled with it.

city by daylight. Sandra was our living, breathing Our

was

guide book. There wasn‘t a corner

Le Pain Quotidien

in the city about which she didn’t

first This

stop

know some intriguing story. I had

looks

done some preparatory reading

nothing like a chain

on Wikipedia and some blogs but

on the inside, by

Sandra seemed to have learned

the way) founded

them all by heart. So we took

in Brussels has a

a stroll through European art

special feature:

history and discovered buildings

bakeries

chain (it

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SAMSTAG – TAG 1

in Art Nouveau style, those

at least that’s what it felt like. I

dating from the Baroque period

just floated along. For lunch we

and the Renaissance. We also

headed to my favourite spot:

visited a whole host of churches,

Le Botaniste

of which there is one to be

vegetarian

– a vegan-

restaurant

located

found on just about every other

in an old pharmacy building in

corner. It didn’t take me long

the centre of Ghent. All meals

to come to this conclusion:

are made using organic, plant-

Ghent is full of beautiful

based

squares to discover, some wide,

and

inspiring,

to stay for a good long while; but

all

Le Botaniste is also the home to

of them full of life and with

their

very

The

which in itself is a great reason

spacious but

only.

menu selections are plentiful

small and incredibly sweet others

ingredients

an organic wine bar…Let me tell

own

you, the people of Ghent know

character. Water plays

how to enjoy the nicer things in

an important role in

life!

Ghent: wherever you go you can see either

After many more kilometeres

the Leie or Scheldt River

covering the length and breadth

meandering through

of Ghent and its small alleys and

the city. So our

pretty souvenir shops we opted

its

way

path

took

for a vegan buffet for dinner:

Komkommertijd

from one bridge

(I am so

glad this isn’t a podcast because

to the next; or 122

I could not for the life of me figure out how to pronounce this name). Just to be sure I asked the waiter which of the dishes on offer were vegan and he smiled and answered happily: “It’s all vegan!“ I did a little celebratory dance (only in my head, of course) – all you can vegan! After dinner we proceeded to a point of order entitled ”drinks and dessert“ which turned out to be a sorbet. The Pakhuis

a former warehouse and now a lively yet cosy organic restaurant perfectly suited to the positive exuberance the people of Ghent exude was an ideal place to enjoy a lovely evening. From our inside balcony seats we had a perfect view of what felt like the hustle and buzzle of the a market place even though, of course, everybody sat neatly at their tables as you do in a restaurant. DEARSOUVENIR

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SUNDAY – DAY 2 SUNDAY WITH OBSTACLES After a short dreamless night

relatively early. No sooner had

which

provided

we sat down that a long queue

much needed rest for my feet,

started forming all along the

we set out on what turned

bar and extending almost out

into something of a hike as we

of the building. We only noticed

crossed back and forth through

it when we left, however. Had

the city to find a place that was

we observed the phenomenon

nonetheless

open for brunch.

earlier we would not have sat at

A weekend trip to Ghent is

the table for another 30 minutes

not the best option for the

after finishing our food to enjoy the free WiFi. Oops!

culinary minded traveller. Many restaurants and cafés close early on Saturday and

Friendly street art

remain closed all day on

Next was yet another highlight

Sunday. The few places

of our trip: A street art tour

open are very crowded

of Ghent. We went without a

with no free seats to be

guide but armed with a stylish

found. So if you want

leaflet indicating the optimal

to open a café, do it in

Ghent!

Most

street art route. On our street

the vegan places are

art tour we witness the peak of

closed on Sunday’s,

the unique Ghent-style brand

too. We finally got

friendliness. Just like in many

lucky at the lost

other cities, many of the graffiti

bread – the Pain

art works were blocked by cars

– but

– very unfortunate if you want

because

to take pictures. One resident

Perdue only we

got

there

noticed our frustration trying to 124

F U N FA C T The people of Ghent are extremely friendly. The men and women said a happy “Hello” and gave us a smile as we explored their city. Staff in cafés and restaurants are also incredibly courteous.

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F U N FA C T Ghent is the third best "historic city" chosen by the National Geographic Traveler magazine. It perfectly combines the old and the new.

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SAMSTAG – TAG 1

capture the colourful fantasy

Helena wanted to marry the guy

world (which reminded me of

right there and then and we spent

the kind of street art you find

the better part of the next few

in Queens). He approached

hours plotting how to discover

us smiling happily and said

an individual single from Ghent

something that seemed to

with the help of dating apps...

contain the word “parking” and drove his car away

Spring is in the air

from the wall. “How very fortunate” “he

was

just

somewhere

On Sunday afternoon, right on

thought

time as defined by meteorology,

going

spring

anyway“.

arrived!

Turning

onto

Vrijdagmarkt we were surprised

So we got our cameras

by a flash of blue. All the houses

out and started our photo session. And

on the south-west side of the

then we realised the

square seemed to be painted

man hadn’t driven

blue. We turned, blinked heavily

off at all. Instead we

and realised that we had missed how

saw him cruising

the

sky

had

suddenly

brightened and was now pouring

the back streets of

its beautiful bright blue down on

another parking

Ghent. What a difference the sun

space just so

makes! I seized the opportunity

we could enjoy

and took what must have been

the

graffiti

several hundreds of photos of

peace!

brilliantly sunny Ghent. 128

An afternoon odyssey It was time for lunch; and time

The machines, by the way, all had

for another small odyssey. I

names: Frans, Eliane and Jacob

didn’t mind walking from one

to name but a few. Even if things

restaurant to the next as it gave

didn’t

me a great opportunity to take

to the plans we had made

even more pictures of sunny

beforehand, and a walking 15

Ghent. When we got to the

kilometres a day can get tough,

last restaurant on our list and

we did learn something from

found another “closed” sign we

our trip to Ghent: When you’re in

decided to make our way back

the right company, anything can

to the very first café we had

be a fun adventure. At the first

discovered

beginning

glance Ghent is a city steeped in

of the trip. Wasbar is a bit of

history; look closer though and

a fusion venue, a launderette

you will see its lively, young and

and a café rolled into one. It

exciting side.

the

was the afternoon by then and unfortunately they had run out of bagels but we enjoyed our chai latte and another chance to observe the hustle and bustle around us. There were students working hard on their laptops and washing machines working

work

according

Sitting on the train back to the airport, happy but very tired, I realised that I had my best souvenirs right there with me: Heavy feet, a happy heart, a full stomach and a head filled with inspiration!

equally hard on their laundry. DEARSOUVENIR

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Hot Tips! recommended by locals

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@ m ar tv lie g

DE MAAGD

Tip

Beenie

De Melemeester on spottedbylocals.com

“Contemporary artist and painter Michaël Borresmans gave Ghent a very special gift. His first work in public space can be seen in the heart of the city. In 2014 the little fresco ‘De Maagd’ (The Virgin) was revealed. If you look closer, you’ll see a warm, dark and mysterious portrait of a young woman. You can find it on the new concrete clock tower next to the new City pavilion. Where you can find Borresmans’ signature, that’s something to discover yourself."

MOSQUITO COAST Tip by Jula “One must-see or hot tip- that is not really easy! When meeting with people visiting Ghent for the first time, I always try to go to Mosquito Coast. It is a restaurant with a traveller’s vibe and a huge enclosed terrace. In front there is a lounge bar set up as an African safari room.“

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An ak in

GHENT

vw W ik ip ed ia

VOORUIT Tip by Ghent Chronicles Blog “Vooruit is really the place you cannot miss when visiting Ghent, it's the perfect combination of history, culture & hotspot for having drinks & meeting people. They recently also built a colourful big terrace with an extra bar & a vertical vegetable garden, what more could we ask for?”

Louis Kerckhoff aka @rangeofsight captures the geometric shapes of Gent (picture of Vooruit on the right). His blog "The Street Generation" highlights his incredible talent.

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@rangeofsight

LOCAL INSTAGRAMMER

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@RANGEOFSIGHT Slightly obsessed with stairs lately. #vooruit #gent #visitgent #vooruitgent #thisisghent #architecture #archilovers #urban #streetdreamsmag #travel #cityscape #cityarchitecture #archiphotography #canonbelgium

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Read this! Hot Tips out of "The 500 Hidden Secrets of Ghent"

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BUY IT

BOOK ADVICE

Derek Blyth, writer and journalist who has lived in Belgium for more than 20 years published ″The 500 Hidden Secrets of Ghent″. Here you can find various tips about restaurants, culture, shops and more. Buy here . And check out Derek’s blog mysecretbrussels .

GELDMUNT Ghent is a mysterious city of meandering rivers that emerge in unexpected places. Some spots along the river are well known (Appelpark or Jan Breydelstraat) but there are a few places where you can be totally alone, like the area of grass reached down a lane off Geldmunt.

HOTSYTOTSY CLUB This classic jazz bar has been around since 1973. It was modelled on Al Capone’s Hotsy Totsy Club in Chicago. It is an unique jazz club where you can listen to blues or poetry deep into the night.

LIEVEBRUG This little bridge across the river Lievre is one of the most romantic spots in Ghent, with houses rising out of the water to the south and weeping willow trees lining the banks to the north. Yet almost no one ever comes here. DEARSOUVENIR

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STADSHAL Some local people call it the sheep shed. Others consider it a sublime modern building. The controversial Stadshal doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t leave anyone indifferent. It was designed in 2012 by the partnership Robbrecht & Daem and Marie JosĂŠ Van Hee to serve a modern covered hall for concerts and events.

LUC VAN HOOREBEKE The Van Hoorebeke family sells handmade chocolates in a handsome 19th century shop interior near the cathedral.

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RECIPES

t n e h G

AT HOME

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The most Belgian food? Waffles, of course. Everyones favourites, these sweet, fluffy treats are one of the most popular dishes in Belgium. Katharina KĂźllmer from ess.raum transforms the classic into a modern all-rounder. Her recipes are completely vegan, using products from Provamel to create savoury waffles. The breakfast parfait and spring burger are also sure to delight every foodie by bringing the dishes of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vegetarian capital Ghent into your kitchen. Have fun trying the recipes out and enjoy your meal!

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BREAKFAST

t i a f r a P

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The parfait is made from different layers, one more delicious than the other. Before assembling the final dish, use the recipes on this page to prepare every part.

NICECREAM CHAI HAZELNUT BUTTER

180 g bananas, sliced and frozen (~2 bananas)

200 g hazelnuts 2 cardamom pods

Download HERE

4 tsp ground cinnamon

40 ml Provamel almond milk

1 tsp ground aniseed

Â˝ vanilla pod

2 tbsp coconut oil, melted

40 g dates, dried and pitted 1 tsp chai hazelnut butter, see other recipe

CHIA BERRY JAM

450 g mixed berries, frozen

CHOC-NICECREAM

6 tbsp chia seeds

90 g bananas, sliced and frozen

3 tbsp acai powder 3 tsp rose water

30 g raw chocolate 75 ml Provamel almond milk

TOPPINGS â&#x20AC;Ś

25 g dates, dried and pitted

3 tbsp popcorn 3 tbsp granola (e.g. with dried fruit) Some chopped almonds Some chopped pistachios Blackberries, Pomegranate seeds, Blueberries, Kiwi berry, Cocoa nibs, Kumquat, Bee pollen

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DOWNLOAD ALL RECIPE CARDS

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HEARTY

s e l f f a W

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FOR THE WAFFLES

150 ml Provamel almond milk 1 sp lemon juice These waffles are improved by their green sides: edamame, avocado and dukkah provide plenty of healthy energy. Click HERE for the recipe.

60 g Provamel soy yoghurt 30 ml coconut oil, melted + some extra for the waffle iron 15 ml honey 25 g rolled oats 120 g whole wheat spelt flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp curcuma ½ tsp cayenne pepper ½ tsp salt

DUQQA SPICE BLEND

100 g mixed nuts (e.g. macadamia, almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios)

TOPPING

4 tbsp Provamel soy curd cheese

60 g sesame seeds

150 g fresh edamame

20 g ground cilantro/ coriander

1 tbsp sesame

20 g ground cumin ½ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp sea salt, crushed ½ organic lemon zest

Sea salt 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp macadamia nuts 1 tsp (coconut) sugar 2 avocados 1 organic lemon zest

VEGAN

r e g r u B

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The burger is also made up out of different parts which, once assembled, make up a true culinary highlight. Download the recipe HERE

FOR 4 BURGER BUNS

½ small pack of dry yeast

FOR THE GRILLED VEGETABLES

FOR THE FALAFEL

150 g sweet potato

150 g chick pea

150 g zucchini/ courgette

50 g beetroot, raw, grated

200 g egg plant/ aubergine

1 bunch of parsley

1 tbsp olive oil

1 ½ tsp salt

1 tbsp ground cumin

1 tsp cayenne pepper

Salt/pepper

1 organic lemon zest

1 clove of garlic

2 tbsp whole meal flour

1 tsp sugar

A trace of baking powder

60 ml lukewarm water

Coconut oil for frying

60 ml Provamel soy milk 200 g whole wheat flour ½ tsp sea salt 1 tsp curry powder 1 tsp coconut oil, melted

TOPPINGS

4 tbsp pumpkin seed butter (or another nut butter) 4 tbsp Provamel soy yoghurt 1 handful of arugula 1 handful of spring herbs Lemon zest Duqqa (see waffle recipe)

CUCUMBER SALAD

½ Gurke ½ cucumber 1 red chili pepper 1 tbsp Provamel soy yoghurt Sea salt

F U N FA C T PROVAMEL

Südafrika ist der zweitgrößte Produzent von Früchten weltweit.

To produce a litre of soy milk, half the land is needed a litre of cow’s milk would require.

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Looking for more inspiration? Check out the hashtag #Provamel on Instagram and post your own pictures to participate!

l e m a v #Pro

ALL RECIPES DOWNLOAD HERE BON APPETIT! 149

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mustard by Tierenteyn Verlent

OS: & T O PH os t n a S ld e s f i h r t C o R a r Sand

S: P & O e m PR r Da e i r r e Ma t s r Fรถ a n i N

postcards embroided by hand

150

vegan soap

Ginderella Gin

H G

(dark) chocolate

T EN

u o s

s r i n e v

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GINDERELLA Thanks to the no less than nine herbs that go into making it, this gin from Ghent has a truly special flavour. The recipe calls for three weeds, three plants used to kill weeds and three traditional herbs. Except for the pepper and the kaffir leaves all ingredients are sourced directly in Ghent. This souvenir has the true taste of the city! HEYNSQUARED

GHENT BUTTONS With this tiny souvenir you can carry the memory of your holiday everywhere you go. Provided you sew it to your favourite piece of clothing as soon as you get home. Or you could start a collection and add more cities in the future. STUKJE STAD

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MUSTARD BY TIERENTEYN VERLENT This traditional mustard has been sold at Groentenmarkt in the heart of Ghent since 1867. From classic smooth-textured mustards to more grainy options; there is something here for every mustard enthusiast. TIERENTEYN VERLENT

SOAP A small, portable souvenir with a great effect – and a wonderful scent. These natural soaps from vernacular production come in a seemingly endless variety of colours and aromas – and they’re vegan, too! BUBBLES AT HOME

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(DARK) CHOCOLATE Belgium is famous for its chocolate and it is well worth the trip! It also makes a sweet (in every sense of the word) souvenir. And while you’re buying for friends why not stock up yourself? This carefully selected set contains something for every taste – from fruity to crunchy. Nothing beats the taste of hand-made chocolate. HILDE DEVOLDER CHOCOLATIER

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THE POSTCARD Sure, this is a souvenir classic! This specimen, however, will not only reflect your love for the city it has been carefully hand-made. And it’s really practical, too, since you don’t have to explain to the recipient where you went on holiday: they’ll see! FIETJE PRECIES

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F U N FA C T The spelling of the city differs fundamentally in many languages. In Dutch it is called "Gent", in English a "h" sneaks into the writing (Ghent ) and the French call the second largest city of Belgium "Gand".

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Photo: Jakob Nonnen

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- Q U I C K FA C T S -

IRELAND JN

GUINNESS IS ALL WE NEED!

A highlight for all beer lovers is, of course, the Guinness Storehouse, which sits on the property of the over 250-year-old Guinness Brewery. The Storehouse is a seven-storey, multimedia adventure world, which you can cap off afterwards with a cold pint of Guinness in the 360-degree Panoramabar.

Photos: Jakob Nonnen

(JN)

Area: 70,182 km2 Population: 4.6 million Highest mountain: Carrantuohill (1038 m)

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Longest river: Shannon Carrantuohill (1038 m)

LANGAUGE

THE LAND OF SHEEP

Green meadows, rivers, lakes and plenty of sheep – that’s probably what most Western Europeans associate with this fascinating island country. But this land rich in history, tragedies, and settlements has endured a lot in its past. The first settlement in Ireland began around 7,000 BC, which was followed a while later by the arrival of Celtic-speaking families. After that, the Roman Kingdom was responsible for the Christianisation of the island state. English crown settlers from England and Scotland would descend upon Ireland centuries later, instigating ongoing religious conflict. A significant famine between 1845 and 1852 caused around 1.5 million Irish to starve to death and forced many to flee to the United States, which was followed by a brutal and bloody civil war at the beginning of the 20th Century. Political independence would ultimately lead to the establishment of the Irish Free State.

English and Irish (Gaelic) are the official langauges in Ireland. All roadsigns are lettered bilingual.

RAINWEAR

A must-have JN

WILD ATLANTIC WAY

This breathtaking coastal highway of more than 2,600 kilometres winds along Ireland’s coastline. From the County Donegal in the north along the west coast to County Cork in the south, travellers are treated to pure scenic beauty.

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CITIZEN OF HONOUR

Someone who becomes an honorary citizen of Dublin (such as Bono from U2) is entitled to graze sheep in St. Stephen‘s Green, a park in Dublin‘s city center. Photos: Ashley Ludäscher

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F U N FA C T The Guinness brewery in Dublin stands on leased land – the lease runs for 9,000 years at a cost from 45 Irish pounds per year. The contract will expire – as well asist the agreement on the Südafrika derwater zweitgrößte rights – in the year 10759.

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Photo: POM POM / shutterstock.com

Produzent von Früchten weltweit.

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T H E

C O N T R I B U T O R S

Our boarding crew TOUR GUIDE

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S T E P H A N I E C H A S TA I N

Stephanie Chastain is an Ireland travel blogger and itinerary coach for firsttime visitors to Ireland. She and her husband Joe travel to Ireland as often as they get the chance and share their experiences on InfiniteIreland.com .

infiniteireland.com

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NINA FÖRSTER G E R P A S S E N

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JAKOB NONNEN Jakob studies communication design with a focus on photography in Darmstadt. He loves great espresso, even better food and long conversations with interesting people.

jakobnonnen.tumblr.com laveravista

Nina Förster is a full-time media management student in Mittweida and just completed her internship in the content team of sisterMAG & Dearsouvenir. Here she‘s not only fully involved in the planning and realisation of the current issue, but also writes a number of articles and on top of that she conducts interviews and takes care of photo licenses. At home in Potsdam she enjoys long walks with her dog „Humphrey jr.“ or cooking something delicious from her dream destination South-East Asia together with her boyfriend. xing.com/profile/Nina

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#TGIF OUT FROM DUBLIN: A WEEKEND ESCAPE IN IRELAND

The weekendtrip

Friday County Wicklow

Saturday Kilkenny PHOTOS: Stephanie Chastain (SC)

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z.co map

Sunday County Carlow

While there are plenty of activities to keep anyone busy in the capital city of Dublin, my favourite weekend in Ireland requires hopping in the car and exploring the nearby countryside.

View locations on the map

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SC SC

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FRIDAY – DAY 1

COUNTY WICKLOW Wicklow is an easy drive from the Dublin Airport. Its spectacular scenery is a welcome introduction to the landscape of Ireland—the mountains, the lakes, even the seaside and forests seem to say céad míle fáilte (a traditional Irish greeting meaning one hundred thousand welcomes). My husband, Joe, and I diverted from the main road and went south on the R115, known as the Sally Gap . It’s a jawdropping ride through the mountains and valleys of the Wicklow National Park. The scenery is impressive even on a gloomy, cloudy day, but, if you’re lucky enough to have some sun, your eyes will stray constantly from the road to the rich green views on every side. Despite the weather, our destination, Glendalough , didn’t let us down. It’s an early Christian monastery circa DEARSOUVENIR

the 6th century nestled next to two lakes and the Wicklow Mountains. The Visitor’s Centre explains the history of the site, but we leisurely wandered the ruins and the lakes on our own. Walking among ancient ruins and tranquil lakes is hungry work and we found a perfect little local spot, the Roundwood Inn

. Joe

ordered the fried chicken and I had the vegetable soup. I might have eaten half of Joe’s chicken (delicious!) while we sat by the fireplace eavesdropping on two men at the bar gossiping about local politics over a pint. Properly refueled we were ready for some hiking. We parked the car at one of the two lots on the R759 and leisurely strolled on railway sleepers to the JB Malone Memorial. Talk about big reward for little effort! Here we eyed dazzling views of Lough Tay. Amusingly, it is also known as Guinness Lake for the bright white sand beach at the top of a very dark lake. 171

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Druid’s Glen Hotel 172

SATURDAY – DAY 2

KILKENNY The drive to Kilkenny is best enjoyed with stops along the way—Avoca is our favorite break. This charming village is famed for the setting of the BBC series Ballykissangel (you know I had to get a photo of Fitzgerald’s!). But it’s the Avoca Store, Mill and Café that we spent most of our time and money in that morning. Upon arriving at Kilkenny, most people immediately proceed to the castle. Its commanding presence is hard to ignore in this small city, but Joe and I checked out St. Canice’s Cathedral , one of only two places in Ireland where you can actually climb to the top of a medieval round tower. I don’t consider myself afraid of heights, but the near vertical switchback ladders had me seriously questioning that. Luckily, the stunning views of the city and the local historian that

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coincidently joined us at the top more than made up for it. Feeling a little hungry, Mocha‘s Vintage Tea Room & Restaurant was a perfect stop for lunch (meaning I ordered dessert) before doing a little shopping. While I am content to while away the hours discovering local artisans and their crafts at the Kilkenny Design Center , my husband has a nose for tracking down the nearest pint. We stumbled upon the Smithwicks Experience just a few blocks away, an interactive brew tour with the obligatory and delicious sample pint at the end. Kilkenny does not disappoint for evening entertainment. You could hop from pub to pub, but we found a cozy seat at Kyteler’s Inn where traditional Irish music played throughout the evening (and well into the night!).

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Photo: Wendy

Carriglea B&B

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SUNDAY – DAY 3

COUNTY CARLOW When you wake up to a traditional Irish breakfast, you know it is going to be a good day—eggs, sausage, toast, tomatoes, brown bread, freshly squeezed orange juice and, of course, Irish breakfast tea. With a full belly, we left the bustling town to explore the peaceful and empty countryside (save for countless adorable sheep!). It doesn’t take long to find Jerpoint Abbey — only about 20 minutes outside Kilkenny city. We definitely would have missed the intricate carvings alongside the walls of the chapel if it weren’t for our Office of Public Works tour guide. She expertly explained the history of the abbey while simultaneously quizzing us on our biblical knowledge (my husband clearly had a better childhood bible school teacher than I did).

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Reluctantly making our way toward Dublin, we stopped in County Carlow for a bite to eat at The Forge Restaurant . The roasted herb stuffed chicken breast with local potatoes and vegetables was the special of the day. If they have it, order it. You will not regret it. Our final stop for this whirlwind weekend getaway was Altamont Gardens , the most romantic garden in Ireland. Free admission and a lofty tagline had my expectations pretty low. But as we passed by the flowers and herbs and strolled along the stone path through the shady wood, I was suddenly wishing we had brought our food from the Forge Restaurant and brought it here for a picnic! I settled for a selfie underneath the gazebo, but I longed for a blanket, a book, and bottle of wine. Next time…

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“My favourite souvenir is the book ‘In Search of Ireland’ by H. V. Morton. My husband spotted it at a tiny used bookshop in Portrush, Northern Ireland. It chronicles the adventures of the author around Ireland in 1930. The book is worn with age and use from the previous owners and

now my endless reading and referencing. It reminds me of all of our trips to Ireland and inspires me to replicate Morton‘s grand tour. To me, the best souvenirs remind you of your fondest travel memories and inspire you to venture out again and again.“

My dearsouvenir by Stephanie Chastain

"In Search of Ireland" – a classic

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INTERVIEW: Nina Förster PHOTOS: The Burren Perfumery

LOCAL MAKER Burren

Perfumery

INTERVIEW WITH SADIE CHOWEN, THE BURREN PERFUMERY

Please tell us: Who stands behind ‘Burren Perfumery’? The Burren Perfumery is a family-run business so my husband and I share the running of the company. Our skills are quite different: he takes care of the operational side and I create new products, work on our fragrances, packaging design and the ambiance of the Perfumery. He says that I do all the creative bits and he does all the boring bits, but we overlap a lot too! How was the idea of ‘Burren Perfumery’ born? The Burren Perfumery was originally inspired by the unique floral diversity of the Burren region. 70% of Ireland’s flowering DEARSOUVENIR

plant species are present in this one tiny, beautiful region so it is a special place for anyone interested in flowers and scent. The West of Ireland also has a feeling of purity - the air is clear, the landscape is quite wild and unspoilt. These are ideas or values we try to bring into our products. You describe your products as handmade, natural and organic. May you describe how you create your cosmetics? I personally work on formulating the products, along with our cosmetic chemist, Rose. For cosmetics, we work together to create the base formulas and I test and review them over a period of months until I’m sure 179

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I’m happy. We follow the same process to create new scents: many, many trials and tests, months of reviewing and reconsidering (re-smelling!) until I’m sure I really like what we’ve made. It takes us about 2 years to develop a new fragrance from concept to finished product. We are very proud of our range of signature scents, hand-crafted soaps, certified organic creams and candles. It’s great that so many people like them and we enjoy being able to create something we like ourselves without having to follow the mass market as big brands do.

How does a working day look like for you? My work day is very varied, that’s part of being the owner of a small company! Sometimes I’m working on new products, sometimes I’ hiring staff; I could be working on new packaging designs with our designers, or sourcing ingredients, or tasting the soup in our Tearooms every day is different. We make all our products on site in the middle of the Burren. We have some lovely old stone buildings

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that we have converted to workshops and that’s where all the action is. It’s nice to be able to work in a beautiful location and it’s amazing what you can produce in a small space with a little ingenuity. What does your location in Burren, Ireland mean to you? I came to the Burren 25 years ago and fell in love with the place and the people. I have travelled a lot and I still love to come home to Ireland. There is a wild beauty to the landscape, to the ever-changing weather. The colours are beautiful, whether it is winter, spring, summer or autumn and the light is always changing. There is a calm here too, it’s a place to be connected

to the earth, to the weather, to the people. That helps me to keep my life in perspective. Do you try to represent Ireland in your products? If yes: How does that look like? Absolutely. I try to capture the essence of the west of Ireland in the scents that we use; to evoke, for example, the earthy, mossy feeling of walking through the green woodland in the Burren, or the fresh, clean feeling of being on an unspoilt beach in west of Ireland. We build our products around a concept of six scent ‘families’, each based on the feeling or sense of different aspects of the rural Irish landscape: ‘Lost Garden’, for example, was inspired by

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the overgrown gardens that one sees around ruined cottages where wild roses grow over the tumbled walls. ‘Grassland’ is based on the wild flower meadows that grow in the Burren, flecked with orchids amidst the blowing grasses. We also have ‘Woodland’, ‘Herb Garden’, ‘Atlantic Coast’ and ’Irish Limestone’.

mixers and heaters, so that we can reproduce our products consistently and, of course, our chemist uses modern technology to test our products for safety, pH, etc. but basically it’s pots and pans, heating, cooling, and stirring. The ingredients are things that you could find in the kitchen: things like olive oil, sunflower oil, fresh and dried herbs, flowers, and oils extracted from flowers and seeds.

Your production of e.g. your soaps looks quite traditional – do you work with traditional techniques?

Where do you get your inspirations for new products from?

Yes. We’re very small scale and when you make your products by hand, you’re really using simple techniques that have been around for hundreds (or in the case of soap, thousands) of years. Cold process soap making only requires oils and lye, heating and stirring. The base of a cosmetic cream is just water and oils blended (just like a mayonnaise!). There is nothing we make that you couldn’t make in your kitchen, with some practice! We use some special

I’m never short of inspiration! I have many more ideas for products than we have time to make! You never know when inspiration will strike. Sometimes I’ll be in our herb garden gathering fresh herbs for a tea and some combination of herbs in my hand will evoke a feeling or bring up a memory. Or I could be on a walk with my family in the Burren and want to capture the sense of freshness in the spring air, or the quietness of a wood.

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“I have many more ideas for products than we have time to make! You never know when inspiration will strike.“

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Our main topic of this issue is #TGIF (Thank God it’s Friday): What is your compound with Friday?

We always write about different locations and souvenirs: What is your favourite souvenir and why?

That’s funny. We’re open 7 days a week, 52 weeks of the year, so we don’t really know what Friday is! And when you are the owner of a small business, you never really stop working. But we do try to keep weekends for family and relaxing. I always stop for a cup of tea with my husband at five o’clock. And I guess my Friday cup of tea is extra special because it closes the working week for us.

When I look around my house, I find that my souvenirs are mostly things to touch and hold: shells and stones, fabrics or ceramics, a coffee cup from Norway, a vase from Vienna. I think my favourite souvenir is a beautiful handmade silk shawl I brought back from India. I look at it every day and think about the hundreds of hours of beautiful stitching that made it.

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What is your favourite spot in Ireland and why? That’s both difficult and easy. Ireland has so many special places, but the Burren is, of course, my favourite. What I love about the Burren is the diversity: there’s the ocean and the mountains, the harsh, barren rock and the hidden valleys of woods and flowers. I have lived here half my life and I still find new things, new wonders every time I go out for a walk. It’s a magical place full of secrets.

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F U N FA C T

In Ireland live fewer Irishmen than outside of Ireland â&#x20AC;Ś In Spite of the marvellous scenery the emigration rate on the green island is high. The most expats are drawn to the United States.

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handmade glasses Irish wool Folkolore books

Irish souvenirs Tip by the Dearsouvenir crew

Irish Ales Claddagh ring organic hygiene products

RC PHOTOS: Nerissaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s Ring (NR) CC-BY 2.0 Royal Claddagh (RC) CC-BY 2.0

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IRISH WOOL SWEATER Wool products are typical souvenirs from Ireland. This makes sense, of course, in honour of the country’s title as the Land of Sheep. Blarney Woolen Mills’ Aran sweaters

Blarney Woolen Mills is famous for its Aran sweaters.

are especially renowned. A company steeped in history, 1750 saw the construction of the first wool mill.

HANDMADE GLASSES THAT TELL A STORY You’ll find a plethora of unusual and lovingly crafted glasses, vases and decanters at Jerpoint Glass Studio. Exceptional handiwork is again at the forefront of this business – the Irish family venture works with a small team of glassblowers and creates products that “tell a story.”

Handmade glasses to be found at jerpointglass .

ORGANIC HYGIENE PRODUCTS FROM BURREN The Burren Perfumery produces handmade natural and organic cosmetics in the karst landscape of Ireland’s County Clare. From the soap room to an herb garden, customers can observe every detail of the small business’ production process. Might we suggest an Organic Honey and Beeswax Lip & Face Balm as a souvenir? Perfectly suitable for your carry-on.

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The team of The Burren Perfumery produce handmade organic hygiene products.

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IRISH ALES The White Hag produces a variety of ales.

The White Hag is an Irish brewery that, in addition to stouts and classic beers, also produces a variety of ales with diverse tastes

IRISH FOLKLORE BOOKS

Typical folklore books you can find at Charlie Byrne‘s Shop .

Myths, fables and magic – a typical Irish folklore book about Irish legends is not just an excellent gift for recipients at home, but also a fantastic way to shorten your return trip. Charlie Byrne‘s Bookshop invites you to rummage through their collection.

Thomas Dillion’s Claddagh is the oldest jewellery in Ireland.

A RING FOR LOVE, FRIENDSHIP AND LOYALTY

There is hardly a more typical souvenir than a finger ring from the Irish fishing village of Claddagh. Two hands hold a heart that wears a crown – it symbolizes love, friendship and loyalty. Thomas Dillion‘s Claddagh Gold is the oldest jeweller in Ireland and still sells their signature, original rings to this day.

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BYE

SLÁN

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The Art of Travelling VISITING IRELAND ON A HOUSEBOAT As Chinese philosopher Confucius already knew, “The journey is the destination.” In the upcoming issues of Dearsouvenir we will take you on trips where the journey and art of travel are definitely more important than the final stop. We’ll bring to life trips on which breathtaking moments, stunning landscapes, nature, and culture can be experienced in a special way. Johanna Stöckl kicks it off on a houseboat through Ireland.

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G E R N A S S A P

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JOHANNA STÖCKL As a freelance journalist, Johanna Stöckl works for several daily newspapers and magazines. Her preferred topics are sports and travel. Johanna lives in Munich. When she’s not sitting in front of the computer, the native Austrian goes to the mountains. On quiet days, she enjoys reading books and thrilling sports reports. Johanna knows Ireland from several hiking trips, and will never forget the entertaining days on a houseboat with her friends. The many green areas and humourous people are just a few of the things Joanna loves about Ireland. What she brought back from the island? Whiskey, of course! johannastoeckl.de JSALPS

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ANCHORS AWEIGH Our houseboat gently rocks on

In the soft light of the last rays of sunshine, I am sitting on the upper deck and absentmindedly look over the reeds while Katja hands me an espresso and a small glass of Irish whiskey. Although I am not an enthusiast of spirits, the distillate with the smoky aroma in combination with my coffee suddenly tastes really good. I enjoy every sip. Is it because of the charming scenery that we landed in? Or is it because of the fun be are having with our first nonstop houseboat trip? I take one more sip. From downstairs, I hear the giggles of Anne and Alexandra who are about to prepare our dinner in the galley.

the surface of the water. The permanent

and

slight

ripple

helps me to relax. It seems as if the water slowly wants to lull me to sleep. I am blissful and far away from my everyday life. Our 14-meter long mobile home is called by the melodious name ‘Magnifique’ and, as the captain’s manual told me, weighs 12 tons. But you don’t recognize it in view of the elegance of the lady. Our houseboat provides space for six people. We are four girls on it. My cabin is small, reduced to the essentials but somehow cozy. Next to the bed, there is a small folding table and a

LE BOAT:

The houseboat company Le Boat, a subsidiary of TUI, rents more than 900 houseboats throughout Europe. This includes the fleet of Emerald Star, the Irish branch of Le Boat.

www.leboat.de

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shelf. My own washroom adds a shower, a sink, and a toilet on half a square metre. Compared to that, our lounge with a big table and a comfortable sitting area offers a lot of space. Also on board: a bike for each of us.

a boating license in Ireland in order to rent a houseboat. After less than two days, each of us can steer the ‘Magnifique’ without any difficulties. We even argue about who gets to take the wheel.

From the first evening in the marina of Boyle, we are in love with our houseboat. We only leave it to run errands or to quickly explore the sleepy town we arrive in. Also, a houseboat trip binds people together and works only if everybody gets their hands dirty, as there is always a lot to do on board – especially on the Shannon-Erne Waterway, which we navigate for four days. There are a lot of bridge passages and floodgates. That’s why it helps that Katja already did trips with a houseboat. She takes commando, gives us novices a crash course in maneuvering, and teaches us node techniques. Of course, an expert gives us instructions at the starting point of our trip, in the harbour of Carrick-on-Shannon. That’s because you don’t need

The moderate pace of the houseboat is especially beautiful and calming. Because of the low drop, the water of the ShannonErne Waterway runs so slow that it seems you could overtake the

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SHANNON-ERNE WATERWAY The Shannon-Erne Waterway is the 63-kilometre connection channel between the River Shannon (Republic of Ireland) and the River Erne that mainly flows through Northern Ireland. Along with the River Shannon, Loch Erne and the Grand Canal, the Shannon-Erne Waterway is part of the biggest houseboat territory in Europe. More than 800 kilometres of connected waterways are available for hobby captains. DEARSOUVENIR

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boat while swimming. Even when we increase the speed to the max, we never exceed 15 kilometres per hour. Those who are in a hurry are out of position on board, but those who want to celebrate the slowness and tranquility quickly will feel good on a houseboat. During the trip, you can perceive and enjoy every detail of the landscape that passes by. And because you approach Ireland by sea, you see plants and animals that normally stay hidden on a trip. Anne takes pictures of weird cream-coloured cows with really plush ears. They look like oversized cuddly toys. We see myriads of sheep. Over and over again, there are sheep. And once, a rare turquoiseorange kingfisher visited us on board. Sometimes, especially in the early morning and late evening, the high humidity puts a gentle fog on the landscape

and makes it look pictureperfect. The colours of nature seem damped. Only the glitter of the microscopic water drops that settled on all the plants and leaves near the river prove that we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sail through a painting. The Irish autumn landscape is enchantingly beautiful. Even in the rain. If it pours, which often happens briefly and heavily in Ireland, there is a radiator in the boat that keeps it warm inside. But outside, at the steering position on the upper deck, it can get bitterly cold if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the right clothes. Watertight jackets and pants, fleece sweaters, and a warm cap are indispensable and have to be part of your travel baggage before

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you get on board. On the third day, we landed in Leitrim and biked several hours on the Sheermore Trail. In the evening – it was a Saturday – we went into a pub. It was jam-packed. Live

music

and

hustle.

The whole town gathered. Young and old, women and men, all social classes. The pub is a place where there are no differences. Everybody is welcome if they want to leave the everyday life behind and party. We girls quickly make friends and toast with a Guinness, the mother’s milk of the Irish. But soon the place gets too loud for us and we are lured back by our boat, where we have peace. And where we still have enough whiskey.

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Photo: Matthias Heiderich

/ @massju

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– Q U I C K FA C T S –

SEOUL

TEA CEREMONY

A culinary highlight of a visit to South Korea is a tea ceremony, the darye. These are often held at the old palaces and so provide a perfect opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. When tea was first consumed in South Korea it was reserved for the upper classes: at court it was consumed as a luxury food and monks appreciated its ability to “keep them awake” during meditation. A tea ceremony starts with the cleaning of the tea dishes by the master of tea. Then the tea leaves are added and water poured over them. This first brew is not drunk, however, only consequent infusions are divided into cups and drunk together. 206

Population: 10,094,889 Highest building: Three IFC Office Tower (279 metres) River: Hangang TRADITION & MODENITY

WHAT A BEAUTIFUL CITY! – JUNO KIM –

With just over 10 million inhabitants, Seoul is amongst the largest cities in the world. Its population density of around 16,000 people per square kilometre is also on the high end of the scale for such a big city. Seoul lies on the banks of the Hangang River which provides the city’s main source of fresh water. Seoul’s old palaces, traditional markets and modern shopping centres draw in many tourists. The city has an extensive Metro network but also a range of tour routes which are best explored on foot and afford visitors an insight into both the historical and modern life in Seoul. Get ready to discover and fall in love with traditional and contemporary South Korea alike!

SOUTH KOREA

O U R

C O N T R I B U T O R S

The boarding crew TOUR GUIDE

runawayjuno.com

SEOUL

runawayjuno

R U N A WA YJ U N O

Juno Kim is an award-winning storyteller, writer and photographer at Runaway Juno Media (RunawayJuno.com), who originally worked as an engineer in Seoul. Since leaving her job she has been living out of a backpack, writing and photographing her way through more than 50 countries for the last three years. She’s been participating in numerous global-wide new media campaigns as a digital influencer. She also opened several photography exhibitions. Juno initiated the Asian Women’s Empowerment Connect and hosted its first annual conference in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to empower Asian women to pursue their passions. PASSENGER

M AT T H I A S HEIDERICH

SEOUL

NENGYI SHI

… is a freelance

is photograf, who Singapore resident. lives in Berlin. He Howewer we has a special eye …

actually

show a couple of for perspectives, and his South Korean shapes snapshots he shared architecture. on his Instagram account.

iamnynynny

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PASSEN

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F U N FA C T

Smartphone & robot vaccum cleaners â&#x20AC;&#x201C; yawn. Apartments in Seoul can now be controlled from cell phones and central keypads. Samsung Electronics reps say that facialrecognition will soon be introduced as an addition to bio-recognition security systems..

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Photo: Matthias Heiderich / @massju

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#TGIF TRIP TO SEOUL

The weekend trip

Friday: Gwangjang Sijang

Saturday: Daehangno PHOTOS: Juno Kim (JK) Nengyi Shi (NS)

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map

Sunday: Buyeo

z.co

Seoul, the biggest, busiest and most complex city of Korea has always been the centerpiece for artists. There were songs, poems and stories all centred around this glorious city. Rightfully so, Seoul’s economic development during the last 30 years is record breaking. No country in the world has seen this “Miracle on the Han River”, that means the rapid reconstruction and development of the economies of South Korea after the Korean War.

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JK JK

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GWANGJANG SIJANG

SEOUL Shopping, eating and people

the week. Once you enter, the

watching: all-in-one Gwangjang

world

(Jongro 5 ga station,

Sijang

Metro line 1)

transformed

100 years into the past. The life here is fast, loud and raw. Gwangjang Sijang

Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colourful and traditional souvenirs are always the best gift to bring home. Insadong is the most famous street for visitors, but today you might want to forget Insadong in favour of one of the less

back

travelled

districts!

Gwangjang Sijang, which is just four blocks away, is one of the biggest and oldest traditional markets

Originally

is famous

for tailor-made hanbok (Korean traditional dress) for the locals. For visitors, souvenir shopping and eateries are the two most important

reasons

visit.

Follow the smell of bindaeddeok (mung

bean

and

vegetable

pancake) on the ground floor! The savoury smell and sound of frying welcomes visitors early in the morning. Along with that, gimbab (Korean sushi), tteokboki

Seoul.

(rice cakes in red chili pepper

named

sauce), eomuk (fish cakes) and

Dongdaemun Sijang in 1905, it was the

soondae

(noodles

stuffed

pigs intestine) are some of the

permanent

signature street foods of Korea.

traditional market

For more curious eaters, find

first to

every

opened day

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yukhoe (raw beef) alley, which is usually poplar at night. On the

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PHOTO: Juno Kim

SOUTH KOREA

same floor of some of the best

Korean wedding photos are like

Korean food youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll eat, you will

looking at a dancing rainbow.

find rows of souvenir shops. They come in all shapes and colours. Traditionally, Koreans love using colours in their daily life. When you see hanbok, for both men

From colourful tote bags to wallets, from coasters to hand mirrors, there are more than enough things to commemorate

and women, they are made with

your time in Korea. And these

all shades of colours. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why

souvenirs are very affordable.

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DAEHAGNO: SEOUL’S WEST END

SEOUL

As an old saying, you have

of street art.

to learn the culture to get

Not only will you see Seoul’s

to know the people. Where to do it? Come to Daehagno. Daehangno

has played an

important role in Korea’s modern theatre culture. This used to be an area where college students gathered when the university was located here, but now it’s Seoul’s version of Broadway. Many cultural art organisations

Banksy in this district, but also countless

small

theatres

for

plays and musicals are located here. Because there are so many shows

each

day,

discounted

tickets are available year round. It’s a great place to visit if you are an art lover. Most of the shows are in Korean, but I truly believe that art is transferrable. And it’s a

related to plays, movies, concerts

lot of fun to see a classic musical,

and musicals moved in. It’s one

like Grease, transferred over

of the only places in Seoul where

to another language! (Hyehwa

you can encounter many types

station, Metro line 4)

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DAY TRIP

BUYEO Before South and North Korea,

finding. First, one of the most

this peninsula used to be the

beautiful masterpieces Koreans

home of the Three Kingdoms:

ever made, Gilt-bronze Incense

Baekje,

Silla

Burner of Baekje is one of the

During

years

and of

Goguryeo. dynamic

most

significant

symbols

changes, the country Baekje (18

Baekje’s artistry and Korean art.

BC - 660 AD) ruled most of the

It’s amazing to see the amount

western peninsula, including

of symbolism this small object

nowadays Seoul. Baekje was

shows.

famous for the fine taste in

Treasure of Korea is located in

Buddhist art and craftsmanship,

National Museum of Buyeo

which created many crucial

(37-5 Dongnam-ri, Buyeo-eup)

This

287th

National .

national treasures. In the middle of the residential Buyeo was Baekje’s capital, 538-

area, there’s the stone pagoda

660 AD, during which it was

of Jeongnimsa Temple Site. It is

called Sabi Fortress. It’s the perfect place for a short trip from Seoul. Although Buyeo is a small town, it’s an important location in Korea’s history.

a five-story pagoda standing on a single narrow and low base pedestal that was built in Baekje era (6-7th century). The pagoda highly valued as an original

There are a lot of national

style of stone pagodas in Korea

treasures

from

and also highly valued as one

Baekje’s prime days, which you

of the two last remaining stone

can find all over Buyeo. Three

pagodas from the Baekje Era.

of them are particularly worth

(83 Jeongnim-ro)

left

behind

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Korea’s first artificial lake, Gungnamji, offers four different looks in each season. The most famous scene is in summer, when all the lotus flowers bloom in the area. The water brought through the waterway is used to plant the beautiful

cherry trees, while the island in the middle

of the pond symbolises the Bangjang Burial Mound.

HOT TIP: Only two hours away by a long-distance bus you can get to Buyeo. Although Buyeo is a small town, it’s an important location

Korea’s

history.

It’s

the

perfect place for a short trip from Seoul.

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F U N FA C T

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PHOTO & FACT: weltenbummlermag

A lot of South Koreans spend their holiday on the island of Jeju. One of the most popular activities: Going on a boat in a circle. For this recreational fun many tourists even accept a long wait.

“My favourite souvenir is jewellery, especially earrings. I usually buy indigenous or traditional style jewelleries from places I go. The delicate detail of the items is more significant to me than other souvenirs. I enjoy wearing jewelleries, especially something that’s unique and meaningful.

Earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets are easy to travel with and a great reminder of my previous travels and the people I met. This photo was taken in Mexico with a Nayarit traditional beads artist. The earring I’m wearing is made by him. This is one of my favourite earrings I’ve ever bought to this day.”

My Dearsouvenir by Juno Kim

Earrings from Mexiko

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INTERVIEW: Nina Förster PHOTOS: KimHyuonJoo

LOCAL MAKER

Kim Huyon Joo

INTERVIEW WITH KIM HUYON JOO

Please tell us: Who stands behind ‘Kim HyunJoo studio’?

What is most important to you

I created the company three years ago, after working for various companies in Korea. My approach has always been to combine quality material with an IT-driven approach, to break down barrier between design and craft. That is the emphasis of Kim HyunJoo Studio.

Quality. That’s it.

while designing?

What does a working day look like for you? Where do you design? What is important for your working atmosphere? I work in my studio in sangsudong. I am not obsessed with any particular working atmosphere,

What do you do?

I like to work in a relaxed, happy

As an industrial designer, I do specific client projects, design projects and consultancy, and I produce a line of living accessories mainly in stone (usually marble) and hand-made paper (usually Hanji).

and easy mood. We listen to

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music,

the

radio,

whatever

helps us to think creatively.

also travel a lot and am happy to develop ideas on the road, in

the

China

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UK, or

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Italy, wherever

Germany, I

am.

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I saw you are working with the

What is so special about Hanji paper?

traditional Hanji paper – what does tradition mean to you?

Hanji paper as raw material offers many possibilities. As a hand-crafted paper, it has a real quality to it (though actually there is a good quality machinemade hanji paper as well). There are so many different ways to manipulate it. The combination of a contemporary vision with traditional material is very powerful I think. It is the next modernism.

Do you implement traditional aspects in your work? I’m not seeking to replicate traditional design, but I am deeply

attracted

natural

and traditional materials. Hanji paper is one such material; it has a unique texture, it is very durable, and it is light-weight. I don’t especially think of Hanji as a traditional material but as a new material with many ‘tradition’ implies where I am

Which role does Korea play for you?

from, and what is inside of me.

It is important to me that I am

different possibilities. For me

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Korean. I think every culture has its special qualities, of art, food, architecture, lifestyle. And design is part of that: all good design reveals the culture it is made in, while speaking to a world audience. Le Corbusier and Mies Van der Rohe invented the International Style, but they were also obviously French and German. It is the same with me I think: I make use of my Korean heritage, but I also operate in an international environment.

the world,

what

we could see and do. But now the world is wide open, and we can see so much more, and get completely

new

experiences.

This helps us to expand our vocabulary and allows us to try different things, both with our traditions and with things from outside.

What was the most fascinating thing you produced? Which was

What would you say is typically modern Korean design? And what is different from traditional Korean design?

the hardest to produce? I am always fascinated by the design process, no matter what the design task is. In practical terms, I

For me, there is a poetry to both traditional and contemporary Korean design. Much of it is based around nature I think. The difference is, contemporary design has more options, and more technologies.

think my marble furnishings and living accessories are the most challenging, which adds to the fascination.

Is there something you try to

It is important to remember that Korea is a peninsula in East Asia, we have always traded and had exchange with China and Japan. In the past, that was the most important thing. There were limitations in our experience of

implement in every work you do? Quality is everything. Because of this, my work is driven by material, and I think this is at the core of it. And process: process grips me.

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4 QUESTIONS FOR

KIM HYUNJOO

#TGIF Do you have any rituals on Fridays?

What is your favourite spot in South Korea and why?

Not really. I like to have fun. Kim HyunJoo Studio is in the middle of a district of Seoul that never sleeps: I work, and I enjoy myself, 24 hours a day. Likewise, when I am in Europe, in the UK or Germany, I use Fridays to work and to play: cinema, galleries, eating, and of course, I enjoy pub life.

I love the coast. Sokcho is an eastern city with a beautiful sea and amazing mountains. I enjoy swimming in the sea, and I love fresh sea food.

What are your favourite souvenirs and why?

What is your favourite travel destination?

I enjoy shopping in local design stores. I love small items like stationery and tableware.

I love Jeju island in South Korea, and recently I have discovered small towns in the UK. Norwich, a small ancient city in eastern England, is a favourite place at present. And I love Berlin.

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SOUTH KOREA EC

chopsticks

Hanji paper

South Korean souvenir

Ginseng & Omija

Tips from the Dearsouvenir crew

seaweed snack cosmetics

TH HM

PHOTOS: HMart (HM) Everything Chopstick (EC) The Hanji (TH) Jolse (JO)

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HANJI PAPER The traditional Hanji paper is not only typically Korean, but also very in demand for artists worldwide. It is made from the bark of the mulberry tree and directly translates as “Korean paper.” Those who can’t use the paper to craft their own creations can buy

Traditional Hanji paper to be bought at thehanji

lanterns, trays and similar items made of Hanji. SEAWEED SNACK - GIM For some, seaweed might sound a bit strange at first but in Korea it’s a common and popular snack on the go. Dried seaweed is ideal on the go, and it is also used in all

Gim is ideal for hand luggage and can be bought at hmart

kinds of dishes in its fresh form. KOREAN COSMETICS BB, pearl powder, slimming face masks and lightening creams - in Korea you can get highquality beauty products for comparatively low prices and will definitely find a few

Typically Korean cosmetics can be found at jolse

oddities in between. GINSENG A souvenir with powerful effect. For over 5,000 years, the root of this healing plant has been used as a medicine. It is especially helpful in fighting fatigue, weakness and loss of concentration.

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hollandandbarret sells Ginseng in the form of tea or capsules

SOUTH KOREA

OMIJA Traditional tea form South Korea at tradekorea

Korea boasts a rich tea-drinking culture, which makes tea an excellent gift to bring home from your trip. Omija is a typical Korean five-taste tea, combining sweet, bitter, sour, salty and spicy. Made from Schisandra berries, it has a reddish color and is incredibly healthy. It strengthens the heart, lowers blood pressure and even improves breathing. A little warning: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only hand luggage compatible in a bag or as loose tea.

KOREAN CHOPSTICKS Buy online at everythingchopsticks

Typical Korean chopsticks are made of stainless steel, unlike those in China and Japan, which are made from natural materials. They also differ in length. Historically, the silver ones were only reserved for the king because the colour would change in the event that they were poisoned. A set usually includes a spoon as well.

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Photo: Matthias Heiderich / @massju

BYE

JAL-GA!

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ARIZONA

PHOTO: Kayla Snell

DE S T I NAT ION

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CONTINENT : NORTH AMERICA

ARIZONA | TUCSON

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ARIZONA

– Q U I C K FA C T S –

TUCSON

OLD TUCSON STUDIOS

Originally, they were meant just to be a film set but in 1960 they were extended to become an amusement park in the Tucson Mountain Park, Arizona. They were used as location for “Little House on the Prairie”, “Rio Bravo” and “The Quick and the Dead”.

LR LR

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AREA:

505,3 km2 FEDERAL STATE:

Arizona

POPULATION:

520.116 (2010)

SURROUNDED BY 5 MOUNTAIN CHAINS

Surrounded by 5 mountain chains in the middle of the Sonoran Desert, we find the second largest city of Arizona – Tucson. Those who eventually visit Tucson will experience the Spanish and Mexican influences in the city. Tucson is just 60 miles away from the Mexican border. So it’s not surprising that the Spaniards explored the larger area and that Tucson was part of their catchment area. Battles between the natives, the Navajo tribe, and the Spaniards were unavoidable. Nowadays, tourists are attracted by the nature, the history and the leisure opportunities. Hiking, enjoying traditional food, visiting galleries and the old film studio and playing golf – it surely doesn’t get boring! LR

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T H E

C O N T R I B U T O R S

Our boarding crew T O U R

P A S S E N G E R

G U I D E

TUCSON

DONNA HULL Freelance writer, Donna L. Hull, is checking off adventures one trip at a time at My Itchy Travel Feet The Baby Boomer’s Guide to Travel. She is also the author of Coloring the West, An Adult Coloring Book for Travelers and New Mexico Backroads Weekend Adventure.

LISA RODEN Lisa Roden is a passionate photographer, printer and archivist living in Tucson, Arizona. Most of her works arise here, in “old pueblo“. artfirelisajo.wordpress.com lisajoroden

myitchytravelfeet.com

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Tucson is surrounded by the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s largest density of columnar cacti (or saguaro cacti which you can see in this picture)

F U N FA C T S With 350 sunny days a year Tucson is literally the sunniest city in the United States of America.

Foto: Lisa Roden

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#TGIF TRIP TO TUCSON

@an

gela

shoo

tsaz

The weekendtrip

Friday: Sabino Canyon

PHOTOS: Lisa Roden (LR) | Angela J (AJ) @angelashootsaz

Saturday: Downtown Tucson

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z.co

Sunday: Sonoran Desert

map

Tucson, Arizona, offers a mĂŠlange of cultural and outdoor activities. Approximately 63 miles north of the Mexican border, the Old Pueblo, as the city is known, has a strong Spanish flavor thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s u by the cowboy culture of the Old West. Toss in modern influences of a major university, the lush Sonoran desert, dark, night skies perfect for stargazing and you have a recipe for weekend fun in the Southwestern U.S.

View locations on the map

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HOT TIP: The Arizona Inn in midtown Tucson serves as a convenient headquarters for a 3-day insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weekend. Since the 1930â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, the late Isabelle Greenway and her family have presided over 14 acres of flower-filled beauty in the heart of Tucson. The 92-room boutique hotel has hosted politicians, celebrities and history makers in unassuming, yet luxurious, surroundings.

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FRIDAY – DAY 1

NO LIMITS

Start the morning like locals

the day exploring the 5 hangars

do with a walk or run in Sabino

and outdoor displays at the

Canyon Recreation Area

Pima Air and Space Museum.

Tucson’s Northeast side.

Did you know that Tucson has

Part of the Coronado National

Forest, the canyon offers paved

additional ticket purchased at

and dirt trails with views of rocky

the museum provides a tram tour

mountain peaks accompanied by gurgling Sabino Creek. Be sure to complete your walk before 9:00 a.m. when motorized tram traffic begins on the main trail. Are you hungry? A delicious Italian breakfast is waiting at close-by Piazza Gavi on N. Kolb Road. Spend the rest of

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airplane

graveyard?

of the U.S. Air Force Boneyard at nearby Davis-Monthan Air Force Base. The Sonoran desert’s dry climate acts as a preservative for thousands of mothballed airplanes and jet fighters. It’s hot in the desert so bring water.

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PHOTO: Donna Hull

ARIZONA

HOT TIP | SUNSET-SPOT:

To end the day, head to Saguaro National Park West in the Tucson Mountains for sunset. While the Hohokam Rd. Loop is popular, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an insider tip: arrive at the park via Picture Rocks Road. After stopping to view the petroglyphs near Redemption Renewal Center, continue over the mountains. Turn left onto Golden Gate Road to brave a rough, dirt road to Ez-Kim-InZin picnic area. Enjoy a picnic in the hillside ramada, where birds serenade as you wait to view a dramatic desert sunset followed by stargazing.

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SATURDAY – DAY 2

DOWNTOWN

Begin the day with breakfast

Then backtrack to the Arizona

on the patio at the Arizona Inn.

Inn and beyond to explore the

You’ll be tempted to linger in

Mini

the garden setting but there’s

of Miniatures

a city to explore. And you’ll be

Lowell Rd. Strolling the 10,000

seeing it on one of the Arizona

square feet of miniature art

Inn’s complimentary bicycles

displays instills an appreciation

available to guests.

for all things tiny. The world-class

Time

Machine

Museum

on East Camp

museum offers over 300 antique The

famous

photographer, cofounded

American

Ansel

the

Adams,

Center

for

Creative Photography , located at the University of Arizona, about a 9-minute bicycle ride from the Arizona Inn. Admission to the center is free. Inside, a gallery hosts changing exhibitions that feature new acquisitions. Visitors may also browse through drawers housing a sampling of the vast photography collection.

and

contemporary

and room boxes. From here, the bike path along the Rillito River is a short pedal away. Plan a return to the Arizona Inn in time to clean up for dinner and to access your rental car.

It’s less than a mile to the dining and shopping district on 4th Avenue, a good choice for lunch.

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angelashootsaz.org

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HOT TIP: Tucson is known for Mexican dining choices. Insiders will tell you that CafĂŠ Poca Cosa in downtown Tucson tops the list. The sleek, upscale setting complements the innovative menu that changes daily. Reservations recommended.

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SUNDAY – DAY 3

SONORAN DESERT

Breakfast Bistro’s‌‌ ‌

the

Garden

patio at Tohono Chul

side of town, continue driving to Catalina State Park

near

Park is a favorite beginning to a

Oro Valley. You’ll find hiking

Tucsonan’s day. Birds dip their

trails

beaks into the fountain or flit

numerous ranger-led activities.

about waiting for a tasty crumb

End the day with a prickly

to drop on the flagstone patio.

pear

margarita

Walk off a breakfast of Huevos

patio

Rancheros on a tour through

Mountain

the demonstration gardens and

As the sun dips below the

nature trails.

Tortolita Mountains, a Native

all

abilities

Ritz-Carlton

plus

the Dove

in nearby Marana.

American scrambles to the top There’s no better way to explore

of a rocky outcropping where

the Sonoran Desert than on

he plays his flute to the colorful

a hike. And the opportunities

hues of a desert sunset. It’s a

are endless in Tucson. Since

peaceful way to end your Tucson

you’re already on the Northwest

insider’s weekend.

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PHOTO: angelashootsaz

ARIZONA

F U N FA C T Tucson originates in the language of Tohono-O’OdhamIndians. The name of their territory, Chuk Shon, means „at the foot of the black mountain“.

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“Jewellery is my favorite souvenir because it’s easy to transport home. It’s also easy to find jewelry at many different price points, which is convenient

if I’m watching my budget. Every time I wear a piece of jewelry from a trip, usually a bracelet, memories of the journey come flooding back.”

My dearsouvenir by Donna Hull

jewellery

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TEXT & PHOTO: Susan Sorg

LOCAL MAKER

Arizona

NIZHONI RANCH GALLERY Iconic images of the Old West are often of Monument Valley captured in countless movies, or the rough and tumble life shared by cowboys and horses in Tombstone. Both are in Arizona, but about an eight hour drive apart, so how is it possible to combine both in one day, especially if you’re staying in Tucson?

You

can capture the essence of both with a 45 minute drive to the southeast.

Sonoita Sonoita has a reputation for its

The Navajo Indian reservation

fine vineyards and wineries, but

comprises 27,425 square miles,

there’s a hidden gem which can be

and covers the corners of three

even more intoxicating than the

states: Arizona, New Mexico and

headiest wine offered: The peace

Utah.

and timeless beauty found in

reservation in the US, but also

Nizhoni Ranch Gallery. This is an

the only one where the people

intimate, appointment-only gallery

live on their true native lands.

featuring rare and beautiful art

Surrounded

woven in the lands surrounding

mountains, this is the spiritual

and including Monument Valley in

and cultural home to the Diné,

Navajo Nation.

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It’s not only the largest

Navajo

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four

people

sacred

whose

ARIZONA

beginnings

are

told

through

his own. But when he was 19

legends. Living in harmony with

this lanky, soft-spoken cowboy

the land and nature, life here

traded his collection of 22 rifles

follows traditions… like that of

for

a grandmother teaching her

and never looked back.

granddaughter to weave sheep’s

than 45 years later, Getzwiller is

wool and following designs more

considered a premier expert in

than a hundred years old.

Navajo weavings, working with

some

Navajo

weavings… More

about 40 weavers creating oneof-a-kind textiles.

Now enter the cowboy, Steve Getzwiller, owner of Nizhoni Ranch Gallery.

He’s the real

Nizhoni, which means “beautiful”

deal, with his cowboy heritage

in the Navajo language, is the

stretching back generations to

perfect name for this hilltop

the territorial days of Arizona

gallery which is also home for

and New Mexico and the early

Steve and his wife Gail.

days of Texas. He’s the son of

across the tile patio and through

a champion team roper, and

the heavy oak door, and you’re

even did some rodeo roping of

stepping into another world, one 252

Walk

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filled with beauty and tranquility.

are hesitant about coming out

“They’re

by appointment, because they

blown

away,”

says

feel like it’s a commitment, but

Steve Getzwiller, when asked

I don’t put anybody under any

what his clients sense during their appointment-only visit. “It

pressure,” says Getzwiller.

far exceeds their expectations,

invariably. They see the material

Still…be prepared to learn…and

online, but once they get here

to be dazzled as he casually

and see it in person, it’s a whole other thing.

unfurls a Navajo blanket or

The setting is

rug with an incredibly complex

not like anything they’ve been

design.

exposed to before.”

some of the intricacies of how weavers

for

months

complete one piece. You’ll not

with its magnificent mesquite

only learn the story behind the

wood floor, this 20-by-40-foot

work, but what to look for when

room is filled with Arts and furnishings

work

or sometimes even years to

Stepping into the gallery itself,

Crafts-era

He’ll share with you

you start looking on your own.

which

complement the dozens and dozens of spectacular Navajo

Some of the weavers Getzwiller

weavings on the walls, draped

works with he has known for

across furniture or stored in glass-front

cases.

most of their lives. Because he

Historic

also often worked with their

Native American basketry is also prominently

displayed,

mothers

along

and

grandmothers,

he chuckles and says some he

with paintings by southwestern

worked with before they were

artists and classic Edward S.

born.

Curtis orotones.

His goal had always

been to raise Navajo weaving “to the next level” as he calls it, by guiding some back to truly

“There are some people who 254

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256

traditional designs, some with

how, as a mathematician she

more open space and yet others

planned it out first on graph

very complicated. He also was

paper. Another master weaver

instrumental in bringing back

gets her inspiration from abstract

the Churro sheep, a particular

paintings by a contemporary

species which has low lanolin

American artist.

content and was nearly wiped out by federal government range management decades ago. “There’s

shortcutting

the

process,” he says as he describes

It’s as if time stops during your visit to Nizhoni.

The peaceful

quiet may be punctuated by the rapid chirps of a cactus wren,

how it’s all done by hand. “The

or the sigh of the wind through

dyes in my Churro collection

nearby cedars.

come from Switzerland, and

leave with a weaving, a piece

they’re the best available.

of jewellery or other Native

have a palette that no one else

American art, you still leave

has in the weaving business.”

this place changed, with a new appreciation

He’ll

explain

what

different

for

Whether you

what

time,

patience and skill can create.

patterns and symbols mean, and why the weaver chose to

“Visitors take with them an

incorporate that.

You’ll learn

experience they truly enjoyed,”

how one weaver spent more

says Getzwiller. And what better

than two years on an extremely

way to spend some time than

complex

in this timeless corner of the

piece

based

ceremonial sandpainting, and

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Southwest?

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cereals cacti

caramics足

leather goods

Arizona Souvenirs HF

The tips of the Dearsouvenir crew

jewellery

upcycling

PC PHOTOS: Pop Cycle (PC) HF Coors (HF) Birdsnest Baking (BB) Four Winds West (FW)

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UPCYCLING To those of you who love nature, we recommend the shop “Pop-Cycle”. You can stock up on upcycled clothes and decoration in playful designs.

Upcycled clothes and decoration suitable for hand luggage here: popcycle

CERAMICS If you like colourful tableware, you will find your souvenir at H.F. Coors in Tucson! One

Colourful ceramics from Tucson hfcoors

special thing is that tourists can watch the production and learn the story behind the idea of H.F. Coors. CACTI A small cactus is a popular souvenir from Arizona – one of the heartlands of cactuses.

Cacti for your interior moonvalleynurseries

You find a large choice at Moon Valley Nurseries on various farms in Arizona. CRUNCHY CEREALS At „Bird’s Nest“, you can stock up on organic crunchy cereals – one of the favorite breakfast meals of the Americans.

Handmade cereals by birdsnestbaking.com

LEATHER GOODS What about a new bag, a new belt or a wallet? Joel Rubiner of Four Winds West manufactures all his products by himself in Tucson. He decorates some of them with turquoises, bone pieces and horn which puts the finishing touches to them. DEARSOUVENIR

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fourwindswest leather goods made in Tucson!

ARIZONA

F U N FA C T

Tucson is the birthplace of our favourite Lady from the bottle! Actress Barbara Eden of the tv show „I Dream of Jeannie“ was born here in 1931.

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HÁGOÓNEE‘ (GOOD-BYE IN NAVAJO)

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CONTINENT : AFRICA

SOUTH AFRICA‘S WEST COAST

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- Q U I C K FA C T S -

SOUTH ARFICA

Strictly speaking, Cape Town, the capital of the Western Cape, isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;t in the region defined as West Coast but the city, home to more than three million South Africans, is worth a visit. Situated on the Table Bay shores of the Atlantic Ocean, it enjoys stable and warm temperatures. You can feel the air of history throughout the city, be it that of colonial times or from its Apartheid past. Cape Town is where beach holiday, history and culture intersect.

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Photos: Mister & Misses Do

CAPE TOWN

Are: 1,219,912 km2 Population: 54,002,000 Currency: Rand Seat of government: Pretoria Highest elevation: Mafadi (3450 m)

KOEKSISTER

A sweet South African delicacy, its Boer roots are visible in both name and recipe. Koeksister dough is tied into braids and fried before being infused with syrup. Warning: It’s VERY sweet!

LANGA

This feature focuses on the West Coast of South Africa; for this purpose, we’re going to treat Cape Town as part of this region.

Langa is the oldest township in South Africa; its name translates as “sun.“ Even before the introduction of Apartheid, this area was planned as a borough for “blacks.“ Langa is the township closest to the city centre and home to around 200,000 people.

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SHIPWRECKS More than 2,000 shipwrecks line the coast of South Africa, most of which have been on the ocean floor for more than 500 years. “False Bay” at Cape Point, which is renowned for its monster waves, is a hot spot to discover ships that weren’t lucky enough to reach shore.

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F U N FA C T S South Africa is the second-largest fruit producer in the world. Its special climate Südafrika ist affords der thezweitgrößte country a vast bounty Produzent vonSouth of diverse fruits. Früchten weltweit. Africa takes first place when it comes to floral wealth and is home to both the smallest (>10mm) and largest Baobab succulents.

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T H E

C O N T R I B U T O R S

Our boarding crew TOUR GUIDE

WEST COAST

TRAVEL MANUEL

Lauren Manuel McShane is together with her husband, Vaughan, the founder of The Travel Manuel, an award-winning adventure travel blog. Their blog is one of South Africa’s top travel blogs and winner of “The Best Travel Blog in Africa” in 2015. They’ve visited six continents, have lived in five different countries, and showcase their travel tips and tales through engaging articles, photography, videos and social media.

travelmanuel.com

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P A S S E N G E R

WEST COAST G E R S N E S S A P

INKA CHALL

AST O C T S E W

My name is Inka, I love discovering new things through writing and photography. My blog posts on my blog, blickgewinkelt, are not as much about God, but youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get a lot of posts about adventures and travelling. I always say the secret topic of my blog is a guide about how to survive the hippie chaos we live in today. My camera, Emma, helps me tell the stories I encounter all around the world.

MISTER & MISSES DO Hannes Thun and Farina Deutschmann are the couple behind Mister & Misses Do Wedding Photography. The Berlin-based photographers share their love and passion for photography, weddings and storytelling. They spend most of the year travelling around the world in search of heartwarming stories.

blickgewinkelt.de misterandmissesdo.com _hannesthun FarinaDeutschmann

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#TGIF TRIP ALONG THE WEST COAST

PHOTOS: Mister & Misses Do (MMD) Travel Manuel (TM)

Pho

Friday: Elands Bay

to: A llan Wat t un ter C C BY -NC 2.0

The weekendtrip

Saturday: Cape Columbine

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never tire of is the West Coast. It’s untamed beauty and wild ocean is unlike any other part of South Africa. Here are my tips on what to do during a weekend along South Africa’s West Coast.

m z.co map

Sunday: West Coast National Park

MMD

South Africa is one of those countries with abounding beauty at every turn. Every few kilometres you drive will reveal a different landscape more breathtaking than the next. One strip along the coastline that I‘ll

Locations on the map

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MMD

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MMD

FRIDAY – DAY 1

ELANDS BAY Start with the furthest destination

them is illegal. If you don’t know

from Cape Town and make your

how, ask a local how to prepare

way down South for the duration

the crayfish on the braai and

of the week. Elands Bay is a tiny,

savour succulent mouthfuls with

relaxed little town with a great

garlic, lemon and mayonnaise.

beach and a few options for

Even though we didn’t stay at the

accommodation. My husband

backpackers here, we found a

and I camped at the dusty

great place to braai our crayfish

campsite right on the beach and withstood gusty wind and mini sandstorms just to

enjoy

surfing

called Pili Pili

. They specialise

in adventure activities and take people

surfing,

kitesurfing,

those

paragliding and more. Even if

waves and the crayfish.

adventure is not your thing, go

Locals will sell you fresh

and hang out there – you’ll meet

crayfish, but be careful

fellow travellers, play a few

not to purchase them

games of cards, and learn a little

too small as catching

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more about the region.

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SATURDAY – DAY 2

THE BEACH CAMP Get to the Beach Camp early in

day and park their red, blue, black

time for a dip. The absolute best

and white boats on the sand.

thing about this place is the lack

All the houses are whitewashed

of electricity (other than the gas-

and provide the perfect seaside

heated showers), A-Frame tents right on the beach, and myriad of stars to be seen each night. On a hot day, we walked straight out from our tent in the morning and right into the sea. By day we explored the

boulders,

walked

around the reserve, and checked out the town of Paternoster. Paternoster destination that

is in

attracts

vacationers.

a itself many

Visitors

can walk along the long beach where fisherman bring in their catch of the

stay if you are not keen on camping. Every few steps you take will yield a restaurant to buy scrumptious fish and chips. And if you’re brave, try the local favourite of bokkoms – tiny, salty fish dried out in the sun. This beach is ideal for swimming and even better for long walks with your loved one or dog in tow. Evenings beside the fire were magical. Guests chatted by the bar, we made our food on the fire to the sound of someone drumming, crackled

and

into

the

fire

night,

gazed upon the blanket of stars exploding across the sky.

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SUNDAY – DAY 3

WEST COAST NATIONAL PARK Set out early for the West Coast

Footprints discovered in 1995

. There is so much

at Kraalbaai are unmistakable

to do with friends and family

human footfalls in rock and are

here that you will find it tough to

said to have belonged to a young

National Park

narrow it down. Enjoy the bright blooms that pop in springtime or catch a glimpse of the wildlife that wanders throughout the park all through the year. I particularly

love

summer

Kraalbaai, a magical bay within the park where you can perch on powdery white sand and dive into the fresh water. There are activities for everyone within the park – cycle along one of their biking routes, kayak or kite board in the lagoon, picnic or braai at the designated facilities within

woman who lived 117,000 years ago, and have therefore been dubbed ‘Eve’s footprints’. The original prints can be found at the Iziko Museums‘ South African National Museum in Cape Town, but the replica remains at the Geelbek Information Centre inside West Coast National Park. If hiking is your thing, try Eve‘s Trail

, which is a two-and-a-half

day, fully portered and catered hike through the park that traces the footsteps of Eve. The 30-km

the park, go whale watching

wilderness hike consists of three

between August and September,

legs connected through a series

go for a walk or hike, or view

of West Coast-style meals and

game from your car.

transfers.

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TEXT & PHOTOS: Inka Chall, blickgewinkelt.de

LOCAL MAKER

South Africa

A JOURNEY WITH A SPECIAL TOUCH

While checking out vineyards isn’t necessarily mandatory during a trip to South Africa’s Western Cape, it is at the very least recommended, for this important aspect of the country’s culture is not to be missed.

Stellenbosch The

area

surrounding

said, of course, that the reality

famous

between black and white cannot

Stellenbosch

its

which

wineries,

impression

masked.

Apartheid

tore

the country apart, and it still

catered almost exclusively to

suffers from the consequences

the wealthy golfer set. This

to this day. Since the wineries

case:

around Stellenbosch comprise

indulging in wine and culinary

a considerable part of the local

delights is a tradition here and

economy,

has nothing to do with ritz and

voluntarily

glam. It’s very much possible to

betterment of populations that

learn about both colonial and

have long been discriminated

traditional South African culture

against – just another reason to

on a minimal budget. It must be

pay a visit.

not

first

believe

definitely

had

for

the

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many work

employers for

the

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1. The wine estate and a picnic in the lovely garden. 2. Marinated pumpkin made with vinegar The

selection

wineries

it appears, have also stopped by

massive, and you can choose

here on a whim.

to explore them as part of an

The best souvenirs from the

organised tour or on your own.

Western Cape call for a sweet

The smaller ones are able to offer

tooth â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cakes and other baked

tourists a lot of spontaneous

goods are popular across South

perks.

Africa and perfected in the area surrounding Cape Town. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

Delheim Wine Estate

be surprised, then, when sweets

Delheim Wine Estate, a very

are

traditional business, has a great

offered

complement

your wine. A winetasting with

park to set up a picnic. Various

cupcakes was just one of the

homemade

are

many culinary highlights of my

prepared to complement the

trip. Other souvenirs can be

wine, including an outstanding

found in abundance as well;

house-baked

many

specialties

bread

and

wineries

boast

small

marinated pumpkin. The dining

shops where tourists can pick

table in the courtyard is equally

up unique finds, from knick-

cozy and familiar; most guests,

knacks to handmade treasures, 278

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SOUTH AFRICA

wine accessories, jewellery and

more suitable souvenirs. The

art. The arts scene in South Africa

different

is incredibly diverse, and many

Africa have given rise to great

handcrafted pieces stem from

artistic diversity and interesting

do-it-yourself necessity. All across

mixtures. Bright colours mirror

South Africa you can find very

South African traditions and are

nice small baskets woven from

paired with colonial style, wood,

old telephone wiring. Though

and a lot of white with clear

a little too big for my suitcase, I

forms, which is reminiscent of

was especially fond of guitars

Scandinavian design. This is just

constructed out of oil canisters

one of many special fusions in

and – something to behold in

South Africa.

an instrument museum – entire

cultures

South

also find jewellery made of natural

Wine estate Mont Rochelle

materials in abundance, though

You’ll especially notice this at the

one can’t be certain whether

Mont Rochelle estate, a larger

they are made in South Africa

enterprise that’s a little more

or cheap imports from other

exclusive with fantastic views of

African countries. Vases from

the mountains and breathtaking

paper waste or beautiful pottery

interior. Its shop contains some

from the area are somewhat

outstanding crafts from the region.

plants, including roots. You can

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colourful ceramic

Inkaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s South African souvenirs

natural jewellery

From oil can guitars to natural jewellery

wirebaskets waste paper bawls oil can guitars

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“South Africa’s Mont Rochelle Vineyard. I was blown away by literally everything here: the old colonial houses, the fresh interior, the creativity, the way everything is arranged like in Cape Town, the hospitality of the people.”

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The „Kleine Zalze“ My third winery recommendation is the „Kleine Zalze,“ which was founded by a German over 300 years ago and is today famous for its selection of award-winning wines. It is wonderfully situated in close proximity to a golf course and is amazingly affordable – definitely worth an overnight PHOTO: virginlimitededition.com

stay.

HOT TIP: Just over an hour away from Stellenbosch will land you in the dreamy West Coast National Park, which awaits with sand dunes, pearly beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters. A secret tip: the shop of !Khwa ttu, a project that supports local residents. Nowhere in South Africa have I seen such stunning fabrics, which you can find more about here:

www.khwattu.org

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F U N FA C T

South Africa is the only country where two Nobel Prize winners come from the same street! Both Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu lived in houses on the same street in Soweto.

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PHOTOS: Jamie (JA)

CC BY 2.0

African Tourism (AT) CC BY 2.0 Wonderlande (WL)

CC BY 2.0

wood carvings ceramics

South African souvenirs Tips from our Dearsouvenir crew

musical instruments beaded jewellery woven baskets AT

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WOOD CARVINGS There is a whole host of different styles of wood carvings to be found in South Africa – small ones, large ones, figurines, masks and any kind of decorative objects you can imagine. Since they are just as popular a living

The TIMBER VILLAGE team from Knysna do wood carvings and furniture since 1985.

room accessory here as they are in South Africa, they make an excellent souvenir. CERAMICS Ceramics have been an important part of South African art and culture since 7000 BC. Colourful crockery is still very popular today with both natives and tourists. As a souvenir it is a little bit on the tricky side because pottery breaks much more easily than a wood carving. But if you like ceramic art, make sure to stop by Zulu-lulu Art House in Piggly Wiggly Country Village in Midlands Meader. MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS Music is an integral part of any party or ritual celebrated in South Africa. From tribal music to inner city parties, music and South Africa are indivisible. Thanks to its unique shape, an African musical instrument also makes a decorative souvenir; or you could even try mastering the traditional sounds yourself. A selection of instruments can be found at “The African Music Store“ in Cape Town.

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You can buy ceramics at Zulu-lulu Art House online

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WOVEN BASKETS Woven African baskets are practical, beautiful to look at, and a lovely memento of your time spent in Africa. A variety of materials can be used for weaving, from weeds to Woven baskets from Ilala Weavers in Hhluhluwe, Cape Town.

vines, to leaves, to raffia and more. Such a basket is not just an ordinary souvenir – it’s also an ecologically sustainable one. So off you go to “Ilala Weavers“ on Ngweni Road in Hluhluwe! BEADED JEWELLERY African beads have a long and rich history. The natives used to adorn their terracotta

One of many manufacturers of beaded jewellery is the small team of Africa Smiles from Waterfall in KwaZulu Natal

sculptures

with

beads,

which

they

then began wearing them themselves. And now everybody does. African beaded jewellery is colourful and often flamboyant but always makes a lovely accessory and a perfect souvenir by which to remember your weekend trip in the working weeks after. OSTRICH EGG LAMPS The South African tradition of ostrich egg

Buy at A voova store in Johannesburg or Cape Town.

art is many centuries old and an important part of the country’s culture. Fragments of some embroidered ostrich eggs found are estimated to be more than 60,000 years old.

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O F

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I S S U E

Snail mask

TEXT: Nina Fรถrster ILLUSTRATION: Helena Melikov

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skin care products with snail extract

royal-wellness-shop.de ORDER

Luxurious, exotic Korean beauty products are a great souvenir for anyone, especially due to their incredibly variety. A real curiosity we found during our research were Korean products with snail extract. You heard right: these products contain extracts from the slimey invertebrates. Chilean dermatologist Fernando Bascunan discovered in the 1980s that

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small scratches and wounds from his co-workers at the snail farm healed quicker and without scars and the skin felt softer than before. South Korean products have used this knowledge for a long time, benefitting from the ingredientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; healing properties and regenerating elements. Cleansing gels, BB-creams or nurturing masks: we think this beauty product truly deserves to be called a curiosity.

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Text: Zoe Blechschmitt

We have compiled a list of activities for you which are just perfect for the weekend. And it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even matter where you are spending it: whether inside or out, upside or down, noisy or soft â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there is something for everyone and every kind of weekend here.

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ENTERTAINMENT Alright, a weekend trip to the cinema is not exactly a new and creative idea but we’re not talking about your average silver screen down the street. More and more cinemas are putting a premium on a luxurious interior to make your cinematic experience unforgettable like the Paragon Cineplex at the Siam Center in Bangkok. There are waiters to ensure your wellbeing as far as food and drinks are concerned and sofas and recliners to take care of the rest. The rest of the Siam Center is nothing to sneer at either. You could easily spend an entire weekend here. If a visit to the cinema has tickled your fancy for spending time in the dark why not follow it up with a round of black light miniature golf? This intriguing past time was created by – literally – giving the popular family entertainment classic a new coat of paint and many cities, like Cologne now invite you to hit a few balls in a psychedelic atmosphere. For more information: www.glowingrooms.com .

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ACTIVE AND OUTSIDE Since spending the entire weekend inside and in the dark isn’t the very best idea let’s go outside! How about paying a visit to the Flying Fox – a zip line course? You can find one of particularly breathtaking atmosphere at the Zittertal Arena in Austria’s Tyrolian Mountains. The unique combination of fun and adrenaline makes you forget all about the stress of the week just gone. Another adrenaline-filled activity is canyoneering for example in or around the Allgäu region of Germany. Attractive offers can also be found in Lower Saxony,

Tyrol and around the Austrian city of Salzburg. But really any other place on the globe that sports beautiful canyons surrounding bodies of water will do nicely. Hiking has been a Sunday classic since childhood. Scotland adds a particularly interesting route to the menu albeit a not exactly family-proof one. The Malt links several of Whisky Trail Scotland‘s larger distilleries; a fact which is sure to put an extra little spring in your step with every section. Whisky isn’t your thing? Well then how about a nice glass of isn’t just wine? The Rheingau

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a particularly beautiful region of Germany, the grapes grown in this district are used to make wine renowned the world over for its high quality. So pick a hiking route that will lead you by some wineries and pop in for a glass or two along your way. While the shopping miles of the world’s metropoles are bursting with tourists on any given Saturday, the natives often use this day, especially if it’s a sunny one, to retreat to one of the many parks. And so the lawns are dotted with smaller and larger groups of people playing, laughing or making music. But even if you’re not part of a group you’re unlikely to get bored because there are just so many things to see and explore. Many parks have boats for hire like the arguably most famous one in the world: Central Park in New York . Hamburg also is best explored from a canoe on the Alster River. If you feel you need a change of perspective, a may be just the ticket. Available helicopter tour in many metropoles like New York they will afford you brand new views of the city. And if that’s still not special enough you can even take a zeppelin ride around Lake Konstanz. You don’t need a big budget to explore a city from above by the way, many cities have a mountain with great views or a TV tower you can climb.

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URBAN, CULTURE & PLEASURES Even with your feet firmly on the ground at all times there are new things waiting to be discovered around every corner. Make sure to check for alternative tours on offer in your city. Unseen Tours of London are guided by formerly homeless people and will show your parts of the city which are really only worth exploring with someone who holds exceptional insider knowledge by your side. Would you like to add your own graffiti to the wealth of art in Berlin? Graffiti tours will not only take you to some of the most special graffiti in the city they also include a workshop in which you can unleash your own spraying talents.

Weekly markets are a great way to get to know local producers from a certain region and get your hands on some nice souvenirs along the way. You can usually find a city’s market dates on its official website. Chicago’s Green City offers locale Market p r o d u c e ,

Those of you who would rather leave the artistic outpour to other people still have a wealth of museums to choose from. The smaller and more specialised collections often aren’t as crowded at the weekend as the big name museums. Check out the Sammlung Hoffmann (Hoffmann collection) in Berlin which is only open on Saturdays or take a look behind the scenes of the circus at (circus museum) the Cirkus Museet outside Copenhagen.

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culinary delicacies and also entertaining workshops on all kinds of topics related to gardening. When planning a trip to a street food market it’s a good idea to keep an eye on the city’s events calendar. Thanks to the recent street food boom there is at least one market focusing on trend foods to be found in every major city. One great example is the Eat Street in Barcelona. All through the warmer months (which in Barcelona start in March) every couple of weeks you can spend an entire Saturday (from midday to 11pm) there. The people of Barcelona know how to party which is why the merriment

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continues on Sundays with the Brunch Elektronik . Until June this event brings together many acts from the electronic scene twice a month; it’s great fun for all the family with extra entertainment provided for the very youngest members. If your ideal weekend entails moving as little as possible and enjoying peace and tranquillity, you will probably be best off retreating to the spa of your choice. If you ever visit Asia make sure to check out several of the local massage and cosmetics treatments - all in the name of cultural exchange, of course.

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TRADITIONAL MENUS

COOK YOUR

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Currys from Thailand, Ćevapčići from Croatia, Fajitas from Mexico, Bratwurst from Germany – food is almost always a cliché representation of every country. Hardly anyone gushes about the excellence of British food and everyone thinks Germans eat nothing but Pretzels, Bratwurst and Schnitzel. On the positive side of things, this also means that every mouthful is loaded with pure culture, especially when you’re trying to escape everyday life. My favourites at home and in restaurants are Indian, Greek and Japanese dishes. If you’re not in the mood to travel far but still want exotic flavours to tickle your tastebuds, check out our traditional menus in the next couple of Dearsouvenirissues. This time, we’re starting off with Africa and South Korea with Ozoz from Kitchen Butterfly and missboulette!

Introduction: Nina Förster

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O U R

C O N T R I B U T R

The boarding crew Across Nigeria, these perfect weekend recipes aren’t mine alone. For many, Saturday mornings and Akara, bean fritters go very well together; Sunday Rice is ‘Jollof Rice’ and dinner before the jolt of Monday morning? Easy to make fried plantains, Dodo.

COOK

NIGERIA

OZOZ SOKOH Ozoz Sokoh is an Exploration geologist, food writer and photographer. She is passionate about experimenting with and sharing Nigerian cuisine in ‘The New Nigerian Kitchen‘, a phrase she coined to reflect the changing focus of Nigerian cuisine from eating for sustenance to celebration. She makes her home in Lagos, Nigeria.

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FEEDS 4 – 6 PERSONS

Made from (skinned) black-eyed beans, Akara resemble Middle Eastern falafel. It is often one half of a ‘bread’ or corn pap crew. I love to make an Akara Burger – fritters on hand sliced soft white bread, uncorrupted by the sharp blades of a machine. If you can’t find black-eyed beans, you can substitute the same amount of yellow split lentils or a scant measure of lentil (gram) flour.

INGREDIENTS

1 cup black-eyed beans 1 small onion, peeled & roughly chopped

Download the full recipe

1/2 cup water (or more)

HERE

Chopped chili pepper, to taste Scant ½ teaspoon salt, to taste Vegetable oil to deep fry Bread to serve

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The National dish of Nigeria and most of West Africa, Jollof rice is a dish of spiced, red rice popular as everyday food and also in celebration â&#x20AC;&#x201C; weddings, birthdays, Christmas. Download the full recipe HERE

INGREDIENTS

500g long grain rice (scant 3 cups) 750ml water 2 - 3 cups of Tomato mixture (200g tomatoes, 3medium onions, chillies, to taste) Cooking oil Garlic & Ginger paste (puree of equal amounts fresh ginger and garlic. Also available to buy in Indian/Asian stores) Curry Powder (Caribbean-style)

There are more than 40,000 rice varieties. DEARSOUVENIR

Dried Thyme Maggi stock cubes Tomato paste/puree Salt, pepper to taste

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DINNER OF DODO

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Dodo, fried plantains as we call it in Nigeria forms a quick and simple meal, Often, an accompaniment to rice, or perfect partner with eggs. Download the full recipe HERE

INGREDIENTS

1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2 yellow, ripe plantains (should be soft to the touch) Salt, to taste Vegetable oil for frying

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;My favourite souvenir is a Turkish egg cup, bought at a street market in Leiden, The Netherlands. I collect egg cups and this one came in my favorite colour - blue

with ethnic patterns, which is a reminder of how beautiful traditional crafts still are even in a world of contemporary design.â&#x20AC;?

My dearsouvenir by Ozoz Sokoh

Turkish egg cup

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WITH MSBOULETTE

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INGREDIENTS FOR A 1.25 LITRE CONTAINER

FOR THE SPICE PASTE

½ Onion, medium sized ½ Apple, small 3-4 cloves of garlic 3 slices of ginger

INGREDIENTS

50 g boiled rice from the day before (re-boiled in 50ml water and cooled down) ½ tbsp cane sugar

1 kg Chinese cabbage 100 g coarse sea salt 1 litre water 300 g white radish 2 spring onions, finely sliced 1 small carrot, finely julienned

The full recipe HERE .

3 tbsp Gochugaru (Korean chili powder) 3 tsp Korean fermented baby shrimp (alternatively: 2 tbsp fish sauce) Sea salt to taste

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INGREDIENTS

2 tbsp spring onions, finely chopped 2 tbsp onions, finely chopped 2 tsp garlic, finely ground 1 tbsp cane sugar

BIBIM GUKSU TOPPINGS

2 tbsp soy sauce

8-10 perilla leaves (cut into strips)

3 tbsp pear or pineapple juice

Â˝ carrot, julienne

2 tbsp of ripe, peeled and finely chopped fruit (peach, apricot, pear or apple depending on the season)

2 field cucumbers, julienne

1 tbsp apple vinegar 2 tbsp Gochujang (Korean chilli paste) 2 tbsp Gochugaru (Korean chilli powder)

Lettuce, cut into strips Pointed cabbage, cut into fine strips Sesame to sprinkle on top Some drops of dark sesame oil

Full recipe HERE

NOODLES

250-300 g thin wheat noodles (somen) or Asian buckwheat noodles (soba)

SERVES 4 PERSONS

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DINNER

n a i r a t e g e v y s a E p a b m i b i B

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INGREDIENTS

350 g Short grain rice/Sushi rice 10-12 Shiitake mushrooms, dried or fresh Â˝ cucumber Korean radish or kohlrabi salad (see recipe below) 300 g fresh mung or soy bean sprouts 2 onions, large 1 courgette (when in season, alternatively use spinach leaves) 2 carrots, medium

BIBIM SAUCE

4 eggs

5 generously heaped tsp Gochujang

1 small clove of garlic

40 ml apple juice

Oil for frying

2-3 tsp cane sugar

Dark sesame oil to taste

3 tsp sesame oil

Sesame seeds, toasted

3 tsp sesame seeds, toasted

Salt and pepper to taste

SERVES 4 PERSONS

Full recipe HERE

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local handmade

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green fairtrade

TEXT: Nina Förster

upcycling

SOUVENIRS

go green

What unites jade, old newspapers

it even better that natives all

and stranded flipflops? In our

over the world have become part

case it’s the fact that they are all

of the Go Green campaign to

souvenirs made from recycled

produce sustainable souvenirs.

materials.

Colourful sculptures made from

Sustainably produced souvenirs

old flipflops, spoons made out of

are on the rise, even though most of them are made from materials which are far from being ‘good’ for the environment. Trashed

cities

drowning

copious amounts of plastic and garbage have become part of

undetonated bombs, jewellery out of aluminium and baskets made from old copper wires are only a few of the wonderful creations. Dearsouvenir presents Global Mamas and Trashy Bags.

our everyday lives, which makes

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C O N T R I B U T R

The boarding crew IDE TOUR GU

GHANA

MARTIN PIECK Martin travels a lot to tell stories as a journalist. Sometimes you would think he became a journalist just to travel so much. Crazily enough, this is true. In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world, during the refugee crisis and when discussions are full of prejudices it is important for journalists like him to understand people in other situations and to share this knowledge with the people in his home country- to generate understanding. And some foreighn stories are good sources of entertaintment. one thing is for sure- he canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t complain about the variety of unusual souvenirs. martinpieck.com

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IS IT A SOUVENIR OR CAN IT BE THROWN OUT? TEXT: Martin Pieck PHOTOS: Global Mamas One

problem

Trashy Bags

solved,

the small bar see how the

another one produced.

sinking sun disappears

Clean

drinking

bags

behind the roofs of the

that

should

save

straw huts and makes

Ghanaian people from

room for the black-blue

diseases

night, they could feel as

if they were in paradise –

pollution levels in the

at least until their naked

country.

Committed

feet that they put into

environmentalists have

the sand to cool them

taken in upon themselves

down get caught in cold

to make it a necessity to

and

process the garbage – for

Wherever

Ghana and the tourists.

garbage. You can accept

that – or use the masses

drastic

result

increases

win-win

situation.

crackling you

plastic. look:

of garbage and turn it It could be so idyllic on

into something that locals

the

and tourists like to bring

beaches

Accra.

When the few tourists in

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home

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for

their

loved

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ones: green souvenirs.

and

Ghana suffers from a plague of

flooded with colorful

small plastic bags that once were praised as saviors. In a country in which fresh and running water is a luxury good and reserved

the

garbage. room

for

sea

are

There

tourists

no who

could have a good time on the beach and sunbathe white

water rots in big tanks and

skin. Tourism is a niche market.

spreads cholera, small plastic

Nature per se is not unimportant

bags were supposed to bring

for Ghanaian people. There just

salvation. For a few Pesewas (4

is no waste system in place,

pesewas is the equivalent to 1

and as of yet there are few

cent in europe), you can get

alternatives to the plastic bags of

these drinking bags on every

water - healthy people= spoiled

corner, in the city and the

environment. before, water was

most outlying villages. How

sold communally in cups, but

convenient. The Ghanaian

this method was a sure way to

people bite off one corner

spread contagious diseases. In

of the bag, drink, sip the

former times, water was sold

water to the last drop â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

in and drunk from community

and let the bag drop on the ground. There is no other

waste

system.

In some districts of the

capital,

people

walk over carpets of plastic; the beaches

cups

Ghana;

this

habit

virtually cried out for contagious diseases. For financial reasons, plastic bottles are not an option; they simply are too expensive. So the government introduced bags without thinking of the

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PHOTO: STIG NYGAARD | CC BY 2.0

„They use masses of garbage and turn it into something that locals and tourists like to bring with them: green souvenirs.“

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consequences the absence of

decorative items, toiletries â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

a waste system would have on

each one on them is already an

the environment.

interesting souvenir.

But the plastic on the streets

Every

of Ghana is not just garbage.

contains ecological principles,

For some people it is a valuable

and if you have a closer look,

resource.

the

For

the

Global

step

handmade

the

process

shea

butter

looks familiar â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or rather the

small and insignificant building

packaging. The Global Mamas

on a side street of the dirty

found a way to use the remains

main road, you can find the

association that was founded

canyons. With them, the butter

with a vision 13 years ago. The

that is painstakingly obtained

vision of women who work for

from the nuts of the shea tree

women. Equal rights and fair

for hundreds of years now

trade determine the activities of

is protected from dirt. Also,

the 600 women from different

they serve as free and stylish

social classes. Many of them

packaging: the ideal souvenir

are unmarried and childless,

that

Mamas,

for

example.

a combination that normally leaves little chance for a decent life in Ghana. In seven

communities,

they produce all sorts of

things:

batik

clothes, jewellery,

plastic

tells

from

the

exciting

urban

and

authentic story. Those who want to take a step further go to Trashy Bags. They not only do they produce the product from garbage â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the whole product is recycled. In Accra, the company employs 60

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„The ideal souvenir that tells an exciting and authentic story by itself.“

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full-time employees who collect

“Maybe you can’t see it

the garbage, wash it and process it

yet but these bags can

to a high standard. Wallets, purses,

create doctors one day”,

laptop cases are the result of this

said the Deputy Minister of

clean and sourced garbage.

Environment, Benes Hellu. An

The idea is a success – and helps

optimistic

in multiple ways. Only recently, a collaboration with the fertiliser producer Yara caught attention. Yara is committed to ecological production

and

provides

least

thought the

contribute to the social justice in a country that so

could

packaging

idyllic.

produce

10.000 school bags. They are delivered to more than 40 elementary

schools

the countryside, the

Global Mamas

regions where a school bag is a

Trashy Bags

luxury good.

330

but

souvenirs

Trashy Bags with enough used plastic

–

”The magic lamp from Turkey is my favourite souvenir since my girlfriend gave it to me as a gift when she introduced me to magical Istanbul. But since I only can be there every now and then, I now have three travelling wishes – for bad times.”

My dearsouvenir by Martin Pieck

Turkish magic lamp

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OPEN YOUR BAG, PLEASE!

332

Billie Ray Martin

Hambug born Billie Ray Martin („The Queen of Electronic Soul“) created a 90s world hit with her song „Your Loving Arms“. Today, the successful singer and songwriter still travels internationally and just debuted her new album THE SOUL TAPES. www.billieraymartin.com

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We met Billie Ray Martin at Tegel Airport in Berlin ...

Where have you just come from? I have just arrived from Milan.

Did you buy a souvenir? I bought a pair of silver shoes with a chunky heel, they remind me of 60â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Go-Go-Boots. Exactly what I needed for my new live show.

Where did you find them? I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t remember the name of the shop but it was on Corso di Porta Ticinese. A great street with lots of small boutiques and shoe shops, bars and trattorias. I like how young and dynamic this part of the town is, there are lots of ateliers with little showrooms.

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How much were the shoes? 130 Euro

What do they mean to you? I feel like I’m having a ‚back to the roots’ moment, like my Electribe 101 phase back in the day. My new album is strongly influenced by 60s and 70s soul so it fits!

Who is this souvenir for? Just a little treat for myself this time

Where are you going to wear the shoes? On every stage that takes me!

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When in Venice … AFTERLIFE OF A SOUVENIR with Finnish photographer, artist and blogger Kreetta Järvenpää

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In our „Return“ section, the Dearsouvenir team searches for the best ideas for the time after you‘ve been travelling! Where do you store your souvenirs? What happened to them? Kreetta from blog „gretchen gretchen“ starts with the story about her blog header.

While talking about travel souvenirs I guess everyone can relate to the fact that it’s not easy to find a really good one. Usually you don’t want to buy the ordinary and typical stuff like a small statue of the Eiffel tower from Paris. That is way to boring. Most of you want something that reminds you of your travel adventures when you’re back at home. Something to be hung on the wall or to be placed on your dining table. Something that will remind you of the happy moments abroad. I really did find a souvenir like that during my holiday in DEARSOUVENIR

Venice! On a sunny winter day my husband and I found a tiny antique shop while strolling through Santa Croce. I am crazy about vintage stuff and antiques, so I was really happy that we past by. Of course we needed to go in and after a while of browsing through the things I found a small rusted metal box. Curious about its content I opened it and found several letters made of cardboard. They reminded me a lot of the game ‘Scrabble’ but they had been written in a truly beautiful way. I knew they were made with love. They were adorable and I started 337

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to wonder how old they are and who had made and played with them...touching their matt surface I suddenly got an idea, which could solve the problems I dealed with during redesigning my blog appearance. Standing in Venice I thought about using the letters for my new blog’s header. To write ‘gretchen gretchen’ I would combine those letters with my own handwriting. Certainly, I bought the letters to create ‘Gretchen’ and took the letter K, too. For all of you who are interested in the box – I left it there! If you ever visit that shop, you may find it. Nowadays my blog’s header, my perfect souvenir, reminds me of magical Venice.

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KREETTA‘S 10 TIPPS FOR

Venice

Go when there is not as much tourist attention on Venice. Take January for example, when the city is almost empty and you can enjoy Venice‘s winter. Take good shoes, a warm coat, woolly hat and gloves with you if you go in January. You can walk everywhere and there is lots to see. You will need a map!

The highest tide happens during full or new moon. It can happen that Piazza San Marco is flooded in January, thus rubber boots might be needed.

Listical pinnen

The best „torrone Tenero“ (traditional sweet made of honey, sugar and egg whites) can be bought at Pasticceria BAR Targa di Rizzetto

. By the way:

this is the perfect choice for a gluten and dairy free diet.

I recommend the organic and gluten free grocery shop in Santa Croce

. Buy a bottle of organic

wine and some salty snacks. Have a small picnic somewhere next to sunny Grand Canal. DEARSOUVENIR

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Kreetta brought her own memorable souvenirs from Venice. You can find the little letter cards from her blog header at the top right, stacked upon the mason jar.

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KREETTAS 10 TIPS FOR

Venice

If you want to buy THE traditional souvenir from Venice, it would be a mask. Please buy a real one and not the fake that you can get in any tourist shop! You should visit Ca‘ del Sol Their

masks

and

hats

are

handmade,

showcasing the perfect skills of Venetian craftsmen.

Take a bus boat to see beautiful scenes from

See Santa Maria della Salute. It is a beautiful

Don‘t miss the beautiful view from Ponte

If you want to explore the culinary side of

the Grand Canal. Be sure to have your camera with you.

church inside and out!

dell‘Accademia.

Venice, don‘t miss the so-called bacari, the little wine bars with small plates.

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IMPRINT – The Shopping & Travel Magazine

www.dearsouvenir-mag.com ADRESS

Dearsouvenir GmbH c/o Carry-On Publishing GmbH Gustav-Meyer-Allee 25, 13355 Berlin

Chief Editors

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Design Helena Melikov, Theresa Neubauer, Christina Schäferkord Production Marie Darme, Nina Förster, Theresa Neubauer, Sandra Rothfeld, Maureen Schneider, Nadine Steinmetz Text Nikolas Appels, Stephanie Chaistain, Inka Chall, Gy, Donna Hull, Julia Jerg, Kreetta Järvenpää, Juno Kim, Katharina Küllmer, Mia Marjanovic, Lauren McShane, Martin Pieck, Philipp Alexander Stelzel, Sophia Schillik, Susan Sorg, Ozoz Sokoh, Johanna Stöckl Proof Claire Cunningham, Stefanie Kießling , Alexander Kords, Aime McCracken, Christian Naethler Translation Ira Häussler, Alexander Kords, Christian Naethler, Tanja Timmer Photography Saskia Bauermeister, Matthias Heiderich, Adam Kiefer, Ashley Ludäscher, 344

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Dearsouvenir is a co-production of Wolfang Macht, Peter Bihr and Carry-On Publishing GmbH. Re-use of content is only allowed with written permission of the publisher. There is no liability for unsocialited manuscripts and photographs. No liability or guarantee for accuracy, currenca and completeness of the information provided is assumed. All information is provided without warranty. Management

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