Berlin Mexico City Veneto
3 Destinations . 170 Souvenirs . 70 Stories
EDI TO R IAL
Welcome! What is a souvenir? More often than not this
question will make friends and colleagues
merely shrug their shoulders and might at best conjure up images of bric-a-brac catching dust
on a shelf, the things you brought home from a trip that you now feel slightly embarrassed about, trumpery made in China.
We strongly felt that there was a need to make amends in this area, so: ta dah! We proudly
present: DEARSOUVENIR â€“ the first ever issue of our new magazine dedicated to your travel
mementos. This includes physical gifts to take home which hold precious memories as
much as those that come for free; like a chance meeting or the picture perfect moment.
Weâ€™re storytellers in the digital space. We bring you interactive features, tips and
interviews from the world behind your computer screen. You can meet us in person
on social media channels â€“ weâ€™re collaborating
with selected tour guides, travel experts
and bloggers from all over the globe. We
particularly admire those who tread carefully
on this planet and treat it with respect and ecological sustainability in mind. To us they represent an important change happening in
global tourism right now. And Dearsouvenir wants to be a part of it!
This icon will lead you
buy it online straight to the desired
Our Dearsouvenir trademark
item in the webshop.
We have scaled down the Dearsouvenir logo to a basic shape and use it as a recurring element throughout the magazine.
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10 THE HISTORY OF SOUVENIRS
WHAT'S THE STUFF YOU TRAVEL WITH
WHAT'S A DEARSOUVENIR?
LOVE LETTER TO VENETO
LOVE LETTER TO MEXICO CITY
MARKET TOUR IN MEXICO CITY FAMOUS FOR
110 DEARSOUVENIRS FROM MEXICO CITY
LOVE LETTER TO BERLIN
DEARSOUVENIRS FROM VENETO
ONE WEEKEND IN VENETO
266 CURIOSITIES DEARSOUVENIR
BERLIN IS OVER.
254 FOODTOUR IN BERLIN
OPEN YOUR BAG, PLEASE!
LOCAL MAKER 3
BACK FROM BERLIN
272 LAST,BUT NOT LEAST
TEAM Theresa Neubauer
pho to: V bag s an ineyar d, M d ca and use n the s um o t o acc f omp hold any reli Monast ing ery cap cs Cult tion ure list
photo cover: Andreas Praefcke, 2009
THE HISTORY SOUVENIRS Changing travel souvenirs throughout history
Pilgrim on the road to Santiago de Compostela
Pewter pilgrim badge of St Thomas Becket: 14th-15th century
Old souvenir teaspoons, Photo: Natalie Jeffcott Postcard, Paterson, New Jersey September 11, 1905 Pewter pilgrim badge of St George: 15th century
Snow globe,by Kamira
Rose of Jericho
Rose of Jericho, package
10. Pewter pilgrim badge of John Schorn: 15th century 11.
Postcard 1898, Hoffmann's Starch Factory
(french for memory/remembrance) are almost
as old as the concept of travelling itself. The first
items were little more than tokens from visited countries, remnants from long, arduous journeys which merchants and travellers brought back
home. Throughout time, souvenirs became more
important, the production of pilgrim badges flourished throughout the 14th and 15th century
and these little pewter badges, collected at sites
of Christian pilgrimage, represent the beginning of what now is a million-dollar industry.
The rose of Jericho was another Christian symbol loved by crusaders and pilgrims which, once
they had arrived back home, were passed on through generations. The hype around Christian
souvenirs continued, intelligent merchants soon realised that people were going to buy almost 10
everything and thus invented 3rd class relics. These were small pieces of paper or fabric which had touched objects which had once (allegedly) been touched by saints.
After said pilgrim badges, plants, papers and
several varieties of rocks that had been collected
from well-known sites, leisure tourism took over. Travelling was no longer regarded as hazardous and perilous as it was in its early days and a new
craze swept all over late 17th century Europe: souvenir spoons. During the Grand Tour through
Europe, undertaken by rich young men, the small objects could be collected at famous landmarks
or special events and reminded them of their
travels during everyday life. A little later snow globes showing the basilica Mariazell were patented by a Viennese who had seen them at DEARSOUVENIR
the world exhibtion in Paris in 1878 and hand-
painted plates as well as small bronze replicas of buildings (mostly from southern Europe) found their way into many suitcases and travelling
trunks. The souvenir was often a piece of local
craftsmanship, proudly displayed in homes all over the world. Postcards became a thing and
were proudly and frequently sent to loved ones back home.
Fast forward to today when most souvenirs are
mass-produced. No tourist can walk through a city like Paris without being offered a miniature Eiffel Tower or an I-heart-Paris shirt and most
people are yet to see a famous landmark like the Big Ben or the Statue of Liberty without
hundreds of merchants gathered around, trying to lighten sightseers' purses by offering
everything from bags to fridge magnets to
jumpers and hats. So far, you are forgiven to think of today's souvenir as something cheap and
decidedly unromantic. But to travellers, people
who truly enjoy the experience of discovering
a foreign country and its culture, souvenirs are so much more. They are memorabilia, items
carrying memories of adventures, connected
to people and places, destined to represent
the newfound love for a country in the hustle of our everyday lives. They carry the magic and fascination of travel within them, making sure
that stories are told and never forgotten after
arriving back home. Souvenirs may be small, like the embroidered keychain bought from the old lady on an abandoned beach in Bali or the
tiny shell found on a beach in Norway. They may
be big, like the carpet from Dubai that was so difficult to get through customs or the bedside
table from the market in Vietnam, but whatever
their size or shape, whether you use them daily
or rediscover them after years, souvenirs of this
kind serve as a reminder that exploring the
world is worth it. In a way they slow us down, reminding us of serenely calm beaches or busy
markets in small towns, they make us take a deep
breath and let us reminisce in the memories we
made when we were so far away from home, learning and discovering many new things.
DEAR SOU VENIR
DE PART U RE
How we start with lots of expectations, what we pack, what we want to experience and to bring back.
FLAMM VIDAL From my journeys, I either bring practical things back home for my family and friends – like coffee
from Costa Rica, wine from France, Chorizo from Spain – or I bring random findings that
accompany me for a very long time. That can be a piece of wood or stones from different
continents that now lie on my windowsill in
MODEL, ATHLETE, NATURE BOY AND SELF-DECLARED BUDGET JETSETTER. HAS ALREADY BEEN TO: SOUTH AMERICA, USA, AUSTRALIA, ASIA, ALL ACROSS EUROPE
Berlin. They remind me of my past journeys and create new wanderlust at the same time. I am
driven to travel because I am curious to learn
how people live somewhere else. That is why I am not interested in artificial travel worlds. I’m
not a hotel guy. Normally, I go to friends and
acquaintances and try to live with them for
many weeks and to learn the language. For me, this creates the most sustainable memories. From every place, I bring a piece of clothing that
I still wear, never throw out and whose story I tell my friends.
MEIKE WINNEMUTH I am not a huge fan of souvenirs. Most of them are only important at the very moment you
buy them – kind of an adorable but desperate attempt to materialize a memory – but back home they are just collecting dust. There is only one souvenir of my trip around the world that
survived everyday life, a little teapot, which I
cherished as some kind of home-on-a-handle. I still take it along when I am travelling.
MEIKE WINNEMUTH IS A GERMAN WRITER (E.G.FOR STERN MAGAZINE)IN 2010 SHE WON 500.000 EURO IN A TELEVISION QUIZ SHOW,TOOK THE MONEY AND TRAVELLED AROUND THE WORLD FOR A YEAR. SHE MADE A WONDERFUL AND BESTSELLING BOOK OUT OF IT. HAVE A LOOK AT THIS REFRESHING INTERVIEW WITH HER.
HAPE KERKELING On a side street I come across a cluttered souvenir shop, where I look for suitable gifts for my friends. When I find what I’m looking for, the
saleswoman wraps the three little silver
souvenirs in gift paper. When I get back to the table on the square, I give each of them one of
the packages, and keep the third. “So,” I tell them,
“now let’s open our presents at the same time!” They can hardly wait to find out what’s inside. The gifts are silver bells with handles that are
the statue of St. James. The apostle is portrayed as a pilgrim with a walking stick, scallop shell
and wide-brimmed hat. Sheelagh and Anne
are clearly moved by this gesture. I tell them, “Every time one of us rings the bell, the others will sense it. We will think of one another, and
picture ourselves back on the Camino.” We try out the little instruments, ringing at the same time in the street café.
FOR MORE THAN TWO DECADES HAPE KERKELING IS A CELEBRATED ALL-AROUND TALENT OF THE GERMAN FILM AND TELEVISION SCENE.IN MAY 2006, KERKELING PUBLISHED HIS BESTSELLER I'M OFF,WHICH WAS MADE INTO A FILM AFTER BEING SOLD MORE THAN 2 MILLION TIMES.
MIRIAM PIELHAU I never come back from a journey without a
souvenir. I always take pictures, memories and a
sun-spoilt complexion back with me. But I also buy some small or big souvenirs. Sometimes it’s
only a key fob with a nice symbol that reminds me of my holiday location. Or a bottle of that
golden olive oil that was tenderly produced on
the Italian holiday farm. Once I even imported a small piece of furniture. When I look at or enjoy
the souvenir, the holiday feeling comes back
which makes me smile. That is why the souvenir is so “dear” for me.
SINCE MIRIAM PIELHAU WAS AWARDED THE GRIMME ONLINE PRICE 2001, SHE HAS BEEN A MODERATOR IN MORE THAN TWO DOZEN TV FORMATS. ALSO KNOWN AS AN ACTRESS, SHE WAS IN SUCCESSFUL SHOWS INCLUDING "VERBOTENE LIEBE" (ARD) OR "HUBERT & STALLER" (ARD). AS AN AUTHOR SHE HAS PUBLISHED NUMEROUS COLUMNS AND TWO BOOKS.
What's the stuff you travel with ?
illustrations: Helena Melikov photo cover: Bonninstudio
CHRISTINE THÜRMER LONG DISTANCE HIKER When you meet long distance hiker
and blogger Christine Thürmer (Blog:
The Big Trip ) you will be mesmerized
by her aura and her incredible stories.
Over the last 7 years she travelled 70.000
(seventy thousand!) kilometers around the world – by foot, bike and canoe.
No wonder everyone wants to know
what’s on her elaborate packing list.
Here are some of her favourite pieces she totally relies on. She also gives a pretty unexpected answer to the question
“Have you ever brought a souvenir from your trips?” 22
As a long-distance hiker I am also an ultralighter
– due to weight reasons classical souvenirs are
therefore out of question for me. However, I have brought home a souvenir of great consequence
from my first long-distance hike from Mexico to Canada: my trail name "German Tourist".
In the American hiking scene trail names serve a rather down-to-earth purpose: after several weeks on the trail all hikers pretty much look the same: tanned, dirty greenish-brownish
clothes and all men are bearded. The unusual
trail names are then a great help to identify a specific hiker between all those Jims and Bobs.
On top of that trail, names have an almost
spiritual meaning: they stand for the new life on the trail for which you give up your old life und your old name – at least temporarily. You don't
choose your trail name yourself – it is given to you by your fellow hikers and usually refers to
a funny incident or to a personal characteristic. I have been baptized "German Tourist" because I behaved on the trail like a clueless German Tourist.
k c a p k c a B y In m Favourites on my list !
Tarptent Rainbow 1 buy it online
Enlightened Equipment : Prodigy
buy it online
Backpack: Gossamer Gear G 4 buy it online
Sleeping pad: Thermarest Prolite small
buy it online
MARKUS ALBERS WRITER & JOURNALIST You recently worked on the book
Luxury and also write for smart and elegant publications like Monocle, GQ and
brand eins regularly. What does your personal travel style look like?
The romantic exaltation of travel as a jet set
lifestyle is unfortunately as sentimental as it
is wrong. Those who travel in their jobs â€“ like I do â€“ know that it is often hard, uncomfortable
and exhausting. However, I am very happy to be on the road because I love the third places of travel: I like to work on trains, stroll through airports, read on the plane. I am agnostic with
airlines since the main thing for me is that the connection is right. As a journalist I am often
guest in great hotels that I enjoy. But when I travel in private, I normally avoid hotels. Apartments
or houses simply provide more space and comfort, especially when you are with two little children, like we are. In this situation, even the
greatest suite feels cramped. Recently, Iâ€™ve been experimenting with
home exchange and had
some very good experiences with it. Whether it
was for four weeks in Venice, Los Angeles with five minutes to the beach and a Prius in front of
the door or an extended weekend in a Victorian town house with a roof terrace in London â€“ the locations were always spectacular, the facilities
were great and the exchange partners were interesting and hospitable. I can recommend that.
What role do digital devices play in your travel? They play a big role because they reduce
complexity and luggage. I save boarding passes in Passbook. I read books on my Kindle. I look for train tickets in the app and also book there. I call a
taxi over MyTaxi (in Germany) or Uber.Translation
apps are practical, Google maps is essential.
buy it online
When I’m abroad, I often use Skype (also on the
mobile phone) and can recommend the app
Skype WIFI that connects with many of these obscure WIFI providers on airports – without
becoming a member there or having to send any credit card information. The iOS app German
Airports is helpful as well – it has an ugly user interface and can only do one thing but this it
does well: It shows flight times and gates of all German airports. I still don’t trust in completely integrated services like Kayak, I rather talk about
my travel plan with my office (if it is a business trip) or with a specialized travel agency that has known me for years.
Please tell us about some objects that you like to take with you on trips.
When I’m on a business trip or a short trip with buy it online
one overnight stay at most I only take my olive green Porter Shorthauler bag with me. It’s
always packed with the basic stuff so I have everything with me when I spontaneously have
to go somewhere: earplugs and sleep mask, Aspirin powder and throat lozenges, Ray-Ban
and foldable headphones (AKG K518 DJ), business cards and a handful of black felt pens
by Muji in the size of 0.5. Also MacBook, power
supplies, several laptop adapters, presenter. When I travel across time zones, I always take Melatonin with me. If the Shorthauler bag gets too small I also take the Porter Boston bag that
basically is a simple black and very robust travel bag.
What do you bring back home from your travels? First of all, I bring presents for my two little daughters. Nothing pedagogically valuable – rather amusing and colourful plastic nonsense
like Hello Kitty that you find everywhere in Asia
or China Towns. For me and my partner I try to find local classics or handmade things – on the conditions that it has to fit into the hand luggage and that it has to have a function so it
doesn’t just stand around afterwards. For example, I brought a small chalkboard for our kitchen from Lisbon, also beautiful pencils and
notebooks – all from A Vida Portuguesa (Rua
Anchieta, 11). When I write about an interesting company I sometimes buy their product, like a timeless stick umbrella with leather handle after I did an article about the Austrian umbrel-
la manufacturer Doppler. In Mallorca I always buy shoes, like Brogues von Lottusse. Normally they are simple no name desert boots that you
get cheap on every corner there and that only have to last for two years.
MICHELLE THORNE DIRECTOR OF WEB LITERACY PROGRAM Michelle Thorne lives in Berlin. She’s a third-culture kid who grew up in
Germany to American parents. She’s most at home on the road, which is
one reason why she loves her job as the Mozilla Foundation’s Director of Web
Literacy programs. She visits educators, technologists and governmental policy-makers around the world
and champions a more open, more empowering internet for all. michellethorne 30
My 4 favourites
For your job you travel around the world constantly. What do you pack?
As little clothes as possible! I like to pack things
Women's daily riding pant by Outlier
that need as little care as possible and that you
can combine easily for maximum use. I also
bring all kinds of laptop adapters because you
buy it online
need them all the time at meetings and events. My Kindle is always on board â€“ in the practical Dodo case. A stack of stickers from Mozillaâ€™s open
source projects which I give as small souvenirs to partners. And some tasty snacks for the road.
What role do souvenirs play for you when you travel on business?
I always try to bring back a piece of local jewellery from my trips. For example, in Uganda I bought
a lovely necklace made from paper beads at 31
Boots by Riccardo Cartillone buy it online
Bits. In Detroit I picked up something from Frida, in Tokyo a piece from Dog and in New York a silk scarf from Slow Factory.
Backpack by Ally Capellino buy it online
Nike Free buy it online
How we approach a place of longing, what we do there, who we meet and anything creating memories that last.
LOVE 01 LETTER VERONICA FOSSA Born and bred in Italy,
love of food and design
has been the central part
of her life. Having studied
a economics and manage-
ment of entertainment and
art at the graduate level, prior
to founding WE Factory, she
worked as a project manager, events producer and mar-
keting consultant in the
creative industries in Ita-
ly, Germany and Nordic countries.
Whenever arriving to Venezia during the autumn, there is a little trick to knowing whether it’s going
to be an acqua alta kind of day. Sitting on the train over Ponte della Libertà the bridge that connects the island to the mainland while heading to Santa
Lucia turn your eyes to the left, out of the window. If you see the statue of a Madonna emerging from
the water, you won’t be dealing with rain boots and boardwalks. Instead, if her adorned head is not
visible, then you’re getting yourself into the most
authentic experience the lagoon city can offer you: Wet, stinky and magical.
It’s one of those days when I’m sitting on a
silent early morning train to Venice. As the train approaches the bridge, I let my mind travel in time
to another morning a few years earlier, when things
had changed forever. Am I the only one on this train to embrace a feeling of transition every time
I am here between land, sea and sky when the air becomes palpably briny and the seagulls fly low on the wake of the train?
I have gone through the same journey thousands of times and each time it’s cathartic, both on the way in when I arrive with an empty backpack and the
way out when my bag is filled with goodies from Venice. I am a woman from Veneto, an adopted
Venetian. So technically not a Venetian, but my
heart resides in the city. A Venetian islander would slightly disagree with me: What do I share with the
city if not an
But I feel legitimized. Only a
couple of centuries ago we were
united by the same government, a
republic, the same flag representing the San
Marco lion and the same culinary culture.
Unconsciously, I have always known that at some
point in my life I was destined for this special city. I arrived with my suitcase on a foggy morning, where
you could cut the fog with a knife, like locals say. Although it was only late August, where summer can still be incredibly hot in Italy, one could already
feel that the autumn was going to be a dreadful
one for the bones of both youngsters and elderlies. The fog was clearly forecasting a season of high humidity and acqua alta.
With a map in my hands and my head up to make sure that each â€˜calleâ€™ I rushed through was the right
one, I found myself leaving the greyness behind to enter a warm and cosy pasticceria. A sign in gold
that has been standing for quite some time read Tonolo. Ah, had I known then that one morning in the future I would have dreamt about this place on the train to Venice.
I had gotten myself into trouble! A trouble that would make me arrive late to university lectures. A trouble that I would share only with the dearest
friends. A trouble that has meant high sugar contents and happiness.
A trouble that made me chose food as the industry to specialise in. Well, Tonolo is in my opinion the best pasticceria and standing cafe in Venezia!
Serving a joyful selection of freshly baked croissants and cappuccino and...
per favore un caffè d’orzo, un macchiatone, un caffè al ginseng, un caffé lungo, un espresso, un macchiato!... on white porcelains painted in blue, the café is constantly packed with locals who are addressed with the familiarity
achieved by many years of visits. That first day as an official Venetian I couldn’t know that I would have happily become one of them, part of the
family. Entering from one door and leaving from the opposite one has become a ritual throughout all the seasons, for years, always with the belly
satiated and sometimes by holding a little package wrapped in pink and
gold paper filled with fritole allo zabaione to take home to the family as edible souvenirs.
It takes a fraction of a second and the train enters Santa Lucia. We have
arrived.Welcome to the world's most genius urbanistic aberration! Prossima fermata Venezia Santa Lucia! Si avvisano i signori viaggiatori che questa é l’ultima
stazione del treno diretto a Venezia Santa Lucia.
Veneto is one of the most attractive
regions of Italy â€“ thanks to its diverse
landscape (mountains, seas, seashore) and its wonderful cuisine. There of course is Venice, one of the most
beautiful cities in the world. And there is Verona (home to Romeo and
Juliet), Padua, Vicenza, Treviso, Soave, Lake Garda and Cortina d'Ampezzo â€“ one of Europe's classiest ski resorts.
East-West expansion: 120 km North-south expansion: 220 km Population 4 925 000 Largest lake: Lake Garda Longest River Po 652 km Longest Coastline Adriatic coast 150 km
Maybe Venice is the most romantic city in the world
Combination of mountains, water, history and fantastic art treasures
HOW VENETO IMPRESSES TOURISTS… The food is incredibly tasteful!
As almost everywhere in
Italy, the food is incredibly tasteful – dozens of pas-
ta dishes, polentas and of course frutti di mare.
MOST POPULAR SOUVENIRS Ham
The wonderful one from San Daniele or Sauris
MURANO GLASS Caution! Many shops only sell products made in China. The best option is to go to Murano directly and check out Gambaro & Poggi
VENETIAN MASKS Beware of mass merchandise! Better visit one of the atmospheric manufacturers Atelier Marega
The romantic and decorative watercolor art is best purchased from master Alberto Valese and can be learned in workshops.
Gondolier Hat by Giuliana Longo
WINE Amarone red wine, white Soave DOC or Colli Asolani Prosecco
All of this issues‘ tips
and much much more can also be found
in the Dearsouvenir
smartphone app – an
ideal companion when you’re out and about hunting of gifts.
fr om veneto text: Alex Sutter photos: Cris Santos
In Veneto, rice, crops and many kinds of fruits and vegetables thrive. However, the best
sugarcane grows on the island of Guadeloupe, which is why the Venetian luxury distiller
Vittoria Capovilla produces his famous â€œRhum Rhumâ€? rum there. There is a clear edition and one that matured in wood, both of them are absolutely worth trying.
buy it online 44
buy it online
SINCE YOU CAN’T TAKE THE RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE OF ANDREA PALLADIO WITH YOU, AND SINCE THE CYPRESSES FROM THE SHORES OF LAKE GARDA WOULD DIE IN YOUR HOME, YOU SHOULD CONCENTRATE ON CULINARY SPECIALTIES.
Dolcezze, chocolates and pralines, purchased in Desenzano del Garda
buy it online Highly concentrated chocolates by Domori are a pleasure for
connoisseurs. We like the version with 100% Venetian criollo cocoa the most.
buy it online buy it online The olive oils from the shores of Lake Garda are rare and quite expensive, like the one from the
autochthonous species (which means that it only grows there) Drizzár.
Battles with heavy losses were fought for Bassano del Grappa
during World War I. Nowadays, Vittoria Capovilla distills fine
Grappa (Pomace brandy) and – which is very rare in Italy – superior brandy from old types of fruit
like rowanberry, sorb tree fruits and chequers in the beautiful city district of Rosá.
One Weekend inVeneto text: Alex Sutter photos: Cris Santos
WE DEVELOP STRONG BONDS TO THE PLACES WHERE WE EXPERIENCE SOMETHING FOR THE FIRST TIME.
Relationships to people,
activities or landscapes that
accompany you for years were
mostly built very early. If you were like
me as an adolescent sitting in the heavy
summer heat on the stone steps in the Arena
of Verona listening with ignorant ears to Aida, La Traviata or La Bohème and longing for a
cooling, opera-shortening rain shower, you would always love strolling – preferably in the cooler season – over the Piazza Brá to the
Arena recalling the hard and heated stones of the tiers, the never-ending chants and the rain
that eventually starts (once it really came). We develop strong bonds to the places where we experience something for the first time.
They become inseparable if you discover several things in the same area. Apart from
the music theatre which has accompanied me rather rarely, I also experienced my first
frenzy in Veneto. It is now more than 20 years ago. However, the memories of the
shimmering evening, the smell of the handed
Pollo alla Griglia, the tingling of the young green wine and the laughter on the terrace are still very fresh. So are the memories of
the swaying bed in our guesthouse that was
quite similar to a stretcher. Nevertheless, Iâ€™ve always returned to this terrace and on
very many visits gained new impressions of
the landscape, the wonderful little towns, the people whose language I still don’t
understand adequately and the culinary
specialties that belong to the most interesting in Italy. In this respect, it was nothing but
sensible to visit Veneto for the first issue of
Dearsouvenir. Together with my wife Toni and our friend and photographer Cris we
took the opportunity and drove off. However,
APART FROM THE MUSIC THEATRE WHICH HAS ACCOMPANIED ME RATHER RARELY, I ALSO EXPERIENCED MY FIRST FRENZY IN VENETO.
given only three days, we knew we would have
to omit many things that are worth a visit. So, there are still many reasons left to visit Veneto …
If you have left the mountains of South Tirol
KICK-OFF AT LAKE GARDA
and Trentino behind you on the Autostrada
22 (and have rushed past one or another nice village of the Dolomites) you will be attracted by the Mediterranean climate of Lake Garda
a little more to the West. We settle for our
first accommodation on the south bank in Desenzano. People here also earn a living by tourism, however, the town doesn’t seem to
be as worn out by tourism as some of the neighbouring villages. A beautiful promenade
lined with shops and cafés conveys Italianitá. Toni is not the only one delighted by the numerous and well-assorted shoe shops.
We spend the night in the recommendable four-star
Hotel Villa Rosa where they serve
light and refined fish dishes and a bottle of
the local Luganas. The morning after, we enjoy – untypical of Italy – a lavish breakfast
that satisfies all wishes from crispy bacon
to fresh berries. After strolling through the
shops we go on a motorboat trip on the lake, with new strength and (completely legal)
without a license, and enjoy the roman relics and thermal springs of Catull on the tip of
the headland of Sirmione. Our boat hirer, Pier, recommends having a look at the villa of
Maria Callas but we can’t identify it among
the numerous colourful villas on the shore. In contradiction to his recommendation (water depth!), we get as close to Sirmione
as necessary to admire the dovetail-shaped
battlements of the Scaliger Castle which
was built by the noble family of Scaliger who left behind a lot of things worth seeing in
and around Verona during the 13th and 14th
century. Around noon, we have a snack of ham and the local salami Sopressa Veneta at
the marina of Desenzano before we move on in the direction of Verona.
GOURMAND LIFE & SHOPPING IN VERONA We stay with Matteo who we found at
Booking.com and who runs a nice B &B
called LoftVerona from where we can stroll
via Piazza San Zeno to the old town. Matteo also orders a table at the balcony of Ristorante
Ponte Pietra for us, but more on that later. First, we enjoy the sun, Dolce Vita and a
Pinguino (the first ice lolly developed in 1941)
in the rich in tradition Gelateria Savoia. Then, we enter the shopping streets around Via Giuseppe Mazzini as we obviously want
to buy souvenirs. We make a find in the quite new and very chic Department Store Excelsior Milano; we stock up on local pure olive oils and (here a bit less) wickedly expensive Criollo chocolates by
Domori in the food
court “Eat’s Verona” in the basement. Like
almost all the tourists that come to Verona, we also pay a short visit to Casa di Guilietta
where the Capulet family is said to have lived and whose disputes with the Montague
family inspired Shakespeare's Romeo & Juliet. It feels like Venice during carnival here, so we are glad when we can the leave the walls
scribbled with names as well as the gaudily coloured souvenir shops. Ready for the first
Apéritivo, we walk through the Piazza delle
Erbe to the quieter quarter Ponte Pietra. One
glass of Bianco di Custoza from the place of the same name nearby reminds us of the rich
wine tradition of Veneto that we dedicate our next visit at the Bottega Vini to.
Here you can find excellent wines for fair prices available by the glass. So we move in little
steps through the Valpolicella quality levels from “Classico”, “Superiore” and “Ripasso” to “Amarone”.
Happily, we walk back to Ponte Pietra and look for the Ristorante that Matteo booked for us. It turns out to be a veritable hot spot
where many locals that also look good in daylight spend their evenings. Our host got
hold of one of only four tables on the old red and white bricked balcony that offers a truly
unforgettable panorama view right above the
rushing Etsch. Luckily, the dishes are as tasty as the view had promised and we decide to complete this evening with fine pasta and a
juicy Fiorentina steak that is enough for the three of us.
TIMELESS BEAUTY VILLA EMO
After having devoted ourselves intensely
to the culinary culture the previous day, we visit the
Villa Emo in Fanzolo on Sunday.
She belongs to the architectural jewels of
Veneto that Andrea Palladio built in times of
Renaissance for his respective customer from the clergy or bourgeoisie.
The visit of one of these villas that are mostly
belonged to each and every trip we used to make to Veneto. Villa Emo is one of the most
beautiful that we have seen so far. One reason for this is the harmonic antiquity inspired proportions and another is the extensive park that surrounds the villa. We are lucky, as
a strict music teacher is practicing with her advanced students this morning so we can stroll accompanied by classical music.
Thereby, we notice that builders in the
16th century had to struggle with the
same problems as today: due to financi-
al reasons, the noble builders had to do without expensive marble and worked extensively with Terrazzo floors instead
(quite trendy again nowadays!) and
trompe lâ€™oeil marbling which is not less beautiful at all.
©OpenStreetMap contributors, ©Mapbox, ©Foursquare
VILLA EMO Residence
ANTICA BOTTEGA DEL VINO Winery
PONTE PIETRA Bridge
TOUR GUIDE Via Stazione, VEN
EXCELSIOR MILANO Boutique
Via Scudo di Francia, 3, Verona, Veneto +39 045 800 4535 www.bottegavini.it/it
VIA GIUSEPPE MAZZINI
Outdoors & Recreation
LOFT VERONA B&B
Largo Goethe, Sirmione, Lombardia
LAKE GARDA Lake
GELATERIA SAVOIA Desserts
Via Roma, 1b, Verona, Veneto +39 045 800 2211
Via Mazzini, Verona, Veneto
Ponte Pietra, Verona, Veneto
SIRMIONE FERRY TERMINAL Piers
Sermione, Brescia, Lombardia
Dearsouvenir is the new Online Magazine that travels with you to the most wonderful places searching for the best souvenirs and memories to take home… www.d.com LOM
Via Giardini 12
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CONEGLIANO &TREVISO â€“ PROSECCO& RADICCHIO
At noon, we visit Conegliano. The nice and
small town with its Castello that you can reach walking steeply uphill and that is worth
seeing is a stronghold of Prosecco which does in fact neither originate from a place with the
same name (as does Soave) nor from a grape
variety (as Riesling) but it is pressed from the Glera grape. There are different dry and
sparkling varieties but also a still one, explains Mario who runs the Osteria Oca Bianca
(white goose) with his wife where we stop for lunch. We eat exquisite dishes on the basis of
the local Radicchio Trevisano that is not only
consumed as a salad here but also grilled or
in our case as an ingredient in lasagne.
Our last stop is the pretty city of Treviso
attracting tourists than other cities and in
spite of that (or precisely because of that)
it offers high standards of living to its inhabitants. Although the weather is not nice
anymore we spend a wonderful afternoon in
the pergolas of the old town and later at the
counter of the wine bar at Toni del Spin which is one of my favourite restaurants in Veneto. Cris
completely shares my opinion and so we try a dish that is as popular in the Philippines as in
Veneto: tripe alla Vicentina, cooked chambers of beef stomach served in tomato sauce.
Toni del Spin
Book n o i t a d n e m m reco
TRAVEL TROPHIES – (TROFEI DI VIAGGIO) BY DUCCIO CANESTRINI A strange-looking plastic figure of the Greek goddess Aphrodite "Made in Hong Kong" as an Italian holiday souvenir? Whether fake or authentic –
The behaviour to bring back evidence from our journeys, can be traced back to the 14th century.
"Travel Tropähen" by Duccio Canestrini deals exactly with these holiday rituals from an anthropological perspective.
text: Alex Sutter photos: Cris Santos
During our tour of the Veneto,
Today, however, the word grappa
distillery to the northeast of
people’s minds – and that’s exactly
Dearsouvenir visited a grappa
Lake Garda. Bad as we felt to forgo
a visit to beautiful Vicenza, we still
decided to make for Rosá, a small
town close to Bassano del Grappa.
conjures up very different ideas in
why we’re here. We’re meeting Vittorio
Capovilla, whose peers unanimously agree that he is one of the best
distillatori in the business. He does
During the First World War, the slopes
not exclusively concentrate on the
armies of the Austro-Hungarian and
pomace ( grape pulp, a leftover of the
in the Battle of the River Piave. Ernest
also dedicates his considerable talent
a volunteer in 1918 and was wounded
highly entertaining and educational
experiences in a most enthralling
Capo’s daughter Livia and his son
of the nearby Mount Grappa saw the
classic grappa distillates made from
German Empires take on the Italians
traditional wine making process), Capo
Hemingway, who entered the war as
to fruity brandies, as we learn on our
in that very battle later described his
visit on this fine morning.
manner in the book A Farewell to Arms.
Alvise are kind enough to take quite
PHOTOS: Cris Santos
PHOTOS: Cris Santos
Handcrafted to the very last detail: Every single one of Capo's fruit spirits is handsealed with a plug and wax and a knot tied to the bottle neck. Each spirit variety has its own individual colour of sealing wax.
a lot of time out of their Saturday
a peaceful home in which Capoâ€™s
began his career as a car mechanic
milk cans. Toni, who until now had
to tell us all about how their father
and later "graduated" to racing cars. Only later did he decide to apply his technical abilities to the development
of distillation equipment which is still produced, make that hand made, to
this day in the Black Forrest to his original specifications. At the age of 40 he finally took the leap and made a professional career out of his hobby!
products rest look a lot like over-sized
never shown too much of an interest in brandy, volunteered as our designated driver. Now, however, as Alvise instructs
her expertly to dip a finger into the still undiluted brandy (80%) and savour
the different flavours ranging from summer muscat pears to apricots
and wild raspberries, her interests are suddenly stirred.
After a thorough introduction to the
Capovilla specialises in traditional,
happen within them we are taken to
are happy to turn our attention to the
copper distillers and the processes that
the storage where the fruit is ripened. The stainless steel tubs providing
aromatic types of fruit, and Cris and I wide selection of distillates all of which are made without added sugars or
1. The spirits age in temperature-controlled stainless steel casks 2. Colourful variety on the tasting table at the distillery in Rosรก 3. The finished product: A precious souvenir from Veneto
4. "Experimental arrangement"; following Toni's advice we decided not to finish them all 5. Hand-labelled tags indicating the number of 76
PHOTOS: Cris Santos
bottles produced as well as every bottle's unique history
6. Capo's son Alvise instructs the author in the art of the so-called "fingertip tasting" of high-proof spirits at cask strength ( before the addition of spring water to create an agreeable alcohol level). DEARSOUVENIR
artificial flavours. The finished products
We’re delighted when Livia and Alvise
hand-written tags affixed to them. We
after our tour and we get to sample
are then artfully packaged and have stock up on souvenirs including quince, black currant and rowanberry (which
is actually poisonous in its raw form) brandies.
Towards the end of our tour we are
ask us to join them for "pranzo" (lunch)
typical regional white asparagus. The
rest of the day is dedicated to chilling in the wild and romantic town of Bassano
on the river Brenta before we make our way to Treviso.
introduced to Capo’s newest project: Some years ago he acquired an
old sugar cane plantation on the Guadeloupe island of Maria Galante
where he now distils his own rum, a
beverage of surpassing quality trading under the highly catchy name "Rhum Rhum".
CAPOVILLA DISTILLATI Via giardini, 12 Rosà 36027 Vicenza (VI) · Italia
PHOTOS: Cris Santos
RE C IPE S
cod into pieces
and place them into a
pan full of water. 2. Leave it
in water for 2 to 3 days, changing
the water twice daily. 3. After soaking,
change the water again and place the cod and
water, along with a bay leaf on the stove and cook for 30 minutes on low heat, removing
any foam that comes to the surface. 4. After
30 minutes, remove the cod from the pan
Remove the skin and the bones from the cod
and add 2 gloves of garlic. 6. Take a wooden spoon (or immersion hand blender) and start
to mix vigorously, slowly adding the olive oil. 7. The quantity of the oil will depend on the cod
itself. 8. Continue mixing until the cod turns
light and has a whipped, mousse-like texture. 9. Taste and add salt if required. Serve on fresh
cut bread slices or grilled slices of polenta. 10. Sprinkle top with some cracked black pepper.
and place in a container with high sides. 5.
olive oil to ser ve: cracke d blac k pep per Yield: Serve s6-8 Prep T ime: 3 days Cook Time: 30 mi A Ven ns etian specia whipp lty of ed sa lt on sli ces of ed cod serv ed bread or po lenta .
1. Preheat the oven to 365 °F (185°C). 2. On high heat, boil a pot of water for the pasta. 3. In a large saucepan
with olive oil over medium heat, sauté the garlic until the cloves color. 4. Add the clams and the mussels. Toss
until they open. 5. Add the squid, shrimp and tomatoes. Cook together for about 5 minutes. 6. Pour in the white wine. Toss again for another 5 minutes. 7. Season with
salt and pepper. Sprinkle in the parsley. Turn off the heat, and cover the pan to keep the sauce warm. 8. When
the water for the pasta is boiling, sprinkle in some salt, and then cook the spaghetti for 2 minutes less than the cooking time indicated on the package. This is because the pasta will be further cooked in the oven. Drain the
spaghetti. 9. Add the spaghetti to the saucepan, and
mix well with the sauce. 10. Divide the spaghetti into 4 portions, making sure each has enough sauce. Place
each portion onto a large sheet of parchment paper, and then tie each sheet of paper to form a sealed pouch. Place
all the pouches onto a baking pan. 11. Bake the pouches
for 5 minutes. 12. Serve immediately after removing the pouches from the oven, and open the pouches on the table, cutting away as much paper as you
can to avoid mess when eating. 13. Drizzle with olive oil and enjoy.
recipe: Rowena Dumlao-Giardina
oi e v li
s e v r e
I D RE
S T EN
o n i g vir a r s e v Ext o cl c i l r p m i 2Â ga r h s s e m g a r cl s 8 la d n u o 2p els / s 1 s 1 mu d or n s d i u e to qu s a 1 po m om u t i d y r es e r o e t m a 4 ch m s o e t c e n r u u ine 14 o e mat w e t g i r h a 4l yw r d p ed r u p c e p o pp 1/2 h e c p ly d e n n a , fi y e Salt l ti ars t p e h gh s a e r p F s s e nc u o 12
L IVA R AR
How we approach a place of longing, what we do there, who we meet and anything creating memories that last.
LOVE 01 LETTER DAVID LIDA I am the author of three
books (two in English,
one in Spanish) and the
editor of two more. I have
been a journalist for more
than 20 years, principally
in the U.S. and Mexico, but
also for magazines in Eng-
land, Canada and Peru. I have
lived in Mexico City off and on
– mostly on – since 1990, and
there is nowhere else on earth where I have felt more at
home. This is probably whe-
re I'm supposed to go into a song-and-dance about the
wife, the kids, the dogs, the
porch and so forth; when I get them you'll be the first to know.
The other day I walked across the street from my apartment and ordered an espresso in a café. Just
as the waiter brought it to me, a middle-aged man
carrying a shoeshine box on a strap over his shoulder walked by, and asked if I would be interested
in his services. Glancing at my shoes, very much
in need of a polishing, I told him that I would be most grateful for them. The man was almost pain-
fully skinny, with a wrinkled face, thinning black hair and a sparse beard. It was a hot day, and his
shirt sleeves were rolled up, revealing a dense network of protruding veins. When he spoke, it was
impossible not to notice that he was missing several crucial teeth. He squatted before me, remo-
ved some items from his kit, and went to work. As he began, he also started a monologue that would last throughout the shoeshine.
He told me his name was Marco Antonio Martinez Pacheco, and before becoming an itinerant shoes-
hine man, he’d spent 27 years living on the street, more or less in an alcoholic stupor. He said that
in addition to all those years of abusing himself, he wasn’t very conscientious of others, either, and
one day, he
items from a sandwich stand
on the street. When he tried to sell what
heâ€™d taken, he was arrested by the police. He was
tried and sentenced to seven and a half years in
jail. At the time, he had been 40 years old, and al-
though his initial reaction was despair, very quick-
ly Marco Antonio told me that he felt something like elation. He realised that he was sowing what
he had reaped, and that previously he had not taken any responsibility for his life. He trembled. He
had never before believed in spiritual awakening, but then and there, he had found himself.
To say that Mexico City is the only place I know whe-
re one can get divine advice along with a shoeshine
will only go so far to explain what I love about this place, which I have called home since 1990. I am
always subconsciously awarenever too far from my consciousness that there is a great deal of inequali-
ty here; about half of the cityâ€™s population lives at or below the poverty level. Without possessing a great deal, I feel like I am surrounded by abundance. I
feel it every Tuesday at the tianguis â€“ the market on
– which set
up shop once a week
outside my door, looking over
the piled heaps of mangoes, watermelons
and bananas; tomatoes, onions and jalapeño chile peppers. I feel it in the spring when the jacarandas bloom and, as their petals fall, leave a lavender car-
pet on the sidewalk. I feel it nearly every day with
the sun on my face; it’s a true privilege to live in a temperate climate.
But I feel it most of all in the testimonies of people
like Marco Antonio, who day after day improvise their survival on the streets of the city. I have ne-
ver tired of hearing their stories, and in 25 years, largely due to them, I have never been bored in Mexico City. I love this place because I love its citizens.
Mexico City â€“ built over the ruins of a great Aztec city this megacity is today is one of the most exciting places in the world. Author David Lida even calls it the "capital of the 21st century". 2300 meters above sea level with more than 25 million inhabitants, heavy traffic, dense pollution and some security issues, Mexico City is not exactly an easy going place for tourists. Once you get captured by this complex city you will enjoy its art, its markets and friendly people.
East-West expansion: 30 km North-south expansion: 40 km Population 8 851 000 1
Largest Park: Bosque de Chapultepec with an area of 4 km Longest Street Paseo de la Reforma mit 32 km Highest building Torre Mayor 225 m
Mexico City has more than 160 museums
Cuisine is colourful
Culinary aztec and mayan traditions meet the influences of the spanish and french cuisine.
HOW MEXICO CITY IMPRESSES TOURISTS… 2
Nightlife is wild and intense
It starts early and continues until sunrise. Weekends begins on Thursday. They call it “little Friday”.
1. Photo: 2. Photo: 3. Photo: DEARSOUVENIR
Marioly Vazquez Per Swantesson
MOST POPULAR SOUVENIRS
Mexico City HAMMOCKS These beautiful hamacas are definitely worth making some room in your suitcases for. The super-sized family version is particularly popular.
SOMBREROS A popular joke-purchase at local markets: straw hats also come hugely different qualities like this one from Tardan.
Tequila The high-proof spirit made from blue agave is available in three age levels: Blanco (not aged), Reposado (several months) and A単ejo (aged for two or more years in wooden barrels). Make sure your choice is certified as 100% agave!
Both markets and folklore-themed shops offer an abundance of handcrafted wood, ceramics and textiles.
Salsas & Moles
Spice blends and chili sauces are staples of the spicy Mexican cuisine and also make a perfect souvenir. // see our supermarket story
FRIDA KAHLO MOTIFS
All of these issues‘
tips and much much
more can also be found
The artist’s paintings are ubiquitous. We recommend a visit to the Museo Frida Kahlo.
in the Dearsouvenir
smart phone app – an
ideal companion when you’re out and about hunting or gifts.
Smart phone case from the Redbubble webshop DEARSOUVENIR
THE HORIZONTAL A LIFE-ALTERING EXPERIENCE BABEL
ROBERTO VELASCO ALVAREZ
is a politician and lawyer
specialising in Legislative
Affairs & Political Strategy.
With its forever-dramatic skies, 22 million
inhabitants, 25 thousand streets, and 690 years
of history, Mexico City is an urban behemoth beyond any other city in America. Perhaps the
only way in which it is possible to get a glimpse of this immensity is when landing at Mexico City’s International Airport; even from the air, the
human eye cannot catch the whole extension of this diverse, multicultural, and hectic metropolis.
The Mexican capital –nestled in the middle of the colossal mountains that form the Valley of
Mexico– is divided into 16 boroughs, ranging from the mainly agricultural Milpa Alta to the chic and cosmopolite Miguel Hidalgo. Every borough
is subdivided into colonias or neighborhoods, summing
neighborhoods are extroverted and sleepless; others are obscure and unfriendly. Every colonia has a personality of its own; every citizen or tourist
has an opportunity to find a match with his own
curiosities, interests, or obsessions. Experiencing Mexico City is a life-altering experience.
THREE PLACES FOR THE WANDERER It’s Sunday evening at
10pm. Although it’s raining,
I decide to walk home through
Parque México. I listen to tango music
playing in the Lindberg Forum, that is the heart
of the park. The Forum is composed of a main
courtyard surrounded by a semi-circular pergola, five monumental pillars and a fountain known as Fuente de los cántaros (Fountain of the Jugs). I walk towards the music; some 50 people gathered on the side of the passageway are dancing to a song
by Carlos Gardel. I suddenly feel overwhelmed by
the scene, yet it is a typical Sunday evening in the colonia Condesa.
Crawling with bikes of the city’s public bike-
sharing program, EcoBici, parks and pathways, three colonias (Condesa, Roma and Juárez) form
a cultural epicenter for the bobo and the cool
hunter. This area, in the way of gentrification and
half made of beautiful art deco buildings and late-nineteenth century houses, offers young
art galleries, designer stores, and a never-ending hipster party scene. 96
One of my preferred walks is across the murals by
Bastardilla, Blu, Ciler, Curiot, Ericailcane, Jaz, Saner, Swoon, and Vena2 that are displayed all throughout the area
Fifity24mx. These three colonias
also have some of the city’s best restaurants. I
especially recommend Zapote (Guanajuato 138, Col. Roma Norte) a beautiful slow food venue by young chef Karina Morales; the burrata and
tomatoes pizza, and the carrot cake are not to be missed. If up for drinks, Limantour (Álvaro Obregón
106, Col. Roma Norte) has a great mixology, with a variety of mezcal and tequila cocktails East of the
Roma-Juarez-Condesa corridor you can stopover our most cherished place, the Historic Centre of
Mexico City. Every week, six million visitors come to this ancient neighborhood that spreads across
the grid built by the Spanish conquerors on top of the ruins of Tenochtitlán. For the Aztecs, this was
the very spot where Mexico City was founded. The Historic Centre holds some of the City’s most beautiful buildings. The National Museum of Art and the Postal Palace are unique in their eclectic style.
With an Art Nouveau exterior and an Art Deco interior, decorated with murals by Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros, among others, the Palace of Fine Arts is a true architectonic jewel.
The Centro also holds Mexico City’s main plaza, the Zócalo. Enclosed by the National Palace, our
Supreme Court of Justice, City Hall, the Metropolitan Cathedral, and the ruins of the prehispanic Templo Mayor (Great Temple), this square is deeply
intertwined with our history. It was the Aztec’s
main ceremonial center and, even recently, has witnessed some of the country’s decisive social protests.
Almost every day, the Zócalo displays
some kind of cultural activity, like the International Lights Festival (FILUX) or the International Book Fair in Mexico City.
On the eastern side of the Historic Centre, the old
Merced Market (La Merced), located originally on what used to be the Convent of Nuestra Señora de
la Merced de Redención de Cautivos, is the city’s second largest food retail marketplace. Walking
through the neighborhood you may find the old and very unique Nidjei Israel Synagogue (Justo Sierra 71, Col. Centro), or taste traditional Mexican
food in the antique-decorated Roldán 37 (Roldán 37, Col. Centro), which serves only food prepared with ingredients bought on the Merced Market. The
Centro has also numerous restaurants, cantinas, hotels, shops, and museums.
THE PLAZA DE LOS ARCÁNGELES (ARCHANGELS’S SQUARE) IN COLONIA SAN ÁNGEL. In the southwestern side of the city, the Álvaro
Obregón Borough is home for the fashionable and pretty San Ángel neighborhood. In springtime, the
purple flowers of the countless jacaranda trees shelter its colonial-style streets, paved with large river stones. Every day, elegantly dressed ladies
walk to the church, or shop around in the stores
and stands located on the streets and
gardens. On Altavista Avenue, Juan
with Frida Kahlo)
is a must see. Next to the
studio-house, is one of our capital's
most traditional cuisines, Restaurante San Ángel
Inn; the mole poblano and the patito laqueado a la zarzamora (lacquered duck in blackberry sauce) are among Mexico City’s finest dishes. This avenue
also hosts a sumptuous shopping corridor and an array of luxury restaurants.
On the south end of the colonia, you can walk around the picturesque Temple of San Jacinto
(San Jacinto 18-Bis, Col. San Ángel); this church
is famous because it was the place where the St. Patrick’s Batallion, a group of Irish soldiers who
fought on the Mexican side in the US-Mexico war,
was shot by the American army. On Saturdays, the Plaza beside the temple is converted into the
Garden of the Art, a marketplace for paintings, ornaments, and other items made by local craftsmen. Likewise, the Bazar del Sábado (San Jacinto 11, Col. San Ángel) opens its doors to sell
ceramics, jewelry, artistic brass, encapsulated flowers, and textiles, among other Mexican crafts
and souvenirs; breakfast and lunch are served in the bazar’s patio.
My favorite place in San Ángel is the mostly
unknown Plaza de los Arcángeles or Archangels’ Square (2a Cerrada Frontera S/N, Col. San Ángel). The Square is a small, quiet garden, walled with
red and purple bugambilias; in the center of the plaza there is a quarry fountain, and on every
corner there is a carved stone bench, dedicated to an archangel; the place looks like it was taken from Agnieszka Holland’s Secret Garden. In the
area you can also visit the Carrillo Gill Museum (Revolución 1608, Col. San Ángel), dedicated to
modern art, or the El Carmen Museum (Revolución S/N, Col. San Ángel), that features mummies from the Order of the Brothers of Our Lady of Mount Carmel.
LIVING AND LEAVING MEXICO CITY I talk to Matt, a 20-something English guy with wobbly Spanish. He has been living in the city for a short while. He is native to a small town and
decided to come to Mexico to experience a “real
cultural shock.” After a few months of nonstop partying, he is just about to go back to the UK.
We chat about many things: how many friends he
has made, the massiveness of the city, the urban poverty, and the profound religiousness of the Mexicans. He is impressed about the latter. “Even young people are very Catholic,” Matt explains;
in spite of this, he notices that people in the city are deeply open-minded.
“What is the most important thing you will take from Mexico City?” I ask. He starts talking about
discovering the importance of traveling and
getting to know other cultures. He is marveled by how different people are here. “You never notice
this fact until you travel; how warm people can be. Mexicans are also very direct, very upfront about
their emotions, nothing like the British,” he says with a wide smile.
I ask what he will miss the most about living in Mexico. He answers hastily: “Having options.” Each
and every day of the week, there are almost too many things to do in the city. He finishes saying he
is sad to leave. “I now get this feeling that it is better here. I will come back,” he concludes.
D A E D E H T F O
s s o e t d r e a i D s MuGAR U S o l EET AS
E C N A D SW
hear stories about, or look
at pictures of this exceptional Mexican
Festival of the Dead, the Día des los Muertos, you
are left in awe and with considerable wanderlust.
text: Wolfgang Macht, Patrick Kiurina illustrations: Bethany Walrond
UNESCO declared this festival Human Patrimony as well as a “Masterpiece of Oral Heritage and Intangible by Humanity”. Travel enthusiasts have a special date
on their bucket list: To spend November 1st and 2nd in Mixquic or on the island of Janitzio. Nobody celebrates their friendship to the dead as earnestly
and exuberantly as they do in Mexico. But even if you cannot travel during the official festivities, cheerful depictions of the dead like grinning skeletons and
colorfully adorned skulls are omnipresent within Mexican culture and can be purchased as souvenirs at markets and in stores throughout the year.
Celebrations last from October 30th
till November 2nd. But weeks ahead
stores and markets start selling artificial skulls, skeletons made from
wire and papier mĂ˘chĂŠ, depictions
of the famous "Calavera Catrina", coffins made out of marzipan and
"calaveras de dulce" (skulls made from frosting).
A N I A V C I I R X T E M E M D E O A H S E T D T E U H O T AB F O T L U C
The belief focuses on the night from
November 1st to the 2nd in which the
dead are said to return to visit the living. A festive reception is prepared for this annual family reunion: the graves will
be decorated, the houses cleaned, and offerings presented. They even scatter
flower petals on the way from the house to the graveyard â€“ so the deceased wonâ€™t
get lost. The ghostly short trip ends in a boozy farewell at the graveyard, which
remains an unforgettable experience for all tourists.
Purpose-built for this fest are skulls made from marzipan or frosting, chocolate
skeletons and coffins, as well as the â€œpan de Muertoâ€?. As a sign of everlasting love
you can add your name to the skulls and give them as personalised gifts to your loved ones.
“La calavera Catrina” is the most famous motif from the realm of the dead. Mexicans
have a mad love and obsession with this popular skeleton lady. There are countless
figures, pictures and sweets with her
likeness. And they also love to dress up and fix their make-up like La Catrina.
The most famous Festivals of the Dead can
be found here: the island Janitzio in the Lago de Pátzcuaro, Tzinzunzan (Michoacán), Villa
de Etla (Oaxaca), in Milpa Alta and Mixquic, 40km from Mexico City.
An animated short
film about Dia des los Muertos.
Unique local designers and manufacturers are not the only ones who make our Dearsouvenir heart skip a beat. We also venture out
to supermarkets, hardware stores, paper shops and drug stores. It can absolutely be relaxing and inspiring to take your time and enjoy strolling through a local supermarket. And to really examine the customary products and brands in detail. Nowhere else have we found this many surprising and affordable souvenirs! Try it out for yourselves!
t, h c a M g an g f l er b Wo u r G : e t in ex Sab s o t n Sa s i r C e : m r o a D hot e i rt r e a w E M l l e : t ab e n s n & A g n i tyl
buy it online
de la Abuela What it is: Chocolate that dissolves in water or
milk. “Chocolate de la Abuela“ means something
like “grandmother’s chocolate”. Depending on
the brand, they can be small chocolate bars or
hexagonal pieces that you can divide up into smaller bits. They are usually dissolved in Milk or Kahlúa, a
Mexican coffee liqueur.
checking your goods
according to the following criteria:
YUMMY: Which spice, candy, drink has made you
happy and would be a goodgift? #products and #groceries
PRACTICAL: Which household items are used here, but not at home? #hardware
PECULIAR: Which local specialty will leave your
people at home in awe? #cannedgoods and #conveniencefoods
FUNNY: Which wrapping, which slogan makes you laugh out loud? #candy #cleaningsupplies
CHEAP: What is a lot cheaper here than at home?
#cosmetics #medication #dietarysupplements, #stationary
What it is: A spice paste to make typical Mexican sauces Mole is the name of the various sauces and meals that
can be made from this mixture containing up to
75 ingredients. Depending on the pasteâ€™s composition
(for example chilli, sesame seeds, onions, cilantro,
pumpkin seeds) it can be the basis for a green or a red
sauce. The Mole Poblano is especially exotic as it is
made with cocoa.
buy it online
What it is: Mexican spice paste with a hint of spice. Salsa Verde is one of
themost well known Mexican spice sauces next to Guacamole.
It mostly consists of tomatoes and
jalape単o chilli peppers, combined with
e d r e v
brandy vinegar, cilantro and onions. This combination gives it the subtle spiciness and fruity zest.
buy it online What it is: Marinated brown chilli peppers with a spicy aroma. Lucero
Chile Chipotles are marinated and pickled after a 50-year-old tradition. The spicy marinade consists of vinegar, sugarcane, and a little bit
of alcohol, garlic and salt. Chile Chipotles are the ideal basis for any Mexican dish.
What it is: Mexican syrup based on caramelised , sweetened milk. Making it from goat’s milk
or a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk is typical
for Cajeta. It will then be cooked on a low flame till the milk has thickened and caramelised .
de e e c l ch u d le
Depending on the region Cajeta – Dulce de Leche stands for the traditional syrup or milk candy.
buy it online
More from our Mexican supermarketTour, worth bringing back home:
traditional Mexican avocado sauce, served with tortillas, tortilla chips, or
ROMPOPE: A drink made of egg yolk
grilled meat. The mixture contains
and milk, similar to the British
the classic guacamole ingredients
"Eggnog". Rompope is a traditional
such as onions, garlic, jalape単o, lime
Mexican drink with egg yolk, milk
and special spices. You only have to
and vanilla being the main ingre-
add freshly pureed avocado.
dients. It is usually an alcoholic beverage based on rum. It is said to
buy it online
have its origins in the monasteries of the city of Puebla.
ALEGRIAS DE AMARANTO: A granola bar with an amaranth base. The Alegrias
de Amaranto is a popular snack in Mexico. Basic ingredients are usually
amaranth and honey. Depending on the kind, various nuts like walnuts, peanuts, raisins or nougat have been added.
EPAZOTE A plant with an intense scent, used in Mexico traditionally as
a medicinal plant and spice. Epazote is also called the â€œMexican Goose-
footâ€? in German. Because it alleviates flatulence, in the Mexican cuisine it
is often added to dishes containing beans. As a herbal brew, with dried
leafs, it is said to relieve gastrointestinal problems.
MEZCAL More information
about this drink on page 120.
SALSA BÚFALO HUITLACOCHE
FLOR DE CALABAZA Courgette flowers
for the preparation of Mexican dishes. Flor de calabaza is often translated
A sauce based on the corn smut
as “pumpkin blossom” or “zucchini
delicacy. Huitlacoche is also called
blossom”. The bright yellow blossoms
the Mexican truffle. Corn smut is a
are typical ingredients for traditional
pathogenic fungus, considered a
Mexican dishes such as enchiladas or
delicacy especially in Eastern Mexico.
corn soup. They can also be used for
Harvested prior to sporulation and
cooked with garlic and other ingredients it is then used to prepare sauces for tacos or quesadillas.
text: Mario Münster photos: Florencia Morán
MEZ CAL A
r o u Liq
ik ss 1
MEZCAL – AFTER LONDON AND BARCELONA, THE MEXICAN HIGH END CRAFT SPIRIT MEZCAL IS ABOUT TO CONQUER BERLIN. THE BARTENDER ROGER BREITENEGGER AND MEXICAN CHRISTIAN SCHRADER ARE THE DRIVING FORCE. DEARSOUVENIR
1. Bartender Roger Breitenegger appreciates craft spiritâ€™s diversity 2. Christian Schrader tours Berlin under the pseudonym Agavera
last few years,
I’ve been drinking
my occasional glass of
Mezcal. But it was only in Ja-
nuary of this year that I bought my
own first bottle. And gave it away as a
present right away. It was a wet and cold eve-
ning in Berlin, and I was sitting with a female fri-
end in the car somewhere at Sonnenallee, with
the Mezcal between us. We drank from the bottle, Matt Berninger was murmuring something about
“blood buzz” in the background, and after the se-
cond sip the Mezcal stabilised our life situation ra-
dically. This confirmed a piece of Mexican knowled-
ge: Mezcal is good for everything in life. You have the flu? Drink Mezcal. You are happy? Drink Mezcal. You have worries? Drink Mezcal.
My own Mezcal story somehow sets the tone for
everything the drink stands for. It’s a drink full of
stories, it comes with a story that combines cultural identity, tradition and zeitgeist so naturally
that it’s no surprise that the liquor is most popular DEARSOUVENIR
3. Christian Schrader: â€œMezcal wants to be kissed.â€œ 4. Mezcal: hand-made tradition, clandestine design
in the foodie community. Authenticity and crafts-
manship are the most important currencies the-
re. The raw and seemingly clandestine style of the Mezcal bottles doesn’t harm either.
A DRINK TO KISS Mexican born Christian Schrader is kind of an un-
derground ambassador for Mezcal. Under the label Agavera he tours through Berlin at weekends with
a bicycle and a mobile bar, visiting food festivals, marketplaces, exhibitions and private tastings. With him he has an exclusive selection of different Mexican Mezcals and a mission: bringing the
Mexican culture and identity to Berlin – beyond 3
Sierra Tequila and culinary Tex Mex nonsense like
guacamole from a tube. If you listen to Christian
talking about Mezcal you get the impression that, instead of blood, the agave liquor runs through his veins. He combines impressive knowledge about
products and production with cheerful passion. When he is asked about the best way to drink Mezcal he answers: “Many sips, as if you give it many little kisses.”
Christian Schrader shares his passion for Mezcal with the bartender Roger Breitenegger. In Orani-
enburgerstraße, Roger runs a pop-up bar that changes its theme every few months. Over the past
weeks the bar was named TU SALUD and was dedicated solely to craft beer and Mezcal. Roger is not
surprised by the hype around Mezcal that recently
started. “Mezcal is a maximal craft product – it perfectly suits the zeitgeist”, he says. Mezcal is crafted
by many small family businesses. It is a completely natural product. And, according to Roger, it can be
perfectly combined with craft beer because there is a Mezcal for every brewing method.
Christian and Roger are also enthusiastic about the
cohesion between the Mezcal producers – despi-
te all the competitors. This is proved by a situation that occurred with Gernot Allnoch, the ambassa-
dor for San Cosme Mezcal, the best-known Mezcal right now. Those who work with Mezcal see themselves as ambassadors for a cultural good and not for a brand. A pleasant experience.
MEZCAL TAKES TIME AND COMES AT A COST Mezcal is made from the heart of the agave. Befo-
re this happens, the producers need patience. The heart of the agave can be used before the plant blooms for the first and only time. This moment
comes after six to ten life years. Over these years the position and the weather conditions determine the character of the future Mezcal to a lar-
ge extent. The harvested hearts, that can weigh up to 100 kilograms, are cooked and mashed. For the
cooking process, pits in the ground are traditionally covered with hot lava stones. While in the pit, the
agave absorbs the aromas of the ground and the Mezcal gets its typical smoky flavor. The hearts are then mashed with a millstone. This is followed by
fermentation with yeast and two distillations. Afterwards, the bottling can begin, unless the Mezcal is supposed to be stored and mature in barrels.
Good Mezcal can be recognized by an alcohol content between 45 and 55 percent per volume. Within this spectrum, you deal with a pure product with
It often is smoky, so-
metimes it has a soft and
5. Mezcal ambassadors: Christian Schrader and Roger Breitenegger
sweet taste that transports the cha-
racter of the agave, and it always tastes
“clean” somehow – which is why you should
enjoy it purely to experience all flavours. Good
Mezcal comes at a cost that is due to the complex production method, the small output and the long distance between Mexico and Germany. A bottle
of good Mezcal easily costs 40 to 50 euros. But it is
worth every cent and is a good companion in every life situation – as we already learned.
! s r e e h C
: t x e : o t ho
: g n i l y t
ria e l Va os t n s Sa rie a M
t r e b u h Sc
rm a D
d a r
t n a c i x e m a
n o i
Mexico is famous
for its beautiful and color-
ful piñatas made of paper ma-
che. The colourful Mexican Valeria
Schubert manufactures these creations in
all colours and forms in her studio. We asked the
artist to explain what the hovering figurines are all about.
WITH "VALENTINA PIÑATAS" YOU WANT TO BRING A PIECE OF MEXICO TO GERMANY. WHAT DO THE COLOURFUL PAPER MACHE FIGURINES MEAN TO YOU? When I think
back to my childhood the first thing that comes
to my mind are the many beautiful memories of the piñatas of my birthday parties. They always
were so big, colourful and filled with many fruits, candy and small surprises. In Mexico a party without a piñata is not a real party.
WHAT EXACTLY IS A PIÑATA? A piñata is
a handmade figurine made of paper mache and
decorated with colourful paper that is smashed during an exuberant game.
SOUNDS FUNNY. HOW EXACTLY DOES THE GAME WORK? First of all, you have to hang the
piñata on a string so it hangs over the heads of
the children. They form a circle around the piñata,
and everyone has to hit it with a stick. Of course, 132
THE PIÑATA WITH VALERIA SCHUBERT
the birthday child starts but then it’s every
child’s turn. While they hit they sing a traditional Mexican song.
SO, THE IDEA IS TO HIT THE PIÑATA WITH THE STICK UNTIL IT RAINS CANDY, FRUITS AND SMALL SURPRISES. Exactly! When the
piñata rips open, all the children start running as
DEARSOUVENIR fast as they can and collect everything they can TIP: find. For this purpose, small bags are distributed IF YOU WANT TO BRING before the game. BACK A PIÑATA FROM MEXICO YOU THERE ARE PIÑATAS WITHOUT STICKS AS FIND CLASSICAL AND WELL. Yes, those are the pull piñatas. They have strings beneath them that all of the children have to POP-CULTURAL VARIETIES IN EVERY pull at the same time. This is easier than the hitting ARTS AND CRAFT MARKET with the sticks, especially for smaller children. IN THE COUNTRY. 134
WHAT IS THE BACKGROUND OF THE GAME? Initially, all piñatas were shaped like stars
with 7 points. They represented the fight of mankind against the 7 deadly sins. Every point
represents one deadly sin, and the strong colours
symbolisethe temptation of the devil. The stick the piñata is hit with represents the power we
set against the evil, and with every hit we destroy the curse of the sins. The candy in the piñata
represents the riches of the Kingdom of Heaven. After you beat the sins you are rewarded with
the riches of heaven. – Nowadays, the religious symbolism of the piñata in Mexico mostly got lost so it only exists for the fun of it.
buy it online
Valentina Pi単atas is a start-up
company founded in July 2013. Behind this project is Valeria Schubert, a mexican lady, who
creates all products tenderly
with a focus on details by hand, in her studio.
Valentina Pi単atas 136
In str uc ti ons WITH MARIE DARME
text: Yasmeen Dabu photos: Cris Santos
1. Take the toilet paper
roll. If you don't have any to hand, you can use cardboard and cut it (20x20cm). Then you have to roll the cardboard.
2 2. You only have to do this
step, if you cut the cardboard as explained in step 1. The rolled piece of cardoard should be fixed with tape then. If you used a toilet paper roll, just skip it.
3. Take the newspaper
and the toiletpaper roll for building the arms of the cactus.
4. To shape the arm, you'll need the newspaper. Shape it elongated in the size you prefer the arms to be. Then fix it on the paper roll with tape.
What you'll need:
NEWSPAPER, CONFETTI AND/OR CANDY, MASKING TAPE, CLEAR TAPE, WHITE STRING, GREEN STRING, GLUE STICK, GLUE, TOILETPAPER ROLL OR CARDBOARD, GREEN CREPE PAPER, SCISSORS
5. Cover the top with
tissue paper and fix it with glue.
6. After covering the top, place the string over it, and fix it with tape again.
7. Now you can start, by
filling your Pi単ata with your favorite sweets, candies and colourful confetti through the very bottom of the paper rolll.
9 10. Now place the 'lid' on
the hole and put tissue paper over the hole where you attached the string. Fix the tissue paper with tape.
11 11. Cut the green crepe
paper into pieces that are 4cm long. At the interval of 2cm repeat cutting in 2cm long lines.
12. Take your glue and the crepre stripes that you prepared in step 11.
8. The next step is to cut
a disc out of the prepared cardboard. It should have the size of the paper roll. You can use the paper roll as tempate to make things easier.
9. Having the disk prepa-
red, make a little whole in the very center of it, so you can pull through the string.
13. Now you can start
sticking your crepebands onto the paper roll in a helix-motion. Start from the bottom and don't wrap the strips until the very top yet.
14. The arms have to be
covered in crepe seperately. Now check, if the string of your Piñata is fixed properly. If not: Take another piece of tape give it a little more strength. As soon as everything is fixed, you can finish covering the Piñata with crepe until the very top.
15. Voilá! :)
! d e h s i n i F 15 142
VASOS DE VIDRIO SOPLADO MY DEARSOUVENIR FROM MEXICO
text: Miriam Janke photos: Cris Santos
MIRIAM JANKE Miriam Janke lived and worked as a student and journalist for 2 years in Mexico. Recently she has become
a guest docent for moderation at the university ITESO
in Guadalajara. Before Mexico she wore clothes in black,
grey and at most Bordeaux-red at times. Afterwards: tomato red, turquoise, grass-green, bright Frida-Khaloblue â€Ś Over the years she brought over 20 kilograms of
Mexican art handicraft to Germany. She lives in Berlin, is independent and feels that in a job professionalism and humanity belong together. Miriam conceptualises
and moderates events in German, English and Spanish.
In addition, she trains and coaches people that perform, speak, write and performs in public.
Have you ever been to Mexico? Get ready. For a explosion of colour, form and scent that
carries you away in a warm wave as soon as you set foot on this land. At every corner a scent seduces, and under every stone lurks an art handicraft that you want to marvel at
and take with you. Back then I felt (and still do
today to be honest) like a wide-eyed child in a candy store: I want to try it all! The market
bag made of colourful, woven material that withstands everything. Blouses and
coverlets that are embroidered with flowers. The Salsero from which the chilli sauce at the roadside tastes so good. Hand-painted rattles and piñatas out of which it rains sweets at
birthdays. Brightly coloured wooden animals by the Huicholes that are decorated with
hundreds of tiny pearls, which seem to
originate from an LSD trip. Proud, powerful suns of clay, metal, painted.
The Catrina and papier-mâché skeleton
performing a dance. The normal stone by a
street artist, on it a colourful wolf made up of fine brushstrokes.
My favourite souvenir is standing on my
table every day for 13 years: Drinking glasses made of mouth-blown glass (‘vasos de vidrio
soplado’). On the top edge a little spot of colour that adapts to your taste and a German environment with less of a peng! effect: A quiet
curl in azure blue, grass-green, Caribbeanturquoise, blood red. The glasses are for great
thirst and real paws, it feels like they fit half
a liter. Forget about the 50 cent ones by IKEA, ¡por favor! These glasses cost nearly as little but have style. Every glass is a bit different
by the handicraft and little bubbles in the
glass. Everything looks just marvellous in it: a Mexican homemade lemonade, water with citron, gin tonic, beer. What you shouldn’t
do: Pour in latte macchiato or tea. Crack!, and you have one Mexican memory less –
these handmade glasses don’t withstand
heat. Though the dishwasher and clumsy hands, they are robust and insensitive. The
only problem – they are heavy. Your suitcase normally may weigh 23 kilos. Better let one half spare while packing in Germany.
EVERY GLASS IS A BIT DIFFERENT BY THE HANDICRAFT AND LITTLE BUBBLES IN THE GLASS. 146
Mexican Bulldog Dearsouvenir drink
the limes and the
orange into a blender. 2.
Add Tequila, Grand Marnier and
Simple Syrup. 3. Use one of the limes
to moisten the edge of the glasses and then
dip them into the salt (to make salt crusted rim). 4. Add up to 5 cups of crushed ice to the
blender, blending after each cup, until the
mixture reaches the desired texture. 5. Divide
the Margarita between the glasses and pour the beer over the liquid. Make sure to be quick
to prevent the glasses from overflowing. 6. Add a cocktail straw; use lime for decoration
NOTE: Since this is a recipe from the US, the
indeed roughly equal the volume of an ordi-
nary coffee cup; or 235ml if you prefer a precise value.
measurements are given in cups. A cup does
5 cups of ice cubes or cru shed i ce (prefe rably the la tter) 1 cup T equila ½ cup Grand Marn 5 lime ier s 1 oran ge 1 cup „Simp le Syru (see b p“ elow) 6 icecold b ottles Coron of a beer Coars e salt Make
s 6 co
Market tour in Mexico city
text: Petra Fischer photos: Marioly Vazquez
Petra Fischer, a German native, has been living
in Mexico City for over 30 years. She is a freelance producer for TV and movie documentari-
es (focusing on Mexico and Central America). She bought and modernised two huge apart-
ments high above the historical center in the
early 1990s, the Centro Historico, which was
declared a World Heritage site by the UNESCO
in 1987. She lives in one apartment; the other one is for friends and family who visit her, or
she rents it out for paying travel guests or business travellers.
Booking apartment 150
You live in a dreamlike apartment high above
the historical center of Mexico City. When and how did you end up here?
I had worked as a journalist in Central America for many years. But then, when it became
unsafe to be there in the 1980s, I started loo-
king for jobs in other Latin American countries. The best offer came from Mexico. At
first I thought I would stay here for a couple of years and move on eventually. But the longer I stayed here, the more I liked it. And so I am still in Mexico and truly happy here.
One could say that you rent out an identical apartment to tourists, to whom you also offer
lovingly personalised tours through the city.
What is the most important thing to you that youâ€™d want to convey to your guests?
The contrasts and the unbelievable diversity
of everything this cosmopolitan city has to offer. Each district has its own charisma. You
can find anything here, pre-Columbian, colo-
nial or super modern: architecture, customs, lifestyles.
With my guests I try to find out what theyâ€™re
truly interested in, or what moves them. Then I suggest some suitable options, send them
there on their own, or take them where they might like it, or where they can have unforgettable experiences.
YOU CAN FIND ANYTHING HERE, PRE-COLUMBIAN, COLONIAL OR SUPER MODERN: ARCHITECTURE, CUSTOMS, LIFESTYLES.
MEXICO STADT MARKTTOUR
If you would send us away for a nice afternoon,
to see something, to experience something,
and to buy a few lovely gifts, which tour would you draw out for us?
A tour that would include typical Mexican markets. That’s where you can experience
the real Mexico, and each visit to a market is like a trip through the entire country, Because what they offer here comes from all of Mexi1
MERCADO DE COYOACAN Market
At the food markets you can see – and try! –
Malitzin 19 (Xicotencatl), Ciudad de México, Federal District
tropical fruit, strange vegetables, and exotic MERCADO DE LA MERCED 5
food (insects for example). There are markets
MERCADO DE MIXCALCO Apparel
chen utensils. And in markets like the Ciu-
dadela you can buy all kinds of handcrafted 9
Rent the amazing apartment of Petra Fischer
objects made from wood, paper, fabric, metal etc. It is the place to get beautiful gifts.
BAZAR SABADO SA
Eje 1 Oriente (Vidal Alcocer), Ciudad de México, Federal District
MERCADO DE ARTESANÍAS Flea Market
for shoes, flowers, wedding dresses and kit-
Anillo de Circunvalación, Venustiano Carranza, Federal District
Felipe Carrillo Puerto 25 (Entre Jardín del Centenario y Belisario Dominguez), Coyoacán, Federal District
Fray Servando Teresa de Mier 4 (btw Eje 1 Ote. & Eje 2 Ote.), Ci Federal District
Just a few blocks away is the MAP (Museo de
Artes Populares), an absolutely amazing folk
art museum with a wonderful gift shop, and
even more (expensive) choices in Mexican presents. If you visit the Ciudadela on a Sa-
turday, you can also go dancing with many other Mexicans in the adjacent park – that’s how they cheerfully start their weekend.
1 ©OpenStreetMap contributors, ©Mapbox, ©Foursquare
MERCADO DE LA LAGUNILLA
419, Merced Balbuena iudad de México,
KEEP IN MIND: DON’T GO TOO LATE, BECAUSE THERE’S NOT MUCH GOING ON AT THE MARKETS AFTER 3PM.
Dearsouvenir is the new Online Magazine that travels with you to the most wonderful places searching for the best souvenirs and memories to take home… www.d.com SIGN UP ON JAUNTFUL.COM TO MAKE YOUR OWN.
RE C IPE S
Sweet & Spicy Mexican Cole Slaw DIRECTIONS
In a medium
bowl whisk to-
gether all of the dres-
sing ingredients until well
combined. Add cole slaw mix and
1 bag Fresh Expre cilantro and stir until well combined. 3-colo ss ur De li Cole Adjust salt to taste. Refrigerate until ready to Slaw 1/2 cu p rou ghly c use (I like my slaw to sit for an hour or two fresh hopp cilant ed ro in the fridge for all of the flavours to develop). Dress ing: 2 tabl espoo ns fre lime j sh uice Yield: Serves 4 1 tabl espoo Prep Time: 5 to 10 minutes n whi vineg te win ar (allow extra time for e 1/2 te refrigeration if desired) aspoo n cum in 2 tabl espoo ns ho ney 1/4 to 1/2 te aspoo sauce nÂ hot such as Tap atio 1/2 te aspoo n kos her sa 1/4 cu lt p can ola oi l DEARSOUVENIR
Guacamole Liz Huhges
in half and re-
move the pit. Scoop
out the flesh into a medium
bowl. Mash the avocado (I use a
whisk) and stir in the pico de gallo and
lime juice. Add salt to taste if desired. Serve with tortilla chips.
Prep Time: 5 to 10 minutes (allow extra time for refrigeration if desired)
cados 1/2 cu p purc hased pico d e gallo 1 med ium li me, ju iced koshe r salt to tas te
Living in SoCal, it seems we have an endless supply of avocados year round. They are also incredibly affordab-
le. California produces 90 percent of fresh avocados consumed in the United States. I'm not sure why we are not called the avocado state! Avocado is kind of
like bacon - it makes everything better. However, I like it best in a simple guacamole. This three ingredient
guacamole is going to rock your world! It is so delicious and so easy, you'll be eating it everyday. All you will
need to purchase is avocados, pico de gallo and a lime. A sprinkle of sea or kosher salt helps bring out all
the flavours. The pico de gallo has tomatoes, onions, jalepeno, and cilantro. I prefer it's freshness to salsa. You can find pre-made pico de gallo in your produce section. Today when I got home from the store with my ingredients, my ravenous 18 year old son yelled out
"food!" So primal! Within 10 minutes I had him happily
munching on this three ingredient wonder for lunch. It is perfect for lunch, a snack or as an appetiser at your weekend BBQ. I pro-
mise it will be gone in minutes.
SMART FACTS Think before you buy!
It’s not unusual to
find yourself – cocktail in
hand – admiring the beautiful
plants growing at your recently ex-
plored holiday destination, wondering how
they would look and thrive in your own garden back at home.
So, sticking a seedling or two into your
suitcase between your dirty laundry seems a logical idea; and that’s not to mention the
beautiful and beautifully colourful shells and corals that are so hard to just leave lying on
the beach and of which one or two could so easily find their way into your purse …
At the market, you might buy multi-coloured leather shoes with an intriguing pattern – a
bargain! – without a second thought. However: Extreme caution is advised in all these cases!
Why? Because your enjoyment of souvenirs like these might just come to a crashing halt
at the airport’s customs inspection. Official statistics by the German customs office list
more than 118.000 protected animal and plant
species, and products made from these including cosmetics and medicine, discovered at inspections at 852 airports in 2014.
80% of the viola-
tions are perpetrated
unwittingly by travellers look-
ing for an exotic souvenir.
Mexico is among the countries in which the
more interesting finds by customs officials ori-
ginate. Some years ago, live parrots were an especially
popular item transferred into Germany. Nowadays protected
corals, cacti and aloe contained in cosmetics and medicine prevail.
So as much as you might like to take your latest holiday find home, make sure to check the list of endangered species under the Washington Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (www.artenschutz-online.de)
â€“ or you might find yourself faced with a huge fine. There is no
official catalogue of fines and each case is decided individually. A boa leather purse can easily weigh in at 150â‚Ź with fines up to 50.000â‚Ź being imposed for grievous violations.
To avoid any bad surprises at the airport we have compiled a list of protected plants and animals in Mexico.
LIZARDS Live/dead, Leather products, Hides/jewellery/ carvings
ELEPHANTS Hides/jewellery/ carvings
Live/dead, Leather products, Hides/ jewellery/carvings, Medicine/cosmetics/ compounds
Leather products, Hides/ jewellery/carvings Medicine/cosmetics/ compounds
CORALS Live/dead, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
GIANT CLAMS Live/dead
SEA HORSES Live/dead, Medicine/cosmetics/ compounds
IGUANAS Live/dead, Leather products, Hides/jewellery/ carvings
PARROTS Live/dead, Leather products, Hides/ jewellery/carvings, Medicine/cosmetics/ compounds
BOAS Live/dead, Leather products, Hides/ jewellery/carvings, Medicine/cosmetics/ compounds
TERRAPIN Live/dead, Hides/ jewellery/carvings, Medicine/cosmetics/ compounds
TARANTULAS Live/dead, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
WILD CATS Leather products, Hides/jewellery/ carvings, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
CICONIIFORMES Hides/jewellery/ carvings, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
MONITOR LIZARDS Live/dead, Leather products, Hides/ jewellery/carvings, Medicine/cosmetics/ compounds
Live/dead, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
Live/dead, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
Live/dead, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
Live/dead, Medicine/ cosmetics/compounds
L IVA R AR
How we approach a place of longing, what we do there, who we meet and anything creating memories that last.
LOVE 01 LETTER GAYLE TUFTS is
Germany. She writes and
produces shows featuring
music and stand-up comedy
in both English and German, resulting in her trademark 'Denglish' language in her shows.
Berlin is the ultimate mash-up: old and new, tradtion and innovation, high art and true trash. It’s a city filled with ghosts and dreams, history and
hope. A city that has survived two world wars, Fascism, the Holocaust, the Cold War, reunification and gentrification. It continues to reinvent itself on a daily basis. I once wrote a song about
it called "Stadt der Schwarzen Schafe" or "Black
Sheep Town". Three and a half Million heartbeats – each dancing day and night to a different drum.
My souvenir would be a little golden angel (pre-
ferably from a flea market and just a little bit fu-
cked-up) – like the one atop the Siegesäule, whe-
re I’m always reminded of Wim Wenders’ classic film "Wings of Desire" ("Der Himmel über Berlin") with the incredible Otto Sander and Bruno Ganz
playing a pair of fallen angels who have landed in
Berlin, shortly after the fall of the Wall, listening to the non-stop white noise remix of the endless thoughts, ideas and desires of Berliners – old
and new – creating and celebrating The Ultimate Mash-Up.
Germany’s fascinating capital has
become an international hotspot. Since the fall of the Wall on the 9th
of November 1989, Berlin (3.5 million
inhabitants) has undergone rapid and dramatic change. Just recently Berlin
became Start-up City number one in Europe. 28 million tourists come to Berlin every year.
Local time: 6 minutes 22 seconds behind CET East-West expansion: 45 km North-south expansion: 38 km Population 3 292 400 Largest lake: Großer Müggelsee Longest River Spree 45,1 km Highest building TV Tower 368 m
Berlin is so green! There seem to be trees in every street. List with parks in Berlin
Winters in Berlin are gray…
In winter, Berlin tends to feel particularly grey, standing on a grey River Spree under a grey sky. This makes the change that just a few rays of sunshine bring to the city even more remarkable. That’s when the people of Berlin spend as much of their time as possible outside – catching some sun at the Maybachufer (the canal shore) or on the patio of one of numerous bars and restaurants ...
HOW BERLIN IMPRESSES TOURISTS… People are drinking beer on public transport
Strictly speaking the consumption of alcohol is prohibited on metro carriages – just as it is in many other cities. Most public transport patrons, however, do not obey this particular law. BVG, the company running the Berlin public transport, is talking about enforcing the photos: rules more strictly…but so they have been for years. DEARSOUVENIR
MOST POPULAR SOUVENIRS PIECES OF BERLIN WALL Still popular with tourists they are not a recommended Dearsouvenir – it’s nearly impossible to prove authenticity!
TV tower motifs Berlin bear A ubiquitous sight throughout the city: We suggest opting for a Buddy Bear (a porcelain one from KPM) or a humorous cork stamp set.
No other building in Berlin has captured more designers‘ inspirations: The TV tower on Alexanderplatz. You’ll find candles, bottle openers, fabric, and baby rattles bearing its likeness.
Bottle opener with television tower
PARLIAMENT MOTIFS Dome - Umbrella
Brandenburg gate motifs Monument-shaped souvenirs may not be to everybody’s taste, but we think this Brandenburg Gate brush has definite merit.
Brandenburg Gate brush
LITTLE TRAFFIC LIGHT MEN Berlin natives might roll their eyes at them but they are a favourite with tourists: Ampelmännchen ("little traffic light men")!
from the Ampelmann webshop
MEDALS FROM FORMER GDR Popular Checkpoint Charlie souvenirs but definitely fake and not a Dearsouvenirworthy option!
All of this issues‘ tips
and much much more can also be found
in the Dearsouvenir
smartphone app – an
ideal companion when you’re out and about hunting of gifts.
So Berlin is over.
Katrin Strohmaier spends her days as a spokesperson for Photocircle, a Berlin-based start-up connecting photography and humanitarianism.
WG, they wanted to have a place of
their own. They had grown up, but so had the city – and all of a sudden, a
two bedroom apartment wasn’t €400 anymore, but almost double that. So
yes, says the nostalgic little man in our heads – it looks like Berlin is over after all. And yes, says the media, say
the bloggers, again and again: Berlin
r e i a m h o r t
S n i tr eu a K hn T : t x te tos: o ph
So Berlin is over. We’ve heard, read and – let’s be honest – said it ourselves on numerous occasions: while we were standing in line for two hours last
time we wanted to go to that open air club that only a year ago was still an insiders’ tip; when we went to that
new IPA place and a half pint was over
€5; when our friend came back tired
and disillusioned from house hunting, because after ten years of living in a DEARSOUVENIR
By that, we obviously don’t mean that
the world isn’t interested in the German
capital anymore: in February, the Berlinbased newspaper Der Tagesspiegel
proclaimed a record-high in numbers of visitors: with 28.7 million overnight guests, 2014 was Berlin’s most
successful year in terms of tourism
– ever. And just over a week ago, The Guardian published yet another article
about young Brits moving away from buzzing, yet unaffordable London, in order to try their luck over here. Many of them are here to stay: according to
the newspaper, in 2013 an estimated 10,000 Brits were living in the German
capital, and this number increased
by 35% within only one year, rising to just
at the end of 2014. Altogether,
new inhabitants were registered alone.
When we say “over”,
we actually mean exactly that: we’ve been discovered by the world, and
now people want in on the utopia
capital of Germany, was sliced apart
here, or while we were growing up
reunited, then “invaded” by thousands
that was Berlin when we first came here. And those people bring about
change. Now, one thing Berliners too easily forget is this: Berlin embodies
the very principle of change. It always has. Without it, Berlin would have
never become the open-minded, nonjudgmental work in progress that we fled our hometowns for (for many
people I know precisely because time
seemed to stand still at home). Berlin, on the other hand, lost its status as the
by a massive and deadly wall, was
of Germans and people from all over
the world, who saw the potential to create something new where there
was a whole lot of nothingness. Here, it felt, you could be anyone you wanted to be – and be accepted, if not
respected for it; you could contribute to social, ecological and creative innovations, turn your squat into a
club or a giant collective, or open up a little farm on a piece of fallow land.
Now, it looks like the tables are turning, the focus is shifting: squats and
communes have to fend for their lives, many of the new Berlin inhabitants don’t
anymore, and instead open up hipster
cafés and over-priced vintage stores
city’s GDP flows through the creative
enterprises and innovative approaches
than 4% is generated by research and
other sustainability-related challenges
than 70 publicly funded foundations
all over Neukölln. But look again: social
and culture industry, while more
to dealing with social, ecological and
higher education. Berlin boasts more
along with 40 technology incubators.” Together with those attracted by the (still)
spirit of the city, Berlin is growing up. And it might even have found a way to be different and self-sufficient at
the same time: Berlin isn’t running up debt anymore, yet it still is in debt, due
to decades of financial dependence
on other Bundesländer. And no one in their right mind can want this to be Berlin’s model for the future. It’s not an
anti-capitalist statement, a charming
part of Berlin’s refreshing “fuck you” attitude towards the rest of the world; are mushrooming in the German
capital. To quote another Guardian article from earlier this year “20% of the
And when I moved back to
Berlin after a couple of years
in London, I was, quite frankly, afraid
disappoint me by not being as cosmopolitan and vibrant
Let’s also not forget that Berlin has
as the British capital – only to be very
it from another part of Germany
more international (read: not European,
“original” Berliners have always had a
become. I’m more than willing to trade
those having moved from another part
long been a city of foreigners – be
positively surprised by how much
or another part of the world. Some
but actually global) the city had
problem with that fact (mostly with
a few insider tips for my city becoming
of Germany by the way), yet it’s pretty
But with all the noise around whether
Berlin from many other cities. It
is, in the best sense of the word, a
melting pot: of people, attitudes, ideas, languages and many other things.
or not Berlin is over, it is, of course, important to keep in mind that it’s not all about whether you mind
people caring about fashion now, or that you have to look for a new
favourite club; it’s also about chances – namely about who gets them and
who doesn’t. Compared with other European and German cities, Berlin has always offered a life in dignity to
those who don’t have a lot of money. And despite it still being comparatively cheap, Berlin is definitely changing for
the worse in this regard. According to a Deutsche Welle article, rents in Berlin have risen by up to 50% over the past
five years – and that in a city where 85% of residents are tenants. But it’s way too easy to just blame that on the
increasing number of people moving here. If you have a problem with this development (and you should), do something about it. What we need is
affordable housing being the law and salaries to rise at least as quickly as inflation. There are people who take to
the streets and collect signatures for public housing development
funds and greater public control of private landlords as well as housing companies – join them!
In her recent article “Is Berlin over?”, Paola Moretti concluded
resistance and the first love is never outmoded.” I think
true love involves accepting when the loved one is changing, if change is good
for them; and to help them address the challen-ges they will face on the way.
g u l
a n r ou j d n a r gs e n t i i r r F w s e a i h T th t n a e h M p t he lis t y h s w n lai ut p o x b e a le g n g o n tru e s m o o t s a s. h t r n i o l p r i Ber a ree h t with
n e f
UP, DOWN AND AWAY The
the runway, including the
now, they skate, cycle, sing, flirt, fuck, dance, sun and grill there. Urban planners from all over the world visit Why does Berlin
and wonder: a big nothing is the big
one and a half of which do
The current main airport is Tegel. It
Berliners love buildings that they can
housewives can read the chassis
have three airports,
not work properly? It is simple:
close as quickly as possible in order to use them in a completely different
way: cogeneration plant turns into techno
station turns into ballet location
(Radialsystem), crematorium into an art district (Galerie Ebensperger). The same is applicable for Berlin airports.
The world envied the capital – three
central airports! But as the Tempelhof residents were able to see the served whiskey’s brand, Tempelhof Airport
was closed first. What to do with such a huge area? Nothing! Seriously.
is quite close to the city as shopping number from the street. So, Tegel shall be closed as well – and everyone
already has plans for new types of use: a lake, flats, a place to study, Olympic village and – nothing.
The original plan was to heavily
expand the third airport – Schönefeld
– turn it into BER and then close the rest in 2007 (!). This all failed due to malfunctioning fire protection
equipment. They are still working on it!
And the world is wondering about this
fire protection equipment’s dimension – about the same size as Krakow? 179
Interview with s.w.w.s.w SchŒner WÆrs Wenns SchŒner WÆr. (German for "It’d be nicer if it were nicer”.) The name of this Berlin concept store inevitably makes you smile. And they do mean it! So we thought it would make a perfect tag line for
our first Dearsouvenir issue all about ideal small gifts from Berlin.
We’ve searched the capital high and low to find the most beautiful, most interesting and most
curious souvenirs available, and our way has led us to this store established by Nicole Bednarzyk
und Sylke Rademacher at Moritzplatz in the Kreuzberg district of Berlin in 2009.
interview: Annabell Ewert photos: Ashley Ludäscher
Dearsouvenir: Our main focus at Dear- city so in a way the theme has alsouvenir is on topics around "travel and ways been on our minds and actually souvenirs“. We want to alert our readers inspired to high-quality souvenir choices.
Nicole: Yes, exactly, not some Berlin
bear made out of plastic and mass-pro- What was duced in China. specifically?
"Operation 030“ about
Souvenirs from Berlin were one aspect
We’re looking for a decent alternative of it. We wanted to break with the
which is why we have come to your shop conventional view and image of Ber-
today. You have chosen an ecological and lin. Instead of focusing on classical sienvironmentally conscious concept for ghts and landmarks we took a closer
your store. How, when and why did you look at the brash-yet-loveable parts. decide to add a Berlin-related section?
Part of our research included working
You have basically said it already. We through statistics on green spaces in want to offer our customers a range of Berlin and the relative population, i.e. products we fully support and would square meter per inhabitant. In other choose as souvenirs on our own tra- words we calculated how much green
vels. We didn’t make a specific consci- space is available to each individual inous decision to add a section dedica- habitant of the borough of Marzahn ted to Berlin. We are both Berlin-born – and how that number differs from and bred and care deeply about our Kreuzberg. DEARSOUVENIR
6 1. Handmade postcards 2. Wallet "Wal" ("Whale") 3. The "Berlin" section at the brick-and-mortar shop
4. Gym bag “Fuchs" ("Fox")
Wenns SchŒner WÆr.
5. SWWSW – The brick-andmortar shop at Moritzplatz 6. Spoon "Honey Dipper"
results and processed them
in the creation of products like picnic blankets and stamps. Their design
incorporated motifs typically asso-
ciated with Berlin and thereby created a link.
What are some of the selection criteria for souvenirs from Berlin stocked at S.W.W.S.W?
Our priority is an ecologically and
environmentally sound product range, i.e. products made from organic
materials which have been sourced and produced fairly. Our stock comes (almost)
German (manu)-facturers. We also look for tongue-in-cheek products – we don’t like “flat” souvenirs. And we
have high aesthetical expectations which are also reflected in the look
Schnodderige der Stadt gelegt. Dabei haben wir unter anderem Statistiken verarbeitet, die sich mit den Berliner Grünflächen bzw. dem Verhältnis „Quadratmeter pro Einwohner“ auseinandersetzten. Das heißt: Wie viel Grünfläche steht einem Einwohner in Marzahn zur Verfügung und wie viel in Kreuzberg? Die Ergebnisse haben wir dann in Produkte wie Picknickdecken oder Briefmarken umgearbeitet. Im Design wurden diese dann mit den typischen Berlinmotiven vereint und so die Verbindung geschaffen..“
1. SWWSW – The brick-and-mortar shop at Moritzplatz 2. DIY set “Blom” for handmade paper flowers 3. Miniature stamp set “Berlin”
and feel of the store.
We’re looking for unique, handmade souvenirs; no mass-produced
how they connect to the product. Our
product meets all these
the Berlin skyline are a good example –
the-mill gifts, please. If a criteria we’re happy to add it to our shelves!
tea candle screens with a silhouette of
they contain all the traditional sights, shapes and motifs but they are presented in a unique way.
Has customer behaviour in souvenir
over the past few years?
Yes, we have definitely noticed a change. But we
think that is also owed
to the fact that more and more tourists now find
their way to Kreuzberg and explore the area around
What’s your view on classical Berlin motifs? Are those permissible or should they be avoided?
Moritzplatz where we are based. The Prinzessinnengärten and the ever-
changing sub-culture are a big draw. And while the tourists are here they also
We do use them ourselves. But it’s really all about how you feature them and DEARSOUVENIR
take their chance to shop for handmade Berlin souvenirs at our store. 187
It’s never easy to find the ideal souvenir,
maybe especially in Berlin. So here’s the Has consumer awareness changed, too? And have ecological and environmental
factors become more important in the final buying decision as a result?
Yes and no. Most tourists come into
our store because they like the look of our beautiful products. It’s not until closer examination that they become
aware of the ecological and environmental background. But this then even increases the products’ appeal and it’s
easy to strike up a conversation and share even more information. It genu-
inely adds value to the products and sets them apart from your typical ubiquitous plastic souvenirs. On the other
hand our concept is probably just a little too international to please proper environmental fundamentalists.
key question, I‘d like to ask S.W.W.S.W:
Do you have the ultimate suggestion for a souvenir from Berlin I should get for my best friend?
A new addition to our range is a decora-
tive cork stamp set called “I love Berlin”. The featured designs include The Brandenburg Gate, the victory column, the TV tower, a bear and a heart. It’s perfect
for a friend who’s leaving or just anyone who loves Berlin and wants to adorn
their postcards or scrap books with motifs that remind them of the city. The set is very light and will easily fit into
any hand luggage (even on Easyjet). It’s the must-buy item for anyone
looking to take a little bit of Berlin home with them.
SHOP Oranienstr. 58 a 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg firstname.lastname@example.org +49.30.432014-88
OPENING TIMES Mo – Fr 11:00 – 19:00 h
Saturday 11:00 – 16:00 h
The very best from Berlinâ€™s artisan manufacturers.
"THE BERLIN CURRYWURST MAKER IS THE PERFECT SOUVENIR BECAUSE IT IS MADE WITH LOVE AND LIMITED TO A SMALL CIRCULATION EXCLUSIVELY FOR EAT BERLIN. THIS IS THE ONLY PLACE WHERE YOU CAN GET IT. IT’S GOT A GREAT DESIGN; IT’S AUTHENTIC AND WILL EASILY FIT INTO YOUR HAND LUGGAGE. TAKE THE ORIGINAL BERLIN CURRY SAUSAGE HOME.“ Adam Mikusch –Owner It’s a question each and every tourist
in Berlin will ask at some point during their visit: What shall I bring my
loved ones? What’s the most original souvenir? What can I pack easily? What best captures the spirit of
Berlin? Well, anyone faced with this DEARSOUVENIR
dilemma can now literally take the taste of Berlin home. Off the beaten tourist
track, in courtyard 7 of the Hackesche
Höfe complex in central Berlin, an exquisite little shop is now waiting to delight your taste buds. And it’s not
just any food from somewhere or other, everything here has been handmade at one of Berlin’s best artisan food
manufacturers – a treat from the city’s "culinary underground" scene.
EAT BERLIN, as the shop is called most aptly, offers sweet things, sour things,
– something for any taste and any
budget. The carefully selected products
are all sourced and produced in Berlin. Proprietor Adam Mikusch – who also runs a small artisan food manufacturer
– explains why this is of such importance
to him: “We want the products we
sell here to be as real as the city itself. Berlin is honest, immediate and diverse
– and the products just have to fit with that.“ You won’t find mass produced
souvenirs in here! Mikusch continues: “We think of ourselves as a platform for the many small manufacturers in 191
opportunity to present their products to visitors from all over the world.“
The shops interior design reflects this
deep love for anything handmade. EAT BERLIN’s light and airy interior
was designed by the team themselves
and cut and sliced with a lot of love, dedication and elbow grease. Mikusch
has created a truly unique stage for the very best Berlin’s delicatessen manufacturers have to offer.
The store holds many favourites like "Berlin Mustard Sauce", "Leaf Gold
Salad Dressing" and the popular "Currywurst Maker" – a spice mix that
will help you re-create the famous
curried sausage in your own kitchen. You will also find "Arsonist’s Gin" "Emperor
Black Pudding". So whether you are shopping for yourself or looking for
a great souvenir for your friends: EAT
BERLIN’s carefully compiled selection will satisfy any taste and prove suitable
for any occasion. It’s the spirit of Berlin to take home with you.
eatberlin-store haus der feinen kost
EAT BERLIN Hackesche Hรถfe, Hof 7 Rosenthaler Str. 40 10178 Berlin
SHOP HOURS: Monday-Saturday: 11:30 - 19:30 h DEARSOUVENIR
HOLLY– A SELF PORTRAIT
HOLLY – Christian Breil & Claudia Winkler Christian Breil and Claudia Winkler
themselves to achieve its unique
Trier, a city in the far west of Germany,
as honouring the character Holly
or something similar reflecting a
studied at the same fashion school in
current look. As obviously suitable
but then met again at a club in Berlin
Golightly from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”
Despite the blossoming pioneering spirit in Berlin and all the different
ideas that were being realised there, they felt that a certain level of quality and elegance was missing in the area of fashion.
So it didn’t take long for them to get together and develop a concept
for a store which would create a point of sale for their own individual fashion design ideas: HOLLY (It didn’t
take much longer for them to find a
suitable space either. Alte Schönhauser Straße 4 now stands on one of Berlin’s unaffordable trendy shopping miles but back then it was a pitiful dark little Gaulish village at the end of the road.)
Claudia's and Christian's personal philosophy
their store which they refurbished
Hollywood style kind of glamour might have been, you’re actually
closer to the truth behind the origin of the store’s name in the field of
botany – the common holly, also known as ilex.
HOLLY’s claim is still to invoke
elegance, privacy, authenticity as well as beautiful film, music and design classics and their protagonists. But
the two house labels CHRISTIAN BREIL and CLAUDIA WINKLER do not trade primarily in evening wear but
rather set out to bring a cool and chic
style to women’s and men’s daywear that would take the place of the then prevailing brashness and a general sense of indifference in the streets of Berlin, towards fashion as well as
towards customer service in general. Their goal was to provide a place to
shop for fashion in an environment
not follow any trend whatsoever
the product and the customer.
tastes: "Anything we create we
that respected both the dignity of
except for their designers personal
Back then Berlin was and probably
would absolutely wear ourselves.
where such a plan could succeed:
we feel are missing from
comparatively low in 2002 but the
The collection avail-
high and there was a definite
pleted by a selection of
still is the only city in Germany
In fact, we design the items
Rents in the city centre were still
our closets." (C. Breil)
diversity of people was already
able at HOLLY is com-
motley crew settling in Berlin.
jewellery and fashion
and exploring, looking for new
experiences and completely open
to what they might find within themselves.
And thatâ€™s exactly what Claudia and
with their designs at HOLLY:
dressing them up as something they are not.
At HOLLY, customers can feel comfortable, relaxed and well
taken care of by Christian Breil,
Claudia Winkler and their designs, and just be their authentic selves. Authenticity is also ensured by the
fact that fashion at HOLLY does
q u a l i t y- m i n d e d and
designers from Berlin.
"Anything we create we would absolutely wear ourselves. In fact, we design the items we feel are missing from our closets." (C.Breil) Everything sold at HOLLY is made at
their own workshop in Berlin or at selected
especially in close-by Poland. Holly’s
appreciate the unusual
items for men with their
unique and pithy air of nostalgia
as well as the timelessly elegant and
equally unique day-and-night dresses
– quality, personal service and timeless support of the customer’s individual personality.
Even today Berlin isn’t "chic" in any
traditional sense but it is the city that retains the highest level of
genuineness and authenticity – urban hipsters, the growing life-of-luxury crowd and their ensuing bandwaggon
effects not withstanding – at least in Central Europe.
Christian Breil / Men's Outfit 2
The painter Vincent van Gogh and his chosen home, the south French city of Arles, inspired this bestseller. Christian Breil / MEN’S OUTFIT 1: The jacket “Liebermann” is a light wool jacket in a classical look that has not
been produced classically. The owner of
this jacket underlines his inclination to
poetry and gives a shapely silhouette
to his dreamy desire for art and nature. The painter Max Liebermann and his
summerhouse at the Wannsee were models for this design.
The trousers “Güell in Autumn” are the autumn variation of the summer trousers “Güell”. The Parco Güell by Antoni Gaudí in Barcelona is the
eponym. The draft’s silhouette and
The cotton batiste button shirt “Arles” is many details are inspired by a sailor boyishly playful in colours; clear and tidy trouser e.g. the front pocket slits, the
in detail; and cheerfully friendly in look. grown-on (not sewed on) waistband. The painter Vincent van Gogh and his The trousers emphasize the owner’s chosen home, the south French city of cheeky grin and his relaxed position as Arles, inspired this bestseller. a connoisseur. 198
Christian Breil / Men's Outfit 2
Designs like the sweater “Mein Prinz” result from encounters with dear and close friends. Some companions are simply worth this title. So, what would they wear?
Christian Breil / MEN’S OUTFIT 2: Designs like the sweater “Mein Prinz” result from encounters with dear and
close friends. Some companions are
simply worth this title. So, what would they wear? Maybe this firm sweater
made of cotton knitted fabric with a tastefully shaped V-neck insert. The neck
is slightly curved which is possibly due to more complex processing.
The cool farmer trousers “Matti” made of
firm corduroy go along with that. An old farmer of the designer’s neighbouring village was the eponym, his hard life’s
work was the energy and his pleasure in the simple and honest life in nature were the inspiration. The pen was directed
by Matti’s years as a young
man. Functional details, straight-on
and solid material.
A bestseller is the cap
“Roi du Pop” – inspired – not copied – by none
other than the King of Pop; namely by the
artist’s creative power. This cotton jersey cap is clear, objective, aesthetic
and timeless and can be
stuffed in any trouser pocket.
Loop chain “Irma” by the accessorize
label RITA IN PALMA. The
gold-plated chain is the least that this handiwork
shall hang on. The OCHI lace is made by a traditional
crochet technique that the
Claudia Winkler/ Dress “Bari”
young Berlin designer Ann-Kathrin
The dress “Bari” is made of a soft
Carstensen dis-covered by watching
Claudia came up with the idea during
helped reviving this technique in a
the city Bari is located. She wanted
IN PALMA sells the finest crocheted
modern and cool dress. A dress that
and lingerie. Everything made in
chequered new wool cotton mix.
Turkish women in Kreuzberg; she
an Italy trip through Apulia where
social project. By now, her label RITA
to create a timeless, elegant but also
colliers, chains, drop earrings, bracelets
always dresses you well and that is
also suitable while travelling.
Claudia Winkler/ Dress “Moonriver” The name of the dress expresses a certain nostalgia: the song “Moonriver” from the classic “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, Audrey Hepburn with her guitar, feminine but also cheeky and a bit
boyish, melancholia, elegance, grace, classical beauty. The dress becomes very
wearable and modern due to the pure cotton jersey made in Germany.
It has become a classic in HOLLY’s range
and it is available in many other colours
as black, blue, fir sprigs, cream white and olive. Every colour has another matching button from the 50s.
Along with the dress, we suggest
wearing a big cloth “Red Orange” by
Betyke. Media designer Betty Knoop
from Berlin designs the artful colour combinations in strictly graphic but also
whirring, flowing floral fantasy shapes. Her colour combinations expose the secret of painting: it is all about the
colour combinations. The pure silk or
silk cotton cloths come from Italy, are
printed in the Netherlands and hemmed in Germany. BETYKE is a European child from Berlin.
HOLLY SHOP Alte Schönhauser Str. 4 10119 Berlin +49 30 97 89 49 94
Online Shop facebook
U8 â€“ The Start-Up line in Berlin
So what will we take with us?
While most of the other features
in Dearsouvenir focus mainly on physical
items to take away there is a different side to
Berlin we have to explore: the new world of start-ups
and digital networks. We went on a trip along a metro line
along which many start-ups can be found: U8 (which also happens to be the line passing through the stop closest to
the COP offices). The idea was inspired by a start-up called
Setting; read more about them in our interview on page 208. So our top souvenir suggestion is downloading the apps of the featured companies.
The Factory – a former brewery – has
become the latest start-up campus, where some of the well-known start-
ups from, Berlin such as Soundcloud
and GoButler ,have settled.
2# Bernauerstrasse 3# Rosenthaler Platz
The Seed VC firm West Tech Ventures – is building its new Incubators project called "Flying Elephant" in a former store of
St. Oberholz is the hotspot for all
(It was used as a co-working
wifi and start-up-conversations are
the supermarket chain "Kaisers".
Mac users and digital nomads. Free
Space "Supermarket" before.)
If you go to "Mein Haus am See" or "Neue
Odessa Bar" on Torstraße,
it's not unlikely to meet a start-upcolleague from Mitte, sipping on a cocktail.
PHOTO: Cris Santos
4# Weinmeisterstrasse Hackescher Markt has become somewhat
a magnet for ad-tech companies. One of
the pioneers being Hitfox, whose office is located on Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße.
Across from the station, startup supportive
PHOTO: Cris Santos
corporate SAP has its Berlin office.
6# Jannowitzbrücke Immobilienscout24 and it’s
accelerator program YOU IS
NOW are just a few blocks away from Jannowitzbrücke.
Betahaus – Berlin king space and
for newbies to th
8# Kottbusser Tor At GSG-Hof on Adalbertstrasse
startup Locafox rented its office. The offices for eDarling, EyeEm
and Blinkist are also just a stone’s throw away.
A few startups have settled around here, including
Wunderlist, MeinFernbus and Wooga. A bit further
south, located on Museumsinsel, the newly opened German Tech Entrepreneurship Center (GTEC)
became home to Berlin Startup Academy and US accelerator Techstars.
n’s most known co-worpopular starting point
he city’s startup scene.
Several startups have found their base along
Paul-Linke-Ufer, including SumUp, MyMuesli and Amorelie. Closeby Umspannwerk hosts companies
like shopkick and fitengo. Kreuzberg’s Graefekiez is also known as the "Bitcoinkiez", you can use the virtual currency to pay for your coffee, make photocopies or pick up a vinyl record.
What is the idea behind your company? NKF Media publishes print magazines about the startup scene in Berlin.
Why are you in Berlin and not another city? The startup scene in Berlin is leading the way in
Germany, and is one of the fastest growing startup ecosystems in the world. This makes
the entrepreneurs and their stories exciting. I don’t think you can find something like this
The team of NFK Media
What does the Internet mean to you? Well…basically everything – since we write about it. But then again, we do old-school print. So we could survive one day without the Internet. ;-)
How important is fast Internet for you? What do you use most: Roaming, LTE, 3G? We like it fast. What souvenir would you bring back from Berlin?
A bottle of Berliner Luft – pure retro. DEARSOUVENIR
3# Rosenthaler Platz
What does your startup do? Setting does office leasing for startup and growing
businesses. The purpose is to provide a simple and transparent way to connect office seekers with excess and unused space as a flexible alternative to a long-足term direct
lease. Start-足ups, growing businesses, and entrepreneurs can lease based on their present condition. Officeholders
with excess/unused space can get savings by posting
their available office space which offers more options and connections to high calibre businesses and individuals. AD
Why are you in Berlin and not in any other
to explore, connect, learn and build. The
How important is a fast internet
city? Berlin provides us with the playground startup scene is booming here, and it’s a great pleasure to be part of it.
What does the internet mean to you? The internet is about empowerment and
transparency, combining these two elements
connection? Do you often use
Roaming/LTE/3G? Being in the
office market, we know the importance of reliable Internet
connections for startups, which can be a knock-out criterion if not
available. LTE, Roaming and 3G are all convenient technologies to bring convenience, which allow us to be mobile and accessible regardless of where
we are. Mainly, we are now living
in a world where Internet data is an essential part to perform basic tasks.
What would be the souvenir
bring about all together brings all sort of possibilities. Think of the world without Google, it would basically mean a world without
information. We’d like to bring digitalisation to a very traditional
buy it online
Daily routine at Amorelie â€“ Toys and Flakes
What is the idea behind your company? AMORELIE is a high-class online shop selling sex toys and tempting lingerie. We stir up
the outdated erotic industry with new, groundbreaking ideas and show that sex
toys are no longer off-limits and are part of an open, modern lifestyle.
Why are you in Berlin and not in another city?
Berlin has a great environment for
of customers, who shop on the
build up a great network here. Many
take your time without being
Internet. You can browse and
entrepreneurs and startups. You can
watched or disturbed. This is
creative and innovative people come
very important in our business
together to work on projects. Berlin
with sex toys.
also sets international trends, which makes it the perfect city for a startup.
How important is fast Internet
for you? What do you use most:
What does the Internet mean to you? Since
Roaming, LTE, 3G?
e-commerce, the Internet is the "basis
AMORELIE wouldn’t be what it is now.
of our staff members can’t work
important to us, because most
of existence". Without the Internet,
without internet. The most
We highly profit from the anonymity
common forms of Internet in our office are 3G and LTE.
PARTY HARD – 2 years Amorelie!
Which souvenir would you bring back from Berlin?
I am not a fan of typical souvenirs, like a cup with a little traffic
light man (‘Ampelmännchen’). I find a tote bag with a funny
print much more authentic and fitting, considering the (party) scene here in Berlin.
LOCAL t f a r C MAKER
text: Nina Anika Klotz photos: Claudia Gödke
Johannes Heidenpeter is one of Berlin’s eminent craft brewers – despite the fact that he has had no formal schooling in how to brew beer and only once used a recipe. He puts the “art” back in the art of brewing: he creates a new whole from many pieces – all of which fall into place at the end.
In October of 2011 he passed an
abandoned butcher’s shop in the
borough of Schöneberg, just a few streets away from his flat. He had passed the place hundreds of times before but that day something was
different: for the first time ever, the blinds were open.
"So I stopped and took a look inside. Every now and then an answer will
Both the walls and the floor were
a question. Suddenly you just know
clean. It looked really pretty. And
made to house a brewery. My brewery!
That’s more or less what happened
brewing beer with passers-by on
appear without you even having asked
tiled, everything was white; bright and
that something will have to change,
suddenly it came to me: This place it
perfectly alright just a minute ago.
I could picture myself in the shop
to Johannes Heidenpeter from Berlin.
the outside looking in, watching me.
“Wenn vor 300 When they brewed beer 300 years ago it would have smelled exactly the same. I really like that idea.“ Everything came together perfectly in my head. But I couldn’t tell you where it came from.“ Back
worked at a gallery in central Berlin and had only recently developed an interest in beer. "I had drunk it
before for much of my life but like most people I had enjoyed it without
thinking too much about it", he
explains four years on standing behind the bar of his brewery pulling a pint of “Heidenpeter’s Pale Ale“. 214
It all changed at Christmas 2010, “I spent the rest of my Christmas literally from one day to the next: holidays
The family is having their traditional about brewing” he continues. And Christmas Eve dinner when Johannes’ in January he attempted his mother suddenly puts two strange first homebrew. “I was looking bottles of beer on the table. mashing up my They come from a small brewery in kitchen and Bremen, the Heidenpeter family’s home town, and she has read an article
about the brewery in the local paper. Johannes takes a closer look at the label
which reads “Original English Porter“. What the heck is that? Not something he has ever heard of before! So he
opens the swing top with a plop, pours a glass and drinks. “I knew straight
away that this was different from any beer I had tasted before. I couldn’t
even describe the taste accurately now, it was malty, maybe with a hint
of caramel. The intensity just threw
me.“ When the rest of the family
retired to bed after dinner, Johannes couldn’t hit the internet. “First I checked out help being
the brewery’s website, then I read up fascinated by the on porter, the type of beer I had tasted. fact that I am doing Then I was hooked and spent hours something old and traditional
researching all the different types of – even archaic. When the entire place beer – and I discovered that you can started smelling of bread I kept telling make them yourself. “
myself: That’s how they used to do it. its way to the perfect place in one of When they brewed beer 300 years ago my works of art.“ And brewing works
it would have smelled exactly the same. much the same for him, too: "Individual components come together as a whole
I really like that idea.“
His first homebrew was an IPA, an India – the master brewer composing a Pale Ale, a type of beer he had not come master piece. He’ll look for a suitable
across before. He had found the recipe hop to compliment the chosen malty body and if they don’t quite make a online and it would turn out to be the whole yet, something else will be
first and last time Johannes Heidenpeter
added. Another type of hop,
worked off a recipe. He
or honey, or fruit.“
the process in a more
has since gone about
creative fashion - like
Johannes Heidenpeter studied
always been my guiding artistic
that’s basically what life is
about in general: You take one step
Kunstakademie Berlin. As an
artist he is particularly into collages. and from that step follows the next “Collages made out of ordinary things one.” And again that’s how it worked
from our daily lives, preferably those for his brewery. The Schöneberg shop that I just happen to come across location didn’t work out. Too expensive, more or less accidentally” he explains. too complicated. But the idea to own a “Whenever I might find an interesting brewery stuck in Johannes’ head.
piece of wood along the way I will He considered a mobile solution with
take it home and one day it will find brewing kettles on a cart or truck which
PHOTO: Helena Melikov
PHOTO: Helena Melikov
PHOTO: Helena Melikov
he would set up at the Prinzessinnen
in Berlin. That, however, was where
Heidenbauer‘s homebrew they invited
Gärten, an urban gardening project
and when he met the proprietors of
Markthalle Neun (“Market Hall No. 9”) a
borough of Kreuzberg. After a taste of
him to move his equipment into the
hall‘s cellar. Not only did this mean he had enough room to be creative, he 219
could also serve his beer right upstairs
– and at some restaurants nearby. And
It’s three years later now and Johannes
he did eventually decide to bottle and
bar. It’s Friday, market day. Last night
scale. He had to; the demand was just
at the market.
although he was quite happy with that
Heidenpeter is standing behind his
sell his brews on a somewhat bigger
another regular event, the spectacular
too strong to refuse.
with the entire hall full to the brim
Berlin Street Food Market, was held with the burst with people and
Heidenpeter’s “Thirsty Lady“ flowing
throw the taps in a constant stream. The light ale is his bestseller. His most popular summer drink is called Framboise,
pale ale. The German Pale Ale and
the American IPA are also popular. His creativity often takes him beyond
To be honest, until opening night at the market hall on 1 December 2012 I didn’t know whether anything I had dome was any good.
equipment soon, a fully automatic 5-hectolitre plant
we’ll be able to brew
5000 litres of beer per
H e i d e n p e t e r
the German purity law: He once used
elderflowers in a brew, another time
he tried his hand at juniper. At the
beginning he only sold his beer at his own bar – plus a very select few others
because he wears it. All. The. Time. Three years ago when he started out
standing ankle deep in the dust and
“Looking back I’d have to admit: I was quite
not have expected to be thinking this
but I didn’t know the first thing about the
dirt of the 100+ year-old cellar he would big this soon – or ever. On the contrary: Numerous nights – after a long day’s
work at the gallery – he spent pressure washing tiles wondering – and not
always finding an answer – as to why he was doing this. All alone and
naive“ he laughs. “I knew how to brew beer
other tasks involved: resource planning, cleaning barrels, storing raw materials, bottling and so on.
strongly urged me to do an internship at a
brewery before I started my own company, but I couldn’t. I was so driven, not to say obsessed, by this idea in my head of running my own brewery, I couldn’t let go. I just had to see it through.“
And then it all happened the way it always happens
Heidenpeter’s life: Things fell into place. “To be until
market hall on 1 December 2012 I didn’t
know whether anything I had dome
was any good. I started with three beers
on tap: Saison and two pale ale varieties. And low and behold: The people liked them. Somehow it all worked out. Just as things tend to somehow work how.“ laboring for something he didn’t know would work out sometimes he even
questioned the entire undertaking. DEARSOUVENIR
Where to get Berliner Craft Beer to take away / as a souvenir / or fresh on tap.
Beer Shop 1. Berlin Beer Shop Kirchstr. 23, 10557 Berlin
4. Getränkefeinkost Berlin Boxhagener Str. 24, 10245 Berlin
2. Hopfen & Malz Triftstr. 57, 13353 Berlin
5. Bierlinie Schliemannstraße 2, 10437 Berlin
3. Bierlieb Petersburger Straße 30, 10249 Berlin
6. Biererei Oranienstraße 9, 10999 Berlin
7. Ambrosetti Schillerstraße 103, 10625 Berlin
1. Hopfenreich Sorauer Straße 31, Berlin-Kreuzberg 2. IPA Bar Karl-Marx-Straße 195, Berlin-Neukölln
3. Herman Schönhauser Allee 173, Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
4. Monterey Bar Danziger Straße 61, Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
3 3 6
5. The Castle Pub Hochstraße 2, Berlin-Wedding
1. Vagabund Brauerei Antwerpener Straße 3, Berlin-Wedding
3. Flessa Bräu Petersburger Str. 39, 10249 Berlin
2. Hops and Barley Wühlischstraße 22/23, Berlin-Friedrichshain
4. Heindenpeters @ Markthalle Neun Eisenbahnstraße 42/43, Berlin-Kreuzberg
Frau Tonis Parfum
There is an unofficial Berlin hymn by Paul Lincke and it has been around since the early 20th century. It goes like this: the Berlin air with its air so fair. But what does Berlin, or its air, actually smell like? Is there even a typical Berlin scent? The perfume manufacturer Frau Tonis Parfums from Berlin Mitte has several answers to these questions.
text: Luisa Sancelean photos: Ashley Ludaescher
rator for our manufactured fragrances idea”, explains Stefanie Hanssen.
The fragrances are developed by Stefanie Hanssen and her business partner Christoph Niedermeier as well as experienced colleagues in Berlin and the French town of Grasse. The four scent
Stefanie Hanssen welcomes us to her
families that Frau Toni offers are citric,
the tourist hotspot Checkpoint Charlie.
how 36 selected manufactured per-
little flagons of Berlin’s scent anywhe-
not just one carries Berlin as a name.
is Frau Toni? “In Wanne-Eickel. Toni Lu-
mends “Berlin in a bottle” by Frau Toni.
small, all-white shop located right by
flowery, green and oriental. That’s
She has been making it possible to take
fumes Made in Berlin emerged. And
re in the world since 2009. And where
Even the Wall Street Journal recom-
ise is my grandmother and the gene-
The fragrances are just as diverse as
3. The shop at Checkpoint Charlie in its all-white purist style. Nothing distracts from the scents in their flacons
1. 36 exquisite manufactured scents at “Frau Tonis” 2. Frau Tonis’ “Berlin Summer” – a fresh scent full of energy
"Especially in Berlin, when then the sky is clouded with greyness from November till long after the Berlinale, you need a euphoriant pick-me-up.“ the capital is. The classic scent of the house, Berlin Summer, exudes a touch
of lemon, peppermint and sweet balm. Berlin Linde on the other hand is more akin to a stroll along the most mag-
nificent avenue of the city (Unter den
Linden). Berlin Bogota , with its touch of bergamot, fig and cedar, is a remin-
this vitality and you know, something
in Charlottenburg and unites our capi-
sen. “Especially in Berlin, when the sky
further through the row of pharma-
ber till long after the Berlinale (Berlin
de Berlin, Berlin Orange and 030 Berlin
se at the KaDeWe. And so how do you
Pure Violet. In the late 20s, this shrill
der to the now closed legendary hotel
shimmering”, describes Stefanie Hans-
tal with the Colombian one. If you look
is clouded with greyness from Novem-
cist’s bottles, you can also discover Eau
Film Festival, in February), you need a
– special editions you can only purcha-
Another fragrance highlight is the
describe the fragrance of Berlin? “It
fragrance was la Grande Dame Marle-
smells as young as this city feels. Al-
ways in the making, this lightness, 228
ne Dietrich’s favorite perfume. Stefanie Hanssen has revived the long-lost
1. Pure scents like violet and tulip are the trademarks of Frau Tonis’ company
2. Create your own individual fragrance at one of Frau Tonis’ workshops
recipe together with the Berlin perfumer Lutz Lehmann.
Among the buyers and lovers of manu-
factured perfumes are both men and wo-
men, lots of Italians, Americans, Spaniards and Scandinavians, the founder of Frau
Tonis Parfum tells us. But an increasing number of Berliners are becoming part
of the core audience. If you are interested
Frau Tonis Parfum ships
in immerging into the world of fragran-
the manufactured fragran-
ductory course â€“ whether individually or
ces all by yourself, you can take an intro-
ces worldwide via the
as a couple. Even your wedding fragrance can be created here.
ne Veilchen. Der schrille Duft war in
den späten 20er Jahren das Lieblingsparfüm der Grand Dame Marlene Die-
trich. Zusammen mit dem Berliner Parfümeur Lutz Lehmann hat Stefanie
Hanssen das jahrelang verschollene Rezept wieder aufleben lassen.
Unter den Käufern und Liebhabern der Manufaktur-Parfüme sind Männer
wie Frauen, viele Italiener, Amerikaner, Spanier und Skandinavier erzählt die
Gründerin von Frau Tonis Parfum. Aber auch immer mehr Berliner werden
zum Stammpublikum. Wer ganz für sich in die Welt der Düfte abtauchen
will, der macht einen Schnupperkurs
– ob einzeln oder als Paar. Auch der eigene Hochzeitsduft kann hier kreiert werden.
text: Luisa Sancelean photos: Claudia Gödke
LOCAL m iu z y el B MAKER
It was already morning when
of chocolate beans three years ago.
interview, they were setting up
because I think that it is good news
I entered the Belyzium for the
the table for breakfast – but of
course only with delicacies found in
a chocolate factory. There was cocoa
beans, the obligatory chocolate bar, a tartelette and a cup of tea, poured
from cocoa shells. “Chocolate is healthy and it makes you happy, that
is why you should start your day with
it”, chocolate evangelist Klaus Boesl
is deeply convinced. This good news is the reason why the Berliner-bychoice found his calling in the world
“I chose the term chocolate evangelist that our chocolate exists now. And that
is what I do in this shop – I explain to customers where the chocolate comes from, because a lot of people don’t
really know about all the different
processes and take it for granted, that there is chocolate on the supermarket shelves.”
Andrei Shibkov and Tatiana Bugrova
have founded the Kakaofrau GmbH, of which the Belyzium is a part. Together
with chief alchemist Eike Philipps,
1. Organic Criollo cocoa beans from Belize – freshly roasted every day 2. Barbados Caribbean rum with Belyzium cocoa 3. The roasted beans are ground into nibs for further refinement – or just snacking. 4. There is a small café at the Belyzium offering cocoa, ice cream and of course Tabu chocolate for you to sample right on the premises.
5. A favourite amongst chocolatiers: this is the Belyzium version of the chocolate truffle 6. »Tree to Bar« – the Belyzium cocoa beans’ way from their origin to the chocolate factory in Berlin is well documented
Belyzium Chocolate Manufacture
the four cocoa enthusiasts are
bringing the real and pure taste of chocolate to Berlin. The four
pioneers try to be led by the treeto-bar-thought. There are many
chocolate factories in Berlin, but only this one keeps the Belize cocoa bean
production processes under one roof. The Californians Andrei and Tatiana grow their beans on a 60-hectare big area in the Belizean jungle. Belize is a small country in Central
little bigger than Hesse. Cocoa long
These high quality beans are too expensive for
production, so a cooperative was founded â€“ the
founders joined as well. The cocoa beans are fermen
on site. The noble commodity is sent on a journey to
once a year. There they wait in a Kreuzberg warehouse
taken to LottumstraĂ&#x;e 15 in the Berlin district of Prenzl
The beans are roasted and crushed behind
nted and dried
Berlin, so that Klaus and Eike can offer their
one the two
Berlin exactly until they are
lauer Berg for
the small shop area. All of this happens in fresh chocolate. One could say a sustainable value chain come full circle. After the beans
are chopped in a grinder, they only add sugar, a little bit of cocoa butter and sometimes spices, to keep the pure taste of chocolate. DEARSOUVENIR
Which one of your chocolates meets the taste of Berlin, I ask Klaus. He
doesn’t take too much time to think about it: “The Nibs chocolate, it’s as crunchy as Berlin. Or the 100% one
without sugar – Berlin hard core, one could say.” And what else do they have in stock? “We start at 78%, we do not
have milk chocolate. From 78% to 83% to 89% and even 100%. As well as the
Nibs and our spiced versions with chilli, salt and pepper.” Klaus takes out
something very special from the frid-
ge – the Belyzium Taboo Chocolate
with a particularly low melting point. Granted, a somewhat unconventio-
nal manner of manufacturing, which requires a cool storage. It melts
1. Eike and Klaus‘ portfolio also covers a variety of chocolate-based desserts
most definitely an intense taste expe-
2. Eike’s title of Chief Alchemist is well earned: he oversees both the processing and the preparation of the cocoa beans
instantly at your fingers’ touch, but is
3. The company’s logo shows the cross section of a closed cocoa bean and is stamped onto each chocolate bar
recipes. There are gift
boxes with three selec-
4. Belyzium cocoa products are certified as »vegan« and »organic« as well as »gluten-free« and »fair trade«
ted chocolate bars which
you can buy for your loved
ones, who stayed at home
and did not join your trip.
If you need to experience the
pure taste of fresh chocolate for
yourself, you need to visit Klaus
and Eike. They are waiting to fulfil
all your chocolaty dreams Tuesdays
to Saturdays, 12pm-8pm.
rience, which, for logical reasons you can only sample in the store. But this is not all. Besides cocoa tea and rum they have chocolate ice cream, truffles, spread and cocoa beans in all shapes, tastes and forms – as Nibs, caramelized, or crystalized. And it will go on because chief alchemist and chef Eike is always working on new DEARSOUVENIR
Info Cocoa is a shadow plant, and grows naturally in the jungle undergrowth. The plant loves the humid climate in the thicket of the rainforests.
The Belyzium offers workshops that let you create your very own chocolate. Every Saturday at 4pm, you can register in the shop. Adults 37â‚Ź, eligible for discount 25â‚Ź, free of charge for children up to 13 years.
The name Belyzium is a mix of Belize and Elysium – the island of the blessed in Greek mythology.
buy it online
Belyze Elysium The cocoa factory’s logo shows the cross section of a closed cocoa blossom.
The Belyzium chocolate are also available in our online shop.
BELYZIUM Lottumstraße 15 10119 Berlin
OPENING TIMES: Tuesday-Sunday: 12 - 20 h
text: Elisa von Hof photos: Claudia Gödke
LOCALSpirited MAKER Ideas made in Berlin
Apple pie after grandmother
for kitchen emergencies has become
like great-grandfather Heinrich
100-years-old recipe” everywhere now,
Anni’s recipe, cherry punch
used to love, cabbage rolls from
great-aunt’s Lotte’s secret list of
ingredients. When it comes to food,
the known and the traditional seem
to be the best. Anything from our
childhood days.We would never dream
of doubting Granny’s waffle recipe. Because back in the day, on Granny’s
old corner bench, on Sundays, these sweet waffles always tasted heavenly
to us. Instead of relying on Lafer, Lichter, Wiener, we catch ourselves
dialling granny’s number real quick. What was the deal with the apple
pie again, Gran? Granny’s number DEARSOUVENIR
a real trend. One can read “after a everyone claims “a long tradition”.
And that’s a good thing. Grandmothers always
Something that has been abandoned
a little bit when it comes to this trend
is Grandpa’s moonshine. Another grain schnapps? “No thank you, I
would rather have another waffle.” Well, that’s a pity. A fine fruit brandy, a good liqueur, a gin or a glass of grain
schnapps made exactly the way like in the days Grandma used to dance on tables – that is way better than a slice of apple pie.
1. Grated liquorice from the fragrance bar 2. Smell test: vanilla, coffee, orange extracts 3. 150 years and counting: original boiler kettles are still used for distillation and maceration
PHOTOS: Claudia GĂśdke
4. Splendid specimen: Adler gin and vodka are amongst the favorites at PSM 5. Extracts at a glance â€“ inviting customers to test their sense of smell
Gerald Schroff and Prof. Dr. Ulf Stahl realised this. They thought about traditional spirits and revived the
Prussian Liquor Manufactory (Preußische Spirituosen
Manufaktur) in Berlin in 2009. “Products with a tradition, away from trends and hypes, that’s what we’re
interested in and that’s what we want to produce”, says
founder Schroff. The trained hotelier met his partner, Professor of Microbiology at the Technical University
of Berlin, Dr. Ulf Stahl far away from copper kettles and distilleries a few years ago. When the two had come up
with the idea for a company with old recipes, the days
of testing and trying began. In the end, they decided to bring the Prussian Adler Vodka and Gin back to life – just like during its glory days a century ago.
They found the perfect location for their company in the former "Research and Training Institute for Alcohol
Production”, founded by Prussia for the use of grain and potato harvest surpluses in 1874. Not only did all
PHOTOS: Claudia Gรถdke
1. Label manufactory: Even the labels are attached by hand 2. Extracts at a glance 3. Bottled: nut liqueur waiting to be shipped 4. Bestseller: Adler Dry Gin was one of PSM‘s first ever products
German distillers learn their craft in
Kurfürstlicher Magenbitter (Electoral
and spirits were developed here as
13 flavours are part of the range. And
this institution, all the popular liqueurs
well. Now the two men fuel the 150-year-old copper kettle between these brick walls in the north of Berlin.
Bitter), brandies und spirits, liquors in
through special collaborations, this is changing constantly. A herbal line was created through the collaboration with
When it comes to distillation and
the Michelberger Hotel: The elaborately
facturing processes, they try to stick to
taste, but are also pleasing to the eye.
well in the past. And business seems to
are working on a renaissance of the
“It is not our goal, to grow endlessly
(Champagne), Berliner Weisse with real
site. We want to stay authentic”, says
their product range over the past years,
spirits in the old-fashioned-looking
maceration, i.e. the various manu-
designed bottles don’t just help the
their good nose and what had tasted
Right now the gourmets from Wedding
be going great, demand is increasing.
cocoa liqueur and Spree Schampus
and to turn into a mass production
woodruff liqueur instead of artificial
Schroff. But still they have expanded
Not only can one admire the finished
added a few spirits to have besides the
sales area with its own bar, the macera
Adler Vodka and Gin.
PHOTOS: Claudia Gรถdke
3 1. Signature design: Bottles created in corporation with Hotel Michelberger 2. In the lab: This is where new PSM products are created 3. The heart of the operation: the 300+ fragrance bar
4. Not corny at all! German corn schnapps in an earthenware barrel 5. Nose job: Julian Machinek takes a sniff of fine herbs 6. One in 13: 13 different liquors are produced at the factory
PHOTOS: Claudia Gรถdke
tion and distillation can be watched
take their master craftsman’s diploma,
as well. Two trainees are now part of
they will all have to go to this small
Schroff and Stahl’s team. During their
manufactory in the north of Berlin – it
training as distillers, they pick up all
is the only place in Germany where this
the subtleties of the profession and are
happy to give visitors an insight into
And this is obvious to the visitor.
Chemistry lab meets witch’s cauldron
Julian Machinek, one of the two,
in this company, even the recipe
explains what is special about the Berlin
book from the last century is at hand.
company: “Starting with the herbs
Machinek starts his introduction into
and ending with the finished product,
the distiller’s craft and this Berlin
it all happens here, in one place”. It is
distillery’s secrets with a little tasting
not a given for this small company
– just like every creation starts its way
to train distillers. How special this is,
into the bottle here. 300 dried plant
shows the total number of distillers in
essences with sensory properties are
training in all of Germany, Austria and
stored in the fragrance cabinet; experts
Northern Italy: 17 will graduate with
call them -somewhat misleadingly-
Machinek next year. If they want to
‘drugs’. Liquorice, bay leaf, lovage, cedar,
PHOTOS: Claudia Gödke
orange blossom, juniper berries, yarrow,
Prussian Spirits Company handpicks
garden herbs are collaborating with
picked, maceration and distillation
or red sandalwood. Grandmother’s the exotic from the Far East. What
works together? "The more flavours are addressed, the more full-bodied it
tastes to us," explains Machinek. The
company's famous bitter contains 21
different essences, among them cloves, cinnamon, ginger, bitter oranges. The
distiller relies heavily on grandmother’s
recipe but mostly on his own palate. New ideas are valued as much as the
tried and true. “No computer can do this”, says Machinek. The team of the
the raw materials. Once they are
follow in the same manner as 150 years ago: In special units, the essences are
dissolved in alcohol and then stored in earthenware casks, which are no longer manufactured today. And this takes
its time. The famous Adler Gin, the
first product of the revived company, is stored for up to 8 months, before it
reaches its full flavour. The products are then bottled up and labelled by
hand. Granny would be excited, and so are we.
FARM SHOP AND COMAPANY GUIDE:
OPENING TIMES: Monday-Friday 11- 19 h or by appointment
Preußische Spirituosen Manufaktur Seestraße 13, 13353 Berlin
THE EVOLUTION OF FOOD IN BERLIN text: Yamina Haryono photos: Ashley Lud채scher
Food is forever linked to our identities,
Berlin is one of those hot spots whe-
se our identities are not only shaped
unique cuisine. Some “kiez” are more
personal and collective. This is becau-
by role, gender and other such things,
but also by our physical environments, the places we live in, the places we’ve
been. Food is one of the greatest, and certainly most delicious, ways to look at the relationship between people
re the clash of cultures has led to a dynamic than others, due to the “melting pot” factor of these locations. · bandwagon behaviour · “afraid of things you don’t know”
and their environment. It’s a way of re-
· l imited choice for food
ping cultural identity. Food is as much
· more foreigners settling in Berlin,
cording history, preserving and develo-
a part of our past as our developing present and future.
wishing for comfort food Driver for creativity and uniqueness
· the people in the food industry settling in Berlin
FOODIES IN BERLIN They value authenticity, creativity and uniqueness.
BERLIN - FOOD TOUR
THE TOUR JAUNTFUL.COM/G/-1XoFsZxOx
A 200-meter stretch of road, lined with
eateries that reflects the evolution of food in Berlin. You can find similar ex-
amples in other districts, but the Rosenthalerplatz area is one of most dynamic and well-known areas of Berlin.
ORGANIC GLAMOUR FOOD BAR Vegetarian / Vegan
Veteranenstr. 16, Berlin, Berlin
Schwedter Str. 2, Berlin, Berlin
COMEBUY BUBBLE TEA
Weinbergsweg 23, Berlin, B
LA PREMIATA DI Italian
TOUR GUIDE Rosenthaler Str. 31, Berlin, Berlin +49 30 93624515 www.comebuy2002.de
Weinbergsweg 25, Berlin, Berlin restaurantsauerkraut.de
this tour on a map
Weinbergsweg 20, Berlin, Berlin +49 30 44034144
Weinbergsweg 4, Berlin, Ber
NETA MEXICAN S Burritos
256 Weinbergsweg 24, Berlin, Berlin
Weinbergsweg 5, Berlin, Ber
THE TRENDIES 1. the general course or prevailing direction.
2. style or vogue. Nr. 4: Daluma (raw, vegan)
THE AUTHENTICS 1. of undisputed origin and not a copy; genuine.
2. made or done in the traditional or
original way, or in a way that faithfully resembles an original.
Nr. 7: La PremiataDitta (Italian) Nr. 6: Cafe Fleury (French) Nr. 5: ComeBuy (Taiwanese) (not on Weinbergsweg)
THE BANDWAGON The place opposite Daluma and Pre-
miata Ditta, offering “superfoods” and “organic food”.
Nr. 3: Superfoods & Organic Liquids Bandwagons are good! They validate the original concept that things are indeed moving in that direction.
THE UP-AND-COMING Offering a new variety. As people become more familiar with certain cuisines, the eateries can widen their repertoire.
Nr. 2: Gong Gan (pat bing su: shaved ice dessert, which is common in Asia but not in Germany)
THE NEW AUTHENTICS A remix of the authentics, sticking to known dishes but remixing ingredients.
Nr. 12: YumCha Heroes (Chinese) Nr. 11: NETA (Mexican) Nr. 10: Go Go Gi (Korean)
Nr. 9: Sauerkraut (German) Nr. 8: Gorki Park (Russian)
THE STILL-EVOLVING A constant re-invention with a hither-
to unknown final destination – food
conceptor Telse Bus’ newest project is just one of many such examples. Nr. 1: Organic Glamour Food Bar
What we come back with, what we remember and what may stay with us for a long time.
CURIO SITIES DEAR SOUVENIR
Canned Berlin Air – the hit souvenir
Do you find yourself missing the famous Berlin air and could really do with a good noseful? No problem at all! It’s available for takeaway now!
Filled with love and carefully sealed, the cans fit perfectly into any hand luggage.
They also come with a full list of ingredients detailing the common pollutants you’re probably craving and a manual for making “Canned Berlin
Air”, an essential entry in our Curiosities From Around The World.
buy it online
Good to Know: In the midst of an environmental debate some time ago, the popular souvenir came under close scrutiny from the EU Environment Commissioner. Why? Increased levels of particulate matter.
BACK FROM BERLIN with
NYMA Playlist about Berlin
I hope to portray Berlin in the way it feels at
any given moment. In this particular moment
it is raining, green, grey and beautiful. There are
IAIY DTR RA Soundcloud Mixcloud Facebook Twitter Beatport
people, progress, nature and much more than we
can absorb on our short ride. We're constantly traveling from one place to another but in the end what do we really remember of the journey?
It all goes by too fast. The time we wish to
have to digest the beauty of lifeâ€™s moments is often lost. With music we give ourselves these
moments, and reflections. Stealing time, to enjoy our memories and emotions and maybe
share them with the world. Perhaps we have
realisations; new perspectives or discover
something missed in the rapid speed of life. I hope you feel the Berlin-Vibe and enjoy this musical journey.
OPEN YOUR BAG, PLEASE!
Thomas Hermanns The travel-loving entertainment expert is a German TV-presenter, director,TV-author and comedian. He is known for his comedy-show Quatsch Comedy Club. Hermanns received numerous awards and is living with his husband in Berlin.
Where are you coming from right now?
I've spent a wonderful time in one
of my most favourite cities in the world: Mexico City.
What did you purchase there? I found this psychedelic rabbit made of wood.
Where exactly did you buy this? He sat on the shelf at Pineda Covalin – one of Mexico´s celebrated fashion labels. I was browsing
for some exquisite accessories as presents for my family – when this
long-eared fantasy creature stared at me all the time. Mexico is famous
for these beautiful Alebrijes so I decided to bring him home. How much did you spend? Something like 50 dollars.
Is this item of any personal value for you?
I love to bring home little statues
from all over the world. There is already a whole legion of funny
little fellows made of wood and
clay watching over us in our home. Most of them just found their way to me by accident.
Who will receive this crazy rabbit? No one specific really. He will join the league of lucky charms in our home.
Where will you put it? I think he will bring some hilarious craziness into our bedroom.
Thank you and have a nice journey home!
Kylie Minogue's Twitter Picture about her dearsouvenir from berlin
LAST BUT NOT LEAST
Foto: Twitter, @kylieminogue
Our Dearsouvenir From Berlin
buy it online
Our Inspiration from Mexico: The mexican home style living 272
down load Wallpaper Veneto
down load Wallpaper Mexico City
Goodies For you! Wallpaper for your Desktop
down load Wallpaper Berlin
IMPRINT Dearsouvenir – Travel- and Shoppingmagazine www.dearsouvenir.com Address
c/o Carry-On Publishing GmbH
Gustav-Meyer-Allee 25, 13355 Berlin
Wolfgang Macht, Theresa Neubauer
Contributing Editors (Text)
Markus Albers, Roberto V. Alvarez, Christian Breil,
Yasmeen Dabu, Annabell Ewert, Matthias Frings,
Yamina Haryono, Ira Häussler, Miriam Janke,
Veronica Fossa, Sabine Gruber, Elisa von Hof, David Lida, Patrick Kiurina, Nina Anika Klotz,
Wolfgang Macht, Mario Münster, Theresa
Alex Sutter, Christine Thürmer, Michelle Thorne,
Contributing Editors (Photo)
Bonninstudio, Claudia Gödke, Ashley Ludäscher,
Neubauer, Andreas Praefcke, Cristopher Santos,
Neubauer, Luisa Sancelean, Katrin Strohmeier, Gayle Tufts
Helena Melikov, Florencia Morán,Theresa
Antonia Sutter,Per Swantesson, Marioly Vasquez,
Contributing Editors (Food)
Rowena D. Giardina, Liz Hughes, Deborah Mele
Annabell Ewert, Marie Darme, Miriam Janke
Marie Darme, Helena Melikov, Theresa Neubauer
Helena Melikov, Bethany Walrond,
Yasmeen Dabu, Maria Foh, Ira HĂ¤ussler, Alexander
Claire Cunningham, Alexander Kords, Stefanie
Yasmeen Dabu, Marie Darme, Annabell Ewert,
Sandra Rothfeld, Laura Glabbatz
Carolin Wanitzek, Emma Block, Sylvia Dietzsch Kords, Elina Penner, Tanja Timmer
KieĂ&#x;ling, Amie McCracken, Tanja Timmer
Luisa Sancelean, Nadine Steinmetz, Antonia Sutter,
Dearsouvenir is a co-production of Wolfang Macht, Peter Bihr and Carry-On-
Publishing GmbH. Re-use of content is only allowed with written permission of
the pulisher. There is no liability for unsocialited manuscripts and photographs.
No liability or guarantee for accuracy, currenca and completeness of the information provided is assumed. All information is provided without warranty. Management
Wolfgang Macht, Peter Bihr, Alex Sutter,
Antonia Sutter, Luisa Sancelean
Theresa Neubauer, Antonia Sutter
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