DMR WINTER 24/25

WINTER 24/25

THE MAGAZINE FROM DAVID M ROBINSON

18ct white gold two 1.5ct round brilliant-cut diamond stud earrings, £25,900; 18ct white gold 16.07ct round brilliant-cut diamond flexi line necklace, £38,500; platinum two 0.75ct pear-cut diamond ring, £8,800 02

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WELCOME Last time we created a magazine like this we were celebrating our 50th anniversary. In the intervening years we’ve – like many businesses – had a reset and with our new batch of young colleagues have embarked on a new phase of our DMR journey. We’ve been learning, we’ve been evolving and we have been busy. We have completed a large refit in our Liverpool showroom which doubled our footprint, opened a new showroom in The Peninsula in London, relocated our Canary Wharf showroom to premises four times the original unit size and opened mono-brand boutiques for Omega (part of Swatch Group), TAG Heuer (part of LVMH) and Tudor (sister brand to Rolex).

Our newly refurbished Altrincham showroom is now establishing itself as the future of UK fine jewellery design, manufacture and retailing with a showroom that would not look out of place among the most innovative jewellery showrooms in Europe. We share a little more of this story on page 10. A further two new showrooms are in the pipeline and we’ll keep you posted.

We remain among the most respected independent family-owned retailers in the country and are pleased to report that the demand for our in-house exclusive designs, coupled with bespoke manufacturing by skilled artisans, remains high. Provenance is increasingly important – and who wouldn’t want to meet the goldsmiths in DMR’s workshops creating their new favourite piece of jewellery or remodelled heirloom? Our bespoke design team continues to listen as our clients do the talking, an ethos that we have always valued.

At DMR we recognise that our colleagues are the most important element of our business and I am so grateful for all their support. And so are our customers. We still work to the original DMR mantra “that while some companies will hand you a receipt, at DMR you’ll get a relationship”. Arrive as a welcome client, leave as a valued friend.

We hope you enjoy reading this issue of DMR magazine as much as we enjoyed making it.

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IWC PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC.

Portugieser Automatic 42, Ref. IW501705 Conceived 85 years ago as an instrument watch with marine chronometer precision, the Portugieser has evolved into a timeless yet dynamic paragon of understated elegance. A slimmer case now makes the Portugieser Automatic 42 even more refined, while double-box glass sapphire crystals showcase the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber with a power reserve of 7 days and the elaborately crafted dial in a new colour called Dune.

IWC. ENGINEERING BEYOND TIME.

CONTENTS

08–09 THE WORLD OF DMR

Exploring the success of David M Robinson from its beginnings in the 1960s to the current day

10–15 NEWS

The latest events and openings

18–25 BESPOKE

DMR’s craftspeople place their clients at the heart of the story, creating dazzling jewels that bring a vision to life

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26–33 BRIDAL

At the heart of life’s most romantically significant moments, DMR is on hand to craft the most exquisite and innovative bridal jewellery for your special day

34–56 JEWELLERY

DMR’s beautiful jewellery, showcased in this shoot at The Peninsula London hotel, is designed with great flair and created with superlative skill

58–67 ROLEX

A look at some of the brand’s finest timepieces and exploring how it is flying the flag for biodiversity with its Rolex Perpetual Planet Initiative

68–77 PATEK PHILIPPE

Discover the most refined and sophisticated yet understated timepiece collections from the last family-run watchmaker in Geneva

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CONTENTS

78–85 TAG HEUER

For more than three decades, the Swiss watchmaker has had a connection with Formula 1 driver Ayrton Senna – one that endures to this day

86–95 OMEGA

The perfect blend of performance and design, Omega has braved the face of the moon and the depths of the ocean. Here are the robust pieces that survived it all

96–103 TUDOR

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Known for its military and professional divers’ watches, Tudor’s accessible luxury is now on the wishlist of velophiles desiring its pro-cycling team’s special timepiece

104–111 IWC

Always a leader in luxury Swiss watchmaking, IWC’s Portugieser collection represents timeless, understated, modern design, driven by powerful movements

113–119 SHOWROOMS 120

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ICONS

Thirteen years after its unveiling, the Hopscotch Collection remains a dazzling DMR classic with a playful twist on elegant diamond jewellery, inspired by the humble children’s pavement game D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

113 DMR magazine is published by Show Media Ltd. All material © Show Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press.

All watch and jewellery prices are correct at time of print in December 2024.

Printed by Pureprint Group, pureprint.com

Michael Bodiam; courtesy of Nasa

Discover what makes the warm and welcoming DMR showrooms and brand boutiques around the country – and their staff – so special

All you need is love

From the 1960s, DMR has been celebrating romance and spreading happiness Liverpool in the ’60s: a still-thriving port, with a flourishing new music scene transforming the city, expressing modern ways of living and loving that resonate with a change-ready society. Feelings of optimism are on the rise and Bill Shankly, the famous Liverpool FC manager, is nurturing his team to success.

Against this animated landscape of a city in the throes of popular cultural regeneration, a teenager from a humble background and straight out of school embarked on his apprenticeship. David M Robinson, born in 1943 in the Garston area, took his first step on the career ladder training as a goldsmith for a jewellery repair business on Liverpool’s Hanover Street. Here, he learned his craft the traditional way, quickly acquiring the artisanal skills and techniques that would establish him as a jeweller

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of renown. He also attended night school to achieve his qualifications, going on to pass his trade exams to become a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. His creative success would be officially conferred with the winning of two prestigious De Beers Diamonds International Awards for his work.

In 1969, David founded his eponymous company with a shop on North John Street in Liverpool. As well as applying his innate talent – melding innovative design with exceptional craftsmanship to create dazzling collections – he demonstrated his business acumen by partnering with horology’s finest brands and grew his business prudently over the decades.

A number of notable achievements by DMR sealed its reputation. In 1980, David designed a piece of jewellery that was presented by Queen Elizabeth II to winning trainer Major WR “Dick” Hern at Royal Ascot’s King George VI and Queen Elizabeth Diamond Stakes. While

O P P O S I T E The DMR showroom at London’s The Peninsula Hotel R I G H T David is presented with the second of his De Beers Diamonds International Awards in New York City, 1969

A B OV E The DMR showroom at St Ann’s Square in Manchester, which opened in 1979 L E F T Queen Elizabeth II presents a piece of jewellery designed by David to winning trainer Major Dick Hern at Royal Ascot in 1980

two years later an exclusive pendant was created for Geraldine Rees, the first female jockey to complete the legendary Grand National course.

Today, DMR has five showrooms – in Liverpool, Manchester, Altrincham and in Canary Wharf and The Peninsula Hotel in London. DMR employs more goldsmiths than any other retailer in the north of England, and its workshops create collections of jewellery only available through its showrooms. These exclusive pieces are elegant and dynamic examples of original, contemporary diamond jewellery. Every design is timeless, and features intricate and considered detail achieved through master craftsmanship.

Across the showrooms and three standalone monobrand boutiques, luxury timepieces are also an important element of DMR’s portfolio. Working with Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, TAG Heuer, IWC and Tudor, some of the most prestigious Swiss brands, DMR features covetable gifts of time for men and women. In the hands of DMR’s highly trained sales ambassadors, along with the company’s master watchmakers, every watch is presented knowledgeably, its character, materials and technical information explained with expertise and enthusiasm.

David Robinson earned the distinction of being “the jeweller’s jeweller”. His son John, the managing director, shares with him and the team a passion for jewellery and timepieces. In the showrooms, he has witnessed emotional scenes from happy clients, their ultimate romantic jewel come to life in precious metals and stones, or as they fasten the Rolex on their wrist, or hear the heartbeat of their cherished new Patek Philippe watch. Unforgettable moments when a wished-for dream is made real.

The company’s ethos is adhered to now as strongly as in its earliest years: customers, who become friends, value DMR’s standards of trust, professionalism, honesty and integrity. These values are threaded through what is truly a family business. DMR is deservingly acclaimed for being an independent company that takes pride in its authentic, unique British heritage. Its success is the result of an original approach to craftsmanship and a dedicated commitment to the highest quality service. davidmrobinson.co.uk D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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NEWS

A B OV E A N D L E F T

DMR Altrincham has in-house goldsmiths who are happy to demonstrate the intricate process of jewellery making O P P O S I T E Guests experience the luxurious new Altrincham DMR showroom

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THE FUTURE OF BESPOKE

The recent refurbishment at the Altrincham store offers a whole new way of presenting jewellery, bringing an immersive experience in a luxurious and comfortable setting. It embodies the future of UK fine jewellery design, creation and retailing. In the way that contemporary fine dining often presents both chef and kitchen on view in a restaurant so diners can watch their food being prepared, the talented craftspeople are on hand, based in the in-store workshop, bringing to clients all the talent that goes into making DMR jewellery.

Showcasing the rare and traditional skills of the master goldsmiths, from hand-forging engagement rings to the exquisite art of micro stone setting, the goldsmiths’ work can be viewed up-close or via screens so no detail is missed. Everything is carried out on the shop floor, allowing clients to engage with the bespoke experience within the elegant showroom environment.

At the heart of the boutique is the new design room, where jewellery designers guide clients through the creative process, whether for a new bespoke piece, or

the remodelling of a treasured heirloom. ‘The new showroom is designed to show our clients the full journey of design, from the initial concept and seed of an idea through to the goldsmiths completing the creation,’ says in-house jewellery designer Vix Smith. ‘My design studio is situated in the showroom so customers can wander through to see what new designs are being created and chat about the design process. The walls are covered with original design artwork, so they can see how the design process progresses forwards to the finished item.’

Alex Pritchard, master goldsmith at Altrincham, says it’s unusual for clients to see jewellery being made at close range. ‘Here, they can see all the processes involved,’ he says. ‘We start with a square bar of gold or platinum and take it all the way through to the finished set item. Quite uniquely, we make as much as we can on-site because we have the talent and facilities to do so.’

Clients are also fascinated by the tools. ‘We have precision microscopes for micro-setting and laser welders for more complicated pieces but many of our tools are similar to those in ancient times,’ Alex says.

‘They are also very personal. For example, I have two pairs of tweezers that I simply cannot work without. Even the workbenches take on individual characteristics – the jutting part that we lean on and hold our work on are all different, shaped by the way each goldsmith works.’

Vix adds, ‘It helps our clients understand and experience how much time and expertise is involved in every aspect of making the jewellery.’

To celebrate the relaunch, DMR was delighted to invite a selection of valued clients to the new showroom on 19 and 20 June 2024. Over two evenings, guests enjoyed the soothing sounds of a string quartet while experiencing first-hand the intricate expertise that goes into making a piece of jewellery.

14 Railway Street, Altrincham WA14 2RE

A B OV E Panellists including Dr Mary Wilson and BBC’s Sally Nugent host a talk on women’s wellness for guests at DMR’s lunch L E F T DMR panellists: menopause coach Emma Neville with journalist and Elle Sera founder Elissa Corrigan

TOGETHER FOR CHANGE

In September, DMR hosted a “DMR Wellbeing & Her” ladies’ lunch at Tender restaurant in Manchester’s Stock Exchange Hotel in aid of the Build to Beat Breast Cancer Appeal. An incredible £4,000 was raised to fund a new National Breast Imaging Academy training facility. To donate or find out more, visit mftcharity.org.uk D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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NEWS

TO A TEE

Golf has been the game du jour at DMR’s TAG Heuer boutique at Liverpool ONE following the opening of the store’s Simulator room. Former English pro-golfer and Merseyside local Nick Dougherty offered one-to-one coaching to clients before an informative Q&A with DMR director Karl Irwin. Following this, the first-ever ambassador event DMR has held at a boutique, came the TAG Heuer Ladies Golf Event. Held on 7 March, it showcased the TAG Heuer Connected Golf timepieces and gave female golfing clients the chance to experience the Golf Simulator room with tips and advice from local golf pro Georgia Ball.

KEEPING WATCH

A B OV E At DMR’s Liverpool TAG Heuer boutique, female golf enthusiasts are shown the latest TAG Heuer Connected Golf watch L E F T Chef Simon Rimmer with local former pro-golfer Nick Dougherty at the TAG Heuer boutique in Liverpool

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To celebrate Manchester’s industrious past and Tudor’s Born to Dare ethos, DMR’s Tudor boutique held a special event at the Science and Industry Museum on 12 June for close to 150 clients. Guests were entertained with lively music from a DJ and could try delicious cocktails while enjoying the 2024 Novelty Collection on display.

THE ART OF HOROLOGY

DMR was proud to host three Rolex events around the UK this October to unveil the luxury watchmaker’s exciting new 2024 collection alongside an exquisite array of David M Robinson jewellery.

Notably, guests in London attended the iconic Serpentine Gallery in Kensington Gardens to explore the new 2024 collection while enjoying classic british fare from chef Tom Sellers of two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Story.

Similar events at the majestic Hallé St Peter’s in Manchester and the historic Liverpool Town Hall, saw guests enjoy an after-dinner speech from adventurer Jessica Hepburn.

A B OV E , F R O M TO P

JÜrgen Klopp at DMR’s Rolex event in Liverpool; the event was also held at London’s Serpentine Gallery L E F T Chef Tom Sellers of Restaurant Story serves up a Michelinstarred feast for guests at the event

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NEWS

BEST IN SHOW

A B OV E Guests at DMR’s IWC watchmaker event enjoy a delicious lunch L E F T This moneycan’t-buy experience gave clients the chance to take part in a watchmaking masterclass from IWC

MASTERS OF TIME

On 2 and 3 October, DMR hosted an IWC watchmaker at its Liverpool and Manchester showrooms offering a money-can’t-buy watchmaking experience. Guests were treated to lunchtime and evening masterclass in all things horology, designed especially for a select group of IWC enthusiasts.

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To showcase some of the finest Patek Philippe watches in equally exquisite surroundings, DMR held a special VIP dinner at the two-Michelin-starred Brooklands by Claude Bosi restaurant on the top floor of the prestigious Peninsula London hotel in Belgravia on 19 September. An expert watchmaker demonstrated the savoir faire and inner workings of a travelling collection of Patek Philippe timepieces to a 160-strong audience of discerning horophiles. Across town, in a private dining room in Scott’s Mayfair, an exclusive guest-list enjoyed a ladies’ lunch in honour of the Genevan luxury watch manufacturer, while viewing the latest collection.

L E F T The prestigious Peninsula London hotel in Belgravia, home to a new DMR showroom B E LOW The Peninsula hotel DMR boutique showcases DMR’s fine jewellery range alongside a curation of one-off timepieces and pre-owned watch collections

A JEWEL IN BELGRAVIA

DMR is thrilled to announce the opening of its second showroom boutique in London, at the world-class Peninsula London hotel in Grosvenor Place. Complete with plush furnishings and soft lighting, the refined and inviting boutique is run by manager Bale Sekulceska and her team, who provide the friendly, knowledgeable service DMR customers have come to expect.

‘We are delighted to be working in partnership with our friends at The Peninsula London,’ says John Robinson, managing director of DMR. ‘We look forward to welcoming clients from around the UK.’ As one of nine luxury boutiques making up the hotel’s 1,000-sq m ground-floor retail arcade, the elegant showroom displays the best of DMR’s exquisite jewellery collections alongside one-off pieces, pre-owned watch collections from Patek Philippe and Rolex, stunning engagement rings and special timepieces chosen specifically for the Peninsula London boutique.

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IWC PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH.

Portugieser Chronograph, Ref. IW371625 Conceived 85 years ago as an instrument watch with marine chronometer precision, the Portugieser is a timeless yet dynamic paragon of understated elegance. And now, for the first time, the Chronograph, with its distinctive, vertically organised totalizers for optimum legibility, features an elaborately crafted dial in the colour Obsidian.

IWC . E N G I N E E R I N G B E YO N D TI M E .

JEWELLERY 18 — BESPOKE Creating a one-of-a-kind jewellery piece is a personal, collaborative journey of skill and craftsmanship at David M Robinson 26 — BRIDAL From beautiful diamonds to an heirloom reimagined, DMR will add a touch of magic to the most significant moments in your life 34 — GALLERY Discover exquisite pieces from the DMR collection photographed at The Peninsula London hotel – one of the capital’s most prestigious addresses and home to a DMR showroom that promises a warm welcome D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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BESPOKE

HEIRLOOM HEROES – In a world brimming with mass-produced adornments, owning a piece of jewellery that tells a story unique to you has real allure. It transcends the conventional and becomes a celebration of a personal moment sealed in time. The craftsmanship involved in making a bespoke jewel is a key part of the collaboration between clients and the David M Robinson team

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WORDS Alexandra Zagalsky P HOTOGRAP HY Michael Bodiam

Since its founding in 1969, David M Robinson has upheld a legacy of excellence by safeguarding traditional goldsmithing techniques while using today’s latest technologies to drive innovation and expand design boundaries. At its three main jewellery workshops – in Greater Manchester, Cheshire and Liverpool – the in-house designers, master goldsmiths and gem-setters specialise in crafting one-off bespoke pieces that narrate personal stories and capture the essence of individual preferences and aspirations.

As a family-owned business, DMR aims to build strong, enduring relationships with customers. When clients are welcomed into the design process and included from start to finish, it gives them a truly joyful experience. There is something deeply personal about working to make someone’s vision a reality, capturing individual meaning in a piece crafted just for them.

‘The bespoke journey begins with a consultation, during which clients can express their ideas and inspirations guided by an expert. “You talk, we listen” is our mantra,’ says DMR jewellery designer Vix Smith. More than just a discussion, this face-to-face brainstorming meeting covers a wide range of topics, including favourite metal types, setting shapes, size, cut and colour of gemstones, as well as motifs and aesthetic styles, be it abstract, geometric, vintage-inspired, minimalist or romantic in spirit. This collaborative approach ensures that unique qualities are infused into the design from the start, whether the piece is being conceived from scratch or remodelled from a treasured heirloom, either restored with a modern twist or completely transformed into something fresh and new. Detailed sketches and technical drawings bring these preferences to life on paper, allowing clients to see how colour, proportion and size will come together on their chosen silhouette. Going forward, CAD software and 3D models provide an accurate understanding of the finished jewel, allowing clients to see their custom piece from multiple angles and inspect design details at close range, before the forging, setting and gold-finishing processes are undertaken by the in-house goldsmiths, using their wealth of experience to expert effect.

The newly renovated showroom in Altrincham offers a fresh and unparalleled experience in luxury jewellery shopping. Now a creative hub dotted with display cases dedicated to the latest fine jewellery collections, the showroom also features an in-store workshop where you can watch the virtuosic skill of the master goldsmiths at work. Engagement and bridal specialists are also on hand, as well as in-house designers based in a brandnew studio room. And if you can’t be there in person, the team will film footage of your piece being made to immerse you in the creative adventure.

‘It’s rare to be able to show a customer exactly where their piece of jewellery is being produced,’ says on-site Altrincham goldsmith Alex Pritchard. ‘The addition of video cameras streaming to a TV in the workshop gives anyone watching from the showroom an extreme close-up of even the smallest details and processes.

Seeing how interested customers are in what we do is amazing; it allows us to showcase this unique skill in a way that’s seldom seen elsewhere.’

‘The bespoke journey begins with a consultation, during which clients can express their ideas and inspirations guided by an expert. “You talk, we listen” is our mantra.’ Vix Smith, jewellery designer, DMR

P R E V I O U S PAG E A N D T H E S E PAG E S

DMR’s jewellers use their expertise to transform ideas into unique personal pieces D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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Each piece is magical because it is activated by the special connectivity that exists between designer, maker and client

P R E V I O U S PAG E Clients are able to watch each step of the DMR on-site goldsmiths bringing their creations to life T H I S PAG E The DMR workshops employ handcrafted methods to create beautiful one-off designs out of precious metals

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DMR’s goldsmithing techniques – which include the melting, forging, casting, soldering, filing, engraving and polishing of precious metals – have been employed by craftspeople since Roman times, but its artisans also use lasers and state-of-the-art microscopes for microsetting and welding, enabling them to achieve even more intricate designs than they could by hand.

‘It is always important to keep progressing while maintaining traditional skills and knowledge,’ explains DMR jewellery designer Bethany Hancock. ‘Our clients love the option of having a 3D-printed model made in-house, since it allows them to inspect every aspect of their new treasure before it is cast in a metal. We also offer in-house diamond testing, a crucial part of verifying a stone’s authenticity. Our wealth of knowledge and experience with diamonds and gemstones gives us confidence working with such a variety of bespoke pieces, be it a fully handmade ring or a necklace that incorporates sentimental gold and heritage stones.’

Recent trends have seen a shift towards certain signature styles in custom-made earrings, neckwear and wristwear. The Georgian setting, reminiscent of a miniature bezel, has gained popularity for its ability to enhance the shape of a stone, offering a beautiful alternative design that’s timeless yet visually impactful with a hint of avant-garde flair. There’s also a growing fascination with exceptional coloured gemstones such as Paraíba tourmalines, originally discovered in Brazil, which captivate with their stunning colours caused by traces of copper within the crystal structure. Accents of rose gold and rare pink diamonds add special and romantic details to one-of-a-kind commissions, reflecting a desire for pieces that are as unique as they are exquisite.

Ultimately, a custom-made piece is a canvas for personal expression, one that seals a moment in time and forever engages the senses. Bethany says it best: ‘Each piece is magical because it is activated by the special connectivity that exists between designer, maker and client. We strive to capture as many personal elements of a person’s story in our custom-made commissions as possible, and this is such a rare and wonderful expertise to have within our company.’

Ultimately, a custom-made piece is a canvas for personal expression, one that seals a moment in time and forever engages the senses

T H I S PAG E , R I G H T Designs are worked up in the studio on paper for each bespoke piece. B E LOW The Altrincham Design Room ahead of a private event

B R I DA L

I DO – A reputation for crafting beautiful and innovatively designed diamond jewellery makes DMR a trusted destination for bridal pieces, with a warm welcome guaranteed. For the most romantic and personally significant moments in your life, DMR is on hand to offer advice, whether your desire is for a bespoke design, an exquisite piece from the DMR collections, or a family heirloom that you’d like remodelling in a contemporary style

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P H OTO G R A P H Y Michael Bodiam S E T D E S I G N Paulina Piipponen

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P R E V I O U S PAG E Platinum ring with two 1.20ct pear-cut diamonds and 0.54ct round brilliant shoulder diamonds, £22,500, Ditto™ A B OV E 18ct yellow gold 1ct pear-cut diamond on curved diamond set band, £11,000, with matching curved diamond set band, £1,700 O P P O S I T E 0.70ct pear-cut fancy intense yellow diamond platinum ring, £9,100, Ditto™

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O P P O S I T E 18ct yellow gold 1.02ct oval-cut diamond solitaire on curved band, £12,400, with matching diamond set band, £2,600 R I G H T Platinum 2ct pear-cut ring with 0.34ct round brilliant-cut diamond band, £50,600 B E LOW 18ct yellow gold 2ct bezel set pear-cut diamond ring, £11,100, with matching diamond set band, £2,400

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O P P O S I T E 18ct yellow gold 1.01ct Marquise-cut solitaire ring with diamond set shoulders, £11,200, and matching diamond set band, £1,000 A B OV E 18ct yellow gold bezel set oval-cut diamond solitaire ring, £7,800, with 18ct yellow gold diamond-set, £950, and plain polished bands, £550

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G A L L E RY

A FINE ROMANCE – Luxurious and beautiful DMR jewellery will always enhance sophisticated eveningwear and elevate casualwear with its inspirational designs, superlative craftsmanship and precious materials. The pieces showcased over the following pages, shot at the refined The Peninsula London hotel, feature the contemporary yet timeless style of the dazzling diamond jewels, guaranteed to turn heads

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P H OTO G R A P H Y Amie Milne ST Y L I N G Thea Lewis-Yates

P R E V I O U S PAG E 18ct white gold, diamond and sapphire long drop earrings, £55,000; 18ct white gold, diamond and sapphire collar, £117,000, High Jewellery Collection; platinum, 6.6ct sapphire and diamond ring, £98,500, High Jewellery Collection. ABOVE 18ct yellow gold diamond wraparound ring, £1,500 and 18ct yellow gold three-stone diamond dress ring, £4,100, both Hopscotch™; 18ct yellow gold pear-cut diamond four-strand dress ring, £7,600. OPPOSITE 18ct white gold and pear-cut diamond huggies, £5,700, Pearfection™; 18ct white gold pear-cut diamond pendant, £31,000 and 18ct white gold pear-cut diamond bangle, £10,900, both Ditto™; 18ct white gold pear-cut diamond torque ring, £5,900, Pearfection™; platinum and pear-cut diamond two-stone ring, £22,500, Ditto™

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18ct white gold 4.84ct necklace, £19,000, Opera™; 18ct white gold 3.09ct earrings, £7,900, Opera™; platinum 6.13ct oval full eternity ring, £30,000; 18ct white gold 16.10ct round brilliant-cut bracelet, £50,000; platinum 23.51ct emerald-cut diamond bracelet, £120,000

A B OV E Platinum, diamond and black onyx solitaire ring, £40,000, Signature. O P P O S I T E 18ct yellow gold diamond three-stone earrings, £10,700, 18ct yellow gold diamond necklace, £68,000, 18ct yellow gold diamond bracelet, £33,000, 18ct yellow gold diamond wraparound ring, £1,500 and 18ct yellow gold diamond seven-stone dress ring, £20,000, all Hopscotch™

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THIS PAGE 18ct yellow gold diamond large circle pendant, £18,900 and 18ct yellow gold diamond medium circle pendant, £6,300, both Hopscotch™. OPPOSITE Platinum pearcut diamond studs, £19,500; 18ct white gold pear-cut diamond collar, £12,000

ABOVE 18ct yellow gold diamond bracelet, £33,000; 18ct yellow gold seven-stone diamond dress ring, £20,000. OPPOSITE Platinum pear-cut diamond studs, £19,500, Diamond Classics; 18ct yellow gold and platinum diamond cluster ring, £27,200, Carat Collection

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‘DMR and The Peninsula hotel is a perfect partnership. We share the same family values, always going the extra mile for our customers and guests; memorable moments, memorable stays.’

J O H N R O B I N S O N , M A N AG I N G D I R EC TO R , D M R

18ct yellow gold diamond small disc drop earrings, £3,500, 18ct yellow gold diamond large disc pendant with 24” chain, £8,000 and 18ct yellow gold disc ring, £1,200, all Alba™

A B OV E 18ct yellow gold diamond bangle, £21,500 and 18ct yellow gold diamond dress ring, £20,000, both Hopscotch™. O P P O S I T E Platinum pear-cut diamond studs, £19,500; 18ct yellow gold with yellow and white pear-cut diamond collar, £65,500; 18ct yellow gold with yellow and white pear-cut diamond line bracelet, £18,900; 18ct yellow gold pear-cut yellow diamond cluster ring, £27,200

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A B OV E 18ct yellow gold diamond solitaire pendant and chain, £83,800; 18ct yellow gold hook-fitting bangle, £2,700; 18ct yellow gold Alina 1.20ct oval-cut diamond solitaire ring, £9,400; 18ct yellow gold diamond eternity ring, £3,600. OPPOSITE 18ct rose gold pear-cut diamond hoops, £27,500; 18ct rose gold pear-cut diamond pendant, £13,400, Petal Power™

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T H I S PAG E 18ct rose gold pendant with Madagascan sapphire and diamonds, £10,800, Alba™. O P P O S I T E Platinum 11.21ct emerald-cut diamond eternity ring, £64,000; platinum 1ct round brilliant-cut half eternity ring, £3,600; platinum 2ct round brilliant-cut solitaire, £79,000; platinum 1ct round brilliant-cut half eternity ring, £3,500; platinum 6.13ct oval-cut diamond eternity ring, £30,000; platinum 12.31ct oval diamond line bracelet, £51,400; platinum 23.51ct emerald-cut diamond line bracelet, £120,000

THIS PAGE 18ct white gold three-row diamond bangle, £11,500; 18ct white gold round brilliant-cut diamond line bracelet, £15,000; platinum 6.6ct sapphire and diamond ring, £98,500. O P P O S I T E 18ct white gold diamond and sapphire long drop earrings, £55,000; 18ct white gold diamond and sapphire collar, £117,000, High Jewellery Collection

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Prices are correct at time of print in December 2024

Makeup artist: Victoria Martin. Hair stylist: Chris Sweeney. Manicurist: Cherrie Snow.

Special thanks to The Peninsula London hotel in London’s Belgravia, one of the city’s most luxurious hotels and also home to the most recently opened DMR boutique showroom, situated inside

HOROLOGY 58 — ROLEX Striving for perpetual excellence; unrivalled for expertise 68 — PATEK PHILIPPE Renowned for its high-end watch complications 78 — TAG HEUER Masters of innovation and craftsmanship 86 — OMEGA A brand inspired by sports timekeeping and the conquest of space 96 — TUDOR Specialists in making the best possible luxury watches at accessible price points 104 — IWC The reference for chronograph watches, with an uncompromising approach to performance, functionality and quality D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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Rolex

Offering timeless watches built to last, Rolex has been associated with elite sports, the arts and exploration for a century. Each Rolex is designed and produced with constant attention to the tiniest detail, which is why the word “superlative” is inscribed on its dial, promising the wearer the experience of an exceptional timepiece 58

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P H OTO G R A P H Y Benedict Morgan S E T D E S I G N JamStudio

P R E V I O U S PAG E Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller in 18ct yellow gold with Oysterflex bracelet, £37,450 A B OV E , F R O M L E F T Daytona Cosmograph in 18ct white gold, with diamond-set bezel and mother-of-pearl dial, £63,850; Explorer 40 in Oystersteel with Chromalight display, £6,650 O P P O S I T E Datejust 41 in Oystersteel and yellow gold with Jubilee bracelet, £13,050

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O P P O S I T E Datejust 31 in Oystersteel and Everose gold with diamond-set dial and Jubilee bracelet, £18,250 A B OV E GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with Oyster bracelet, £9,350

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Life aquatic

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As part of Rolex’s Perpetual Planet Initiative, one extraordinary man is monitoring the health of the world’s largest river by studying the pink river dolphins that live in it. Peter Howarth travels to Peru to meet him

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The Rolex Explorer was launched in 1953 as a tool watch for those who want to travel the planet curiously. Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, had the idea that exploration and those who undertake it would provide good opportunities for testing his timepieces. Shortly before the launch of the Explorer, on 29 May 1953 Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay had become the first people to reach the summit of Everest. The expedition was supplied with Oyster Perpetual chronometers by Rolex.

It was through discussing the needs of explorers in the field that Rolex developed a timepiece that could deal with extreme temperatures at either end of the scale and intense humidity. The Explorer was that watch. In the three-quarters of a century since its launch, there have been many expeditions accompanied by Rolex Explorer watches. And while the timepiece has evolved to incorporate new technology, it has remained essentially unchanged in its looks and its purpose. As Ed Viesturs, the American mountaineer who has reached the world’s 14 summits over 8,000m 21 times, and climbed the 14 highest mountains without the aid of oxygen, says: ‘Timekeeping is critical. For an explorer, the watch that you have has to be reliable. It has to be rather indestructible, waterproof, shockproof and easy to use.’ Viesturs wears an Explorer.

At the Explorers Club in New York (whose alumni include Ernest Shackleton, Sir Edmund Hillary, Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Sir Ranulph Fiennes), there are three Rolexes held for loan to members – an Explorer, Explorer II and Submariner. Would-be wearers have to present their proposed expeditions to a committee, a process that mirrors the long-standing practice of lending out club flags that get to go to multiple destinations to mark the institution’s achievements. One even went to the moon. However, over the years, the firm’s attitude to exploration has changed. Time was that it supported individuals who wanted to push themselves to the limit in the name of human achievement. Today, Rolex focuses on discovery that has scientific purpose, specifically acquiring knowledge that can help save the planet.

The Rolex Perpetual Planet Initiative, officially launched in 2019, seeks to create solutions to help rebalance the Earth by actively supporting those who

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Today, Rolex focuses on discovery that has scientific purpose, specifically acquiring knowledge that can help save the planet

anna1111986/Adobe Stock; Jorge Panchoaga/National Geographic; Sofia Lopez Manan

P R E V I O U S PAG E The Amazon river. A B OV E Fernando Trujillo at work on the water.

BELOW Pink river dolphins are grey until rapid movement causes the blood to rush to the skin’s surface to cool the mammals down

have projects that will help benefit ecosystems and biodiversity and the people who rely on these things – which ultimately means all of us. It is the logical result of years of work between Rolex and adventurous individuals who have seen the planet change in ways that are not always obvious to the rest of us.

To get a flavour of this, I travelled to Peru to meet marine biologist Fernando Trujillo, who is monitoring the health of the Amazon River by studying the pink river dolphins that live there. Trujillo is known as “Omacha”, meaning in the language of the indigenous Tikuna in his native Colombia “the dolphin that became human”.

He earned this name at the age of 19 when, after attending a college lecture by the legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, in which the Frenchman mentioned the river dolphins of the Amazon, he set off in search of them.

Braving narco gangs, Trujillo ended up in the middle of the jungle and became fascinated by the large grey mammals. They are something of a Trojan Horse for Trujillo, he confesses, explaining that studying them allows him to observe the state of the entire ecosystem.

He has just completed his participation in a two-year project, the National Geographic and Rolex Perpetual Planet Amazon Expedition. The two companies have partnered for 70 years now, and their latest undertaking has been to place seven teams of explorer scientists along the Amazon – from the Andes to the Atlantic, from the glaciers where it starts, to the mangroves where it joins the ocean over 4,000 miles later – to explore the state of the ecosystem the river creates and supports.

THE ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER 36 The watch of choice for some of the world’s most intrepid explorers, mountaineers and scientists, the Rolex Explorer is made to be reliable in extraordinary conditions – tough and durable. It has a black dial featuring super-legible numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, so the wearer can read the time in poor visibility. The dial can even be read easily in the dark, thanks to the Chromalight display.

The 36mm watch is fitted with a robust three-link bracelet that features the Rolex-designed and patented Oysterlock folding clasp, which prevents accidental opening, but can still easily be adjusted by the wearer by about 5mm.

The Rolex Explorer 36 comes in Oystersteel (a unique alloy with excellent anti-corrosion properties, specially developed for Rolex) or yellow Rolesor (Oystersteel and yellow gold combined). There is also a 40mm diameter in Oystersteel. Both models have a power reserve of around 70 hours. £6,300

ABOVE Fernando

Trujillo is part of a groundbreaking project that views the Amazon as water rather than forests

The Amazon has been something of a poster child for the sustainability movement. The river basin is as large as Australia and there’s water in its glaciers, clouds and humidity as well as in the river. The aim, says Trujillo, is that by identifying the threats to the Amazon – from over-fishing to deforestation, climate change and pollution from mining – and bringing these to the attention of the world, he may be able to get the governance in place that will save this enormous interlinked ecosystem.

As we cruise along the river just after sunrise on the lookout for river dolphins, it becomes apparent that these creatures are his secret weapon. He tells me that because people like dolphins, it’s easier to get them to care. And he’s making progress. ‘Last year we signed a global agreement where different nations in the world agreed to protect the river dolphins,’ he explains. In fact, 11 countries signed up to the document that covers the Amazon river dolphins as well as those in Asia, the only other place in the world where you find them. By tracking them, Trujillo can draw conclusions about the health of the river.

A few days spent with this charismatic man gives me the idea that he might just be some kind of shape-shifting dolphin/man superhero. He even has a costume of sorts: rash vest, long hiking trousers and a head scarf that he is rarely without. Oh, and a Rolex Explorer, of course. rolex.org D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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Patek Philippe

The last family-owned watchmaker in Geneva, Patek Philippe prides itself on its independence. Strong on innovation and reinvention, the manufacture develops its timepieces and movements in-house. Here, we showcase the watches we consider to be among the finest symbols of the Patek Philippe style 68

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P H OTO G R A P H Y Benedict Morgan S E T D E S I G N Annette Masterman

P R E V I O U S PAG E Calatrava Ref 6007G-010 in white gold featuring a modern graphic style, £33,610 T H I S PAG E Grand Complications In-line Perpetual Calendar Ref 5236P-010 with opaline rose-gilt dial, £121,100 O P P O S I T E Ref 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with a second time zone and a local-time date, £50,870

O P P O S I T E Ref 5224R-001 selfwinding Calatrava Travel Time with 24-hour display, £50,870 A B OV E Ref 4947R-001 self-winding Annual Calendar in rose gold, £52,580

H O R O LO GY

All in the family

R I G H T Ref 5822P marks the birth of the all-new Cubitus collection, the first new launch for nearly a quarter of a century

Patek Philippe’s new Cubitus watches form the genesis of a striking collection with real presence, says Joanne Glasbey You know those watches that are instantly recognisable from across the room? The ones that draw admiring glances and personal satisfaction in their recognition?

The watches that mark out the wearer as a person of discernment and discretion, a connoisseur of the fine things in life, and the observer – for having identified it – as a member of the same club?

Top-tier watchmaker Patek Philippe makes the sort of timepieces that always garner such attention, easily spotted at some distance. You don’t notice them because of shouty ostentation, but the reverse: their quiet elegance, refinement and confidence in the beauty of their own design. Some call it “wrist presence”.

In a world of uniformity, it’s a relief to see standout, original pieces.

Adding to its already-impressive horological roster is the fledgling Cubitus family. As the first new Patek Philippe collection launch in a quarter of a century, there were great expectations among luxury-watch enthusiasts – and it’s been worth the wait. Now here’s a timepiece with presence, for sure. With its powerful square shape, rounded corners and slender silhouette, it speaks of the future for the Swiss brand.

For Thierry Stern, president of the company, and the fourth generation to run the family-owned business – the only family-run watchmaker left in Geneva – this new launch has been very much a personal passion.

He’s not a trend follower, preferring instead to surprise people – by not doing the obvious. Clearly, he’s earned

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INTRODUCING PATEK PHILIPPE’S NEW REF 5822P CUBITUS – PLUS REF 5821/1A AND REF 5821/1AR Ref 5822P features a 45mm platinum case, instantaneously jumping grand date, moon phase and date. With a sunburst blue horizontally embossed dial, and baguettecut diamond set at six o’clock, it’s completed by a navy-blue composite material strap with complementary cream stitching and the Cubitus clasp. £75,690 Two other models are also debuting in the Cubitus collection – Ref 5821/1A and Ref 5821/1AR. Ref 5821/1A has a stylish 45mm steel case and bracelet, soft olive-green dial with horizontal embossed pattern, with date, sweep seconds, white-gold applied hour and minute markers with white luminescent coating and steel patented fold-over Cubitus clasp with lockable adjustment system. £35,330 Ref 5821/1AR has a vintage feel, with its 45mm bi-metal steel and soft rose-gold case and bracelet, featuring sunburst blue dial with horizontal embossed motif and rose-gold applied hour and minute hands with white luminescent coating, and patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system. £52,480

A B OV E The Ref 5821/1A Cubitus sees “casual chic” reinvented by the Swiss marque

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the right to pursue his dreams as he knows the market intimately and has the experience now to understand what’s needed to avoid mistakes. And, it would seem, he likes to take a risk, however calculated.

The luxury watch market comprises 85 per cent round watches. So aiming for a small niche might in less safe hands be considered a bit reckless. That’s where Patek Philippe’s rich horological heritage comes in. The brand has never leant on one particular line; it believes in spreading the watch love around the various collections. There’s also an historical resonance with the new design. The manufacture has created “quadrangular” shapes in past decades that it calls “form” watches, like square or rectangular, trapezoid or cushion, many of which were popular during the Art Deco era of the 1920s. With the shape already belonging to the house’s archive, Thierry Stern and his team set about creating the new models.

His design desires were clear from the start: the square watch must be slender – there are a few luxury square watches out there but many are too bulky.

And he didn’t want it to be traditional. So creating a contemporary appearance with slim contours was the grail. As the design progressed, the team realised that they were naturally incorporating a few design cues from the other chic sporting collections – the everpopular Nautilus and Aquanaut. And from the start,

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L E F T Elegant and bold, the Ref 5821/1AR Cubitus has a two-tone design in rose gold and steel

he had the name: Cubitus. This was a clever fit – descriptive, solid and it works in every language.

The three debut models of the new Cubitus collection all measure 45mm. This sounds pretty big at a time of decreasing sizings, but its slimness belies its measurements and it sits comfortably on the wrist.

The flagship watch has a platinum case, and a new movement was used to display the grand date, moon phase and day of the week, which all instantaneously change. Patek Philippe is, of course, renowned for its high-end complications and typically this new movement involved the filing of six patent applications.

Another new movement was created for the other two pieces: a steel case and integrated bracelet with an

olive-green dial, and a bi-metal version, featuring steel and subtle rose gold, with a blue dial. Both are powered by a self-winding calibre with stop-seconds function.

All three watches feature horizontally embossed dial patterns and alternate polished and vertical satinbrushed finishes, to enhance their contemporary styling.

Thierry Stern remains fairly tight lipped about the next birth into this new family, but he promises siblings – which means we can look forward to different sizes, dial colours and maybe gem-set versions. Charisma and character define these new pieces and there’s no doubting their wrist presence. And you’ll spot them across a crowded room, no problem. patek.com D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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TAG Heuer

By fusing avant garde design with distinct style, TAG Heuer has become a world pioneer in watchmaking innovation, meeting every new challenge head on, and then pushing it even further.

Seamlessly blending aesthetic flair and technical precision, the brand’s iconic timepieces are legendary in the horological world 78

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P H OTO G R A P H Y Joana Gauer S E T D E S I G N Johanne Mills

P R E V I O U S PAG E Monza Flyback Chronometer 42mm with carbon case, £12,100 T H I S PAG E , F R O M L E F T

Tourbillon Chronograph 42mm with black alligator strap, £20,950. Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph 34mm, £2,600 OPPOSITE Monaco Chronograph Racing Green 39mm, £8,150

H O R O LO GY

Pole position

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When a significant stake in TAG Heuer was acquired by the McLaren team principal in 1988, it forged a link between the Swiss watchmaker and Formula 1 driver Ayrton Senna that has stood the test of time, says Simon de Burton

With a history in motorsport that dates back more than a century, TAG Heuer has enjoyed associations with some of the greatest racing drivers of all time. But the one it’s probably most proud of is with triple Formula 1 World Champion, Ayrton Senna. More than a dozen models have been produced over the years, with the latest, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna, recently released.

Senna, who was born in 1960 in São Paulo, Brazil, first got behind the wheel at the tender age of four, when his father bought him a petrol-engined kart that, nine years later, led to his first race victory – a mere four years after which he was crowned 1977 South American Kart Champion. From there, Senna needed just four more years to become British Formula Ford 1600 champ – and a mere three years after that he was recruited to the Toleman Hart Formula 1 team, with whom he achieved a trio of podium finishes in 1984.

Among the most celebrated was at a drenched Monaco circuit where, having started 13th on the grid, he guided the underdog Toleman to a remarkable second-place finish in a display of the almost supernatural wet-weather

driving skills that would later earn him the nickname “The Rain Master”. But it was over the following three years that Senna’s true brilliance began to shine through, when a move to Lotus for the 1985 season resulted in his first two Grand Prix wins and four further podiums.

He finished 1987 with two wins and six more podiums, for a third place in the overall driver standings that proved beyond doubt that the Brazilian was heading for World Champion status. He achieved that pinnacle in 1988 in his first year with McLaren, the team with whom he became best associated, and where he developed the famous rivalry with teammate Alain Prost that formed the basis of the award-winning 2010 documentary film Senna, directed by Asif Kapadia.

It was also in 1988 that the now inextricable link between Senna and TAG Heuer was first forged, when McLaren’s then team principal Ron Dennis became a major shareholder. In the early years, Senna’s relationship with TAG Heuer was based on a mutual appreciation rather than any official contract, with the brand’s watches becoming the star’s default choice as his

A B OV E Ayrton Senna prepares for the start of a race with his trusty TAG Heuer on his wrist

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Senna left McLaren for Williams ahead of the 1994 season but, keen to maintain his relationship with TAG Heuer, he signed as an official ambassador

SENNA’S TAG HEUER WATCHES OF CHOICE From the start of the 1989 racing season, Senna was never to be seen without a TAG Heuer on his wrist. These are the models that will for ever be associated with him.

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superb driving ability brought him further World Championship victories in 1990 and 1991. Throughout this time, and right up until 1993, Senna was most often seen wearing a TAG Heuer S/EL digi-analogue chronograph on a distinctive leather strap, a watch still regarded as his signature model (and an example of the one he gifted to McLaren F1 mechanic Ron Pellat, which realised €55,200 at a Bonhams auction in 2007).

Senna left McLaren for Williams ahead of the 1994 season but, keen to maintain his relationship with TAG Heuer, he signed as an official ambassador in the same year. At the time, TAG Heuer was not long into its partnership with McLaren as official timing partner – a role that the watchmaker’s PR manager Mike Vogt was heavily responsible for promoting. ‘Part of that involved developing personal relationships with the drivers, especially Senna,’ recalls Vogt. ‘That included supplying them with watches, in return for which they would happily talk with our customers during the race weekend.

‘TAG Heuer was a McLaren sponsor but when Senna changed to Williams it was very important to us [TAG Heuer] to keep him and, thankfully, he agreed to stay with us on an official basis,’ explains Vogt. At the time, Senna and his manager, Celso Lemos, were keen to develop the Senna brand to ensure the driver had an income after he retired from racing. Because of this, they came up with the slogan “Driven to Perfection”, devised the famous Senna “S” logo and entered into a partnership with Ducati to create the limited-edition 996 Senna superbike.

‘Our idea was to design a special Senna watch based on the new 6000 Series that had been launched earlier in 1994,’ says Vogt, ‘and Senna suggested making one with a chequered-flag pattern on the dial together with a red Senna “S”, and fitting the watch with his preferred type of leather bracelet. But as fate would dictate, 1 May 1994 was to mark the end of one of the most stellar careers in motor-racing history when Senna lost control of his car at the Imola circuit’s Tamburello corner while leading the San Marino Grand Prix, causing him to hit a concrete retaining wall at more than 145mph.

Despite being dragged from the wreckage almost immediately and airlifted to hospital, he was pronounced dead two hours later, leaving the Formula 1 world and his millions of fans in a state of shock. In the months before his death, however, Senna had begun to seek a way of using his success to benefit those less fortunate than himself. Although known for his spontaneous generosity in helping people in difficulty, he knew he could achieve greater things through an official organisation – and early

FO R M U L A 1 CHRONOGRAPH

S/EL CHRONOGRAPH

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YEAR: 1991

Y E A R : 1 9 8 9 – 93

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CA S E : 3 7 M M

CA S E : 3 9 M M

STA I N L E S S ST E E L A N D G O L D P L AT E

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STA I N L E S S ST E E L

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STA I N L E S S ST E E L A N D G O L D P L AT E

CA L I B R E E TA 2 8 9 2

Q UA R T Z CHRONOGRAPH CA L I B R E

SERIES 6000 – YEAR: 1992–94 – CA S E : 3 8 M M

– Q UA R T Z 1 / 1 0 0 T H S EC O N D M U LT I F U N C T I O N CHRONOGRAPH

THE NEW TAG HEUER CARRERA CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON X SENNA Launched by TAG Heuer in October 2024 as part of the commemorations marking the extraordinary life and career of Ayrton Senna, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna has been designed with meticulous attention to detail and incorporates elements that reflect the spirit and achievements of the legendary Formula 1 driver. To O P P O S I T E Senna

prepares for a race A B OV E Aboard

Getty Images

the Honda Marlboro McLaren racecar

in 1994, he set out the framework of the Instituto Ayrton Senna to support education for Brazilian children.

The Senna brand he initiated with Lemos, meanwhile, went on to see the now-famous Senna “S” symbol being used on a raft of licensed products, ranging from those Ducati motorcycles in the early days to, more recently, a McLaren supercar, video games, clothing and even a vertical take-off aircraft.

Following his death, Senna’s family decreed that production of his special watch should go ahead and TAG Heuer opted to make 1,000 examples of the Series 6000 Senna in three sizes – with some of the proceeds from sales going to the Instituto Ayrton Senna. The creation of those original Senna watches proved to be the start of one of the longest, continuously running relationships in the watch industry.

The latest, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna, is a 500-piece limited edition launched to coincide with the new Senna Netflix series marking 30 years since his death. It premieres on 29 November.

Some of the proceeds of sales of the 37,000 CHF watch will go to the Instituto Ayrton Senna which, since its founding, has raised more than $500 million to help educate 36 million Brazilian children – adding to the already remarkable legacy left by Senna as one of the finest racing drivers the world has ever seen. tagheuer.com

symbolise his speed and precision, the carbon bezel is inscribed with “Senna” and the tachymeter scale reaches 400km/h.

A skeleton dial bearing a chequered-flag motif represents his victorious spirit, while on the 44mm timepiece’s caseback is an iconic image of Senna with his helmet, supplied by the Senna Foundation. Coupled with markings that denote the release of a limited edition of just 500 of these exceptional timepieces underscores the exclusivity of the watch. Even the high-quality blue rubber strap it comes with – being at once both durable and comfortable – encapsulates Senna’s relentless pursuit of perfection. £33,050

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Omega

Omega watches have braved the vacuum of space, been to the moon, plunged the depths of the world’s oceans, and graced the wrists of world leaders. Among the Swiss powerhouse’s iconic collections are the Speedmaster and the Seamaster, both a perfect marriage of performance and design 86

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P H OTO G R A P H Y Benedict Morgan S E T D E S I G N Amy Friend

P R E V I O U S PAG E Speedmaster “The First Omega in Space” with 39.7mm polished-brushed stainless-steel case, £7,400 T H I S PAG E Seamaster Diver 300M 42mm steel chronometer with green ceramic bezel, £5,600 O P P O S I T E Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M 41mm stainless-steel chronometer, £6,200

O P P O S I T E Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 42mm watch, £7,500 T H I S PAG E Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer 43mm watch, £11,700

Time and space

R I G H T On 21 July 1969 Buzz Aldrin became the second human being to set foot on the lunar surface, and the Omega Speedmaster he wore became “The First Watch on the Moon”

The latest in the long and honourable line of Omega Speedmasters is called “The First Omega in Space”. Robert Ryan explores the watch’s interplanetary origins

When Omega launched its first Speedmaster in 1957, manned space flight was still in the realm of science fiction. Eventually, the watch would make the journey into space and, ultimately, to the moon. Yet the Speedy had a life before the moon, and the latest iteration salutes those heady years, taking its design cues and features from the Omegas of the late 1950s and early 1960s, when Nasa (born a year after the Speedmaster) first turned its gaze on the heavens.

But it is not to the ’57 iteration that “The First Omega in Space” is an homage. Instead, it is to the CK2998 launched two years later, with slight variations from its predecessor, such as “Alpha” hands replacing the original “Broad Arrow” style, and a black aluminium bezel.

“The First Omega in Space” also features the Alpha handset filled with vintage photoluminescent SuperLumiNova. Other retro features include a vintage Omega typeface, and a sapphire crystal glass that mimics the original domed hesalite (which is a form of acrylic: tough and flexible but more susceptible to scratches than sapphire). The watch contains another 21st-century upgrade, the much-praised Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 movement, which is rated to 15,000 gauss, a measure of its anti-magnetic properties, as certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).

But it is the caseback that reveals the significance of this watch. Turn the edition over and there is the famed 92

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Image courtesy of Nasa

H O R O LO GY

“THE FIRST OMEGA IN SPACE” MAKES A VINTAGE RETURN

L E F T Astronaut Wally Schirra wore his own second-generation Omega Speedmaster into space in October 1962

Astronaut images courtesy of Nasa

This year’s updated models of the iconic “The First Omega in Space” follow the second-generation style of 1959, with a symmetrical 39.7mm case in polished-brush stainless steel and a black aluminium bezel featuring the essential tachymeter scale, including the “Dot over Ninety” (as opposed to sitting beside the numeral). In keeping with the brand’s heritage, the watch features two vintage logos, one on the dial, the other on the crown. On the case back are the Omega Seahorse medallion and the engravings “Speedmaster”, “The First Omega in Space” and “October 3, 1962”.

To give the watches an upgrade, they are driven by a Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, the latest evolution of the calibre that powered the original models.

Because automatic movements were not up to the job in space in the 1960s, it is, of course, manually wound. £7,400

Omega Seahorse medallion, plus the engravings “The First Omega in Space” and “October 3, 1962”. Naturally, there is a story behind those words. Back in 1959, following physical and mental evaluations, Nasa selected seven test pilots, from an initial batch of 110 candidates, to go into space as part of its upcoming Mercury Project.

A key element of the early discussions between the seven and Nasa was whether these pilots should have any control over the capsule and if it should have a window.

None of the Mercury Seven wanted to be seen as just a “man in a can” orbiting the Earth, and they won the argument on both counts.

Having the ability to manoeuvre in space meant accurate timekeeping was essential, as not everyone had faith in the mission clocks in the capsules. Several of the astronauts decided to buy their own timepieces, including Walter “Wally” Schirra, who chose an off-the-shelf, second-generation Omega Speedmaster.

Schirra and his Speedmaster threw off the earthly bonds on 3 October 1962, in Sigma 7. During his six orbits of the Earth, Schirra demonstrated the use of manual controls to override the automatic ones, illustrating that the astronauts could “fly” the capsules.

The Speedies used on the Gemini 4 orbits in 1965 were the 1964 update, which also contained the Calibre 321 movement, and one was used by astronaut Ed White to time his EVA (extra-vehicular activity) and the bursts from the gas-powered “zip gun” he used to propel himself.

This was the Speedmaster model that would undergo the famously rigorous testing demanded by Deke Slayton, 11 tough assessments involving extremes of pressure, temperature, acceleration, shock and humidity, which were designed to test three different makes of timepiece to destruction. Only the Omega Speedmaster survived, becoming the first and only watch to be flight-qualified for manned space missions by Nasa. Omegas are still used for space flights by Nasa to this day.

That Speedmaster evolved into what is now known as the Moonwatch, which was larger at 42mm and featured an asymmetric build with crown guards and wider-set

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chronograph pushers. All three astronauts on board Apollo 11 for the moonlanding – Michael Collins, Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin and Neil Armstrong – wore this watch, but only one of the watches made it to the surface of the moon. Armstrong, the first to descend from the lunar lander Eagle, had left his Omega behind in the orbiting command module with Collins, as the on-board timer was malfunctioning. Thus, Aldrin’s became “The First Watch on the Moon”.

Arguably, though, the ultimate proof of the worth of having an accurate and reliable watch as back-up came two missions later, on the ill-fated Apollo 13. Once the three astronauts on board had sling-shotted around the moon and were heading back to Earth, Nasa determined their angle of approach was too shallow; they were in danger of bouncing off the atmosphere and being lost in space.

It was decided they needed to fire their remaining engine for exactly 14 seconds. As commander Jim Lovell recalled in the programme: ‘So we had to make another

burn. But our computer was down. Our guidance system wasn’t working. Our autopilot was off. We had to do it manually. We had to use the Earth as a target. Line up with a little gun sight that we had in the window of the lunar module. I knew that when that engine goes on that I’d never be able to keep the Earth in the window by myself. So, I said, “Fred [Haise], keep the Earth from going back and forth too much. I’ll keep the Earth from going up and down too much. Jack [Swigert], time [the burn] with your wristwatch.”’

That wristwatch was, of course, a Speedmaster and it was probably its finest hour.

Now, with this launch, Omega aficionados can celebrate the exciting early years of space exploration by wearing – with a choice of three straps – an icon that shares its DNA and aesthetics with the very watch that Wally Schirra wore when he rode the mighty Atlas rocket up to orbit and into horological history. omegawatches.com

A B OV E On 13 December 1972, Eugene A Cernan wore a Speedmaster 105.003 as he became the final person, to date, to walk on the moon

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Tudor

Rooted in the brand’s “Born to Dare” philosophy, Tudor watches appeal to those desiring not just precision, but a bold statement.

As a sibling of Rolex, the brand shares much of its respected character, panache and robust high quality. Discover your personal style from DMR’s exceptional range 96

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P HOTOGRAP HY Joana Gauer SET DESIGN Johanne Mills

P R E V I O U S PAG E Black Bay 41 stainless steel chronograph with blue dial, £4,880 A B OV E , F R O M TO P Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT 39 stainless steel with black dial, £3,770; Black Bay 31 steel and yellow gold with black diamond dial, £5,240 O P P O S I T E Royal 34 stainless steel and 18ct yellow gold with brown diamond dial, £3,810

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H O R O LO GY

Riding high 100

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With its own namesake team and a watch that captures the spirit of cycling, Tudor is going for roadracing gold. Shane C Kurup discovers what makes the Swiss horologist’s ingenious new timepiece special D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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Given that timing is everything in sport, it’s only natural that watchmakers have forged strong ties with the world’s foremost athletes. One such watchmaker is Tudor, whose long-time support of New Zealand’s All Blacks and the extreme sports of big-wave surfing, freediving, Formula 1 and yacht racing all cement the brand’s commitment to high-adrenaline pursuits.

In 2018, it made its foray into pro cycling, taking the first steps to form its own squad to compete in the sport’s most challenging road races. Then, in 2022, Tudor took it up a gear, persuading the retired Fabian Cancellara to head up the team. During his career, the Swiss rider bagged two Olympic golds and was world champion four times.

The Tudor Pro Cycling Team led by Cancellara consists of 28 cyclists, each selected for their skill in a certain specialism – from hill climbing to long-distance sprinting and rolling-terrain whizzing. This year saw them compete in a Grand Tour for the first time – the notoriously tough Giro d’Italia. This 3,400-km (2,113mile) race is cycled over 21 stages across Italy’s rippling hills, hairpin mountain bends and cobblestone streets and is considered a greater test of a cyclist’s mettle than the Tour de France. The team ranked in the top 10 for general classification – a worthy achievement for its Grand Tour debut.

‘Training is tailored to each rider,’ says Swiss-born Tom Bohli, 30, who was approached by Cancellara to join the team in 2022 for his merits as a distance and 102

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time-trail rider. ‘We get a schedule from our coaches in line with our race schedule and expectations within the team. But riders have to plan the time, location and ultimately the terrain ourselves.’

When going from each stage of the tour to another, cyclists travel on a purpose-built team coach, with an entourage of 63 professionals to keep them performing at their best. A nutritionist and chef work from a mobile canteen to ensure meals are balanced. Coaches keep cyclists tuned in to their stats and performance and a team of carers and medical professionals looks after their physical and mental wellbeing. Of course, the team would be nothing without their wheels and a crew of 10 engineers is in charge of the eight BMC ultra-light carbon bikes allocated to each rider to ensure that every bike has the right accessories and parts to stay road-worthy.

As sleep is crucial for recovery, the support team goes so far as moving each rider’s mattress from hotel to hotel as the tour progresses, to encourage quality shut-eye.

Naturally, Tudor’s association with the team has influenced its catalogue of coveted sports watches. While the Black Bay Chrono was initially the team’s timepiece of choice, this year Tudor pulled out all the stops and developed a watch engineered especially for velophiles.

Released at the Giro d’Italia 2024 in Turin, the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is Tudor’s first timepiece dedicated to the sport and offers a slew of features that make it ideal for both amateur and elite cyclists.

P R E V I O U S PAG E

Taking part in such a gruelling feat of endurance calls for serious preparation, with riders getting in 20–30 hours’ saddle time a week A B OV E Heading up the Tudor team, Fabian Cancellara (centre) is Switzerland’s most decorated pro cyclist

INTRODUCING THE NEW TUDOR PELAGOS FXD CHRONO “CYCLING EDITION” 43MM Specially engineered by Tudor for its Pro Cycling Team, this chronograph has been designed with both functionality and light weight in mind and is more than robust enough to stand up to the extreme demands of the sport, while being easy for riders to operate. Its case is made from carbon composite, echoing the carbon fibre used to construct the world’s fastest racing bikes But beyond toughness and durability, the “Cycling Edition” is intended to be of use to riders as they put in time on their bikes. Its tachymeter is presented in a way specifically suited for the average speeds that cyclists routinely sustain. Wrapped around the dial in a spiral, this scale can be read at a glance by the riders, with no need for them to take their hands off the handlebars. £4,560

The carbon-composite case echoes the materials used for the frames of the Tudor team’s BMC bicycles, while the technical fabric strap is woven in France on 19th-century looms, fusing Tudor’s sense of traditional workmanship and modern functionality. Beneath the handsome, dark face is a chronograph – a common feature typically used for timing motor-racing – but Tudor recalibrated the function so cyclists can keep tabs on their performance. The tachymeter on the dial used for calculating speed over a set distance has been redrawn and wrapped around the dial in a spiral, allowing the cyclists to read their average speed at a glance. And the ingenuity of the design has earned fans in the pro team.

‘I spend a considerable amount of my training in Belgium on cobblestone roads,’ says Bohli, ‘and the ultra-light carbon-fibre case, titanium components and ergonomic design make it extremely comfortable to wear. The resilience of the materials used also mean it’s very hard to scratch and it can fight against the elements.’

Aside from its obvious sporting prowess, the stealthy, all-black design also makes it the ideal daily wearer.

‘It’s a watch you can wear for a ride,’ says Bohli, ‘then hit the shower, but is stylish enough to keep on for wherever your day takes you. And unlike most “wearable” watches in the sports category, its bulletproof self-winding movement can store 70 hours’ worth of mechanical energy, so it’s one less thing you need to charge – and will still be ticking over after a long weekend off the wrist.’

As for the team, with both Tudor and time on its side, the wheels are geared up for more road-racing triumphs. tudorwatch.com

B E LOW Tudor Pro Cycling Team member Marius Mayrhofer, 24, takes to the road

While the Black Bay Chrono was initially the team’s timepiece of choice, this year Tudor pulled out all the stops and developed a watch engineered especially for velophiles

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IWC

With robustness, meticulous workmanship and easy readability all deeply rooted in the Swiss marque’s DNA, IWC creates masterpieces of haute horlogerie that combine engineering and maximum precision with exclusive design, securing it a position as one of the world’s premium brands in the luxury watch market 104

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P H OTO G R A P H Y Joana Gauer S E T D E S I G N Johanne Mills

P R E V I O U S PAG E , F R O M L E F T

Portofino Perpetual Calendar 40 in stainless steel with calfskin strap, £21,500; Ingenieur Automatic 40 in stainless steel, £10,500 O P P O S I T E Portugieser Automatic 42mm with stainless-steel case and alligator strap, £11,500 T H I S PAG E Portugieser 41mm 5N red gold chronograph with Obsidian dial and alligator strap, £16,700

H O R O LO GY

Game changer Each year IWC revamps one of its core lines.

This year it was the Portugieser, a dress watch that’s never looked so of its time, says Laura McCreddie-Doak

The Portugieser – formerly known as the Portuguese, with the German moniker being introduced and retrospectively adopted in 2015 – always had the dubious honour of being ahead of its time. It first appeared in 1939 against a backdrop of turmoil in Europe. Politics were becoming more radicalised, with democracies turning into dictatorships, and economies being pushed to the limit. Being neutral, Switzerland depended on stability for the success of its network of exports.

With its European neighbours becoming polarised, it needed to find new markets into which to expand.

One of these was Portugal, a country with different demands from other markets. As well as wanting pocket watches and women’s dress styles, there was an interest in wristwatches with marine chronometer levels of precision. And it was a request for this type of watch from a wholesaler in Lisbon, believed to be run by Messrs Rodrigues and Antonio Teixeira, that led to the creation of the then-named Mod 228.

‘When the Portugieser first appeared in 1939, it was an anomaly, due to its size,’ says Craig Hawes, in-house expert at pre-owned watch specialist Watchfinder & Co. ‘At that time, only pilot’s watches really came in case sizes over 35mm – IWC was actually making pilot’s watches that exceeded 50mm at this time – so its larger dimensions would have been considered a bit cumbersome and indiscreet. Almost a step backwards to the era of the pocket watch.’

Post-war, through the 1950s and 60s, IWC flourished, with its output increasing to around 50,000, but the 108

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THE NEW IWC PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR 44

ABOVE Designed to take

into account complex leap-year exceptions, the perpetual calendar’s complication is accurate to the year 4000

PREVIOUS PAGE

Wherever maximum precision and accuracy are required, IWC employs machines, but for assembly it relies on the watchmakers’ skill and expertise

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Ref 325, as the Mod 228 was then known, having been renamed, continued to languish, its lack of visibility contributing perhaps to poor sales.

‘The Portugieser was only manufactured sporadically in the decades after it first appeared,’ says Hawes, ‘so it wouldn’t have been as visible as other dress watches of the time, such as Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, which has never been out of production.’

There was a brief chance for a revival in 1973, when a Swiss retailer showed an interest in the movements and bought a third-generation Ref 325 from IWC, but the arrival of cheap quartz on the market put paid to that.

In keeping with the Ref 325’s reliance on the vagaries of fate, it was the chance arrival of a client at the IWC atelier wearing a vintage Ref 325 that brought it back into the limelight. Those working there were struck by how unique this watch was. Bear in mind this is the era of chunky oversized Royal Oak Offshores and Seiko Divers. People just weren’t looking for dress watches with a Bauhaus edge. Even IWC wasn’t entirely sure that reviving the Ref 325 as its 125th anniversary watch was a sure bet, only making a thousand in steel and a few hundred in rose gold or platinum. However, its “against-the-grain” style hit a sartorial nerve.

‘Anything that bucks the trend can go either way – a spectacular failure or an industry game changer,’ says Hawes. ‘The red Portugieser was bold and fresh.

For a dressier watch, it was a head-turner and maybe even influenced other luxury brands to add a bit of colour to their dress watch lines, which has been apparent in recent years. It definitely feels like the dress

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IWC Schaffhausen originally developed its perpetual calendar in the 1980s and launched its completely reengineered Perpetual Calendar 44 at Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva. It features a 44.4mm dial size, in a case of robust 18ct Armor Gold. It features an Obsidian black dial finished with layers of transparent lacquer, polished to a high gloss, and has gold-plated hands and gold appliqués. It’s completed by an alligator strap by Santoni The Perpetual Calendar 44 has displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits, and perpetual moon phase. All the displays are perfectly synchronised with each other and can be advanced easily by single crown.

The IWC Double Moon™ display shows the moon as it can be seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. The timepiece is driven by the IWC-made 52616 calibre assembled from 386 individual parts. Its automatic Pellaton winding system converts movements in the wearer’s arm into a reliable power reserve of seven days. £41,000

The star, however, is the new hand-wound tourbillon, which illustrates why IWC’s Portugieser is the collection where experimentation happens watch doesn’t need to be as conservative as it used to be. The shackles are off and the Portugieser line has had a say in that.’

In this year’s relaunched Portugieser collection, technical mastery is balanced with impeccable panache. New colours have been added – a soft, desert-at-dusk shade appropriately called Dune, and the glossy black Obsidian dial shown here – a hard and brittle volcanic glass – created with 15 layers of lacquer. It pairs beautifully with the case in the warm tones of IWC’s in-house proprietary rose gold, called Armor Gold.

The Automatic 40 has been subtly reworked with a new slimmer case construction and double box-glass sapphire crystals giving the dial a new expansiveness, allowing its minimalist design to be appreciated. On the Automatic 42, a new slimmer bezel has the same effect. A re-engineered case construction on the

BELOW The dial on the Portugieser is crafted through 60 meticulous steps, including 15 layers of clear lacquer alone

Perpetual Calendar 44 gives the wearer more space to observe the mesmeric complication, which, despite its four subdials, manages to retain the Portugieser Bauhaus signature.

The star, however, is the new hand-wound tourbillon, which illustrates why IWC’s Portugieser is the collection where experimentation happens. At nine o’clock, there is an orb, but it’s not a moonphase, rather a day/night indicator. The idea was actually that of a young (now former) apprentice watchmaker, who submitted the design for consideration. It’s hard to imagine anywhere else where a young watchmaker could have their ideas taken so seriously, they become a major part of a collection relaunch.

For DMR, the connection to the IWC Portugieser evokes something more personal than its merely being an incredibly designed ahead-of-its-time dress watch. ‘I often feel that DMR’s residence in Liverpool, once a major world port steeped in history, adds synergy to this model and our locals that relate right back to the day in 1939 when two Portuguese merchants requested a maritime wristwatch to support their travelling lifestyle,’ says Cordelia Hyde, sales ambassador at DMR’s Liverpool One boutique.

‘Our Portugieser wearers appreciate quiet luxury, with a fascinating story to tell.’ iwc.com

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SHOWROOMS

To walk into one of David M Robinson’s showrooms is to step into a world where art, precision, passion and expertise merge; a place where memories are made and love stories are just beginning. The spaces are as warm and welcoming as the friendly staff, ensuring clients receive a service unlike any other.

Over the following pages, take a closer look at the elegant spaces around the UK, from DMR stores to mono-brand boutiques, described by the people who manage them, who make DMR special D M R M AG A Z I N E — W I N T E R 2 4 / 2 5

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ALTRINCHAM JAC K I E S A L M O N , S H OW R O O M M A N AG E R

Our newly refurbished Altrincham showroom is dedicated to jewellery, with expert designers and master goldsmiths on site, allowing our customers to be fully immersed in the creative process. If there’s one thing that sums up our ethos, it’s that we say “yes” to each person’s bespoke vision and work out how to make it happen. There shouldn’t be any barriers when it comes to designing a dream jewel, and that goes for all budgets.

The Altrincham showroom is a place that celebrates our roots as a heritage jewellery house because everything can be done under one roof, from the initial sketches to the finished jewel. Buying jewellery is an emotionally charged experience, so we devote as much attention as possible to fostering strong client relationships so that the joy, symbolism and sentimentality of each piece can flourish.

It’s all about creating a memorable journey for our clients.

14 Railway Street, Altrincham WA14 2RE; 0333 996 9987 HIGHLIGHT OF MY YEAR Going with the DMR senior team to Paris and enjoying an amazing dinner at The Peninsula hotel after a day touring the city on Segways.

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A B OV E The DMR Altrincham showroom.

B E LOW Team DMR Altrincham

CANARY WHARF B A L E S E K U LC E S K A , S H OW R O O M M A N AG E R

Working for a family business is wonderful because there’s a strong feeling of collaboration rooted in the brand’s DNA. It’s something that you instantly feel – like you are part of the family too! Because I split my time between two locations, it’s important to have a very structured day. I like to be fully prepped for each and every client, so that the team and I can offer them the best guidance and insight. I spend two thirds of my time at our recently refurbished Canary Wharf boutique, where we share our passion for the DMR jewellery collections, and finest luxury watches from Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor in a relaxed and comfortable space. We’re thrilled that our clientele is growing at a fast rate because of the evolution of the area into an increasingly residential one.

Creating a sense of belonging is the cornerstone of the DMR brand, so we like to foster community connections, even in a busy area like Canary Wharf.

32-33 Jubilee Place, Canary Wharf E14 5NY; 0333 996 9987

A B OV E The welcoming Canary Wharf store.

BELOW Here, clients can discover watch options in the relaxed but luxurious dedicated areas

HIGHLIGHT OF MY YEAR Taking some of our VIP clients to visit Patek Philippe in Geneva – a memorable few days.

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L E F T The Liverpool showroom includes dedicated watch brand spaces that feel like a boutique within a boutique

LIVERPOOL A L I S H A FO U L K E S , S H OW R O O M M A N AG E R

Our refit in spring 2022 was about transforming the DMR experience into something much more dynamic, fun and sociable for our customers, and the showroom is now a discreetly curated environment split into distinct zones.

You feel relaxed and totally indulged here, boosted by the fact that we have trained watchmakers and in-house goldsmiths on site who are happy to demonstrate their skills and discuss any questions you may have. In fact, our master goldsmith, Rupert, has been with DMR for over 35 years, having started out as Mr Robinson’s bench apprentice. I have worked for the company for over 20 116

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years, and no two days are alike – there’s always a new project to explore, new people to meet and new stories to bring to life. The most thrilling part of all, is when the grown-up children of existing clients come to us for their bespoke engagement rings and custom-made pieces. It is a huge compliment to be regarded as a family jeweller.

4–6 South John Street, Liverpool L1 8BJ; 0333 996 9987 HIGHLIGHT OF MY YEAR Visiting jewellery shows in Las Vegas, Venice and Hong Kong – all in one year!

MANCHESTER H A N N A H W I L L I A M S , S H OW R O O M M A N AG E R

THE PENINSULA B A L E S E K U LC E S K A , S H OW R O O M M A N AG E R

I spend my afternoons at our boutique located within The Peninsula London hotel in Belgravia, which is no hardship since it is one of London’s most exclusive and luxurious hotels. It attracts a chic and discerning clientele from all over the world, so not only are we especially sensitive to each client’s personal preferences and individual needs, we make sure we are as focussed and efficient as possible. If someone is visiting London for a short break, their time is precious, so being well-organised, personable and dynamic is a given. I spend all my time on the shop floor as I love to be involved with everything that happens during the day, from supporting my team, to spending time with clients, many of them regulars from the UK as well as abroad. I love it when our customers from the north-west come in when they are staying at the hotel. The boutique has been instrumental in showcasing our in-house jewellery collections, including very special one-off pieces, to a wider international audience.

Personal favourites are the Lunar and Hopscotch lines because they are classic with a contemporary twist. In fact, I am often complimented on my own Lunar ring which effortlessly blends glamour and modern elegance, so the perfect fit for this exceptional location.

DMR at The Peninsula London hotel, 1 Grosvenor Place SW1X 7HJ; 0333 996 9987

I began at DMR in 2013 at the Cheshire branch and enjoyed working alongside such a dynamic team as I progressed through the ranks. I became manager of DMR’s Manchester showroom just over three years ago.

Staying in a single company for a long stretch of time is rare these days, but so many of us at DMR do. That’s because growing with the company is hugely rewarding, with the business going beyond the traditional notions of luxury to create a real connection with clients. In our main showroom, we have areas dedicated to Rolex, IWC and DMR jewellery which create a visually impactful connection between the shop’s indoor and outdoor spaces, since these brands are displayed in the lovely large windows that wrap around our corner building. We also have an in-house Rolex service centre where clients can see our watchmakers at work. There’s a private lounge area where we host special events – most recently a watchmaking masterclass for our valued IWC clients.

I’m especially proud of our jewellery division, comprising in-house collections and a bespoke service, which has thrived in a highly competitive environment. We’re situated in Manchester’s city centre where there’s a lot of choice for jewellery lovers, and yet many of our customers are return clients. Not only do we offer a very high level of service and craftsmanship, we’re also focused on making people feel heard, appreciated and understood.

28 St Ann’s Square, Manchester M2 7JB; 0333 996 9987 HIGHLIGHT OF MY YEAR Walking onto the Rolex and Patek Philippe exhibition stands at Watches and Wonders in Geneva in April.

A B OV E DMR at the exclusive Peninsula London hotel. R I G H T Manchester’s light-filled corner showroom

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THE BOUTIQUES Along with five showrooms, David M Robinson also has standalone luxury watch brand stores for Omega, Tudor and TAG Heuer

A B OV E Clients mark milestone events such as birthdays, anniversaries, personal milestones or a special memory with help from the Tudor boutique

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TUDOR BOUTIQUE, MANCHESTER DA N I E L C O L E , M A N AG E R

We are Tudor’s first mono-brand boutique in Manchester, located a stone’s throw from our St Ann’s Square showroom. In fact, DMR is the first independent retailer to partner with the Swiss watchmaker in the UK, so the shop is extra special. I’ve worked in this industry for 15 years and I love being around watches. Tudor is an especially exciting brand because it has a very adventurous spirit, always innovative when it comes to timekeeping technology, with strong, wearable designs that link back to a rich and compelling history. We’ve just launched the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT, which is a beautiful addition to our collection and one that’s now on my bucket list. Our most popular model is the Black Bay, which has many iterations including a highly coveted pink chronograph. There’s something unique about working with Tudor watches, because most purchases we see are made to mark a meaningful moment in someone’s life. We also cater to avid collectors who bring their own energy and excitement to the boutique.

22 St Ann Street, Manchester M2 7LF; 0161 808 1926 HIGHLIGHT OF MY YEAR Attending the America’s Cup in Barcelona with Tudor.

TAG HEUER BOUTIQUE, LIVERPOOL JA M E S WA LW Y N , M A N AG E R

We are the UK’s largest TAG Heuer boutique and, as the brand has a rich heritage linked to the world of sport, we have plenty of motorsport memorabilia including racing helmets and artworks including a mural by a local artist of a Porsche Carrera chassis. A highlight is our golf simulator which allows clients to practise their swing while trying the special golf edition of our Connected smartwatch.

We opened just under a year ago and already we’ve held some memorable client events in our private lounge area, including exclusive watch reveals and a group lesson with a professional PGA golf coach. Sport and TAG Heuer go hand in hand, and it’s a pleasure to share the brand’s history with clients who aren’t yet familiar with some of those iconic connections. The story that stands out the most to me is that of the Carrera watch collection, first debuted in 1963 and inspired by the Mexican Carrera Panamericana, a highly dangerous race that took place in the 1950s. An enduring classic, the Carrera really encapsulates a slick sense of daring. In fact, one watch that’s currently creating a real buzz is our exclusive tourbillon edition of the Carrera “Glassbox”, released to celebrate the model’s 60th anniversary last year. It’s very rare, so people travel a long way to see its craftsmanship at close range. Really this is what DMR is all about: allowing people to enjoy the brands, try things on and get a feel for what really suits them, with experts on hand to help.

23 South John Street, Liverpool L1 8BU; 0151 456 1860 HIGHLIGHT OF MY YEAR An evening of private golf lessons for clients with Nick Dougherty from Sky Sports.

R I G H T, F R O M TO P

The Omega boutique in Liverpool; Neil Baxandall with Rory McIlroy. B E LOW The TAG Heuer boutique – its interiors feature motorsport art and memorabilia

OMEGA BOUTIQUE, LIVERPOOL N E I L B A X A N DA L L , M A N AG E R

The Omega boutique in Liverpool ONE is designed not just to display the watches attractively, but to create a welcoming experience. It’s one of the largest in the UK, with ample space to showcase Omega’s extensive range. At the time of opening, we were the only franchise boutique that had a fully serviced and equipped bar. Despite the range, the popularity battle between the Seamaster and Speedmaster is ongoing. Currently, the Speedmaster is leading, thanks to exciting new releases like the first white-dial Moonwatch and the homage to the original Speedmaster worn in space. In terms of our ladies’ range, with classic collections like the Constellation and the modern Aqua Terra, we’re witnessing the popularity of these designs increase by the day. Three years ago, I joined the Omega boutique as the showroom manager, building on my eight years with DMR and my experience as a sales ambassador for Omega. My role has been focused on creating a fulfilling work environment for my team and ensuring the boutique’s success. I oversee all aspects of buying and merchandising, embracing the classic responsibilities of a manager. We are the first standalone mono-brand watch boutique in Liverpool, something that we at DMR are extremely proud of.

35 St John Street, Liverpool L1 8BU; 0333 996 9987 HIGHLIGHT OF MY YEAR Going to the Olympics in Paris with Omega. And Rory McIlroy (an Omega ambassador) popping in to say hello!

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HOPSCOTCH COLLECTION

When David M Robinson first created the Hopscotch™ collection 13 years ago, it immediately took off as a beacon of enduring design flair. The vintage children’s game, traditionally played on a pattern of numbered chalked squares with a stone, involving jumping and hopping, was the playful inspiration for this contemporary interpretation of classic diamond jewellery. Throughout, it features princess-cut diamonds, which have a square appearance but are shaped like inverted pyramids on the underside to maximise the light in the stone’s reflections. The dazzling stones are set in the formation of the game.

The design family features luxurious pendants, earrings, necklaces and bangles, and includes the

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original iconic seven-stone ring, available in 18ct yellow gold, 18ct white-gold or platinum settings.

‘Hopscotch is one of our most recognisable collections,’ says Vix Smith, in-house designer at DMR. ‘In fact, it’s our most popular line,’ she adds. ‘Over the years, the collection has expanded to add 18ct gold sculptural pieces across a wide range of price points, including our High Jewellery creations with pieces such as a beautiful collar.’

It’s a chic and elegant design, guaranteed to be eye-catching as the diamonds flow and capture the light.

It’s also versatile, elevating a casual look for daytime or enhancing dressier eveningwear as the sparkling last detail. A regular on the red carpet, each bold and striking piece will turn heads. From a simple, irregularly set diamond drop pendant, to a diamond huggie earring, a circle pendant or seven-stone ring, every iteration – whether discreet or more statement – demonstrates the adventurous and imaginative thinking embodied in the design direction. The success of the Hopscotch™ family ‘is due to the elegant simplicity of the design and wearability for all occasions,’ says Vix. ‘It is a contemporary classic.’

From £2,000; davidmrobinson.co.uk

ABOVE The Hopscotch™ collection uses dazzling princess-cut diamonds to playful effect. B E LOW 18ct white gold, sevenstone ring, Hopscotch™

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