STYLE ISSUE 2

STYLE Spring The forward NEW BEAUTY RITUALS

ATrip

intoWonderland

With Helena Bonham Carter, Grace Slick, Joyce Carol Oates & Peter Blake

CONTENT MAY 2021

STYLE

72

Constance Jablonski wear Dior in ‘Fresh as a Daisy’

ON THE COVER

180 Spring forward: the new beauty rituals 124 A trip into Wonderland with Helena Bonham Carter, Grace Slick, Joyce, Carol Oates & Peter Blake 144 The Mitfords and me by Emily Mortimer

FEATURES

124 INSIDE THE WORLD OF ALICE Ahead of the V&A's surreal new exhibition, we celebrate Lewis Carroll's eternally fascinating novels 136 TO TELL THE TRUTH The actress and life-long activist Jane Fonda on tackling her biggest challenge: saving the environment 144 CALLING THE SHOTS We talk to Emily Mortimer as she moves behind the camera to adapt Nancy Mitford 's sparkling.

The Pursuit of Love for the BBC

FASHION

72 FRESH AS A DAISY Constance Jablonksi models diaphanous gowns in a light, bright palette 86 COLOUR MY WORLD Classic handbags in bold hues, Courtesy Of and Alexa Chung 90 ROCK N SOUL Laid-back pieces in shades of slate. sandstone and shale 108 STEP INTO WONDERLAND Discover Vivid fantasia Of eye-popping, mind-bending, Sio A-shifting florals STYLE

ACCESSORIES

60 RISE & SHINE Bags, brooches, heels, hats, Clogs, bangles and sandals — fabulous finishing touches for every occasion

Page

8 10

50 10 THINGS WE LOVE Daring fur and a galaxy of diamonds

Primrose Archer wears Versace in ‘Step into Wonderland’

BEAUTY

TRAVEL

UPDATE

151 FALL / WINTER 2021 Ready to wear. Opposites attract, Track stars, Loco for logos, Rainbow of nudes, Better half.

180 THE RITES OF SPRING Refresh 192 BEYOND THE SEA your routine with these seasonal In the footsteps of rituals for spruced-up make-up, Leonard Cohen and hair, fragrance and skin Marianne on the car-free Greek island 184 SEEING DOUBLE Identical 194 SHORE TO SHORE Pamper of Hydra twin BeckiMurray shares her yourself at glamorous pleasure experiences of exploring her palaces in Europe's most 194 HEART OF THE individuality through her alluring coastal destinations OCEAN Justine 196 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The Picardie savours fine 186 MY MOODBOARD The perfumer model Tina Kunakey explains and blissful tranquillity Rodrigo Flores-Roux plays with the why she loves the wild at Reid's Palace in many complex notes ofpatchouli in splendours of Brazil Funchal, Madeira his new creation for & Gabbana

Style EDITOR’S LETTER

SPRING

48

VALENTINO

BURBERRY

AWAKENING

LOUIS VUITTON

NO.21

GUCCI

Above: the shoot for the fashion story ’Fresh as a daisy’ (page 72). Right: a Miu Miu look in ‘Step into Wonderland’ (page 108)

On the desk in front of me is a little glass bowl of grape hyacinths, nestled in a bed of moss. They were sent to me by a fashion house, and over the past week, have watched. mes merised. as the florets slowly unfurled, scenting the air of my study with their faint, sweet fragrance.

Spring is always a joy, but right now, when it's still the only show in town, how thrilling it is!

Already, a verdant mist is smudging the stark tracery of the branches outside my window, while the throaty coo of courting wood pigeons in the wisteria acts as my morning reveille. And as nature emerges magnificently from hibernation, SO hope, do we, with an issue full of love and laughter, flowers and fashion, beauty and sunshine after 50 many months in the dark. In centuries gone by, the arrival of May was marked with dancing and dawn rising; on our beauty pages, we bring you the modern rituals to ensure a fresh complexion.

In fashion, too, we celebrate the season's natural glories, juxtaposing rocks and roses, softness and strength, while blooms in grass-green Dior on our newsstand cover.

Style EDITOR’S LETTER Right: an Hermès look in our fashion story ‘Rock ‘n’ soul’ (page 90). Below: a collage

by Helana Bonham Carter form ‘ Inide the world of Alice’ (page 124)

$8300 Bvlgari

$6300 Gucci

The past few months have undoubtedly had a some what surreal quality; which is why the imminent V& A’s major opening of the NICW exhibition about $4100 Bvlgari Alice in Wonderland seems 50 appropriate. On page $19600 Piaget 124 we dive down the rabbit hole to pay our own homage to the literary heroine, with contributions from an extraordinary array of Alice attionados. including Joyce Carol Oates, Grace Slick, Heston Blumenthal, Lauren Cuthbertson and Helena Bonham Carter who, along with Peter Blake, has illustrated our portEDITER‘S folio; you can find our limited-edition Alice cover CHOICES at the V&A and in their online shop.

And finally, it seems similarly appropriate that For a floral issue, it must be a we will shortly see a new adaptation of Nancy floral frock, i'll be queen of the May Mitford’s deliciously witty bestseller The Purin Gucci's bold blooms, teamed with suit of Love gracing our sereens; for the book flower-inspired diamonds. Smart was published in 1945. As the horrors of World Saint Laurent boots and a militaryWar I came to an end. Emily Mortimer, who has style coat in the season's favourite written and directed the series, explains to me on neutral shade add cripness page 144 why this nostalgic paean to lost England and authority remains just as relevant today. $2595 Saint Laurent

CELINE

CELINE

CELINE

$1595 Saint Laurent

$1490 Piaget

CELINE

$2600 Gucci

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STYLE Edited by DANTE PHAM

10 THINGS WE LOVE

Johanna Ortiz S/S 21

The summer seasonbrings exquisite embroidery, iridescent accessories and dynamic details…

1

ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE Johanna Ortiz’s clothes have always had a strong sense of place; her botanical prints and ruffled silhouettes couldn’t be the products of a Northerner. That puts the Colombian designer at an advantage in our new normal. With so many of us grounded by COVID travel restrictions, fashion is taking on an expanded role. As much as we’d like to, most of us aren’t going to the tropics anytime soon, but slipping into a blockprint JO dress acquiring a made from Iraca palm fibers by artisans from Sandoná-Nariño, are decent substitutes.

$568 Chloé

2 $166 Oséree

$2555 Brunello Cucinelli

to

ag pie .

m

$666 Simone Rocha

$687 A.W.A.K.E. Mode

CHANEL

$586 Fendi

$742 Fendi

VALENTINO

r T a h is season has of a le c ce ve, i s te s o p r orat i c e e s : d a le nd g uzz old.

These precious p

ea l tr easure trove ath ia er af f trim r iec n m e d w ov e es le are ab n o i perfe ct for the fash

$600 Gucci

‘When you talk about couture, you talk about

dreams’, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele says of a the sublime colour-drenched collection with Balenciaga in Gucci Aria

BURBERRY

GUCCI

PE R FECT COMBINAT I O N

ALBERTA FERRETTI

3

4

B OL D A N D B R I LL I A N T It's time to get a bit extra with eveningwear: from Chanel to Gucci and Burberry, pre-fall embraced a super-shiny, super-fun spirit of maximalism.

51

5

The spectacular revival of the high fashion

empire Saint Laurent under the hands of Anthony Vaccarello.

After 4 years he blew a new wind

into the Saint Laurent, different from

52

what the Hedi Slimane had ever created.

6

Ring, $29.308 Dolce & Gabbana

Earrings, $1,101 Philipp Plein

Earrings, $1.920 David Yurman x Ramadan

Ring, $5,079 Charlotte Chesnais

Bracelet, $301 Tory Burch

Cap s je ’ so n g a this sea A ai p ple a sim

co tinum tails, sm o s.

Necklace, $2,765 Dolce & Gabbana

la

ed p ng i we in clus l i ters or tra he la ls ta mt

tur

ro

7

Dear to Alessandro Michele, every Beloved design is linked to the House’s past, which the Creative Director has brought into the present, imbuing in each piece the notion of a cherished wardrobe essential to return to, season after season.

Necklace, $36,017 De Beers

Earrings, $930 Versace

G U CC I B E LOV E D

8

S U M M ER F LO R A LS Groundbreaking, we know. But Alice + Olivia’s take on this fashion perennial is so beautiful it could make the most cynical minimalists reconsider.

xy

k o of g e their cue fr but ly. fs tar ems is spectacular aven ry s y he tuds lo oks equall

Bracelet, $1,156 Tateossian

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DOLCE & GABBANA

FENDI

CHRISTIAN DIOR

CHANEL

9 VERSACE

NDERS S M A L L WO es

to wear the cloth

10

thing

CHLOE

kely We may be unli

best es are the next

re accessori , but these coutu

THE FUR

BURBERRY

FENDI

N EW

Less fantastical, perhaps, but good inspiration all the same: pre-fall showed us countless fresh ways to wear artificial fur, from Fendi’s velvet and knit cardigan to Stella’s tie-dye shorts suit and Chloé’s smart double-denim suiting 54

55

MY MOODBOARD Maria Grazia Chiuri looks to the arcana of tarot cards for Dior’s magical haute couture spring/summer 2021 collection

The Dior haute couture S/S 21 moodboard and looks from the collection

56

Christian Dior was famously superstitious, putting his trust in fortune-tellers throughout his career, After deepening her study of tarot during lockdown, the house’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired to use its symbols in her S/S21 haute couture presentation. ‘I admire the card for their poetic beauty, but also beacause they construct a narrative that evolves over time and according to our frame of mind,’ she says. The film of the collection revealed a series of dreamlike creations, including a high-necked silk dress for the character of the justice, and a regal robe and crown for the High Priestess. ‘ Each card invites infinite reading,’ she says. ‘And in the same way, the pieces really come to life whenyou war them and make them your own.’

LUCY HAlFHEAD

MOODBOARD Clips, $75, Valet Chrissy

WHEN THE SIZE MAKE A DIFFERENCE

FENDI

Woven sun hat, $300 Eric Javits Valeria

Bikini top, $83 She Made Me

FENDI

Handmade shopping bag, $104 Sensi Studio

Block-print maxi dress, $357, Rebecca Taylor

Floral-print button-up, $180 Collina Strada Mariposa

Silk Scarf, $78, Tory Borch

Babing woven tote, $290, Wicker Wings

Cat-eye sunglasses, $98 Chimi

Jean short, $70, Madewell

SPOT ON THE STREET Gucci turns 100 this year

57

ACCESSORIES $890 Saint Laurent Paris

60

ACCESSORIES

$520 Dior

$320 Balenciaga Necklace, $13600 Louis Vuitton

$260 Balenciaga

$3200 Fendi

Bracelet, $550, Fendi

$590 Saint Laurent Paris

$950 Prada

$980 Fendi

Earing $550 Fendi

Sracf $880 Hermés

$3600 Dior

$6200 Celine

$2860 Louis Vuitton

$550 Fendi

Ring $3150 Louis Vuitton

$1125 Chanel $1650 Givenchy $995 Versace

$3800 Dior

Sracf $250 Dior $3700 Prada

$3900 Louis Vuitton

$950 Dolce & Gabbana $780 Saint Laurent Paris

$1595 Givenchy

61

$970 Hermèr

64

ACCESSORIES

$270 Balenciaga

$615 Gucci

$470 Etro

$520 Dior $1150 Dior $1150 Dior

$6100 Louis Vuitton

$4800 Louis Vuitton

$3800 Gucci

$1200 Dior

Brooch, $400 Gucci $690 Celine $400 Celine $435 Dior $795 Saint Laurent Paris $690 Gucci

$1140 Louis Vuitton

$660 Dior

Brooch, $660 Dior $3800 Dior

$450 Celine $1790 Alexander Mcqueen

$818 Alberta Ferretti

Bracelet, $445 Saint Laurent Paris

65

$1890 Gucci

66

Bracelet, $2950 Louis Vuitton Scarf, $330 Dior

ACCESSORIES

$535 Gucci

$2095 Dolce & Gabbana $990 Loewe

$390 Erdem $795 Salvatore Ferragamo

$160 Burberry

$1490 Chloé $930 Bottega Veneta

$1410 Annoushka

$1190 Fendi $417 Marni

$1850 Loewe

$450 Etro

$3600 Louis Vuitton $980 Bottega Veneta $28000 Fendi

$795 Chloé

Hair-clip, $90 Shrimps

Ring, $3450 Louis Vuitton

Hair-clip, $315 Erdem

Ring, $29500 Annoushka

$945 Manolo Blahnik

$385 Tory Bucrh

$3995 Dolce & Gabbana

$335 Erdem

$25100 Louis Vuitton

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STYLE

UPDATE

F/W

21 R EA DY- TO-W E A R

Style UPDATE

STYLE

Ready to wear

THE NEW, THE next in f/w 2021

Gucci aria

WITH BALENCIAGA

158

UPDATE Style

GENNY

GIVENCHY

VALENTINO

ALBERTA FERRETTI

And fall / winter is ... COMMING We will never shake the ‘back to school’ feeling when september hits, will we? (Who doesn’t love investing in a new pencil case – or, ahem, bag – and blazer?) We’re not the only ones, clearly, as SS21 runways were packed with riffs on school uniforms. At Valentino, models wore ties in a pick ’n’ mix assortment of black and white; Rokh did Hogwarts-gone-high-fashion; and Givenchy featured modern-day in strong monochrome looks with silk hairbands. It’s time to go back to school.

159

Style UPDATE

CHANEL

The collection is infused with “ski spirit”: Norwegian sweaters, quilted salopettes, voluminous puffers, and ski pants worn with short cropped jackets that Viard has styled either with the midriff bared or with the nightclubfriendly flowered black lace camisoles that also crop up under fluid knit suits or paired with a 2/55 quilted satin miniskirt. There are midi-length crochet skirts, and suits shined with panels of sequin fabric and layers of fringing at the cuff.

Viard was also inspired by Chanel’s fall 1994 collection, which featured conspicuously fakefur suits and coats, and reimagined the pieces in black, white, and hot pink shearling. She said that she had been watching Jean-Baptiste Mondino’s iconic 1985 video for Bryan Ferry’s “Slave to Love,” featuring the fabulous models Christine Bergström, Marpessa Hennink, and Laurence Treil—she even cast the young French model Lola for her resemblance to the wonderful, widemouthed Treil—and her last look, a gold trench coat, styled with a felt fedora (with shearling flaps), might have stepped right out of it.

160

UPDATE Style

GUCCI

Gucci turns 100 this year. Michele’s new collection is a celebration of that milestone, and in his fashion it’s a fabulously idiosyncratic one. Not unexpectedly it reexamines the house’s history; this is standard operating procedure on anniversaries. Michele picked up on Gucci’s equestrian codes, giving them a fetishistic spin— one model cracked their whip as they made their way down the runway. He also reprised one of Tom Ford’s greatest hits, the red velvet tuxedo from fall 1996 that Michele said “made Gwyneth Paltrow famous,” with tweaks including new, more pronounced shoulders, a leather harness, and versions for both men and women.

More surprising were the pieces that Michele lifted—or “quoted,” to use the company parlance—from Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga, another brand in the Kering stable.

As the show began and social media started pinging with chatter about the collaboration, a press representative clarified that this was not in fact one of fashion’s familiar hookups but rather the first output from Michele’s socalled hacking lab. With Gvasalia’s permission, Michele used some of the Balenciaga designer’s iconic shapes and symbols, including the padded hip jacket of fall 2016 and spring 2017’s spandex peplum top and leggings. All these things mixed and mingled with his own symbols—glitter for day, copious amounts of marabou, and anatomical heart minaudières encrusted with rhinestones— alongside a vital new emphasis on classic tailoring.

161

Style UPDATE

FENDI

Last month at couture the English designer Kim Jones evoked a story long meaningful to him, cast it with those he considers friends and family, and articulated it through his newlyassumed role at Fendi. Today that dynamic was neatly flipped. For his first women’s ready-towear show Jones delved deep into some of the stories most meaningful to the Roman house— hat-tipping along the way the many people who previously helped shape it—and thus began in earnest the process of adding his new voice to that narrative.

The models walked through a group of Damien Hirst-ish, F-shaped vitrines in which were scattered a multitude of apparent architectural fragments not unlike those that ornament the Roman Forum. The looks were all in neutral shades, both to reflect the mineral colors of the city and the organic shades that have dominated in Fendi’s history. Each evoked fragments of the different creative voices that have filled Fendi’s own creative forum; we were sightseeing Fendi through Jones’s eyes.

162

UPDATE Style

HERMÈS

In today’s unfolding of events, Vanhee-Cybulski’s ambitious plan to defy physical distance worked seamlessly. “It’s urgent now to live again,” she said. “The message to the world is that I have this conviction of designing clothes for a confident woman. It was about resilience.” Pandemic be damned, she’d resolved to give the traditional rite of the Paris Fashion Week runway show its due (since there’s nothing more vital than upholding Hermès tradition), while also reaching out to touch audiences that can’t travel. For Vanhee-Cybulski, the point in collaborating with two women choreographers was to place the creative female gaze center stage. “Each of them has her own way of expressing female power,” she said.

Hollander’s piece observed forward motion and gestures of women walking in New York. Jiani’s was an athletically intense conceptual fusion of Chinese dance tradition and Western ballroom dancing. The unifying presence of the house of Hermès was signaled in the sets—orange drapes in New York; stacks of orange boxes landscaped into the Paris set; orange boxes integrated into the performance in China. A making-of documentary by French director Sébastien Lifshitz detailed the weeks of planning across locations and time zones.

163

CHANEL

BURBERRY

FENDI

GUCCI

HERMES

GUCCI

Style UPDATE

$980, Gucci

$975, Givenchy

164

$690, Burberry

$980, Valentino

UPDATE Style

Left: Blazer, $2695, Chloé.

Below: Shirt, $795, Chloé.

Right: Blazer, $2500, Gucci Below: Shirt, $1300, Gucci

PAIR with PAIR with

Opposites ATTRACT Masculine blazer plus pretty blouse equals an irresistible pairing

PAIR with

GUCCI

VALENTINO

PRADA

Above: Blazer, $3490, Valentino.

Right: Shirt, $1250, Valentino.

PAIR with

Above: Blazer, $3790, Saint Laurent.

Left: Shirt, $1790, Saint Laurent.

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Style UPDATE

166

DIOR

UPDATE Style

Above: Sunglasses, $320, Gental Monster.

Below: from top, Dress, $1450, Burberry.

Shoes, $750, Gucci.

Above: Hat , $695, Saint Laurent Right: from top, Jacket, $1800, Gucci x The North Face.

Shoes, $1868, Manolo Blahnik Below: Shoes, $975, Givenchy.

Track STARS Sporty looks with elevating embellishment are a win-win

BALMAIN

AMI

COURRÈGES

ATLEIN

Above: Sweater, $1200, Gucci x Ken Scott.

Right: Skirts, $6300, Prada.

Below: Shoes, $995, Miu Miu.

167

Style UPDATE

168

UPDATE Style Cape, $4070.

Dress, $2540.

Turtleneck sweater, $1100. All Prada

Loco for

LOGOS Shout or whisper their names, but wear your fashion-tribe brands with pride

Clockwise from above: earrings, $750, Celine.

Sweater, $1450, Gucci x Disney Donald Duck.

Shirt, $1050, Balenciaga.

Clockwise from above: sunglasses, $430, Loewe.

Embroidery leather bag, $3750, Fendi. Monogrammed leather bag, $1820, Louis Vuitton.

Sandals, $745, Saint Laurent

169

Style UPDATE 4

2 1

BURBERRY

3

AMI

5

HERMES

ALBERTA FERRETTI

7

FENDI

8

COURRÈGES

AMI

FENDI

6

“The most flattering shade is often the one closest to your skin tone. This season, seek out your perfect match” 1 Cardigan, $385, Agnes. 2 Short, $1290, Saint Laurent. 3 Shirt, $381, MK. 4 Coat, $3990, Alexander McQueen.

5 Top, $695, Rick Owens. 6 Skirt, $300, Totême. 7 Shoes, $670, Jacquemus. 8 Dress, $238, Agni 170

UPDATE Style

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Style UPDATE

172

UPDATE Style

Above, from top: Necklace, $2300, Chanel. Sandals, $470, Birkenstock 1774.

Blazer, $1682, Haider Ackermann .

Pant, $1236, Haider Ackermann .

BURBERRY

VALENTINO

“Two-tone accessories – such as Chanel’s ridiculously good handbag – present the perfect entry point for those with a proclivity for the darker side of dressing

Above, from top: sunglasses, $320, Gigi Studios. Shoes, $865, Manolo Blahnik. Watch, $20175, Hermès.

Belted dress, $1100, Taller Marmo. Bag, $6600, Chanel.

173

Style UPDATE

Gucci, $2450

Fendi, $2100

Burberry, $2290

Celine, $2300

Chanel, $7200

MUST HAVE

In mini, midi, and large versions, fashion houses are reinventing their iconic bags, sometimes in a casual spirit with modular cuts and a practical format, sometimes in a more couture-oriented vein, with clean lines and leather stitching. Between models that rely on solid values and those which draw the card of originality, there’s something for everyone. One thing’s for sure – these bags are the must-haves of this fall 174

SAINT LAURENT

UPDATE Style

Saint Laurent, $395

Saint Laurent, $790

Saint Laurent, $1790

Saint Laurent, $1390

Saint Laurent, $1890

Saint Laurent, $1790

Saint Laurent, $1090

Saint Laurent, $1890

SAINT LAURENT

Saint Laurent, $295

WORK WEAR

This season’s NECK BLOUSE shirts are super cool and can style office friendly a la the stylish Saint Laurent with a pair nice pants and elegant earrings. + 3 EXTRA CONTRASTS

SAINT LAURENT

NOTE

Nice notebook to your desktop.

Notebook, Appointed, $24.

The variegated shirt calls on a minimalist bag.

Bag, Saint Laurent, $1792

EARTHLY

Keep the look casual with a pair flat, chunky sandals.

Sandals, Saint Laurent, $697

SUNKISSED SKIN Long days in the office?

Cheat yourself to a beautiful summer glow!

‘Laguna’ sunshine powder, Nars at Sephora, $38

175

Style UPDATE

Celine, $12600

Celine, $840

Celine, $890

Celine, $1100 Celine, $790

Celine, $3400

176

STREETSTYLE

UPDATE Style

Coat, Bottega Veneta, $9225

Croptop, Chanel, $5734

GIVENCHY

SHOPPING TRENDING

Belt, Etro , $1022

Dress, Marchesa, $8296

Earings, Natasha Zinko, $6876 Necklace, Dolce & Gabbana, $2300 T-shirt, Moschino, $298

Skirt, Prada, $3315

Hat, Nick Fouquet, $1580

Necklace, Shaun Leane, $4047

Miniskirt, Alexandre Vauthier, $3010

Bodysuit, Alexandre Vauthier, $3010 Dress, Marchesa, $9122

Boots, Saint Laurent, $1664

Shirt, Dice Kayek, $2280 Scarf, Burberry, $1453

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