Street April 24, 2014

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The Daily Princetonian

Thursday April 24, 2014

PAGE DESIGN BY LIN KING :: ASSOCIATE STREET EDITOR

I

FOOD

f you’re a fan of Chef Scott Anderson’s work, but not so much of Elements’ price tag, Mistral gives you the perfect opportunity to sample some of his amazing creations on a budget. Tucked into a corner next to the UPS Store, Mistral is easy to overlook but hard to forget. Though the storefront is unassuming enough, there is a simple charm to the airy layout and the direct view of the kitchen from the spacious bar seating. I personally chose to sit at the bar to get a front row seat on all the action, and throughout the meal, my food was passed to me over the bar by the person who had prepared it. Mistral operates on a “small plates” concept, meaning that most customers are expected to order at least two to three dishes per meal. Plates range in price from about $8-$24. While the serving sizes were rather small, my friend and I felt very full ordering two entrées each and sharing an appetizer and dessert. One should note, however, that sizes can differ significantly between items. Order only seafood, for instance, and you may leave the restaurant with both an empty wallet and an empty stomach. The service itself was quick and excellent. On the whole, I never felt like I was waiting or rushed during my time at Mistral. At almost every moment, I was either working through a dish or

had just finished one. Moreover, the friendly servers were knowledgeable about every facet of the menu despite its changing constantly with the seasons and tastes of the chef. If you order only one thing, I would make it the BBQ Korean octopus, which was recommended by the server as a perennial favorite. It arrived sizzling on a slab of black slate, served on top of rice, scallions and pickled shiitake mushrooms. Think buttered lobster for texture and kimchi for flavor. I wouldn’t recommend it for those who can’t handle a little heat, but the spicy sauce definitely delivered one of the most intense and gratifying flavor profiles of the meal. The goat cheese cannelloni entrée was an unexpected success. The flaky texture of the cannelloni shell and the perfect temperature of the warm goat cheese inside pleasantly surprised me. Combined with maitake mushrooms, puntarelle and leeks, it left me wanting more despite having professed my inability to eat another bite seconds before. For dessert, I went with the goat cheesecake, which was delicately plated and then artfully topped with a number of garnishes, from fresh grapefruit and hazelnuts to sprigs of anise. The goat cheese gave the body of the cake more texture while being more airy than most cheesecakes, and tamed the sweet-

DESPAÑA E

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ven before setting foot into Despaña, diners can see through the window shelves stacked almost up to the ceiling, filled with imported Spanish foods in jars, cans and boxes. This sets the atmosphere for the cozy Spanish restaurant, which can be very busy during peak dinner hours, so a reservation is highly recommended. Although I had a reservation, my guest and I had to wait for several minutes before the hostess showed us to our seats. After we were seated, service was slow to bring us menus and beverages. Fortunately, after we ordered our food, the service became much more prompt and reliable. My guest and I ordered buñuelos de bacalao — deep-fried cod fritters — and a platter of ibérico-style cured meats to start, as well as a paella. Despaña also provides complimentary fresh bread and olive oil for diners to munch on while waiting for dishes to arrive. The bread, while not especially remarkable, came to the table warm, and the waitress was attentive to refill the basket when it was empty. The cured meats platter contained three types of acorn-fed pork: cured pork loin, chorizo and sausage. The sausage had a very subtle taste and was not at all greasy. The chorizo was tender and

flavorful but slightly oily. However, the pork loin was the star of this tapas platter. With a firm bite and a rich, meaty flavor, the sliced pork loin stood out from its peers on this plate. Next to arrive were the cod fritters, accompanied by a “chef’s secret sauce.” With an excellent balance of batter to fish, the fritters were fried perfectly – just enough to make the batter crispy without weighing down the delicate fish. Finally, the paella arrived. Despaña offers five varieties of paella, and ours was the paella mixta, which contains chorizo, chicken, sea bass and shrimp. Despaña takes its paella very seriously, as evidenced by the “Paella Manifesto” printed in the menus. This paella contained generous portions of meats and vegetables. The sea bass was especially

Pros: Delicious food;

comfortable atmosphere. Cons: Initially slow service

during peak hours.

ness of the fruity layer of gelatin on top. The grapefruit garnishes added a sour kick, and the hazelnuts a layer of earthiness that grounded the flavor. I finished feeling a little less guilty than I usually do after a rich, decadent dessert. Though I enjoyed just about every moment of my meal, I have to admit that my experience was soured ever so slightly when I got the bill. For all of its low-cost options, Mistral remains a cut above the average college student’s budget. The rosemary-thyme biscotti that accompanied the check helped a little. But only a little.

MISTRAL ANNIE TAO Senior Writer

Pros: Excellent value; beautiful

presentation; attentive service; smaller servings. Cons: Still pricy; smaller

servings.

Mistral isn’t a restaurant you go to on any average day; it’s a place to go when you’re looking to treat yourself to something a little different. If you’re sick and tired of the same old options on Nassau Street, a trip to Mistral could be the change you’ve been looking for.

OLIVER SUN

Senior Writer

impressive: cooked to soft and tender perfection, with the broth infusing the meat with the paella’s distinct flavor. The waitress also came by to scrape the socarrat – the caramelized rice at the bottom of the paella pan – and mix it into the rest of the paella. As she did so, we could smell the much deeper aroma of the socarrat, which had soaked up the broth from the paella and now filled the rest of the dish with its rich fragrance. The chefs at Despaña definitely know how to make paella. For dessert, my guest and I split a goat cheese cheesecake and a “tarta de Santiago,” an almond cake. The cheesecake tasted like its more common cousin, but with the distinctive tanginess of the goat cheese. The tarta impressed us with how well it incorporated the almond essence: Each bite of cake contained the almonds’ sweet aroma. Diners at Despaña should remember to save room for dessert! Overall, the food at Despaña was exceptionally good. The atmosphere is comfortable but not too formal — perfect for a casual meal to share some tapas with friends. While the service started out slow, our waitress was very attentive throughout the meal. I will definitely be returning to this paragon of Spanish cuisine — with a reservation, of course.

ANNIE TAO :: SENIOR WRITER


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