february 25–27, 2019
c ot e r ie e d it io n
nicole
miller’s hands-on approach
to success
the brands the
buzz the
influencers
plus!
the news in shoes
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DOUTZEN KROES FOR
FW19 COLLECTION BOOTH #6515, LEVEL 3 110 Greene Street, Suite 605 I New York, NY 10012 (212) 957-6002 I repeatusa@repeatgroup.com
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FALL/WINTER 19 February 25 – 27 Coterie Booth #7957 Javits, Level 3
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The Agent R.E.D International checklist of brands to see at Coterie Well-seasoned fashion insider and founder of Agent R.E.D. International highlights her well edited brand picks at Coterie
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Avoid trend at all costs. True style is not about trends it’s about beautiful clothing that pervades a faddish moment.
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gent R.E.D. International Founder, Genie ParadaFishman, approaches every new season with a vibrant enthusiasm. A true New Yorker, the city’s exuberant energy and eclecticism proves endlessly inspiring for Genie and it clearly translates into her vision for the showroom.
Agent R.E.D. International offers a unique perspective, showcasing American and International brands that allow a retailer to differentiate their assortment with striking product. These are pieces your ladies will have on constant rotation in their closets. Agent R.E.D. International brands have staying power in a transient world. It’s refreshing and inspiring to find designers that produce fashion that is truly worth buying and worth keeping in our closets for more than a season. Our brands have a soul and a story to tell… We have cultivated a loyal clientele that comes to us because they truly have style, love fashion and strive to make their store a destination place to shop. agentredintl.com • Instagram @agentredintl
Velvet Heart is about must-have items for any casual lifestyle.
With its flattering cuts, novel details, and gorgeous fabrics, Velvet Heart’s shirtings, dresses, jeans, and jackets are on trend and highly desirable. Best of all, it carries an affordable price tag, proving that style does not have to mean “expensive.” BOOTH #8123 • Instagram @velvetheartclothing
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Velvet Heart’s focus is on its abundance of playful novelty prints that are created by in-house artists exclusively for Velvet Heart as well as the fantastic new knitwear capsule!
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Capote has garnered a following for its consistently exciting approach to casual and very chic fashion.
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The explosive and consistent success of XCVI lies in its ability to resonate with so many types of women.
Founder, Gita Zeltzer, and designer, Lilia Gorodnitski, manifest a shared vision: to develop wearable, moveable, breathable clothing for women who believe in style as well as comfort. XCVI is about items she chooses repeatedly because she feels so great in them. BOOTH #8117 • Instagram @xcviofficial
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Capote’s versatile items offer coziness and comfort while being grand and luxurious with its magnificent faux fur trims, which look and feel so real it’s almost unbelieved that they are not! Creative Director and Founder Evelyn Riddle is a trained tailor, so her fits are extremely important. She wants a woman to look and feel her best. Her clothes offer strategic draping so as to flatter and hide as necessary… the ladies that wear Capote come back every season to see how the collection evolves so they can continue to enhance their wardrobe with additional must have pieces. BOOTH #8222 • Instagram @capotecollection
Capote is the one brand that is literally suited for any woman, any age, any size.
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XCVI is all about timeless looks, channeling the balance of comfort and style.
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dailyQuiz
“Testing you is loving you!”
are you
up to
chic? Do you know your Sergio from your Santo, your Karl from your Karlie, your Leandra from your Leonard? Take the test!
Grace Elizabeth backstage at the Versace Pre-Fall 2019 show
photography by kevin tachman
1. What’s not new with Joseph Altuzarra? 4. Approximately how much did Kylie 7. LVMH is rumored to be partnering Jenner spend on food delivery (bagels with which celebrity to launch her 2. about Which of the following tidbits Vogue Business is not true? A. It has a staff of 24, with only six of those positions on the editorial side B. Its editor is Lauren Indvik C. It will live under the Condé Nast International umbrella D. A subscription costs $129.99 a month (plus a free Vogue tote bag)
3. Versace had a new show location! Where did Donatella reveal the Fall ’19 collection?
A. The Bourse in Milan B. Spring Studios right here in New York! C. On board Michael Kors’ yacht, which is docked at his home on Long Island D. Darren Criss’s backyard in Los Angeles
from The Bagel Broker, etc.) from Postmates in 2018?
A. $10,000 B. $18,000 C. $114,000 D. $265,000, including a 200-person Thanksgiving dinner order for a local homeless shelter
5. C’est qui, Bruno Sialelli?
A. Dawn Ostroff’s replacement at Condé Nast B. The dude at the FTC who’s cracking down on paid Instagram posts C. The new creative director of Lanvin D. The guy who founded Tone House, our new go-to sweatfest
own brand—the first that the French conglomerate has done since Christian Lacroix back in 1987? A. Reese Witherspoon B. Rihanna C. Cardi B D. Lady Gaga
8. Who is Jeffrey Monteiro?
A. The former creative director of Bill Blass B. The founder of J.M. Generals, an e-tailer that sells “products and essentials for conscious living” C. A designer who worked for both Jane Mayle and Derek Lam D. All of the above
6.each According to Vogue UK, which models 9. Which of these headlines has not earned $11.5 million in 2018? appeared on goop.com in recent months? A. Chrissy Teigen and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley B. Doutzen Kroes and Lily-Rose Depp C. Chanel Iman and Karlie Kloss D. Alexa Chung and Cara Delevingne
A. Is Traffic a Public Health Issue? B. A Therapist on Polyamory and Consensual Nonmonogamy C. Introspection Intersection: Why Goop Is Far More Self-Aware Than It Appears D. America’s Sex Recession + Other Stories
0–3 CORRECT ANSWERS
4–6 CORRECT ANSWERS
7–9 CORRECT ANSWERS
YOU ARE…THE CARDIGANS
YOU ARE…A CARDIGAN
YOU ARE…CARDI B
You Swedish sensations were all the rage in the ’90s, but your fashion savvy is essentially nonexistent. Read fashionweekdaily.com with quasireligious fervor…and a few prayers for redemption won’t hurt, either!
You’ve been a mainstay on the fashion scene since the dawn of time, but you’re not exactly a trend at this moment. Check out our NYFW coverage at issuu.com to ensure that you’re as up-to-speed as is fashionably possible!
You’re the talk of the town, a riotous star, and a fashion rebel for the ages. Let’s catch up in the front row, mmmkay?
GUTTER CREDITS tk
A. A pop-up on Madison Avenue B. A 10th-anniversary celebration C. A chic new bag called the “Play” D. A small but essential role in the next Bradley Cooper film
ANSWERS: 1. D; 2. D; 3. A; 4. A; 5. C; 6. A; 7. B; 8. D; 9. C FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Alexander Lundqvist Olivia Ri’chard, Munira Zulka, and Ashley Stuart Pablo Kaestli
Sam Evans and Lucas Kerr
Chris Flora and Anthony Flora
Emrhys Cooper and Garrett Neff
Betsy Jones and George Wayne
Jenny Albright
Jake Dietrich and Eddie Roche
Douglas Joseph, Mariah Strongin, and Tobias Sorensen
Jazmin Grace Grimaldi and Ian Mellencamp
French
FRENCH CONNECTION Coterie Booth 580, Level 1
Class
Sophie and Charlotte Bickley Daiane Sodre
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW WERNER
GUTTER CREDITS tk
French Connection and The Daily hosted a soirée at the brand’s Soho flagship. Chicsters including Garrett Neff, Alexander and Keytt Lundqvist, Mariah Strongin, Jazmin Grace Grimaldi, and Tobias Sorensen sipped and shopped while DJ Huggy Bear provided the jams.
Creative Casualty
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Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
TOMO KOIZUMI
Chief Content Officer Executive Editor & Director, Strategic Partnerships Eddie Roche Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Dean Quigley
scene
With Katie Grand AT New York Fashion Week How did you find Tomo Koizumi? About three months ago, Giles Deacon sent me one of Tomo’s pictures on Instagram. We borrowed some stuff for LOVE and Tomo didn’t know what to do with the clothes, so he said to just keep them in our office. He started posting some more extravagant pieces, and I texted him and said, “Take that picture down! We’re going to do a show!” Have you done something like this before? Marc [Jacobs] and I helped Matty Bovan in his first season. It’s actually more exciting to do it in New York—it felt much more proper and grown-up. Marc Jacobs was so supportive of this!
NYFW is done, but Coterie is just getting started! Here are some fun moments you may have missed. Plus! Be sure to stop by The Daily and UBM’s Fashion Influencer panel at 5:30 p.m. this Monday on the North Concourse to get the dish on all things Insta-worthy, courtesy Danielle Bernstein, Lainy Hedaya, William Graper, Grace Atwood, Jen Powell, Coterie’s Danielle Licata, and moderated by Aliza Licht!
MAN DU MOMENT! With Tomo Koizumi You were discovered via Instagram! It was unbelievable. I had never done a fashion show. I was nervous. Katie Grand is so nice. I was trying my best, and I think I did my best! What have you learned from working with Katie? Working with happy and nice people is the best way. How will you celebrate? I’m going to drink wine!
Karolina Kurkova If they’re friends, good for them! As long as they’re happy! I don’t get involved. Glenda Bailey Good for him. He knows a good thing. Life’s too short. You should just enjoy the relationships and be happy and positive for people in their celebrations.
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
TV TALK! With Ashley Graham at NYFW What’s new? Are you watching American Beauty Star on Lifetime? We have a live finale coming up. Do you get nervous to do live TV? I love live! It puts that little extra pressure on you to be even better. Are we seeing more curvy girls on the runway this season? I think so. The 11 Honoré show kicked off NY Fashion Week, and that was a big statement. There are designers who are creating dresses for us, and it needs to be the new norm. Our bodies are beautiful!
Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro
Imaging Specialist George Maier
Wes Gordon Why not? Water under the bridge. Do it! Whatever! Ken Downing Happy birthday, Jennifer Aniston! I love that! Were they not the cutest couple? They sure would look as great today together as they did then. Nina Agdal It’s cute! I’m friends with most of my exes, except for a couple. You could probably guess [which ones]!
With Christian Siriano at NYfw
Kelli Giddish, Debra Messing, Mariska Hargitay, and Christina Hendricks
West Coast Editor-at-Large, Fashion & Beauty Partnerships Jordan Duffy
Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise
DESIGN DISH!
Christina Ricci
Fashion News Editor Aria Darcella
Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts
aily D e h … T act f e Wonders s on th
t d Thoughd Pitt attende ? h a t r 0 B 5 t tha ton’s is n A r Jennife
Digital Director Charles Manning
Why did you pick this venue? It’s so New York. The idea of the collection was futurism, so I liked that we were elevated in the sky. You probably disappointed a lot of tourists today… Totally! But people could still come up on the other side. Post-show plans? A party at Tao!
Interns Caitlyn Mae Arana, Ryan McDevitt, Victoria Montalti, Thea Pekarek
Mark Tevis
Senior Advisor Senior Director, Brand Partnerships Betsy Jones Executive Sales Director Carrie Brudner Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman Publishing & Market Research Nandini Vaid Digital Operations Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.
CANDY COATED
Forget florals for Spring—there’s a much sweeter way to have fun with color this season, and it’s with these chic candyhued totes from Beck Bags! You can see a selection of all the new colors at Coterie Booth 7128, Level 3.
On the cover: Nicole Miller with model Emma Atterholm wearing the designer’s Fall 2019 collection at the Nicole Miller showroom, photographed by Caroline Fiss.
g e tty imag e s ( 8 ) ; fi r st v i e w ( 4 ) ; sh u tt e r stock ; all oth e r s co u r t e sy
TALENT WATCH!
Contributing Editor Alexandra Ilyashov
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Tel: 212.938.0020 Fax: 212.938.0022 lisaattea@iftheplanet.com www.PlanetByLaurenG.com
Booth 6768
SHOWROOMS DALLAS L.A. N.Y.
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FASHIONMaverick Danielle Licata
The
greatest
show BY Aria Darcella
SHOWTIME The unforgettable atmosphere of Coterie.
What’s the story behind The Daily x Coterie’s Fashion Influencer Panel on February 25th? What are you hoping that brands and retailers will learn? Everyone knows that social media is a mandatory part of telling your story, and brands have identified that influencers are a key means of getting eyes on new products. That being said, so many questions surround this topic: What are best practices? Who are the right partners? What is the optimal budget for a meaningful campaign? I hope we can answer these questions and more. This panel also benefits both stores and brands, which allows us to cover our entire marketplace. Plus, there will be a large concentration of influencers in the audience for brands to mix with for future collaborations. What influencers do you follow, and what do you like about them? The influencers I enjoy the most are the ones who share funny and irreverent things about their lives, in addition to posting about fashion. I follow a diverse group of large and small global fashion influencers, some of whom we have had the pleasure to work with—Chiara Ferragni [@chiaraferragni] and her blog, The Blonde Salad [@theblondesalad], as well as F*hits [@fhits], Ania Boniecka [@aniab], Tina Craig [@bagsnob], and Mimi Elashiry [@mimielashiry]. I also follow @weworewhat and am excited to have [founder] Danielle Bernstein joining the panel. What else are you looking forward to this season? We have some great educational panels covering
subjects from sustainability to women’s empowerment. Also, our shoppable vintage and beauty sections are back again and even better than ever. How does Coterie’s February event differ from the September show? From a product perspective, the February edition is always a bit richer, from a fabrication and design point of view. And you can always depend on Coterie for a wide array of knit resources, which have robust February collections on display. Do you get to mingle with the brands and retailers who come to the show? What kinds of things do you learn from them? Meeting brands and retailers from all over the country— and the world!—is one of my favorite things about this business. I’m a bit of a foodie, and I travel a lot. I always appreciate tips on where to find a great local restaurant, spa/salon, or must-see attraction for cities that I either frequent or plan to visit. Have you done any traveling since we chatted last season? The holidays feel like a distant memory at this point, because we have had some sizable shows already this year. But before the holidays came, we had quite a few big trips—we hit Brazil, Colombia, and Australia in October and November. They are key focus countries for us throughout our 2019 events. How do you keep your energy up during Coterie? A great deal of coffee! The teams work so incredibly
hard for months to put an event the size of Coterie together, so once it comes, we are all running on adrenaline and caffeine. Our Beauty@COTERIE neighborhood has been helpful, as well. We all look forward to discovering new products that we can buy on the spot to take home and pamper ourselves with during this challenging week! What are you hoping to see from the booths this time? Do you ever make a mental shopping list? I’m hoping to see fresh, bold, creative, and colorful product. The energy of the buyers when they see a strong and sellable collection is palpable. As a product junkie, the hardest part for me is seeing a great style and having to wait months for it to hit the stores. What trends are you anticipating this season? What should buyers keep an eye out for? Graphic, bold patterns and new takes on abstract animal prints will continue. We will see more tailoring than usual as well, and I anticipate some great fur and veganapproved outerwear options. Buyers should save some Coterie open-to-buy [budget] for major newness. We have 180-plus new brands in the show, covering every category from outerwear to denim and dresses. There is something for everyone. What are your summer plans? How will you be relaxing in 2019? I hope to make it to the beach more than I did last year—that’s always a goal! And at the top of my list is convincing my hubby to go to Morocco. Let’s see!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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GUTTER CREDITS tk
Danielle Licata, Informa’s president of East Coast Womenswear, knows a thing or two about trade shows. From organizing panel talks to traveling around the world, Licata gives The Daily the scoop on what to expect from Coterie this season.
j e n n a b a sc o m ; a l l o t h ers c o urtes y
on earth
Tel: 212.938.0020 Fax: 212.938.0022 lisaattea@iftheplanet.com www.PlanetByLaurenG.com
Booth 6768
SHOWROOMS DALLAS L.A. N.Y.
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SOLE COMMERCE
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FancyFootwork
anaki paris Footwear Booth 1243, Level 1
united nude Sole Commerce Booth 5524, Level 3
Leslie Gallin
Step Up As president of footwear at UBM, Leslie Gallin has seen Sole Commerce grow into a vital part of the Coterie show. She gives The Daily the exclusive scoop on how she keeps it fresh, season after season.
bill blass Sole Commerce Booth 5533, Level 3
BY Aria Darcella
lucchese Sole Commerce Booth 5430, Level 3
racine carrÉe Footwear Booth 1242, Level 1
How long have you been doing Sole Commerce? I’ve been handling Sole Commerce for a number of years, going back to the WSA [World Shoe Association] days when ENK [now UBM] purchased WSA. For the past eight years, I’ve been involved with Sole Commerce. What’s been your biggest accomplishment so far? Negotiating and navigating with the Coterie team for better placement for footwear within the event. We have seen a direct correlation in the return on investment for those footwear exhibitors. That’s been exciting! And as Coterie grows with its activations, it feeds into the excitement of what goes on at Sole Commerce as well. Tell us what’s interesting and new about this show! Now, thanks to our association with The Daily, Sole Commerce has an activation in social media, and we’re really excited to be launching it. The Daily is doing a panel with Coterie in the grand lobby on the first day of the show, so that’s exciting as well. This event is more about the people coming in to do their business—they’re serious about looking for new trends and writing orders. How does Sole Commerce differ from other shoe shows in the country? It’s a boutique-style event, and a real business driver. The show really focuses on the Eastern Seaboard, which is why it’s completely different from our national shoe show, FN Platform, in Las Vegas. That joan draws both domestic and oloff Sole Commerce international Booth 5526,
footwear and apparel stores. Sole Commerce and Footwear@Coterie are a bit more specific on the audience that they attract. What trends are you seeing this season? A chunky heel! We’re seeing a lot of heels that are quite unique—more artistic, architectural-type structures. And we’re seeing more embellishments on the footwear. We’re also seeing the sneaker trend continuing. What advice do you have for retailers at the show? I would really like for the retailers to take the time to look for new trends, because we bring a good deal of new brands. We spend a lot of time curating and looking for product that we feel is ready to do business in the United States. We ask that the retailers really take an interest in them, because if they don’t see what’s new and place an order, the brand is not going to be there next show. Retailers have the tendency to say, “Oh, well, I’ll see you next show.” Well, these brands can’t afford to come back unless they have orders. We ask retailers to participate— we’re all partners in this! If you want to see new and interesting products, you need to support them. What about brands—any advice for them? Dedicate yourself to knowing about your competition! Go to their websites and see who they’re selling to. Then reach out to those retail stores, look at their websites, learn about them, and see if your products might fit. Any tips for getting a retailer’s attention? Reach out, and not just by e-mail. Send a handwritten note with some photos of your collection and invite them to come meet you personally. At the end of the day, people want to do business with people they like and who they trust. People should be going online and looking at every single city in and around where the show is and finding the retailers in those areas and making a point to reach out to them. Go see them before the show; make appointments after the show. You know where the store is located, you can get their address. We all get way too many e-mails. But if something physically comes across your desk, people are going to take time to look at it.
Level 3
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Huston Conti and Lexi Cross
Soles of New York Huston Conti and Lexi Cross have grown an impressive fan base with their platform, Shoes of NYC. Now, the footwear experts have landed at Sole Commerce with a wealth of branding knowledge. BY Aria Darcella Tell us about your platform! How did it start? Huston Conti: We started the @shoesof Instagram account about four years ago. Lexi had this idea to go out in the streets of New York and stopping people with cool shoes and asking them to tell their stories. We started to get a lot more interest from brands and wanted to figure how to do this full-time. We realized there was a need for content for these brands that couldn’t afford larger agencies. [The platform consists of] an Instagram account, our website, and a YouTube channel as well. SO/Media, our agency on the back end, consults with a variety of fashion-forward brands that create content across the different platforms. What made you want to highlight shoes in particular? Lexi Cross: We are more interested in people. More than any other item of clothing, footwear is the one category that we believe people are extremely
passionate about and really put a lot of thought into. We found that this is a way of opening up people. Shoes are a window into a lot more about a person. People care so much about their shoes, so we started talking to people about them and found it to be true. What kinds of shoes make you stop? Cross: Anything that looks different catches our eye. Of course, anything that is colorful or has high heels, or has different types of hardware. We’re just looking for things that look out of the ordinary, but also for shoes that look like they have a story. For instance, a pair of Converse splattered with paint might indicate that the person is an artist and might have something interesting to say about his shoes. What kinds of shoes do you personally love? Cross: There are differences in what I wear and what I really love. I have to be practical with my shoes, because I’m running all over the place, so I tend to wear a lot of sneakers. I’m particularly a fan of Nike and everything they’ve been doing lately. But I love a dramatic, romantic heel. Attico is a brand that I’m just obsessed with. Conti: I love a good low-profile, low-top sneaker that ages well. I’m never one to clean my shoes. So if they get dirty, they’re going to stay dirty. A sneaker that can age well only looks better over time. How do you approach content creation? Cross: We’re asking, “What story do you want to tell? What do you stand for? What’s your unique angle?” Then we sit down and create content buckets—a whole
strategy—then we produce, do photo shoots, and do video. I do a lot of the photography. Huston can do video and video editing. We outsource when we need to, depending on the angle. What’s something that brands should know when it comes to selling themselves? Cross: When it comes to content creation, the thing that brands don’t realize is that it doesn’t have to be a huge, overwhelming production. We don’t need to have a big budget to do content really well. Find an aesthetic that works for you that’s also within your means. The content-creation process can be intimidating. Bringing in somebody that’s more like a third party, like Huston and me, to help, who has a different perspective and sees a lot of what’s going on out there…that can be really valuable. What mistakes do brands make when trying to communicate their stories? Cross: I think sometimes brands will go for likes and engagement and whatever it takes to get that and stray from what they really love about what they’re making and what really rings true for their brand. You need to strike a balance of making content that people like that stays true to the message that you want to send. Conti: Another mistake that brands can make is perceiving themselves differently than their customers perceive them. It’s important to reach new customers, but sometimes brands can create content for the customer base they want, instead of the customer base and the product they have. What are you looking for at Sole Commerce and Footwear @ Coterie? Cross: I look to see how brands merchandise their products during the show, because there is not a lot of space and they have to be resourceful. The way they merchandise their shoes adds a lot of interest and tells us their story. I’m also really excited to discover some new brands we haven’t seen before. Conti: I’m always curious about new brands—founders’ stories, how they started, where they came from, and how they’ve evolved. The same thing we do with people and their personal stories—we also love to hear brand stories as well. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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COTERIEPreview
Who’s WHO We’ve bid adieu to NYFW, but there’s still lots of stylish action ahead. Coterie is taking over the Jacob K. Javits Center! Here’s a sneak peek at some of the exciting designers and brands showing this season. BY aRIA DARCELLA luana ITALY
LUANA ITALY
EVE BENDER, VP of SALES FOR 5M USA BOOTH 7232, level 3 What are you excited about this season? Our new signature cross-body handbag, the Tia. We offer it in two sizes: a mini, perfect for nights out, and a bigger version, which stores all your essentials.
POLOGEORGIS
DANIEL FOREST, DIRECTOR OF SALES BOOTH 6615, level 3 Your brand has collaborated with some iconic designers. Any favorites? Zandra Rhodes. We have always had a close partnership with her and worked with her for more than 25 years. She is legendary and an important artist in our industry. She’s dressed everyone from Freddie Mercury to Princess Diana. She even has her own fashion and textile museum in London!
A.S.98
FRANK PRENNTZELL, CHIEF DESIGNER BOOTH 1280, level 1 What are you most looking forward to this year? Our new marketing and advertising campaign. The focus will be on social media, and working with real people instead of fashion models. It’s more authentic, and ties into our mantra “Be AS You Are.”
pologeorgis
Any big plans this summer? For me, summer means surfing, wakeboarding, and longboarding. It doesn’t matter where I am, as long as I have time for those hobbies and my family.
TIME’S ARROW
Unfortunately, there is no downtime. We’re still working appointments through the end of the week. That said, after the week, I plan on a solid workout at the gym or a 50-mile bike ride, weather permitting.
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EVE BENDER, VP of SALES FOR 5M USA BOOTH 7232, level 3 How do you plan to recover after show season?
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@COTERIE Ainea 926
VIOLANTI 6635
ALESSIO BARDELLE 6553
VLT'S BY VALENTINA'S 6537
AMINA RUBINACCI 6533
VoiLE BLANCHE 6635
AMLÉ 6953
WHYCI MILANO 6529
ANDREA CARDONE ITALIA 7173
XACUS 6635
ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ 6538 ANGIOLO FRASCONI 6969
@footwear
ANTURA ACCESSORI 6951
DONNA CAROLINA 1250
ARTICO 6543
N I S NEW ITALIA SHOES 1350
BARBARA DI DAVIDE –
PAS DE ROUGE 1244
I CASHMERE 6534
RACINE CARREE 1242 THIERRY RABOTIN 1251
BAZAR DELUXE 6635 BEVINI MODENA 7251 BIANCALANCIA 6537
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BLACK CORAL 840
ADESI - CASHMERE 6357
caliban 6611
ANNA SERAVALLI 6244
CARDITOSALE 7137
BAGUTTA 6326
CENTOPERCENTOCACHEMIRE 6935
DI BELLO BY FONTANI 6333
gironacci 1969 6537
DIMORA DELUXE 6275
guglielminotti 6611
FERRUCCIO VECCHI 6374
LA FABBRI 7256
HANITA 6373
LANDI FANCY 6537
LE FATE 6243
le sarte pettegole 6611
LE PIACENTINI 6272
LORENA BENATTI 6550
LIVIANA CONTI 6243
NIÙ 6648
MANILA GRACE 6243
NV3 7457
MELAROSA 6339
PARRONCHI CASHMERE 6455
PAOLA TODESCO 6238
SHE’S SO 6537
POGGIANTI 1958 6337
SUPREMA 6635
ROBERT FRIEDMAN 6327
TONET 6547
SEVENTY 6322
VERYSIMPLE 6730
TRICOT CHIC 6343
FEBRUARY 25–27, 2019 JACOB K. JAVITS CENTER FALL/WINTER 2019
Italy @NYC
Italian style
There’s nothing like it!
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DANIELA ZELTZER, BRAND MARKETING DIRECTOR BOOTH 8117, level 3 Who would you want to collaborate with on a collection? Our sales manager, Aida De La Cruz, introduced me to the work of [author] Lori Harder. She has an amazing story of overcoming adversity through mindfulness. She’s a strong role model.
What is the best way to make it through sitting in NYC traffic? I catch up on podcasts, make some phone calls, and enjoy a Spotify playlist. I’m currently loving Throwback Jams.
VELVET HEART
JORDAN TSABAG, EVP BOOTH 8123, level 3 Tell us about your company! We have an entire team of designers working together, each specializing in different categories, gathering inspiration from a variety of sources. We travel to Europe six to seven times a year, following top fashion reports.
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velvet heart
What makes for a successful Coterie booth? The best booths are simplistic in design—spacious and clean-looking, yet contemporary. The key is to make sure they aren’t too cluttered, so that buyers can flow easily through the collection.
BECK BAGS
LEIGH MOOSE, FOUNDER & CREATOR BOOTH 7128, level 3 What new colors are you introducing this season? Carol’s Key Lime Pie—it’s a retro ’80s neon green, and it is literally one of my favorite colors so far. If you want bold, this color is where it’s at!
What snack food do you crave most while working at your booth? I am a certified sweets freak and coffee junkie, so really anything in those food groups!
beck bags repeat cashmere
REPEAT CASHMERE
MELISSA PASSARELLA, CHIEF SALES OFFICER USA BOOTH 6515, level 3 Outside of fashion, what inspires your brand? With the ongoing climate crisis, now more than ever Repeat Cashmere is taking cues from what is affecting our world, and we see that influence in this collection.
I wish I missed the phase of popped-collar polo shirts paired with fit-and-flare skirts and UGG boots—not my best look.
c ourt e sy
What’s a fashion phase you wish you had never gone through?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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STICK & BALL
ELIZABETH GOODWIN WELBORN, OWNER & DESIGNER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR BOOTH 6840, level 3 Tell us about yourself! I am a polo player and a single mom who is passionate about sustainability in fine textiles and the environment, crazy about food and wine through my schooling and work in the California wine country, and a die-hard adventure traveler.
What snack food do you crave most while working at your booth? Champagne, popcorn, and dark chocolate. Isn’t it like watching a movie?
JOCELYN
JOCELYN GORDON, DESIGNER BOOTH 7439, Level 3 What are you excited about this season? The launch of our faux fur accessories and an outerwear collection. The collection is called “Savage Love.” I’m obsessed with our new animal prints: zebra, cheetah, and tiger.
stick & ball
What are you watching these days? Netflix documentaries. Currently, 7 Days Out is a favorite.
Do you remember your first time at Coterie? I started in a 10-x-10 booth all the way in the back corner. To this day, it’s still my best show!
THACKER
CRISTINA ORTIGAS, CREATIVE DIRECTOR BOOTH 7241, level 3 Who influenced your style growing up? I definitely looked up to my father’s sisters a lot. They were always—and still are!—stylish and well-dressed.
How do you plan to recover after show season? Definitely curling up with a nice bottle of wine—or two.
CAPOTE
EVELYN RIDDLE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR & FOUNDER BOOTH 8222, level 3 What is your design background?
jocelyn thacker
I am a trained tailor, so fit is extremely important to me. I want women to look and feel their best. My clothes offer strategic draping so as to flatter and hide as necessary.
The big misconception about Capote is that we only offer ponchos. Of course, we do offer them, but we also have an extensive array of other silhouettes with sleeves and a great selection of pants! capote
c ourt e sy
What’s something you wish more people knew about your brand?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Booth 6454
FASHION HONG KONG Coterie, New York February 25-27, 2019 Jacob Javits Center, New York Booth 6450
hktdcfashionhk
#fashion_hongkong
fashion_hongkong@hktdc.org
Booth 6452
COTERIEPreview HARRIAN
CHRISTOPHER BELT, DESIGNER BOOTH 7017, level 3 How did this collection come together? The bags are designed with a scientific point of view, allowing them to function at a utility level with an elegant look. Soon, we will launch a line of products made from a rugged satin nylon that comes from Italy. We’re certain they will be iconic Harrian—taking utility-meets-elegance to the next level.
When did you know that you were ready for Coterie? My partner, Harry, and I waited until the time was right. It’s important that the collection you’re presenting is focused.
CAVANAGH BAKER
CAVANAGH BAKER, OWNER & DESIGNER BOOTH 6354, level 3 What celebrity do you consider best-dressed? Blake Lively. She has such a fun and unique sense of style!
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What is your design process like? It’s not until we source all our fabrics during our annual trips to Paris that the design process truly begins. Fabrics are what design the collection.
Outside of fashion, what inspires your brand? Traveling. There’s something about being in a foreign city and country—I will always have an idea of what I wish I was wearing in certain places, inspired by the architecture, colors, and textures.
JOAN OLOFF
DR. JOAN OLOFF, CEO & FOUNDER BOOTH 5526, level 3 How would you describe your customer? We strongly appeal to the professional working woman who wants to look good. She may have compromised her body in the past, but she’s now refusing to do so.
How do you like to represent your product? I do lifestyle shoots with models who are also dancers. My shoes are not “sitting shoes”—they are meant to be walked in and danced in!
PRETTY ONE
EMILIA KULAKOWSKA, CREATIVE DIRECTOR BOOTH 6877, level 3 What got you interested in fashion?
cavanagh baker
I always liked to dress up and create unusual fashion styling. As a grown-up, I decided to turn that passion into a business, and step by step, I had become a creative director for a fashion brand.
Try some dim sum, maybe go with friends to Canal Street, and head to Serendipity 3 for its frozen hot chocolate. I plan to visit Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. If I can manage it, I would like to go skating at Rockefeller Center or to the AIRE Ancient Baths.
Emilia Kulakowska pretty one
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What are your plans while you’re in New York?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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FALL 2019
COTERIE @ JAVITS CENTER
BOOTH #7439 FEBRUARY 25.26.27
www.shopjocelyn.com @shopjocelyn
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What’s Next
FOR NICOLE
Nicole Miller’s “hands-on” approach to design has ensured her brand’s success in the increasingly competitive retail landscape. The Daily caught up with the fashion mogul post–Fashion Week and pre-Coterie to get the scoop on her latest collection, current sustainability obsession, and most important, her astrological sign! What’s the story behind your Fall ’19 collection? I’ve been on an anti-plastic, sustainable, recyclable, and reusable kick. First, I got a bunch of vintage men’s cashmere sweaters, and had all my designers and staff participate. Some we cut down, and some we left large. We slashed them, shredded them, tie-dyed them, beaded them, embellished them.… It was a great design project and challenge! The funny thing was that initially, everybody was intimidated. The sweaters sat there for weeks until one brave intern went in and chop, chop, chopped it in half! It was really cute. A lot of the sweaters will be sold on the website as one-of-a-kind items. Some of the ones we liked best will be remade and sold for the holiday collection. Are you using any other techniques or fabrics? I’ve been working with old denim, too. You can buy it by the pound at some vintage places. I cut it up for pockets and the old waistbands. I started using these techniques for Spring, and I added a bit more of them for Fall. How did you implement your sustainable obsession? We made a jean out of recycled soda bottles, and then I made an anti-plastic T-shirt that wasn’t on the runway but is going to be on our website. The recycled jeans are going to be on the website in another month or two as well. In Europe, I found a lot of recycled fabrics. Europeans are aggressive about recycling. I had long conversations with a lot of companies that are forerunners for all this—the ones that are really making strides. It seems like they’re more aggressive about it over there than we are here. I think a lot of it is just creating awareness. That’s sort of the big company philosophy here, too. We’ll do whatever we can to get
the word out. I have an [internal] newsletter, which I don’t send every week, but I do it when something comes up that’s really relevant. What do you discuss in the newsletter? For example, one was about gyms that give everyone a free water bottle or sell water. I believe that gyms should make people bring their own water bottles. We all should think more about our personal habits. Beyond the sweaters, what was the inspiration for the collection? We started thinking about what women do every day. Everybody’s always looking for answers, so they’re always looking at their horoscopes, and they’re always going to work or going to the gym, so I showed business suits with athletic clothes. We used embroidery with messages, as well as astrology prints. The collection is about seeking balance in life, too, so we included a little bit of fun. I couldn’t resist putting in some club posters, because you can’t just be a stiff all the time. Speaking of astrology, what sign are you? Pisces. But I haven’t had a birthday in years. [Laughs] Do you relate to the characteristics of a Pisces? Well, I don’t know, because I find it confusing. I’ll find Pisces people and they’re either very similar to me or they’re very different. One girlfriend of mine was always carrying on saying, “I’m sensitive! I’m a Pisces! I’m this! I’m that!” And I said, “You’re so not a Pisces. I bet you were [born] premature.” And she was! She should’ve actually been an Aries. Are there any Pisces traits that you identify with? Well, I think they always say sensitive and artistic, right? And creative.
Have you noticed any trends on the horizon? There are many trends going on concurrently. Skinny jeans are in, high-waisted jeans are in, baggy jeans are in.… There’s always a lot of freedom to make yourself look however you want. What were some of the key Fall pieces you think every woman should have in her closet? I really like the gangster-stripe blazer that opened the show. I like the embellished boyfriend shirt, too. How hands-on are you during the production process? Well, it’s kind of funny—I did embroider some of the samples myself. Not a lot of designers do that. Well, I was given this sewing machine, and I kind of got addicted to it, but then I got custom-made embroideries, and I designed a bunch myself. I taught one of the sewers how to use the machine, but initially, I was the only person who knew how to use it! Are you going to be at Coterie? I always stop by to do a run-through to make sure everything looks good! But then it’s onto the next thing—we’re going to Shanghai Fashion Week, and Shanghai doesn’t want us to show the same thing that was on the New York runway, so I have to make a whole new collection. How much time do you have to turn it around? One month! Because we’re going someplace else, it’s going to be a little out there. I’m trying to do things that are totally different.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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r u n w ay : c o u r t e s y
BY TANGIE SILVA PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLINE FISS
EXECUTIVE
AUTHORITY As CEO and co-founder of Nicole Miller, Bud Konheim knows how to mastermind a business success. The always-dishy exec reveals his own recipe for fashion domination—and tackles a few other issues, while he’s at it!
r u n w ay : c o u r t e s y
BY ASHLEY BAKER photography by giorgio niro You’ve been in the business forever. What’s the luxury industry looking like from your perspective? The whole idea of luxury has changed, and who has changed with it? Nobody. Not the industry. I’m trying! New ideas can be risky… What’s risky is the old idea that you stay with, because it always works. That is a disaster. Let’s take the idea of markdown allowances and return privileges—it trained retailers not to be responsible for what they buy. They didn’t have to select good merchandise from bad merchandise because they always had the ability to go back to the manufacturer and say, “Pay me.” Then, the manufacturer would say, “Listen—we don’t want to take it back if you’re not selling it, mark it down and we’ll pay you the difference.” Now, 60 percent off is not even a markdown. You can’t get anyone’s attention unless you’ve marked something down to 75 percent off. Who wins the price war? The person who gets to zero first. We all know what the problem is, but where is the new thought? What you have to do is you have to get back to Adam and Eve and start from scratch. Did you study Latin? Of course. Tabula rasa. Start with a clean slate. Why does anyone want to buy anything from us? When you start there and when you get your answer to that, you are on your way to a new business model that might work. The
reason somebody wants to buy something is because it makes them feel good. How do you make people feel good? Well, you can do it with a cute design, you can do it through price, you can do it through keeping them warm when it’s cold, or cool when it’s hot. Our particular way of making people feel good is Nicole. She makes women feel good with the clothes. End of the story. Do we talk in those terms? No, we don’t talk in those terms. We talk in womenswear terms—it’s edgy, it’s cool, it’s Lower East Side or it’s Upper West Side, whatever the hell it is. We use all kinds of language to cover up what we’re trying to do, which is to make women feel good when they buy merchandise designed by Nicole Miller. When we don’t make them feel good, we know immediately what the answer is—they don’t buy it. What we’re doing now is expanding Nicole’s idea of the aesthetics that make people feel good. We’ve gone into jeans, and we’ve now expanded into the lifestyle area as well with Nicole Miller Home. Have you seen our rugs? They’re great. Yes, and the jeans are fantastic, too. Right now, design doesn’t have the same cachet as hype. Hype is selling more merchandise than good design. But we’re not letting anyone slap our name on a product. Nicole’s jeans feel like pajamas—they’re soft, stretchy, and flexible, and they look great. We insist that all our products are up to our standards, as if Nicole is standing behind the piece as it’s being made. She’s incredibly hands-on. Because that’s who we are. On a regular basis, Nicole is asked by big-name designers, “Do you go into the office on a regular basis? Do you ever show up? Do you need to do anything there?” She’s in here every day. I get to the office at a quarter to 8, and she gets in a quarter after 8, and she’s here until 7 o’clock at night. You two make a great team. I tell you what—it’s all the elements, consistently doing the same thing over the years, come hell or high water. One of the things that brought the industry down is [overhyping] the latest flavor of the
Nicole Miller and Bud Konheim
month. I am totally against the idea of developing a prima donna, genius designer right out of design school. When Michelangelo graduated art school, he had to copy the masters for eight years before they gave him a brush of his own. How many licenses does the company have now? Around 63. Retail buyers tell me anything with the name Nicole Miller on it sells. But let me tell you something—it comes with a lot of work. We are very careful about the product, and we don’t put our name on toilet paper. Nicole is hands-on in everything she does. The brand’s longevity and success is really remarkable. I’ve been in the industry since 1955—I’m fourth generation in the business, and I’ve never not had an interesting day. Not every day is good, but I can never say it is boring.… And there has never been a day without some kind of challenge. Some of the challenges, some of the worst challenges, are when you’re doing well. What’s the thing that separates a real designer from someone who’s just playing? A real designer hates what she just did. Because if she loves what she just did and figures that’s the end of the design, nobody needs her anymore. The whole point of design is to improve the status quo— to change the world from what it is into something that’s more perfect. I don’t care if we made the best piece of clothing that was ever done yesterday. That was yesterday, now we have to improve on that, and that’s what designers are all about. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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DESIGNERDebrief
ramy brook Coterie Booth 920, Level 1
ultimate
ramy Ramy Brook has an exciting new ad campaign, denim line, and grand plans for world domination. THE DAILY caught up with designer Ramy Sharp to learn more about her universe!
Sebastian Faena photographed Cami Morrone for your new campaign. How did it come together? We love Sebastian. He’s incredibly talented, and he did an amazing job with our Martha Hunt ads. He understands my vision. When we were finishing up with Martha, who had a year-long contract, he suggested we use Cami Morrone. I really trust him, so we met with her, and I thought she was adorable and perfect. They also had a special connection—they’re both from Argentina, and they speak to each other in Spanish, so she truly understands his vision and he gets her to be comfortable in front of the camera and pose a certain way that I don’t know if anyone else could. She is beautiful and smart. For me, it’s not just about the [model’s] physical look—it’s about the all-encompassing woman. That’s why I like to meet with these women who are going to represent the brand for a year because they have to be an extension of exactly what I’m looking for. What was the vibe of the photo shoot? We used a beautiful townhouse as our set, and we used multiple locations inside—by a fireplace, by a window, by a cool staircase—and we also shot on a plain background. Sebastian really got Cami to move, and she had a very sexy, beautiful look with every single piece she put on her body. It was a fun vibe! Sebastian had his music playing, and everybody was happy. What inspired your recent holiday collection? We were recently inspired by Gustav Klimt and the Art
Nouveau era. His use of decorative and ornate style and rich jewel colors of gold and copper influenced our holiday collection. We also developed great styles to wear to work based on the menswear trend. What can we expect for Fall 2019? We have really pretty fall colors, some exciting prints, and some great novelty pieces that are a little bit different than what we’ve done in the past. Our whole collection is really evolving with fabrics, and we’re going into new categories, and going deeper into some of the categories that we’re known for. We’re also launching our denim line this fall, so that’s new for us. Tell us more! I love denim, so I always wanted to add denim to our line to create a full Ramy Brook look. The denim that we’re adding really complements our whole collection. It also has a little bit of novelty to it—sequins, interesting colors, fabrics, and feels. And the fit is going to be amazing!
Why is denim important to the Ramy Brook woman? How does it fit into her life? She’s always multitasking, so a lot of her clothes take her from day to night. You don’t always have to be dressed up all day to go into the night, and vice versa. And denim, especially the right denim, can really do that for you. A cool pair of jeans that fit well and make you feel really good, paired with a cool top and maybe a jacket, is really right for the Ramy Brook woman. When she wakes up in the morning, she gets dressed, and this outfit will take her all through her day and night. We do have different rises—low, mid, and with long and cropped lengths. I personally love a low-rise jean, and there’s not a lot of that out there, so you’ll see some low-rise denim in this collection. It seems like low-rise is making a comeback! Yes! I think it’s a flattering shape on the body. You recently launched a shop-in-shop at Bloomingdale’s. What’s it like being part of
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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s h a r p : k a t h l e e n o ' n e i l l ; c a m p a i g n i m a g e s : s e b a s t i a n fa e n a
BY Aria Darcella
s h a r p : k a t h l e e n o ' n e i l l ; c a m p a i g n i m a g e s : s e b a s t i a n fa e n a
such an iconic New York department store? It’s a dream come true. Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street has always been a place where I like to go shopping. I go there a lot with my daughter on the weekends. We shop the contemporary floor and then we always get yogurt. Bloomingdale’s has been renovating the whole store. When they were doing the plans for the second floor, they approached us with the idea of a shop-in-shop, and they were great to work with.
My sister-in-law is a contractor, so she built it for us. Now, we have a 400-square-foot space, and it’s doing amazing. Where can we buy Ramy Brook these days? Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, and Shopbop. We’re also carried in more than 250 boutiques around the country. Our boutique business has really grown significantly. Our footprint in the department stores has also grown significantly. So where we may have started with one rack, now we have multiple racks, our name on the wall, signage…really strong partnerships. We just started to go into Canada, and we’re exploring going international. I’ve visited a lot of great places in Europe, but I think the first place we would look into is in London, and then possibly Australia. Why do you think those two markets in particular are strong places to start? In London, there are so many great department stores that carry contemporary brands, and I think we could do well there. Paris would be interesting, too. And there are a lot of Australian designers I admire, and when I look at some of the brands over there, it seems like the perfect place for Ramy Brook to be in business.
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i love denim, so i always wanted to add denim to our line to create a full ramy brook look.” Have you ever been to Australia? I haven’t. A good friend of mine is from Australia, and she’s always connecting me with different friends of hers. But I would love to go! Maybe next Christmas. I feel like we need a lot of time to go, because it’s a long trip. Do you have any big trips coming up? Generally, we go out to the Hamptons for the summer. Last year, we also went away to Greece. I haven’t gotten there yet; I need to plan our spring break first. Hopefully, we’ll be somewhere nice and warm! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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LUXEList
Fashion forward Pologeorgis is growing its business in the outerwear category. How are you incorporating more fabrics into your Fall collection? We have always been known for our fur garments, and now we’re making a name for ourselves in the outerwear category. It’s exciting to grow our brand in this direction. Our team of designers really did their research and found new sources for fabrics from Italy and Japan. They worked to discover weatherproof fabrics with interesting textures that are both functional and stylish. We have great metallic tweeds that we’re offering combined with fur and shearling. Our luxurious knitted cashmeres are mixed with furs, too—we have a chunky knit zip pullover with fur sleeves. How are materials mixed and matched? A standout for this season and a style that really sums up the feeling of the collection is the deep indigo corduroy shearling-lined jean jacket. It has a lot of attitude, with classic pocket details, riveted buttons, and a furry lining. How do your shearlings factor into the collection? Shearling has really become a touchstone for our collection. In reaction to our clients’ requests, we’re offering reversible shearlings and expanding the collection. Some are given a metallic treatment or made into puffer jackets and parkas. All are super soft and lightweight. We’re also mixing shearling with bonded fabrics for an interesting mix of textures—in fact, we’re really blurring the lines between fur and fabric. Several of the shearlings have a distressed crackle finish, which lends a vintage vibe to the pieces. We offer a ton of color options this season, reaching far beyond the classics. There’s an emphasis on soft tones, such as lemonade, peach, and mango. You’ll also see a focus on blue, including various shades of dusty blue and arctic. Any standout pieces that you’re particularly into? A long, ivory perforated shearling coat. It has an intricate
pattern, made up of tiny pinholes, which add texture but don’t compromise the all-important warmth factor. We’ve added shearling accessories to the collection—our bags and clutches are really popular. We’re introducing hats and mittens this season as well, and you will also find some really exciting multicolored blocked scarves and wraps. We also have a new twist on a classic French beret—we made it in an oversize knitted mink with a lush fox pom-pom. Really chic! The puffer trend is still going strong—what is Pologeorgis’s take on it? Yes, the trend is only getting stronger—it’s a reflection of a more casual approach to dressing. Clients still want to feel the luxury and warmth of fur or shearling on the inside, so we’re offering them lots of options. We’re even giving the puffer treatment to shearlings and tweed garments. We’re quilting minks as well, which make the garments reversible as an added feature. Tweed puffers with metallic and Lurex are a mainstay of the collection. What’s your color story for the season? We’re concentrating on warm hues—spice, nutmegs, and honey gold. All are perfect for fall. We’re also excited about all the shades in the gray family—vapor, steel, and arctic. They’ll definitely get you in the mood for a cold winter! And please give us a sense of your home offerings! Home has become such an important category for us. Each home is a reflection and extension of personal style, and fur brings an element of luxury and warmth. We offer a full line of coyote and fox blankets, which are perfect for a sofa or a bed. We’re making one-of-a-kind intarsia mink blankets and pillows—these are really like pieces of art, and each is made by hand in our New York atelier. On the less serious side, we have also created a decadent but whimsical oversize ivory shearling bean bag! It’s almost big enough to seat two.
POLOGEORGIS Coterie Booth 6615, Level 3
Which products are included in your made-tomeasure offerings? We’re continuing with our made-to-measure minks, which have always been a strong element and signature of the Pologeorgis collection. We’re offering multitudes of colors and techniques. Custom is what we do best!
co u rt e sy
Pologeorgis is known for its furs, but as the brand storms into Fall ’19, it’s adding an expanded line of fabrics, textures, and next-level concepts to the mix. President and CEO Nick Pologeorgis explains!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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chicSpree Retro Janis bag in Black, $315 Tech Fit bag in Yellow Fluo, $198
Foulonné Pia bag in Royal Blue, $265
arm candy
lancaster paris Coterie Booth 7023, Level 3
Velvet and sequins bag in Dark Blue/Red, $125
Fausse Fourrure bag in Red, $175
Lancaster Paris is bringing Parisienne chic to Coterie this season. The French brand has a new collection of “It” bags sure to make chicsters swoon. kasandra l. carlson
Dune bag in Saffron, $345
svp sales & marketing, lancaster paris How long have you been representing the brand?
Soft Vintage bag in Red, $240
Six years! I love that it’s truly an affordable luxury brand with incredible craftsmanship and thoughtful design details. what are you excited about this season?
I’m most excited about the design details in terms of hardware closures and new treatments that accessorize each bag along with the luggageinspired details and silhouettes. We are also introducing a new embossed croco-printed leather that is incredibly rich and luxurious. Plus, we’re introducing adjustable belts with different leather treatments and new textile fabrications. what should every woman have in her bag?
Something for her eyes, lips, and hands—cool shades, lip color or gloss, and a great hand cream. any summer plans?
We are currently working on a popup shop and event in the Hamptons.
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Vendôme Lune bag in Blush Pink, $190
Velvet Textile bag in Red, $148
To purchase or for store locations, visit lancaster.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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uniformlyChic planet by lauren g Coterie Booth 6768, Level 3
Modern woman Tell us more about how your designs work for women on the go! Each piece can be layered and worn in either daytime or evening. The fabrications are easily packable to travel in a small suitcase. We don’t use any prints. Instead, we use various textures that can be accessorized with fabulous chunky necklaces, bracelets, shoes, sneakers, or boots. Each one of these pieces can be used in the wardrobe, year after year. How do you stay active? I exercise every morning before I go to the office. I either do a high-energy spin class or a Zumba dance class. It clears my head and energizes me for the day. How would you describe your personal style? How has it changed over the years? I went through the ’70s in platform shoes and Faded Glory jeans, along with Nik Nik shirts and Wayne Rogers tops. In the ’80s, I wore Norma Kamali with great big shoulder pads, as well as Betsey Johnson. I also rocked my favorite look, the punk/New Wave style—Boy London belts and clothing from Patricia Fields, Fiorucci, and Reminiscence. It was so creative and out of the box. The ’90s cleaned up with a lot of menswear suiting, but my favorite part of the ’90s was the grunge look. I wore a flannel shirt tied around my waist every day. What’s your design process like? Where do you usually start with your collections? My design process is like a birth. I first start with a color palette. From there, I select fabrics to coordinate with the colors selected. Next, I break down the categories into tops, jackets, bottoms, and sweaters. Then I match up which designs look the best in each fabric and color. First samples are then made, and we build the collection from there. Once I approve all the details of each piece— such as buttons, thread, and zippers—I have the piece sketched, price it out, and it goes into the new collection. What advice would you give to someone showing at Coterie for the first time? Be prepared, and know your product inside and out. Knowledge is power.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Comfort is synonymous with your brand—how do you define comfort? How do you toe the line between comfort and chic? Comfort is defined by Planet as everyday clothing, as well as [clothing for] every evening. The fabrics are luxurious, and that feeling equates with comfort. It’s easy to look good and still be chic because the style is there. You work with vegan leather. Why is that important to you? Planet likes to be kind to the environment. Rather than using leather that kills animals and has to be dry-cleaned, vegan leather is a totally washable and an animal-free, man-made fabric. What other textiles are you working with these days? I am excited about the new scuba fabric. It’s amazing— minimal, washable, and comfortable. It’s available in black, asphalt, and white. We did some color blocking, because these three colors coordinate so well together. It’s not only hip, but very chic! You’ve told us before that you admire Donna Karan. Why do you connect to her work? I read her memoir, My Journey, and I was shaking when I read about her concept of the seven easy pieces. It’s exactly what Planet’s philosophy of dressing has been for the past 20 years. Are there any people in your personal life you’ve looked up to, style-wise? My sister has always been my fashion icon. She is 13 years my senior, and as a little girl, I watched her dress in the latest and greatest fashions throughout the ’60s, ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s. Now in the 2000s, I watch her wear Planet. She always looks up-to-date and appropriate for any occasion. Chic is her look—she doesn’t wear a costume. I am proud to say her entire wardrobe is Planet. Who is the Planet woman? Planet is a lifestyle collection that caters to women who travel, go to spas, and live in a country-club setting. The pima-cotton tees and sweater knits, as well as the matte jersey, are ideal for such environments. It’s about always looking smart but also being comfortable.
COMFORT ZONE Some looks from the Planet Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
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Designer Lauren Grossman has made her brand, Planet by Lauren G, a go-to for women seeking clothes that look good, feel good, and don’t harm animals. The Daily spoke to the Coterie veteran to find out what fuels her, and what fans can expect this season.
HANDCRAFTED LEATHER
SHOES & HANDBAGS AS98.NET | @AS98USA
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Red hot
Genie Parada-Fishman
Genie Parada-Fishman, owner and founder of Agent R.E.D. International, has been working tirelessly behind the scenes as an agent for years. How does she compete to get her brands noticed in 2019? The Daily caught up with her to find out what it takes to build an audience—and a wardrobe.
capote Coterie Booth 8222, Level 3
XCVI Coterie Booth 8117, Level 3
and fears. Think freely and fearlessly. The only way to grow is to put yourself in that uncomfortable place. Keep moving forward—evolving, developing, learning, devising, and implementing new ideas. And most of all, have fun and enjoy the process! What’s your personal approach to a happy and successful life? I take a problem-solution approach to all life challenges. Step outside yourself and minimize the emotional factor. Only then can you think clearly and make the best decisions.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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interesting products that are unique and offer good quality. I don’t think that will ever change. Retail is tough out there, and when the going gets tough, people tend to panic and make reactive decisions that are usually not the best ones. For example, the cheap clothing movement…people hopped on that bandwagon and really quickly, you realize that it’s not about the cheapest clothing. It’s about the best. People will always spend more on high quality and great design. What’s your tip for creating a wardrobe and keeping with one’s style identity? Avoid trends at all costs. True style is not about trends— it’s about beautiful clothing that pervades a faddish moment. That doesn’t mean it’s boring—it just means that you shouldn’t buy neon yellow unless you truly love it and foresee integrating the color in your wardrobe for years to come. That’s not to say that your tastes won’t evolve and change, but the constant is that beautifully made and designed garments will always triumph over the fast-fashion approach. What advice would you give to those who are interested in entering your line of work? Have passion, persistence, and endless energy. Pursue your goals relentlessly. Have a positive attitude, and believe anything is possible. Embrace your insecurities
c o urtes y
Which projects do you feel most inspire and empower your audience and the fashion community? I’m particularly excited about our new social media initiatives, such as our “On the RED Couch with Genie” video series. In it, we sit down with our designers and retailers to chat about life, the fashion biz, and our brands. This includes interviews with those who aren’t too shy so we can catch them in action, as well as photo series that capture candid moments during sales meetings and product presentations. The concept is intended to bring together the people of the fashion business and create a sense of community. How does your social media strategy help you stand out from others? In a world where everyone tries to look perfect, we embrace imperfections. We don’t use filters or special effects to make us look better in our social media footage. I believe in embracing yourself as you are—not that I think it’s wrong to correct a flaw that is really bothering you. But that we need to embrace our imperfections as unique attributes that make us special, even if they’re not considered “traditionally” beautiful. What upcoming projects are you excited to debut? I am super excited about our RED Spotted blog, which features outstanding real people with undeniably unique style. We are in New York, after all! Fearless eclecticism as interpreted in fashion choices can be found in droves everywhere you look. That’s why I adore this city and can’t picture living anywhere else! I literally run down the street to snap people for RED Spotted. In the process, I meet some interesting people. Like who? Recently I spotted the Coco and Breezy twins [Corianna and Brianna Dotson]. I honestly had no idea they were celebrities; I just thought they looked great. They were incredible—friendly, chatty, and nice. How would you describe the shift in the fashion industry and retail environment? I think what sells now is what always sold—special,
velvet heart Coterie Booth 8123, Level 3
fashion with function Committed to ending the sacrifice of comfort for style.
fall/winter 2019 sole commerce booth 5526, LEVEL 3 info@joanoloffshoes.com joanoloffshoes.com Follow us on Instagram @joanoloffshoes
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FLACKFiles OUR ANONYMOUS PUBLICIST HAS RETURNED WITH A MESSAGE FOR ALL YOU INFLUENCERS… “During NYFW, we air-kiss our enemies with Markle-like sincerity, swan around in torturous footwear, and generally hate on life. Why do we subject ourselves to this trash can fire instead of avoiding it like the Fyre Festival? All for the Instagram content, darling. That’s why! Take this pop quiz to see where you rank on the social media totem pole.”
The Devil tagGED Prada!
2. A brand has offered to dress you for its show. You…
A. Make an appointment, but skip it because it was “golden hour” outside of the showroom. Instead, you pose in front of its door for 2.5 hours with your photographer while a PR assistant slowly loses her mind B. Show up on time, pick out a look, make plans to return it, and deliver coffee to the sweet PR assistant who slept for only 2.5 hours in the past week C. Have your assistant call in the entire collection, keep every piece, refuse to confirm what you’re going to wear, and be maddeningly vague when you’re asked to confirm your attendance
3.Your NYFW prep routine includes…
A. A week of Hungryroot and lathering on the entire St. Tropez product range while posting conspicuous photos of palm trees to imply you’re somewhere tropical B. A liquid diet—mostly booze—and walking instead of Ubering. You also update to the latest version of Facetune C. A month-long Sakara subscription, daily privates at Tracy Anderson, and a weekend on a day bed at the W South Beach
4.You’re invited to an exclusive dinner thrown by a reputable media outlet. You’ve been told that the list is
comprised of models, designers, and fellow influencers. Your response is…
A. You’ll attend—if you’re paid B. Accept with gratitude C. Demand to know who else is on the guest list so you can decide if you can be bothered to sit amongst the gen pop. When you receive the list, confirm your attendance only if seated next to the most famous person in the room
5.You attend a lavish brand party, where a thoughtful flack has manufactured countless opportunities for you to take great photos and tag the hosting brand. Naturally, you…
A. Allow yourself to be tagged in someone else’s photo, but never tag the brand in your own main page content B. Cooperate graciously C. Refuse to be photographed, but take a thousand photos two blocks from the venue with your gang of friends so everyone knows you were out, but can’t quite identify where you went
6.Your go-to ensemble is…
A. Exposed midriff in subzero temps, accompanied by a filter of Juul smoke, to give you that “mysterious” look B. A new outfit by a new designer that’s repped by your BFF in PR C. Something from your latest “collaboration” with a big box retailer that paid six figures for your “designs.” Does said design look remarkably like an up-and-coming designer’s signature frock you wore eight months ago? Never! It is wholly your creation!
Mostly A’s
Mostly B’s
Mostly C’s
You’re Emily Charlton—vicious, but not cutthroat enough to make it to Paris. You can sniff out a freebie à la Rosco the Bed Bug Dog, but at the end of the day, you will graciously throw in a tag or two to let us flacks know that your black heart isn’t totally frozen!
Hello there, Andrea Sachs! Human resources certainly has a sense of humor. You’re the heart and soul of what keeps fashion pumping, even if it means you’re the soiled red carpet under the heels of the glamorous. Earnest will be chic again…someday! At least we hope!
Move over, Miranda Priestly, an editrix from the Jurassic period who probably doesn’t even know what Instagram is…you are the shining star of social media. You’re not tagging unless doing so positively impacts your net worth. And when your greedy reputation ultimately gets the best of you, you’ll already have a book deal in the works.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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A. The screen of your cell phone, via the front row seat you swiped last minute B. The standing section. You’re just happy to be a part of it all! C. Ick, fashion shows are such a hassle. They didn’t even offer to pay for you to come. You’ll just take that free Uber and use it to visit a friend in Red Hook during rush hour
e v erett c o l l ecti o n ( 3 ) ; s h utterst o c k ( 2 )
1. You experience Fashion Week through…
#ďŹ ndLIMinNYC
Fashion. Business. Education. Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu/NYC
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