The Daily Front Row

SEPTEMBER 13, 2017

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WHO ROCKED YOUR RUNWAY?

iver’sthe l O e Shayn take on master brainy ist l a minim

For the fashion obsessed

Follow the latest looks across the globe— from the red carpet to the runway.

@gettyfashion

WE

NY!

With Lela Rose Hi, Lela!

Hi! [Speaking to friends] Don’t leave yet. I’m going to talk to The Daily for a few minutes and then I’ll walk you through.

Go get a hot dog!

Brandusa Niro

Editor in Chief, CEO

This is such a celebration of New York!

Nicki Minaj at ODLR Ellie Kemper

PROCRASTINATING! With Ellie Kemper

Lela Rose

Are you as optimistic as your character, Kimmy Schmidt?

No. I wish that I were. She has an optimism and tenacity that people should aspire to, especially now.

We hear you’re writing a book.

I am! It’s a book of humor essays. No release date yet.

SCENE

File this under things Oscar never would have said: “ ‘Beez in the Trap’ is my favorite track,” said Fernando Garcia of Nicki Minaj, who attended the Oscar de la Renta show at Sotheby’s. The concept? “We wanted to celebrate Oscar’s signature, and that led to looking at all his old notes and celebrating that handwriting, which felt true to the house. Paint splatter was another concept, so we married the two,” said Garcia. Love!

• Carolina Herrera put on a beautiful show at the MoMA— in the evening, for a change. • Lela Rose took over a slice of Washington Square Park for an homage to the city she calls home.

Mark Tevis

Zosia Mamet

Nicky Hilton Rothschild

Ana de Armas

SELFIE REFLECTION!

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia

With Paris Hilton

With Vanessa Friedman

You’re so cool about taking selfies with everyone at our events. Why are you so chill? I always say yes

It’s been a little up and down. It’s been very late. It’s worse than ever.

Thoughts on the week so far?

#OBSIXED FOR 7

Obsixed: Six coveted or can’tlive-without items that make for a fashionable lifestyle.

Morgane Sezalory Shiatsu massage at Shibui Spa at the Greenwich Hotel Le Bar at L’hôtel des Beaux Arts in Paris ABC Carpet & Home Jack sneakers by Sézane Cire Trudon Positano candle Sisley Paris Gentle Facial Buffing Cream

SHOP THE LIST ON STORYANDRAIN.COM PROMOTION

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

BRUTAL HONESTY!

Oscar De La Renta

because I want everyone to feel special.

It’s the nice thing to do. It’s mean when people say no! Does that LuMee light you use weigh down your purse? It does! When I had three phones, it was like carrying around bricks!

Week of September 7–13

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Publisher

How do you manage all the info coming your way? Badly. [Laughs] I do as well

Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row

as I can. It’s a juggling act.

Are you going to London? I’m going The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2017. to part of London, but Matthew All rights reserved. Reproduction without [Schneier] is doing the permission is strictly prohibited. Requests reviews. for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.

CAROLINA HERRERA

On the cover: Shayne Oliver and Unia in Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver. Photography by William Jess Laird, makeup and hair by Aeriel Payne.

FRAN IN FULL! With Fran LeboWitz

At Mrs. H’s morning shows, you complained about the time. Happy now?

Luma Grothe

For years I’ve been saying, “What, are we farmers?” Everything should be at 8 p.m.

Are you a late riser?

I don’t like to confront my fellow man.

Lauren Santo Domingo

Graydon’s retiring—so sad!

It’s not sad for Graydon. I’d like him to stay, but he really wants to leave.

He’s an old man!

He’s going to be reading this!

I’m sure he is. He’s two years older than me. A man his age should be in the sun.

Lee Radziwill

getty i m ages ( 1 4 ) ; tay l or j ewe l l ( 2 ) ; firstview ( 1 )

That’s exactly the point.

I feel like everyone keeps talking about Fashion Week like, “Ugh. New York.”

Everyone is dogging on everything. New York is the most glorious place. It inspires me every single day!

Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Associate Editor Sydney Sadick Art Directors John Sheppard, Magdalena Long Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier

S:10.25”

S:13”

OFFICIAL MAKEUP SPONSOR OF

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK ©2017 Maybelline LLC.

bagel, please!

With Amelia Gray Hamlin

The

Scene

Rihanna brought pink sand dunes and motocross riders to the Park Avenue Armory for the Fenty Puma x Rihanna spectacle. • It was socials (and perhaps Secret Service?) galore at The Plaza for the Dennis Basso show. Lisa Rinna hooted and hollered, perhaps in an homage to Leslie Jones’s earlier performance at Christian Siriano.

LOVEFEST!

With Dennis Basso What brings you back to The Plaza?

I wanted to return to my roots.

I’ve showed at all the major hotels in New York and I love The Plaza. Amelia Gray Hamlin is making her New York runway debut in this show. I’ve known [her parents] Lisa [Rinna] and Harry [Hamlin] forever, so this is a personal thing.

BOOK SCOOP!

THE DAILY WONDERS…

With Ivana Trump How was summer? I was in Saint-Tropez finishing my book, Raising Trump. It will be published in October. How’s your love life?

I have companions. I don’t care about full-time boyfriends. Can we hear your catchphrase?

“Don’t get mad, get everything!”

What was the theme of this collection?

International women traveling to exotic locales. This is my 35th anniversary. I want to transport everyone with me!

LOUD AND PROUD! With Lisa Rinna

Amelia is killing it!

It’s so exciting. A year ago, our oldest daughter, Delilah Hamlin, made her debut in the Tommy Hilfiger show. Cut to the next year and Amelia Gray is opening and closing the show. Next, she and Delilah are going to walk for Dolce in Milan.

A year ago, they were working at the deli making 200 bagels on a Sunday morning!

Did you make them take that job?

Absolutely. Delilah used the money to buy a car. Well, part of a car!

Dennis Basso

WHAT was your first car?

“A gold Ford Taurus. Not the pretty gold.”

“I remember I used to drive an old Chevy Suburban to high school, which was at first embarrassing and then fulfilling because it was like a school bus and I could drive all my friends around.”

— Derek Blasberg

In 2015, when he came to Beijing for his “Young China” exhibition with Angelica Cheung and Vogue China.

Any favorite Michael moments?

In the past three years, I’ve

“I still can’t drive, so I never had a car.”

—Hamish Bowles

—Nicky Zimmermann

“When I turned 16 I got a Jeep Liberty. But not the one with the wheel on the back, the other one that’s more boxy. I loved it.

It was like a little Barbie car. Actually, I still drive it when I go back to Missouri.”

With Yang Mi, Michael Kors’ new brand ambassador

had lots of great memories with Michael, attending his show, the Met Gala, and many other special events in China. I am honored to be named his global ambassador and to be in his latest The Walk campaign, shot by Tommy Ton.

— Ellie Kemper

“A 1967 red Volkswagen Beetle.”

CHIC CHAT! When did you first meet Michael?

FENTY PUMA

“Probably my boyfriend’s Ford F-150, which I inherited after he upgraded to an electric car.”

—Devon Windsor

—Selby Drummond

PROMOTION

graphic eyes

At the Monse show, while the models’ skin glowed with hints of illuminator, it was the eyes that truly stood out. Maybelline New York makeup artist Grace Lee used thick stripes of metallic liquid liner to create dramatic looks on the lids.

BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Master Precise Ink Metallic Liquid Liner in Black Comet, $8.99, maybelline.com

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

PRO TIP: Draw the winged lid using a pencil, then top with the liquid liner for precision.

“New York fashion used to be about Marc Jacobs, a real designer who made real fashion, at the Park Avenue Armory, and now it’s about Fenty. Now it’s about entertainment, like Rihanna, putting on a fantastic show.”

—STEFANO TONCHI

#OBSIXED FOR 7

Week of September 7–13 Obsixed: Six coveted or can’tlive-without items that make for a fashionable lifestyle.

Matthew Marchak

1Moke cars Mist 2Oxygen

by Lumion Fortuna at 3Bar Casa Apicii classes 4Workout at Liftonic Knit Bomber 5Boucle Jacket by ATM Collection 6The Cultivist SHOP THE LIST ON STORYANDRAIN.COM PROMOTION

shoe of the daily The ALLJACK Inspired by the iconic 5050, these boots are cut from sumptuous suede to skim the top of the knee and are finished with a stretch suede back—a new-season update on the signature SW micro stretch back—for a fabulous fit. Note the bold block heel: The ALLJACK is an all-around style star and will add Mod-inspired flair to your fall wardrobe, whether worn with a thighgrazing A-line dress or with leather leggings. $765, stuartweitzman.com PROMOTION

g e t t y i m a g e s ( 1 0 ) ; p a t r i ck m c m u l l a n . co m ( 3 ) ; s h u t t e r s t ock ( 3 ) ; i m a x t r e e ( 2 )

You worked at a deli?! It was extremely grounding. It taught me a work ethic. I’m so grateful for the experience. Believe it to not, I take my deli experience to my modeling life. But there’s no cream cheese in fashion. Actually…there are bagels, cream cheese, and a toaster backstage today. I’m in my environment!

Series 3.1 Emerging Fashion Designers

Art by Adam Dalton Blake

©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.

Introducing LIFEWTR Series 3.

We advance and showcase the sources of creation and creativity.

RUNWAYReport

LIVING COLOR

Talk about bright spots!

From fuchsia and crimson to cerulean and mustard, designers are unapologetically embracing color for Spring ’18.

oscar De la renta

carolina herrera In the garden of the MoMA, Herrera unveiled a riot of brightly colored dots and stripes in faintly nostalgic silhouettes. Her customer may be a dignified lady, but she is certainly no wallflower, and these joyful looks ensure that she’s the best-dressed at the ball—or The Grill!

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getty images (8); firstview (4); shutterstock (2)

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia cleverly (and quasi-literally) interpreted the house’s signatures—tulle ball gowns, splatter-paint denim, and most winning of all, inventive uses of the late designer’s exuberant scrawl. A masterful start from two of New York’s most promising talents.

Series 3.2 Emerging Fashion Designers

Art by Tiffany Huang

©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.

Inspiration on the outside. Hydration on the inside.

runwayReport

DVF

DEREK LAM Even modernists get nostalgia!

Working with the general idea of American wanderlust, Lam took to The Pool at the Four Seasons with a collection full of Western overcoats, belted trenches, and wide-leg trousers. Striped, ’70s-style dresses and funky suiting rounded out the ensemble.

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shutterstock (4); all others courtesy

With Jonathan Saunders at the helm, DVF is making some of New York’s most vibrant, democratic fashion.

Bias-cut dresses, fur-trimmed outerwear, and fab florals are just a few of his most covetable ideas—we’re equally enamored with the fringed dresses and groovy accessories.

Series 3.3 Emerging Fashion Designers

Art by Ghazaleh Khalifeh

©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.

Discover our designers at LIFEWTR.com

HELMUT

, LANG REVISITED In his TWENTIES, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air was the darling of New York’s young designer scene. So when the now-30-year-old designer put HBA on hiatus, everyone wondered: What’s next? Before long, Oliver was tapped by Isabella Burley, Helmut Lang’s new editor in residence, to reinvent the brand for spring 2018. On Monday night, he unveiled Helmut Lang’s Seen by Shayne Oliver, to the delight of his fans around the globe.

By PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM JESS LAIRD makeup and hair by aeriel payne FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

a man and his muse Vevers (right) with model Adwoa Aboah.

the new guard Oliver (right) with model Unia in a Spring ’18 look from Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver.

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knows how to engage with the work and is efficient. I think the weird thing about fashion right now is that you can sell a broken skateboard to someone if you market it correctly. That’s a lost art. People don’t realize that runway fashion is based on people who took those ideas and made it into ready-to-wear. What I need in order to move forward is someone who can take those ideas and make them marketable to the consumer. You can create ideas all day, but you need them to be well managed and orchestrated correctly. It’s all about the management of ideas, to be honest.

What would you want to hold on to ideally?

It’s really fun having a hold of the youth. The youthful energy is great. When I don’t have it I feel weird. It really comes along with that territory, this idea of curating a group of younger individuals and understudies. That’s what I would love to do. At HBA, it became like a school almost. I was learning from them as well. It was a bit of a tit for tat, and I really loved that. I loved being able to push and show them things. I don’t want to be a lone designer by myself in the atelier in some austere way.

Akeem is now an individual in fashion and has made a name for himself, and I feel like now that they’ve all had the chance to do that, I want them to come back here. Back then we were so young [that] people weren’t known yet outside of the clique, but now they are.

Now you all need a bigger stage.

Exactly. So at Helmut Lang, it’s been intriguing to work with someone’s history. That was cool. Until I can find a person to work with on the ideas that I specifically want to work with independently or under HBA, I really appreciate this idea of working toward a goal for someone else’s house…not someone else’s house, because who even knows what that means at this point. There aren’t that many houses to take over or to work with. New York is so stiff. I was just talking about this earlier—in Europe, they seem to know that there needs to be change, and they need to hand it over. The New York kids—we’re still being influential, but we’re not at the forefront taking the reins. That’s why I thought it was so cool on Andrew [Rosen]’s part to bring me on. Whenever I go to him with ideas, he’s down with them.

What have been the pros and cons of working for a more corporate fashion brand?

I have way more confidence as a designer. [At HBA] there were too many financial opinions that actually weren’t based in truth, because no one was a financial genius. Whereas here, you’re chosen to be a designer, and that’s what’s expected of you.

Did they give you freedom to execute most of your ideas?

I think with us, we’re temperature readers. So you can feel when they’re not going to go for something. and then you know exactly which ideas you want to push for.

It’s good because it helps you engage which ideas are actually important to you and which ideas you can let go. I also wanted to be respectful—I can save some of the bigger ideas for projects that are all about me. Here it’s more about bringing things to the table that I’ve become familiar with and blending them with the DNA of the brand.

Has being at Helmut Lang felt more free?

Totally. This is a vertical business structure, and we’re inserted into it. That feels much healthier as opposed to the idea that everything is about us. Also, there are so many different lines at Helmut Lang. There’s the main line, then there’s Seen by Shayne Oliver, which is a specific runway line, and there’s the re-edition collection, which is based on the past.

“I brought in all the mandatory items you would need in a fetishized world, and went from there. it’s about nailing the vibe.”

What was the first piece from Helmut that you bought?

It was a pair of black trousers that look like they are inside out. I still have them and I remade them here.

Another thing we really gravitated to here was how elegant Helmut Lang was. To me, that’s what he made more modern—the way you wear formal clothes and how you thought about a blazer and a suit and how you wore a dress. At HBA, we did extreme puffers and heavy outerwear, so we took some of those designs and brought those here and mixed them in with the eveningwear ideas.

Tell us about the accessories.

A lot of things at HBA didn’t make it to market. We didn’t have the resources. It’s not that they couldn’t be made, but if everyone was buying the T-shirt we had to spend our money on that. It all had to go back to making the T-shirts. So now here, we have things like these bra-based bags. Initially, they were only going to be for photos but then sales loved them and they went into production. At HBA, everything was a statement piece.

Here, we started out with the basics of the wardrobe and then added statement pieces, so it’s reversed.

Do you still work out of your studio? The one with the hot tub?

[Laughs] No, we shut down that space. We’re going to start fresh after the show and figure it out. Also, all of us are so independent that in the last days, it didn’t even make sense to have the space because we were all over the place and traveling so much. Where the magic happens is when we finally get into a room together, as opposed to always being in the same room. This is how people think about things now, in a lot of different ways.

Maybe it’s not based on being in an office with the same people every day anymore. The thing with HBA is it began to weigh down on me and was also financially stressful and culturally a huge burden. It just felt heavy.

Your mother has been a huge influence on your life. What does she think of your success?

She’s into it. She’s always been proud and always in it. She’s protective. She’s still influential to me. We influence each other. We’ll go back and forth about outfits and inspiration. Her feeling about everything is that she just wants to keep me safe and protected. HBA was my home, and now I’m being pushed into arenas

courtesy

S

hayne, how did you meet Isabella Burley?

Isabella had been covering the shows, so I had known her for a while. I’d see her everywhere. We’d hang out, bond and stuff like that.

One day, Akeem [Smith, Oliver’s stylist] told me that she wanted to speak to me about a project. What’s so funny is that I had been asking around about the brand to find out who was doing stuff there.

And that was when?

In November of last year.

I began working on the concepts in January and then I began working on this specific runway collection in late April and early May. How much did you consider the Helmut Lang DNA when you were designing?

I tried to get into it, but it’s not that easy because, of course, he destroyed most of it. [Helmut Lang, now considered a fine artist, shredded a reported 6,000 garments sometime in 2010 or 2011.] I went based upon how things he did felt to me—buying it on my own and looking at the things I own and how I wore them over the years, and how people in New York around me interacted with the brand. I was also interested in the idea of pornography in the clothing, and how it exudes or fetishizes the human itself. I brought in all the mandatory items you would need in a fetishized world, and went from there. It’s about nailing the vibe.

Were there specific seasons that you were into?

The first thing that came to mind for me was the collection with the metallic skirts that were made out of suit jackets and shirts and fold-over fanny packs. That resonated with where I left off with Hood By Air. From there I sort of let go, because when I saw some of the physical pieces, they were so conceptual they were, like, deteriorating, and so that also became a concept.

You make amazing things, but they deteriorate and they collapse, so it’s really about capturing a moment.

A lot of people would say that you have really captured a moment in fashion since you came on the scene.

I’m so happy that people say that now. When we stopped HBA, we felt like we were putting our all into it, and it was still being recognized not in this unappreciated way, but I would say…a junior way.

We were creating new formulas and new ways of thinking, so you can’t really be junior if you’re creating it. Obviously, it was never really about craftsmanship for us, but I guess because our ideas were so elevated, it was looked at in that context. When we came here and saw the level of craftsmanship we were like, “Oh. That’s so crazy.” When we look back on some of those HBA pieces, they hardly hold together. It’s a full-circle moment for sure.

How do you feel when you see your influence on so many other big runways?

To be honest, it’s a little infuriating. But also I realize I’m just now turning 30, so I’m grateful that I’ve had that moment to do that. I hope I’ll continue to stay gracious enough to realize that I did these things while I was pretty young, and now I can master it, and be able to know what I want and don’t want from my past.

For example…

I really want to have a business partner who really

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where I’m not familiar. She’s a momager.

Is there anyone you cast in the show that you’re really excited about?

There’s this girl, Lola, who I found at a restaurant. She’s really cute and young and adorable and really sexy. I just really like her. She doesn’t take no s**t. She works around all guys and she holds her ground while being extremely attractive and sexual. And it’s not a give and take—you get it all at once. It’s rare to see that kind of energy happen.

What restaurant did you find her in?

Lucien in the East Village. We’ve been hanging out there FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

ridiculously this past fall and winter. It was basically the nightclub of the fall.

Lucien is very small to be a nightclub!

I know! But everyone now is very into these dinners.

It’s symbolic of where everyone is at right now. Let’s sit down and actually talk to each other over a certain amount of music. The cultural vibe is still there, but you’re actually interacting with each other. It’s refreshing and nice and mature, I guess.

Music is a big part of your scene. What is your design soundtrack?

It definitely is. I’ve been listening to this French band

called Sexy Sushi, and I’ve been getting into a lot of death rock, specifically female vocalists.

How has the cultural vibe shifted since you began your career?

I think everyone now is looking at the archive of what we did and picking what they like the most out of it and taking those things and translating them into their sphere. As far as the overall vibe, true blue remains true blue. We’re all still there. It’s more like we’re family now.

Now we’re all thinking about things like finding a real apartment, whether or not we’re going to stay in New York, and things like that. We’re all growing up. ß

hannah turner-harts (6)

“here it’s more about bringing things to the table that i’ve become familiar with and blending them with the dna of the brand.”

fierce fusion An up-close look at Helmut Lang’s Seen by Shayne Oliver collection, which took Lang’s penchant for fetishizing and married it with Oliver’s high-minded take on streetwear for a collection that broke new ground for the designer and the brand.

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T O T A L

from graphic, sporty eyes to strategically placed shine, the spring ’18 beauty trends are as covetable as the season’s best clothes.

PROMOTION FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

getty images

By tangie silva

philipp plein FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

BACKSTAGE REPORT Shows by Maybelline New York SCULPTED SHADOW

Yadim for Maybelline New York swiped a dark green shadow at the outer corners of the eyes to create a bold, liner-like effect. A fuchsia shadow was applied to the cheeks for a pop of color.

get the look: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Expert Wear Eyeshadow in Fierce Fuchsia, $3.99; Define-A-Line Eyeliner in Ebony Black, $8.25, both at maybelline.com

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JASON WU

BROCK COLLECTION

courtesy

bronze eyes Gucci Westman for Maybelline New York achieved a romantic, sophisticated vibe by layering the lids with shades of pink, burgundy, and bronze.

get the look: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK FaceStudio Master Strobing Liquid Illuminating Highlighter in Nude Glow, $9.99; The City Mini Palette in Chill Brunch Neutrals, $9.99; both at maybelline.com

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BACKSTAGE REPORT SPORTY lids

For the Monse show, Grace Lee for Maybelline New York created an artsy eyeliner that nodded to the concepts of racing stripes.

get the look: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Master Precise Ink Metallic Liquid Liner in Black Comet, $8.99; Master Prime LongLasting Eyeshadow Base Prime + Illuminate, $7.99; both at maybelline.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Shows by Maybelline New York

getty images (2); all others courtesy

MONSE

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BACKSTAGE REPORT Shows by Maybelline New York metallic MOMENT

The freshest way to wear shine? By layering metallic shadow on your eyelids, then blending up toward the brow bone for a pseudosmoky affect.

get the look: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Lip Studio Shine Shot Prismatic Lip Topcoat, $5.99, maybelline.com

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public school

bibhu mohapatra

courtesy

bright lips

Whether you opt for a bright, orange-y red or something more subtle, a maximum-impact pout is this season’s easiest-toachieve accessory.

get the look: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Color Sensational Shaping Lip Liner in Very Cherry, $7.99; FaceStudio Master Blush Color & Highlight Kit, $12.99; both at maybelline.com

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chicCoifs CALVIN KLEIN hair by guido palau for redken

minimalist, classic, and modern— the hair at calvin klein underscored the brand’s dna.

mane attraction From understated glam to sophisticated updos, these runway hairstyles are a preview of the looks you’ll channel come Spring ’18.

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jason wu hair by Holli Smith for TRESemmé

coach hair by guido palau for redken

both polished and edgy hairstyles swept the runways this season.

getty images (3); firstview (2)

tanya taylor hair by JUSTINE MARJAN for TRESemmé

creatures of comfort hair by JUSTINE MARJAN for TRESemmé

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chicCoifs tory burch hair by guido palau for redken

jonathan simkhai hair by Odile Gilbert for TRESemmĂŠ

cushnie et ochs hair by Justine Marjan for TRESemmĂŠ

gEtty images (7); firstview (3)

a smooth blowout was a chic complement to the refined look at tory burch.

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MONSE hair by Odile Gilbert for TRESemmĂŠ

victoria beckham hair by guido palau for redken

firstview (5); getty images (1); hannah turner-harts (1)

alexander wang hair by guido palau for redken

helmut lang seen by shayne oliver hair by holli smith for TRESemmĂŠ

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COTERIEPreview PESERICO

peserico

RICCARDO Peruffo, CEO What’s new this season?

Colors that look like they’ve been put under ice, such as frozen berry and Veronese green. It gives them a sophisticated look. And our coats comes in a new fabric that’s extremely soft yet refined.

Who is the Peserico woman?

A dynamic woman who is culturally elevated, socially active, and sophisticated—never flashy.

What’s your Coterie uniform?

I’m only wearing products that are made in Italy— contemporary, modern, and chic.

Where can we buy the line in the U.S.?

In our 90 specialty stores, Saks, and a monobrand store in East Hampton.

What are you looking forward to?

Opening stores in Tokyo; Saint Petersburg, [Russia]; and Düsseldorf.

Where did you spend your summer?

In the U.S. with my family, and I mixed work and pleasure, traveling to Japan, Korea, and China to meet the department stores and my partners.

who’s showing Ramy Brook

September 17–19

nicole miller

NICOLE MILLER, FOUNDER & DESIGNER What’s the theme for Spring ’18?

I got on this safari kick. There’s a movie, Mogambo, set in the Kenyan safari starring Clark Gable, Ava Gardner, and Grace Kelly. Ava Gardner plays a pretty showgirl in the middle of the jungle, and she and Grace Kelly are vying for Clark Gable’s attention.

How does it crop up in the collection?

Some of the dresses are kind of ladylike but paired with safari boots. The collection is tongue-in-cheek.

What do you look forward to most in fall?

Wearing my coats! I have so many, and there aren’t enough days in the week to wear them all.

all photos courtesy

ramy brook

RAMY SHARP, FOUNDER & DESIGNER Who has been spotted wearing the line?

Selena Gomez, Emmy Rossum, and Kate Beckinsale —she loves our Allyn pant. We’re so appreciative of the celeb love!

What are you currently obsessed with?

Duke University! My son recently began his freshman year there. Our Capri Blue colorway in the Spring collection was inspired by Duke Blue.

nicole miller

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alexandra clancy

ALEXANDRA CLANCY

Marjorie Handelman, President What’s the inspo for the Spring ’18 collection?

Brooklyn street art and the colorful murals that capture the rebellious spirit of NYC. What’s new at the company?

We moved our showroom to Tribeca, and couldn’t be happier with the new space. We also introduced a line of belts and small leather goods.

agent r.e.d. INTERNATIONAL Genie Parada-Fishman, founder & owner What sets your showroom apart?

Our brands have a soul and a story to tell. They’re family-owned businesses that built their companies from the ground up.

What were you doing before this?

Before founding the showroom in 2001, I worked in corporate fashion at Liz Claiborne, GUESS, Buffalo Jeans, and Miss Sixty.

leafy natural couture bandladies

silvia vassao, designer What’s new this season?

Our signature handcrafted silk crochet line evolved into a full resort collection called Leafy Plage, featuring silk crochet swimwear pieces and caftans.

How’d you spend your summer?

I dressed clients for the Cannes Film Festival.

I headed to Marrakech, Morocco, where I started a new partnership with Nikki Beach Marrakech.

The rest of the summer was spent between NYC and Montauk.

dl1961

Sarah Ahmed, creative director What are you looking forward to this fall?

Layering! I can’t wait to break out leather leggings and denim jackets.

Who are some notable fans?

Gigi Hadid, Sienna Miller, and Lupita Nyong’o.

Why did you want to get into fashion?

My goal is to offer designs that help women get dressed with confidence, feel amazing, and stay on their A-game all day.

AGeNT R.E.D. international

bandladies

Judy Zhang, founder & brand director What does BandLadies mean?

Band has different meanings in Chinese culture.

It’s the principle that our designers always persist.

Which brands are included in the showroom?

There are five brands, and they’re all Chinese:

By Judy Zhang, Cashmere Song, TTT, RXP, and JX.JIANGXINGUOJI.

leafy natural couture

DL1961

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lola & Sophie

lola & Sophie

Julia Torannce Hemingway, director/owner What’s new this season?

Sequin statement pieces. Think a full sequin suit, palazzo pants, and dresses. We’re experimenting with new techniques on our classic leather items, adding intricate designs with injected embroidery, classic embroidery, and metal hardware.

How did you spend your summer?

We are an Australian-based brand, so summer means getting away to our beautiful Victorian coastline.

Who is the brand’s muse?

It’s a mix of Anita Pallenberg and Kate Moss.

design history

amita naithani

design & merchandising team What were the highlights of your summer?

Our favorite escapes were Mykonos and Tel Aviv.

What’s new for Spring ’18?

Cropped sweaters, fluid dresses, and a younger silhouette.

Which influencers are fans of the brand?

Xenia Van Der Woodsen (@xeniaoverdose) wore our cashmere during NYFW. Taylor Swift is a loyal fan!

toranNce

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toranNce

Gene Kagan, designer What’s new at the brand?

We’ve added new categories, such as bottoms. Plussize is gaining speed, and a retail store is in the works.

Who keeps you inspired?

Sophie, my Havanese! She’s a creature of comfort.

What were you doing before this?

I was designing for large companies, mostly private label: DKNY, PVH, Bloomingdale’s Direct.

Who are some notable fans of the line?

Kerry Washington and Katie Lowes of Scandal, Cori Broadus [Snoop Dogg’s daughter], and Karla Souza of How to Get Away With Murder.

Amita Naithani, CEO & co-founder Why’d you create your own line?

To offer women lifestyle dressing that can take them from the beach or pool into the evening.

What are you currently obsessed with?

Sheer and shine fabrics!

What are you looking forward to this fall?

We’re launching a special occasion line of dresses, skirts, and formal looks.

design history

Tel: 954.578.5687 Fax: 954.578.4431 info@iftheplanet.com www.PlanetByLaurenG.com

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barkwood

barkwood

Charniece White, founder & designer Who are your muses?

Tracee Ellis Ross, Zendaya, and Yara Shahidi.

Describe your sense of style.

The working girl who has things to do!

What are hallmarks of the brand?

Barkwood is known for versatility in age, lifestyle, and gender. Our consumers understand what it takes to be timeless, and they appreciate our transitional garments.

Who is one of the brand’s biggest fans?

Celeb choreographer Charm La’Donna.

jacquie aiche

JacquiE Aiche, founder & designer What’s new this season?

A collection of opal inlay pieces that are out of this world. I’m always reinventing my essential diamonds and gold, and gemstone pieces.

What has the brand become known for?

It’s about the powerful woman. Each girl brings her own personality to each piece. It’s about the tribe.

What are you currently obsessed with?

Our gemstone perfume bottles. It’s one of my favorite collections I’ve created. The powerful mix of the aromatherapy and healing properties energizes me and makes me smile. We need as much healing and soothing as possible in these hectic times!

wooden ships

paola buendÍa, designer & co-owner What do you love about fall?

I love when the weather turns cool and I can cozy up in an oversize sweater.

What’s your current obsession?

Sneakers, always. Right now, I’m loving my vintage Reeboks that I bought in Amsterdam.

How’d you spend your summer?

Traveling and designing. I was in Dublin, Amsterdam, and New York, and I went home to Bali.

jacquie aiche

thacker

Toni Hacker, designer & founder What was your latest getaway?

I snuck away with my husband for a road trip through New Mexico this summer. Super inspiring trip!

Who are some notable fans of the brand?

Jill Flint [of NBC show] The Night Shift was spotted carrying Thacker bags on the latest season. I was so honored that I asked her to be the face of our Fall/ Winter ’17 campaign!

the honey pot COMPANY

Beatrice Feliu-Espada, founder & CEO What are you looking forward to this fall?

We just launched our Humans With Vaginas campaign, and we’re launching our Indiegogo in October to fund our overall growth and new tampon line.

What else is new and exciting at the brand?

We launched at Target nationwide back in April!

wooden ships

thacker

the honey pot COMPANY

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JACOB JAVITS CENTER - SPRING/SUMMER 2018

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