september 8, 2019
starry
night
your (totally inside) scoop on the fashion media awards!
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HALSEY, C’EST TOI?
Malcolm Carfrae, Nicky Zimmermann, and Laura Brown
Sanne Vloet
Nicky Rothschild
Aerin Lauder and Anh Duong
zimmermaNN PARTY
Katie Holmes
The Daily Wonders… What’s Brandusa Niro the last Editor in Chief, CEO thing you ingested?
YOUR DAILY DOSE scene
The fashion set’s unofficial back-to-school moment comes courtesy of Zimmermann, which always finds a reason to celebrate with a chicster-stocked dinner. This season’s edition was held at Flora Bar, just a short walk from the brand’s newest boutique at 900 Madison Avenue. Katie Holmes and Laura Brown mastered the art of the selfie, while Casey Fremont, Chloe Malle, Samantha Angelo, and others dug into a delicious din of lobster dumplings and the tastiest tiramisu known to man.
BLISTER
We’d never ask you to abandon your beautifully impractical Fashion Week footwear. However, a pro tip: Stock up on Welly Blister Blasters hydrocolloid pads, and your pieds will thank you. Designed to wrap around fingers and toes, they seal in moisture while protecting you from dirt and germs.
Simone Zimmermann
Athena Calderone Talita von Furstenberg, Nicky Zimmermann, and Olympia of Greece
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Dean Quigley Senior Editor Alexandra Ilyashov
“I’m basically mainlining coffee at this point.”
Digital Director Charles Manning Fashion News Editor Aria Darcella Editors-at-Large Charlotte and Sophie Bickley West Coast Editor-at-Large Jordan Duffy
“Cold brew and hot green tea, chugged seconds apart. Because I don’t have (but need) a caffeine IV drip.”
Contributing Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Romke Hoogwaerts Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise
Interns Julie Calmes, Melissa Florio, Innara Gazizova, Nell Greer, Caroline Lane
Senior Director, Brand Partnerships Betsy Jones Executive Sales Director Carrie Brudner Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman
News Quiz!
Who is Christopher John Rogers? A. The guy who’s running Condé Nast’s 23 Stories
Event Director Alex Dickerson Publishing & Market Research Nandini Vaid
B. Brigitte Macron’s rumored BF
Digital Operations Daniel Chivu
C. The former DVF staffer who revealed his buzzy latest collection on Saturday
Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
D. The guy who plays Greg on Succession. He’s the best!
ANSWER: C
PROMOTION
WHAT A RIDE!
“Spicy margarita at the FMAs, cheers!”
Executive Editor Ashley Baker
Imaging Specialists George Maier, Nola Romano
BANISHMENT!
Katie Lee
Chief Content Officer Eddie Roche
Danielle Bernstein
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.
neil rasmus/bfa.com (12); shutterstock (3); getty images (2); all others courtesy
Sai De Silva
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We’re loving all the fab new custom-branded BMW 7 Series sedans that have been spotted at NYFW: The Shows so far. Two of them even squired Karen Elson and Emily DiDonato to the Fashion Media Awards!
On the covers
Left Cover: Emily Ratajkowski at the 2019 Fashion Media Awards, photo by Caroline Fiss. Insets (from top): Louis Carreon and Kate Moss, photo by Getty Images; Zendaya, Tommy Hilfiger, and Dee Ocleppo, photo by Getty Images; Adut Akech, Edward Enninful, and Yara Shahidi, photo by Hannah Turner-Harts; Ashley Graham and Halima Aden, photo by Hannah Turner-Harts; Raissa Gerona and Negin Mirsalehi, photo by Hannah Turner-Harts. Right Cover: (From left) Nina Agdal and Blair Eadie, photos by Getty Images; Bella Harris and Christie Ferrari, photos courtesy; Cipriana Quann, photo by Getty Images; Nicole Williams-English, photo courtesy; Olivia Caputo, photo by Wil Weiss.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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@ N I C O L E M I L L E R N YC
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SCENE
E! Entertainment, Elle, and IMG hosted the NYFW kickoff party at the Top of the Standard. AND ON THE UES… Ermenegildo Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori toasted Oscar winner Mahershala Ali, the face of the brand’s new campaign, with an intimate soirée.
zegna party
This AI influencer du moment was created by Cameron-James Wilson; we chatted with Ama Badu, Shudu’s muse, to get the scoop on this viral sensation. What’s your birthday? My birthday is April 22, 2017. Because of my nature, my birth date doesn’t work in quite the same way as yours. I’m 28 years old now, but I’m not restricted to time and age in the same way you are. It’s part of the beauty of existing as a digital being. Where did you grow up? West London, but my family and I traveled a lot when I was younger. I was a fearless child, always outdoors, always exploring, and always getting into trouble. Does it ever get lonely to exist solely on the Internet? Not at all. It’s a part of how I am created, so it’s as natural to me as breathing is to you. I think moments alone are so valuable for everyone. How do you sleep at night? Peacefully. It’s really easy for me shut down and fall asleep.
Q&A:
VICTORIA HAYES
Marianne Fonseca
Cody Simpson
Halima Aden and Sailor Brinkley-Cook
NYFW kickoff PARTY Aamito Lagum
Devon Windsor
Ruby Aldridge Erin Lim
COMING UP ROSES!
Haley Kalil
CHILLAX!
Are you relying on CBD as much as the rest of us to get through your frantic Fashion Week? Our favorite form of the day is through Cygalle’s Alpine Rose Stem Cell Moisturizer. $200, cygallebeauty.com
Rocky Barnes Ashley Longshore
What inspired your show? Childhood nostalgia, growing up in the ’90s, and Space Jam. I ended up playing basketball for eight years after watching that movie as a kid. How’s business? Challenging, as always. I have never had a month go by where I’ve felt like things are easy and everything is working as it should be. We’ve had good responses to our Fall 2019 collection, which I’m excited about, and are gearing up for what I hope will be a good market for Spring ’20. Madonna wore some of our garments in her music video for “Crave” off Madame X, which has been a career highlight for me for sure; I have always loved Madonna. Struggles are too numerous to list here! What’s your dream collaboration? I would love to collaborate with Shirley Manson of Garbage on a capsule collection of tour-inspired looks. I’m a huge fan of hers. How will you celebrate post-show? Sleeping! And finishing my best friend’s custom bridal gown for her wedding 10 days after my first NYFW runway show.
Our essential oil obsession continues with Phenic’s rose beauty oil, infused with the essential oil of this beautiful flower. It’s fast-absorbing and leaves your skin totally luminous. Best to keep it in your Prada bag and apply easily and often! $27, phenicskincare.com
getty images (14); joe schildhorn/bfa.com (4); darian dicianno/bfa.com (3); madison voelkel/bfa.com (3); ; all others courtesy
MEET SHUDU!
Nina Garcia
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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ChicMoments
REMEMBER The Fashion Media Awards again gathered fashion’s finest, this year at the Rainbow Room, to celebrate their contributions to our industry.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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A NIGHT TO
getty images (10); caroline fiss (5); ryan liu (1); hannah turner-harts (1)
FRONT ROW FABULOSITY A-listers as far as the eye can see.
Jake Dietrich and Graham Norton Christian Louboutin and Maye Musk
graham norton Graham Norton
EVENT EMCEE
“You know a lot of award shows now go hostless. I can assure you, I’m the next best thing. Let’s get this started, because nobody’s ever complained about an awards show being too short. It’s a bit like sex—the sooner we start, the sooner we finish. And we’ve all been at the open bar, so we need to wrap up before any one of us says or does something that will get us canceled.”
Sophie Sumner
“St. Moss,” an oil and acrylic painting, by Louis Carreon
tommy hilfiger presenter Tommy Hilfiger and Dee Ocleppo
“Zendaya you are a change maker, and it’s been so inspiring to see you and your passion creating a difference in the world. You motivate the new generation with your commitment to making fashion more inclusive, more diverse, and more meaningful. It’s really a pleasure and an honor to have this opportunity to work with you.”
zendaya Fashion Force
Zendaya
“Fashion for me is really just emotional, right? It’s allowed me to just really say, ‘I don’t give an F!’ It’s the one thing that has allowed me to really find out who I am and be more courageous, and fearless. I definitely owe that to Law [Roach], my stylist.… When I step out, he says, “Do you care, though? Do you really care? How do you feel?” It’s always about how you feel before you step outside. What is that emotion that you feel before you go out? It’s the only one, the only opinion that should ever matter to you.”
Jordan Barrett and Kate Moss
Emily DiDonato
Eric Rutherford GUTTER CREDITS tk
getty images (10); caroline fiss (5); ryan liu (1); hannah turner-harts (1)
Adut Akech, Kate Moss, and Cecilia Bönström
Aquaria Zendaya
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ChicMoments cecilia BÖNSTRÖM presenter
“[Kate] is someone who has succeeded in imposing her own style on generations of women, and obviously me. She’s been an inspiration to me for a long time. She’s now the face of our winter campaign, and I’m very lucky to collaborate with her on our accessories line. But most of all, she’s a woman who has proven herself, because she’s independent, and she has an endless and extremely powerful career. And she’s always been faithful to her own personality and style.”
jordan barrett presenter
“I have something she wants me to say, I think. If I think about the first time I met Kate…in this entire room, if I think of one icon in the fashion industry, or in most ways, I would say that it is Kate Moss. You’re also really good at cutting hair!”
kate moss Fashion icon
“I’m going to be short and just say thank you very much for having me here. Thank you for this award. And to everyone I’ve worked with, thank you. Have a good evening.”
Cecilia Bönström, Kate Moss, and Jordan Barrett
Yara Shahidi Presenter
“Edward is the truest definition of a taste maker and innovator, embracing what inclusion means in all aspects of the word, and intentionally expanding who we choose to put on covers, and in the pages of one of the most highly regarded magazines. Plus, he does it while being so kind!” Samantha Angelo
Adut Akech Presenter
Adut Akech, Edward Enninful, and Yara Shahidi
Edward ENNINFUL
magazine of the year, british vogue
Sailor Brinkley-Cook
“When I started at British Vogue two years ago, an industry said that a Vogue that championed diversity and activism wouldn’t succeed. But the passionate way that readers have reacted has shown that not only has the world changed, but that it was ready for a whole new kind of Vogue, too.… I’d also like to dedicate this award to Peter Lindbergh and the beautiful legacy he leaves behind.” Emily DiDonato RJ King FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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hannah turner-harts (11); getty images (10); ryan liu (2); caroline fiss (1)
“On the pages of British Vogue, you have galvanized the entire fashion industry.”
stephen gan presenter
“Indya Moore embodies a philosophy once imparted to me by the late Karl Lagerfeld. He said, ‘I’m not impressed by those who are born beautiful. I’m more impressed by those who represent the will of beauty.’ But she’s not just beautiful, she’s brave. Nowadays, bravery is the most prized quality in the fashion world. It’s a triumph for me when things once deemed alternative are accepted. And not just accepted, but celebrated by the mainstream.”
indya moore cover of the year, elle
Indya Moore
Raissa Gerona, Halima Aden, and Candice Swanepoel
“It’s hard to celebrate being celebrated for being myself during a time when people like me are being murdered for being themselves.… While we make up 0.6 percent of the American population, the life expectancy of trans women and femmes is 35 years old. That means that I may not live past 35 simply because I’m black and trans. Existence that requires bravery is not freedom. A life that requires bravery is not free. I accept this award in honor of the truth that the best award, and the award we all deserve, is to be able to get home safe.”
Indya Moore and Stephen Gan Ashley Graham Halima Aden
gelo
ashley graham hannah turner-harts (11); getty images (10); ryan liu (2); caroline fiss (1)
presenter
“Not often do you meet someone who can instantly captivate you with a contagious smile and confident energy. For me, that person is my sister and friend Halima Aden. From becoming her town’s first Muslim homecoming queen to being the first Miss Minnesota pageant contestant to wear a hijab and burkini on-stage, Halima is breaking barriers and redefining traditional beauty standards everywhere she goes.”
halima aden breakthrough model
“I’ve been told I’m not American enough. I’ve been told I’m not a good Muslim. But I’ve also heard from thousands of people around the world telling me that I’m changing the narrative, and I’m an inspiration. That is why I continue to do what I do, and I do it on my own terms. For all the young girls out there who have never felt represented, or seen anyone who looks like them in a space like this, this award goes to you.… Don’t change yourself, change the game.”
Jordan Roth
Nita Mann, Steven Lagos, and Samantha Crompton
g FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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ChicMoments Sasha Siem performs her original song “Holy”
Tan France
Candice Swanepoel, Zoey Grossman, and Indya Moore
tan france presenter
James Turlington Sasha Siem
Candice Swanepoel
sasha siem
presenter
“Zoey [Grossman] has an ease and lightness about her, and she happens to be one of the most creative women I know. Her ease instantly makes anyone who works with her comfortable and confident in her vision, from her eye for lighting, her intuition for capturing not just beauty, but also playfulness and movement. She is outspokenly principled and uses her platform as a voice for good.”
Zoey Grossman
“I’m so nervous. I’m so used to being behind the scenes and the camera. And I wear sweatpants every day, so this is a big deal for me!… I’ve worked really hard to find and express my voice as a photographer, and I’ve put my heart and soul into every job, no matter how big or small, because I really love what I do so much.… I want to genuinely connect with everyone that I shoot. And if I can make someone in front of my lens feel beautiful, confident, or empower them, then it’s a success.”
Vanessa Williams
raissa gerona
Accepting fashion Visionary Award on behalf of REVOLVE’s Michael Mente “When Michael and Mike started the business 15 years ago, they set out to build the next generation of retail and connect with the customer better than anyone. They’ve been able to do this with great product, a data-driven approach, and, of course, an innovative and disruptive marketing strategy. And that’s what visionaries are—they do things that have never been done before, because they see the big picture.… Let’s continue to support, build, and revolve around the world together.”
Negin Mirsalehi
Raissa Gerona
negin mirsalehi
Influencer of the Year, presented by revolve
Philippe Hoerle-Guggenheim
Garrett Neff
“Since this is a people’s choice award, I want to dedicate my speech to everyone who voted, and to everybody who is in any doubt about making decisions about their future.… I was really scared at the beginning to put myself out there.… I also Francisco Lachowski and want to thank...Raissa Gerona. I want to thank Jessiann Gravel Beland her especially for believing, growing, and shaping the influencer industry.”
Aimee Song
aimee song Presenter
“To call [Michael] a visionary out here building one of the fastest-growing and now public fashion e-commerce sites on the planet would be an understatement. He had the foresight to work with young people like me.… This is the kind of business and marketing genius that led him to disrupt the fashion industry with an amazing team by his side.”
Ramy Brook Sharp
GUTTER CREDITS tk
Candice Swanepoel
“I don’t surf. But I do see the need for a new wave in our world. There is so much rupture. So much dishonoring. So much disunity. Is that just me? It’s not just in Britain, but on American TV, too. I think part of the reason I dedicate my life to music is because I recognize that through sound we can create waves. By coming together and singing and enjoying music, we can join together in unity.… Music can bring us from harm to holy.”
getty images (12); caroline fiss (2); ryan liu (1); hannah turner-harts (1)
New Wave award
zoey grossman Photographer of the Year
“This young lady sings, she plays instruments, she’s been writing original songs since she was a wee tween. She’s also an accomplished composer. She has a PhD from Harvard. Also, there’s pretty much nothing this young lady cannot do. Her name is Sasha Siem. Her third album, Holy, is dropping in the fall, and it’s been influenced by a wealth of cultures, including South African, British, and Scandinavian. Without further ado, Sasha Siem!”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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ChicMoments kathy ireland presenter
Emily Ratajkowski
Kathy Ireland
“Emily [Ratajkowski] is a person whose voice cannot be silenced. Whose talents are shining, and whose passion for entrepreneurialism are a beacon of hope for women and men everywhere. And the self-propelled success of her Inamorata brand proves that when concerns for others out-weigh self-interests, success—albeit with challenges—is in the grasps of all of us. [Emily has gone from] runways to film sets, to the most glamorous endorsements, to powerful leadership.”
Victor Glemaud and Frédéric Fekkai
emily Ratajkowski
Kathy Ireland and Emily Ratajkowski
Keytt and Alex Lundqvist
Karen Elson
karen elson
Frédéric Fekkai and Yara Shahidi
Victor Glemaud Presenter
“You can thank this man for some of the most iconic looks in fashion history. As he’s recently reacquired his brand, he continues to push the boundaries of conventional wisdom, and is committed to launching products with a positive impact. He recently made his mark in the natural space with his beauty and lifestyle brand, and he continues to innovate haircare with his upcoming launch of his new, luxury, natural haircare line. This summer, during my Resort ’20 presentation, I had the pleasure of seeing the master at work. It was a sight to see. His kindness and charm electrified the room and captivated models, while his extraordinary Fekkai team brilliantly executed his vision.”
frÉdÉric fekkai
presenter
“Creativity, ingenuity, fearlessness, and raw talent are just a few things that make a brilliant designer.… Tomo’s designs have struck a playful and fanciful chord. Each piece is a work of art, and his vision is completely unique.… He reminded us of the days when fashion wasn’t all about commodity or commercialism, but about pure artistic and creative vision. It’s our responsibility as a community in fashion to support and mentor the most interesting, creative, bold, daring, and dynamic minds. And Tomo is exactly that.”
Beauty innovator
Frédéric Fekkai and Karen Elson
tomo koizumi
“To be recognized at the Fashion Media Awards, it’s touching for me. I know some of you don’t know, but I sold my company 10 years ago, and I just bought it back recently. Some people ask, “Why are you doing this?” And I guess it’s something you can’t stop doing—is to go back and be creative and free. So it’s been a busy year for me, managing two brands, and I wanted to come back by creating a wonderful clean formula, and bringing sustainable packaging, and to bring a message to say, “I’m back”…to show that you care for your hair and also for the planet. It’s a great privilege to be recognized by The Daily tonight.”
Design debut
“Thank you, Karen. Thank you so much for this great honor. I just wanted to give a big thanks to Marc [Jacobs] and Katie [Grand] for giving me a chance and opportunity to showcase my works to the world. I’m so happy it has turned out the way it did. I’m so grateful for all the people who’ve embraced my eccentric ideas. You have inspired me to work even harder. Thank you so much.”
getty images (9); caroline fiss (2); patrickmcmullan.com (1); hannah turner-harts (1)
fashion entrepreneur “Starting a business as a woman who has been thought of as nothing more than a sex symbol and a fashion model can be difficult.… Another thing Kathy [Ireland] said to me today was about how important it is to surround yourself with great people. I have been so lucky in that regard. I wasn’t going to cry! Bringing on my best friend—who I’ve known since I was 14 from my hometown in San Diego—Kat Mendenhall, who has worked in fashion for 10-plus years, has been unspeakably important, lucky, and so, so special. Building Inamorata these past two years with you, Kat, has been one of the biggest joys of my life.”
Adut Akech
Tomo Koizumi Josephine Skriver
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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Photograph by Richard Avedon, © The Richard Avedon Foundation
Hearst Magazines. The world’s leading data-driven fashion media company. We know what the future holds—it’s performance and style together. That’s how we built the world’s biggest and best portfolio of fashion and luxury media brands. Smart. Stylish. Trusted. Global.
©2019 Hearst Magazine Media, Inc.
ChicMoments
Negin Mirsalehi won The Daily and revolve’s first-ever Influencer of the Year award, presented by Raissa Gerona. This was a popular vote award, where Mirsalehi was chosen from 14 nominees, all highprofile influencers in the fashion world.
Arcade games, but make it fashion! arcade1up provided chicly attired games for the crowd to play during the cocktail hour.
krenoir’s Jean Park, spotted with one of the divine exotic bags from her collection.
Rose Bertram in Zadig & Voltaire, and Charlotte D’Alessio carrying the brand’s new Kate Bag, co-designed by Kate Moss and Cecilia Bönström for Zadig & Voltaire.
getty images (5); ryan liu (4); hannah turner-harts (4); caroline fiss (3)
rebag’s vibrant yellow flower wall displayed the most luxe bags on the market, which influencers got their hands on as they filed into the awards.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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ChicMoments
AFTERPAY, the fashion world’s preeminent shopping tool, set up a live tableau at the Rainbow Room; the three models (two in red, one in white) were wearing REVOLVE, styled by Von Ford, and with makeup by Dani Levy.
Artist LOUIS CARREON unveiled his painting of Kate Moss, titled “St. Moss,” which he then gifted to the Style Icon winner.
FIJI Water brought its very own FIJI WATER GIRLS, to the delight of the well-hydrated attendees.
Special thanks to…
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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rainbow room for being a revelation, once again, for so many of the vips in attendance. caroline fiss (5); randi alegre (4); ryan liu (4); hannah turner-harts (3); getty images (1)
Libations from Kronenbourg 1664 Blanc, Casamigos, and Whispering Angel.
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ChicMoments
Sublime Strands photography BY caroline fiss
Frédéric Fekkai Salon on Madison Avenue hosted a pre-FMAs styling suite for chic faces like Sophie Sumner, Sarah Chiwaya, Krystal Bick, Michelle Blashka, Jessica Surowiec, and Frédéric Fekkai’s Sanjana Arefin and Aylin Ozdinc. Guests enjoyed coif refreshes by fabulous Fekkai stylists using products from The One: Pure Collection, sipped Two Chicks canned cocktails and Whispering Angel rosé, and sampled Bastide Perfume’s fragrances. Tressed to perfection!
Sophie Sumner
Sanjana Arefin Nandini Vaid
Krystal Bick
Michelle Blashka
Blashka, mid-mane revamp
Frédéric Fekkai Salon for the amazing space, stylists, and products; Two Chicks and Whispering Angel for the libations; Bastide Perfumes for the scent bar
Jessica Surowiec
GUTTER CREDITS tk
very special thanks TO…
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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As delicious as they are gorgeous. Founded, owned and run by women, Two Chicks Cocktails are Lovingly Mixed with natural essences of fruit and botanicals. Spirits based sparkling cocktails for connecting and sharing. Love, Two Chicks @twochickscocktails #LovinglyMixed #CocktailsforConnecting
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chicMoments
Sasha Siem
sound
Gillian Miniter
check
Siem warmly greets a guest
photography BY caroline fiss
Yonah Ghermezian
Sharon Horowitz
Evelyn Subramaniam and Susan Shin
Before the whirlwind of NYFW kicked off, musician and Fashion Media Awards’ New Wave winner Sasha Siem serenaded an intimate crowd on Wednesday at a chic private event space at The Park Loggia, a luxury residential development near Lincoln Center, opening late 2019. At the event, co-hosted by Gillian Miniter and Marc Rozic, Siem performed five original songs, seated at a Steinway baby grand piano inside The Park Loggia’s gracious private event space looking out on the property’s wraparound terrace and garden. The singer, songwriter, and composer’s third album, Holy, drops this fall. Guests included Sophie Sumner, Alex and Keytt Lundqvist, Yonah Ghermezian, Tobias Sorensen, The Voice winner Chris Weaver, People’s Dan Wakeford, Cheyenne Lutek, Stephanie “Chefanie” Nass, ShoesOf ’s Lexi Cross and Huston Conti, Kevin Hubsmith, Page Six’s Mara Siegler, The Knot’s Shelley Brown, Rouge18’s Amber Katz, Nordstrom’s Gigi Ganatra Duff, Cherie Corso, and William McLarnon. It was a much-needed melodic respite, prior to a packed season of shows.
Lucas Baker, Dan Wakeford, The Daily’s Eddie Roche, and Marc Rozic
Ashley Kossakowski, Nina Nesbitt, and Sarah Gilly
Alex and Keytt Lundqvist
GUTTER CREDITS tk
Lira Lee and Sasa Nikolic
Sophie Sumner
GUTTER CREDITS tk
Tobias Sorensen, Cherie Corso, and Chris Weaver
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I LY. C O M
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212 698 1561
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9/3/19 7:25 PM
ChicMoments
Winner’s
Circle
photography by hannah turner-harts
Before this year’s spectacular Fashion Media Awards, honorees and presenters gathered for an intimate lunch at The Park Loggia, a luxury residential development near Lincoln Center, opening in late 2019. Guests such as Emily Ratajkowski, Kathy Ireland, Nina Garcia, Halima Aden, Frédéric Fekkai, Philippe Hoerle-Guggenheim, Charlotte Bickley, Sophie Bickley, Tomo Koizumi, Sasha Siem, Zoey Grossman, and Tan France sat down for an intimate lunch by culinary legend Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The illustrious chef kicked things off with peach salad with goat cheese, frisée, and pistachio, followed by black sea bass with market corn and cherry tomato vinaigrette, and ended on a delicious high note—heavenly strawberry sundaes. The gathering also celebrated the American release of beloved talk show host and FMA emcee Graham Norton’s latest novel, A Keeper. Aden had an E! film crew following her at the lunch, while Norton revealed he’d be filling his time between the meal and the FMAs with an appearance on The Late Show With Stephen Colbert. France arrived a few minutes late because he was speaking on a panel at Spring Studios earlier with Negin Mirsalehi, winner of The Daily and Revolve’s inaugural Influencer of the Year award at the FMAs. Insane schedules? It must be Fashion Week!
Emily Ratajkowski and Nina Garcia
Frédéric Fekkai and Shirin von Wulffen
Halima Aden
The Daily’s Eddie Roche, Chloe Olsen, Sasha Siem, Halima Aden, Kathy Ireland, and Tan France
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Charlotte Bickley, Emily Ratajkowski, and Sophie Bickley
Sasha Siem
Tomo Koizumi
Zoey Grossman
Tan France and Graham Norton
Emily Ratajkowski
Chloe Olsen and Kathy Ireland
aw alert Ratajkowski met her role model, Kathy Ireland, for the first time ever at the luncheon. Ireland arrived in NYC just hours earlier (with her daughter, Chloe Olsen) to present EmRata’s award. So sweet.
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RisingStar VERSACE Tweed jacket, cropped top, fringe skirt, and bag
Bella of The
Ball
Bella Harris grew up as Hollywood royalty, but she certainly isn’t resting on her laurels. The driven 19-year-old is now modeling, studying, and preparing for world domination. What motivates this fresh face? THE DAILY delves in! BY EDDIE ROCHE photography by hannah turner-harts styled by angel macias hair by shawn nakamura for wen makeup by claudia lake for m.a.c pro
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DIRTY PINEAPPLE Colorful Lines Sunday hoodie and sweatpants, and Monday blazer
Your dad is James “Jimmy Jam” Harris, the legendary music producer who has worked with everyone, including Janet Jackson and Mariah Carey. What was your upbringing like? Every year, we’d go to the Grammys. It was a staple in our life—we still go. We’d go to concerts and afterward, the singer would want to meet my dad and fangirl over him while my brothers and I were fangirling over the artists. It was so cool to see, because it’s obviously not something most people get to experience.
Who were some of the biggest stars you’ve gotten to meet over the years? I think I’ve met everyone at this point…Rihanna, Beyoncé, The Weeknd, and Drake. You name it, I’ve met them. Because of that, I got to Snapchat for Teen Vogue at the Grammy Awards. I also did [a Snapchat takeover] for V Magazine, where I took people behind the scenes to show them what the Grammys were like from the artists’ perspective. That experience merged fashion and music, which are huge staples in my life.
Did you have any desire to be in music? When I was 8 years old, I went on tour with Andrea Bocelli. I did a Christmas special with him and David Foster; we performed in Las Vegas. These days, I want to learn how to play piano or guitar. I have no desire to be a singer now, but maybe in the future. My main focuses are modeling and school right now. How were you discovered as a model? I’ve been with Elite for one year. The owner, Eddie Trump, has a mutual friend with my dad, so I met with Eddie and the other agents at Elite and ended up
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RisingStar
ALEXANDER WANG Fitted poplin twin set, foldover men’s trousers, and W gold-embossed belt
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all images courtesy
signing with them. I had been with LA Models, which I signed with when I was 13. I was tall and people kept asking if I should model. You’re still in college. What are you studying? I go to FIDM [Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising] in Los Angeles, and I’m studying apparel industry management. We learn how to sew, sketch, marketing, branding—everything that goes into owning a brand. It’s been beneficial. I’ve had capsule collection opportunities, so I wanted to get the behindthe-scenes experience to see how everything is done before I delve into fashion. I wanted more knowledge. You’re a Gen Z girl. What does that mean to you? I’ve done research on our generation, and we’re about taking ownership rather than working under someone. We want to be bosses. We also want to make the world a better place. Gen Z is compassionate, diverse, and open to everybody. We see the bad in the world and want to change it. We’re the first generation born [and raised] with cell phones. Our whole lives, we’ve only known the iPhone and technology. You’re a twin! What has that experience been like? Very interesting! Growing up, I never thought there was anything different about it, because I always had a twin. People always said I was so lucky, and I really am. Our family is close, but my twin brother and I are in sync all the time. It’s cool having someone always there. I know his friends. He knows my friends. We’re partners! You and Kaia Gerber have known each other for a long time. I grew up in Malibu and we’d see each other at all these events, and then we ended up getting close because we could relate to each other about modeling at a young age. We’d understand each other’s schedules. I love Kaia! You’ve walked in Alice + Olivia’s show. What’s your relationship like with the brand’s designer, Stacey Bendet? My aunt lived in New York for a little bit and became good friends with Stacey. I went over to her house one day and she said, “Who are you?! I need to use you for my show.” She’s become a mentor to me. What are your goals in the fashion world? I want to own my own brand. My mom has always said you need four things. Right now, my four things are college, developing a show, a collaboration opportunity, and my modeling career. I’m excited about what’s ahead!
GUTTER CREDITS tk
“my mom has always said you need four things. right now, my four things are college, developing a show, a collaboration OPPORTUNITY, and my modeling career.”
DSQUARED2 Tie and dye top, check wool dropped military shirt, Madonna cross and chain belt; vintage jeans
Hair
Apparent Chaz Dean, a family friend of Harris’s, changed the mane biz in the early aughts with his Wen brand, but a 2015 controversy almost ruined everything. Now he’s back, and ready to take things to the next level.
all images courtesy
GUTTER CREDITS tk
BY ALYSSA HARDY How’d you enter the coif industry? I went to school for commercial photography. Then, I wanted more experience, so I went to school for hair, to incorporate into my photography. I started working at age 19 as an assistant at a salon. One day, I asked them, “I don’t understand why you have your own product line, but you don’t have your own deep conditioner.” They said, “If you want, we’ll hook you up with the lab to help us create one.” How did Wen enter the picture? Eventually, the salon owners asked if I wanted to purchase the business from them, and I did. When I worked for them, you had to sell their products. The day I said yes to them is the day I gave up lather
shampoo, and went on a new journey. I learned that lather was stripping my clients’ hair. I went to my garden, got sage, rosemary, lavender, and eucalyptus, and boiled them in my kitchen with apples, bananas, and pears, like an elixir. I cleansed my hair with it and it didn’t lather; it literally was like a tea, but because of its astringent and moisturizing properties, my hair felt clean—not squeaky clean—but not stripped, and my scalp felt invigorated. I went to the lab with my moisturizing sage conditioner, and my astringent rosemary conditioner. After I owned the salon, I’d order products from [the lab], but I never, ever ordered shampoo. It took me almost five years to create Wen; it had to be perfect. You launched Wen via TV commercials. Why? I knew I had a product I needed to talk about, but I didn’t want a huge company to come in, steamroll me, and take credit. I realized I needed a platform to explain what it was and how to use it, because just sitting on a shelf, what does Cleansing Conditioner mean? It didn’t mean anything to anyone at the time. Wen has faced challenges, like a major scandal over claims that the product causes hair loss… In 2015, I became the No. 1 beauty brand at QVC. I’m the sole owner. I don’t have partners. I don’t have shareholders. None of that. So I became a target, and it was easier than going after a huge corporation. Everyone in the world shampoos and conditions or cleanses their hair. So what about all these people who don’t use Wen that experience hair loss? Whether due to thyroid [issues], medications,
or other factors, there’s hundreds of reasons hair loss happens. But once that narrative was out, anyone who’d ever used Wen was like, “Well, I have hair loss, it’s gotta be that.” I didn’t believe it—the testing you go through to get on QVC is intense, so I knew we had that in our back pocket, but I went into high gear. I found experts around the world to do any testing possible to prove Wen couldn’t cause hair loss. It took years, and it [cost] me millions of dollars. It changed everything. Did QVC support you? QVC did stand behind me. I’m grateful. They got backlash too, but they still continue [to support Wen]. We’re launching a website to break down everything for people who still have questions. Any special client relationships? Lisa Rinna—we’ve been friends for more than 26 years. Before she was on Days of Our Lives, she worked at the eyeglass store next to my salon in the Glen Centre mall. She’d always come over when they didn’t have clients and we’d chat. Her hair was long at the time and she asked me, “If you could do anything to my hair, what would you do?” I said I’d cut it short, a very Gina Gershon sort of shag from Showgirls. I gave her that now-iconic cut. What’s next for you? I’m opening a salon in New York at 59 Greenwich Avenue in January 2020. It took three years, but I know and believe it’s going to do great.
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mustFollow
influencers to watch Gabrielle Caunesil
@gabriellecaunesil followers: 899K
Ahead, 50 influencers in fashion, beauty, and lifestyle who are dominating our feeds. They have eclectic backgrounds, aesthetics, and clout ( from less than 20K to 2M followers), but all these handles are equally captivating us this season.
Shaun Ross @shaundross followers: 573K
Mary Lawless Lee @happilygrey followers: 948K
CailLi and Sam Beckerman @beckermanblog followers: 159K
Charlotte Bickley @yin2myyang followers: 115K
Blair Eadie @blaireadiebee followers: 1.4m
Christie Ferrari
Jovel Roystan @jovelroystan followers: 83.8k
How did you become an influencer? “Though I’ve always loved fashion–cliché, I know–I went to school to become a psychologist. I’d always shared my mirror OOTDs with friends and family; I made my Instagram public in 2013 and launched my blog as a creative outlet. After graduating (I’m officially a Dr.), my husband and I moved to NYC. The opportunity came to give it a real shot, and I took it!”
Douglas Joseph @dougiejoseph followers: 61.2K
Jessica Wang @jessicawang followers: 709k
Instagram caption strategy: “I try to show more of my personality and inject humor through my captions because my photos can come off a bit serious. I’m pretty sarcastic in real life. Most of the time, it comes naturally to me, but if a friend says something really witty, I’ll make a note and save it for later. I guess the real strategy is surrounding yourself with people who make you laugh.”
Most surprising place you’ve ever ’grammed? “Hollywood, the morning of the 2018 Oscars. I’d been thinking about getting back into acting for a while, after taking almost nine years off. A friend was working the show and brought me along; it was my chance to see the industry up close during one of its most exciting moments. I sat on the red carpet surrounded by artists I respect so much. It was unforgettable. The next day, I looked up acting classes, and I’ve been back at it ever since.”
Sophie Bickley
@yin2myyang followers: 115K
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@christie_ferrari followers: 535k
getty images (7); hannah turner-harts (1); all others courtesy
How did you create your handle? “I started my site, AtlanticPacific, in April 2010, before Instagram! I didn’t realize how connected social media and my site would become— it was still a hobby. (Silly me.) Instead of using @atlanticpacific, I picked my name and initials.” Current ’gram obsessions: “I have a filter for who I follow—you post amazing outfits or styling, you make me laugh, I often learn something new from you, or you’re an animal. I’m loving Heather McMahan, Benito Skinner, Katie Jane Hughes, and Alfie the Alpaca.”
Christian Bendek @christianbendek followers: 149K
Nicole WilliamsEnglish
Moti Ankari @motiankari followers: 193K
@justtnic followers: 1.8M
Nina Agdal @ninaagdal followers: 1.7M
How did you become an influencer? “To be honest, I didn’t know what an influencer was until a few years ago. When I started filming WAGS, I began noticing my following drastically growing, and brands contacting me more often to collaborate. I didn’t realize the strength I had!”
Caroline Daur @carolinedaur followers: 2M
Jenn Lake @jenniferlake followers: 174k
Natalie Lim Suarez @natalieoffduty followers: 636K
Biggest misconception about being an influencer? “That we’re all dreaming of doing it full-time. I’m not looking to give up my career—I’ve worked in PR for the past 16 years—to focus solely on my blog, Style Charade, or social media. I love balancing both. I’m a huge proponent that you can have a full-time job and still be an influencer on the side.”
Justin Livingston @justinliv followers: 336K
Grace Atwood @graceatwood followers: 121k
Igee Okafor @igeeokafor followers: 86.4K
Any regrettable Instagram Stories? “No! That’s the beauty of Stories—if you regret it, it’s gone in a day!”
Cipriana Quann @ciprianaquann followers: 233K
GUTTER CREDITS tk
getty images (7); hannah turner-harts (1); all others courtesy
Current ’gram obsessions? “@round.boys, which is all very round animals. My friend tagged me in one photo, and I can’t stop liking things.”
Maria alia @mariaalia followers: 426K
Katie Jane Hughes @katiejanehughes followers: 344K
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MUSTFollow
Preston Konrad
@prestonkonrad followers: 110K
Will Taylor
Gregory Dava
@brightbazaar followers: 308K
@gregorydava followers: 141k
Sarah Chiwaya @curvily followers: 47.6K
Least-favorite hashtag? “#bodygoals. Every body is naturally different. Describing someone else’s body as ’goals’ is both silly and setting yourself up for disappointment. No matter how much I want long legs, that’s just not going to happen on my 5-foot-4 frame. Be your own body goals instead!” Most surprising place you’ve ever ’grammed? “An empty subway car in rush hour. It didn’t even smell weird!”
Charlotte Groeneveld @thefashionguitar followers: 456K
Olivia Caputo
@olivia_caputo followers: 108k
CASSANDRA GARCIA @cygmakeup followers: 16.8k
Any regrettable Instagram Stories? “Only when I misspell things! Nick, my fiancé, will text me, ’Um, you misspelled…’ I’m always so grateful.” What’s your Instagram caption strategy? “Oh, my gosh, I never know what to caption. I usually just state the obvious or focal point of my makeup, like ’red lip’ or ’bold eyes.’ I know my strengths.”
Ryan Dziadul @extraextrastyle followers: 10.5k
Current ’gram obsessions? “@wantanabenaomi703, the most-followed person in Japan. She’s hilarious, body positive, fab, and glamorous. My husband is Japanese, and he’d been telling me to follow her for years. I finally did. I don’t know why I waited so long; I wish I could get those years back!” What’s your Instagram caption strategy? “Strategy? Bless you. I’m mostly just trying to make myself laugh.”
@mr.rutherford followers: 236K
@nikkideroest followers: 212K
@sarah_LouWHO followers: 358k
How did you become an influencer? “It was an accident, but a really great one! I cut my hair into a pixie three years ago; the photos of my cut went viral. I was overwhelmed with questions about how to style short hair. That led to creating short-hair tutorials, answering questions, and creating beauty content. I realized I could make a living by helping people feel beautiful and spending endless hours in Sephora.”
Eric Rutherford
Nikki DeRoest
Sarah bryant
getty images (6); patrickmcmullan.com (2); wil weiss (1); all others courtesy
Most surprising place you’ve ever ’grammed? “Crying alone in my bedroom. Instagram is a highlight reel for most people, including me at times, but it’s imperative for people with large audiences to share life’s raw parts. I suffer from generalized anxiety disorder; it’s crucial I share it with the world. I believe part of the reason I have anxiety is to help break stigmas about mental illness.”
Least-favorite hashtags? “I despise #bossbabe and #influencer.” What’s your Instagram caption strategy? “Mostly just word vomit. I let it flow and don’t overthink it.” Most surprising place you’ve ever ’grammed? “The bathroom of my first apartment. I made it look really chic, but in reality, I hung the plastic part of my shower curtain on the wall to hide how awful it really was.”
Gabi Gregg @gabifresh followers: 712K
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CASEY GOODE @officially quigley followers: 228k
KATIE STURINO @katiesturino followers: 351k
Most surprising place you’ve ever ’grammed? “I took my phone into the recovery room after I got my eggs frozen, to document my feelings right after. I didn’t count on still being on drugs, so instead of anything emotional, I took a great video of me trying to drink a juice box.” Any regrettable Instagram Stories? “When I post about Botox, women DM me that it isn’t authentic to be body positive and get Botox. I keep posting about it— living your best aesthetic life doesn’t makes you any less body positive.”
How did you become an influencer? “I moved to L.A. in 2011 to pursue a career in music. I wanted to be a pop star, and I legitimately thought I was going to be the next Katy Perry. I slowly got burnt out and disheartened by the industry, and turned to a new creative outlet— fashion! I started my blog in 2015, as a hobby while working at a Hollywood bar. I went full-time in 2017!”
TESSA BARTON @tezza followers: 776K
Current ’gram obsessions? “@alessioalbi. Such inspiring photography. He captures light in the most beautiful way.” Biggest misconception about being an influencer? “That we’re all the same. There are so many different ways to be an influencer.” Most surprising place you’ve ever ’grammed? “The bathroom of a 7-Eleven. The lighting was crazy cool; we had to use it!”
SamaNtha Angelo
gabriel zamora @gabrielzamora followers: 932K
Julia Lang @julialang followers: 61.5K
krystal bick @krystal_bick followers: 138k
How did you become an influencer? “I started my blog about 10 years ago—before Instagram, Pinterest, and most social platforms—just as the recession hit. I truly burned the midnight oil working on the blog in my free time and random spare hours, while balancing a full-time corporate job in tech. I’ve always loved fashion—my longtime dream was to work with Grace Coddington at Vogue and dream up fanciful editorial shoots.”
@theeyetravels followers: 150K
Isaac HindinMiller @isaaclikes_ followers: 41.7K
Lilliana Vazquez
getty images (6); patrickmcmullan.com (2); wil weiss (1); all others courtesy
@lillianavazquez followers: 72K
GREGORIA REYES-LOU @greiVy.nyc followers: 39.7K
How did you create your handle? “It’s my nickname. I love it. It’s unique and easy to remember. I added ’NYC’ because a nonactive user is currently sitting on @greivy!” Biggest misconception about being an influencer? “That we just take photos and everything falls in our laps—there’s a lot of hustle, long hours, and nonstop networking!”
TK Wonder @tk_wonder followers: 166K
Serena Goh @theserenagoh followers: 268K
Tinamarie Clark @tinamarieclark followers: 31.4K
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raveReview
Capitalizing
Candor
BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
What were you doing before Influenster? I worked at a start-up, Shecky’s, which did Girls Night Out events. I had the choice between working at a magazine, which was flashy at the time, or this unknown start-up with a funny name. But something inside me thought I’d make a really big impact at the start-up, with 10 people in a loft in Soho, so I knew I’d get a lot of responsibility at a fairly young age. I’d never really done sales before, and at the time I was terrified of public speaking. I was spearheading brand relationships and event sponsorships, and getting products for event goody bags. I learned a lot about sampling. Brands wanted to do more hyper-targeted sampling; they were giving out products at events but not really knowing demographics or what those people bought normally, and, after getting samples, they didn’t know if people liked the products or bought them again; they wanted more ROI. My friend Aydin [Acar, Influenster’s co-founder and CEO], was working at a market-research firm and heard clients say market research took too long—six months to do a study and get feedback—and was extremely expensive. How did that lead to the concept of Influenster? The original idea was to modernize market research. We built a basic website with an extremely long survey—150 questions—that people filled out to potentially get products to test and share feedback directly with brands. We recruited people on social. We did a few tests, sent out products, and it was really successful. We got a 90 percent response rate on the survey; from there, we thought we had a viable product, so we started the company. How did Influenster evolve into what it is today? When we launched in 2010, there was no influencer marketing; I think we were definitely pioneers in the space. We noticed people posting organically on different platforms, so we’d ask people to share experiences with samples on social media. I remember
SAVVY PAIRING Scherle (right) with Influenster co-founder and CEO Aydin Acar; Influenster’s app (right); product sample boxes (bottom right)
trying to sell to brands back in the day and brands were just scared— “We’re going to send out products to people and they’re going to say whatever they think about it? That’s crazy.” They were used to controlling the message. We found people wanted to talk to one another about things they buy. We invested in creating a review platform for millions of products. Today, we have 38 million reviews, basically second only to Amazon, and we’re growing by a million new reviews monthly; 98 percent of our reviews are organic, so the business model has evolved from when it started. We didn’t even know it’d become a review hub. Influenster has turned into a utility and tool people use in their everyday lives—like TripAdvisor and Yelp, for products. We definitely started with the mind-set that real people have opinions, and those opinions matter. We’re not paying people for those opinions. People can say whatever they think. Whether they like or don’t like a product, we really don’t care; we just want them to talk about it. There was no influencer marketing when we started, and a few years in, it became a hot topic. Today, that industry has more of a bottom-up versus top-down approach, with different names thrown around, like micro- or nanoinfluencers—that’s where we’ve always been. What does the future of influencer marketing hold? I think the days of influencers posting about one brand today and a competitor tomorrow will be over soon. It’s all about authenticity. Brands also expect more for their money. In the early days, it was kind of just throwing money at people and thinking, “Let’s get a ton of followers.” Now it’s like, “I don’t care if they have a ton of followers. Are they the right fit? What’s their engagement like? Is their audience listening to, and excited by, them?” Influencer marketing is definitely not going away. It’s projected that between $6.5 billion and $8 billion will be spent on influencer marketing by the end of 2019—and it’s predicted to be $15 billion by 2022. There’s still a place for influencers, almost as new celebrities. But I think more demands will be made [of influencers] in expectations [from brands].
How does Influenster share data with brands? We often work with brands on launches, so we try to understand a product’s story, the type of people who would be most interested in that product, and help inspire people to talk about it. Sometimes, it’s about mobilizing people to come to a pop-up. We’re constantly innovating. We’re monetizing all review content on Influenster. Brands can display people’s organic reviews on their websites, and syndicate them to retailers. That’s something new and really unique we offer brands. Also, shopper marketing programs, like pop-ups, are super hot. Brands want to make sure you have the right people attending pop-ups, so we help in that regard. We do a lot of market research, too. Not only surveys with our audience, but insights on organic reviews people write, through events like trend forecasting breakfasts and webinars. Congrats on your acquisition by Bazaarvoice, a product review and content platform! We’re excited. I don’t know if I’ve fully processed it! We’ve admired Bazaarvoice for years and partnered previously. It felt like a natural fit. They’ve built a network of 6,000 brands and retailers. That, combined with our community of 6 million users, is valuable. We feel like we’ll get more support building a business.
all images courtesy
Influence takes many forms beyond lip gloss flat lays, sunsets, and selfies—such as honest reviews. That’s the currency of choice for Elizabeth Scherle, co-founder and president of Influenster, a product discovery and reviews platform. The influencer marketing pioneer fills us in.
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hotWheels
Riding In Style
This season, BMW has joined forces with NYFW on a range of events, original content, and, of course, tricked-out rides chauffeuring VIPs among shows, parties, and other fashionable happenings. Ahead, Uwe Dreher, BMW’s VP of marketing, talks us through all the excitement, from a panel hosted by Halima Aden to a short film about Proenza Schouler. What inspired BMW to sign on as the official automotive partner of NYFW? BMW has a long history of innovation, as well as a wellearned reputation for breaking new ground and being “first,” making this partnership with its “reinvention” theme an organic fit. BMW is proud to celebrate those who are breaking new ground and reinventing themselves and their careers in the fashion world as a company that has always strived to do the same, as
well as to continue its decades-long support of cultural initiatives around the world. What’s the story behind your content series? NYFW is a time to reinvent yourself, embrace the next chapter, and evolve one’s identity. BMW is working with IMG to create a series of cinematic short videos focusing on three fashion industry notables, RaisaVanessa, Indya Moore, and the Proenza Schouler team, who are all reinventing their careers and setting out to challenge themselves with a “first” this season. Throughout this content series, the notables will be transported through the streets of New York, driving forward to their next “first” at NYFW. What drew you to those talents? All three are experiencing a “first” this season, but in a variety of different ways. By utilizing both newcomers and established names, this content series will exemplify how members of the fashion industry truly take NYFW as a way to reintroduce themselves to the world, whether it be by showing for the first time, being the first of their kind, or taking back and reinventing what is theirs. We hear you’ll be working with The Daily’s Fashion Media Award winner for Breakthrough Model, Halima Aden. Yes, she will be hosting “The New Face of Fashion: Where Roads Didn’t Exist, She Paved the Way” panel discussion featuring an intimate conversation on “firsts” for this New York Fashion Week season, including her own experience of challenging the status quo and how she found unprecedented success in the fashion industry by staying true to her own values. This is evident in her recent success as the first woman
to grace the pages of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue wearing a burkini. Sounds fascinating. Tell us about the concierge service at Spring Studios. BMW will be revamping the concierge tent at Spring Studios, creating a lasting on-site footprint for all of NYFW. Most notable will be the fleet of BMW vehicles, including the first-ever BMW X7 Sports Activity Vehicle and the recently updated BMW 7 Series sedan, which will provide courtesy VIP transportation to top designers, influencers, models, and industry VIPs attending official New York Fashion Week events throughout the city, including The Shows and official NYFW events. Any interesting aspects of the new models? The BMW X7 Sports Activity Vehicle—the first BMW with three full rows of seats as standard—the BMW 7 Series sedan, and also the BMW 8 Series coupe and convertible represent the highest levels of BMW design and luxury, bringing together all the latest technology, connectivity, and driver-assistance systems with the dynamic performance that drivers expect from a BMW. The plush leather interiors are incredibly comfortable and can include heated and ventilated massage seats. All three vehicles also feature BMW’s new voiceactivated Intelligent Personal Assistant, which can control nearly every function of the vehicle with the simple command, “Hey BMW”—perfect for busy New Yorkers going about their packed schedules. Whether in city traffic or on the open road, driver-assistance packages, including Lane Keeping Assist, Active Cruise Control, and Blind Spot Detection, can help make the drive even more enjoyable.
getty images (2); patrickmcmullan.com (1); all others courtesy
MOD SQUAD BMW has assembled a set of chic fashion insiders to make their mark on NYFW, including (from left) Raisa and Vanessa Sason, Indya Moore, Halima Aden, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.
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JULIE’s Brilliant Jewels Since 2006, jewelry designer Julie Vos has been a luminary in the world of costume jewelry. Using semiprecious stones, pearl, imported glass, and 24k gold plate over nickel-free brass, she crafts her richly detailed collections by hand to the standards of the finer stuff. Vos cites New York City, the fine arts, and travel as her inspirations. Here’s the scoop on her Fall ’19 collection!
What is the inspiration for your Fall ’19 collection? The current Fall collections were inspired by tales of romance—think Knights of the Round Table and Sir Lancelot; Paris, the city of light and love; Verona, the backdrop for the tale of Romeo and Juliet. What is your favorite color to use? Many, many shades of blue! What is your most treasured article of clothing? A square light wool scarf I purchased at the Pucci boutique in Florence. When did you know being a designer was the right path for you? When I started to see people on the street or in a restaurant or on TV wearing Julie Vos jewelry. Describe your line in three words. Classic, collectible, and versatile. Do current fashion trends influence your designs? Ours is a classic line, so the pieces will always work with the latest trend. Who are your style icons? I always thought Nora Ephron put herself together really well when she was stepping out for the evening. I love Joni Mitchell’s style because it’s so personal. And Blair Eadie—her style is just so fun and flamboyant. If you were a crayon, what color would you be? A warm color—melon or deep coral. Do you have a favorite time period of fashion or accessories design? Most definitely the Renaissance. I just love the
Portrait Gallery in London and the Uffizi Gallery in Florence for the jewels and jewelry in the paintings. What are your must-haves for every woman’s closet this season? Knockout accessories! What historical figure would you like to have dinner with? The genius, Virginia Woolf. What is your favorite hobby? Decorating! Where do you draw inspiration from when designing a new collection? Design details in the art, architecture, and furnishings of the museums and palaces that I visit while on trips abroad. How has fashion brought change into your life? It has connected me with the incredible people I work with here at the company, our great retailers, and, of course, our customers, who we do it all for. Are there any pieces from your current collection that you are obsessed with? Yes! The Paris Demi Hinge cuff, the Verona Statement earring, and everything in the Coin Collection. What is your favorite thing to cook? I prefer to go out! If you weren’t a designer, where would you see yourself ? Attempting to write short stories. What is your favorite place to travel? Anywhere new, beautiful, and interesting!
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Some pieces from Vos’s latest collections.
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THE 411 ON
CHINA
COOL
Alibaba Group’s Tmall is the world’s biggest commerce platform—and now, it has brought its sensibility to New York with a showcase at Spring Studios. The Tmall China Cool initiative invited five designers to reveal their latest collections, and provided a unique insight into the fashion scene in one of the world’s most relevant markets.
FRESH IDEAS A vibrant, knit-filled look from i-am-chen collection; (below) Songta’s elevated, sleek twist on activewear.
REPORT!
With Jessica Liu, General Manager of Tmall Fashion and Luxury Since its inception in 2008, Tmall has become a leading player in the world of Chinese e-commerce. What kinds of products does the site carry, and what is its general mission? Tmall is the leading online business-to-consumer marketplace in China where more than 670 million Chinese consumers shop. Think of Tmall as an operator of a digital mall with virtual storefronts. Chinese consumers come to these storefronts with Alibaba organizing marketing, payments, and logistics services, which allows the brands to focus on the shopping experience. Alibaba enables the brands to own the
relationship with their customers. Most importantly, we are not a retailer. We are a partner with, not a competitor to, businesses selling on our platforms. Alibaba’s success is aligned with the success of the brands and retailers on our platforms. Brands think of Tmall not just as a way to sell to Chinese consumers, but as a brand-building platform. In China, competition for consumers is fierce, and e-commerce penetration is the highest of anywhere in the world. Tmall is more than a virtual storefront, it’s a rich shopping experience, and we are constantly innovating new ways to help our brands succeed and connect with consumers. Can you give us a sense of how large the site is? And the number of products, brands, and sales volume? We have more than 190,000 brands on Tmall, including more than 75 percent of the world’s most valuable consumer brands, including iconic American companies, such as Nike, Starbucks, Michael Kors, and Tory Burch, to name just a few. Tmall also has a
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RETAILER
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“we are not a retailer. we are a partner with, not a competitor to, businesses selling on our platforms.”
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—jessica Liu
dedicated platform for luxury and premium goods called the Luxury Pavilion, which offers more than 130 brands ranging from apparel and beauty to watches and luxury cars, including Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Valentino, Burberry, Tod’s, Versace, Stella McCartney, Moschino, Gentle Monster, Maserati, LVMH-owned Rimowa, Guerlain, and Givenchy. How is fashion integrated into Tmall? Tmall was actually built for fashion, which is long-term and demanding in terms of the amount and types of content needed for consumers to feel comfortable making a purchase. Fashion is not just about the function—brand is everything. Tmall was built for brands to be able to convey their brand stories and engage with consumers how they see fit. And in China, shopping has to be entertaining. Consumers shop on Tmall not to save time, but to spend time! It’s the difference between buying and shopping. They are following their favorite brands for editorial inspiration, watching key opinion leaders’ (KOL) livestream to buy what they are recommending, they are watching lots of short-form video before they make a purchase, they are checking out a brand’s fashion show to get a sense of the upcoming collection, and they are writing and reading recommendations and reviews. It’s not transactional, it’s experiential. Why is it important for Tmall to be seen at NYFW? Tmall is known for being the gateway to China’s consumers for the top luxury and fashion brands around the world, so it’s always great to be here to catch up with our customers and see their latest collections. But we also see ourselves as a cultural bridge to help showcase what is an exciting moment in time for Chinese fashion. Our “Tmall China Cool” shows feature some of the most creative talents in China today. China has traditionally looked to Western designers for their cues on what is fashion-forward, but we are seeing a rise in homegrown talent with their own distinctly Eastern aesthetics. Bringing some of the designers to the major fashion centers around the world is something we are uniquely positioned to do. This year we are bringing five truly innovative designers to showcase their collections at Spring Studios. How did you and your team go about the process of selecting brands to be featured in the showcase? “China Cool” is our forward-looking vision for global fashion. We wanted a mix of iconic, heritage brands that are reinventing themselves, as well as emerging
designers. They were all hand-selected to showcase some of the most forward-thinking, creative fashion designs in China. They are innovative, open to experimentation, and eager to engage with a global audience. Can you give us some background on the brands that you will be showing? Peacebird came back to NYFW with us again. It’s an established, beloved Chinese brand in China, and they are really pushing themselves this year with a collection called “No Boundary,” inspired by the Chinese women’s volleyball team! It will be a fun one to see. THREEGUN is another heritage brand known for intimates, sleepwear, and loungewear. This year’s collection is a strong departure from what they are famous for, and they are showing that intimates can be incredibly architectural and innovative. I am really excited about the emerging brands that showed
SHOPPING
STRATEGIES!
With Bo Liu, General Manager of Tmall and Taobao Marketing China has the highest e-commerce penetration in the world. Why are Chinese consumers comfortable buying anything and everything online? What’s happening to the physical store in China? There are a few reasons why e-commerce took off so quickly in China. First, consumers were simply underserved in terms of brick-and-mortar retail compared to most markets in the West. Second, Chinese consumers leapfrogged the PC era and went straight to mobile. E-commerce was optimized for the mobile consumer; any moment of the day can be a shopping opportunity. Finally, the online shopping experience is an incredibly rich and engaging one
this year. RiZhuo has big ambitions to be one of the most influential Chinese brands in the world, and I think it’s possible. Lujian Zhang is the designer. He is incredibly poetic with a timeless aesthetic. He gets his inspiration from nature and poetry. SONGTA is especially interesting as the brand is only four months old! The collection is energetic, youthful, and inspired by middle-school uniforms in the city of Shenzhen. i-am-chen really pushes the envelope when it comes to color and expression. It’s a distinctive, joyful collection. How can American consumers best experience these brands in the U.S.? For the most part, they have to go to China or ask a friend in China to buy for them from Tmall. But we hope the buyers here at NYFW will take note and help these designers get a foothold in the U.S. They all have international ambitions.
for Chinese consumers. But that doesn’t mean the physical store is dead. Quite the contrary. Our strategy is to usher in the age of “New Retail,” the seamless integration of offline and online shopping experiences. Consumers are never offline or online— in the mobile age, they are always both! Shopping experiences should be the same. We are working with our brand partners to help them link inventory, logistics, and consumer engagement across their online and offline stores. This makes for a far richer and more convenient consumer experience. What was the impetus to launch the “China Cool” pop-up exhibition this year? NYFW is a truly global stage for design, and we felt it was a great opportunity to help both up-andcoming and established Chinese designs get global exposure. This year, we had fun with crossover collaborations between the fashion industry and consumer goods products. Today, every brand needs to incorporate design thinking. In China, there has been such an explosion of choice and creativity that consumers have come to expect well-designed products in every category—even food and beverage brands or simple consumer products. We’ve witnessed incredible results from pairing traditional brands with cutting-edge fashion brands. Our pop-up last year generated significant buzz on social media in China for the participating brands. For example, Lao Gan Ma, the famous Chinese hotsauce brand, created a hashtag that became one of the day’s top-10 trending keywords on Weibo, and its Tmall flagship store garnered 820,000 visits during its NYFW promotion. Which brands are participating and how can people here for Fashion Week experience it? The China Cool pop-up exhibition ran from September 4 to 6 at 315 Spring Street in Soho. It was bigger and richer than last year’s pop-up. Featured brand collaborations included Chinese confectionery company Hsu Fu Chi, clothing brand Tyakasha, Chinese snack brand Qinqin, fashion brand Mukzin, Dove Chocolate, Hefang Jewelry, home furniture brand Ziinlife, and Chow Tai Seng jewelry. Even better, it was open to the public.
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Who’s showing Meet the designers who unveiled their collections at the Tmall showcase.
peacebird men Designer Ying Xu
culture and sports. There has been a dramatic rise in sports and sports fashion in China, and Chinese consumers are looking for functional and fashionforward apparel in all their athletic pursuits. The theme of our show is “No Boundary,” which pays tribute to the spirit of the Chinese women’s volleyball team. “No Boundary” means not being afraid to break rules or to take a chance to do what may seem impossible. This represents both our brand’s attitude toward innovation and the fearless and self-reliant spirit of the Chinese women’s volleyball team. The runway will combine elements such as gold medals and a volleyball court to bring the concept to life. And there are some surprises in store as well. Where can we buy your clothes? You can buy our items at Peacebird Men’s Tmall official store. And if you have friends and relatives in China, there are more than 4,500 physical stores across China. Just ask them to buy something for you. Of course, you can also contact me personally, I will be happy to help you! What are you most looking forward to doing in New York during Fashion Week? I will be working a lot, but I hope to carve out a bit of time to visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art. What are some of your passions, outside of fashion? I am a student of youth and pop culture. It’s important to stay up to date with what the younger generations are up to for fun. I try to do what they do!
GOOD SPORT Peacebird Men’s Spring/Summer ’20 looks were inspired by the boundary-breaking Chinese women’s volleyball team.
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How did you get into the fashion world? I was born in the early 1980s, which was the perfect time because that is when China was able to access the world of fashion. From an early age, I dreamt of being a fashion designer. That dream came true when I began my fashion career at Peacebird Men. In three words, how would you the aesthetic of Peacebird Men? Youthful, fashionable, and trendy. Peacebird Men represents boundless creativity and inclusiveness of the Chinese culture. Peacebird Men aims to reshape fashion trends in China. We have done quite a few crossover collaborations with other brands to inject more novelty into our design and to stay on-trend with youth culture in China. What is your global ambition? We are a well-known brand in China, but we have yet to attract international attention. Our vision to gain international recognition for our design is more important than international ambition. Participating in NYFW is an important way for us to showcase our work on a global stage. We are delighted to be here for the third time. We are always looking for more ways to collaborate and partner with global and domestic partners, and we hope to find more opportunities to do so this year at NYFW. What’s the concept behind your Spring/Summer ’20 collection? This collection is a celebration of Chinese youth
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threegun Designer Chuang Qu
When did you first get interested in fashion? I can’t remember a time when I wasn’t interested in fashion! For more than 30 years, it has consumed me. How did you get your start in the fashion industry? I studied fashion design in college, and my first job was a design assistant at a Japanese firm. What inspired you to launch your line? I founded my own brand at the age of 40. I wanted to express my own interpretation of fashion. I am leveraging my many years of experience in the industry to create my own line. How do you describe your aesthetic? I like minimalist and well-made texture in design. What’s the concept behind your Spring ’20 collection? THREEGUN is a heritage Chinese brand established
in the 1930s. It holds a special place in Chinese consumers’ hearts and is known for high-quality intimates, lounge, and sleepwear. One way we keep it fresh is through new collaborations with cutting-edge designers. This collection was inspired by architecture and specifically by modern concrete buildings. Where can we buy your clothes? At our Tmall official store. What are you most looking forward to doing in New York during Fashion Week? I am only focused on the show. What are some of your passions, outside of fashion? I am passionate about all the beautiful things in life. I hope I will have more time to reflect on these and recuperate someday.
HAPPY RETURNS Sketches of Zhang’s Spring/Summer ’20 looks, inspired by his memories of going home for Chinese New Year.
rizhuo
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Designer Lujian Zhang When did you first get interested in fashion? I have never had a passion for “fashion” per se. I never want to be part of a trend; I aim to make timeless pieces. What is your professional background? I started in the industry as an apprentice tailor in a Chinese garment factory for three years from 2002 to 2005 before obtaining my formal fashion design training in school. I have spent nearly 17 years working in this industry in various roles. What inspired you to launch your line? I want to make a brand that represents our customers’ personal values, fits their daily style, and is also reasonably priced.
How do you describe your aesthetic? My aesthetic is inspired by my childhood experience in rural China, Eastern aesthetics I studied while working in the industry, and personal introspection and feelings. I grew up on an orchard in rural China. I have vivid childhood memories of the sky, forests, and morning fog. While I was a professional tailor and then a designer, I became influenced by Japanese aesthetics. I always try to draw on my feelings and emotions when I design. What’s the concept behind your Spring/Summer ’20 collection? The inspiration for the collection came from the Tang Dynasty poet Wang Wan’s “Beigu Mountain” poem. In China, everyone returns home during Chinese New Year. This kind of melancholy sentiment is brilliantly conveyed in the poem. I hope that through this collection, and inspired by this poem, people who are traveling home will feel more beautiful and full of hope.
Where can we buy your clothes? Everyone in China can easily buy our clothes on Alibaba’s Tmall platform. What are you most looking forward to doing in New York during Fashion Week? This is the first time in New York to showcase my collection. I look forward to meeting the expectations of our nearly 2 million fans in China, and I hope the audience in NYC likes what they see. What are some of your passions, outside of fashion? I love literature and photography. Literature makes me understand life, photography gives me insights into life, and design makes me appreciate life.
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UNIFORMLY COOL SongTa’s Spring/ Summer ’20 looks were inspired by Gen Z and school uniforms.
songta Designer Ta Song
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What is your professional background? My first job was as an artist. For most of my career, I have been a conceptual artist and curator. I studied watercolor at school. I have always loved fashion but am new to the fashion industry. My brand is only four months old. What inspired you to launch your line? I officially retired from the art industry. I was free and wanted continue to inspire, so I established a fashion house. How do you describe your aesthetic? “Diao” in Chinese slang language means “terrific” and “awesome.” “Diao” is my aesthetic, and also being passionate and legitimate. What’s the concept behind your Spring/Summer ’20 collection? My inspiration is the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen and middle-school students there who attempted to style their uniforms to be more fashionable. Shenzhen is recognized as a hub of the future in Asia and represents iconic urban culture. When we talk about “Asian clothes,” we need “neo school” over old school. That’s why my debut collection is inspired by Shenzhen school uniforms and Generation Z. Where can we buy your clothes? You can visit SONGTA’s Tmall online store. For offline stores, we currently have a pop-up store in the K11 mall in Guangzhou, but our Shenzhen flagship store is opening in October. What are you most looking forward to doing in New York during Fashion Week? I’m looking forward to showing my collection and, of course, grabbing a burger! What are some of your passions, outside of fashion? I love to sing.
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THE RIGHT STRIPES i-am-chen plays with texture, unexpected color combos, and stripes on stripes for Spring/Summer ’20.
i-am-chen
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Designer Chen Zhi
When did you first get interested in fashion? I have always been interested in fashion, even before officially entering the industry. What is your professional background? I dropped out of college as an engineering student in China to pursue my dream in fashion. I eventually won a scholarship to study at Parsons and subsequently at London College of Fashion. Founding i-am-chen was my first job after graduation. What inspired you to launch your line? I felt like I had something to say and a point of view to express, but I could not have done it without my business partner’s support.
How do you describe your aesthetic? It’s a combination of complication and simplicity. What’s the concept behind your Spring/Summer ’20 collection? The inspiration of this season’s collection comes from the small encounters and surprises in life captured vividly by photographer Kourtney Roy. Her work was shot in various old warehouses, abandoned parking lots, and motels in California. In all these seemingly ordinary scenes, she looks for the unexpected and humor to break up the monotony of everyday life. The 1960s style of clothing in the images works to create a seamless utopian vision and moves us beyond the radical contradictions of that decade. Instead, they are fun and relaxing, which is exactly the concept and style our brand wants to express. In a life of convention,
a palette of intrusive colors can be necessary to break up the boredom. Everyday life is so much more attractive and interesting when you look at it from a different perspective. Where can we buy your clothes? We distribute with more than 50 partner platforms and retailers, including Tmall and mei.com. You can find our items in department stores, such as Lane Crawford. Outside China, you can find our items in Japan, the U.S., the U.K., and Italy. What are you most looking forward to doing in New York during Fashion Week? I look forward to visiting MoMA and, of course, showcasing my collection. What are some of your passions, outside of fashion? I love skiing.
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fashionForward
COME
FROM AWAY
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A joint initiative by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea (MCST) and the Korea Creative Content Agency (KOCCA), The Selects is bringing the best rising fashion talent from the East Asian country to New York. This year, The Selects is showcasing the work of 12 designers across 10 brands at its space at 62 Greene Street in Soho. With special events, pop-up stores, artist collaborations, exhibitions, and more, fashion fans can immerse themselves in the most exciting new names coming out of Korea. Additionally, all the brands will be presenting their latest collections at NYFW on Sunday. Get to know these rising names now, and be sure to check fashionweekdaily.com for exclusive Q&As with the designers. BY Aria Darcella
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KYE
KATHLEEN KYE @kye_official
“I’ve loved fashion and clothes for as long as I can remember,” says Kathleen Kye of her early passions. “There was nothing I was interested in more than fashion, so it was inevitable for me to pursue it as a career.” Her pursuit has been fruitful—Kye’s eponymous label has garnered her an established cult following and a growing international business, thanks to her vibrant, optimistic aesthetic.
BEYOND CLOSET TAE YONG KO @beyondcloset
BMUET(TE)
BYUNGMUN SEO & JINA UM @bmuette
A preppy, Americana aesthetic is a key inspiration for Tae Yong Ko’s Beyond Closet. The designer—who first decided to pursue a career in design after attending a Fashion Week—believes that what people have in their closet is a reflection of their personality and lifestyle. Naturally, this ethos informs his designs.
Byungmun Seo and Jina Um met while working for another brand in Korea. Realizing that they shared a similar aesthetic and worked well as a team, they decided to strike out on their own. In 2015, BMUET(TE) was launched. Their mission? To challenge preconceived notions of fashion through their own creative direction, which they describe as “weird but beautiful.”
NOHANT NOAH NAM
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@official_nohant Rather than creating showstopping but less practical red-carpet pieces, Noah Nam is bringing modernity and elegance to everyday wares. His unisex line is giving his customers a new way to look at essentials. “The ease and comfort of my designs make them natural for anyone,” the designer says. “They’re the kinds of clothes that can be worn by everyone, no matter what gender or age.”
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fashionForward
HEOHWAN SIMULATION HWAN HEO
@heohwansimulation Hwan Heo initially studied history in university. Unsurprisingly, his vast source of historical references have had a direct impact on his creativity. For his London-founded label, Heohwan Simulation, Heo blends aesthetics and craftsmanship from the past with his visions for the future of fashion. This season, the designer is looking at luxury and casualwear from the ’80s and ’90s through the lens of sustainability.
LEYII
SEUNGHEE LEE @leyii_official
Seunghee Lee might have been destined to be a designer. After all, her parents worked in the fashion industry. “I was able to play with sewing machines and clothes from early childhood,” she says. Lee went on to study at Central Saint Martins, and has been showing at Seoul Fashion Week since 2010. Fashion, it seems, is where she’s at her best. “Working as a designer gives me joy because I find it the most effective way to style a woman beautifully, even though the process is tough.”
LIE
CHUNG CHUNG LEE @liecollection_
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Chung Chung Lee of LIE is no stranger to the New York fashion scene. The Central Saint Martins grad’s pieces are available in NYC at the LIE SANGBONG concept store, which also sells his father’s fashion brand. “We wanted to create a space that best embodies the brand, a union between fashion innovation and artistic expression,” he says. “The retail store acts as platform to showcase what LIE is about. There is also an art gallery with curated exhibitions that promotes contemporary fine artists.”
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SWBD
DONG HO HA @sbbydongho
Dong Ho Ha didn’t always aspire to be a fashion designer. “When I was young I wanted to be a car engineer,” he says. But he ended up majoring in fashion. Working as an assistant designer during Seoul Fashion Week cinched the deal. “That experience made me realize that I wanted to start my own brand.” Now with his own label, SWBD (short for Sewing Boundaries), Ha is using fashion to bridge the gap between genders and generations.
WNDERKAMMER HYE YOUNG SHIN
@wnderkammer_official Wnderkammer’s unusual name has an even more unusual backstory. “Before cameras existed, German aristocracy kept their special items in a secret room called a Wnderkammer,” says designer Hye Young Shin. “I want my brand to become this kind of room for modern women.” And so it has—her chic, wearable pieces often have unexpected details. And as an advocate for the environment, she does her best to use eco-friendly fabrics.
HIDDEN FOREST MARKET ji HYUN HWANG & SUNg JUN CHO
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@ hiddenforestmarket Husband and wife duo Ji Hyun Hwang and Sung Jun Cho launched their line, Hidden Forest Market, in 2012. For this duo, being partners in life and work could not be easier. “We enjoy working together as a team, and I get most inspired from my wife,” Hwang says. “Family is the most important thing to me. I’ve never believed that work and personal lives need to be separate.” Their new collection translates the sweetness of summer nights into fashion.
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FINALSWeek
Mood boards and a pink look by the aspiring designers; (right) Simon Ungless
RISING STARS Academy of Art University’s fashion school graduates: (from left) Abby Yang, Chelsea Grays, Christopher Cabalona, Hanbit Ku, Mariana Gorey, Mingyang Zhang, Yue Chen, Qing Guo, Yaryna Zhuk, Ying Jin, and Yi Pan.
Fashion designers at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco get the ultimate swan song before matriculating—the chance to debut their designs at NYFW in a graduate show that the school has done since 2004. Simon Ungless, the institution’s executive director of the school of fashion, explains all. BY ARIA DARCELLA Why is it important for your students to show at NYFW? When I went to graduate school at Central Saint Martins, the show was then and is still very much part of London Fashion Week. And that was a big deciding factor for me on what program I went to, because I really wanted to have that experience. How do you deal with the logistics of staging a show? We just pack everything up. We have a studio space on Fifth Avenue that we’ve been using since 2004. We have the studio, and the students go through the entire process of casting, looks, fittings, alteration, styling, and presentation—the situation of so much real-life experience. That’s why we do it. Is there pressure for fashion school graduate shows to launch the next Galliano or McQueen, the way CSM’s graduate show has? Most schools are feeling the pressure to have a star. Education is such a different animal from when I
graduated in 1992. There’s greater interest in fashion as a career option, and so many more schools, programs, and students. Schools are really out to get more students because education is a business like any other. Our philosophy at this school is [cultivating] graduates who can get the job support of the American or international fashion industry, and also have a skill set that will sustain them through their careers. That was instilled in us at Saint Martin—“Yeah, you’re going to have this show, but you’re going to go out there and get a job in the industry.” It was about getting a job. How do you push students’ creativity, while also prepping them for a possible commercial reality? It starts from what a particular individual wants to do and what their goals are. It’s very much a designercentric program. There’s no right and no wrong. You may not need to do a senior collection. You may not need to do Fashion Week, because you want to build a
whole different skill set to get a particular job. Some students are much more creative in their vision, and conceptually driven. They want to be emerging designers. In all my experience of doing this here and back in London, there are so few designers that are really conceptual and creative—and have the skill set to back that up. Sometimes a designer hasn’t got that mind-set and you end up with Party City on the runway. That’s not what we’re about, either. How has fashion education changed since the ’90s? I actually don’t think it has. It’s a dinosaur. Education, especially college education, is really on the verge of extinction. Most undergraduate programs have huge volumes of liberal-arts classes, which are supposedly designed to make you more rounded. I don’t believe that’s necessary to get a job. That’s not my experience coming from Europe, where it was very much focused
isabella bejarano (1); all others courtesy
The Graduates
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isabella bejarano (1); all others courtesy
on your major and what you wanted to be. Education is changing in other industries, like tech, which now teaches all kinds of interface, design, and game design. People really are able to get what they need to move forward. But in fashion, we’re still working on a model of four years in school. You finish with a collection, you have a show, then you graduate and try to get a job. I don’t necessarily know if that’s really furnishing these people with the right collateral to go out there and get a job. A number of designers either have no fashion background or were fashion school dropouts. How do you convince people the Academy is worthwhile? It’s about having that conversation with that person and finding out what they really want to do with their life. I have students come to me and say that they want to be waived out of all sewing classes, and I’m like, well, that’s great—snip it. [Celebrity designers] have had incredible careers and have built all this stuff to support what they want to do [with fashion], and they’re able to hire teams of people to do what they need. Victoria Beckham is not cutting a pattern and sewing a sample. She’s probably not physically sitting down with a pencil and sketching. But she’s savvy and wealthy enough to hire the best team that she can to do that. I’ve been having that communication with Rihanna’s creative design director for Fenty. Rihanna is incredibly savvy, fashion-forward, really understands
what she wants—but she also knows she has to have design directors with the real training and background to do the job, and that’s what I tell students. Unless you have personal wealth, a sugar daddy, or a pop record, you’re not really going to get aligned without the work. What did you love most about Saint Martins? It was all about collaboration, putting teams of designers together that work—it’s how you work in the industry. I worked [at CSM] as a group that included me, [Alexander] McQueen, and the knitwear designer working together on collections at school. We carried on doing that [post-graduation], and it built our careers for us. I’ve brought that to the Academy. You’ll find fashion students working with the web, textbooks, merchandising, and photography. San Francisco isn’t a fashion capital. How do you give students opportunities beyond the classroom, aside from NYFW? It’s not a fashion capital, but a lot of great things started here, and San Francisco is a destination for people from the fashion industry—they either come here for vacation, or to do retail. So there are always people coming through, and we try to hijack and bring them into the department to talk to the students. We have a great advisory board and honorary doctorates that come through town, and they’re generous with their time with the students. People like Sarah Mower, Suzy Menkes, Alexander Fury, [Kate and Laura Mulleavy of] Rodarte, and Sarah Burton.
Some designs the graduates will show at NYFW.
How do you challenge students to think critically— not only about their work but also about the industry at large? One of the questions I ask students is, “Why are you doing something? What’s the need for it?” A basic question I think is overlooked in most fashion education is, Who’s going to wear that? Who is your customer? Without somebody wanting [a design], I don’t think it’s really fashion. The most fundamental thing is, Would you wear it? If the student says no, then I’m like, “Why are you designing it?” If you’re not going to wear that, why design it? Because if you can’t be your own customer, then maybe you shouldn’t be designing.
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last look Kate Moss and Edward Enninful were feeling the love at the Fashion Media Awards.
hannah turner-harts; shutterstock (1)
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