Friday, September 6, 2013
w o r t n fro
Supper Club Saucy Sui!
Shucking Todd! Swigging Kyle!
Bon Appétit’s Feast or Fashion Special! Thom Browne’s Deep Dish
MORE LAPTOP OR JUST MORE LAP? MORE WORKSPACE WITH ECONOMY COMFORT.™
8/29/13 3:57 PM
Atelier Watch! A MOMENT WITH... Marissa Webb When will you know you’ve made it? When I can actually take a week off and be comfortable with it. How have your designs changed since J.Crew? It’s been about realizing I can rock it out a little bit or shorten my miniskirt. Your preferred indulgence? Puppies! I’m obsessed with puppies. It used to be Coke, but now I’m trying to drink coconut water instead. I also love Snickers.
Sebastian Kim Harley Viera-Newton
YOUR DAILY DOSE Vogue’s Kathryn Neale
A MOMENT WITH... Hanako Maeda of ADEAM Favorite spot for a swanky cocktail? Attaboy on Eldridge Street. Pick one: Twitter or Insta? Instagram. Follow us at @adeamonline! Your parents’ line, FOXEY, is huge in Japan. Did it influence you? Definitely. I’ve been everywhere with them, from their studio in Tokyo to leather factories in Italy. One song that encapsulates your Hanako Maeda collection: Summertime Sadness by Lana del Rey
A MOMENT WITH... Ernest Alexander How did you come to launch your own line? I worked in fashion advertising at Laird + Partners for a long time for some of the major brands, like Donna Karan and DKNY. Doing the branding for all those other labels inspired me to launch my own. What percentage of your closet is made up of your designs? A solid 55 percent. What’s the biggest misconception people have about menswear? I get a lot of, “Oh, my god, you’re straight?” Tell us about your Gap collab. We did a waxed-canvas field jacket, a chambray work shirt, some belts, and a lot of bags. Where can we spot you at cocktail hour? The Library Bar at the Nomad or the Ace Hotel. I tend to stick to my own neighborhood. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Fatigued already, chéries? For shame! Take some hits of this and text us in the morning. Tonight, it’s all about Omar’s, where H&M and Vogue are toasting “Between the Shows,” an ode to off-duty models shot by Sebastian Kim. Paul Sevigny and Harley Viera-Newton are DJing, hopefully not at the same time. ☛ Fashion’s newest social network-cum-shopping-hybridthing-we’ve-never-heard-of, Lyst.com, has asked Nina Garcia and Roopal Patel to upload their favorite looks after every show. Remember when all you Roopal Patel had to do and Nina Garcia was doodle sternly? ☛
THE BRITISH ARE COMING! Just kidding. They’re already here! Get on their good side while there’s still time at The Ace Hotel and i-D magazine’s “Londoners in New York” exhibit, which opens today and hangs through Fashion Week. Expect Lily, Jacquetta, and fish and chips.
EXCLUSIVE! TOM’S NEW SPREAD Tom Ford and Carine Roitfeld—the creative duo that made Gucci sizzle—jumped back in bed together for the latest issue of CR Fashion Book. Here’s a sneak peek at Ford’s extra fleshy shoot, which hits stands September 12.
G I O R G I O N I R O ( 3 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 4 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 4 ) ; GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
JOIN THE PRO TEST #Cot
NOTHING 14th & HUDSON, NYC—SEPTEMBER 6–8, 2013 AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. © 2013 Cotton Incorporated.
A MOMENT WITH...
u B zz Fix
Teen Vogue stylisto Andrew Bevan, who has chewy new Web series ... So, why Breakfast with Bevan? I love an alliteration! It’s also a treat to have a proper breakfast out. I’ve Andrew Bevan and Miranda Cosgrove always been a conversationalist, and the relationships I’ve created over the years with people like Coco Rocha and Jessica Stam are the best part of my job. How soon after waking up do you usually eat? I need an hour and a good amount of coffee before thinking about food. What’s proper breakfast attire? Coco Rocha Pretty much anything can be made acceptable if you blazer it or rock it up with a leather jacket. What’s your favorite morning meal? Bagel and lox, or eggs benedict. If you had to choose: pancakes or French toast? Buckwheat pancakes. What’s your favorite breakfast spot? There is something so classic and consistent about an early weekday breakfast at Balthazar. What’s the oddest thing you’ve ever eaten before 10 a.m.? I had reindeer for breakfast once during Stockholm Fashion Week. It was kind of an aggressive breakfast food. Sorry, Rudolph!
MORSELS TO DISCUSS
At long last, Spring Studio is flinging open its TriBeCa doors this season! Where to eat in the ’hood? American Cut, from the masterminds behind No. 8 and Scarpetta with hunky chef Marc Forgione on the ones and twos. Mangia! ☛ Marcus Samuelsson’s GQ-ish blog, Food Republic, was recently gobbled up by Anthony Bourdain’s production company, Zero Point Zero. ☛ Umami Burger fever rages on! The L.A. import’s decadent patties at its West Village locale might conflict with your zero-calorie diet this week, but so what? Snag one between MILK shows. Extra napkins, s’il vous plait! ☛
A D A. Katy Perry B. Cara Delavingne C. Miley Cyrus D. Rihanna E. Madonna F. Kate Moss
Guess whose tongue!
B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 3 ) ; F I R S T V I E W ( 2 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Front Row Beauty: MUST-HAVE MANIS! You Saw It At… Nicole Miller, Monique Lhuillier, Jenny Packham and Nicholas K
Wear it right NOW… Everyone knows that a flawless manicure is a must for all front-row fixtures, and with a bevy of new shades (not to mention 3D accents) that hit the Fall 2013 runways, you have so much to choose from. Try Maybelline New York’s Holographic Color Show line for metallic shades with color-morphic pearls that give nails a cyber-celluloid effect or the Polka Dots Line that instantly creates chic spots sans hours of design time ($3.99 each).
nicolem ille r. com
TOTALLY LOUB-ED UP! WITH FOOD NETWORK STAR ANNE BURRELL How many pairs of Louboutins do you own, Anne? Thirty, two of which are signed. They make me feel so special! How do you store them? I have a special shelf for my babies. When I get a new pair, I call it “making an adoption.” That’s a lotta dough! Does Christian hook you up? The West Village store manager, Michael, is really nice to me.
VENI, VIDI VERDI! FIFTEEN YEARS OF BOBBY V.
o Fo d Bibhu Mohapatra
HEARD How do YOU Arden Wohl
like to misbehave? “It usually starts with an abundance of friends and food. Why keep the brakes on?” —Bibhu Mohapatra ☛ “I’m totally spontaneous. You never know!”— Ann Dexter-Jones ☛ “With a movie marathon in bed.”—Arden Wohl ☛ “I order pork-based everything at The Spotted Pig. I’ve done many a sit-up as penance.”—David Zinczenko ☛ “A lavish dinner followed by staying out way too late!” —Hannah Bronfman ☛ “To paraphrase Orson Welles: I don’t say we all ought to misbehave, but we ought to look like we could.” —Charlotte Ronson
Happy fashion birthday, Robert! What are you proudest of so far? The thing that didn’t Charlotte work: my reality show. Ronson My show was inked, signed, and ready to go in 2006, before any gay man had a selftitled show. Where do you think you get your sense of humor? My mother. She’s a big personality. On Golden Girls, she’d be Bea Arthur. She’s funny and super bossy. What’s the secret Verdi formula? I know who to ask, what to ask, and how to ask it. I’m fearless about asking. I can be at the table and talk the talk. In pitch meetings, you’re told to pitch one or two solid ideas. I’ll come in with 40! What’s an especially wacky pitch that didn’t fly? I developed my own ice cream flavor, called Sweet, Sticky Stuff. I tried to get Ben & Jerry’s to do it. Who are your favorite seatmates? I’ve been next to really great people, like Beyoncé. Kate Betts is a great seatmate, too. She’s dry, brilliant, and she makes the most fantastic, ironic observations. I’ve sat next to Fran Lebowitz twice. She’s hysterical. Ever been caught snarking at a show? Oh, I always talk sh*t. Any favorites on the fashion calendar? The Blondes! They’re incredibly creative, and everybody’s always there—freaks, weirdos, rock stars, royals, socialites, losers, crackheads—everybody. On the total other end of the spectrum, I love going to a spectacle like Michael Kors. I always leave his show covered in cashmere fuzz. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
JENNA LYONS’ PURPLE PAST Do you stress eat, Jenna? I actually have a frightening obsession with coffee ice cream at all times. Ciao Bella’s Triple Espresso is my favorite, followed by Steve’s. I really need to check myself. Which designer could coax you onto the runway? There’s no amount of money or designer I’d do that for. It’d be like, “Oh, there’s Daria Werbowy! And then ... me.” Not happening. Carine’s documentary is debuting! Who’d direct the flick about your life? Wes Anderson, I hope. Were you chic as a kid? I thought so. Purple was the only color in my wardrobe—purple jeans, purple tees, purple shoes, purple everything.
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Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editors Sarah Horne Grose, Sara Lieberman Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editors Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros Imaging Specialist George Maier Contributing Copy Editors Joseph Mills, Matt Weingarten Interns Samantha Cohen, Lauren Ludlow, Kassidy Silva, Julie Zigos President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Directors Julie Humeas, Hannah Sinclair Trade Publications Director Charles Garone Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Sales & Marketing Coordinator Sabrina Fares Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor Distribution Supervisor Brooke Keys
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ON THE COVER: Hanne Gaby Odiele, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Elizabeth Gilpin photographed by David X Prutting/BFANYC.com
B FA N YC . C O M
The new maximalism.
The new S-Class and Sui He by Carine Roitfeld and Stephen Gan. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion
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Captured by Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Bienert.
Figures do not relate to the specific emissions or fuel consumption of any individual vehicle, do not form part of any offer and are intended solely to aid comparison between different types of vehicle. The vehicle shown features optional equipment. ÂŠ2013 Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.
most of the models don’t look at the board. Are you still in touch with Naomi? We had lunch this summer and we text a lot. Do you miss the early days? Yeah. Ignorance is bliss and you don’t really know what you’re getting yourself into. It wasn’t so bottom line back then. It’s very different now! There was more forgiveness. I feel bad for the designers starting out now. It’s grueling. You need big investment bankers now. I started my business in my apartment.
You present on Wednesday. Do you see other shows during Fashion Week? Sometimes. If somebody comes into my office and says I should look at so and so, I’ll look at it. I always like to see what Marc Jacobs is doing, because that’s always so exciting and I can’t wait to go shopping! I’m more excited about the European designers, though. What about the new generation? It’s going to be harder and harder for them to do well unless they get substantial financial backing and develop a brand identity. In this day and age, so much of it is bottom line and numbers. It’s a little
You launched your cosmetics line in 1999. Was that scary at the time? It was a natural progression for me. They wanted my cosmetics to look like accessories, not just a beauty product. I loved that, because I’m obsessive about packaging. Tell us about your new perfume. It’s called La Vie de Bohème and it’s our 14th perfume. For years I’ve always worn Secret Wish, which we launched nine years ago, but this could be the new one for me. You’ve been a big advocate of fashion staying in the garment district… All the uniqueness in New York City that made it special is disappearing. It’s turning into a giant mall. The New York that I love had quirky places like this, neighborhoods where you could go for flowers or Spanish food. It’s all getting homogenized.
scary. That’s happened to everything from baseball to art. Everything that used to be a pastime is now just big business. There’s too much product now. I can’t imagine how a new company can do that. How do you feel about the rumors of the fashion world moving to Hudson Yards? It remains to be seen. It depends on how much of the craftsmanship and tradition they can still maintain. Is it only going to be showrooms? Is there not going to be any actual making of clothing? Are the rents going to be so prohibitive that nobody can really manufacture here anymore? What happens to the industry? Does it turn out like [it did in] England and all the designers have to go elsewhere? Probably. Why aren’t more designers talking about this? Because most designers make clothes overseas. Lastly, are you going to get dessert? We can share something! I rarely get to go out to eat for lunch, so the frozen hot chocolate is a real treat.
Who knew Anna Sui was obsessed with Serendipity? We supped a frozen hot chocolate with the fashion icon and talked Meisel, Naomi, and living la vie bohème. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO How long have you been coming to Serendipity? Since I was at Parsons! Forever! Steven Meisel and I would come to get hot chocolate. You and Steven went to school together. Did you know there was something special about him? Oh, yeah. He was so beautiful. He came walking into my drawing class and I was like, “Who is that?” He asked me to the lunchroom to come sit with him and I was like, “Are you kidding?” What do you think of his work and influence today? He’s a genius. When you look at his body of work, it’s mind-blowing. He outdoes himself every time—the discoveries he’s made with models and the careers he’s made. He’s a force. You also have a long history with one of the founding partners of Serendipity, Mr. Bruce… I was scared of him. You can imagine how dashing he was with his black hair and moustache. As I got older, we’ve gotten to be friendly and go out to eat together. What do you normally get here? The young chicken sandwich with Irish soda bread. Your first show had Naomi Campbell in it. Do tell! She’s probably walked in more shows for me than any other model. She and Linda Evangelista helped me get all the other models and they would wear my dresses. It got to the point where I heard Karl [Lagerfeld] was complaining, “Who is this Anna?” That gave me the confidence that maybe I could do something. How about the new crop of models? When I started, it was the height of the supermodel. There was a reason they were supermodels. When they put on your clothes, it was magic. They then would say, “Why is Naomi in front of me? I don’t want to go out after her. I should go in front of her!” They’d look on the board and count how many looks the other models were wearing. They’d beg for another outfit. It was so nerve-wracking. Now FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Who knew Rebecca Taylor has been dancing since she was a teenager?! The Daily joined the New Zealand native for a swing dance lesson at Chelsea’s Swing Studios, where we found out what’s tapping her toes these days. Kid ain’t bad! BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
Your skills are impressive! Are you going to leave us and join Dancing with the Stars? Absolutely. We’ve scheduled that in for 2042. [laughs] It’s so much fun though, right? The thing with swing is the man leads, and because I run my own company, telling everyone what do all day, it’s actually a nice reverse to come and dance, and [have him] indicating what I should be doing. I find that really liberating. Is it going to be a dip or a rock back? It’s a surprise! What made you decide to take the lessons? I always wanted to do it. Did you ever see the movie Swing Kids? It’s brilliant. It’s about these Jewish kids in Germany during the Second World War, and they would go do big swing dances. In Germany, in those times, they were really frowned upon, and in the end it gets busted up by the Hitler Youth. It’s kind of got a lot of dark undertones. But it’s a fascinating movie and I just always thought the swing dancing looked like so much fun. So what’s your history on the dance floor? I danced ballet until I was about 19. I loved it! I stopped for awhile, when I was a preteenager—you know how boys and things distract—but then I went back at it when I was 16. I often reference dance studios in the architecture of our stores, or just generally. Dance studios are really happy places to be. There’s something about the vibe of a dance studio. Flashdance was my favorite movie! When I did jazz I would tape my foot like Jennifer Beals’ character. She used to tape her foot and wore black leotards. We couldn’t get them in New Zealand in the Eighties so I had to wear, like, big black knickers. I would put that record on in my room and dance. It’s always been such a great creative outlet for me. When was the last time you went out dancing? I was just talking about this with my instructor. He has these big dance nights, but I can’t get my husband to come out dancing with me! So, I’m looking for a partner. Your husband’s not into it? He is! It’s a great couples thing. My husband loves
TAYLOR MADE MOVES
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
dressing up. He always wears a hat, tie, and linen suit. It would be right up his alley. What does he do? He’s an illustrator. He’s a bit of a character. Where did you two meet? We met at a bar called Sapphire Lounge. Do you remember it? You’re probably a bit younger. Everyone seems a bit younger now. It was down in the Lower East Side, in the ’90s. He was a DJ there. Does he work from home? [Laughs] Are you just curious about my husband? He works from home. We have three kids. He and the babysitter take care of them, and he illustrates while they’re at school. Got it. So where do you go out dancing now? And where did you used to go? Should I say? We went to Twilo. It gets my heart racing thinking about it. You could smoke then. Everyone would just be madly smoking away. The theater for Sleep No More is in the building where Twilo was. When I went to the show I was having this weird, almost spatially shifting moment. I thought if I walked outside now it could be 1996!
I thought if I could wish it hard enough, I’d open that door and I’d be on another plane. When you aren’t designing or dancing, you’re an obsessive... reader? I read a book called The Interestings by Meg Wolitzer. Don’t know if you’ve heard of it. I wouldn’t put it in my pile of highly-recommended. I think it should be called The Uninterestings. I did read a fascinating novel, Life After Life by Kate Atkinson. It’s about that whole sliding door theme, like there’s a path you can take and you can go that way, or what your whole would have been if you had turned this direction as opposed to the other. What would have been your sliding doors story if you didn’t become a designer? Definitely something in a creative field, like the costumes for the New York City Ballet, or a makeup artist. Let’s sidetrack and talk about your collection. It’s what I call modern romantic. I had seen a movie over the summer about Renoir, and there was a line he said, to paraphrase, “There’s so much ugliness in the world, why not do something pretty?” And that’s how I feel. My collections are always very feminine. But, definitely, my girl is wanting it to be more modern and slightly tomboy. You know, I always like things to be a little bit punky and little bit tomboy, but still sort of with the modern romantic approach. Are you still having fun? We’re in a really good space at the moment. You go through times as a designer where the momentum of fashion shifts. I’m always known for very feminine stuff. I remember Kal Ruttenstein was such a big supporter of mine, and he once said, “What happens if Annie Hall comes back into fashion?” And I would think, “Why would you say that?” But it’s true and he had seen it a hundred times. You adjust and you move. I want to be a better designer and give my customer something she didn’t know she wanted. Why did Kal say that to you?! I think he was just being flip. Just being flip! R U N WAY: C O U R T E S Y
September issue? Our monthly fashion calendar is haute of f the press
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You loved him in Twin Peaks! You adored him in Dune! Would you like to try his new vino, Pursued by Bear? Of course you would. The Daily takes nice-guy actor Kyle MacLachlan to lunch at ABC Kitchen to squeeze him for juice on his latest side project. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO How exactly does an actor get into the wine business? He drinks wine! I’ve been a wine lover since I was in high school before it was legal for me to drink. I’m originally from Eastern Washington, which for the past 25 to 30 years has slowly developed into a very exciting wine region. Where did you even start? I had a chance meeting with winemaker Eric Dunham, who agreed to partner with me on this venture. I wanted to learn, but I didn’t know what avenues to take. After all the romance of seeing your grapes and picking out the labels and seeing it in press, it comes down to selling. It turns out I like the salesman aspect to it. I like meeting new people! So what does it taste like? It’s very Washington State—rich red berry, blackberry, and cherry flavors. It’s a wine that pairs well with any meat dish. If you’re having lamb, or steak or even a burger, and you want something to balance its fat, then you want the bright acid component, which Washington does. We get that taste because the nights cool down and then there’s heat in the day. What’s Washington’s reputation in the wine world? We’re the underdog, but the quality and the price point are just as good as a wine coming from California. I feel somewhat of an ambassador. How did you come up with the name? “Pursued by Bear” is from [Shakespeare’s] The Winter’s Tale, Act 3, Scene 3, when the actor is chased off the stage and pursued by bear. The stage direction is very well known in the Shakespeare world. How often are you going to Washington? A few times a year. Part of the reason that I wanted to do this was because my dad was still living there and my brother was in Seattle. That was a motivation for me. Unfortunately, my father passed away a little over two years ago, so it’s bittersweet when I go now. There were times that my dad was there
From Twin Peaks to Dune and Sex and the City, grapeloving actor Kyle MacLachlan gives it his all. We do love a man in a kilt!
with me in the room, pressing the grapes and tasting the wine, and he would offer his two cents. I wish he were around to see this and to see my son. Any plans to give up acting for this? Oh no! The wine business does not pay enough. In order to make money you have to produce a lot at a low price point. If you don’t produce a lot then you have to sell it for more, but even then the business won’t afford me the kind of things that acting does. To really do it, you have to live there and make it a
“I’ve been a wine lover since I was in high school before it was legal for me to drink.” lifestyle. My wife, Desiree [Gruber], would be too bored out there. But you two actually met out in Los Angeles. How’d that go down exactly? Our first meeting was at a chiropractor’s office. She was in for a routine adjustment and I was there because I had some damage to my back. I saw her, but it was too quick to get her number. Two days later we both happened to be at the Talk magazine release party and we finally talked. We, have Tina Brown and our chiropractor, Dr. John Hertz to thank!
Do you still have a home in Hollywood? We have a place in the Hills. It’s a beautiful little spot. David Lynch is a neighbor. Billy Idol, Charlize Theron and Felicity Huffman are also neighbors. I’m a little tempted to go incognito on one of the Hollywood tours to find out who the rest of my neighbors are. Tell us about your new NBC show Believe, which starts filming in September. It’s produced by J.J. Abrams and shoots in New York City, which is great because my family and my life are here. The show is about a young girl who’s born with powers like telekinesis and mind reading. She’s been protected and kept secret for all these years and people are starting to find out about her. I play a wealthy mad man. Another wealthy and weird character—just like Trey on Sex and the City! You joined that show when its popularity was at its peak. What was that like? It was so fun to be a part of it. I recognized that I was part of something wonderful, but I was also there supporting it. It’s similar with how I felt about Desperate Housewives. I was invited in and had a great time, but it’s hard to take any credit for it. Those shows belonged to the women. What do people most stop you for on the street? People loved Desperate Housewives and Sex and the City, so I get that a lot. There’s a new generation of high school and college kids who have found Twin Peaks on DVD and love it. And Dune? Do you get nostalgic when it comes on? It’s really crazy to think it’s been 30 years since we made it. When I look back I think of the luck that I had to get cast from nowhere right out of college and brought into this giant production that started me on the road to movies. I don’t think I truly realized how significant that opportunity really was. I met some extraordinary people and it started my relationship with David Lynch. I was 23! Were you a party boy in those days? I was an “It” boy for a moment, but I wasn’t in New York or Los Angeles. When I filmed Dune, I had to agree not to appear in a movie or TV show until the film came out so there was no reason for me to be in those cities. I ended up going back to Seattle to do some plays there. I wasn’t around any bad influences. So, what you’re saying is, you had your s—t together? I felt like I had it together, but in hindsight, I had no idea what I was doing.
Kyle with Desiree and their son Callum
EVERETT COLLECTION (3); GETTY IMAGES
OH, BROOKLYN, YOUR BROOKLYN
Haven’t you heard? According to Gwynnie’s Goop, and now Vogue, the little outer borough that could is having a moment. Never mind that you had figured that out, like, ten years ago. And, pssst, Jeffrey, Roberta’s is soooo overexposed. Want the real scoop on Brooklyn? Ask its fashionable residents, or try our off-the-radar-for-now alternatives to its most overhyped eateries. BY SARAH HORNE GROSE
YOU’VE HEARD OF:
“[Brooklyn is ]
“[Brooklyn one of the most is] one of the most agreeable, agreeable, simpatico, attractive, and,simpatico, therefore, completely attractive, and obnoxious places to live on Earth.” therefore completely —JONATHAN
LETHEM, AUTHOR, TO NEW YORK
obnoxious places to live on Earth.” — Jonathan Lethem, author, to New York
Roberta’s Try SARAGHINA, IN BEDSTUY 435 Halsey Street Some say the brickSaraghina oven pies are better than Roberta’s. Debate that point over a crispy, chewy pizza topped with sausage and greens while you soak in the no-attitude vibe (sans lines, naked waitresses, and gawking Manhattanites tapping out über requests into their phones).
Hotel Delmano Try ACHILLES HEEL, IN GREENPOINT 180 West Street The fashion flock have certainly discovered Hotel Delmano, the 1920s-style cocktail den just off the Bedford L (we spotted Ralph Lauren there several years back), but if you’re after a quieter speakeasy, head to Andrew Tarlow’s marinerinspired Achilles Heel.
A MOMENT WITH Claude Morais and Brian Wolk, Ruffian
Where are we most likely to find you in Brooklyn? Brooklyn? What is Brooklyn?? We are from Williamsburg! When we are not relaxing chez Ruffian, we can be found dining at Walter Foods, having cocktails at Maison Premiere, or catching a movie at Nighthawk. Has Brooklyn gotten overhyped? Should the coolhunting types just go away? We are pretty big snobs and stick to BBurg, but the more the merrier! Why does the media seem to have caught on to Brooklyn NOW? Well, the creative culture and artists have been making an exit from Manhattan for over a decade. People are [always] starved for a cultural infusion, creative living, bigger spaces and a better life, so we are not really surprised. What are your three top secret Brooklyn spots? Zenkichi, a very private japanese restaurant, Bakeri for the best latte in NYC and amazing cookies and pastries, and The Drink. All in Williamsburg!
Marc Jacobs, at his fave Brooklyn tattoo parlor, Saved, in Williamsburg.
Pok Pok Try FALANSAI, IN BUSHWICK 112 Harrison Place The team behind San Fran’s Slanted Door have opened this Vietnamese joint, sure to tantalize your taste buds just as Falansai much as the Thai fare at Red Hook’s Pok Pok. Why suffer the indignity of eating dinner at 6 p.m.? FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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When he jumped off the J.Crew ship to launch his own brand in 2011, Todd Snyder found himself swimming in unchartered territory. The Daily recently joined this fly-by-the-seat-of-his-sea-pants designer for, appropriately, an oyster-shucking lesson at Jeffrey’s Grocery in NYC’s West Village. Ahoy, mate! BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO So what’s with the oyster shucking? I grew up in Iowa and obviously we didn’t have a lot of oysters there. or much exposure [to them]. I didn’t eat oysters until I moved to the East Coast 20 years ago and I always thought shucking them would be very daunting. It’s actually quite simple. It sounds like you’re really into food. Food is part of my ethos. I use food as an analogy in the way I design clothes. The ingredients are known, it’s how you mix it together that makes it unique. Meanwhile, your brand seems to be having a moment! It’s a dream come true. It’s happening so fast. Things are growing. We’re opening our first store in Japan next year. More and more people are discovering us. Your success wasn’t overnight, though… I started out as a tailor assistant and taught myself how to sew. I’ve worked at Ralph, Gap and J.Crew as the SVP of menswear. I’ve worked in the industry for 20 years. My father FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
always said that if you want to be the best, work for the best. That was the best piece of advice he ever gave me. My other philosophy is just being nice. It sounds like the simplest concept, but you’d be amazed how many people screw that up. Were you scared when you left J.Crew? I was scared s--tless. I resigned in 2008, two days before Lehman Brothers went bankrupt and I was like, “Holy crap!” I started working from the basement of my home and I didn’t know if I was going to make it. I started working on my collection in 2010 and was doing odd jobs here and there to pay the bills. We launched in 2011. I’m still scared s--tless. We’re starting to finally hit that second year mark where people see we’re legit. Bergdorf’s, Barneys, and Odin have been so supportive. Our business keeps growing. How did Mickey Drexler take it when you resigned? He was really supportive. Mickey’s always been kind of like a dad to me. My dad passed away 12 years ago so he became a father figure. I wouldn’t be here today if it weren’t for him. And you worked with Jenna Lyons there, too. I remember her from the day I started. She and I were both assistants. I always knew she was going to be big. I’m a nominee for the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund and she’s on the panel. It’s very strange to be standing there in front of her. I have a lot of respect for her. She just has a presence. I knew she was going to be big.
How did you know? Well, she’s six foot. She’s kind of like a movie star. You’re also filming for the reality show based on the competition. It’s a bit nerve wracking. They are there once a week now, but it will be a lot more when Fashion Week starts. I got to meet Anna Wintour three weeks ago and that in itself was amazing. I told my wife, “Even if my business stopped tomorrow, I feel like I’ve made it.” [gets choked up] Sorry! I get a little emotional. What was the encounter like? She stopped by my studio for almost an hour asking me questions. I was asking her questions. I couldn’t believe it was happening. She’s Anna Wintour! I can’t even imagine what fashion would be like without her. She takes so much of her personal time and makes sure that the industry she loves always has a new resource. She looks at it as an art form, and wants to give back, which makes me want to give back. What does your wife think of all of this? I’ve been with her for almost 21 years. When I told her I was quitting J.Crew to do this she was like, “‘Whaaat?” I had no idea it was going to be this hard.
Ready, Willing, and
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CHIC Eats I spend more money on Darwin’s raw duck dog food than human food, but thankfully my kids are at an age where they can eat out of pouches, leaving me a nanosecond to scarf down a GG cracker laden with fat-free cottage cheese, while eyeing the Tito's Vodka for later. —ANNE SLOWEY, fashion news director, Elle
FRIDGE What's in your ice box? BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne is my favorite champagne ever: Oprah turned me on to it! I also always have Juice Press juices, specifically Dr. Green and Ginger Fireball, Serrano peppers, broccoli, asparagus, and Casamigos blanco tequila.
Hummus, Shiner Bock beer, water, eggs…and a human hand.
—PAUL RUDD, actor
—ADAM GLASSMAN, creative director, O
Quinoa salad, kale, blueberries, and soft-shell crabs. —STAR JONES, TV personality
Dark chocolate bars, Nova lox, yogurt with granola on top, raw steak, and this frozen mint lemonade I make! —LISA PERRY, designer
Goat milk, watermelon, and EBOOST Açaí-flavored energy shots. —MOLLY SIMS, actress
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
I’m Italian, so Parmesan cheese is as important as water! I also keep champagne, because you never know what next big thing you need to celebrate. Fruit makes me feel healthy, aka skinny. (Yes, men think about this sort of thing too!). —JOHN DELUCIE, chef, The Lion
Plugra European butter, which is my favorite condiment; PouillyFuissé wine, but only in the summer; and Similac baby formula, for my 10-month-old son, Beau. Oh, and pesto pizza from Otto. It's only offered on Monday nights, so we order a few to snack on during the week!—PUNCH HUTTON,
deputy editor, Vanity Fair
Hellmann's—which is the best mayo ever; French whole-fat butter, and two bottles of Domaines Ott champagne, for when friends drop by. I also drink a ton of coconut water, and snack on chunks of Pecorino Romano. — GEOFFREY ZAKARIAN, owner, The Lambs Club
I always have a full fridge. At any moment, I could feed an army! I like Fiji water bottles, because the square edges fit better in the fridge. I also have rosé wine, hummus, Peroni beer, and lychee juice. —FERN MALLIS, fashion consultant and Sirius XM host
My husband and son are obsessed with Devil Dills pickles, so we always have those, and we go through about four cartons of blueberries each day. Green Mountain Gringo Salsa from Vermont is the best salsa you can get in a jar, and I put Maille grain mustard in salad dressing, on fish, on hot dogs…everything! —ANNE FULENWIDER, editor-in-chief, Marie Claire
Stumptown Coffee, because it's my ally in life, and I'm a Brooklyn whole-bean-coffee snob. Life would be unbearable without it. Lemons, because they're the secret ingredient in everything.
—CINDI LEIVE, editor-in-chief, Glamour
Japanese eye drops, Retin-A, a Horny Gorilla juice from Juice Press, and maybe some Love Beets. Girl, you know I don’t eat! —GENEVIEVE JONES, gal about town I guess I just have normal things in my fridge: goat's milk, rosé wine, turkey hot dogs, Hershey’s kisses, jam...Can I keep going? —ZOSIA MAMET, actress Beyond Meat Chicken-Free Strips, half-drunk Diet Snapple Peach iced teas, and unsweetened almond milk. — ARIEL FOXMAN, managing editor, InStyle
My kids love smoked salmon, and it’s great for the skin. Pellegrino is my Diet Coke! Dark chocolate is the ultimate sweet indulgence, and I am obsessed with the combo of French cheese and red grapes. I could eat it every day!
—NINA GARCIA, creative director, Marie Claire
Water and prosciutto. —DEBI MAZAR, actress
There’s the brick-sized block of cheese we get every year from Max Mara and a bunch of Tri-X 400 camera film that’s been in there a while. Oh and a family-size bag of Maltesers—my favorite British chocolate, Gulden's, and Berocca, which is the only way to start the day. —ZANNA ROBERTS RASSI, senior fashion editor, Marie Claire
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FASHION Juicing and Jogging with Andrew Knowlton
Off the Runway with Christine Muhlke
A â€™Gram of Spice from Elizabeth Spiridakis Olson
Chicest Chefs Bon App Edition
DISH! The Thom Browne Recipe
CHIC DESSERT ALERT! On the menu at Manon this week: “Euphoria Calvin Klein Mochi Cake” with pomegranate and yuzu. CK-Yummeh.
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HAUTE LIST Anfora Bill’s Boqueria Cherry Crown Dell’Anima Distilled Edi & The Wolf L’Apicio L’Artusi Lexington Brass Lincoln Ristorante Manon Manzanilla Market Table Pearl & Ash Porsena Pulqueria Rana Sen Stella 34 Takashi The Fat Radish The General The Leadbelly The Lion The Musket Room Willow Road
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TABLE FOR VOUS VOUS, PLEASE! For the third year running, Bon App is waging war on your hard-won beach bod, with curated menus at the city’s hautest restaurants (see sidebar) and a Flash Reservations service to nab impossible-to-score tables at the mag’s Top 50 spots. Check out BAFeastorFashion.com for the full spread, and follow @BonAppetit on Twitter for updates. You’ve got enough seating assignments to fret about, chéries. Leave the post-show details to the pros! ☛
FEAST OR FASHION
FÊTE WATCH! Since you’ve been known to enjoy the occasional cocktail or five after a long day at The Tents, Bon App is rolling out the bar cart, as well. What’s that mean for you? A trifecta of boozy mixers with big names aplenty from the food and fashion spheres. Things kicked off Thursday in NoHo at the mag’s first-ever Hot 10 Party at 214 Lafayette, hosted by literary-chic eyewear evangelists Warby Parker. The Daily’s new favorite pro-bono juice consultant, Bon App restaurant and drinks editor Andrew Knowlton, made the list, so blame him. (Also, see page 39). On FLASH Sunday, it’s Thakoon RESERVATIONS! and Mission Chinese Each and every day this Food maestro Danny week, The Rap Pack is taking Bowien’s turn to host over the reservation books at at Haven’s Kitchen, 109 three of the best new restauW. 17th St. On Monday, rants in America, the names the plat de résistance: of which will be announced A dowager-chic soion their site and via Twitter. ree hosted by Thom (Tables will be doled out on Browne at La Grenouille. a first-come, first-served Très tasty, non? basis, but tossing them a few retweets probably wouldn’t hurt, wink-wink). Follow @BonAppetit for the latest Flash Reservation slots and other delectable dish.
Leather McLovin’! With Pearl & Ash’s Richard Kuo Who’s your style icon? Robert Downey Jr. He just has that scruffy, I-don’t-give-a-sh*t look. That’s kind of how I roll. What’s your sartorial signature? I’m a big fan of leather. I probably carry more cows around with me than McDonald’s sells on an average day! How do you dress each morning? I’m very casual and functional. If it’s raining, I wear Gore-Tex waterproof hiking boots. Most days, it’s comfortable jeans, a T-shirt, and sneakers. What will we never find in your closet? I don’t wear polyester shirts anymore. I decided a few years ago that I’d no longer buy them. Where do you shop near Pearl & Ash? INA on Bleecker Street always has some interesting stuff. I’ll pop my head in and see what they have. Any ordering advice for a first-timer? Definitely the octopus. If you’re a meat eater, the meatballs and skirt steak are great, too. We cook the steak for two days, so it’s super, super tender. It’s quite popular with chefs, which is always a good sign. What’s your secret? We stay open until midnight, and not many restaurants do that nowadays. Mondays and Tuesdays are our busiest nights, because that’s when industry people are off. People show up at 11:30 or 11:45 p.m. and stay until they’re done eating, which is 3:00 or 4:00 a.m. sometimes! Pearl & Ash is one of the 50 nominees on Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants list. Why do you think it made the cut? I sometimes ask myself, “How the hell did we get here?!” We’re just three noname guys. Suddenly, we’ve had this buzz in the industry. It’s really cool. There’s been a trend to strip away luxury and unnecessary elements of food and make things as focused as possible. It’s not a restaurant just for a niche market. What’s the story behind the name? It came out of a casual conversation. As a kid growing up in an Asian family, there’s folklore that with a beautiful pearl, you don’t need an ornate box to put it in. Plus, Pearl & Ash just has a ring to it. Do you wear pearls? Nope. I’m not a big wearer of jewelry. Just my watch! ON THE COVER: Adam Rapoport and Thom Browne photographed by Giorgio Niro.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
G E T T Y I M A G E S ; B FA N YC . C O M ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; K L E I N & A L L R E S TA U R A N T S C O U R T E S Y
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Sharp-tailored suitsmith Thom Browne is a culinary creature of habit. Bon Appétit EIC Adam Rapoport is an unrepentant clothes horse who will eat anywhere—and has. On a recent afternoon at Browne's TriBeCa boutique, they discussed the classics (La Grenouille), new frontiers (Long Island City, anyone?), and Thom's ridiculous champagne collection. It was delicious. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO ADAM: We're going to start with your morning routine. You are a runner, yes? THOM: Run, coffee and toast, work. How long do you go out for? A little over an hour. About eight miles. Wow! Every day? How long have you been doing it? Well, I started running in college, so… What about running shoes—loyal to any brands? Nike or New Balance. I can’t imagine you as the guy who just walks into Foot Locker and grabs the orange and purple Nike shoes… No. I am the one who walks in and complains about the colors [laughs]. What ever happened to red, white, and blue or just white with a little navy? So at eight miles a day, how long will one pair last you? About four weeks. Four weeks? Wow! When you get home, do you go out for coffee and toast or make coffee and toast? I always go out. I go out to Nougatine every morning. That’s in Columbus Circle! You don’t live up by there. Do you go to Nougatine and come back downtown? Explain that. The average person will just go around the corner. When I lived uptown, I went there every day and it is a perfect restaurant for the morning. The light and the coffee are really good. I just love starting the day there. Espresso? Macchiato? Double espresso with milk. Whole milk or skim? Whole milk. Nice! We at Bon Appétit are happy to hear that! Sugar? One sugar. So, are you usually down [in TriBeCa] during the work day? No. I am in Chelsea [at headquarters]. Or it’s either Midtown for women’s or Long Island City for men’s. So if you are in Chelsea, what are your lunch options? Cookshop for soup and a salad. And in Midtown? I never eat in Midtown. You just don’t eat that day? I don’t. There isn’t a place that I get food from. Ummm, there must be, there must be. Um…no, there actually isn’t. Are you ever in Long Island City in the middle of the day? Yeah, and there is actually a good place called Sage. We’ll have to remember that! You spend time in Milan and Paris, where they always have wine with lunch. Do you have a glass? And do you ever do that when you’re back in New York? I don’t do it so much here. On a weekend I will do it. There? No, because we are usually in the office. So I am not lunching, but dinner a lot! What about champagne? What’s your pour of choice? Krug is my favorite—cold! If I were to open up your refrigerator right now, how many bottles of champagne would I find in there? Well, it is stocked up, so…[laughs] FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What does that mean? Around two cases. Two cases in the fridge right now? Of Krug or a mix? I mix. There’s Krug, a couple bottles of Dom Pérignon, couple bottles of Cristal and then mostly Bollinger and Taittinger. But I also buy half bottles. Oh, I actually have some bottles of rosé champagne in the fridge too: Ronar. What sort of glasses do you have at home? Mostly coupes. All vintage. How many would you reckon you have? Probably about 30 sets. Thirty sets? That would be about 60, right? How many come in a set? No, there are about four to six in a set. You have over a hundred coupes! Where do you store them all? In my kitchen or on champagne carts. I love how you are like, “Of course everyone’s got a hundred champagne glasses in their apartment!” So, let’s talk wardrobe: Say I bumped into you on a Saturday or Sunday. What would you be wearing? This. Do you ever not wear a tie? When I am running. Right! So back to food. We both like La Grenouille. When was the first time you went? Probably the early Nineties. Has it changed at all? No. That is what’s so great about it. It’s timeless, so beautiful, and the food is exactly what it wants to be. What do you typically order when you go? I always forget the name of it. It’s this poached chicken à la something. Where do you like to eat in Paris? I am there for work most of the time so I’m [eating] in my room. What is your go-to room service order? It is usually just vegetables and rice. And champagne? Champagne and a cheese plate. But in Milan, the room service at the Grand Hotel et de Milan really has the best spaghetti. Do you drink champagne in Italy? I drink champagne. I do drink wine, too. What about cocktails? I don’t drink liquor. Just never did. I think it probably had to do with some shots of something at the swim team parties [in college]. Do you still swim, seeing as you were a onetime competitive swimmer? I haven’t swum since college. Really? So you don’t even do laps or something when you go to the pool? Oh, I’ll go into the pool! What kind of swimsuit are you wearing? Just, like, shorts… Any brand you want to mention? Thom Browne! SHUTTERSTOCK; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
I love good simple desserts like chocolate mousse.
MUHLKE’S MUSTS Bon App Executive Editrix (and Daily alum!) Christine Muhlke has the fashion month grind down to a science. Here with her selects... BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
DINING DO’s: “The room at Septime (80 Rue de Charonne) is beautiful and the food, masterminded by a former graphic designer, is endlessly innovative. It’s easier to get in at lunch, or visit the new wine bar next door.” COCKTAIL KLATCH: “There’s always trouble to be found at Aux Deux Amis (45 Rue Oberkampf). The people-watching alone is worth the crush! It’s like an APC lookbook exploded.” CAN’T-MISS CAFÉ: “Télescope (5 Rue Villedo) is the best coffee in Paris— certainly the coolest café—and not far from the Louvre. You might spot Camille BidaultWaddington next to the shoe store, André. Bonus: It’s near a good consignment shop and hipster Japanese restaurants.” BOUTIQUE BET: “Petit Atelier de Paris (31 Rue de Montmorency) is a magical ceramics store with a Franco-Japanese aesthetic. So many gifts, so little time. I’m also obsessed with the store mascot, Pompon the dog.” CULTURE CLUBS: “There’s always a good photography show at Jeu de Paume (1 Place de la Concorde). Yvon Lambert bookstore (108 Rue Vieille du Temple) has a fantastic selection of art books, zines, editions, and limited-edition Cy Twombly and Basquiat posters.” MUST WEAR: “I spend the whole day out walking—and eating—so I’d opt for easy Christophe Lemaire trousers, with a Dries coat (above) and ankle boots from my cheap secret, André. Look closely: they rip off Margiela and Isabel Marant!” FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DINING DO’s: “M. Wells Dinette at PS1 MoMA (lunch only, Thurs.– Mon., 22-25 Jackson Ave., Long Island City) offers brilliant, intense food served in a contemporary art museum. The best place to sneak out to lunch: It’s just minutes from Times Square! Also, a former Roberta’s chef is doing some weird magic in Gowanus at The Pines (284 Third Ave., Brooklyn).” VINO FIX: “OK, so Pearl & Ash (220 Bowery, NYC) is a restaurant, but it has smart, small plates and a wine list that’s especially strong on champagnes.” CAN’T-MISS CAFÉ: “The new Stumptown (30 W. 8th St., NYC) location pays homage to the old Village restaurant, complete with ferns. I love the drip bar, the light fixtures, and the peanut butter–studded brownies from Choc.” BOUTIQUE BETS: “Nepenthes (307 W. 38th St., NYC) combines cult Japanese workwear with art shows. And the location couldn’t be weirder (or more convenient to Times Square). Also, we use so much from Canvas (199 Lafayette St., NYC) in Bon Appétit—tabletop, furniture, accessories. One-stop shopping.” CULTURE CLUB: “Via London, 5x15 (5x15stories .com) brings together interesting and stylish thinkers for 15-minute presentations. Think Grace Coddington and Joe Conason.” MUST WEAR: “For dinner, an obscureeverything dress and wonky shoes from A Détacher (above).”
DINING DO’s: “Regulars like Brian Atwood get to keep their knife at Controvapore (Via Carlo Goldoni, 3), a clubby steak restaurant that serves delicious pastas, thick-grilled Chianina steaks, and roasted potatoes at prices that will set your expense account aflame. Also, Aromando Bistrot (Via Moscati, 13) is an incredibly cute new organic restaurant filled with vintage furniture (and tasty produce). A refreshing change from Da Giacomo.” COCKTAIL KLATCH: “Cucchi (Corso Genova, 1) is the best place for people-watching during aperitivo.” CAN’T-MISS CAFÉ: “I’m obsessed with Italian chain Autogrill (Piazza del Duomo). The first thing I do in Italy is find one and order a spremuta, cappuccino, and a Rustichella—a pressed smoked pancetta and provolone sandwich with oregano that I love so much, it was once my e-mail address. This location couldn’t be closer to Prada and the Duomo.” BOUTIQUE BETS: “The knives and exquisitely crafted men’s grooming tools at G. Lorenzi (Via Montenapoleone, 9) make me wish I didn’t refuse to check luggage. Plus, design gallery Nilufar (Via della Spiga, 32) shows great vintage and modern furniture. I loved it when she had Martino Gamper take apart her Gio Ponti chairs and make new ones.” CULTURE CLUB: “I always love slipping into Pinacoteca di Brera (Via Brera, 28) to see the collection of Italian paintings—Bellini, Caravaggio, Tintoretto, you name it—not to mention the students at the neighboring art school.” MUST WEAR: “Milan is skirt and heels to me. I’d opt for head-to-toe Marni (above), furry bits and all.” PORTRAIT BY GIORGIO NIRO; FIRSTVIEW (3); SHUTTERSTOCK
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Boîte to Trot
Despite regularly wolfing down up to 200,000 calories in a single month (yes, you read that right), Bon Appétit’s restaurant and drinks editor, Andrew Knowlton, can still fit through his front door. How is that even possible? Over omelets, Salade Niçoise and several glasses of rosé, the stubbornly svelte gourmand explains. We’ll have what he’s having! BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY VITAL AGIBALOW
How crazy does your eating get? If I went to a nutritionist and broke down my eating, they’d tell me that I have a serious disorder. I go through fits of eating 200,000 calories in a month, going completely nuts, and eating so much, it would gross anyone out. How do you balance it out? By extreme juicing and spinning. Wait, really? If you told me eight years ago that I’d be doing that and spinning, I’d have laughed. I juice once every two months for seven days. I like challenging my body, whether it’s juicing or eating pounds of foie gras. How do you feel après-juicing? I’d go off and an apple would taste like an apple again. People should go on a cleanse for five days just to eat a cheeseburger afterward: It’ll be the greatest f*cking cheeseburger you’ve ever had! Do you have a juicing joint of choice? I actually got a Heron juicer. I’ve now started making juices in the morning with my breakfast, or when I’m on the road. I like kale, celery, cucumber, a bit of ginger, and if I’m feeling particularly healthy, I put spirulina powder in. What’s your exercise M.O.? Every day I’m on the road, I run. I always choose my hotel based on the nearest public running path. I average five miles a day, four days a week. The first thing I do when I land is go running, and in the morning, no matter what, I go for a jog. Any other physical pursuits? I never thought I’d say this, but I’m into the whole spinning thing. The only thing you have to do is show up. Lifting weights for 45 minutes? I ain’t that motivated! Where do you spin? Equinox. I have my instructors there. It’s all about the music. I can’t stand the techno disco FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“I like challenging my body, whether it’s juicing or eating pounds of foie gras.”
sh*t. But if they play Led Zeppelin or Radiohead or The Black Keys it gets me through it. What happens when you skip workouts? If I go a week without exercising I will feel the way I did in my twenties, and I don’t wanna feel that way anymore. What about when you drink? Now, I’m waking up with a hangover with a child. The key to being a parent is drinking early. You gotta be done drinking by 10 p.m. If you’re doing it until 1 a.m. you’re going to f*cking hate life in the morning. If I know I’m going to drink, I’ll have one at my desk around 4:30 or 5 p.m. Cocktails at the office still exist? That’s Bon Appétit for you! If you walked into a meeting at 12 p.m. and had a beer and said you were just trying it because it’s a new release, no one would question it. I can’t imagine having a job where it wouldn’t be normal to have a glass of whiskey. Has there been a shift industry-wide when it comes to eating and drinking habits? There used to be a macho approach about getting fat and eating as much as possible. Chefs stopped doing that and started exercising. There was a saying that you should never trust a skinny chef, but you should trust a skinny chef. They’re taking care of themselves. That’s not to say Mario Batali’s food isn’t good, but we’ve turned the corner on healthy eating. What about all the foodie blogger critics? There are a lot of super-skinny people who write about food. Sometimes I wonder if they enjoy food. There’s a difference between eating a bowl of soup and just digging into it. At the end of the day, if you’re calling yourself a foodie, when you sit down with a plate of food, if you savor it, it gets complicated. It should be messy. Would your expense account make others at Condé Nast jealous? I’m sure they spend more on one page at Vogue than my expense account! My FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
father would probably shoot me if he knew how much I spend at restaurants. I’ve had dinners that cost $1,000 for two people, which is the most ludicrous, stupid thing in the world—but I don’t spend that on clothes, I don’t go to concerts. I spend on food. Is there anything you always finish? A burger. Even if its “eh.” It’s like a slice of pizza. I don’t trust people who don’t eat the crust. But to finish something you don’t like or don’t think tastes good? That’s just weird to me. Anything you’ll never order? There are only three foods I will not eat: Kidneys taste like urine, I hate green bell peppers, and kiwis. They’re fuzzy, and don’t even taste that good. Do you ever get eater’s remorse? You should never be afraid or ashamed of eating! Guilty pleasures are a very American way of thinking about it. Food is food. Your mind and your belly are so related. We can learn a lot from the Europeans. Have there been shifts in Bon Appétit during your time at the mag? The old BA sometimes lacked a voice, and the new version definitely has a voice. It’s got more of a point of view—people say it’s younger, but really it’s just reflective of the people who work there. Are you one of the longer-running staffers at the mag? I am the oldest tenured employee at Bon Appétit…by 10 years! I’m like the staff historian; I’m the archivist. In a meeting, someone will suggest a story, and I’ll be like, “We did that in 2005, thank you very much!” I’m not old—I’m 38—but I’m the oldest employee by a while. Before, people had been there 20 or 25 years. Why did Bon Appétit survive during Condé’s plug-pulling days? There’s a reason Condé Nast went with Bon Appétit instead of Gourmet. I heard they were spending more money on stories, and we were a more frugal magazine. Our bread and butter to this day is our recipes! Food has now become most people’s form of entertainment—that wasn’t the case 10 years ago. Does that annoy you? The more the merrier. Though, people ask me that about Food Network all the time, which I don’t watch anymore because it makes me want to shoot myself in the face. Why? Food is something I care about deeply, and they turned it into some sort of sideshow. But whatever gets people cooking and into the kitchen! I don’t like when people just have a checklist of restaurants they want to go to once and they check once they’re done. How do you compile the “Hot 10” list, exactly? I do my homework. I have scouts in many cities. Then I make a list of 200 restaurants. In July, I was already working on the 2014 list! Then I whittle it down to 100 restaurants, and I go to all of them. After that, I winnow it down further, and eventually spend sleepless nights figuring out who should be number one. Do you usually dine alone? I like eating with my wife when I can. It’s comfortable, and I don’t stand out. People will notice if I’m eating out by myself at four or five different places in, say, St. Louis. Sitting at the bar and ordering half the f*cking menu? People ask if I’m in the industry. How do you respond? I say I’m just there on business, and that I work for a tech company that’s looking into opening an office there. I feel like a lot of tech people are nerdy and will dine at the bar. I’m the biggest liar. How else do you stay inconspicuous? Every year I pick an anonymous name, like random baseball players I remember from the Eighties. This year, I used my father-in-law’s name, Teddy Skogly. It’s nice to spell something, instead of using, say, “Dick Williams.” I’d rather get the same experience as everyone else, and if someone likes you, it’s hard not to like them back. Does it really make a difference? The more a chef is busting their balls and hand-delivering dishes, or sits down with you and tells you they just broke up with their wife or that business is rough, the harder it is to be objective. Thoughts on friendships with chefs? It happens, but if you get to the point of putting someone on a list because you have a relationship with them—when you’re not seeing flaws because you’re friends—that’s a problem. How do you keep track of all your meals? I type things up when I’m back at my hotel. But with everyone taking out their phones to Instagram their meals these days, it looks fine for me to take out mine. Everyone’s a f*cking “food critic” now, so restaurants don’t even know who the food critic really is!
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DANNY BOWIEN, Mission Chinese Food
What’s the most beloved item in your closet? The outfit I wore to the James Beard Awards this year: a light blue Dries Van Noten suit, Raf Simons shirt and Air Jordan 11’s. That evening was so special for me! Every time I see those pieces, it brings back those memories. Do you have any particularly chic friends? I’ve met a few fashion pals, mostly at the restaurant. Alexander Wang came in a while back. Q-Tip comes in often, and he’s very fashionable. Who’s your favorite designer? Fashion is like music and food: Different people do different things. Raf Simons is a favorite. I get excited about Jil Sander because their trousers fit me pretty well. I really like Margiela for shoes, Dries for dress shirts, and Fendi for suits. What will we never catch you wearing? Flip-flops.
Style WITH A
Ten top foodies who never skimp on presentation! BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
How would you describe your personal style? I am classic with one or two stylistic twists. But I try never to wear “outfits.” They’re too textbook. You end up looking like a furniture showroom. What’s your signature look? Bespoke sport jackets with jeans and my glasses. If we surprised you with a kitchen visit, what might we find you in? The same thing—just with a handmade chef coat. What will we never catch you wearing? Baseball hats. They are juvenile and hopelessly unchic. Also, any article of clothing with a logo on it. It strikes me as lazy.
Do you have a signature style? Scarves. It celebrates the occasion. What’s the most beloved item in your closet? Probably my vintage Yves Saint Laurent jacket that feels perfect every time I put it on. What’s the strangest thing in your closet? There’s no one thing, but in my travels I’ve begun to see the lines blur between men’s and women’s clothing. There are certain accessories, like scarves and sunglasses, that I share with my wife. Who’s your favorite designer? That has to be Tom Ford! What about style icons? I’m always inspired by David Bowie, Bob Marley, and Fela Kuti because they all had a very strong style identity. It’s how you rock it that makes it one’s own.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
B E R S E L I U S : N AT H A N R AW L I N S O N ; I N O U E : S H A N N O N S T U R G I S ; S T U L M A N : H E N R Y H A R G R E AV E S ; Z A K A R I A N : G I O R G I O N I R O ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
The Lambs Club and The National
Corkbuzz wine and spirits director What’s your signature look? I have been wearing high heels to wine events for years and I think my colleagues wouldn’t recognize me now without them. Although, I have become more sensible in my old-ish age. Now, I wear flats until the event starts. What will we never catch you wearing? Camouflage, zebra, or cheetah. I just feel so ludicrous wearing such bold patterns. Got any tricks for removing wine stains, given your vino-guzzling gig? I use white wine to get red wine stains out of my clothes. I don’t know how it works, but it does!
ERIC RIPERT, Le Bernardin
B E R S E L I U S : N AT H A N R AW L I N S O N ; I N O U E : S H A N N O N S T U R G I S ; S T U L M A N : H E N R Y H A R G R E AV E S ; Z A K A R I A N : G I O R G I O N I R O ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
What’s a typical ensemble like? My day-to-day style is very casual. I walk to Le Bernardin every day from my house through Central Park, so this exercise, combined with the weather, dictates what I wear. But it’s a basic combination of sneakers, jeans and T-shirts. If we surprised you with a kitchen visit, what might we find you in? I’m traditional! I wear a classic white chef jacket, mostly with laid-back sneakers, but I have more dressy shoes for when I need to go into the dining room. How do you get gussied up at night? If I am going to a party, I usually put on a jacket, and if I have to go to an elegant event, I like to wear suits and shirts from Italian designers. I try to keep it simple most of the time, which means I can’t go too wrong. What’s a must-have that takes up the most room in your closet? I have been known to go into Gap and buy 20 black T-shirts in one go!
restaurateur, Montmartre, Fedora, Perla, Jeffrey’s Grocery, Joseph Leonard and Chez Sardine Do you have a signature style? A crisp pair of slip-on white canvas Vans. I order them in bulk. Who are your style icons? I love the style of the Twenties. I watch Boardwalk Empire and I’m always inspired by the way those guys look. I love the idea of dressing in a great tailored suit with a nice hat and a beautiful watch. Who’s your favorite designer? Ralph Lauren. He’s timeless. I wear a lot of Double RL. Do you attend MercedesBenz Fashion Week? I’ve never been. I’d like to see Ralph Lauren and also Saint Laurent in Paris. What won’t we find you donning? Skinny jeans!
TAKASHI INOUE, Takashi
How would you describe your personal style? It depends on the occasion. Usually, I like comfortable, sexy clothing. Who are your style icons? No one famous. People on the streets of NYC are the most inspiring. If we surprised you with a kitchen visit, what might we find you in? Jeans, a T-shirt, and a cap. Who’s your favorite designer? Dsquared2, because they are always surprising me. What will we never catch you wearing? Loose-fitting clothes. I work hard at the gym!
FREDRIK BERSELIUS, Aska
How would you describe your personal style? I like minimalist, functional pieces. A lot of black, dark blue, green and gray. I prefer quality pieces that last, as my style doesn’t change that much. Seeing as you’re a chef in Williamsburg, do you ever get called a hipster? “Hipster” seems to be considered more of an insult than a compliment these days! But I really don’t care about titles. What’s the most beloved item in your closet? A pair of Swedish army shorts that were my grandfather’s, from 1920. I’ve never actually taken them out and worn them— they’re more sentimental—but the quality and design is amazing. Who are your favorite designers? Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten and Helmut Lang. People who are good at their craft, but think outside the box.
Pearl & Ash managing partner and wine director How would you describe your personal style? I just wear what’s comfortable and makes me happy. What’s your signature look? Many people comment on my T-shirts. I have over 100 at this point. I’ve been collecting them since high school. They’re primarily skateboard and metal and punk band shirts. What do you wear on the floor? The aforementioned T-shirts, jeans, and Chuck Taylors. Sometimes a flannel shirt when it’s colder out. Style icons, please! Sid Vicious or Henry Rollins seem to have influenced me as a kid. What will we never catch you wearing? Argyle socks.
CHRISTINA TOSI, Momofuku Milk Bar
What’s your signature look? In the kitchen, it’s a bow in the hair. Like the Talking Heads song, “I got a girlfriend with bows in her hair.” A little classic flair goes a long way, preserves the little lady in me, and reminds me to never take myself too seriously! What’s the most beloved item in your closet? A wooden chain necklace that I wear every day, without fail. I found it in a thrift store in Virginia years ago for $1. It goes with everything I own. Do you ever cook in heels? Nope!
A ’GRAM OF SPICE Bon Appétit’s art director, Elizabeth Spiridakis Olson (aka@white_lightning to her 13,000-plus followers), was racking up likes on Insta way before vous. We asked her for her recipe. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
Tell us about your @white_lightning Instagram handle. I started a style blog almost six years ago that was called White Lightning; it was pretty popular and I have always been known by that. It’s best to keep your name standard across platforms so my Twitter and Insta were WL from the get-go! How did you get hooked? When my husband, Preston, was just my new awesome boyfriend, he was really into Instagram and that got me curious. I signed up in June 2011. I remember because we spent the weekend at the Madonna Inn, Preston posted all these cool pics, and I was like, “Wait, I wanna do that too!” I became obsessed with it. I love social media, for the most part. How many do you post a day? I usually do one to two a day. If my day is quite comely, I do more. I feel like more than four or five a day for a personal account is a bit much, unless it is something like Fashion Week or an event like a wedding, and you’re posting legitimately interesting and new stuff. Other than that, you’re clogging the feed. In what setting will we never catch you Instagramming? I will never Instagram on or around a toilet. I hate gross stuff on Instagram; I’m like, “Thanks, I didn’t really need to see that.”
What are the most annoying photos you see people post from fashion shows? Just a dark runway blur that looks pretty much like nothing. Thanks! Which filters do you dig most for fashion shots? I am partial to Mayfair, Rise, Hudson and Valencia. What are your best tricks for great Instagram shots from the front row? Shoot with the phone camera and add to Insta later! Anchor your elbow to hold the camera as straight and still as possible. You have the best vantage point for shooting video, too, so do it! I love seeing Vines and videos of all the models walking at the end. It’s a cool, quick way to get a glimpse of a collection. What are the major differences between amazing Instagram shots of food vs. fashion? Food looks best overhead and fashion is better straight-on. Which designers’ pieces tend to make for the best Instagrams? Shoes and bags. Everybody loves a bag and a shoe. They look the best on or off the body. Clothes are less attractive without a body. Although, I think outfits laid out in a cool way on the floor can be successful. It better be in a brightly lit room, though! That makes all the difference.
PLUS! Elizabeth’s faves to follow... “This is a weird list, but my taste is strange as of late. Not all of these have the best pictures ever, but they always at least have inspirational style!” @seaofshoes @refinery29 @fashflood @cmbenz @advancedstyle @ascia_akf @zanabayne @hateboy2 @stylelikeu @lillipore @taghrid @earthgirlsareeasy @agentlover
TOP FIVE INSTA-DO’S! 1. DO…utilize a hashtag. We made sure everyone at our wedding knew our hashtag (#epomg) and asked them to use it at will. We ended up with over 400 amazing photos that we could look through the morning after. Anything you shoot often and want to be able to find all in one spot? #HASHTAGIT! 2. DO…shoot first, Insta later. I never take the photo in-app. After I shoot, I use an editing app. Maybe you can’t always get the best natural light, or your picture is totally crooked, so an editing app helps you tweak to get the best pictures possible. I like things light, bright, and straight (or at least at an angle that I think is perfect). I like Snapseed and Afterlight. Then, pop the shot into Insta. Done and done. It sounds crazy, but it makes a difference. 3. DO…make use of natural light. For the most part, the best pics you see on Instagram are outside, by a window, or in a really well-lit room. You can make the best of it (see rule above) and still have something great. But when you can, use real light. 4. DO…take a sec and capture the moment. Hold the phone steady, make sure it’s focused, and think about your composition. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
5. DO…choose a specialty subject(s). Things that are always pleasing to me: dogs, kids, shoes and bags, overhead table shots, a crowd, a beautiful street, sick manicures, an interesting outfit, your awesome living room, kitchen, or bedside set-up, and behind the scenes at your studio, magazine, or restaurant.
TOP FIVE INSTA-DON’TS! 1. DON’T…post your coffee. I don’t care, I’m sorry. A lot of people love this. I don’t know why, but I can’t deal. 2. DON’T…do dark. (See No. 3 in the Insta-do’s list.) Also: Unfocused blurs that aren’t for an artful reason? Your food at a candlelit restaurant? Not great. Again, you can tweak ’em with editing apps, but sometimes they aren’t salvageable. 3. DON’T…treat this like Tumblr. If you just post rando Internet pics or a flyer for a band or DJ night, I don’t want to have you in my feed. I like pretty pictures. 4. DON’T…challenge the format. I like seeing squares. I have broken this rule, like, three times. I like the circle frame in Afterlight and once—ONCE!—I posted a vertical rectangle, but I felt weird about it. If you make a horizontal pic, everything is just so small. It bothers me. 5. DON’T…use a frame. I’m not big on them. Or Kelvin. Please, never Kelvin. ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
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LORD & TAYLOR
“We don’t really do lines in Denmark,” claimed Thor, a bit haughtily, at our early morning rendezvous. Later, he admitted to waiting in line for NutriForce protein powder. Ryan added that he had waited on line for Paul McCartney tickets.
HUNKIN’ CRONUTS We sent three of Soul Artist Management’s hottest male models—Thor Bulow, Ryan Mertz, and Cory Bond—to join the hungry masses in line to sample America’s trendiest pastry. It was kind of delicious. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO
Ryan was the most cavalier about consuming such a high-calorie pastry: “I’ll just run a little extra today,” he said. Thor and Cory looked a little nervous.
“It’s impossible to stop. You just can’t compare it to anything. It’s in a league of it it’s own,” said Ryan, after abandoning his plan to save half for his girlfriend.
Ryan was the most informed of the three, and said he’d been “salivating over cronuts for months.” “I had not heard of them before this,” said Thor, a recent New York transplant.
“It’s really good, though I don’t know if I’d come back at 4 a.m. tomorrow morning.” —Thor
“I’m going to need a workout after this.” —Ryan
“I think I should make a dentist appointment. That was very sweet!” —Cory
And, yet, it was love at first bite for Cory: “It’s got a lot of icing and sugar, and it’s kind of crunchy. There’s some filling in there, too. It’s special. I wish I had 10 more.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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