The Daily Front Row

February 18, 2015

kors’

sunnies Disposition! (just when you need it most...)

plus!

Donna Karan Tommy Hilfiger 3.1 Phillip Lim Zac Posen Tory Burch

Trim: 21.5inW x 13.5inH

MICHAELKORS.COM

H C T WA E V I IT L

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your daily dose

Gigi Hadid

SCENE

FACTS AND FIGURES!

With Tommy Hilfiger This show was epic!

Put us on the cover of The Daily and we’ll be very happy!

How did this show come about?

We were thinking about what’s inspired me over 30 years, and it seems timely to mix luxury with sports, so we married the two.

We thought, wouldn’t it be incredible to build a football stadium inside the Armory with Jumbotrons and scoreboards? So we did.

We don’t “I was a scholar even want athlete in 2000. to know Don’t act so shocked. I’m a secret jock.”

how much this cost you!

Plenty!

When did you first see the set?

I came on Sunday night and saw it get laid out and when I walked in, it was pretty amazing.

Are you a football player yourself?

When I was a young boy, I wanted to play, but I was too small. All the other guys were monsters, so I gave it up for rock ’n’ roll and going into my own business.

—Derek Blasberg

Rita Ora, Victor Cruz, Robert Kraft, and Dee Hilfiger

☛ For Tommy Hilfiger’s 30th anniversary, why not turn the Park Avenue Armory into a football field and make key pieces shoppable at Tommy.com? ☛ Donna Karan’s show was a more city-centric affair, with Broadway legends and the NYC skyline looming large. ☛

A panicked Gigi Hadid came up to us postshow: “Have you seen Pat McGrath or anybody from her team? She has my phone and I think she left!” she said.

If anyone finds it, call The Daily!

“I feel very American! Leave it to Tommy to re-create a football field in the middle of Park Avenue.

I’ve never seen a football match before.”—BryanBoy

SPORTS QUIZ! With Deborah Needleman

What’s your reaction to this football field?

It’s mind-blowing. I’m a little out of my league here, but it’s impressive.

Do you follow football?

Not at all. This is the closest I’ve ever gotten to a football game, including high school.

What did you do on Super Bowl Sunday?

We watched a crazy English series about technology. No hot dogs, no nothing!

REDHEAD LOVING!

With Donna Karan Your collection was inspired by the city Susan Sarandon skyline. What are your favorite buildings in New York?

I sit on Seventh Avenue and look down Broadway and the skyline is always behind me, but I live uptown and I see New York City all around me. The lights never cease to amaze me.

Your front row had Susan Sarandon and Bernadette Peters, and you work closely with Patti Cohen and Aliza Licht. You Coco Rocha have a lot of redheads in your life!

Oh, my God! How astute! I do. My daughter is turning her hair red, I heard. [Looks to Gabby, who nods no] What is it about redheads that you love?

I love the color, and they can wear black!

HELP A MODEL!

INSTAGRAMMING! With Johannes Huebl

Rich Hilfiger, Olivia Palermo, and Johannes Huebl

OSCAR BUZZ, PART 1!

OSCAR BUZZ, PART 2!

We haven’t seen you at a lot of shows.

I can’t make it work time-wise at the moment, because I’m working on a lot of projects. There’s too much waiting around. It’s badly organized in terms of the places and the schedule. You’re rushing uptown and downtown, so I’ve given up on trying to make it work, but our fashion editor, Aya Kanai, goes to everything.

What’s new?

I’m doing the red carpet for CNN for the Oscars. It’s a 90-minute preshow, and then a two-hour postshow.

What are you going to wear to the VF Oscar party?

Probably a Valentino dress from my closet.

I’m very low-maintenance, because I’m not getting an award.

Do you take pictures with the celebs?

Never! Other people can do that and it’s perfectly acceptable and fine, but it’s like being at Madame Tussauds. Everybody’s famous but you. It feels too awkward, and Graydon [Carter] likes to keep it like a family affair. You don’t take too many pictures with your auntie!

As a Frozen lover, do you hope Elsa will come to the party? “Graydon is already In my in L.A.! He’s got a heart, party to get to. He’s so hands-on that he’s she’ll be helping put the tent there. up.”—Michael Carl

With Joanna Coles

DONNA KARAN

How stressful was it to take over Tommy’s Instagram account for the show?

Excitingly stressful! It’s a massive production.

I took this seriously. I’m German. A little bit of discipline doesn’t hurt me.

Are you a football player yourself?

Growing up, I played tennis and hockey.

I watched the Super Bowl, but I get more interested during the play-offs.

Will you get more Instagram followers after taking over their account?

I have almost the same amount as the brand—about 500,000 followers. This wasn’t about getting my numbers up.

With Jessica Diehl

bfanyc.com (17); getty images (5)

COMEBACK KID ALERT! With Steven Cojocaru Where were you?

The gay witness-protection program. I had some health problems.

I’ve been writing—I saw myself as the Hemingway of West Hollywood. Now I’m going out again, and it’s addictive. I guess I am a spotlight-loving whore!

How’s your health?

It’s wonderful. I had a successful kidney transplant, and I’m off a lot of the medications.

How do you know our EIC, Brandusa?

We’re both insane Romanians.

I like her because she’s real and wonderful. Please give her my warmest love and all the Romanian salutations. I think I’m the crown prince of Romania, but I’m not—I’m probably from some peasant village.

SWEET TALK! With Mary J. Blige

z Bu z Fix

DENNIS BASSO

SCENE

☛ Killer shows from Dennis Basso at Lincoln Center and Milly at Artbeam.

HEARD

☛ “I actually quite obsessively google medical stuff. I’m a selfdiagnosing patient. I don’t like going to the doctor.”—Susie Lau at Thom Browne. ☛ “I just try and not look stupid and try to suck in right under my chin and make myself as thin as possible.”—DJ Mike Nouveau, on his street style pose, at Ovadia & Sons. ☛ “Like always, it’s Katharine Hepburn.”

—Houghton designer Katharine Polk on her inspiration.

PIZZA!

MILLY

You walked in Naomi Campbell’s charity show. Were you nervous?

Mary J. Blige and I was, but I was thinking about Dennis Basso Naomi the whole time I was walking.

What’s the difference between being backstage at a fashion show THE DAILY WONDERS…What’s your favorite band? and a concert?

DJ Mike Nouveau: “The bar with me on the Grammys I’m into Connan Mockasin At a fashion show, all eyes aren’t on me, Clash.” red carpet.” from New Zealand. He makes so I get a chance to have some fun!

Veronica Miele Beard: Devon Windsor: trippy, acid-y, and groovy “I love the Rolling “One Direction is music. He’s great!”

NAUGHTY, NAUGHTY! Stones. I’m sure everyone of the only boy Bryanboy: With Dennis Basso one says that, but they bands I know at the “I’m into What was your theme? are timeless!” moment.”

EDM.” The inspiration was ’70s glamour— Brandon Sun: “Antony Edward Enninful: Dennis women like Marisa Berenson, and the Johnsons because “Fleetwood Mac.” Basso: Catherine Deneuve, and Lee Radzithey always make me Derek Blasberg: “Maroon will, who went from a black-tie super emotional.”

“Is Ricky Martin a 5.” dinner straight to a disco club and Jill Kargman: “Nine Inch band?”

EJ Johnson: “Destiny’s didn’t apologize.

Armand Limnander: Nails.”

Child.”

Did you go to Studio 54?

Kelly Framel: “Dolly Parton, “Bananarama.”

Pamella DeVos: “Bon I was there opening night! We were but more for the glamour Fabien Baron: “LateJovi!” friends with the DJ, Richie Kazar, Maria Cornejo: “Cat Power, than the music.” ly I’ve been listening to the and we kept our coats in the DJ booth.

Julie Henderson: “Haim.” the Black Eyed Peas again. I Drake, and Beyoncé.”

Were you a naughty boy?

Louise Roe: “Arctic MonTomoko Ogura: “Aaliyah. also like classical music.”

Of course! Hello! I was popular! Let’s Nicole Phelps: “Right now keys. They shared a protein I grew up in the ’90s!” not get too much into this…

With Milly’s Michelle Smith Loved all the color!

Girls want to get noticed!

We hear you want some pizza?

I love a classic thin-crust pizza.

I don’t know where I’m going to go in the neighborhood.

Check out Don Giovanni. Any vacation plans?

We’re going to Deer Valley to ski and then Palm Springs. I love the heat!

The music in the show was quite clubby. Were you a club kid?

Not officially, but I used to love going to The Roxy. This place has a sordid past!

CONGRATS! To La Marque’s Valerie Boster

You just got engaged!

It was Valentine’s Day, and Michael surprised me with a suite at The Plaza to order wine, watch films, and have room service. It was the perfect gift because I had been at shows and meetings all day, and I was exhausted. I started crying just from the gesture. Then he got down on one knee. He had asked my mother the night before.

Tell us about the ring!

It’s cushion cut with sapphires and an oxidized platinum band.

Any plans for the wedding?

Maybe in September…somewhere warm and fun, like Tuscany? getty images (9); firstview (3); patrickmcmullan.com (2)

Rebel Heart The look of early ’90s “cool kids” ruled Public School’s Fall ’15 runway. Grace Lee for Maybelline New York achieved the effect by starting with FIT! me Matte + Poreless Foundation, then focusing on the eyebrows with neutral shades of Eye Studio Brow Drama.

She made another nod to the era with a statement lip, created by layering Color Sensational Lip Liner in Plum and Face Studio Master Glaze in Plums Up.

BLOOMINGDALE’S SOUTHAMPTON 53C Jobs Lane

magaschoni.com Daily Front Row Ad 12.indd 1

2/3/15 9:41 PM

z z Bu

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

Gettin’ It Daily!

With Devon Windsor

You’re presumably going to Europe?

I’ll be in Milan and Paris. The food is amazing.

Hopefully it will be a bit warmer, and I can take some time to go around. I haven’t even been to the Louvre yet!

I’m going to turn 21 in Paris.

Happy almost birthday! Are you a typical Pisces?

In some aspects, yes, but in a lot of ways, I’m not.

I’m pretty chill and go with the flow, but I’m also a planner, so it’s weird.

the

Vanessa Friedman

CAROLINA HERRERA

Fix

SWEATING IT OUT! With Fabien Baron

What’s your exercise routine these days?

Every day, I go to the gym for an hour with my trainer at Gotham gym. We do a little bit of boxing and weights. Nothing is the same every day, but it’s hard!

What’s your 3-year-old like?

She’s the sweetest thing.

She’s my fourth child, and I’m enjoying her very much. She’s very calm, easygoing, charming, sweet, and cuddly.

Are you cuddly yourself?

I think I am!

“I haven’t met a chicer woman!

Carolina is so stylish, well-spoken, philanthropic…She’s all women in one! I love her work and always have. It’s America at its best.”

—EDWARD ENNINFUL

front row Editor in Chief, CEO

Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Peter Davis Group Executive Editor

Eddie Roche Deputy Editor

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Editor at Large Ashley Baker Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Contributing Imaging Director George Maier President, Publisher Paul Turcotte

FANNING OUT!

SHOWING SKIN!

Thoughts on the show?

Spectacular! Off the charts! I wore Zac when I won my second Tony for The Assembled Parties. Jack Yeaton, my publicist, helped me pick it out. So many people loved the gown so much that they told me they needed the dress back so they could pattern it.

Let’s talk about your jewelry!

Isn’t it spectacular? It’s all Verdura.

You seem to know everyone here. Are you a fashion girl?

I am! But the truth is that Jack Yeaton made me a fashion girl. He’s really been my teacher.

What’s in your closet now?

A lot of things that Jack would like me to throw out! I have Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, and Oscar de la Renta, but also everyday things, like a beautiful little Ann Taylor sweater that I wore to lunch today with Daryl Roth.

How do you keep in shape?

New York City is my gym! I walk everywhere.

How are you surviving here with bare legs?

Well, you can tell I’m a California girl, but I figured if Coco [Rocha] is doing it, I’m going to do it!

We’re in it together.

Why do you love wearing Zac? He’s so unusual. There’s something that always seemed to be inspired by a dancer, and there’s an elegance and femininity that is very unique; his constructions almost look like they could be ballet costumes. They’re structured so uniquely.

Where are you headed next?

Bibhu Mohapatra’s show, but it’s so cold out, I don’t want to leave the house!

With Christina Hendricks

With Judith Light

ZAC POSEN

FITNESS SECRETS! With Amy Fine Collins

Zac Posen and Rihanna

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

We have to ask, how do you maintain such a trim figure?

Honestly, just dumb luck and good genes, but I do pilates and yoga pretty much every day—extreme acrobatic versions. I was a good little gymnast and dancer when I was younger and I’ve kept it up. I’ll swim and paddle board when it’s warm out.

“Not only is Zac a great designer, but he is an incredible decorator, along with Christopher [Niquet]. You know how he’s all about texture and fabrics? Well, the whole house is incredible. I want to steal his living room!”—Crystal Renn

Account Directors Mark Tevis, Chloe Worden Trade Publications Director Mindy Dorf Outside offices: Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Contributing Marketing Director Stephen McCarthy Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor

To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row

The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

OOPS ALERT! Darling DVF, forgive us. Due to a printer error, yesterday’s issue featured our review of your Fall ’15 collection…with photos from Fall ’14. The perils of publishing a daily glossy, chérie! We have the correct photos in today’s issue—keep reading...

On the cover: b fa n y c . c o m ( 7 ) ; g e t t y i m a g e s ( 9 )

Alana Zimmer in Michael Kors photographed by Giorgio Niro. Hair and makeup by Valery Gherman.

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runway

Fall 2015

DVF Work hard, play hard— such is DVF’s unofficial mantra, and this seduction-themed collection had everything a busy woman needs. New variations on the iconic wrap dress? Check.

Power suits and dress coats? We got those, too.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a classic DVF show without a few other pieces that harken back to her New York beginnings, like a ’70s-style polka dot dress or a couple of sweater vests worn over flouncy button-down dresses.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

GETTY IMAGES

PHOTO BY CLINT SPAULDING FOR PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM DESIGN BY ERENE SEMANDERES AT MARC JACOBS SPRING 2015 SHOW FEATURING BAO BAO HANDBAG BY ISSEY MIYAKE

runway

Fall 2015 tommy

Hilfiger Tommy Hilfiger had a ball with his 30thanniversary collection, which he debuted on a football field constructed in the Park Avenue Armory.

Why not? It was pure Americana as models trotted out in heeled booties that mimicked old football cleats, collegiate letterman sweaters, and campus-ready coats. Touchdown!

Donna

karan New York City’s illuminated skyline was a winning backdrop for this mostly neutral collection, flecked with some standout gold numbers and some lust-worthy shearlings.

If only we had them now!

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

runway

Fall 2015 zac

posen Posen knows how to create the kind of glamour that both little girls and grown women dream of. Pleated silks, body-con frocks, and yes, even a Naomi Campbell moment—the supe closed the show in a metallic ball gown.

tory

Burch La vie bohème!

Woven rugs hung on the walls and blanketed the floor at 583 Park for the Tory Burch show. Jacquard coats emerged in exotic prints, while tunics and caftans pleased Burch loyalists. It was reminiscent of Talitha Getty hanging in Tangiers in the ’70s with Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé at the height of the Bohemia Luxuria moment.

getty images

runway

Fall 2015

3.1 Phillip

lim

Pared-down punk.

There was plenty of plaid for a take on the ’90s trend— perfect for those gals below 14th Street who aren’t feeling the hippie vibe that’s been so pervasive on the runways. It was cool, but not excessively hard-core— merely scented with teen spirit!

brock Husband-and-wife duo Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar debuted their first collection at Fashion Week this season, but they’ve already been featured in Vogue and sell at major luxury retailers like Moda Operandi and Jeffrey. A newborn baby boy had them thinking about luxury, comfort, and warmth—and who can’t get behind that idea?

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

beauty

trend

{Natural Nudes}

GRACE LEE FOR maybelline new york l i m : G E T T Y IM A G E S ; b r o c k : p ete r g o l d m a n

CHIC Must

When

Michael Met Miranda

Michael Kors is among the busiest people in fashion. Just this season, in addition to his usual ready-to-wear collections, he’s opening his biggest store yet in Soho and launching a new sunglass style, the Miranda.

BY PETER DAVIS PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY VICTOR DEMARCHELIER FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY VALERY GHERMAN; MODEL, ALANA ZIMMER Tell us about the Mirandas. What inspired the shape and look?

The hardware details were inspired by our Miranda bag, but the shapes riff off the traditional cat-eye, which I’ve loved since the days of Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor. We just made them a little subtler, a little more modern.

What appeals to you about the name Miranda?

We wanted a very strong but still sexy-sounding name. I like that Miranda feels a little old-school glamorous but also completely modern, and I think the eyewear reflects that blend of vintage and now.

Do you have a favorite Miranda Richardson film?

The Phantom of the Opera. I love a good musical.

Is it ever inappropriate to wear sunglasses?

There are the right sunglasses for every occasion.

Have you ever worn sunglasses in a meeting?

Some conference rooms are sunny!

How many shades does a woman need in her wardrobe?

It all depends on your lifestyle and your attitude, but I’d say at least one pair of aviators, one cat-eye, one that you can wear every day, and one pair that’s full-on oversize, movie-star glamorous.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

You’re known for your aviators. How many pairs of sunglasses do you own?

I must have over 100. I switch them out like other men change their ties.

What excites you most about the new Soho store?

We’re opening our biggest store in the world in the city I call home and presenting my men’s collection fully for the first time here. And we have an amazing shoe salon. We’re taking Broadway in a very broad way.

How is menswear changing in fashion? Who is the Michael Kors guy?

I think men are finally willing to admit that they care about fashion—it’s becoming a part of their culture in a way that it wasn’t before. We’re at a point where most men aren’t wearing a suit every day, and they’re searching for the balance between weekend and work wear, which makes it a fun time to be a designer. The Michael Kors man is sophisticated, successful, and always on the move.

What are you most excited about in 2015?

Traveling to new places for inspiration and continually meeting new fans around the world as I bring my brand to new spots.

“

There are the right sunglasses for every occasion.�

INVESTMENT Strategy

Clockwise from bottom left: Co-founder and chairman Gary Wassner, CFO Eddie Volchko, co-founder and president Cliff Moskowitz, and CEO Melissa Beste

TITANS of LUXURY

Meet the quartet behind InterLuxe Holdings, the private equity firm that aims to be the American version of Kering or LVMH. Gary Wassner, Melissa Beste, Cliff Moskowitz, and Eddie Volchko aren’t just looking to invest in fashion brands in the short term—they’re partnering with designers to provide their industry savvy to grow successful small businesses into viable global brands.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

Why did you decide to form InterLuxe Holdings?

Gary Wassner: After many years of working with fashion brands, financing designers, and watching other investors come into the industry, whether it was European investors, Russian investors, or even American private equity firms, I learned what works and what doesn’t work. We wanted to form a company that would invest with a different perspective than in the past.

Melissa Beste: It’s more of a personal, hands-on approach bringing in industry knowledge, and it’s a true partnership. There are a lot of brands that need money to grow, but it’s also about finding the right brands that know they need the guidance, that you could be true partners with. We develop a mutually aligned road map from where we are to where we mutually want to go to. We bring in the talent, the human resources, the architecture, and the framework on how to get from here to there.

Gary: Each brand has different needs. Some are more sophisticated than others. It’s a partnership in which we provide as much or as little as they as need to realize their own vision and execute their business plan, which is a plan we hope to create together.

Cliff Moskowitz: Most private equity firms don’t have people who are working directly with their investments and their portfolio companies.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Eddie Volchko: Everything we’re doing is to help seek what can be beneficial—it’s not coming in to redirect what they’re doing.

How did you four meet?

Gary: Cliff went to Princeton with my oldest son and has been in private equity for the past 15 years. I needed a partner who could teach me the vocabulary and open the doors to the world of private equity, so that’s how we got together.

Cliff: We spent about a year planning InterLuxe. I had experience making investments in companies, and I knew a little bit about how to help a business grow once you made an investment, but I didn’t know about the fashion world. Gary knew it as well, and had unparalleled relationships, access, and insight.

Melissa: Cliff and I have a mutual friend in common. I was happy in my previous role [as CEO of Akris, Americas] and did not think I would ever leave, but I didn’t know there were roles such as this. It was an opportunity and honor to work with a portfolio of brands, creative directors, and founders to realize their vision.

Eddie: My previous role was as CFO of Derek Lam, who is a client of Gary’s. I joined shortly after the investment with Jason Wu. Jason Wu was your first investment. Why? Cliff: He’s tremendously talented, he’s a great per-

son, and he has a great business with healthy, strong momentum.

What level of investments are you interested in, majority or minority?

Gary: We’re not set on a majority investment. We’re comfortable discussing the level of investment and partnership.

Melissa: I think we also recognize that the brands we’re considering partnering with have achieved success because they are excellent at creation. It is our goal to allow them to focus on that the majority of the time.

Does the size of the brand matter when you’re considering an investment?

Gary: Size is not what we’re looking at first. We do want them to have a certain level of sales to begin with—we wouldn’t work with a start-up at this point.

In which areas do most designers struggle before getting investors?

Gary: Infrastructure—their ability to hire high-caliber, high-level people to support them is affected by their capital restrictions.

Where do you see InterLuxe in the next 10 years?

Gary: Ultimately, we intend to have five or six brands in the platform.

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DREAM Weaver

KNIT

WIT Granted, she was recently named the runner-up in the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund competition, and yes, her company is now flush with a $100,000 grant. But what intrigued us most about Ryan Roche? That splendid last name! BY EDDIE ROCHE

Let’s get right to it. Are you my long-lost sister?

You might be husband’s brother! Roche is my married name. My husband, Garrett, was born and raised in Dublin.

What’s it like to be married to an Irish man?

He has an amazing sense of humor that, 12 years later, I’m still getting used to. Everybody says that I sound Irish because I’ve picked up his accent.

Where did you meet?

I was working at the Costume National store in Soho and he was in town from Dublin, visiting my boss and her husband. It was love at first sight. We spent a week together, and when he went back to Ireland, we spoke on the phone every day. He moved back to New York, and three months later we got married.

Do people mispronounce your last name?

They do! There’s always a little bit of hesitation about how to pronounce it.

It’s more of a French name, so it’s very pretty. The Irish pronounce it more like the bug—it’s a little sharper at the end.

What does it mean?

I should have done my research before this conversation! It doesn’t have anything to do with a color, does it?

Would you like to call a friend?

I’d like to call my husband.

It means rock! Have you ever heard the expression, Mon dieu est ma roche?

My God is my rock.

Bingo! The Roche coat of arms shows a shield with…

Something to do with a horse?

Three fish!

Well, I have three Pisces in my family—my husband, daughter and son.

When I was growing up, I had a golden retriever named Ryan Roche.

Why was it named Ryan?

My sister named her after Ryan from the soap Ryan’s Hope.

That’s why my mom named me Ryan! You know, 97 percent of Ryans are men.

You have dogs as well, correct?

We have Pony, a poodle, and two Rhodesian ridgebacks, Rose and Johanna.

Johanna was my grandmother’s name!

No way!

Now that we’ve sorted that out, congrats on your recent Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund win.

I’m still riding the wave of it. It was definitely an incredible whirlwind. I applied not even knowing if I’d make it into the top 50, so to make it all the way was just beyond. We all poured so much heart and soul into it. The financial aspect has been incredible, but the relationships that I’ve been able to build and

“

the support that I now have is beyond. It feels like my roots in fashion have started to grow.

Who was your biggest advocate on the panel?

Anna [Wintour] reviewed my portfolio and application, and having that initial support gave me confidence. She was just getting to know me, but she saw something in me. Andrew Rosen was incredibly supportive and yet in watching the show, he seemed to be my biggest critic. He and I have had a few conversations since and he said I could call him anytime. They’ve all been so lovely.

You cried a lot on the show!

Initially, it was so emotional. The film crew also likes to pull it out of you and early on, they realized I was easy. Growing up in Idaho, I had no idea you could even have a career in fashion. Isaac Mizrahi’s documentary Unzipped was pivotal to me when I was in high school. My best friend who doesn’t even care about fashion watched it with me 100 times. I wanted to be there.

Will you be crying for us today?

What kind of questions are you going to ask? I’ve toughened up a bit.

We’ll be kind. Kenzo’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are now your mentors.

I’m their first mentee. It’s an incredible gift. They’ve packed boxes, so they’ve been in my shoes and have built up this incredible business.

I can be honest with them.

You’ve been referred to as “the queen of knitwear.” No pressure!

It blows my mind. Those are such huge compliments. I love my work so much, and it’s incredible that people appreciate it.

What’s your aesthetic?

I make clothes that are modern and feminine, with minimal romance. Knitwear has been my heart and soul, but I’m slowly adding in more pieces.

You work and live in upstate New York. What are the pros and cons?

I have lots of space, and it’s affordable. I wake up every morning and look out into a big field.

I’m isolated, but it quiets all the noise and allows me to focus and be productive. We’ve been up there six years and have a really beautiful quality of life. It doesn’t limit me at this point—I’ve just hired two employees who also live upstate—but it might become an obstacle if I want to hire more highly skilled technical designers.

Do you have a cow?

No, but I used to have six goats, 50 chickens, and ducks. They’ve found a new home now.

What’s next?

I want a full lifestyle brand. I see something so big, and people who know me closely and have been in my world really believe in it.

I wake up every morning and look out into a big field. I’m isolated, but it quiets all the noise and allows me to focus and be productive.”

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ; a l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y

CHIC Coif

Tress Talent

Legendary hairstylist Odile Gilbert has worked with every A-list photographer and fashion glossy in the biz. We caught up with Gilbert backstage at Suno—where she dreamed up a slicked-back coif with the help of Kenra Professional—to get the inside scoop on her storied career.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIA CURTO

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

This is your first time working with Kenra Professional. What did you think of the product?

I love the products. They are quite luxurious. It’s a huge line.

How did you create the look?

First, we flat-ironed the hair and used the Kenra Hot Spray 20 to make it really, really flat. On models with curly hair, we used Kenra Platinum Blow Dry Spray to keep it protected. From there, we added the Kenra Volume Mousse 12 to slick back the hair.

Then we combed it back with the Kenra Platinum Texturizing Taffy 13 for the shiny, almost wet look. We also have to keep it very straight in the back, so we used a little bit of the Kenra Platinum Working Spray 14. We blowed it dry to set the product, and then the hair was gathered back into a low ponytail. We took the pointed end of a brush to create the loop and then we fastened it with Suno barrettes. To really hold it all together, we used Kenra Volume Spray 25.

Could we re-create this look on our own?

Of course, but some people are more talented than others! I can always do the hair on someone else, but when I’m doing my own hair, it’s a different story.

Did you always know you wanted to be a hairstylist?

I wanted to travel! I wanted to be into the world of journalism, photography, and beauty. So I went to hair school, and from there, little by little, I began working on films and magazines.

What made you decide to move to New York from Paris in 1982?

Because everybody loves America, you know? I always wanted to be part of America. I wanted to speak English. It was always a dream!

What was your first job in New York?

A shoot with Polly Mellen and Arthur Elgort for Vogue.

Wow! How did that happen?

It happened right away, but I already had a book, because I had been working for magazines in France. I had an agent and everything in Paris as well as in New York.

Was it intimidating shooting with Vogue in New York for the first time?

Yes, of course!

What was Polly like?

A genius, you know. But it was not easy for me to understand her, because she spoke very fast, and my English wasn’t as good as it is now. But I was impressed and a bit scared, of course.

Are you surprised by how much New York has changed since you first arrived in the ’80s?

Yes, because I was living with François Nars in Soho. We moved to New York together, and in Soho, there was nothing there.

There were no stores or fashion boutiques like there are now.

It was really different. But there was a fabulous nightlife scene, because people like Andy Warhol were going out all the time.

It was a more free-spirited time.

Which nightclubs were the hottest?

Area, Limelight…also, people at that time were a bit more eccentric. They were really dressing up to go out.

What would you wear?

We wore wigs, and we were always dressed in Stephen Sprouse.

To get into a nightclub, you had to have a look.

Do you ever experiment with your own hair?

No, because I don’t have time. I’m always doing the shows, and working with models and actresses, but with me it’s very simple. When I work, I always put my hair back. When you are a hairstylist in fashion, you have to kind of forget about yourself!

How many shows are you doing in New York this season?

Seven: Suno, Jason Wu, Thakoon, Rodarte, The Row, Zac Posen, and Altuzarra.

Do you ever disagree with the designers on the direction?

No. The designer will always bring ideas about what they want, and share the story behind their collection. It’s very important to follow their idea, because it’s about their own work.

The first runway show you ever did was for John Galliano in 1994. What was that like?

The were about 50 models and 50 hairstylists, because he was the first one to do one look per model. But I had three weeks to prepare, so it helped.

Which designers give you the most creative freedom with the hair?

John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Karl Lagerfeld.

How long have you known Karl?

About 25 years. I started working with him the season right after I did John Galliano, so it must have been 1995. He’s quite easy to

Odile Gilbert

“

work with, because he knows exactly what he wants. He does so many shows, and he’s very precise.

It’s much easier to work with people who know exactly what they want.

What editorial piece are you the most proud of?

It’s more about the photographers I got to work with, like Peter Lindbergh, Steven Meisel, Paolo Roversi, and so on.

The one I love to work with in America is Bruce Weber. He’s so nice. I’ve tried to work for all the best magazines, you know? Every shoot is different, but of course when you work with all the top models, it’s always a big memory.

What campaigns did you work on for Spring?

I did Balenciaga with Sasha Pivovarova and Steven Klein. It’s quite beautiful. I did very straight hair and a middle part on Sasha. I did the Chanel beauty campaign with Diane Kruger, and I also did the Chanel foundation beauty campaigns with Gisele that were shot by Peter Lindbergh. I did the Bulgari campaign with Carla Bruni and the Louis Vuitton handbag campaign with Michelle Williams.

Who has the best hair in the business?

Gisele and Linda Evangelista. But you know, if models don’t have good hair, we make it happen.

Which celebrities do you work with?

I take care of Marion Cotillard and Cate Blanchett, usually for the red carpet, and I’ve cut Tilda Swinton’s hair for six years. I also cut Sofia Coppola’s hair. I also worked on Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette. I did Kirsten Dunst’s hair, specifically. She was heaven to work with.

Did you create wigs for the film?

No, those weren’t wigs! Those were just extensions.

What do you love to do when you are in New York?

I just love to get a pedicure and manicure. I’m not kidding!

Because in Europe, we don’t have as many nail places as you have in America. I take care of myself.

It’s much easier to work with people who know exactly what they want.”

Suno Fall 2015

This is Kenra Professional’s first foray into NYFW, but watch out for more from the brand next season!

CRAZY Confessions

SECRETS FROM THE ASSISTANT FILES Whether they’re referred to as gatekeepers or the right-hands, assistants are the cogs that keep the fashion machine running. All year long, FashionWeekDaily.com gets to know the young faces from Condé, Hearst, SoulCycle, Anna Sui, and everywhere in between, and their talents certainly extend far beyond fetching coffee. Behold their juiciest secrets! BY DENA SILVER

“

I have no scandalous stories from Interview!

Although I could tell you all about getting Anna Wintour’s coffee a few years ago…”

—Rachel Small, assistant to Interview’s Keith Pollock and Christopher Bollen

“Sometimes I’m such a Condé Nast executive assistant: calling cars, scheduling things, and e-mailing Chuck Townsend’s assistant. Sometimes I go get Adam coffee—more often than not, we walk to the coffee shop together.

There are times when I feel we have a roommate relationship.”

—Amiel Stanek, assistant to Bon Appétit’s Adam Rapoport

“I think that us working together was meant to be.

We have this relationship where if one of us doesn’t have something, the other one has it.”

—Veronica Vera, assistant to Lola Rykiel, Sonia Rykiel’s director of communications

“

She’s a total regular at the Lobby Lounge at the Mandarin Oriental!

I’m, like, best friends with the manager of the restaurant. It’s really nice having a place that you can walk to in 15 minutes, especially in tall heels.”

“

Expenses are not fun, but I do them at an hour when no one is in the office.

I blast techno music and type everything into that system. It’s the only way to do it.”

—Gillian Sagansky, assistant to W’s Stefano Tonchi

“I organize schedules for 12 editors during NYFW and six for MFW. Europe is particularly difficult, because I have to wake up when the editors wake up and I have a full day of work. I’ve had to come into the office at 3 a.m. before.”

—EJ Briones, assistant to InStyle’s Eric Wilson

—Cotton Codinha, assistant to ELLE’s Robbie Myers

“

Before I started, they really needed an assistant. I sent Beth and Rebecca thankyou notes after my job interview.

When I was two weeks into the job, Beth told me that she’d just read my thank-you card!”

—Nicole Glogau, assistant to Rebecca Taylor and the brand’s co-owner, Beth Bugdaycay FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“There’s nothing I hate more than working with people who harp on what could have been. So many amazing shoots happen with limited resources.

Ultimately when you open up the magazine, the reader doesn’t know the prop stylist canceled or that 83 trunks went missing.”

—Solange Franklin, assistant to stylist Giovanna Battaglia

“I’ve definitely gotten the courage to go in to Kevin and tell him my point of view. Kevin does his homework, and he has four sons who fill him in on what’s cool.

But I don’t think his sons are shopping at Sephora or going out.”

—Alexa Cohen, assistant to ELLE’s Kevin O’Malley

“I deal with pretty much everything for Pat. When I come to the office in the morning, the first thing I do is clean her desk and dump the ashtrays. I take care of her dog, and I help her with anything from medical taxes to personal finances.

I also deal with all the phone calls, e-mails, and projects for Pat, plus scheduling time for work and friends on her personal calendar and business calendar.”

—Rosey Vaughan, assistant to Patricia Field

“Normally, there’s an executive assistant who just controls his boss’s schedule, calendar, and travel. I do all of that, but I also pitch in on Fern’s upcoming Rizzoli book, called Fashion Lives: Fashion Icons With Fern Mallis. I help her with content for her radio show and her 92Y interviews, too. And I assist with social media. Basically, I do everything for her.”

—Sam Woolf, assistant to Fern Mallis

“

Oh yeah, the fans send weird things to Andy. I’ve gotten a lot of paintings of him over the years. Once, a woman made this doll of Andy out of cotton and human hair. It was very, very interesting.”

Sofia: “I love Julie’s daughters. They’re like my little sisters. It would be weird if I didn’t do any personal stuff for Julie; I feel like I wouldn’t know her.”

Danielle: “We’ll order in and work through lunch, but then we’ll go to the studio and take a class. That’s the greatest lunch break. We come back to our desks sweaty, but it’s totally worth it.”

—Sofia Langan and Danielle Axman, assistants to SoulCycle’s cofounders Elizabeth Cutler and Julie Rice

“No one wears jeans in the office. That’s not part of Misha’s aesthetic at all. We all try to be little brand ambassadors and take it upon ourselves to save our jeans for the weekend.”

—Daryn Carp, assistant to Andy Cohen

“Eva doesn’t really drink a lot of coffee, but she drinks a lot of tea. On busy days, she’ll ask me to get ‘her drink.’ It’s always a big, long, complicated order that’s really embarrassing, but the people at Starbucks always know what to expect when I come in.”

—Kristie Dash, assistant to Lucky’s Eva Chen

“

Basically everyone here is a crazy cat lady.

Also, Beyoncé is a very serious thing.”

—Tess Koman, assistant to Cosmopolitan.com’s Amy Odell

—Grace Hwang, assistant to Misha Nonoo “I’ve worked here for 26 years, so obviously we’re very close.

But it’s not like she’s one of those people who needs her assistant on the weekend. Although, sometimes we will attend events socially together, like we went to see Phoenix.”

—Thomas Miller, assistant to Anna Sui

“

JA has an impeccable memory and nothing ever slips his mind… ever! Months will pass and he’ll bring up something that I’ve completely forgotten.”

—Lauren Moger, assistant to Jonathan Adler

giorgio niro (20); stefania curto; RYAN LIU; BFANYC.COM (9); GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK; PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; COURTESY

DESIGN Duo

“

Our line is also a platform for us.”

Stefani Greenfield and Desiree Gruber

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Theodora & Callum’s Next

Frontier

Prints perfection! Theodora & Callum, started by Full Picture’s Desiree Gruber and longtime pal Stefani Greenfield, has grown beyond its signature supersoft, vibrant scarfs to include other accoutrements, more affordable offerings via the T+C line, plus some extremely adorable pintsize clothes out this spring in luxe kids’ catalog Chasing Fireflies. We’ll let Gruber and Greenfield, friends of nearly two decades, take it away…

BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV photography by giorgio niro What’s new, ladies? we buy our prints, but we don’t—we create them. We all Stefani Greenfield: We’re going into our fifth year of Theodora & Callum! There speak in shorthand; certain colors are on- or off-brand. Our are very few people in life you can work with, play with, and even feel like you graphic designer translates what’s going on in our heads. can live with—Desiree and I have that relationship. We both travel all over the Like what? world, so Theodora & Callum’s urban gypsy accessory concept made perfect Stefani: Oh, the other day Desiree showed me a hibiscus sense. Our pieces retail between $155 and $295; you can only flower on her bracelet; I’ll talk about touch so many people at that price point. the imprint a wrought-iron gate Desiree Gruber: Our line is also a platform for us. Right now makes in the sand—it’s very organic! we have a scarf out with Barbra Streisand to benefit heart Have you done anything at NYFW? disease, which is the No. 1 killer of women.

Desiree: We did a Project Runway Stefani: Our customers buy new pieces consistently— challenge, which was natural for our brand.

I joke that we’re like the print-of-the-month club. We’re with What’s new with Project Runway, since our customers for the most fantastic moments in their lives: you’re an executive producer? honeymoons, vacations in St. Bart’s, fabulous barbecues.

Desiree: Season 14 will start filming Why did you start T+C? soon; we’re very excited about that. I can’t Stefani: We’ve done Today, and Julia Roberts picked us for believe it’s been 14 seasons! the last-ever Oprah’s Favorite Things, and we were getting You’re successful businesswomen— so many reactions on Instagram and Facebook saying, “Oh, I what’s the best advice you’ve been wish I could afford it!” We met Drew Pizzo at Collection XIIX, given? one of the largest accessory manufacturers in the massive Desiree: I think about failure a lot, and mid-tier market. He was obsessed with what we did, so T+C how to move through something not going came about. your way. I like that Henry Ford quote: “If you How long has the line been around? think you can, you’re right. If you think you Stefani: It’s our launch year. We’re on our first selling can’t, you’re right.” So I always think I can. season, and the end of 2015 will be the end of our first What kind of expansions can we expect shipping season. The only difference between Theodora & in the future?

Callum and T+C is price point. We have scarves, caftans, Desiree: Swimwear, which would be a very Fight the LadyKiller scarf dresses, scarf tops, hats, and jewelry. Now, between natural progression, maybe the lines, our prices range from $28 to $295. We didn’t sandals, and home goods.

Wearable Art Gauze Scarf dumb anything down; it’s an additional collection. No one is Stefani: Home is my excluded from the brand! personal obsession. I’ve made a career out of Where is T+C sold? clothes, accessories, shoes, bags, and Desiree: Dillard’s, Lord & Taylor, Bon-Ton—stores that have more of a mass jewelry—but I really love home. When appeal. It’s also available on our website.

I wake up in the morning, I go to You also make kids’ clothes now, right?

1stdibs.com.

Stefani: Yes, we have a licensing deal with Chasing Fireflies, a gorgeous upscale Remind us: How did you two children’s catalog and website. We got the cover of their April catalog. For me, meet? that’s like me being on the Sports Illustrated cover!

Stefani: It was in late ’96, at my How did Theodora & Callum for Chasing Fireflies come about? first Scoop store, in Soho. I think we Desiree: I told them I was a fan; we talked about what we could do together. met in the dressing room. Desiree was Stefani: It’s crazy cute, and has the same ethos as Theodora & Callum—freeshopping with her mom at Scoop—a mutual spirited, colorful, internationally inspired, clever, and really pretty. We always friend had told her to come in. Desiree just say, start them young! There’s a whole phenomenon with celebrity kids—people had this radiance about her. are obsessed now more than ever with the “mommy and me” thing. We’ve made Your friendship turns 20 next year— some kids’ designs for some celebrity friends and for our kids before—I have an how will you celebrate?

8-year-old girl, Theodora, and Desiree has an 8-year-old boy, Callum. Our kids Stefani: We celebrate all the time! see this as their brand; we go to work and it feels like they’re always with us.

Desiree: We talk about going Theodora was gobsmacked she didn’t get to be in the catalog! back to Morocco, where we’ve Desiree: Sarah Jessica Parker has had her kids in our designs; people love them. traveled together before.

The line is solely for girls currently. Any plans to make it co-ed?

How are you as travel Stefani: For Fall, we’ll have boys’ clothes as well. It’ll have a surfer/mini rock star/ companions?

Euro-prep look, with our prints and colors and a lot of graphics, but it’ll be boyStefani: We’re hard-core in friendly. We’ll show it to Callum first—he’s choosy! business, but we’re also hardWhat’s your design process like? core about enjoying life. We like Stefani: A team of four of us work on the design process. People ask where to have a good time!

STILLS: COURTESY

UNI-sexy

Baja Fresh

Bohemia Luxuria is all the rage at Baja East, John Targon and Scott Studenberg’s self-proclaimed “ambisexual” line that can be worn by both men and women and is designed to be tossed in a bag for a trip to Bali, Baja, or Berlin. From their Chelsea atelier, the Baja boys talk men in skirts, the true definition of ambisexual, and reveal some major news.

BY PETER DAVIS

Scott Studenberg and John Targon

Call me a prude, but what exactly does ambisexual mean?

John Targon: A lot of people use the word androgynous, which we don’t really agree with. When a guy is wearing the clothes, it’s quite masculine, and when a girl is wearing them, it’s quite feminine. It’s just the matter of sizing and attitude, as well as styling.

Scott Studenberg: It’s all about the confidence and the person who is wearing it.

I’m wearing a skirt right now, and I don’t look like a girl.

We love a man in a skirt.

Scott: A guy could wear it with Nikes and a T-shirt, and a girl could throw it on with an oversize sweater and some diamonds.

Are guys outside of fashion capitals like New York and London ready to sport skirts?

John: Yes! Scott is wearing one from our Pre-Fall collection, and it’s something you will see on the runway again. We did a skirt that looks, well, not necessarily like a kilt, but from the back, it appears to be tied around the waist. It’s not long and dramatic, per se. But our thing isn’t just to make it look like a skirt but like another piece of clothing. It’s like you just left the beach and are wearing it with Nikes, which is very city and athletic.

How did you two meet and start Baja East?

Scott: We’ve been best friends for a really long time, and we worked alongside each other with rivaling French brands. We always wanted to do something on our own, and then we finally got the balls to do it. We met at a gym class first. Maybe we need to come up with a new scenario, like it was a bathhouse in Paris or something.

A bathhouse? Scandale! Are you sure you’re not a couple?

John: We’re really not dating. We swear to God. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

But you do live together.

Scott: We live and work from a two-bedroom apartment in Chelsea. We see each other all the time. We’re a true start-up!

Super cozy! How do people tell you apart?

John: When we do phone interviews, reporters always get our quotes mixed up.

Scott: John has a dancer’s body.

John: I’m shorter, paler, and sweeter.

Scott: I’m taller, darker, and meaner.

How do you feel now that you’re going into your second season?

Scott: There’s no way we would be in the place that we are in today if we didn’t learn everything from our old bosses, companies, and everyone we worked with. We both wanted to be more creative, and we’ve learned a lot on the sales end of things, as far as distribution, sales strategy, and merchandising a collection. It’s funny—you know, the design part was new to us, but we learned so much, and that’s been exciting and fun. When we design the collection we think of the salespeople on the floor, and who they are going to sell that piece to.

Baja East feels like a lifestyle brand. Where do you see your future?

John: Retail is one of our biggest dreams, especially the opportunity to create a space that showcases our ambisex concept and world of Baja East. Being New York boys, we have developed a particular love for this city and its development.

We are excited to announce that we will open our first retail project in conjunction with Seaport Studios—it’s a concept shop that will showcase our Fall ’15 collection. We will curate the space and have some exciting ideas for the summer launch!

FIRST VIEW (5); COURTESY

BFA

BILLY FARRELL AGENCY

images matter. bookings@bfanyc.com 212.924.4250 @bfa_nyc

left to right, top to bottom: shanae nae/ bfanyc.com the blonds aw1 4 presented by madefw / jesse lirola / bfanyc.com alexander wang ss14 show / matteo prandoni/ bfanyc.com giovanna battaglia and friends at the paramount hotel’s diamond horse / neil rasmus/ bfanyc.com kate spade ny fall 2014 / joe schildhorn/ bfanyc.com zac posen fall 2013 / jesse lirola/ bfanyc.com rodarte fw14 runway show / madison mcgaw/ bfanyc.com vfiles made fashion after party / joe schildhorn/ bfanyc.com zac posen fall 2013 / matteo prandoni/ bfanyc.com purple fashion magazine dinner

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digital Domination

match made in heaven

When Tom and Ruth Chapman founded MatchesFashion in 1987, they had no idea it would turn into the mega retailer it is today. In 2006, the couple began venturing into e-commerce and they can now count themselves among the top luxury e-tailers in the business.

BY PAIGE REDDINGER How did you start MatchesFashion?

Tom Chapman: Well, we were first a brick-andmortar business—we’ve been around for almost 30 years. We have 14 physical stores. We started in a small residential area of London, Wimbledon Village.

When you start out that way, it really teaches you to hug your customer and answer them in a personal, individual way. That’s been the DNA of the business since the beginning. We launched online in 2006, and it was the same conversation. From the beginning, we knew that it would be a fully international e-commerce site. I suppose this sounds naive, but we didn’t realize how fast the e-commerce would grow and how important a part of a business it would become.

What were you doing before your retail careers?

Ruth Chapman: I worked at a video company, among other things.

Tom: I was in the catering industry.

Opening a retail store now is completely different than it was 30 years ago. You could be a little bit more gung-ho back

Spring 2015 looks from Raey

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

“

Our edit has always had a strong fashion flavor, and we’ve kept that DNA.”

then—it was much easier to start out.

Any plans for a store in New York?

Tom: Right now, we have a massive opportunity to really talk to our customers and understand their originality through our online business. We deliver to the East Coast within 36 hours of ordering, and we’re aspiring to deliver within 24 hours. We are not a U.K. business—we are a global business. But we walk around the city and point out locations that we like!

How do you stay competitive in a crowded arena?

Ruth: Our edit has always had a strong fashion flavor, and we’ve kept that DNA. An online site can come across looking like a department store, if that’s what you want, but we aim not to do that.

Tom: We’re more than luxury shopping—it’s really about a modern approach to brands.

How do you merchandise your brick-andmortar store versus the website?

Ruth: We buy inventory for the whole of the business, and then we think about the stores and how they are going to look, and what will resonate there.

Our customer comes to us for that discovery and those talkingpoint pieces.

How do you find new designers?

Ruth: Lots of ways. I worked with NewGen in London with the British Fashion Council, and we also discover them when we travel. We get lots of lookbooks sent to us, and our buying director is very good at seeing new brands as well.

Tom: We’re like sponges, and we have a real willingness to listen to whomever we are talking to, be it the press or others in the fashion industry.

Ruth: Also, we are always looking at Instagram—that’s a powerful way to find new brands.

Which designers have you recently discovered?

Ruth: Marques Almeida, the denim brand in London. We launched them a couple of years ago, and it’s been a great

success. We’ve also picked up Joe Richards, Trager Delaney, and Ellery from Australia. We picked up Wes Gordon in New York, and I recently went to Berlin as well.

You have a new in-house line called Raey, right?

Ruth: We always had our own line called Freda for women. It was always basic, simple, and pared-back pieces that you could wear with more elaborate designer items. It sells well, but we really wanted to launch menswear, and the name Frida didn’t work for men. We also wanted to revamp the women’s, so we got a new creative team behind it. The most important part was that the price architecture had to be really smart—most of the dresses, for example, are less than $400.

Your delivery packaging is beautiful, and the service is incredibly fast. Is that expensive?

Ruth: Yes, but people love it, and it’s become part of our brand. We’ve launched eco-friendly packaging, and now the customer will have that option. But it goes back to conveying the store experience online.

You also produce women’s and men’s magazines.

Is that de rigueur for retailers these days?

Ruth: Our magazine was never launched as a fashion magazine; it was launched as a showcase of our edit for the season for our customer.

Tom: It is segmented to the consumer, or it could be ordered online. You can request it online, and this year, we are printing in the U.S. as well. It’s in five-star hotels, private jets…the list is endless.

Given the size of your operation, what’s the toughest part about running your business?

Tom: We have more than doubled the number of people who work for us—we went from around 200 to 400 in a year. When you’re growing and moving so fast, communication is probably one of the most challenging aspects.

Ruth: If we’re not leading people well, they won’t understand our expectations.

What’s your favorite part of the business?

Ruth: First, being able to engage with such amazing product and seeing that develop and change. I also love the fact that we are in such a dynamic business.

I’m always thinking about what’s next.

Tom: For me, it’s learning. I’ve got a lot of experience, but every day, I learn something new.

Ruth: We get to hire people who are smarter than us!

That’s what makes it work.

A L L P H O T O S co u rt e sy

#BIZ WITH

STYLE “We prepare our students by constantly adapting our program to meet the needs of employers.

From omni-channel retailing to social media marketing to global product lifecycle management, they’re ready.”

Joshua Williams Chair, Fashion Department

Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/Fashion or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu

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P4597.8.2014

P4597.8.2014

MUSE Moment

Ciara, Partout

Impeccably dressed songstress Ciara has pretty serious fashion cred. To wit: She’s tight with Italo Zucchelli, Riccardo Tisci, and Peter Dundas. She filled us in on her catwalk debut, loving motherhood, and her new album dropping this spring. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV

Ciara at the Heart Truth Red Dress show; at the 2015 Grammys

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

You were at our Fashion Los Angeles Awards! How did you and Italo Zucchelli first meet?

We met in Milan when I went to his shows two years ago. We automatically clicked! We have a very genuine connection. The [FLAs] were so great!

What does Italo think of your music?

Italo and I actually had a “listening party” in my car.

We literally sat there for, like, an hour in sunny L.A. and pumped the music so loud. I sang along, and Italo was really grooving to it! He was so happy.

What’s your new album, #JACKIE, like?

I named the album after my mom, because I see the world through her eyes now that I’m a mom. It’s my best body of work. I’m in the most clear place in my life, and that pours into the music. I kept it small and tight in terms of producers; I wanted it to sound consistent. I worked with Dr. Luke and a few other producers.

You filmed a video in NYC on Friday…

It was for my first single on the album, “I Bet.” I did things I’ve always wanted to do in the video, style-wise and performance-wise. I had a vision!

On Thursday, you walked in the Heart Truth Red Dress show. Was it your runway debut?

Yes! It was totally out of my comfort zone, but modeling is still a form of entertaining.

We saw you at Polo’s presentation, too...

I love Polo. When I was young, I’d rack up on Polo—and now I’ve dined with Mr. Ralph. It’s crazy!

Anything else on the docket?

I have plans to go to Paris; it’s just a matter of timing.

What was your first fashion show?

Donatella [Versace] flew me to Milan for Versace nine

Kim Kardashian, Stephen Gan, Karl Lagerfeld, Carine Roitfeld, Riccardo Tisci, and Ciara at Roitfeld’s birthday bash at PFW last October

and a half years ago. It was a big deal! I had dinner at Donatella’s house, where I had a really great conversation with Elton John.

You’re pals with Riccardo Tisci, Italo Zucchelli too… and Ciara at the I met Riccardo in Brazil six years FLAs last month ago—he invited me to perform for him at Fashion Rocks Rio. We bonded so, so strongly. We’re really like family. I call him Papa Ricky, Uncle Ricky…we’re brothers, we’re sisters, we’re everything in one!

What are your favorite fashion memories with Riccardo?

One of my favorite moments was the VMAs [in 2013]. I wore a see-through Ciara with her son, Givenchy Couture dress. When I Baby Future saw it on the runway, I freaked out!

Riccardo said, “Don’t worry, I’ll make it work for you.” He always delivers.

Has Papa Ricky designed anything for your son, Baby Future, yet?

No, but when Riccardo designed Nikes last year, I got the first pair of baby shoes produced for the line.

How’s motherhood treating you?

Oh, my goodness. It’s changed my life, period. My son is the greatest, sweetest gift God has given me. The word responsibility has a whole new meaning. My son arriving has changed how I keep pushing myself as a woman—and a businesswoman. I’m like, “Baby’s gotta eat!” I hustle even harder; I have a clearer purpose in life.

Back to fashion: Who are your other designer pals?

I’m friends with Pucci’s Peter Dundas. I adore him; he is such a kind soul. Anthony Vaccarello is my good friend, too; he’s so humble and cool.

You know a lot of designers! Who do you want to befriend next?

I’d love to meet Alaïa. I’ve met Stella [McCartney], but I haven’t worked with her yet. Oh, and Karl Lagerfeld! My very first big photo shoot was with Karl. It was years ago, for V magazine, and Karl was the photographer.

Any desire to have your own line one day?

It’s definitely on my bucket list. I wouldn’t take it lightly. I’d want to make it something that could last forever. bfanyc . co m ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 3 ) ; co u rtesy