FEBRUARY 7–9, 2017
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50 THE
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FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
giambattista valli Spring 2017 Couture
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HOW INSIDER ARE YOU ANYWAY?
Do you know your Irina from your Shanina, your Stellas from your Bellas, your HBA from your DNA? Take the test! By ashley baker PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN TACHMAN
A. Stefano Sassi’s trusted deputy B. The EIC of Vogue Italia and L’Uomo Vogue C. The guy doing damage control for Lapo Elkann D. The new face of Berluti
2. What was your dear Daily doing at Art Basel Miami Beach? A. Taking selfies with Natasha Poly and Jordan Barrett B. Hosting a killer party at the Faena C. Publishing a sublime issue of The Daily Miami Beach D. All of the above
3. In her couture debut for Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew upon Mr. Dior’s love of…
12. Which intriguing designer is championing a “men’s couture moment”?
7. In her own words, why is Alexandra Shulman stepping down?
A. Margiela’s John Galliano B. Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver C. Thom Browne D. Haider Ackermann
A. “I’m planning to pursue other interests” B. “I’m afraid that corporate publishing no longer holds the same appeal” C. “I realized that I very much wanted to experience a different life and look forward to a future separate to Vogue” D. “I’ve learned that it’s better to quit when you’re ahead”
8. Which hot accessories brand is moving into ready-to-wear?
A. Greenery and gardens B. Marie Antoinette in her Petit Trianon period C. Shakespearean themes of conflict and resolution D. His sister Catherine, a member of the French Resistance
A. Edie Parker B. Aquazzurra C. Mansur Gavriel D. Sophia Webster
4. What’s the name of Linda Fargo’s new shop at Bergdorf Goodman?
A. A 15-piece collaboration with Coach B. A move to get all gown prices to be less than $5K C. A small-scale presentation of F17 in Paris D. A move to show upcoming seasons on the couture schedule
A. Linda’s B. Fargo’s Place C. Silver Foxy’s D. LF at BG
5. Which of the following is not true about newly minted Vuitton collaborator Supreme? A. It was established in downtown NYC in 1996 B. It’s largely responsible for all those cool kids lined up next to Café Colombe on Lafayette C. Its logo was inspired by Barbara Kruger’s art D. Its new releases sell out immediately and go for serious bank on eBay
6. Which of the following headlines has not appeared recently on Vogue.com? g e t t y i m a g es ( 3 )
C. Is it Wrong to Sleep With Someone for a Story? D. She’s So Petty: A Defense of Small-Scale Theft
A. It’s Inauguration Day: How Getting High Could Be the Secret to Surviving a Trump Presidency B. Make America a Golden Shower Again? A Professional Dominatrix Weighs In
9. What’s not happening chez Rodarte?
10. Who is Philipp Plein? A. A Swiss horlogier B. A German designer C. Vladimir Putin's personal trainer D. Jared Kushner’s yogi
11. How did new Marc Jacobs muse Frances Bean Cobain describe the darling designer? A. “My lord and savior” B. “A dreamer, a friend, a soulmate” C. “An underdog for the masses” D. “The only person who can make America great again”
13. How old is Millie Bobby Brown, the new face of Raf-revamped Calvin Klein? A. 3 B. 12 C. 9 D. 6
0–5 correct responses: YOU ARE…KATIE HOLMES You used to be an NYFW staple—who could forget your short-lived foray into fashion design? Don’t abandon us now, chérie—hit the shows, memorize your Daily, ogle our Insta, and the masses will applaud your return.
6–9 correct responses: YOU ARE…KATIE COURIC You’ve been on the front lines of the front row for centuries—and as we enter into 2017, you’ve got even grander designs on world domination. A little brush up never hurt. Our archives are on Issuu!
10–13 correct responses: YOU ARE…KATIE GRAND You’re so insider, we’re calling you for the hautest scoops. Revel in it, gorgeous! ANSWERS: 1. B; 2. D; 3. A; 4. A; 5. A; 6. D; 7. C; 8. C; 9. B; 10. B; 11. C; 12. C; 13. B
1. Who is Emanuele Farneti?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO Laura Brown
THE DAILY WONDERS… WHAT’S THE LAST THING YOU BOUGHT?
Deputy Editor My South Eddie Roche Korean Executive Editor maltese. Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Design Director An Altuzarra shearling. Jill Serra Wilde Wine. Worth it! Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Venti latte, A Flora scarf Kristen Heinzinger extra shot. from Gucci. Associate Editor Sydney Sadick Art Director Magdalena Long Designer Sean Talbot Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier
@emrata
SCENE
Chers fashionettes (and –ets!), so much has changed since we saw you in September—it really does feel like we’re all inhabiting a brave new world, n’est-ce pas? But enough gravitas: In Dailyland, we’re all about the joie of fashion, and our New York designers are destined to bring it. From TOMMY’s Los Angelean extravaganza to a new day dawning at Calvin, the week is sure to serve up some shakeups, surprises, and moments of magic. Now let’s do this!
Chloë Sevigny
Mark Tevis Publisher
Marie-Amélie Sauvé
parties parties
PARTIES!
Your attendance is requireD AT…
1. Laura Brown’s welcome-to-InStyle
bash at the Carlyle, hosted by Emily Ratajkowski and Virgil Abloh
Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham My unicorn shoes—sparkly pumps from Dolce & Gabbana, complete with pink fur.
RETOUCHED BY AN ANGEL!
What if…Melania Trump and Anne Fulenwider switched looks?
GUESS WHOSE MOUTH? Which designer darling is behind these saucy mots?
2.
The ELLE + E!/Esquire Network + IMG Fashion party and Andy Warhol exhibition, DJ’ed by Soo Joo Park
3.
Miu Miu’s screening of Carmen, a new film by Chloé Sevigny
1
“I’m a kind of fashion nymphomaniac who never gets an orgasm.”
“When I come home, I take off all my clothes and I wear no clothes until I leave. I eat naked. I do everything completely naked.”
3
4.
The launch party for Mastermind magazine, hosted by Marie-Amélie Sauvé and Bookmarc. Neville alert!
THINGS TO DISCUSS! Raf’s Calvin debut, évidemment. Whom should we expect in the front row, aside from that 12-year-old star of Stranger Things? • Riccardo! • Naomi Campbell’s Gap ads. Who says the '90s trend is over? • Le drame at Ralph. Stefan, darling, dinner’s on us. • Those vacancies atop the mastheads of T and British Vogue.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
A trip to the Four Seasons Papagayo.
“Indifference is the greatest aphrodisiac...”
4
Has your father gotten his hands on your hoodies? He has, and he loves them! But he’s not really a sweatshirt kind of guy. We were having dinner the other night, and he came down in his blue hoodie and said, “Man, this is comfortable.” How do you describe his personal style? Whatever my mom tells him to wear! [Laughs] No, he actually has pretty good style. Dad is known for his suits, but he loves a good blazer with a sweater inside, and he loves to pop his collar. 1. Karl Lagerfeld; 2. Rick Owens; 3. Tom Ford; 4. Vivienne Westwood
getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images. Artwork featured in the logo was created by MOMO for LIFEWTR.
YOU DON’T KNOW JOE!
With Ashley Biden, who is kicking off her new LLC, Livelihood, with a hoodie collaboration with Gilt, Gilt x Livelihood.
Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
On the cover:
“The sexiest people are thinkers.”
2
Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy
gett y i m a ges ( 1 0 ) ; p a t r i c k m c mu l l a n . c om ; shutte r sto c k ( 1 )
Soo Joo Park
Series 1 Art by MOMO / Craig & Karl / Jason Woodside
© 2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Introducing LIFEWTR. Inspiration on the outside. Hydration on the inside. Discover our Series 1 artists at LIFEWTR.COM
FUN FACT !
Later, peeps!
we hear Karl Templer’S brekky of choice is an Egg McMuffin.
scene
We hear that a life of (relative) leisure is not suiting one of our favorite Italian stallions. Which yacht-loving silver fox is expected to return to his namesake company in a very big way? Watch this space! • Mansur Gavriel is launching ready-to-wear this week. Wonder what Maryam Nassir Zadeh thinks… • And PROENZA SCHOULER is moving its show to Paris. JACK, LAZ, we suppose we'll get over this eventually.
LUNCH BREAK!
With Linda Wells
You just wrote an article on Mary Tyler Moore. Were you a fan? She was the person we all wanted to be. I wanted to move to Minneapolis–Saint Paul, and have that wardrobe and great apartment and all those friends…and laugh the legendary Abbey Road Studios. all day at work! In some ways, that’s what Your Instagram account is a great mix I get to do. of personal photos and fine art and Where do you lunch these days? photography. Who are some of your Usually I eat at my desk, but I can’t say favorite fine artists? that’s where I like to eat. There’s a John Baldessari, Matisse, Picabia, Helmut really cool place called Tía Pol on 10th With CLARA Newton, and Man Ray. Avenue and 22nd Street, and there’s McGREGOR If you could star in a biopic about a little place in Chelsea Market that Love your new Fay campaign. the life of any artist… has amazing fish tacos. I like odd, What was it like to work with Mary I would love to make a film about the tucked-away places. McCartney? life and works of Vivian Maier. She was Who do you think should be Absolutely incredible. Not only is she a brilliant street photographer in the next editor of British hugely talented, she was also very fun to ’50s, but her work was discovered Vogue? work with. The campaign is gorgeous—she decades after she passed. Katie Grand is a really captured this awesome collection, and also good choice. BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE DAILY X LIFEWTR How are you dealing with all the scary news that’s been coming out The Daily of Washington? Wonders… I deliberately have to Which hotly discussed European put on blinders and stop creative director (who is now watching, because it is so HEARD working in New York) has been disturbing and frightening. spending some quality time This season’s spin on Stuart “It’s so I don’t even know how to with his entourage at Weitzman’s stocking boot is energetic and process it. I’ve become Flaming Saddles? finished with a pointed toe and a open-minded, and totally preoccupied with block heel. Crafted from signature they’re really reading body language. stretch leather, stretch velvet, and supportive. It’s a I want to be thoughtful; great place to be.” I don’t want to add to satin—a top trend for the season— these streamlined the wreckage. It’s a tough —Linda wells, mid-calf boots moment. on The Cut were designed for a flawless fit. Pair with everything from cropped trousers to full midi skirts. $575, stuartweitzman.com
FASHION’S MOST INSPIRED!
Proenza Schouler
SHOE OF THE DAILY
“LOOK, I was backstage—the collection sucks. It’s all t-shirts!”
daily doubles
—A jaded 14-year-old kid backstage at NYFW:M Kate Lanphear
PROMOTION
Ken Downing
PROMOTION
BOLD BROWS
Some days, you’re aiming to create drama with standout eyes that go on…and on…and on. But when you’re making a mad dash from the office to the show to the cocktail party and back again, a more low-maintenance regime is appreciated. An alwayswinning look: a single layer of mascara and a natural, full brow, as seen at Brock Collection’s Spring ’17 show. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Brow Precise Fiber Volumizer Mascara ($9.99), maybelline.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PRO TIP: To amp up the drama, opt for a slightly darker shade.
COVER 411
Loving le look of your dear Daily’s latest cover? The logo art was created by MOMO, the pseudonym for the famed artist. In addition to his epic murals— which have graced the likes of the Ace Hotel in Palm Springs—wall paintings, and exhibitions, he has also partnered with PepsiCo’s new luxury LIFEWTR brand that fuses creativity and design to revolutionize the bottled-water category.
g e t t y i m a g e s ( 9 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 1 ) ; s h u t t er s t o c k ( 6 )
HEARD
S:10.25”
S:13”
©2017 Maybelline LLC.
THE FOSTERS TAKE FASHION WEEK! The Outnet and The Daily are teaming up to ensure that your NYFW is more epic than ever. How? By bringing #PrettyInfluential SoCal sister act Sara and Erin Foster to the front row and capturing their absurdly awesome antics on video. A new episode of “Pretty Influential” will debut on the site and at theoutnet.com every day this week, and if they don’t come up to you and beg you to discuss your look, your loves, and your life on camera, well, we’re a little bit worried about your profile. Consider this another reason to refresh fashionweekdaily.com like it’s your job—because, of course, it is!
scene
Opening Ceremony, thanks for rocking our world. HumberTo and Carol decided to upstage us all by showing their Spring ’17 collection nearly two weeks before NYFW even began. And at Lincoln Center, no less! OC teamed up with the New York City Ballet’s Justin Peck, designing the costumes for his new piece,“The Times Are Racing.” • BUZZ ALDRIN, DON LEMON, BILL NYE, and more graced the runway at the Blue Jacket Fashion Show to benefit the Prostate Cancer Foundation. Gentlemen, we love you and your sound-bites!
you’re a work of art!
THE DAILY+SAMSUNG
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Richard Johnson
top designers understand that 2017’s essential technology extends far beyond the smartphone. SAMSUNG CREATED A TOOLKIT TO help the CFDA’s emerging P3 menswear designers create truly tech-powered collections. ITS CONTENTS?
George Wayne
blue jacket fashion show
Vincent van Gogh’s Self-Portrait, (1887)
Justin O’Shea
grooming time!
CATCHING UP!
Have you ever walked in a runway show? Never. I’ve been studying Zoolander, and I’ve been asking for tips. What’s been the best advice you’ve gotten? Walk in a straight line, and don’t fall down. I’ll be happy when it’s all over. You’re currently in a makeup chair. I’m enjoying it. It’s sort of like getting a massage. What sparked your interest to walk in the show? I’m a good friend of Frederick Anderson. He asked me to do it, and since I saw some other people who seemed intriguing, like Don Lemon, I said yes. What was your New Year’s resolution? I never make them, because then I never fail.
What’s new, beautiful? I have a lot going on! My ninth book, Beauty From the Inside Out, is coming out. It’s about empowerment through health and wellness. I’m also working on my line of glasses, a hotel with my husband, and a lifestyle collection! What should we consume this week? Water, protein, and bone broth. These days, I’m doing a lot of Brodo Broth. It’s 100 percent protein, it’s delicious, and it makes you feel good.
With Richard Johnson
With Bobbi Brown
sweet nothings! With Rebecca de Ravenel
Why was now the time to launch your first Fashion Week presentation? It was time to do something! Like show at a bakery? Yes! It will be at Little Cupcake Bakeshop. I wanted to do something everyone could be a part of. One of the success of my Les Bonbons earrings is people always smile and enjoy wearing them, and this space has that. We take it you have a sweet tooth? I don’t, actually! I know you’re not supposed to say that. If I did, I might put on a couple of kilos. What’s next for your brand? I might like to do clothing, but I really want to stay with accessories at the moment. I don’t believe I’ll ever do shoes, because I like to be barefoot!
THE GALAXY S7
This next-gen smartphone features a dual-pixel camera that delivers brighter, sharper images, even in low-light environments (like, say, at a fashion show). Both water- and dust-resistant, it offers external storage and the Motion Panorama camera mode.
THE GEAR 360 CAMERA
Thanks to dual fish-eye lenses with 15 megapixel image sensors, the Gear 360 can shoot 360-degree video and photos that allow users to create a fully immersive experience. Fashion shows and parties can be experienced vicariously—content shot on the Gear 360 can be shared on YouTube, Facebook, and more.
THE GEAR VR
Samsung Gear VR powered by Oculus coupled with Samsung Galaxy smartphones provide an intuitive, fully untethered experience, with more than 400 apps consisting of games, photos, video, social, and more. The Gear VR will enable fashion lovers to experience a runway show from anywhere in the world.
THE LEVEL ON WIRELESS PRO HEADPHONES
These noise-canceling wireless headphones feature Ultra High Quality Audio (UHQA) technology that gives music fans the closest thing possible to a live listening experience. One-touch connection controls enable you to seamlessly adjust settings.
THE TABPRO S TABLET
Powered by Microsoft’s Windows 10 operating system, Samsung’s premium tablet is all about improving productivity. From faster speeds to an ultraclear display, the easily controlled touchpad will make doing any sort of work—from sketching to assembling lookbooks—more efficient. PROMOTION
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
g e t t y i m a g e s ( 4 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 2 ) ; pa u l ko l n i k f o r o p e n i n g c e r e m o n y ( 2 ) ; s h u t t e r s to c k ( 1 ) ; c o u r t e s y ( 6 )
OPENING CEREMONY
You could WIN a year of beauty boxes from
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Look inside specially marked bars to see if you have a winning ticket for a Birchbox women’s 12-month subscription. 500 Prizes. Grand Prize is valued at $110. No Purchase Necessary. Void where prohibited. The Balance Birchbox Instant Win Promotion is open to legal residents of the 50 United States and District of Columbia, who are 18 or older. Starts on 2/1/17 and ends on 11/30/17. For Official Rules, visit http://BalanceSweeps.DJA.com. To play without making a purchase, send your full name and complete mailing address, to: Balance Birchbox Instant Win Promotion, PO Box 7739, Melville, NY 11775-7739, postmarked by 11/30/17 and received by 12/7/17. Sponsored by Balance bar company. 704417BB-KL
major Milestone
French Revolution
Paris-born brand Zadig & Voltaire is beloved worldwide for its cool clothes, friendly price points, and that certain je ne sais quoi. To toast 20 years and officially declare itself an emerging force in the American market, creative director Cécilia Bönström is bringing her designs stateside for an anniversary celebration and a New York Fashion Week debut.
By KRISTEN HEINZINGER Photography BY ALEXANDRE TABASTE
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
nonchalant, soft attitude. I think that is why we’ve survived 20 years: We have an identity. And part of that is centered around your relationship to the art world. You've recently done some interesting work with artists.. My inspiration comes from collaborations, like those we did with Virginia Elwood, Gaia Repossi, and Pamela Love. Art is more like an impulse—it’s something in the air at our headquarters. Thierry is a big collector, so we have sculptures and paintings leaning on the walls very effortlessly. It is more like someone breathing a color or shape in my ear. You enlisted Bella and Anwar Hadid, DJ Clara 3000, and Vera Van Erp for your Spring '17 campaign. Why did they appeal? They are very strong, young, and different from one another. Bella is the perfect muse. Zadig & Voltaire has always functioned as a family house, so I thought of her brother, Anwar. They are beautiful outside and inside—very cool, happy, and educated children. ß french in action Zadig & Voltaire is known for its city-fied basics, executed with a touch of humor.
COURTESY
Welcome! What brings you to New York? I wanted our 20th anniversary to be somewhere I could show, internationally, who we are, and I think it is stronger for a French brand to show in New York rather than in Paris. Zadig & Voltaire more or less invented that vision of French fashion 20 years ago. The energy, coolness, and sporty attitude in New York is very similar to my vision of women. Are you bringing some sort of American spirit to the Fall collection? I always work with muses in my mind. The Fall silhouette is inspired by Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, and I wanted to create a look of how Parisian women would interpret the coolness of the New York woman—you know, with the coffee in her hand, very sporty, wearing sneakers. It’s also a reminder of Freja [Beha Erichsen], Erin Wasson, all the muses and women that Zadig & Voltaire stands for. We’re also concentrating on our DNA, so there will be a lot of military pieces, knitwear, lingerie, and suits. Anything totally new in the collection? Men’s silhouettes, a much higher heel and a more feminine attitude. Eight pieces will be see now, buy now. You're showing at Skylight Modern. What are you looking for in the show space? I wanted something raw and real. We are creating our new flagship between Mercer and Broome, working with a Belgian architect, Bernard Dubois. He is very into what he calls “brutalism.” Everything is metal and concrete. The venue had to be raw and rough. Any plans to relax, rejuvenate, or escape after the show? We’ll have a party in New York after the show, and we’ll shoot our winter campaign. During French Fashion Week, we will have a re-see at our headquarters in Paris in the 16th arrondissement. We’ve had the space for six months. It’s very small, very French, and has a view of the Eiffel Tower. Any other grand plans to celebrate your 20th anniversary? In the windows at our flagship store on Madison
Avenue in New York, we have beautiful designs that I made in collaboration with Parsons School of Design. Next, we’ll show creations for Summer 2017. Also, the Penninghen School in Paris had a contest for its students that asked them to interpret our iconic pieces, like leather jackets, military jackets, and knitwear sweaters, for the future. We’re going to have six items for sale on our website in exclusive quantities. How were you spending your time in 1997? I was still modeling, and working a lot between London and Paris. It’s funny how my life is linked to the story of Zadig ou la Destinée, which is the book that gave the idea to the brand’s founder [and Bönström's husband] Thierry Gillier. The story is about what you think you know and where you are heading in life, but that you can never be protected from the ups and downs. After a great modeling career for brands like Hermès and Armani, I thought my life was that of a model. In 2003, I realized I needed to do something else. I wanted to work for Zadig & Voltaire. I don’t know why that idea popped into my head, because there were only a few stores in Paris then. When you think you have the answers, suddenly life offers you a totally new chance. How did you end up in the job? I called them up and said, “Hey, I’m Swedish, I’m a model, and I love fashion. Can I come and see you?” [Laughs] Thierry had the guts to listen to a complete stranger, which shows his “Voltaire,” his revolutionary and rebellious way of doing things. How did that spirit play out in the clothes? Thierry really invented the perfect white T-shirt, military parka, and loose knitwear. What I wanted to bring in was more of an urban silhouette that shows how the Zadig & Voltaire woman works, not just the weekend vibe. I brought in the French and Italian wool theme, a lot of blazers, men’s suiting, an urban vibe but with this
artAttack
Creative Thirst
LIFEWTR, a new H20 brand from PepsiCo, was created with a clear purpose—to give emerging creatives a platform to publish their work. Brad Jakeman, president of PepsiCo’s global beverage group, and Olga Osminkina-Jones, VP of hydration, divulge their plan to democratize art, three labels at a time. By KRISTEN HEINZINGER Photography BY RYAN LIU Why did PepsiCo create LIFEWTR? Olga Osminkina-Jones: Just as water is essential to life, we believe inspiration is essential to life. The water in LIFEWTR is one of the highest-quality waters on the market, but it’s much more than water. We built this brand with a mission, which is to advance and showcase creativity. What we champion is giving a voice and a platform to emerging talent. Brad Jakeman: I think that anybody can put art on a bottle, but we’re creating a brand that is all about supporting emerging artists, and one expression of that is their artwork on the bottle. What are some other ways that LIFEWTR will support these artists? Olga: The water is a canvas for emerging artists, but it only starts with the label. Any artist that’s showcased on the label will be equally showcased in every touchpoint that we will activate LIFEWTR
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
through. You will see them at our parties and in any content or storytelling that we’ll do with LIFEWTR. We partner with many established people in the creative and art worlds, and they help us to mentor and propel the creators that we choose. Brad: As we’ve talked to emerging artists, whether they be painters, fashion designers, or photographers, they talk about having their art presented to a great number of people. That’s how they get popularized and commercialized. Showings at galleries have historically been where artists present their art to many people. In essence, we are publishing their art in the broadest possible way. A huge movement in art now is about democratizing art, and what better way to give art accessibility than a nationally distributed canvas that’s in millions of people’s homes around the world?
How did you choose the first three artists? Olga: The three artists in Series 1—Craig & Karl, MOMO, and Jason Woodside—are all public-art artists. Not so long ago, they had their first break. They each had a platform that helped them to accelerate their career. Who better than artists like this, who know the power of the right force behind them, to tell the story of LIFEWTR to the next generation of creators? Moving forward, you will see LIFEWTR giving a voice to even more emerging talent that will represent different cultural moments in the world. What was the collaborative process like? Olga: We don’t approach the artists with a marketing brief. We want the artists to find their own way and project their own voice. Through our partners, we find the right artists to represent the cultural phenomenon we want to amplify, and we ask them to give us their best work that represents who they are. We allow them to be themselves. For any creator, I think that’s the most important thing. We have to ask: What is the reason for the absence of vowels in “WTR”? Olga: We want to make a stance that we are contemporary. I think we all know that dropping vowels is the trend today. So we are in tune! Brad: It’s the language of a digital era, a language of limited characters and hashtags. Brad, tell us about the Design & Innovation Center and why you created the chief design officer role. Brad: The Design Center has been operating for more than three years. Consumers don’t just buy products, they buy brands. It’s about how they’re packaged, the label, the experiences created around the consumer. We have found that it’s not only the quality of our design that has increased since we brought on the Design Center, but so too has efficiency. Many have asked, are you getting the same quality of people who want to join PepsiCo versus the quality of people who want to join a design agency? We’re actually getting a higher quality of people. They’re closer to where the decisions are taking place. They’re not taking their work to a client and asking them to buy their ideas. Design-led thinking is important at PepsiCo. There is a significant amount of art inside and outside the HQ in Purchase, New York. Brad: An important part of our culture at PepsiCo has been supporting emerging artists, even back to our founder, Don Kendall, and the personal relationships he had with artists like Picasso and Calder. Our campus is a visual representation of our commitment to art. So the idea behind LIFEWTR is much more authentic coming from PepsiCo, which has a 50-year relationship with the art community globally. Our sculpture garden is open to the public. It’s a public-facing piece, just like the water. Like LIFEWTR, it’s democratizing art and giving access to art to everybody. What will we see next from LIFEWTR? Brad: Several times a year, we will issue a new series of LIFEWTR. Each one of those series will be grounded in an idea. Coming out with a new series will maintain an excitement around this brand, and it will allow us to touch more emerging artists. Think of our bottles as a publishing media, or a clear plastic gallery, where we will be publishing this amazing artwork. Olga: Anywhere you go in the world, there are emerging artists who are just trying to be heard. There are people all over the world that we want to reach. We want to create a global impact and a global conversation. ß
Meet the Artists Welcome to the studios of Craig & Karl, MOMO, and Jason Woodside. Here, the artists give us a glimpse of how they designed their LIFEWTR label.
Craig & Karl
“We grew up in Australia in the ’80s and ’90s, and it was a bright and bold environment, so this probably explains our obsession with color. We always want to tell a story with our work, to say more with less. Using blocks of color helps establish an emotive response from the viewer. Our piece is all about looking forward. The world is in a strange state of flux, and this was an opportunity to focus on a positive and optimistic message about the future.”
MOMO
“I’m inspired by elemental things I see in the natural world, such as light and shade, but especially natural interactions of colors. These are sensual properties of visual art without specific narratives, somewhat like music without lyrics. I settled on an existing canvas I’d painted, after looking at a dozen or so studio works. It has areas in the design that are clear, making use of the see-through surface. The surface is round and transparent, so you’re seeing a select amount of the front at any given time, plus the view of the back. The final display will likely be several bottles in a row, so the image as a group can be considered.”
Jason Woodside
courtesy
“The elements of water, light, and cultural diversity had a lot to do with my inspiration. Color and contrasts can be related to any of these. The scale is much different, physically. I tend to do larger mural works as I feel this is the best way to experience my art. In this case, justification came through the scope of the project itself. Yes, a smaller piece of art than I’m used to but quite a lot of visibility.”
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MODELMoment
Queen Vittoria It’s Vittoria Ceretti’s season. As the captivating Italian model everyone is talking about comes into her own, we get the scoop. What’s she like? Adorable. Loves pizza and her mother. You know.
You were discovered at an Elite Model Look competition. Who encouraged you to sign up? I’ve always been quite tall for my age, so ever since I was little, everyone kept telling me that I should try modeling. But in the end, my mom was the one who encouraged me to do it. Tell us all about Brescia, where you grew up. It’s a beautiful small city in the north of Italy, about an hour away from Milan. It’s the perfect spot because it’s close to lakes and mountains, and it’s just two hours from the sea. There are so many old, beautiful buildings all over the city, and it is for sure one of my favorite places in the world. What were you like as a child? I used to do so many different sports, like tennis, skiing, dancing, horseback riding, and swimming, but the thing I loved the most was spending time playing with kids who were around my age. Are the women in your family into fashion? Ever since I started modeling, they all became quite interested, but mostly just about things related to me and my work. You worked with the late Franca Sozzani on your Italian Vogue cover. What was that experience like? Working with her was always an incredible, amazing experience. As an Italian, being on the cover of Vogue Italia is one of the greatest honors. She represented such an extraordinary side of fashion for us, and she will be greatly missed. How do you get all your homework done? I try to study when I’m traveling on planes or trains. I try to bring everything with me most of the time, so in case I find some time off, I can study. You’ve become a muse for Dolce & Gabbana. That’s a really big deal for a girl from Brescia! They started my career when I was 15, and through working with them, I learned a lot of the things I know today. The first show I’ve ever walked in was Dolce & Gabbana, and I will never ever forget that. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview (3); getty images (2); courtesy
By Ashley Baker
SHE WALKS IN BEAUTY (Clockwise from far left) Ceretti on the runway at Dolce & Gabbana; gracing the catwalk at Chanel Haute Couture; helping out in the kitchen as a young girl; on the runway at Givenchy’s menswear show; at Ulyana Sergeenko during couture; at Salvatore Ferragamo in Milan.
“i’m such a huge fan of amusement parks! I went to disneyland in L.A. for two days during the summer, and as soon as I could, I went to the one in Paris!”
Your career has taken you all over the world. Which foreign countries have you enjoyed the most? I had an amazing time in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Unfortunately, I spent a very short time there, but I’m sure I’ll go back soon. I’m going to India in a few days and I’m really excited, because I’ve always wanted to go there, so I’m sure that will be another amazing experience. According to the Internet, you have two pet snakes at home in New York! True? Who looks after them when you’re on the road? Yes, I do. They’re snakes, so they don’t need someone to look after them every day—it’s more
like every five days. Normally, I ask friends or my agent to help out. What’s your off-duty style like? Sweatpants, a hoodie, and hair in a bun. Has your family been able to see you walk the runway? What do they think of all this? They’re all happy and very supportive! My mom came to the Dolce & Gabbana show twice. On Instagram, you suggested that you recovered from last fashion season by hitting up Disneyland Paris with Natalie Westling. It was such a beautiful, sunny day—perfect for a trip to Disneyland. I’m such a huge fan of amusement parks! I went to Disneyland in L.A. for two days during the summer, and as soon as I could, I went to the one in Paris. What are your favorite Italian dishes, and where do you like to eat them? Pizza, of course! That’s everyone’s favorite dish. I love to get pizza in Milan when I go for jobs or back home in Brescia whenever I get to visit my family. Have you ever considered going into acting? Yes, I would like to try it in the future, if I get the chance. What’s your favorite film of all time? And what about your favorite actress? I love the Harry Potter movies. And Natalie Portman! Do you like to exercise? It’s not my favorite thing, but when I do go to the gym, I try to do a bit of everything. What are your favorite beauty products? I love face masks and oils, because I have very dry skin. Any plans for your next vacation? Where are you dying to go? Somewhere warm! Maybe Costa Rica. In 10 years, what will you be doing? Hopefully, I’ll be happy, in love, and living in my dream house on an island. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
modelFamily
sister act
Sibling duo Suki and Immy Waterhouse are both young powerhouses in the world of fashion and film. (Younger sister Maddi is quickly following in their footsteps.) As they shot the Spring campaign for Shopbop, we grilled them on everything from their skyrocketing careers to their closely guarded closets—they still fight over things as simple as a T-shirt. What’s not to love about a little sibling rivalry? BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT JONES You’re starring in Shopbop's Spring campaign together. What’s the best part about your sisterly collaboration? Suki Waterhouse: It’s such a treat! It’s just easy and relaxing, and I get to catch up with her at the same time. I’m very proud of her. Were you always close? Immy Waterhouse: Generally, as sisters do, we have our spats. Suki: But we’ve always been close. Immy: And we’ve gotten closer as we got older. Suki: We got closer when Immy got older and became less annoying. [Laughs] Immy: Actually, as Suki gets older, she gets more annoying. I’m going to kick you for that statement. [Laughs] What do you fight about? Immy: I once stole Suki’s bra and she screamed at me. Suki: We fight about stealing clothes nonstop. Our rooms were next to each other growing up. Immy: But you have so many clothes you don’t know what to do with them all. Suki: That’s true—I do appreciate that they get worn. Immy: Actually, [sister] Maddi is the biggest culprit. Are you still looking for any suspiciously missing pieces? Suki and Immy: Yeah [in unison]. Suki: I ask Immy every time I see her, “Where is my vintage black T-shirt?” I know that she stole it to this day. Immy: I really don’t have it and I told her I don’t have it. You know I would give it to her if I had it, because it’s not worth this badgering. Suki: It’s the most incredible black T-shirt ever. I’m going to get upset if we keep talking about it. What kind of music do you like to listen to when you are on set? Suki: I’m feeling this song called “Fantasy” by Alina Baraz and Galimatias. Immy: Anything that’s high energy that makes you move your butt! I quite like Frank Ocean. Suki: Immy’s got a really good playlist, actually. What do you think about the clothes on set? Favorites, please!
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“We got closer when Immy got older and became less annoying.” —Suki Waterhouse
Suki: They’re incredible. I’m so obsessed with Adam Selman. There’s some ridiculously amazing stuff from him, like a long pink dress. There’s the most gorgeous sweater by Preen [by Thornton Bregazzi]. There are amazing shoes by Acne and a pair of sparkled Marni sandals that I’m obsessed with. Immy: I’m liking the Veronica Beard camouflage jacket with these casual trainers and gray shorts. There’s a great Kenzo hoodie, too. Are you both big online shoppers? Suki: I am. I’ve bought vintage Chanel bracelets from Shopbop that I treasure. I love shopping online late at night after I’ve had a glass of wine and then forgetting about it. Then it arrives and I’m so excited. It’s one of life’s great joys. What are you dying to buy that you haven’t splurged on yet? Immy: I’m looking for a nice matching tracksuit. Suki: I’m looking for those Rag & Bone red jumpers— the V-neck one. I’m also dying to get these Alice + Olivia black and white striped pants. I wore them in the shoot. They’re incredible. What are your most embarrassing fashion moments? Suki: A few things on Google are absolutely horrific. There are quite a lot of them, to be honest. Sometimes it’s just really bad hair—bad cut, bad color. The mistakes happen when you’re dressing for a red carpet photograph, and it gets a bit out of your hands. I always think things look amazing in real life, and then I’m horrified by the picture. Immy, what was it like working with Tom Ford on Nocturnal Animals? Immy: It was amazing. He is the perfect specimen. Every detail is down to a T. It was a really fun and enriching experience. Were you intimidated? Immy: Yeah, but in a way that I just wanted to do well for him—not in a scary way. Suki, did you offer her any acting tips? Suki: Absolutely not. Immy helps me with my acting. What have been some of the highlights of your own acting career? Suki: Going to Venice! The film that I just did, The Bad Batch, won the Special Jury Prize at the Venice Film Festival. It was a huge moment. Immy: She’s really great in it. Suki: You haven’t seen it! Immy: I’ve seen the trailer. Suki: Immy! [Laughs] Being in a film with Jim Carrey and Keanu Reeves and the rest of the cast was crazy. Who is your dream director to work with? Suki: [Quentin] Tarantino. Immy: Wes Anderson would be cool. Suki: I’d like to do an action film at some point. I’d like to use my karate skills.
Shopbop slumber party Opposite page ( from top): Suki Waterhouse and Immy Waterhouse. This page: Suki Waterhouse, Immy Waterhouse, and Alanna Arrington. All clothing available at shopbop.com.
What were your first modeling gigs? Suki: My first job was for a family friend just before I got signed. They were two young girls who had started a label. We shot in Wales, and it was freezing. On set, they steamed my leg and I was violently burned. I think I got paid 20 pounds or something. Immy: My first proper was online for Urban Outfitters, I think. Suki: That was quite nice for you, wasn’t it? Immy: It was pretty nice. I did a few before that, but that was the first one I remember where I was like, “Ohhh, fashion.” What did you want to be when you grew up? Immy: I wanted to be a marine biologist or a teacher. Suki always wanted to model and act. Suki: I always wanted to do something performance related. I was hoping something would happen! ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
iconStatus
Erasa XEP-30 has been said to have effects similar to Botox. I’ve never said it’s an alternative to Botox, but a lot of editors and journalists who’ve tried it come to that conclusion, and I’m not going to disagree with them. The XEP-30 has that effect on the wrinkles, relaxing them. Most people love the product for that very reason, but that’s not what got me hooked. There were three other things that I liked more than the relaxing of the wrinkles, and that was evening out my skin tone—my melasma, which I’ve been battling for so long, is almost gone. It also shrinks the pores. And it wasn’t Julius’s intention, but it helps fade dark circles. Without realizing it, I have stopped wearing concealer. We are currently working on a moisturizer, along with a moisturizer with sunscreen. We also plan to work on new products that address eyes, lips, and hands. Lab days are very exciting! Where do you stand on the more invasive stuff? Oh, I’m pro everything! [Laughs] Definitely, definitely. Actually, I was one of the first people to admit that I did Botox, but I’m actually someone who doesn’t really care about wrinkles. I like wrinkles on a face. I don’t like uneven skin tones. I don’t like big pores. Wrinkles I think are okay. But yes, this product really helps with wrinkles, and I know a lot of people use the product for that. What were your tried-and-true beauty products when you were a catwalk regular? It was always never-ending and changing. The thing that really got my attention Linda Evangelista is back on the beauty scene as the creative director of new with the Erasa is that when I finished the bottle, I thought the pump was broken, skincare company Erasa. Naturally, we took the occasion to grill her on everything because I’ve never finished any beauty from Gigi and Kendall to Carlyne and Cavaco. product in my life. Ever. I never went out By KRISTEN HEINZINGER and bought the same line twice. I always moved on to the next brand. And I’ve tried You’ve been the face of several beauty brands, like Going forward, the things that we’re creating are things them all! It’s nice that there’s one product that can L’Oréal Paris and NARS Cosmetics. that I believe in and things that I think women need—or address so many issues. What urged you to go a step further and join that I certainly need! Is there anyone in the industry that you’re still a company? The brand falls into the anti-aging category— close with? This is the first time that something felt so right and what are your thoughts on the increasing All of them! happened so naturally. [Erasa XEP-30] is the first pressure women face to look like younger versions We saw that you recently reunited with members product that’s ever really worked on me. I was very of themselves? of your girl squad, Christy Turlington and Naomi enthusiastic about it, and my esthetician Georgia Who wants to look younger? I get feeling younger Campbell, for the Knot on My Planet campaign. Louise’s husband, who had given it to me to try, physically, but looking younger is just so wrong in so Was it just like old times? suggested I meet the team. I went in for a quick hello, many ways! I just try to look good. I look forward to It was a lovely experience. It felt very familiar working and was fascinated with Julius [Zecchino], the chemist. aging and watching my son grow into a man. Too many together, and we enjoyed ourselves. Carlyne Cerf [de We hit it off, and they invited me to come on board. people close to my heart have passed too early, and Dudzeele] tied us in our knot in the dressing room and I felt that it was an easy decision to make because I I will never get to laugh with them in the decades to we had to make our way to the set across the studio come, which makes me very sad. was very, very, very into the product and believed in it. like that. Christy and I had our boys there, and they
Everlasting Evangelista
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getty images (11); all others courtesy
hung out together. Cindy Crawford’s daughter, Kaia Gerber, is having a real moment! She’s lucky she has a great coach, and she’s got someone who has her back. I can’t see how she could possibly fail. She’s not being thrown out there and being blindsided. I’m sure she’s being very well protected. She couldn’t ask for a better coach or team captain. Some say Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner and the like are the next generation of supermodels. Would you agree? If you tell me what a supermodel is, I can answer your question! [Laughs] If you’re talking about the girls out there who are on top of the world right now, there’s definitely a moment. I mean, they’re bigger than life. They’re incredible. They’re substantial and important and relevant and fascinating and all of the above. It’s all about change. Fashion is about change, and there’s been this tremendous shift in our industry as far as models and fashion and media and social media. I think it’s all just the way it’s meant to be. It’s all fascinating. Do you think it’s fair that social media is a big part of these models’ jobs today? I think it’s always existed in different terms. From the beginning, when they were doing black and white films in Hollywood, the actresses contractually had to do interviews, didn’t they? Which was giving away part of their privacy. I can’t possibly see social media getting bigger than it is now. [Laughs] But it probably will! I don’t know how it will evolve. Do I think it’s fair? They can always say no. One can always say no. But I’m sure one is compensated somehow. It’s a double-edged sword, like everything. Have you hopped on the social media bandwagon? [Sighs] You know, I was brought in to Instagram kicking and screaming. I got an intervention by my peeps. [Laughs] So that’s the only one I do. And I actually enjoy it, but every time I post or I take a picture of something, I’m not thinking, “Oh, I’m going to take a picture of this for Instagram.” I hope I don’t have to start changing the way I think. But you have to make a decision, and there’s always consequences in life to the decisions one makes about, do I share this personal moment or don’t I? So that’s a little bit of the battle I’m having with social media. And the people who do it, we’re all so interested. The more they share, the more we want. I’m interested! I’m having to find my equilibrium there, though. I haven’t found it yet, what I’m comfortable with. You post a lot of photos from old shoots. What’s your favorite shoot experience of all time? While I have so many, one that comes to mind is my shoot in Miami, with Steven Meisel, Oribe, François Nars, Sciascia, and Fabien Baron for Franca/Italian Vogue. Those were the days when we had a week to shoot and explore. It was a bit scary in the back alleys of Miami, though, as we heard a few gun shots. We had a blast on that trip. Do you ever get tired of hearing your famous quote, “We don’t get out of bed for less than $10K a day?" I heard it in the background on the TV not that long ago—and I could be wrong, but I think it was Teen Titans, the cartoon. And I heard, “Don’t get out of bed for less than…,” and I said, “What did they say? Back that up, back that up!” And I told my son I coined the phrase. And he said, “And they would say it on Teen Titans?” He did not believe me. He then was at Dave & Buster’s—I was not there—and he played a trivia game against other people, and the question was, Which person said, “I don’t get out of bed for less than $10K a day?” And he started screaming, “Mommy! Mommy! Mommy!” Everyone was like,
“…there’s been this tremendous shift in our industry as far as models and fashion and media and social media. I think it’s all just the way it’s meanT to be.” “What?” And he said, “Linda Evangelista! Linda Evangelista!” He came home with the biggest prize that day. He believed me after that, when he saw my name come up at Dave & Buster’s. Let’s say your son one day says, “Mom, I want to be a model…” [Laughs] He can’t stand having his picture taken. It breaks my heart! He did not get that gene from me. I never thought of that, though. Never. I’d have to be supportive of whatever he wants to be. If you could relive any one of your runway moments, which would it be?
Maybe I would choose Anna Sui’s first show. It was really fun and there weren’t enough of us, so we really had to scramble and hurry. We all wanted it to work for her, and you know, [stylist] Paul Cavaco was there. It was a very, very exciting moment, because she is a friend and I was with the girls, and I just remember it being a fun moment. What, if anything, could bring you back to the runway? [Laughs] Oh…um. No. No…I can’t think of anything. It’s so nice to watch shows, though. ß
linda, LINDA, linda! With a decades-long career like Linda Evangelista’s, how can one not entertain a trip down the most glamorous memory lane?
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THE ORIGINAL SUPERMODEL 1. Walking Chanel’s 1992 Autumn/Winter couture show; 2. Modeling a vest of pearls at Chanel’s Paris Fashion Week show in 1991; 3. At the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 1996 show; 4. Donna Karan’s Fall 1991 show in New York; 5. At the fantastical Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2005 show; 6. With Cindy Crawford at Dishes On Ice Benefit in 1994; 7. With Naomi Campbell; 8. One of her 90-plus Vogue covers, June 1990, shot by Steven Meisel; 9. With Karl Lagerfeld; 10. With Anna Sui.
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50+Hottest
e h T
t s e n t i u s a h ttieon i o H Fash
Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director, Louis Vuitton
s!) l e d o m g n ludi c x (E
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Virginie Mouzat, editor in chief of fashion, Vanity Fair France
Models are beautiful. This we know. But behind the beautiful people… are a whole bunch of other just-as-beautiful people. In no particular order, here are the most head-turning publicists, designers, editors, execs, managers, bloggers, and beyond that The Daily has laid eyes on this season. Not on the list? Next year, loves! By ANONYMOUS
Beauty is… “A clear complexion, some red lipstick, and mascara. That will make you look more put together than anything.”
How do you define beauty? “Beauty is everywhere—it’s in nature, art, architecture. You just have to keep your eyes and heart open to see it. I’ve always felt that beauty in a person is so much more than their exterior features. Sophia Loren said it best: ‘Beauty is how you feel inside and it reflects in your eyes. It is not something physical.’ ”
Jonathan Anderson, designer
—Kat Tanita, blogger, With Love From Kat Elaine Welteroth, editor in chief, Teen Vogue
—Carly Cardellino, beauty director, cosmopolitan.com
Tyler Smeeton, account executive, BPCM
Yashua Simmons, associate fashion editor, Elle
g e t t y i m a g e s ( 1 1 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 2 ) ; w e lt e r o t h : r y a n l i u ; a l l o t h e r s c o u r t e s y
Samantha Angelo, blogger, The Eye Travels
When do you feel most beautiful? “After my morning shower, or in the countryside after a few days feeling dusty.” —Marcos Fecchino,
Selby Drummond, accessories director, Vogue
fashion producer
Jim Kloiber, partner, Battalion
Beauty is… “Positive energy… and Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, Glossier face masks, Kate Somerville Goat Milk Eye Balm, and Santal 33 fragrance from Le Labo.”
Beauty is… “Making the most of what you got…and learning to accept the dreaded ‘for’ in a compliment. As in, he looks good for ____. It happens after you turn 40.”
—Emerson Barth, manager,
—Bill Wackermann,
IMG Models
Beauty is… “My mother telling me that I could achieve anything I wanted in life.” —Brooke Wall, founder and CEO, The Wall Group
CEO, Wilhelmina
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50+Hottest What do you find beautiful in a person? I think a commitment to something bigger than your own needs/wants is beautiful, whether it’s being a good parent or devoting time to a charitable cause.
What makes you feel hot?
Running and exercise in general. I ran the NYC marathon for the first time and I felt pretty empowered after doing that!
Erin Cullison, fashion director, BPCM
What have you learned from your glam squad over the years?
I wash my hair with baking soda and didn’t wear makeup until this year, so I am not full of glam beauty tips. But I have watched a lot of YouTube videos of makeup tutorials of what not to look like!
Teddy Charles, hair stylist
What’s the most beautiful thing anybody has ever said to you?
“I made dinner,” said my husband. I am lucky to be married to the coolest and most delicious man.
What about your appearance have you learned to accept over the years? “I always wanted a boob job! I was convinced I would get one after college graduation. And then I finally got comfortable with my body. Now I’m happy with what I’ve got...plus no bra is a bonus for sure.” —Lexi Cross, co-founder, SO/NYC Creative
—Aya Kanai, executive fashion director, Cosmopolitan and Seventeen
How do you define beauty? Self-assurance, kindness, empathy.
What’s your secret for taking care of your hair?
Jonathan Simkhai, designer
I buzz it once a year right before summer, and have a superstition that it grows back because of that. Now I worry that I just jinxed my superstition.
When do you feel the most beautiful?
I am not getting any younger, so if I get checked out by a group of teenagers while buying dollar pizza downstairs from my office, I feel pretty good about things.
Chris Gay, co-CEO, Elite World
—TJ Allers, director, PWC David Thielebeule, style director, WSJ. Magazine Rachel Roy, designer
Guillaume Henry, designer
Giampaolo Sgura, fashion photographer
Remi Barbier, public relations and events consultant
Shiona Turini, style consultant, creative director
Alain Bernard, president and CEO of the Americas, Van Cleef & Arpels Laura Brown, editor in chief, InStyle
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What makes you feel beautiful? When someone you have a crush on has a crush on you! But being five pounds down and having a suntan, three nights of good sleep, and a knockout crazy Naeem Khan drama dress on is a second best!
Who are the most beautiful people working in fashion?
Natural style, individuality, humor, and humanity is what I see as beauty. A face to get lost in doesn’t hurt. Giovanna Englebert’s playful and dramatic elegance; Ranjana Khan’s unapologetic style; Sofía Sanchez Barrenechea, a beautiful and fresh icon for her home country of Argentina; Linda Tol from Belgium and now Italy—her hair, her clothes!; Chloe King, our social media master and clothing magpie at BG; Hamish Bowles for his colorful life, looks, and dashing character; Justin O’Shea’s bad boy/nice guy aesthetic; and can I just say Joan Smalls?
Christiane Arp, editor in chief Vogue Germany
Beauty is… “Learning to accept my height. Growing up tall is not always easy. Only when I got to New York did I realize what an asset being tall can be.”
—Linda Fargo, SVP fashion office and director
of women’s fashion and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
—Desiree Gruber, CEO, Full Picture
What do you find beautiful in a person? The energy they radiate!
When do you feel most beautiful? First thing in the morning after I’ve put on my face cream, concealer, and mascara.
What have you learned from your glam squad over the years?
Be liberal with your face creams (my face drinks them like water), don’t wash your hair every day, and keep your nails short and clean!
g e t t y i m a g e s ( 2 0 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 1 ) ; b a r b i e r : s t e fa n i a c u r to ; l a i r d : w i l l i a m j e s s l a i r d ; a l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y
—Maria Dueñas Jacobs, accessories director, ELLE
Olivier Rousteing, designer, Balmain
Francesco Carrozzini, photographer
Beauty is… “Being proactive, not reactive. Moisturize and protect! And it doesn’t hurt to have a dermatologist on speed dial.” —Susan Duffy, chief marketing officer, Stuart Weitzman
Inès de la Fressange, designer
Neville Jacobs, Marc’s dog
Mert Alas, photographer
How do you define beauty? Beauty is subtle, elusive, and finite. I think it really expresses itself in a perpetual anarchy of the mind. People who think for themselves, dress for themselves, and constantly struggle to form and reform their own flawed existence are the most beautiful. Beauty is the imperfect struggle for imperfection.
How do you define beauty? Michelle Obama
What’s the best beauty tip you’ve ever received? My very first boss taught me, “It’s better to be late and luscious than prompt and plain.”
When do you feel most beautiful?
What about your appearance have you learned to accept over the years? All of it.
Who do you think are the most beautiful people working in fashion? See above. (The imperfect strugglers.) —Thaddeus O’Neil, designer
Trey Laird, founder, Laird & Partners
Those magical few hours where your mascara is still on your lashes and your bunions don’t ache yet. —Rose Swarbrick, managing partner and director, Factory PR
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
S U O E G R S O G DUO
50+Hottest
What makes you feel beautiful? When I’m wearing Cushnie et Ochs, of course.
What’s the most beautiful thing anyone has ever said to you?
TK Wonder and Cipriana Quann, twins about town
A man told me that he wanted me to have his babies on the first night that we met. We’re now happily married.
How do you define beauty? Michelle Ochs and Carly Cushnie, designers, Cushnie et Ochs
Being comfortable in your own skin. To me, confidence is beauty. —Michelle Ochs
How do you define beauty? Getting free drinks at a bar.
What’s the most beautiful thing anyone has ever said to you? A man on the subway once looked at me and said, “Girl, I want to take you shopping at Macy’s.”
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, designers, Proenza Schouler
—Carly Cushnie
Dean Caten and Dan Caten, designers, Dsquared2
Beauty is… “John [Wattiker]. Inside and out. Our Vizsla, Grace, is a close second.” —Malcolm Carfrae, principal/founder, Carfrae Consulting
Justin O’Shea, street-style wunderkind, and Veronika Heilbrunner, writer
Beauty is… “The things that you can’t fake. Easy confidence, humility, a quick sense of humor, kindness, and integrity are the most beautiful things to me.” —John Wattiker, executive director, fashion and retail, Esquire and esquire.com
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g e t t y i m a g e s ( 4 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 1 ) ; c o u r t e s y
John Targon and Scott Studenberg, designers, Baja East
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RANKIN FILE
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There’s Cher, Madonna, Beyoncé, and Rankin, the one-named London photographer-turnedmagazine-maker, currently the EIC of Hunger, who talks to The Daily for the first time about the Queen, nudity, and why he loves his distinct moniker. By Eddie Roche
Rankin on photographing the Queen: Everybody always asks, “Did you photograph her naked?” There’s a lot of mythology around her. So I did a lot of research. I only met her for minutes. It’s not like I’ve got some insight into her birth, but it was an amazing experience, because she’s somebody who has chosen to live her life a certain way. Her uncle was born into the same position and threw it all away. Because of that, she couldn’t throw it all away. That would’ve been the end of the monarchy. And that pressure on her must have been unbelievably stressful and painful and difficult. So to meet someone like that, who sacrificed beyond, beyond, beyond…. Most people see her as privileged, but I see her as being someone not privileged, to have sacrificed an entire life. And she has borne it well; she’s succeeded in it. I’ve just got tremendous respect for that as a human being. That
naked, but for me, nudity is very pure. There’s a very honest exchange when someone’s naked. I don’t photograph one type of nude; I photograph lots of different types of people because I’m interested in people. I don’t objectify; I subjectify. It’s more about what’s going on in the viewer’s head, than it is about the photographer. But I love, love, love the rise in male nudity, because when I did it back in 1999, I did it uniquely, quite comically because that was my way into it. But no one wanted to publish them because there was a massive fear of the prick at that time. Now, though, there’s a whole aesthetic of women and male photographers doing this really beautiful male nude photography. They make you look at the world a different way. That’s a good thing. Rankin on Terry Richardson: I prefer Juergen Teller!
model’s body. She’s got such a vision about how she sees things. And when she puts her name to things… yeah, it’s business but she’s got a real belief what she thinks is the right way to do things. And 99.9 percent of the time she’s right. Rankin on his new boutique agency, The Full Service: There was a gap in the market for a small fashion-led advertising agency. I’d worked in advertising a lot, with the most amazing directors and agencies. But I also saw many situations where [clients would] be spending millions of pounds without getting that value back out. The industry was changing so much. And I was like, why don’t I just cut out the middleman? Why don’t I have my own company straight to client? The minute we started doing it, we got work, good work for the past two years, that I’m very proud of doing. I’m not looking
is how I went into that shoot, having tremendous respect for her as a human being. The power in that room was palatable. You could almost cut the atmosphere. Rankin on sniffing out fame: Having photographed tens of thousands of people now, I believe you can feel when someone’s got some special quality to them. I remember when I first met Jude Law—he was 17 or 18, maybe even 16—thinking this guy’s got something special. And then five years later, he was becoming really famous. That kind of experience, when you meet someone and then suddenly they become very successful. You start to trust those instincts. Rankin on nudes: I think that it’s very easy to say that nudity is about sex and wanting to see people
Rankin on making magazines: Magazines are about your taste. You should always make a magazine for yourself. Hunger [his third and latest magazine] is very much about me having a certain taste. I still had this real desire to feature lots of other people’s work, and I still had a hunger for the new. I wanted a fashion magazine that has a sense of humor. You know, that wasn’t bitchy, wasn’t negative. I wanted to make a magazine that was friends with all the other magazines, if that makes sense. Rankin on Heidi Klum: She’s probably one of the only famous people that I’m kind of friends with. And she’s incredibly loyal to me, to the point that it’s almost kind of…embarrassing. Because, she always requests me. I work with her not for her, you know what I mean? She’s amazing, an art director in a
From debbie to liz Rankin doesn’t seem to require a lot of sleep: Issue 12 of Hunger will be out in March, an exhibition of his work will open later this month in Berlin, and he has campaigns coming for Samsonite and erotic retailer Coco de Mer.
to work with the big international players. What interests me are the companies that are smaller that don’t have the big budgets. Rankin on his name: I think that when you name your child you’re almost giving them an opportunity in life to be different. My name made me different at school. I got bullied, had the piss taken out of me. In a way the name that you are given helps create your personality, and so I was lucky. I still love it. It’s got a funny ring to it, and I think that when you say it you can’t help but smile for lots of reasons. It’s really made me who I am. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Retailer Report
SHOPPING SAVant
As a former editor at style.com, and Teen Vogue, Marina Larroudé has cultivated a successful career by discerning what women really want to wear. Now, she’s using all that intel to bring a fresh vision to Barneys New York. The retailer’s new fashion director fills us in.
BY ASHLEY BAKER Photography by WILLIAM jess LAIRD FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
During our shoot, you said that you feel like you’ve always worked at Barneys. Why is that? It feels like a very natural transition. I think it’s the same thing when you find your husband! [Laughs] Every piece of my role here feels very natural, like something I’ve been doing for a very long time. It was actually harder for me to go from digital to magazines than to go from media to retail. Why is that? When I worked at style.com, I was doing most of my work by myself. At Teen Vogue, I was managing a full team, so I had to do that while also producing a photo shoot and managing stylists and creative personalities. All the relationships I have with designers, my editing experience, and my familiarity with the product has all served what I’m doing here at Barneys. I’ve been seeing Saint Laurent collections for 12 years, so I’m very familiar with which shoes are new, which are carryovers, and which colorways they’ve been doing. The whole thing about magazines working on exclusives? We work on exclusives for product. It’s completely different, but on the other hand, it seems very natural. On the other hand, calling in shoes or bags or dresses for a photo shoot, we are making a selection that’s going to be sold at Barneys and barneys.com—the Madison store, the Beverly Hills store, and so on. I’m a professional shopper in a way—I know a lot about products. I think I’m also very connected to my friends, and what they’re buying now, and interested in buying in the future. The entire team has been so welcoming. For the uninitiated, what is the role and mission of a fashion director at a store like Barneys? I help select new designers to be sold at Barneys, and I’m very involved in product development for Barneys’ private label for ready-to-wear and accessories. I also meet with the digital director and go over the lineup for stories. And, of course, the mailer and our lookbooks are a big part of it, too. It’s very multilayered and dynamic. One meeting could be about choosing the colorways for private label sweaters— we do the best Loro Piana cashmere sweaters. The next could be going over the Fashion Week lineup with Marisa, who manages The Window, our digital destination. The next could be going over shoes. The next one could be meeting with a designer for his new collection. It’s very fulfilling, to say the least. Is this the first time you’ve done product development? Yes, although through the years, meeting with designers, I’ve always said things like, “How about doing this in white?” How much travel do you plan to be doing? I do the main Fashion Weeks twice a year, and then I go to Europe for the pre-collections. And I’m sure there will be additional travel in the United States. We’d love an abbreviated version of your life story. How did you end up in fashion? I’m Brazilian, from São Paulo. I moved to New York 14 years ago. I had wanted to live abroad, and when I met my then-boyfriend, he got a job here, so…long story short, he proposed, and a year later, I was living here. I had worked at Brazilian Vogue for a couple of years, while I was still in college, so when I first came, I didn’t know if I wanted to do the magazine thing, although I did love fashion. It was so hard—I didn’t know anyone in the industry. It’s not like you go to FIT and get a job in the industry, although that helps. So I had to start all over again, even though I was doing covers at Brazilian Vogue. I started e-mailing
fun facts!
courtesy
Astrological sign: Libra Mother to: Gloria, 7, and George, 3 Karaoke song: “New York, New York” Recent quality read: The Road to Character, by David Brooks Best vacation ever: “Mykonos with my husband a couple of summers ago.” Most memorable concert: “It has to be the latest one: Justin Bieber!” Best advice ever received: “You can’t do it all by yourself. You have to have a strong team to be able to do greater things.” Most memorable fashion show: “My first Chanel show at the Grand Palais in Paris. Every time I go back it still gives me goose bumps.” Longest-owned item in wardrobe: “A vintage fur coat from my great aunt; it’s probably 40 years old. It used to belong to her and she passed it down to me when I first moved to New York in the early 2000s.” BFF (best fashion friends): “Rickie De Sole, Karla Martinez, and Jane Keltner de Valle.” First thing you ever bought at Barneys: “Prada sandals, 20 years ago!” Favorite place to hang out in the Madison Avenue boutique: “The shoe floor.”
everyone I could think of, and I got an internship at Temperley London. I worked there for a year, doing retail, wholesale, PR, everything. After that, I wanted to go back to editorial—I didn’t want to work with just one brand, one designer. I was very lucky. I sent my résumé to about 40 people on all the mastheads, looking for an entry-level job. Nobody got back to me—why would they?—but then I sent my résumé to Candy Pratts Price with flowers, and she checked it out. She probably wanted to see if I was crazy or not! [Laughs] Candy was the first person who took a chance on me. She offered to interview me at 8:30 a.m., and she was like, “Okay, you’re not crazy. I’m going to pass along your résumé.” So she sent it to Dirk Standen, and he had a freelance assistant for one story only, and it was men’s. I was like, “Ideally, I’m looking for a full-time job in women’s, but of course I
marina’s domain From the artfully designed floors at Barneys to the streets of New York, Larroudé is everywhere the fashion world needs to be.
want it.” So I went, and I never left. Jobs can come in various forms, and you need to be open. I did men’s for two years, and then I went to do women’s, which I did there for seven years. I loved helping designers get scale on a global community. I’d get e-mails from stores around the world, and magazines like Vogue China—“Where did you find that?” Then I went to Teen Vogue to get experience managing a team and producing big shoots. Barneys is a very good mix from my style.com experience launching designers and helping them with all my managerial experience at Teen Vogue. What makes Barneys unique, in your eyes? I believe that we are giving the consumer a very strong edit—when they come to the store, they see what we really believe in. We want to create a very curated experience. There’s something very
unique about Barneys, and we all have a unique story to say about the brand. There’s something very special about it. The minute that you say you work at Barneys, everyone has feedback to give you. My aesthetic? I love color, so when I’m doing a buy in a showroom, I’ll say, “Yes, we want the classic one, but can we also add this colorway?” I hope to bring that to the table, and I also like new designers that I’m passionate about. I really hope to bring them to the Barneys umbrella. The buying team, and Jennifer Sunwoo, have been very supportive about bringing them into the fold. As the Spring collections arrive in the store, what are you really excited about? Sies Marjan. It’s his second season with us—we have the exclusive, and we’re promoting it very strongly. I saw him last night, and I said, “In New York, we see so much sportswear and streetwear. It’s really nice to see a feminine collection in the mix that comes with the New York collections.” Maison Mayle, of course, I love. Unraveled is a very cool L.A. brand for the rock ’n’ roll girl. How is the Barneys customer wearing streetwear? She’s all over it. Off-White is selling through the roof. Our client is very edgy and cool; she’s the first one who will pick up those trends. There are so many big changes at fashion houses this season. What are you looking forward to seeing? Raf at Calvin Klein. We’re going to be selling that, and we’re very excited about it. What did you think about Bouchra’s first collection for Lanvin? It’s a very different Lanvin from Alber’s, but it’s good, and it has very nice quality. There are so many classic pieces—a lot for us to work with, and very high end. What did you think about Pierpaolo’s first solo collection for Valentino? It was very strong. I saw his pre-Fall collection yesterday, and we loved the floral dresses and super-high boots. There’s a sneaker with mini studs in the back that I think will be very successful for us. What’s your strategy for packing for all these Fashion Weeks? I know this is going to sound crazy, but buy five to seven new pieces you’re excited about. Pack those, plus things you love from your wardrobe, and classics. Black pants, a knit. What will those new pieces be for you this Fashion Week? All pieces that are sold at Barneys! [Laughs] Personally, I’m really gravitating toward Maison Mayle. I love Dries, Altuzarra, and Barneys Private Label. I recently bought a coat and I can’t wait for it to arrive at my house. I’d love to add some Céline to the mix, too. Fashion aside, what are your other passions? Exercising. I love running so much! Over the weekend, I’m always about athleisure. This whole sweatshirt trend? I’m all for it! And what’s your order at Fred’s? French fries and pizza—the Margherita or the prosciutto. But my next order will be the truffle one! ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ChicLaugh
drawing inspiration If you haven’t already ogled the work of illustrator du moment Julie Houts (@jooleeloren), we’re borderline concerned. A designer by day and Instagram star by night, she’s found a full-time fan base with her witty musings on the fashion industry and beyond. Turns out Miss Houts is a hoot! By paige reddinger photography by william jess laird When did this all happen for you? I grew up going to art camps with my sister and then I studied painting at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago before I realized that I was a very bad painter. [Laughs] I transferred into fashion there, which was good, but at that time, it was a very avantgarde program. I was set on working in the industry, so I transferred to Parsons and finished up there and started working at J.Crew. I just started illustrating on the side for fun. When I started posting them on Instagram, I had 15 followers. Slowly, it built. Ever dream of having your own fashion label? Maybe for half a second, but it was always clear how difficult and expensive that is—a huge part of it is not the design work so much as running the business. I was always super content to be one of the pack; work/life balance was always super important to me. You have 128,000 followers now. When did you realize that this was more than a side project? It’s still kind of happening. I’m still kind of shocked and surprised anyone looks at it. But when a few sites, like Man Repeller, wrote about it, I realized that it wasn’t that personal anymore. You deal with some very personal themes like body image, stress, and imperfection. I’ve had to kind of tune out that people are watching or just not put too much pressure on anything. What do your parents think of your new fame? [Laughs] My poor parents! They’re obviously super proud and excited, but I think they are also like, “What are you putting on the Internet?” FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
getty images (4); shutterstock (1); all others courtesy
Cackle, cackle It’s so funny because it’s so true. A few of our favorite Julie Houts originals.
Have you ever thought about animating your illustrations? Yes! I can’t talk too much about it, but I’m working on a TV show with my best friend, Catherine, who’s a writer. It’s in the early stages; we’re writing the pilot. Have you been shocked to discover that you have some high-profile followers? Yes, but it’s such a sad story. In middle school, I was obsessed with John Mayer. I loved him. It’s so embarrassing! I thought he was the best. I don’t remember how I found out he was following me, but I think he liked something and I happened to catch it. I was like, “I’m done now.” My middle school self was dying. But then a few months later, I checked to see if he was still following and he wasn’t. I was like, “God, what did I do? What did I do to lose John Mayer?” Who are some of your biggest fans in the fashion industry? Actually, Donald Robertson (@drawbertson) was probably one of the first to find me and re-gram one of my illustrations. His daughter had shown him my Instagram account. A few days after that my friend had showed my illustrations to Alexa Chung and she re-gramed something, so between the two of them, that was the jumping-off point. Your work features some recurring characters— rats, for example. What’s the idea behind that? Everyone is always asking me that, but I actually don’t know. I had a pig that I drew for a while. I don’t know why I drew that either! Well, I actually used to have this full-on mouse infestation when I was at Parsons. I was never home. I would come home, sleep under a pile of coats for two hours, then go back to school. Speaking of coats, you also have a second Instagram called @FurCoatsOnEbay! [Laughs] I’m always secretly like, “That’s the one.” I was just looking for fur coats on eBay and then I realized how amazing everyone was on there, modeling their fur coats. I never even told anyone about it until one night I accidentally posted three fur coat photos on @jooleeloren. Then I had people writing things to me like, “I’m going to murder you in your house!” It was crazy. The things people write…
Do you have a favorite illustration? I don’t, but I have noticed I often end up liking ones that other people don’t like. It will be something like where I’ve drawn a hand that feels like a breakthrough for me. I made a print of this one where the girl is punching herself in the nose and I just love that one, but it’s my worst seller. Is there any recent trend that you’re looking forward to making fun of but haven’t yet? I’m really into reading about wellness right now. It’s overtaking fashion in a lot of ways, so I’m thinking a lot about that right now. Do you have any other projects in the works? I’m working on a book with Simon & Schuster, which will be out sometime this coming fall. Everything is
due in April. They’ve been pushing me to do longer essays to accompany my drawings, so I’ve been writing a lot more. I usually have longer ideas in my head and I always have to whittle them down to a phrase for Instagram, so it’s been interesting. Where can you be found during Fashion Week? In bed watching a lineup of Turner Classic movies and RuPaul’s Drag Race on an iPad, eating Indian food. Usually, wearing pilled Champion sweatpants and a Larry Bird T-shirt with green knee socks. Mario Badescu pink stuff zit cream is not necessary to complete the look, but it does add a nice pop of color. Have you ever tried to get curry and red wine out of a comforter? Truly challenging. It really soaks in! ß
fashion obsessions, a comparison Vetements hoodie
Life of Pablo Hoodie
“Truly, madly, deeply, neither.”
Gucci loafers
Stella McCartney Elyse Platforms
“Gucci loafers, now and forever, amen.”
Alessandro Michele’s world
Karl Lagerfeld’s world
“Alessandro for president, comptroller, adopted beloved uncle, and mentor.”
Lululemon
Sweaty Betty
“Is this real life?”
Neville Jacobs (Marc Jacobs’ Instagramfamous dog)
Choupette (Karl Lagerfeld’s famous cat)
“Neville! I really respond to his energy and his silhouette. Also, I loathe and fear cats almost in equal measure. I assume Choupette is some sort of high priestess of the cat species, which makes her extra loathsome.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FAKENews
PAPER TRAIL
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YOU, THEN AND NOW The “new year, new you” cliché has never rang more true. How does the 2017 you stack up against your former self? BY ASHLEY BAKER
You in 2016
You in 2017
ESCAPE PLAN
ESCAPE PLAN
A long weekend in Tulum
A lifetime in Toronto
SLIM-DOWN STRATEGY
SLIM-DOWN STRATEGY
Personal training at The Dogpound
Old-school anxiety
WEEKEND MUST
GO-TO FUEL
GO-TO FUEL
Marching
Bulletproof coffee
Coal
BIGGEST FEAR The decline of the newsstand
BIGGEST FEAR Civil war
WEEKEND MUST Brunching
MEANS OF TRANSPORT
MEANS OF TRANSPORT
Uber
The A/C/E
DREAD-INDUCING READING MATERIAL The pie chart of your Amex’s annual spending report
DREAD-INDUCING READING MATERIAL
CAREER GOALS
The op-ed page of the New York Times
Transitioning into digital
CAREER GOALS
Twitter is dead
Applying to technical school
THOUGHTS ON TWITTER Twitter has risen!
NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTION
Meditate for 10 minutes a day
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTION
Avoid the psych ward at Bellevue
getty images ( 7 ) ; shutterstock ( 6 )
THOUGHTS ON TWITTER
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