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Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Collect

&Discuss

chic must

carolina’ s Tsarinas

plus! Gaga for Guido

and...

au revoir to noir!


23442_NWSP13_TheDaily_KZFINAL.indd 1


LAUNCHING OUR EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATION wITH KIRNA ZABêTE!

2/7/13 7:24 PM


MEET DURO OLOWU

The Nigerian-born, London-based designer brings his masterful mixing, a riot of color, and some fashionable friends to jcp. This March, for a limited time.

$10 – $90

#DuroOlowuForJCP


for jcp


the media

Gettin’ It Daily!

issue

view this inter will be an classic! instant

sunday, february

GRAYDON REACTS!

ow

Front R

50 shades

DVF

10, 2013

What did you think of your cover? I’m surprised. The picture is way too big, but my friends will get a kick out of it. It’s nice. What was George Wayne’s toughest question? He didn’t have any tough questions. We sign his paycheck. He went pretty easy on me. He didn’t ask me about sex. He’s still not getting a raise? No! He’s overpaid. Anna Scott Carter: I have to take the issue home and show the kids!

plus!

tonchi stefano an needlem deborah nwider Anne Fule cia nina gar z zale Alex gon ls linda wel aco cav l pau th carol smi th emily smi han Robin giv llips Anne phi connie man Ariel Fox er web Annette picardie justine mouzat virginie eford dan wak

of don r g ay His tête-à-tête

yne orge wa

with ge

your daily dose

MEDIA MAELSTROM!

Katherine McPhee

SCENE

It was a newsie reunion at the DvF show, as Rose, Diller, and Sawyer celebrated all things Diane and confabbed over our latest issue, which featured the Vanity Fair EIC in full force on its cover. Plus…DISCUSS: Marc’s show postponed due to a tardy delivery of fabric samples from Italy; Love’s Katie Grand said of the decision to push back the show time: “Everyone sat there depressed, thinking, ‘This is the worst thing that could happen to us!’”

GIRL, INTERRUPTED! With Diane Sawyer

This is our Media Issue! What do you think? That’s Graydon Carter in extreme close up. I like that. [Charlie Rose sits down two seats away to say hello to Sawyer.] Afterwards all the journalists in the issue jello wrestle, right? [A fan interrupts: “You are amazing! You’re Diane Sawyer a wonderful woman.” Sawyer thanks fan.] You’re very popular today! You and DvF… [Another person interrupts to offer praise.] You’re getting a lot of fashion love! I called central casting. Okay...let’s finally talk about DvF… I love coming to this show because her clothes lend you a confidence that you didn’t know you needed. It’s all about being the most alive you can be. It’s as if she’s saying to everyone here, let’s just reach for the horizons. Her theme this year is glam rock. What’s glam rock about you? I don’t know if DEEP THOUGHTS! we do glam rock in news, but I’d like to think in another life… Is there anything glam rock about you? My life is more rocky than glam. FRONT ROW What’s your best interLIAISONS! viewing tip? Chelsea Handler and Engage and listen. André Balazs We don’t see you in this neck of the woods often… Chelsea: I don’t make a habit of it. My lover asked for my accompaniment. André: Diane’s an old friend.

With Charlie Rose

WITH TOMMY HILFIGER

Julianne Moore

STEFANO TONCHI’S

Carly Simon moment on his Daily media issue story: “I have not read it yet, but I was happy with the picture. I’m vain.”

SPOUSAL JITTERS! With Barry Diller

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Ingrid and Sandy ribbing Graydon Carter about being on the cover. They loved it.

A moment with JULIANNE MOORE at tommy Hilfiger

CO-ED CHATTER!

Where’s the most stylish campus? Oxford University. If you went back to college, what would you major in? Art history, because I never took it!

SPOTTED!

What would you be doing on this snowy Sunday eve if you weren’t here? Drinking wine! Tommy’s set looks like a library! Are you a frequent library goer? I looooove the library. I grew up going to the library! Unfortunately, a lot of my local libraries don’t have all the books I want. It’s really tough! I bring my daughter to the 42nd Street library, because they have a great children’s section. What’s your earliest Hilfiger memory? Gosh! I remember meeting his daughter, Ally, when she was nine-years-old. How crazy is your NYFW sched? It’s not really aggressive; I try to only do what I feel like doing, so I have fun with it.

ARtaD E H R E OV king photog backs ge

Do you get nervous for her on show day? Of course I do! I want it to be good, and it was! What’s the most rock and roll thing about you? My past!

g e tty im a g e s ( 4 ) ; p a t r ickmcmu l l a n . com ( 2 ) ; bi l ly f a r r e l l ( 3 ) ; F I RS T V I E W ( 3 )

Frumpy-loo ger, to a reporter: “I’m Hilfi at Tommy of buying d the idea n u ro day. a g in kick socks, one r e g fi il H y m some Tom !” at be wild? th ’t n ld u Wo


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The front row Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO

Burt Reynolds

Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Deputy Editor Eddie Roche

your daily dose Sex, Sugar, and Rock ‘n Roll…

Joanna Coles

HEARD:

Zac Posen

Rumor has it that Cosmo is going to recreate the iconic Burt Reynolds spread with a fresh face. Suggestions? “That was an unforgettable moment. I vote for Johnny Depp. I prefer a man, not a boy.” —Mia Moretti “Tom Hardy. He’s good!” —Nick Wooster, JCP creative director “David Beckham or 50 Cent. He’s like really built, right?” —Teri Agins “Maybe Obama, because he’s quite sexy. He’s very sexy, even.” —Olivier Zahm “I wouldn’t want to recommend anyone I have respect for because I think that’s cheesy!” —Tommy Hilfiger “From a P.R. standpoint? They should do Ryan Gosling. He didn’t do People’s sexiest man of the year, he didn’t do any of that, so he might as well do the full spread. Full being the key word.” —Harry Brant

Ryan Gosling

Sweet tooth! With Cynthia Rowley, at her brand-new boutique

Designer-ese! “It’s an individual strong woman. She can be soft and she can be structured, but it’s always with strong femininity. She has power. And she enjoys dressing. And she loves the codes of luxury reinvented. And she’s delicious—like having a great bottle of wine, the colors. A Vermeer color palette.”

Let’s talk about the new store... We signed the lease on December 20th. Cutting it close. I do not f*ck around. You can quote me on that. Why did you want to sell candy too? We have an initiative for employees with entrepreneurial ideas—an explosion went off in my head when I heard this idea.

A MOMENT WITH… RALPH RUCCI What drives you crazy? Boredom, inefficiency, deceit, lack of integrity, slovenliness… Tell us a secret. I’m a very obsessive compulsive man. What makes you jump for joy? Peace of mind and privacy. Do you get recognized a lot? Yes, people stop me on the street and send me notes in the mail—very moving notes that I save in files and take out when I’m not feeling my best. But I’m not a rock star fashion designer. I like to keep it that way. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m

EARD OVERH enter:

C At Lincoln ke home li e ’r u o “I get it! Y r homo on o … e on the rang Gan —Stephen the range.” y chic to a countr rg be Derek Blas

TALKING BFFs!

With Donna Karan

Love your ‘90s DKNY revival with Opening Ceremony. How would you describe yourself in the ‘90s? I think I’m still in the ‘90s. I didn’t grow up! You and Patti Cohen have been friends forever. She’s really me. How did you meet? We lived in Fire Island and played tennis together. I was working at Anne Klein. Patti was bored and loved clothes. She asked me if she could work there and I said sure! She’s better at tennis. What do you do when you’re not working? We’re always at work, but we do go to the Hamptons together. Sometimes it’s good to have separate time. What famous duo would you compare yourselves to? Thelma and Louise. [Patti: We have a car. We go together!] g e t t y i ma g e s ( 6 ) ; pa t r i c k mcm u llan . c o m ( 1 ) ; b i lly f arr e ll ( 2 )

Executive Editor Christopher Tennant

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Senior Editors Maria Denardo, Sarah Horne Grose Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Writer Jenna Sauers Art Director Teresa Platt Photographer Giorgio Niro Senior Designer Dawn Sebti Photo Editors Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros Production & Distribution Director Allison Coles Imaging Specialist George Maier Copy and Research Editors Joey Meyer, Stefanie Schwalb, Christy Walker, Matt Weingarden Production Manager Timothy McVicker Imaging Assistants Megan Herlihy, Mihai Calin Simion

Vice President, Publisher Louis A. Sarmiento Advertising Director Hannah Sinclair Southeast Sales Director Brenda Laham Marketing Director Fred Miketa Social Media Director Ashley Tschudin Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Assistant Anjali Raja Distribution Manager Shawn Brennan Distribution Supervisor Benjamin Woldoff

To advertise in The Daily, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: sarmiento@dailyfrontrow.com

DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

On the cover: Daphne Groeneveld Carolina Herrera Fall 2013 shot by Frazer Hamison/Getty Images


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Today’s Pick Feel like you can work it like Jessica Hart? Submit your own look using the hashtag #vfbestdressed on photos you post to Instagram and Twitter, or upload photos to vf.com/bestdressed.

CR FASHION BOOK SCOOP!

your daily dose

MEOW MIX Glamour was feeling feline this NYFW: The mag opened a “Cat Fashion Concept” pop-up in the MePa and hosted a quartet of events inspired by kittens on the runway, in Karl’s home, and beyond. (The pop-up’s hashtag du week: #NoBitches.) Get it?

Carine’s sophomore issue of CR Fashion Book drops stateside on February 28, (circ’s up from 50K to 65K.) To mark the occasion, Roitfeld will be hobnobbing with a small coterie of V.I.C.s at a top-secret Park Ave. resto this eve. Are you invited?

Anne Christensen and Peter Som

PAST CURFEW!

SCENE

Discuss! What was your very first fashion statement (for better or worse)? “I stole my grandmother’s Elsa Peretti red lipstick and refused to give it back. Then I doused myself in Shalimar.” — Michelle Violy Harper “I was 10: a yellow oxford shirt, a burgundy v-neck, and black jeans.” — Hal Rubenstein “An Alice in Wonderland-esque outfit that I refused to take off for, like, 18 months.” — Elettra Wiedemann “This crazy Gucci silk blouse; it may have been my father’s.” —Adam Glassman

With Cindi Leive What’s your NYFW curfew?
 I’m generally a home-before-midnight kind of girl. The problem is, once I get home I’m completely wired! I’ll watch an entire season of Homeland. Then all of the sudden, it’s 6:00 a.m. 
 What are your daily must-dos? I exfoliate, and I tell my kids that I love them. Is that too dorky?

“While I’m a dog person at heart, you gotta give it up for anything that always lands on its feet! After 20 years in fashion and beauty, I’m also down with anything that has nine lives.”—Bill Wackermann,

Because we just can’t get enough... We hear you’re ballet obsessed! You’ve been taking private lessons for a year? I’d love to be a ballet star in my next life! Who’s your ideal dance partner? My son, Vladimir. Would you learn to salsa? There’s no dance style I wouldn’t learn! I love to love! I love to dance! Who should do a dancethemed capsule collection? Riccardo Tisci! He’s got passion for music—and the talent to make spectacular clothes.

on cats

S Indochine INDISCRETION

Front-Row Beauty:

YOUR WILDEST NIGHTS AT THE DOWNTOWN HOTSPOT

Barely There Lips

Robbie Myers: “A very long time ago. I ended up at Indochine at

the end of the night; that’s all I’ll say…It was at a point in my life when I was going out until daytime.”

 Joe Zee: “Not printable! And it may have involved the bathroom, as well as the phone booth that is or is not still back there, and may or may not have involved the last banquette.”

 Andrew Saffir: “Calvin Klein threw a 21st birthday party for his now-ex-boyfriend, Nick [Gruber], two or three years ago. It was very, very trippy and fun. We’re old now—we’re not 21 anymore!”

Your Inspiration: Farrah Fawcett You Saw it At… Y-3 Victoria Beckham Tommy Hilfiger The shows continue! And so do the lips trends. The obsession with burgundy wine shades (think Zac Posen and Derek Lam) returns along with a parade of neutrals. Snag this minimalist and effortless look using Maybelline New York’s Color Whisper Collection by Color Sensational. It’s a weightless gel that will give you just a slight hint of shine and color. Virtually translucent, it comes in 20 tints but try Some Like It Taupe or Go Nude for a truly runway-inspired pout. Farrah would approve. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

BALLET BREAK! With Carine Roitfeld

SUBURBAN NOSTALGIA! With Whit Pozgay Miss anything about your Arizona childhood? Sunbaking! I grew up in the pool. If you lived in the ‘burbs now, what would you be doing? I’d probably be a kooky craftsperson, running an art school. Victoria Beckham

Tommy Hilfiger

m a u r i z i o b av u t t i a n d b r i g i t t e n i e d e r m a i r f o r C R Fa s h i o n b o o k . c o m ; s e r g e i p o l u n i n b y g u s va n s a n t; g e t t y i m a g e s ( 5 ) ; p a t r ic k m c m u l l a n ( 5 ) ; b i l ly f a r r e l l ( 2 )

SUBURB


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Style Session Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn Nick Rohatyn

Duro manicures galore! Duro Olowu Kim Vernon

Peter Davis

Elysze Held Jamie Greenhouse and Lizzie Boswell

A shopper on the hunt!

c i t s a t o r Du Brian Robinson

Ikram Goldman

Isabel Blumberg

nday JCP and Duro Olowu’s weekThe Duro conquest continues! On Su ctacular private shopping event end of celebration continued with a spe ut was fab, with Olowu’s chic fans at the Stone Rose Lounge. The turno Ogunnaike, and Ikram Goldman like Tracy Reese, Amanda Ross, Lola A playful vibe dominated, with all stopping by to get their Duro fix! ic Avenue cocktails, and hugs all Duro-inspired manicures, tasty Organ Prints? Not us... around. Who can resist the Prince of

Lynn Yaeger

Lola Ogunnaike, Amanda Ross, Thelma Golden, Teri Agins, Mia Moretti, Fern Mallis, Tracy Reese, and Emma Snowdon-Jones

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

S y lv a i n G a b o u r y/ p a t r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m : s t e p h a n i a ( d u r o m a n i c u r e ) g e t t y i m a g e s ( 1 4 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 5 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m


collect

&discuss

brides

coming this

april! At bridal fashion week

PLUS!

runway reports from the editors of

contact: advertising@chicreport.com


ACHIEVE

BALANCE

B E RG D O R F G O O D M A N - S A K S F I F T H AV E N U E P O U R L AV I C T O I R E . C O M


runway

Fall 2013

carolina

herrera Courting the classics. Who better to make us long for a more genteel era than the inimitable Mrs. Herrera? Her insouciant Hepburn-esque suits and refined gowns (nipped just so at the waist) may recall a time when dames were dames, but they are irresistibly now.

GETTY IMAGES (5) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M


runway

Fall 2013

diane von FUrstenberg Disco darlings. If anyone knows how to do the 70’s trend, it’s the queen of the era herself. All of the hits were there: Glam metallic pants, colorful coats with oversize fur collars, a groovy day-toevening maxi dress, and the iconic wrap dress, bien sur. Bianca Jagger, eat your heart out!

dkny

Elegance with an edge. Sophisticated city girls will look chic hitting the streets in the simple, but strong angles worked into the fabric of this collection. Flowing chiffon dresses over pants toned down the toughness for a dash of feminine flair.

TY U BEA trend

rows} B d e n {Defi er FOR ill otte w york charl e new n i l Maybe

GETTY IMAGES (11) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M


BFA

Images Matter.

BFAnyc.com


runway

Fall 2013 Zac

POSEn It’s a glam grand slam! Posen’s pretty ladies paraded through The Plaza in his signature gorgeous gowns and dressy daywear; an autumnal apricot peplum top with a tweed skirt, and a burgundy cowlneck column gown with a billowing cape. Le drame!

Chado ralph

rucci

The bold and the beautiful. Color covered Ralph Rucci’s radiant runway in ravishing voluminous lime green, glittering royal purple, copper and punchy pink. What a statement chéries, for your uptown milieu.

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

thakoon Springing into Fall. Thakoon’s new palette was positively pastel. Skirt suits and structural coats followed the fashion flock but his flirty feminine looks gave a fresh new wink on this season’s runway.

GETTY IMAGES (19)


runway

Fall 2013

tommy

hilfiger Check this out! Preppy Americana by way of Britain in the swinging 60’s was Hilfiger’s take on the current menswear craze. Prince of Wales paired with houndstooth and herringbone was the coolest mix.

victoria

beckham Rockin’ the block. Color blocking was the breakout look for Mrs. Beckham. Simple, slim cut, and slightly sultry is the vibe for Victoria’s vixen.

Lela

Rose

Flights of fancy. Texture took shape on this designer’s rosey runway said to be inspired by Grimm’s fairytales. Light fabrics like chiffon and feathers morphed into pretty pink ombrés and pewter dresses were accented with airy lace. Dazzlingly dreamy!

GETTY IMAGES (17) FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M


GuidO’s Greatest

runway heroes

Hits

How did a self-described “flunk-out” from Dorset become the biggest beauty phenom since the chignon? Mousse maestro Guido Palau explains. BY MARIA DENARDO

ll 2012 Versace Fa

Jean Paul Gaultier, Spring 2013

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

How did you get into lady’s hair? I grew up in Dorset, a seaside town in England that I really wanted to get out of. I didn’t have massive expectations for myself, and I didn’t exactly hit it off with the educational system, so at 17, I left! I backpacked through Europe, lived in a commune in Denmark, and found work as a DJ. So, hairstyling wasn’t a lifelong goal? Not at all. But when I got back to England, some of my friends were hairdressers, and I thought, ‘Oh, I could do that!’ So I applied to work at the Vidal Sassoon salon in London to be an apprentice. It’s the best place to learn, but it was very strict. And in no time, you got fired, right? Hey, I was still a bit cheeky at 19! [Laughs] It wasn’t until I got a job assisting another stylist on a shoot that I figured out this was what I wanted to do with my life. I liked creating, and it was exciting to be with models and photographers on set. From there, it was a slow climb. Have you been back to Vidal Sassoon since? Later in my career, I was asked to interview Vidal and I told him about being fired. We had a laugh about it. After that if he was hosting a dinner in New York, he’d invite me. I liked knowing I was on his radar. What was the hair game like back then? London was exploding, and there was a real youth surge. There were loads of new magazines, like The Face and i-D, and they were covering street style, which hadn’t really been done yet. In some ways, the industry was more elite because it was smaller. The big wigs were really big and you felt really small, like you were never going to make it. What was your big breakthrough? I met David Sims during that time, who was an assistant photographer at a hair salon where I worked. We hit it off and became friends, and I started working with him more and more. We captured a time of flux, when fashion moved from the supermodel to the grunge period. What did you learn from David? When I first started out, I was still copying other people’s styles. He really encouraged me to bring out my own. But we weren’t the only ones experimenting with grunge—there were probably three other photographers, two hairstylists, and a couple of makeup artists in London who had their fingers on the pulse. We were sneered at by the old guard.

Until Calvin Klein got a hold of you! Calvin Klein was the man! He brought us over to work for him on his runway, which was so intimidating. I was like, ‘Are you sure?’ Did you stay in touch? I still bump into him sometimes. He’s very charming. When did you meet Kate Moss? In England, at a party, when she was 15. Of course, she wasn’t Kate Moss as we know her now. She was just Kate, this girl in our group who was always wearing Westwood. How has your relationship changed over the years? I don’t see her as often as I used to, since she lives in London and I’m in New York. But it was great to see her at her wedding. We always have a laugh at each other’s expense—she’s very self-deprecating. She’ll kid me about something I’m working on, and I’ll kid her that she’s still modeling. Why is the bond between a model and her hairstylist so special? I think it’s because you’re touching the girl a lot on set— always running your fingers through her hair. Whose hair are you running your fingers through these days? It’s hard to keep up! I still think of Raquel Zimmermann as a new model. Unfortunately, now there are tons of new models at runway shows, many of whom don’t speak English. It’s hard to connect, and you feel for them because you don’t want them to think you’re rude. I’m still friends with a lot of the older ones, though, like Naomi, Kate, and Stella. I met Naomi when she was 15. We grew up together! I’m sure girls now look at me and think, ‘Who’s that old guy?’ Is 15 too young to start modeling? There’s a 15-year-old that’s very young, and a 15-yearold that can sing on stage in front of a room full of people. At 15, I couldn’t, but did anyone question Kate or Naomi? Or Miley Cyrus? What do you like about working with Stella? I remember working with her on a Versace campaign for Gianni. She had black hair, and we bleached it for hours. It wasn’t pretty—a lot of her hair ended up in the basin—but she’s great at being open to cutting her hair or dying it. That’s what keeps hairstylists and photographers so interested. She’s part of the creative process. In the three years you worked with Richard Avedon,


Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2012

t

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2013

Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

Alexander McQueen Spring 2010

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 2013

what surprised you most? He was absolutely obsessed with his own hair, in a charming way. Every day, he’d come in and ask me what I thought about it. Then, we’d blow it out and he’d look at it again and ask, ‘Do you think it needs a little trim?’ How long have you worked with Marc Jacobs? For 10 years now. We have a great rapport, and he’s very giving. A couple of years ago, he wanted all the models’ hair to be different, based on the ‘80s nightclub scene. It was a real challenge for me, but ended up being one of my favorite shows. Marc sees his world in his way, and I’m lucky I get to see the world through his eyes. How has your aesthetic evolved over the years? The more people who tell you that your work is good, the more adventurous you become. I still learn from everyone I work with. Steven Meisel is an amazing artist, who I’ve worked with steadily for over 10 years. He’s such a professional. We’re friends, and we work together quite often, but we don’t really socialize. With artists, work is life! What projects are you proudest of? Little things make me proud, not necessarily the things people remember me for. Sometimes I’m just happy that the day went well. I almost feel old-school now, because it’s become a different business with this new set of people blogging and tweeting all the time. You’re on Twitter, aren’t you? I am, but there’s that pressure! If you’re in your 20s and 30s, it’s a part of your evolution, but it’s not a part of mine. I’m not a big tech person, and my friends and I will sometimes dis it, but you have to be involved in some way or you’re not being a part of the culture we’re living in. How would you describe your backstage style? I don’t know if I have style. I dress comfortably and shop at three places: Comme des Garçons, Thom Browne, and J.Crew. I always want to downplay being a hairdresser because of those old connotations. Like, I can’t go anywhere near leather! How do people react to your wardrobe? Donatella Versace always frowns at my Birkenstocks, and Kristen McMenamy says I look like a little boy that got dressed by his mother! What’s your most memorable hair disaster? I think people book me now because disasters don’t happen. But I’m a bit of a worrier, so I live through all the possible disasters in a sweaty night’s sleep. What new products are you into right now? I love Redken’s new range: Wax Blast, Dry Shampoo, Powder

Grip, and Control Addict. I’m a hair spray fan! I use it a lot at the shows. How many runway shows do you book a year on average? Maybe 100 or 110. My friends think that because I work hard for three weeks that I’ll have a day off, but that’s not how it goes. Right now, I’m in Paris. Tomorrow I go to London. Then New York the next day. I’m still enjoying it! Any hobbies? I picked up pottery last year, and I try to work in a Flywheel. I really envy people who can just pick up a book. It’s hard for me to turn off my head. Out put you on their ‘Most Eligible Bachelors’ list. Did it change your life? It didn’t, actually. I wish it had more! I didn’t even know I was on the list. Maybe next time I should include an email address. How would you describe your state of mind? Not so cheeky. I’ve grown into myself. I actually feel more myself now than ever. At what point in your career did you feel like you’d arrived? I’ve always felt insecure about my creativity. When you’re freelance, you wonder if you’re going to get booked again. It doesn’t matter what you did last week. It’s what I’m about to do that’s important. It’s very stressful, but people are kind about my work. Obviously, I know I must be good at my job because I work with great people and I keep getting booked, but I always want to do better. I never thought that this high school flunk out was going to be successful. I feel like maybe I can’t turn a good job down, since life’s been so good to me!

Louis Vuitton Spring 2010

g etty (6 ) ; f irstview ( 5 ) ; C O U R T E S Y

Prada Fall 2012

Alexande r Wang Spring 2 010


Younger statesman

Mr.

Softie

Designer Greg Chait started his career in the music industry, got his feet wet with Ksubi, then spun a cashmere blanket business into fashion gold with The Elder Statesman. Anna’s got his number. Do you? BY MARIA DENARDO photography by giorgio niro True or false: In college you interned for Whitney Houston. True! I had this romantic notion of managing bands, so I interned with her internal team during her last big tour when things really started going off the rails. After that, I interned at Arista Records. They had me stapling papers for some miserable girl who was sorting through demos, so I made an appointment with the boss and told him I wanted to shadow him. He took me under his wing. You were in college at the time. What happened after graduation? I lived in Australia for a year and then moved to L.A. and worked with the Firm, a management company that had every top act on the charts. It was the kind of place where you picked up the phone and Steve Jobs was on the other line. Is that how you connected with the Ksubi brand? I became friends with the Ksubi guys when I lived in Australia. They called me when they were visiting. At the end of the week, they left me their collection and said, ‘You’re going to work with us.’ I had no idea what I was doing. The collection sat on my floor for a month before I started dragging it around. We grew the business out of my living room at night while I worked at the Firm during the day. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Were you fearful about making the jump to fashion? It was a lifestyle change, but I’ve been thrown in the deep end my whole career, which has alleviated the fear of what may or may not happen. I liked that surfing was a part of their daily lives. When you love the beach, your goal is not necessarily to own a seven-bazillion-dollar house. Why did you leave Ksubi in 2007? We were bought out. They gave me the option of staying, but I thought it was a natural time to go, so I thought I’d open a juice bar. Naturally. Did you? My brother was in the food distribution business, and juice was such a big part of the culture in Australia. We had a deposit down for a place on Rose Ave. in Venice, but I walked away from it for personal reasons. When did cashmere come into play? Around that time, I stumbled upon my first cashmere blanket. I fell in love with cashmere, but couldn’t find the right blanket. I eventually found these people in the Pacific Northwest who were experts in hand-spinning and knitting. I had them make two beautiful blankets for me. How did two blankets turn into The Elder Statesman? I really just thought I’d sell them once a year in seaside villages or small towns in the mountains, but word spread and Tommy Perse from Maxfield, who I’d worked with at Ksubi, met with me and told me he wanted to sell them. I said, ‘These are mine, but I’m happy to make you more!’ He’s a very direct guy and said, ‘Do you want me to sell them or not?’ He sold them both in two days. I named my company The Elder Statesman in honor of my brother, who passed away. I found producers in Italy, made a collection, presented in Paris, and walked out with 12 stores my first season. I’ve been extremely lucky. How do you find the cashmere at, say, J.Crew or Magaschoni? It’s all personal preference. The way The Elder Statesmen approaches something is different than, say, Loro Piana. It’s all an interpretation of something that’s been done long before any of us were around and will be done long after we are gone. What sets The Elder Statesman apart in the cashmere world? It’s not just a product, it’s a way of life. There’s a way of doing things, from the colors we choose to the stores we gravitate to. We’re not pushovers. We’re fair and honorable. I want that to translate through the clothes. What’s the hardest part of your job? Production is the greatest challenge in any business, but we don’t just cut and run when it gets difficult. My accountant will probably tell me I should! One t-shirt of ours can go through hell and back before it even gets to the stores. What would you say to those who think paying $300 for a knit cap is absurd? I heard this quote once: ‘I can’t afford to not buy the best.’ That’s rational. Do you really want to save a few bucks to put crappy stuff on your body? Many times people who want to spend less end up buying more and spending a hell of a lot more than if they would have bought the $1,000 sweatshirt. Who’s your favorite Elder Statesman in the fashion industry? I’ve met a lot of amazing people. Diane von Furstenberg is pretty rad. Did you send Anna a thank-you blanket for that CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award? No comment.

Chait’s Fall 2013 Collection

h a r e l r i n t z l e r / pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m


BUSINESS & FASHION TOGETHER IS NEVER TOO

MATCHY MATCHY www.limcollege.edu/img Business and fashion come together in a unique way at LIM College. For nearly 75 years, we’ve been educating fashion’s business leaders. With hundreds of the industry’s top companies as partners, and with expert faculty, rigorous academics leading to both undergraduate and graduate degrees, and our prime location in the world’s fashion capital, this is a hands-on, professional education— WHERE BUSINESS MEETS FASHION®—unlike anywhere else.

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Chic -ish

Aima Indigo Height: 5’6” Bust: 34B Waist: 28 Dress: 10-12 Hair: Black/Purple Eyes: Brown Skills: Speaks Spanish, French, and Romanian, roller skating, swimming, jeweler, artist

Virginia Fanshawe

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Height: 5’6’’ Bust: 36B Waist: 30 Dress: 10-12 Hair: Blonde Eyes: Blue Interests: Art and photography

Freaks and Geeks

Antonio “Popeye” Francis

Always wanted to be a model? Never had what it takes? Since 1969, the London-based agency, Ugly Models, has been working with every shape and size. The Daily rang up owner Marc French to find out why. BY EDDIE ROCHE

W

hat exactly is Ugly Models? It’s a character modeling agency. We’ve got every character from fat to thin, to too large to too small. Do you have to be ugly to get signed? You’ve got to look a certain way and you’ve got to be comfortable in your own skin. What Ugly is all about is keeping people real and not trying to be a follower of fashion. We want you to be exactly the way you are. Someone might call a person with a big nose, stick-out ears, or buck teeth ugly, but I just call them unique. How many Uglies do you have signed? We have around 1,000 models in our book. Hundreds of thousands of models have been with us over the years, though. We have a big database. Do you know all their names? My people do. We interview everybody and we try to become their friends so we know what they’re all about so we can sell them better. You were a model yourself, yes? I was. I was also a dancer and a gymnast. But I always sort of found it a bit boring. When I came across Ugly it was fantastic because I got to do jobs where I could tumble and do backflips. No one could do that stuff back then. And you own the company now? I worked as a model with them and then my fashion agency found out and said I had to make a choice: Be one or the other. I chose to stay here at Ugly. I used to help out in the office and hang out and jobs would come up and they’d say, “Marc, you should go up for that!” I loved it so much I just hung around for, like, two years. I would come here and just be a nuisance, really. The partners saw that I loved what I was doing and offered me a division of my own and I set FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

that up and bought the partners out and now I own the whole lot. Is it hard to get these models good money? My models are probably on a higher rate than regular fashion models. They are so unique. You can’t get someone who looks the way our guys look, or act the way our guys act. So I stick by my rates, and I won’t go down, either. What kinds of rates are we talking? If you are in a commercial, you can earn 10 grand a day. Otherwise, we average you out to 100 pounds an hour—750 pounds a day. What are some of the more out-there types you work with? It varies. I mean, if you’re looking for a giant, right now we’ve got a guy who is 7’ 6”. He’s absolutely awesome. We’ve got the tallest, the smallest, the fattest, and the thinnest. Our overweight guys are really happy to be the way they are. Who’s your oldest model? Beatrice Young, who is 102. Last year she did a campaign for Liberty and she sat in a little rocking chair. It was amazing. Are you constantly on the lookout for models? I drive my family insane. Wherever I am or whatever I’m doing I’m looking for people. And if I do like them I’ll go up to them and say, “I’ve got a modeling agency that’s called Ugly, but please look me up before you get offended.” But most people have heard of it. Have you worked with any big names? Jean Paul Gautier. Mario Testino comes to us all the time. He loves our models. If Kate Moss came through your door today would you sign her? Probably. Actually, no. I don’t think I really have a market for her. If I had the clientele, I would.

Height: 5’7” Chest: 51” Waist: 48” Collar: 19½” Hair: Black Eyes: Brown

Nina Kate Height: 5’7” Bust: 30FF Waist: 26” Dress: 10 Hair: Black/Blue Wig Eyes: Brown Skills: Body burning, fire eating and fire breathing

New Face: Txu Txo

a l l c o u r t e s y m r . u g ly


In Over One Million Affluent Homes

D


WICKED WEATHENR! EDITIO

Chic-Overs

We know it’s nasty out there, ladies, but must you always look so...noir? You talk the talk, now walk the walk!

Derek Lam

Chado Ralph Rucci Prada

Tonne Goodman Who needs sleeves? Take this look Derek-tly to the front row!

an Deborah Needlem All together now: You. Are. A. Fashion. Editrix. Now, say it in Italian!

Diane von Furstenberg

ary

Cindy Weber-Cle

Don’t be jaded, Cindy, be...InStyle.

Nina Garcia Project Rucci works for you, non? Very queen bee.

Jill Stuart

BCBG

Altuzarra Custo Barcelona

g Burke Meredith Mellin Cuter than a bag of cats. Have LSD set one aside for you on Moda! fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

Susan Kaufman Two words: Pink astrakhan.

Virginia Smith

Robbie Myers

It’s the first and “Last Look” of the season. Poach it before Anna does!

Give ‘em Elle in Spanish featherette, bebé!

f ir s t v iew ( 5 ) ; g ett y i m ag e s (4) ; b i l ly farre l l (4) ; patrick m c m u l l an . co m ( 3)


Ready, Willing, and

Valuable Why are Berkeley College interns and graduates so well prepared? • Students learn current practices and the latest technologies from accomplished faculty, many of whom are working professionals with market experience • Advisory Boards help ensure relevant program and course content, based on marketplace needs • Internships or job-related assignments are required in all programs, providing students with valuable, practical experience

Jianqiang Wu - Berkeley College Student Fashion Marketing and Management, Class of 2015 “As an international student, I love studying in the heart of New York City, the fashion capital of the world. Small class sizes allow me to get to know classmates and professors on a deeper level. I’m confident that what I’m learning today will take me far in my future career in fashion.”

For more information,

call 800-446-5400, ext. BFN

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