friday, febru ary
Front Row Collect &discuss
darling duo! heidi & michaelâ€™s
wildly chic night out
the secret to your success! models, moguls, kingmakers...
p o r t r a i t: t h e pau l g r e e n . c o m ; s t o r e : a l l c o u r t e s y
MEET DURO OLOWU
The Nigerian-born, London-based designer brings his masterful mixing, a riot of color, and some fashionable friends to jcp. This March, for a limited time.
$10 â€“ $90
The ribbon cutting
WHAT YOU WORE!
John Legend Chrissy Teigen
Crystal Renn Doutzen Kroes
your daily dose
at the e yl st in d te ra leb ce rk Yo w Ne ut to Le amfAR Gala Wednesday night. SCENE
AmfAR, which honored Heidi Klum, Janet Jackson, and Kenneth Cole for their efforts to fight AIDS, rocked Cipriani Wall Street. The gowns, the dish, the magic! SJP, Ashley Greene, and Poppy Delevingne stunned, but our cover stars took the cake. Per Michael Kors, who came as Heidi’s date, the supe’s honor was much deserved: “There’s an idea that people in fashion only care about looking great. The reality is that Heidi always looks great, but Patricia Clarkson she’s always thinking of other people. Tonight is a perfect example. She reminds people that Cheyenne Jackson the AIDS crisis is not over and we’re still dealing with it. It’s still a global epidemic.”
Fern Mallis Lindsay Lohan
D EAR H R E o V W “ O -carpet reporters: rk-. If
A Moment with… Michael Kors & Heidi Klum
We just turned 10. What were you like at 10? l “Oh, my God! That was half my life ago. I was probably just about as tall as I am now—maybe I was a bit shorter, probably around five eight. So I think I was about the same as I am now, maybe just a little bit shorter.” —Karlie Kloss l “I was a tomboy. I only wore dungarees.” —Lily Donaldson l “I lived in Washington State, out in the woods. My family was very poor—we had two goats named Harmony and Melody.” —Cheyenne Jackson l “I had a massive crush on a boy named Paul Goldberg. I don’t even know what happened to him.” —Fern Mallis
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FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
YOU DAZZLED: Poppy Delevingne —Chanel; Sarah Jessica Parker— Maison Martin Margiela; Ashley Greene—Giambattista Valli; Patricia Clarkson and Karlie Kloss—Michael Kors; Crystal Renn—Zac Posen
Sarah Jessica Parker
n’ pressi h! s e l f the erg mb o o l B Mayor T PAS skippED he red ON t REPORTERS PUT on THE T U carpet, B OR HEIDI... BRAKES F
Do you guys go on a lot of dates together? Heidi: No, but we should. I’d like a pajama date at home in bed. With a bucket of popcorn. Michael: I need a big German meal in bed with Heidi. I dream of that. Heidi: We’ll watch an old musical—Michael loves them—or go out dancing. Michael: She can dance. I can’t. I’m proof positive that all gay men can’t dance. I can sing, though. But she can sing and dance and cook a lot better than I can. Heidi: I can cook! Michael: I’ve had your soup!
Julia Restoin Roitfeld
ge t t y i mages ( 1 4 ) ; pa t r i ckmcmulla n . com ( 5 ) ; bfa n yc . com
HEIDIKLUMFRAGRANCES.COM - FACEBOOK.COM/HEIDIKLUM
GOING POSTAL! The USPS is cutting off Saturday deliveries. Discuss!
“Does anyone use mail anymore? E-mail!” —Prabal Gurung “I’m not happy. I like the mail. I’m old-fashioned. The mail is fun.” —Lynn Yaeger “It’ll be one day a week I don’t get bills. That’s pretty much what I get in the mail.” —Fern Mallis
Dreaming of making it big as a supermodel? Every year, some underpaid editor at Forbes ranks the highest-earning supermodels in the world. Here’s a peek at their top five in 2012! 1. Gisele Bundchen $45 million 2. Kate Moss $9.2 million 3. Natalia Vodianova $8.6 million 4. Adriana Lima $7.3 million 5. Doutzen Kroes $6.9 million
A Moment with…
your daily dose It’s wild and woolly out there, darlings! Stay warm (and chic)! Dreaming of making it as a major couturier? When John Galliano was at Dior, his take-home was more than $4,236,700 a year
On Tuesday, John Varvatos and a host of his fabulous friends (think Mick Rock, Vincent Piazza, and Vanessa Hudgens as well as media darlings Cecilia Dean, Jim Moore, and Mary Alice Stephenson) kicked off Fashion Week with a party at Houston Hall to celebrate the relaunch of his website, JohnVarvatos.com.
Your Inspiration: Kate Moss
You Saw It At… Narciso Rodriguez DKNY Ralph Lauren
Maybe you don’t possess the supreme supe genes of La Moss, but that shouldn’t stop you from shining at the shows. The paps’ flashes bring out every little flaw, so make Maybelline New York’s Instant Age Rewind: Eraser Dark Spot Concealer + Treatment a permanent staple in your Fash Week beauty kit. Not only does it deliver Vitamin C and highly concentrated pigments to your skin, instantly evening out the tone, but with continuous use, dark spots will even start to fade. And at only $9.99, why not give this magic wand a shot?
A t en Mom with…
“We’re not that f#@king camp! Maybe a kiss or two, but no bloody smiles.” —MICK ROCK ON THE USE OF EMOTICONS IN HIS TEXTUAL RELATIONSHIP WITH PAL JOHN VARVATOS
Front-Row Beauty: Oh So Au Naturel Skin
Are you a flake? Flakiness is an underrated quality. Why Fashion Week? I’m more chic than you think. The forecast said 2 to 30 inches. Huh? I like to be unpredictable. People put too much of an emphasis on inches.
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g e t t y i m a g e s ( 8 ) ; f i r s t v i e w. c o m ( 2 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 3 ) ; s h u t t e r s to c k
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
W W W. N I C O L E M I L L E R . C O M
Le ALT! Xiao Wen Ju
your daily dose G IT! IN K A M E R A S R E T S IC H C : $ $$ DISCUSS!
Marc is to Diet Coke as Cynthia is to…Lysol? ☛ And what do we think of ALT’s bid to be the next Oprah? (We know an audition when we see one, sweetie!) Neiman-aut Ken Downing is on board: “I’d love for Kim Kardashian and Cher to be his first guests, because they’re separated at birth.” Sarah Sophie Flicker, too: “Did you see his interview with that little girl from Beasts of the Southern Wild?” We did.
Hanne Gaby Odiele
A Moment with… Gossip Girl Beth Ditto
A Moment with… Calvin Klein Underwear Model Matt Terry So...about that ad! Once it aired, my phone didn’t stop ringing for 10 minutes. It was the first commercial Calvin’s ever put in the Super Bowl. Were you nervous about being in your underwear in front of 111.3 million people? I wrestled in high school. Being in a gym with tons of people looking at you builds up your comfort level. Do you get free underwear for life? I’m pretty sure it’s safe to say that.
You’re getting married this year! My dress was cheap. I really wanted a Vivienne Westwood dress [but] I just can’t spend 10 grand on a wedding dress. How much did you end up spending? I spent $1,600. I don’t think that’s bad. Any wedding details you can share? We are getting married in Hawaii. Everyone has to wear white. I was like, I don’t give a sh*t! You can wear a bathing suit as long as it’s white. I just thought it would be beautiful in all of the pictures. It’s going to be really Mother Earthy and pretty. We hear you’re obsessed with underwear. True? Obsessed! We were poor growing up. When we were kids in school we would donate cans at Christmas and then they would give them back to us because we were the needy. That was my family. I didn’t have underwear. I had to share it with my mom and my sister. Now I know if I ever go broke again, I’ll have all the underwear that I need! How many pairs do you think you have? About 250 pairs. Easily.
A Moment With Nicole Miller co-founder and CEO Bud Konheim Your story begins with a family fashion business… It goes back four generations. Pushcart to here, you know? I’m one of the immigrants Obama is talking about. How did you come to hire Nicole Miller? I picked Nicole out of 170 interviewees. Why do some young designers fail? I ask young designers, “What are you looking for?” They say, “I want to get some licensing and then go into the sunset.” Everyone’s got the attention span of a cockroach. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How has digital changed the game? We’re in a cultural revolution that I haven’t seen since the late ’60s. It’s young, young, young. We have interns here, and a subscription to Vogue for every one of them, but the copies will sit there for six months with the plastic on. It’s not relevant to them. How do big labels compete with celebrity lines? Someone asked me how I compete with designers like Marc Jacobs. I said, “Marc Jacobs! That’s a real designer who knows his way around a pair of scissors. My problem these days is Kim Kardashian.” Nicole doesn’t do porno, so we’re at a disadvantage! ko h n h e i m : g i o r g i o n i r o ; f i r s t v i e w ( 5 ) ; g e t t y i m ag e s ( 4 ) ; s h u t t e r s to c k ; a d s : c o u r t e sy
Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Deputy Editor Executive Editor Eddie Roche Christopher Tennant Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Senior Editors Maria Denardo, Sarah Horne Grose Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Writer Jenna Sauers Art Director Teresa Platt Photographer Giorgio Niro Senior Designer Dawn Sebti Photo Editors Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros Production & Distribution Director Allison Coles Imaging Specialist George Maier Copy and Research Editors Joey Meyer, Stefanie Schwalb, Christy Walker, Matt Weingarden Production Manager Timothy McVicker Imaging Assistants Megan Herlihy, Mihai Calin Simion
Vice President, Publisher Louis A. Sarmiento Advertising Director Hannah Sinclair Marketing Director Fred Miketa Social Media Director Ashley Tschudin Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Assistant Anjali Raja Distribution Manager Shawn Brennan Distribution Supervisor Benjamin Woldoff To advertise in The Daily, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
On the cover: Heidi Klum and Michael Kors, shot by Giorgio Niro.
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Model new empire
heidi takeover Itâ€™s a huge week for Heidi Klum, who was honored by amfAR Wednesday night for her work fighting AIDS, and is spending another season at the Tents with Project Runway. How does this mommy-mogul find the time? BY EDDIE ROCHE FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Congratulations on your amfAR award! I was honored for my work fighting AIDS; I’ve supported them for 13 years. Kenneth Cole called to tell me. We first collaborated with Victoria’s Secret on a big gala in Cannes. I gave a backrub to Kenneth Branagh as part of the auction. How was that? It was great! I was like, “OK! Whatever! I’ll do it!” He took his shirt off. Anything for a good cause! I like getting the message out; I’ve been all over the world at their events. Why is amfAR important to you? They’re continuously raising millions and millions of dollars to support AIDS research. It’s fantastic. Janet Jackson was also a recipient. Have you ever seen her in concert? Never! I saw her brother in concert many years ago, but I’ve never seen her. I’ve had dinner with her many times. It’s amazing to me how soft and sweet her speaking voice is. She speaks so [imitates Janet] very gentle. Do people typically understand how funny you are? Usually on Project Runway when I do funny things, they edit it out. They keep my negative criticisms in. I don’t always think that’s fair. I have to go back to the cutting room and say, “Why do you guys always keep the mean things? Why don’t you keep the funny things that make everyone laugh?” I have a good time, though. I run after Michael Kors and throw him on the floor. Why don’t they show any of that stuff? Why do they always show me being harsh on the designers? I’m easygoing. I have fun every day! How would your friends describe your sense of humor? Ask them. Hold on. Ask my friend Linda Hay! [Linda hops on the phone.] Hi Linda, how would you describe Heidi’s sense of humor? Spontaneous, dry, fast. She’s extremely witty. She’s much funnier than people know. Thanks, Linda! [Heidi gets back on phone.] You’re becoming very Martha with all these projects! Is a Heidi Klum mag on the horizon? I’ve been asked to do a magazine many times, especially in Germany. I only have so much time in the year. How many children does Martha Stewart have? Just her one daughter! I have four kids! I want to spend time with them. We normally shoot super early, so I can be home by 5:00 p.m. to bathe them and read to them. It’s not easy with four kids. I have to think about what I do with every day of the year. Things like a book or a magazine sound interesting and I’m super flattered when these things come my way, but to do a magazine every month and think of all the subjects and look at all the photos…It’s a lot of work! It’s impossible for me to do all these ventures. Why did you call your new perfume Surprise? Everyone loves a surprise! Maybe some people don’t. I do. I’ve never had a full surprise party. There’s always someone that spills the beans. Was it hard coming up with a fourth fragrance title? No. I have five more names for future fragrances. I have a book where I write thoughts and ideas. I rip things out of magazines from all over the world. I look to see if they are trademarked; I hoard them. [Laughs] It was the same way with Truly Scrumptious. I watched Chitty Chitty Bang Bang so many times and I always thought that would be a great name. I trademarked it and thought someday I’ll use that for something and now I have my line for BabiesRUs. Would you do an adult clothing line? I did one many years ago for a huge German catalog, Otto. We had swimsuits, jeans, sweaters…Now I design for A Pea in the Pod and Motherhood. I also design shoes for New Balance. I’ve been working for them for two years. I’m doing performance sneakers that you’d wear with jeans. You’ll be at the Tents for Project Runway today. How many more decades do you think the show has left? I’ve always said to Michael [Kors] that they’re going to have to wheel us out in wheelchairs and with breathing tanks when we’re 95. We’re always laughing about that. As long as there’s fashion, we need Project Runway!
Christian Siriano is a definite breakthrough star. Any designers you’ve been surprised to see disappear? I’m surprised with [the outcome for] every person that wins, but I know how tough this industry is for big-name designers. There are so many designers out there right now. In order to stand out, you really have to have the money to advertise and show at Fashion Week. You need backers to pay for this stuff. Our designers are super talented, but it’s difficult without anybody to pay for things. Or you have to be a great networker, going to events, schmoozing, and getting people to believe in you and invest in your company. That’s why Christian is where he is. He’s been out there hustling and sending clothes to people. He works hard at his shows and moves his booty around. Any other Project Runway alums who’re hustling well? It’s the same with Mondo Guerra. He didn’t win, but he’s doing really well. He has a line of socks and glasses, plus clothes. He’s a hustler, too. Sometimes when people win the show, they think the phone is going to start ringing every five minutes. We Googled you today! A picture of you at Whole Foods popped up. Do you know when a paparazzo’s on you? Are you kidding? Am I aware? When you have 15 people shooting through the glass into the store, you’re aware! You’re aware of it when you get out of the car and people start shooting. Or when you’re in the vegetable section and people come ask if you know your picture is being taken. How do you deal? It’s odd and strange for me. It’s not so strange that they are there, but the people around me get very confused by it. I can block them out, but people start acting weird and they treat me weird. Do other customers come to your rescue? I’ve had that happen before. People have spread their arms out in front of them to block the shot and yell at them. These are people I don’t know at all! Do you ever read Star and Us to see the photos? Not those two, but I read People sometimes. I don’t read them necessarily because of me. There are certain magazines that tell the truth, and others that love to come up with stories. Your quotes about sex in Marie Claire got quite a bit of attention. Any regrets? I have no regrets. I never spoke about me personally. Unfortunately, people haven’t read the whole interview. If they actually read the magazine they’d know I wasn’t talking about my sex life. They were general questions, and I gave general answers. Maybe you can clear that up for me now! We won’t ask you about your sex life, then. Unless you want to talk about it... No! I don’t. I didn’t then either.
Matters! Do you prefer cash or plastic? Both. I pay with credit cards, but I like to have cash on me just in case. How much do you usually keep on you? A few hundred dollars. I like flea markets. Are you frugal or spendy? The only time when I have to have things is when I see beautiful jewelry. If I’m in a country that I won’t get to go anytime soon again, I have to have that. Otherwise, I’m not a huge spender. Did you have an allowance as a kid? I had my monthly money that my parents would give me. I’d work for my dad on the weekends. He worked for a perfume company. The testers would have to be put in cardboard holders; I’d do that. He’d give me 50 marks. That sounds very full circle with you having your own perfume line. I grew up in the beauty industry! That’s where I interned.
“I’ve always said to Michael [Kors] that they’re going to have to wheel us out with wheelchairs and breathing tanks when we’re 95. We’re always laughing about that. As long as there’s fashion, we need Project Runway!”
b fa n yc . c o m ; g e tty imag e s ( 2)
She’s covered every A-list glossy on the planet, fronted all the top brands, and logged more runway miles than a 747. Now Naomi Campbell is ready to give back to fashion as a mentor on The Face. Watch and learn, ladies! BY EDDIE ROCHE
Loved the show. What made you want to be on TV? It was always something I was quite fearful of and shied away from. The attractive part was that I’d get to share what I’ve learned over the 26 years of my career. I drew a few boundary lines for what I would and wouldn’t do: I didn’t want to judge the girls in any way, and they said that was fine. They let someone else do that. They gave me my own team, and we went from there. This can’t be the first time you were approached. Which other reality shows did you pass on? I can’t even remember, but people have been offering me reality shows for the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
past 12 years! Not just in the United States, but all over the world. I said no because it wasn’t right for me and I didn’t feel comfortable. You’re also the executive producer of The Face, correct? Yes, and it’s a lot of hard work, because when the cameras stop rolling, it doesn’t mean I stop working. Before we even started shooting, I wanted the show to be a certain caliber, which meant getting on the phone and dealing with a lot of people’s schedules. I pulled in a lot of favors, and went back to people in the industry whom I’ve known since I was 16-years old. I asked them for their time and effort to support me in the show. Everyone said yes. We wanted it to be authentic and pass on what I learned to help these young girls who want to be aspiring models. Can you name some of the people we’re going to see? I’m someone who doesn’t like to spoil a surprise. Let’s just say, it’s a high-level quality of people whom I’ve worked with in my career, if that gives you any sense. Are you a sore loser? Losing? I can’t bear it! But the show isn’t about me losing. I don’t want my girls
to lose. I don’t want Team Naomi to lose. I’ve got to prove to my girls they’ve got what it takes to get out there in the real world. But I’m not the kind of coach that sugarcoats things. I tell them and try to teach them what it’s really like out there. I want one of my girls to win, and they deserve to win. They are great girls. Have you watched yourself on the show yet? I haven’t. I don’t know if I can, actually. I probably can’t. When I shoot pictures as a model I never look at the monitor. I like surprises. Are you afraid of how you might come off? If I do watch, I’m going to watch it more for the look. Not how I look, but the overall look. My name is on it and I want whatever I put my name on to look good. We’ve had all these special guests who’ve given their time. I want everyone to be happy. Do you lose your temper in any of the episodes? Of course I do! You wouldn’t like it if I didn’t. True. By the way, we’re following you on Twitter. It’s fun! I’m just sharing things that I like to read and say. Do you come up with the #Omiquotes yourself? Most of them. What’s an #Omiquote? Basically, it’s just a positive affirmation, like, “One day you will be just a memory for some people, but do your best to be a good one.” Things like that. Do you read a lot of self-help books? I do! What I like is that you can pick them up at any
point. You don’t have to start from page one. You can have that book for 10 years and pick it up and say, “Oh! I never saw this part.” It’s like a constant companion. Any authors you’d recommend? I like Marianne Williamson. I used to go to this seminar a few years back in Phoenix. And I love Eckhart Tolle’s The Power of Now and every other book he does. Tony Robbins too. Is this a new thing for you? No! I’ve been going to these seminars in Phoenix for a few years. Marianne Williamson actually spoke at one. You can go, too. Your life changes and you find you’re not running around like a chicken with your head cut off. It’s basically just making time for yourself. You just sit there and let it all sink in. That’s what it is. Would you ever write a memoir? I don’t think so. It’s a hard question for me to answer because I’m a very private person. And with all of the wonderful people in my life that have been there from the beginning until now, I have to respect their privacy. I wouldn’t want to be disloyal. I don’t have anything bad to say, but I should probably just keep my memories to myself. Where do you live these days? I’m a gypsy, as always. Are you going to be at the Tents? I’ll be there. I don’t know if I’ll be walking, but I’ll be there. See you then! All right, love! g e tty i m a g e s ( 1 ) ; c o u r t e s y o x y g e n
“[Naomi] doesn’t go out there to be scary. She’s actually very personable and warm in a way that takes you off guard. Even though she was the producer, I never really thought of her as my boss.” —Nigel Barker
Nigel Barker What’s your role on the show? I’m the host and the go-between for the audience and contestants. So much happens in the fashion business that it can almost feel like a foreign language. I’m the referee and the only guy. All that estrogen gets a bit much. Interesting that none of the principals on the show are from the United States. The business is made up of people from around the world. That’s one of the reasons why I love it. It’s where all the misfits are. Should we expect a lot of drama? Of course! It’s fashion, honey. More drama than America’s Next Top Model? It’s completely different. Obviously there is drama in all reality shows on some level. But it’s not just about people screaming at each other. You were a judge on Top Model and now you’re a host. Did you have to take classes? I didn’t. A lot of it comes with confidence. I never claimed to anyone that I knew exactly what I was doing at any one moment. I told the producers that if I miss anything or if they want me to be more dramatic, I can work that out for them. I have always tried to be the Nigel Barker you see on TV, on and off the screen. Could you tell who the winner was going to be from the get-go? You can’t help but make judgments, but I realized a long time ago that I had to reserve them, because the most important thing you want to see is somebody’s potential to change. Be honest: Was anybody scared of Naomi? She doesn’t go out there to be scary. She’s actually very personable and warm in a way that takes you off guard. Even though she was the producer, I never really thought of her as my boss. She never said to me that I needed to do this or that. It was always a group discussion. You knew Karolina and Coco before, right? I did. Coco and I worked together many times. When Karolina was starting her career, I was beginning my photography career. She was always one of those girls you wanted to photograph. Will we be seeing you around this week? On buses, billboards, in the subway, and in the front row! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Karolina Kurkova What’s your role on the show? I’m a coach. I do whatever I need to make sure the girls that I’m working with perform well and are happy. I hold their hand, and they cry on my shoulder. Who was your mentor? I didn’t really have one. At the beginning when I was starting out, I had to figure out a lot of things for myself and learn the hard way. But I’ve learned a lot from my colleagues by watching them and the decisions they’ve made. When you’re starting out you have to think about which direction you want to go. I always say that you are your own brand. I am a person, but I am also a brand. How would you describe Naomi’s brand? Is she a good coach? I haven’t really seen her coach. When we’re coaching, we’re not together. I don’t see her approach, because I’m always with my own girls. I haven’t even seen the show yet! A British newspaper said there was tension on the set. True? It was all very professional. We worked hard. Everyone took it very seriously, because it was important for the girls on the show. A lot of them left their homes and put their lives on hold to do it. But whatever happened on the show, happened on the show. When we went home, we continued on with our lives. Naomi yells at you in the promos. What was that like? I was just kind of surprised. It came out of nowhere. I didn’t know if it was real and why it was happening. We’re all very passionate about our girls and none of us wanted to lose. But if the show was flat, it would be boring, so things happen. But when we were off the set, we were cool. Sometimes we get passionate and excited. Would you have done a reality show 10 years ago? Probably not. I was very shy and insecure. What’s your favorite thing to eat on set? Green juices. I have to drink one every day. No Tate’s cookies for you then? Sometimes I’ll have a bagel if I’m really hungry. But the more crap I put into my body, the more tired I feel.
Coco Rocha When did you meet Naomi? My first show was Anna Sui, and I passed her on the runway. Afterward, she told me backstage that I had a great walk. I didn’t really know who she was at the time, though. She’s been very nice to me ever since and was a big part in picking me for the show. Is she a fun boss? Karolina and I were late for our first meeting, and Naomi and the entire team were sitting there waiting for us. That didn’t happen again. TV people don’t really know what the fashion world is about or anything about editorial, and she knows that stuff better than most. Was she intimidating? No, but when she walks into a room, she demands presence. The first few times we were filming, I didn’t know what to say to her. Did you miss out on any jobs during filming? I had one that came up in the middle of it all, but I was able to do it in the end. We shot during Fashion Week, so I walked in Zac Posen—but I wasn’t able to do any others. But I’ve been doing this for 14 seasons so it was time to take some time off. Are you doing the circuit this month? I hope! I won’t be doing everything, but I’d like to do my favorites. I’d like to go to Paris and hang out with some designers there, too. Models are supposed to have 10-year plans or something. What’s yours? I couldn’t even tell you what I’m going to do after this interview! Do you want to be a mom? I’d love to be a mom. My own mom is always asking me when I’m gonna get pregnant. How’s living in the burbs? We love it out there. You go to work in Manhattan, but then escape back to Normalville. You’re leading a double life. I am. I wonder if my next-door neighbors even know anything about me. How do you kill time on your commute? I love everything, from R&B to show tunes. I can go from Liza Minnelli to Kanye West in a single shuffle. What’s your favorite Liza song? Have you ever heard her sing “Hello, Dolly” with her mom? c o u r t e sy o x y g e n
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1) Jason wu
HINT: They met at a New Year’s Eve party in 2005. Six months later, friendship turned to love and they’ve been attached in every way ever since.
A) Wen Zhou
HINT: In the early days, Panichgul would give his wingwoman the only chair in his tiny studio while he sat on a garbage can.
Match the designer
B) christopher suarez
TO theIR MONEY MAVEN e math stuff. Can e factories, and do all th E REDDINGER th d fin , ric fab e th y bu They PAIG ion of Pierre Bergés? BY you ID the next generat
3) Phillip Lim
HINT: Nine years ago, Lim launched his collection with cash from this friend, who he met in Paris. She’s now his CEO.
4) Victoria Bartlett
C) Gustavo Rangel
HINT: Bartlett was consulting for Theory when she hooked up with this retail strat master.
D) Uri Minkoff
? HINT: This biz whiz made money in tech and was so confident in Becky’s talent he invested his hard-earned savings.
In 2005, he stumbled on Kirkwood’s booth at the Parisian accessories tradeshow Premiere Classe.
Answers FA HH IO NN W EE EE KK DD AA IL Y.Y. com FASS IO W IL COM
E) Kikka Hanazawa
1C, 2F, 3A, 4E, 5D, 6B
5) Rebecca Minkoff
6) Nicholas Kirkwood
F) Maria Tomei Borromeo b f a n y c . c o m ( 5 ) ; P A T R I C K MCM U L L AN . COM ( 2 ) ; s h utt e r s t o c k
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The OC Annual
Editor-in-Chief: Rory Satran Vibe: Dazed & Confused meets Vice meets a Klonopin prescription Sample Contents: The debut issue has a sports theme. (Adam Kimmel gets cut at Clay! Masha Orlov hits the Reebok Sports Club!) Price: $25 Pages: 287 Estimated Weight: 3 pounds Ad Count: Zero Boldface Bylines: Bruce Weber, Terence Koh, Jessica CraigMartin, Vice vets Jesse Pearson and Tim Barber, Theo Wenner, Roe Ethridge Credits: Adidas has a whopping 75; American Apparel has 21
Jeff Koons Mikhail Baryshnikov
A branded-content primer
Hilary Rhoda Grace Coddington
ASOS Magazine Editor-in-Chief: Melissa Dick Digital or Print? Les deux! Vibe: Nylon meets…Nylon Ad Count: L’Oreal, Colgate Sample Contents: Azealia Banks and Aubrey Plaza have both done covers, and Mad Men star Vincent Kartheiser made yet another appearance in the January issue. Plus! Homeland star Morgan “Dana Brody” Saylor reveals her celeb crush (Chace Crawford). Boldface Bylines: Ummm… Product Pages: 20 Bloggers Featured: 3 Advertorials: 2
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
Editor-in-Chief: Thomas Persson Vibe: Fantastic Man meets The New York Review of Books 4 Kidz Sample Contents: “Walking With Fran Lebowitz, Guardian of the City of New York” Price: $17.99 Pages: 265 Estimated Weight: 2.5 pounds Ad Count: One (Givenchy) Boldface Bylines: Brigitte Lacombe, Vogue regular Eric Boman, Roe Ethridge, Mattias Karlsson, and stylist Marie Chaix Room to Breathe: Karlsson’s fashion spread runs 18 pages, and Chaix’s shoot with Karlie Kloss takes up 11! Acne Credits: 20
Mag-vertorial Mayhem! By paige reddinger
Editor-in-Chief: Ex–Harper’s Bazaar UK EIC Lucy Yeomans Vibe: Bazaar, but even more shoppable! A print version launches this fall. Sample Contents: Hilary Rhoda, Liya Kebede, Karlie Kloss, and Natalia Vodianova “dish” about stuff. Ahem. Ad Count: The gang’s all here! Jason Wu, W Hotels, Rolex, Jo Malone, Tiffany & Co. Watch your back, Carol Smith! Audience: 3.6 million Best Quote: “I’m lucky at US Vogue as I’m given a bit more leeway and time, because I’m old, I think.” —Grace Coddington
TheAesthete.com Editor-in-Chief: Adrian Mainella, host of Canada’s Fashion File TV show Vibe: Insider-y but accessible Sample Contents: “Bret Easton Ellis Tells Us Why Porn Works” Ad Count: Zero Who’s Paying for It: Joe Mimran, Club Monaco founder and current owner of Canadian retail giant Joe Fresh Boldface Bylines: Annabel Tollman, Frank de Jesus, Cintra Wilson, Julie Gilhart, Doug Friedman, and just about every other sought after styliste-about-town What’s for Sale? Nada Best Quote: “The last book I read was Catcher in the Rye, and I wish I had caught her. Just kidding, and this will be the last question you ask me.” —Stanley Tucci What Else Is in the Mix? Michelle Harper confesses her love of wigs!
Derek Blasbe contributes torg3 out of 5!
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Find me at aquatalia.com
Stayed In the Picture Full Picture founder Desiree Gruber turned Heidi Klum into a global brand and Project Runway into a ratings juggernaut. She is a one-woman marketing machine, a true entrepreneur, and one of the nicest gals in the game. Hear her gentle roar! BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
The next day I went to the launch party for Talk magazine— I walked in and the first person I saw was Kyle.
Let’s go back to the beginning: young. I absolutely utilize them week we have a meeting called the “power grid.” How did Full Picture start? in running my company. Which means…? After I’d been at Rogers & Cowan How has the industry evolved We call it that because when electricity goes for eight years, my dad and my since you came on the scene? out, you can’t operate. If the power plant has a brother encouraged me to go When I started in PR, you’d failure, it doesn’t work. The power grid keeps us do my own thing. I named the mail press releases out. Next, connected to each other, so we all know what’s company Full Picture because we were faxing. We had five happening, who’s doing what in what industry, I thought it’d be great to help computers in the office, and you and what could be transformative. clients develop other projects had to share with someone else! Are you easy to work for? beyond just doing their PR. We Then all of a sudden everyone I think so! I want everybody here to have a stake started with PR, production, had a computer on their desk. in the business, and to go home having learned and management, and then Now we have huge computers something—and be better for it. I don’t want obviously digital happened so in our purses every day. We still people to be here and feel that was a crap day we had to catch the digital wave. have a lot of ground to cover, and didn’t mean anything. I take the time to I was brought up to think there but what an exciting time to be explain things. If somebody does something are no limits—whatever you’re in business! wrong I say, “That’s not right. This is why…” I’ve interested in, give it a try. You certainly have your hands worked with my team for a number of years now; Who were your first clients? in a lot of different pies! you survive things together. Any mega-event Victoria’s Secret was super I wake up generous; we also had Heidi every day Klum, Roberto Cavalli, and a few and come other brands. We were profitable to work from day one, though. It wasn’t excited like I had to bring all my savings and in here and sweat it out those energized. first few months. Then we started It’s not incubating ideas for TV shows. At the time, [Full a job, it’s a lifestyle. Who Picture exec] Jane Cha Cutler was spending doesn’t love seeing what time in L.A. meeting writers. In Hollywood, the people are buying and whole production thing is so complicated! But I road-testing things? [At think the fashion story hadn’t been fully told on Full Picture] we live at the television. crossroads of fashion, Which leads us to Project Runway. You’re hospitality, entertainment, a creator and an executive producer of the technology. show. It’s worked out pretty well, huh? What’s the deal with Project Runway is a love letter to the fashion your Theodora & Callum industry! There are very few jobs in New York line? that give you access to stand next to Michael As we helped other people Kors and see what he thinks about your work. tell their story, more ideas How many internships does he have available? started to percolate. It An internship for Michael Kors went at an auction seemed fun to create a for $25,000. Some people watch the show and line inspired by moms and might not have the skill set, but ask themselves their experiences. [My The Full Picture team what else they can do. There are different ways business partner] Stefani to get into fashion; the industry has a lot of room Greenfield and I talked for creative people. about being on vacation What’s Full Picture up to these days? and having that moment or any major launch is going to have good days We’re about putting a brand at the crossroads when it’s everything you want it to be. When I and bad days! I don’t want anybody here who’s where other cool things are going on. We help shop on vacation, I find some of my best pieces just making a salary; go work somewhere else. people tell stories in every way possible, from ever! I can never get rid of them—they’re from We’re here to learn, to grow, to actually impact actually getting articles in magazines to bringing a moment in time. It’s a memory in your closet! products to life. If Heidi Klum has an idea for a That’s what we’re trying to create with Theodora the community. We’re bonded together in a way that’s like a family but it’s work. fragrance, we help her bring it to market. Her & Callum. fragrance, Shine, won a FiFi award last year and Wearable wanderlust! J’adore. How important On the topic of family, where’d you and hubbie Kyle MacLachlan meet? was one of the top five fragrances of the year. is your Full Pic team? We met in the chiropractor’s office in L.A. over Every element of my company had a It’s truly all about teamwork. No project 13 years ago. We’ve been married for 10 years. hand in doing that. can succeed in isolation—we maintain We had an awkward conversation because he Where does your ambition come that team mentality around here. Our came up to say hello. I was like, “Why is this from? best ideas are vetted, improved, person saying hello?” I knew who he was; we had I’m super entrepreneurial at heart. My and eventually executed through a minute-long chat. The next day I went to the father was an entrepreneur, and team effort. We do group launch party for Talk magazine—I walked in and he really taught my brother brainstorming, and I build the first person I saw was Kyle. He asked me out and me. He was a Green teams with different but that night, and that was it. Beret, went on to be a state complementary skill sets. We So Tina Brown is responsible for your senator, and is currently an also learn from our setbacks marriage? entrepreneur. He insisted and share in our successes. And my chiropractor. We invited him to the wedding. that as part of my education So who’s on the team? Do you cook for your brood? I join the Army ROTC in Jane Cha Cutler was my first No, I don’t like to cook. It’s not my forte! I can boil college. I hated it at the executive. She runs production eggs. But Kyle’s a chef and he loves it. He plans time—really resented it—but out of the L.A. office. Nicole Kyle and Desiree what we’re going to eat throughout the week. We I rely on those skills now. [Esposito] runs all of PR, Hilla complement each other on that, then obviously Those leadership skills were [Narov] runs management, and we go out to eat a lot. I mean, it’s New York City! instilled in me when I was Liane [Mullin] runs digital. Every pat r ickmcm u lla n . com
L A T O T
E ) r ( e g H a k T Pac You may not know his name, and you probably haven’t read his magazine, but you certainly could learn a thing or two from Businessweek EIC Josh Tyrangiel. He works his tail off every week making hard news fun for the rest of us. Let’s get to know him, shall we? BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
You won an ASME for General Excellence last year. Did it change your life? It hasn’t changed my life, but it did change my night. If we hadn’t won, we probably would’ve looked at each other and said, “Oh, man! The ASMEs suck. Let’s go get a drink.” Instead, we said, “Oh, man! The ASMEs are awesome. Let’s go get a drink.” Similar outcomes with much higher spirits. How about that Editor of the Year award? An individual honor at a magazine is so bizarre. It doesn’t matter how brilliant anyone is, it takes a lot of people to make those ideas translate on a page. Well played. Your magazine is absolutely packed with info. What’s the secret to great packaging? Hire people who love to work. People underestimate the amount of labor that goes into making every page great. You need people who not only deliver for the group but find personal satisfaction in the tiniest details. Hire crazy people, got it. Any other tricks? I’m surprised people haven’t spoken about this more, but secret No. 2 from a management perspective is that you need to mix up your expertise. We have editors and writers sitting next to photo editors, graphic artists, and designers. For decades, journalists got used to sitting in their offices, going to the water cooler or out to smoke, and then back to their offices. Besides being a lousy way to run a magazine, I found it to be no fun at all. It’s insular and self-reinforcing. What are the benefits? It puts every story up for debate. A writer can say, “I want to write this at 4,000 words,” and the designer next to them might say, “I don’t want to read 4,000 words. It would be much better as a graphic.” It’s important to have those conversations before you get to the creation stage. What do you look for in an editor? Besides hiring people who work hard, I try to hire people who are uninsultable. We may take gratification in working on this magazine each week, and on the website, but ultimately this is for our readers. How big is your staff? Around 70 people. It’s pretty small. That includes everything: copy edit, design, photo, graphics, editing, and support. Everybody could always use more help, but I don’t think we ever have situations where people don’t know what they own. I’m not looking to expand. Pretty swanky digs, by the way. The point of this building is to have people run into as many people as possible, and I like that. I enjoy hearing feedback on the magazine. And the food’s great. They’ve got things like salted kale chips. It’s like the world’s best bodega. Your schedule must be pretty intense. It’s the only professional journalism life I’ve ever known. When I got hired at Time, [then managing editor] Walter [Isaacson] said to me, “Congratulations, your Friday nights belong to me.” And they did! I was there every Tuesday until 1 or 2 a.m. Wednesdays I’m here around 7:30 a.m., we sprint and close 40-50-something pages by 7:30 or 8 p.m. We have great gigs, and to keep those gigs you have to defend them; that involves doing a lot of work. Is the Businessweek grind more grueling than Time? Oh, this is a much harder place to work. Why? More pages! When I left Time, it had 32 pages of edit. [At Businessweek] we put out 64 to 66 pages. It’s a lot of pages, but the whole reason for the magazine to
exist, and its future, lies in communicating to readers that they’re getting their money’s worth. In fact, they might even be ripping us off! How are you feeling about print in general? The last decade in magazines and newspapers has troubled me because no one was fighting for their reason to exist. They were taking for granted that people would read out of obligation. They didn’t, and they won’t. You have to fight! Your covers have been getting a bit of attention. What’s your favorite so far? The “Let’s Get It On” cover about the merger between United and Continental just made me laugh. With the “It’s Global Warming, Stupid” cover, I was sort of surprised by the reaction. There were a dozen of us working through the hurricane, and that’s what all of us were discussing. The best covers capture what people are talking about. How did you hook up with your creative director, Richard Turley? When I came on, it was obvious they needed a redesign. In a very short timeframe, we needed someone with a vision. I wrote a 5,000-word manifesto of what the magazine ought to be and I sent it to two people. Richard read it, got it, and within a week we were working together over the phone. I was a great admirer of The Guardian’s “G2” section, which he did. We sit across from each other, and we’ve gotten so good at communicating through grunts, nods, and kicks under the table. Both of us are uninsultable. I’ll tell him, “That’s a shitty idea,” or he’ll tell me, “That story’s a disaster.” Making a magazine is 1,000 decisions in a week, easy, and you will definitely come up with an idea that’s terrible. You have to! It’s about acknowledging good work without lingering over it. And it’s a joy to have someone who works as hard as you and takes hard stands that you don’t always agree with. What’s the most “Josh” thing about the magazine? I want it to be fun. One of the best ways to share a culture is by joking about that culture. I like the magazine to have some velocity and in-jokes, and to not be afraid to make references some readers might not get. I couldn’t imagine doing something that’s endlessly serious. Has your competition shifted since you arrived? For years and years, it was the business set: Fortune, Forbes, and maybe Money and Smart Money. But it’s very difficult to compete against titles that don’t come out with the same frequency. The Economist is really our main competition. Do you notice other titles cribbing your designs? Elements have been ripped off, to put it bluntly, but it’s a copycat league. I expect that. We’ve been inspired by other people, too, so it doesn’t bother me. You’re quite the young duo! Can’t believe you’re only 40. We’re only young in the context of this business. I have friends my age who are retired who went to Silicon Valley. This business was reluctant to take risks for a while, and understandably so. Were you a risk? Oh, absolutely. I’d never actually been in charge of a magazine before—I’d only been No. 2, and I didn’t have a business background. I’m a great beneficiary of the chaos in our industry. If things were going great, it would have been, “Wait until you’re 50, and then you get to run your own magazine.” Which editor would you like to trade lives with for a month? Anna Wintour has created an amazing business, and I’d love to get my hands on the wheel of that really stylish battleship for a little while. Man, who wouldn’t want to be Anna Wintour for a month?
“I’m a great beneficiary of the chaos in our industry. If things were going great, it would have been, ‘Wait until you’re 50, and then you get to run your own magazine.’”
From Rock to Pop
Fresh from the reality-TV trenches, menswear maestro John Varvatos is still getting used to people asking for his autograph. The Daily stopped by his boutique on the Bowery to find out how he’s keeping his cool. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY Giorgio Niro
our brand has always been about rock ’n’ roll. Were you ever in a band? When I was in high school, but I was never any good. I’m lucky that I get asked to play with people on stage from time to time, but there’s always that moment when I realize it’s either in your bones or it isn’t! What bands have you played with? Cheap Trick, Alice Cooper, the guys from ZZ Top. Were you obsessed with music as a kid? I grew up in Detroit, which is a very music-driven town. There’s not a whole lot else going on. I lived in a really little house with seven other people and one little bathroom, and my way of getting away from it all was going down to the basement and putting on my headphones. We’re in the old CBGB space. Did you ever see any shows here? I saw the Ramones in ’79, Television, Patti Smith. I never thought about whether I’d want to put a store here, but it was empty for a couple of years, and I was in the area looking at something else and curious about what it looked like inside. Then I heard about the other possible tenants—drugstores, banks, that sort of thing—and thought, This can’t happen. The Bowery’s changed a bit since then. It’s not the derelict Bowery that was here before, definitely, but I don’t know what was so great about that. It was scary over here. There’s still a funkiness I like. It’s still grungy. It’ll never be what it was, but the world changes. A big part of the universe hates change, but I’m one of the people who love change. I embrace it. Life would be boring if it didn’t change. Has being on Fashion Star been good for business? It’s heightened mainstream awareness of the brand and me personally, there’s no doubt about that. Strangers are talking to me now. From a personal standpoint, I never wanted to be the face of the brand, but when you’re on network TV and there are 6 or 10 million people watching and your face is on buses, you’re going to have more awareness. I went in with a few trepidations but have gotten no negative vibes. I wasn’t a judge, I was a mentor, and that’s what I do every day. Are you signing a lot of autographs? There’s always people who want you to sign the inside of a coat or something like that, but more people just want to take pictures and put them on their blog or whatever. At first it’s embarrassing, but for the moment I’m very flattered by it. Your new campaign features Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page and the blues prodigy Gary Clark Jr. Why those two? They have a lot in common. Their music comes from the same roots. Jimmy is arguably the best guitar player in the history of rock. He’s up there with the greats. And Gary’s the young gun, but he’s not the young gun that’s going away anytime soon. He’s going to be around a long time. He’s the hottest commodity in rock at the moment, and we’ve believed in him from the onset. He’s magical. He’s the future. You seem pretty laid-back. Are you? I have my moments of intensity. Up until five years ago or so I was very shy, but I’m not so shy anymore. I couldn’t do television if I was! My wife, Joyce, is very outgoing and aggressive, but that’s just not my personality. It’s a very humbling thing when people want a picture with you. You just showed in Milan a few weeks ago. How’d it go? I don’t usually say this, but I think it was our best Fall yet. The funny thing about doing shows is that you do your show in Milan and the next day you’re in London starting work on your next collection. It’s not like a Broadway opening where you open up and there’s a big party. It’s almost a bit of a letdown. The real exciting part is when the clothes come into the stores and you see the sales doing well and the customers all excited. I’m most excited when I’m going through the airport at security and the guy in front of me is taking off a pair of our boots, or the guy sitting across from me on the plane has a John Varvatos garment bag. I’m too shy to introduce myself, but I think, Wow, that’s pretty freaking cool.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M I N S E T S c o u r tesy
salt ’n’ pepper
The Dow may be down, but fashion’s S’n’P index is way up! No longer relegated to pushing aftershave and playing the goofy dad in the Kohl’s catalog, guys with a little gray on top are landing major campaigns and raking in the big bucks. We went hunting for the biggest foxes and bagged these three. BY JENNA SAUERS Bernard Fouquet, 61 Fouquet has been modeling since 1976—not counting a 10-year break to raise a family and become a helicopter pilot. Based in Paris, he’s worked as an S’n’P since 1990. CLIENTS: Tommy Hilfiger, Brooks Brothers, J.M. Weston, Azzaro Chrome, Clarins FOX APPEAL: “I think the baby-boomer demographic is something everyone wants to target right now. I’m not an anthropologist, but I think that’s what’s going on.” FACING FOX: “It’s just like every job in the world: after a while, people don’t want you—I think it can be tough on your ego. But I’m pretty lucky, and I had a great year last year. But you never know if the job you just did will be your last one.”
Conspiracy Theory to Discuss!
Stefano Tonchi Editor in Chief, W
Brad Fisher, 51 A successful painter, Fisher recently had work featured in the windows of Hugo Boss in the Meatpacking District. “For some reason,” he says, “the crazy-artist gray-hair-bearded thing works well in Europe.” He’s been an S’n’P for 11 years. CLIENTS: Selima Optique, RRL, J.Crew, Bloomingdale’s, Esquire, Fantastic Man COLD HARD FOX: “You age out of this business. Women do too, even faster. That’s the trade-off: the girls make way more than we do, but we can work much longer. You go through this period where you’re not in your 20s anymore. You don’t have the boyish good looks. But then, at the other side, if you look like you’ve aged naturally, you can have a whole second career.” FOX POPULI: “During harder times, people want to see a man in a suit. They don’t want to see a boy. They want to see someone who looks like they could go out and kill a beast for dinner.”
Frank Muytjens Menswear Designer, J.Crew
T.R. Pescod, 47 Pescod modeled in his 20s in Europe and in Japan, but gave it up to pursue acting. In his 30s, the business beckoned, and he’s been working steadily ever since. CLIENTS: Paul Stewart, Barneys, L’Oréal. He’s close friends with Ina Garten, so you may have seen him on her show, too. FOX AND FIGURES: “I was cast in a Banana Republic commercial… Peggy Sirota, the big fashion photographer, was directing the commercial. And she said, ‘Why don’t you have a modeling agent? Gray hair is money, honey!’” FOX ENVY: “There’s a small handful of us salt-and-pepper guys in the biz. And it’s funny because there are younger guys I know who are in their 30s who say things like, ‘Dude, I just wish I had gray hair!’”
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Jim Moore Creative Director, GQ b fanyc . co m ( 3 ) ; patric k m c m ullan . co m ; all m odels courtesy
Ready, Willing, and
Knowledgeable What makes Berkeley College faculty members so valuable? • Success in the fashion world and readiness to share their real-world experiences with students • Engagement in academic research and professional organizations • Accessibility and commitment to student success
Robert Woods - Former designer for Paolo Gucci in Florence, Italy Faculty, Fashion Marketing and Management “As a faculty member at Berkeley College, I enjoy sharing my relevant professional experience in the business of fashion with my students. I strive to keep the material current to better prepare them for successful careers.”
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Published on Feb 8, 2013