C A L G A R Y / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S : : V O L U M E 4 N O . 3 : : J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5
RY A G L A C FOR AM ICE CRE
DISH UP THE FISH!
T A E H E H BEAT T TH ICE WI ERS E B D L O C
Spicing Up Sundaes | Refreshing Cocktails | The Low Down on Sodas
Our winery Bistro is now OPEN! Take in the stunning views and enjoy fabulously crafted seasonal & local food paired with our award-winning wines. Call for hours of operation.
BENCH 1775 WINERY: 1775 Naramata Rd, Penticton, B.C. V2A 8T8 firstname.lastname@example.org|www.bench1775.com|Open Daily 11am-6pm
28 VOLUME 4 / ISSUE #3 JULY/AUGUST 2015
Decades of Success For almost forty years, staying on top the educational aspect of seafood has kept Boyd’s successful by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
The Rise of Artisan Ice Cream in Calgary There’s been a resurgence of locally made edibles in our city, and ice cream is no exception by Dan Clapson
28 Soda… Pops! Soft drinks are big business in Canada, but pop is finally going the craft route with more natural flavours by Tom Firth
Dining Etiquette - Japanese Style 10 Things You Should Know by Maria Doll
Find Your Best: Sushi What type of sushi spot suits you best? by Dan Clapson, Linda Garson and Diana Ng
34 Making the Case For Wine Wines for summer sipping by Tom Firth
36 Refreshing Cocktails… …to punch up your summer by Rebecca Davis
38 Pass Me a Cold One! The joys of a frosty beer by Kirk Bodnar
42 Open That Bottle Kevin Kent of Knifewear and Kent of Inglewood by Linda Garson
Salutes and Shout Outs
Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!
20 6 Ways to Spice Up Sundaes 26 Step-By-Step: Corn Dogs
On the Cover: Many thanks to photographer Ingrid Kuenzel, and Dan Clapson for art directing our very striking summer front cover
Letter From The Editor Stampede, followed by festivals such as ReggaeFest, Expo Latino, Afrikadey, Carifest, Fiestaval, Taste of Calgary, and GlobalFest – we can travel the world without ever leaving home!
I love summer in Calgary. Our city really sparkles in the sun, and there’s always something going on, with a different festival seemingly every weekend. I love that we celebrate the diverse cultures of our city in July and August, starting with a multitude of Canada Day events, then of course
They say that travel broadens the mind (and that’s the only part of my body that I allow to be broad!), and at these festivals there are always such interesting and tempting ‘fest-food’ options to be found. Plus there are decks and patios, and food trucks all around town - no end of choices for chomping in the sun! Summer for us at Culinaire means the Alberta Beverage Awards, and our judges will be busy sipping and spitting their way through hundreds of wines, beers and spirits, to bring you their recommendations and picks for the best Alberta has to offer. Our third year has been a huge success, even in a difficult
economic climate, and we’ll be revealing the results in our autumn issues. Summer also means fresher, lighter food, and for me in particular, lots of seafood. We have ideas for how to cook it and where to eat it in this issue, as well as everyone’s favourite summertime treat – ice cream! I’ve been working even harder than usual on your behalf the last few months as we’ve had so many new restaurant openings, and it’s my job to eat in them all and let you know what’s on offer. It’s a challenge, but my goodness, has it been a tasty one – the quality of our new restaurants is amazing! I hope your summers are as good as I intend mine to be, Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson email@example.com Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 firstname.lastname@example.org Sales Executive: Joe Steinberg 403-819-3775 email@example.com Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson firstname.lastname@example.org Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth email@example.com Digital Media: Mallory Frayn firstname.lastname@example.org Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Kirk Bodnar Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Rebecca Davis Maria Doll Mallory Frayn Renee Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel Karen Miller Diana Ng
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 email@example.com www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our Contributors < KIRK BODNAR
Kirk Bodnar is the Education Director for CAMRA Alberta, as well as a beer consultant, who has worked with some of Calgary’s better beer destinations. He is also a Certified CICERONE®, BJCP beer judge, history teacher, avid home brewer, and most importantly a father of two future beer geeks (hopefully). Follow him on Twitter @beersnsuch and on Facebook at facebook.com/beersnsuch.
< DIANA NG
Diana is a co-founder of EatNorth.ca, freelance food writer and digital media buff who is passionate about Canadian food. She’s written for FoodNetwork.ca and CanadianLiving. com, among other websites and publications. The only foods she doesn’t like are those prepared badly. Currently craving seafood, from West Coast to East Coast, and searching for gooseneck barnacles. Follow @FoodSalon and @EatNorthCa on Twitter.
Originally from Ireland, Maria is an etiquette coach whose main mission is to make acquiring good manners accessible to everyone. Her background includes retail marketing plus teaching fitness and dance classes. Maria’s most rewarding career was raising her three children. She has a love of sharing knowledge with others, live jazz music, and a keen eye for anything hyper-local.
Salutes... A winning team Hearty congratulations to Market Restaurant on two fronts – to owner Vanessa Salopek, whose ‘Market Fresh’ project was chosen to represent Alberta in the finals for the 2015 Business Development Bank of Canada Young Entrepreneur Award, and to Executive
Chef Sean MacDonald, who took first place in the Calgary heat of the Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship! Chef MacDonald, along with finalist Chef Ian MacDougall, of Model Milk, will now compete in the final national round, in Vancouver on September 12. Go Market go!
More winning wine list awards They’ve done it again! Congrats to Brad Royale and Divino Wine & Cheese Bistro, on being awarded Three Stars, the highest ranking from the World of Fine Wine 2015 Best Wine Lists. Divino is one of only five restaurants in Canada to achieve this rating, and 300 worldwide!
and Shout Outs... Dining in style Canadian Pacific donated a rare 1929 River Forth rail car to Heritage Park, where it has been extensively restored, and now it’s returning to the rails as an elegant 1920s dining car. With a historically inspired menu from Executive Chef Jan Hansen, you can treat yourself to lunch or a private booking for that special occasion.
Hidden treats Calgary’s latest cocktail bar is waiting for you to discover it behind a barber’s shop in Bridgeland. Like next-door sister eatery, Blue Star Diner, Cannibale is casual and friendly – a community gathering place, serving classic artisan cocktails. The food menu changes regularly; choose high-end bar snacks such as Duck Reuben or foie gras parfait – there’s no deep fryer in this little kitchen! The lean and mean cocktail menu changes often too, listed as Pre Prohibition, Post Prohibition & Tiki, Revivals and Originals, with credits to the creators, and a separate list for
lunchtime. Mocktails aren’t listed, but just ask and they're yours to enjoy. Sip them inside or by the fireplace on the 30-seat, ivy-planted garden patio.
And finally… Next Door Wine & Appetizers
Next door neighbours Bucking the trend of premium restaurants opening more casual siblings, Next Door Wine & Appetizers is a new airy, spacious and stylish wine bar, from the owners of Toscana Grill at Heritage Drive, a faster and more family Italian eatery. There are 100+ wines to choose from, with 21 offered by the 2oz taste or 6oz glass. The generous sharing appetizers are by award-winning Turin chef, Luigi Ornaghi, with dishes such as moist and spicy beef and veal meatballs, risotto balls stuffed with fior de latte, and crab cakes with spicy homemade aioli. There’s no pizza here, but you can have it at Toscana – next door!
bar. Here they use chicken broth, as it matches better with other food such as seafood, and it's food for your soul! Add marinated sous-vide chicken or pork, or both, there are six hot ramens and one cold to choose from. Or broaden your horizons and try Unagi Poutine, truffled tempura mushrooms, octopus carpaccio, and deep fried Brussels sprouts, with Yuzu Panna Cotta to finish!
An ikemen is a good-looking man and a cool guy, but ike is also broth and men means noodle, coming together in Ikemen, a new Kensington ramen
The long-awaited Simmons Building is open! And it’s a beautiful space housing three of Calgary’s favourites. Sidewalk Citizen’s bakery/deli serves up fresh and healthy salads, sourdough or warm stuffed pita bread sandwiches, pizza and desserts, from breakfast till early evening, as well as baked goods to take home. It’s also home to Phil & Sebastian, offering a variety of bythe-cup brewing methods, and tasting flights of brewed coffee and espresso - and Charbar, the new restaurant from Charcut Roast House. Expect the unexpected, as here you’ll find not only ultra dry-aged Alberta beef, but a raw bar, and half of the menu dedicated to vegetarian small plates! With so many new openings, we haven’t even been able to mention the arrival finally of Native Tongues Taqueria, from BMeX Restaurants (Ox & Angela and Una), and Tuk Tuk Thai from the Thai Sa On family… watch this space!
Ask Culinaire by MALLORY FRAYN
I’m getting sick of basic summer salads; how do I make them more exciting?
Salad is the quintessential summer food. But after one too many wilted, soggy, over-dressed bowls of lettuce, a good, juicy burger starts to sound more and more appealing. So what do you do when you get sick of salads? How do you get out of that boring salad rut? First, let’s address the biggest salad faux pas: over-dressing it. Even a tablespoon or two of excess dressing can kill a salad, especially if it’s made of delicate greens like arugula. When tossing your salad, always remember to add less dressing to start and only stir in more if you need it. You can always add but you can’t take away, however if you do accidentally pour in a bit more dressing than you were anticipating, you can bulk it up with extra lettuce. It’s also important to pick the appropriate dressing for your leaves of choice. Heartier options like romaine, iceberg, and kale can stand up to
the weight of creamy, mayo-based dressings, but baby lettuces, arugula, and spinach are better suited to lighter, vinaigrette-style dressings.
A great salad is all about texture
Now that we’ve got that basic mistake dealt with, you’re on your way to salad greatness, but you can still amp it up from there. A great salad is all about texture. It needs that balance of crunch, chew, and softness to make it interesting. Cheeses like goat, feta or blue make for bright, salty bites interspersed throughout, or sticking in the realm of dairy goodness, you can
change the texture of cheese entirely by baking or frying it into a crisp. Protein also transforms a salad from a skimpy side to a substantial entrée. Try citrus-marinated prawns, Cajunseasoned chicken breast, or even grilling up a steak to slice on top for a light, summer dinner. You can’t go wrong with eggs on salad either, whether poached, soft-boiled, or even fried. Candied nuts are another go-to. There are so many different nuts to choose from and an endless number of ways to candy them. If that sounds too sweet for you, cut it with the acidity of some quick pickled veg. Heck, you can even pickle fresh fruit if you want! Superb salads are just that because they are balanced. Get creative with your favourite flavours, textures, and ingredients, and it will be hard to argue that salad is boring.
by KAREN MILLER
Ocean Wise Cookbook 2
an absolute personal favourite! Mundy has attempted to make the recipes approachable for the home chef while still making them interesting. Some are daunting, but the pictures are absolutely stunning (see "Lake Erie Pickerel Cakes with Early Summer Strawberry Gazpacho" from Calgary's River Café, p. 136) and inspiration enough to at least attempt part of the recipe. As well there are great wine pairings with each recipe by Culinaire's own Tom Firth.
Edited by Jane Mundy Whitecap Books 2014
Wow! This book is packed with so much valuable information! This is the second of the Ocean Wise cookbooks, which are part of the Vancouver Aquarium's conservation program to raise awareness about sustainable fishing practices. It has information on the status of different species and what to watch out for. It outlines changes that have occurred in the last 5 years, and is a who's who list of all types of fish, big and little, shellfish from lakes, rivers, oceans and sustainable fisheries and farms around the world. We learn about "bycatch" (catching other species), and the benefits of "FAS" (frozen at sea). The cookbook confirms that by supporting Ocean Wise we still have lots to choose from.
As in the first volume, the author has compiled many recipes from chefs and fish purveyors who support the Ocean Wise program across the country. So excited to have the fish and chips recipe from Raincity Grill in Vancouver (p. 73),
You will learn so much by reading this book, will definitely be more aware of the importance of sustainability, and hopefully more dedicated to Ocean Wise. Ocean Wise will keep us on track for the future and there is even an Ocean Wise app for that! Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.
It’s a Win:Win:Win Win: Enjoy a Mealshare meal at these 7 participating 17th Avenue SW restaurants Win: A meal will be donated to someone in need every time you enjoy a Mealshare meal Win: A chance to win one of these fabulous prizes every time you enjoy a Mealshare meal at one of these 17th Avenue restaurants! Each time you purchase a Mealshare meal in any of the partner 17th Avenue restaurants, your passport will be stickered. You will receive 1 entry into the prize draw for each sticker collected! There’s a bonus of 7 entries if you get all 7 stamps!
Culinaire Mealshare Passport :: July 2015
Mealshare will provide one meal to someone in need every time you enjoy a Mealshare menu item in one of these restaurants above.
You can win:
On July 31st, tweet your passport using hashtag #MealshareCulinaireComp or post to facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine for your chance to win these fabulous prizes - and feel good about donating so many meals to those in need!
• 1 night accommodation and breakfast for two people at either Buffalo Mountain Lodge or Emerald Lake Lodge
Visit culinairemagazine.ca for full competition details
• Dinner for 2 at Anju
• A night out at Ox and Angela for two, with cocktails to start, and sherry and wine pairings with the meal (Value $400)
• A gift certificate for a meal at Market
• Women’s Lululemon Outfit - 1 shirt, 1 pair of shorts, 1 pair of socks ($120 Value) • Men’s Lululemon Outfit - 1 shirt, 1 pair of shorts, 1 pair of socks ($120 Value) • Mealshare Prize Basket - Giftcards to 5 of our favourite partner restaurants. Leather Mealshare wrist bands. A few of our other favourite snacks, drinks and things! ($200 Value) 9
Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON
Seafood and freshness pretty much go hand-in-hand. The height of summer isn’t always the best time to sit back and sip on a big bowl of soup, but with the right ingredients, you can always encapsulate all of those bright, beautiful things you love about this time of year into one dish - and these two recipes are no exception. Tomato, Ginger and Roasted Prawn Soup Serves 4 Total cook time 2 hours 10 minutes 8 cups (2 L) cups water 4 large tomatoes, quartered 5 cm piece of ginger root, peeled 5 cm piece lemongrass 2 yellow onions, peeled and halved 4 garlic cloves 1 jalapeno, halved, seeds removed 1 lemon, quartered 1 bay leaf 1 tsp Korean red pepper flakes ½ tsp ground black pepper 1 Tbs (15 mL) sriracha 1 Tbs (15 mL) soy sauce salt (to season) 24 medium prawns (peeled and tails removed) 1 Tbs (15 mL) camelina oil salt and pepper 3 green onions (thinly sliced)
1. Place first 14 ingredients in a large
pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Reduce to low heat, cover and let mixture gently simmer for 2 hours.
2. Next, remove pot from heat and
once soup has cooled slightly, pour through a fine mesh strainer several times to remove as much of the solids as possible. Soup should have a light red hue to it.
3. Preheat oven to 425º F. Toss prawns in camelina oil, season with salt and pepper and place into a baking dish. Let roast until cooked through, about 5-6 minutes.
4. To serve, place 6 prawns and some of the sliced green onions into 4 separate bowls. Ladle soup over top and serve immediately. *Note: this soup can also be served chilled.
Fresh Coast Clam Chowder Serves 3-4 Total cook time 30 minutes ½ cup (120 mL) white wine 1 cup (240 mL) water 1 lemon, zested and juiced 1 clove garlic, minced ½ tsp salt 20 fresh manila clams, washed and scrubbed 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock 1 cup (240 mL) water 3 red potatoes, diced 2 shallots, diced 1 small zucchini, diced 3 cups spring greens 6 radishes, diced 2 Tbs (30 mL) basil pesto salt and pepper, to season
1. Place the first 5 ingredients in a
large pan and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Once simmering, add clams and cover. Let cook, shaking the pan occasionally until all of the clams pop open, about 5 minutes or so. Encapsulate all of those bright, beautiful things you love about this time of year into one dish
2. Remove from heat, transfer cooked clams to a bowl and allow to cool. Reserve remaining liquid from pan.
4. Add in the potatoes, shallots and
zucchini, reduce to medium heat and let cook until potatoes are tender, approximately 10 minutes.
5. While they are cooking, remove all clam meat from the shells, and give a rough chop.
6. Once the potatoes are tender, add the chopped clam meat, as well as the remaining ingredients and let cook for another 10 minutes.
7. Finally, season to taste with salt and pepper before serving.
3. Next, place remaining liquid from the pan, along with the chicken stock and water into a medium pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat.
Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside 11
Boyd’s Lobster Shop:
Decades Of Success With Ocean Bounty by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL
When Paul Cormier started working at Boyd’s Lobster Shop in 1987, he never expected to have a decades-long career in seafood.
Originally taking the job because it was close to his home and he was tired of travelling around the city selling snacks as a Nut Man, Cormier started working for Blaise and Linda Boyd, who opened the fish and seafood shop in 1976. After that, it didn’t take long for Cormier to fall in love with selling seafood. When the Boyds moved back to their original home of Antigonish, Nova Scotia in 2001, so that Blaise could resume his previous career as a fisherman and go back to catching seafood rather than selling it, Cormier and his brother Gerard decided to
buy the business, which they still run together nearly 15 years later. Just as it did under Blaise and Linda’s watch, Boyd’s sells a wide variety of fresh and frozen seafood — the kind that Calgarians just can’t find in their local grocery stores. Relying on the seasonality of fishing schedules, depending on the time of year, customers can find both farmed and wild salmon, mussels and oysters, Arctic char, shrimp and scallops, crab, swordfish, shark, lobster, and many other kinds of fish and shellfish. Cormier said that there was a steep learning
inch of thickness. From there, you can dress the fish with the seasoning, sauce, or condiment of your choice and experiment with different flavours and recipes. It’s not quite foolproof, but it’s just as easy, and usually quicker, than cooking pork, beef, or chicken, and Cormier hopes that as people realize this, they’ll be more likely to try cooking fish or other seafood at home.
curve when he first started working at the shop nearly 30 years ago, but staying on top the educational aspect of seafood has kept Boyd’s successful. “Product knowledge is everything,” Cormier says. “If you’re going to sell something, you need to learn about your product. To this day, I’m always learning and there’s always something new. If I don’t have an answer to a customer’s questions, I’m going to find out, for my own sake as well as theirs.” Staying on top the educational aspect of seafood has kept Boyd’s successful The biggest educational component that comes with Cormier’s job, however, is teaching his customers about the various products he sells and convincing them how easy they are to prepare at home. Despite our geographical situation, Calgarians love their seafood — look at the popularity of fish-based dishes in our local restaurants — but it seems to be something that many of us are gun shy about when it comes to cooking it up at home. One issue is just teaching people about the differences between different species: most of us are familiar with salmon and halibut, but Boyd also carries less common fish that may seem intimidating to some customers. Options like shark or even mahi mahi can be a harder sell.
“There’s products that you need to develop a market for and it takes time,” Cormier admits. “People have to be willing to try something new. One thing about seafood is that you have that whole range of different characteristics. They have different textures, different consistencies, different flavours. You can take the same recipe and apply it to a number of different types of fish and you’re going to have a different experience.” Cormier tells his customers to adhere to the “golden rule” of cooking fish: no matter what cooking method you choose (grilling, broiling, poaching, etc) to cook at a high heat and allow for 10 to 12 minutes of cooking time for each
“If you go out to a restaurant you’re going to be very limited in what you’re able to get and the costs are so much higher,” he says. “Because it’s such a perishable item, there are more risks involved for restaurants that serve it. But if you can cook it, there’s such a big reward. Financially it’s going to cost you a lot less and you can also do it up the way you like to do it, or experiment.”
You can take the same recipe and apply it to a number of different types of fish and you’re going to have a different experience
Like any business that’s been operating for almost 40 years, Boyd’s has developed a loyal following of customers who “get” the concept of cooking and eating seafood on a regular basis, and Cormier says that he has several customers that started coming in with their parents as kids who could barely reach the counter and are now routinely serving seafood to their own families. Cormier firmly believes that once people get used to buying and cooking his products they gain the confidence to try new varieties and discover new treats from the sea, opening the door to all kinds of new culinary experiences. “There’s a reason we do carry a huge selection — people do want to explore,” Cormier says. “The sea offers a huge variety of product.”
Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs. 13
Chefs' Tips Tricks! Seafood: Cooked and Raw by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Whether it’s oysters slurped back raw or salmon grilled on the barbecue, nothing beats fresh seafood in the summertime. These chefs’ tips are sure to put you on the right track for purchasing and preparing the best fish for family meals and outdoor dinner parties alike! Chef Daniel Norcott Catch
If it’s opened a little bit and doesn’t close when you tap it, it means that the oyster is dead, which doesn’t make for pleasant eating. Purchase them as close to serving as possible, and always be sure to keep them cold, preferably on ice.
Many view oysters as a special occasion food, something reserved for fancy dinners out, paired with champagne of course. But don’t be fooled, oysters are Once you’ve got your oysters, it’s time just as easy (and cheaper!) to prepare at home, once you get the hang of it at least. to shuck. First off, get yourself an oyster-shucking knife for best results. If anyone knows oysters, it’s Chef Daniel Norcott at Catch, arguably Calgary’s top seafood restaurant. When buying You want to look oysters, he’s got a few tips to keep in for oysters that are mind. “You want to look for oysters that closed tight are closed tight,” Chef Norcott says.
Showstopper Hot Sauce
Chef Daniel Norcott
“Insert the blade with moderate force and vibration, if necessary, at the hinge between the two shells,” chef says. Twist until the oyster pops open, then run the blade along the top and bottom halves to sever the abductor muscles, freeing the oyster from its shell. Slurp it back with some lemon, hot sauce or just as is!
Showstopper Hot Sauce
Makes about 2½ cups of sauce 2 cups hot banana pepper rings, reserve liquid that will come with them 3 garlic cloves, peeled 2-5 cm piece of peeled gingerroot 1 Tbs turmeric, ground 1 Tbs coriander, ground 1 Tbs mustard powder 100 mL honey
1. Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until loose, but not chunky.
2. Taste: The sauce should start hot and finish sweet.
3. Adjust: If you want it a bit spicier,
add some of the reserved pickling liquid. If you want it a bit sweeter, add some more honey. 14
Chef Toshiyuki “Iwa” Iwai Hapa Izakaya How often do you prepare sushi at home? Rarely? Well that doesn’t have to be the case; it’s not as complicated as you might assume. In its simplest form, sushi is only rice and fish, so get those two components right and you are ready to eat! Chef Toshiyuki Iwai of Hapa Izakaya has just the tips to get you started. First, “only use sashimi grade fish if consuming it raw,” he says. You should also keep it refrigerated at all times. Even when defrosting frozen fish, it’s best thawed in the fridge overnight, rather than on the counter at room temperature. When it comes time to slice it, a sharp knife is your best friend, although it doesn’t have to be perfect because wrapping it around the rice hides any imperfections. As for the rice, any short grain Japanese variety works best. Rinse it under cold water before cooking to wash off any excess starch, helping to promote that characteristic stickiness. Chef Iwai’s Temari sushi is perfect for your first foray into the world of sushi. A disc of rice draped in either salmon or tuna, it makes for the perfect bite as a snack or appetizer! Chef Toshiyuki Iwai
Temari Sushi Fish: 30g sashimi grade sockeye salmon 30g sashimi grade hamachi (yellowtail) 30g sashimi grade ahi tuna
Sushi rice: 1 cup good quality short grain rice 2 Tbs (30 mL) rice vinegar 2 Tbs sugar 1 tsp salt
Miso Truffle Sauce: 2 Tbs white miso 1 tsp (5 mL) mirin 2 tsp (10 mL) rice vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) honey 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil ½ tsp (2.5 mL) Japanese soy sauce Truffle oil, to taste Shiso leaf, to garnish
1. Rinse and steam the rice with
1 cup (240 mL) of water, ideally in a rice cooker.
2. While the rice steams, mix together
the rice vinegar, sugar, and salt in a small mixing bowl. Once the rice is fully cooked, transfer it to a large mixing bowl, add the vinegar solution, mix until all the rice is coated, then let the rice sit
at room temperature covered in a clean, moist tea towel for 20 minutes.
3. To make the truffle sauce, add the
white miso, mirin, rice vinegar, honey, canola oil, soy sauce, and a couple dashes of truffle oil to a mixing bowl and whisk until the sauce starts to thicken up.
In its simplest form sushi is only rice and fish
4. Cut two pieces of each type of
sashimi fish. Lay a small (~ 15 cm) piece of plastic wrap on your counter, and lay one piece of sashimi on it. Grab a small handful of sushi rice and form it into a rough ball. Using the plastic, wrap the ball up and form the sushi into a nice ball with your hands. Remove the plastic wrap and repeat for the remaining sashimi.
5. Finish the sashimi pieces off with
the miso truffle sauce, and garnish with shiso. If you can find micro-shiso greens, they are ideal, but regular shiso will do just fine. Pair with your finest sake. 15
Chef Kentaro Matsuura
Chef Kentaro Matsuura Japanese Consulate The Japanese are known for their preparation of fish, both raw and cooked, so there’s no better person to ask about cooking and eating seafood than the chef at the Japanese Consulate here in Calgary, Chef Kentaro Matsuura. “Japanese cuisine” itself is often associated exclusively with sushi in Canada, but that isn’t the only food they are known for. “Nowadays in Japan, we can easily get ingredients from all over the world so that has influenced the foods we eat and cook,” Chef Matsuura says. Japanese home cooking includes ingredients from other countries such as France, China, Italy, and Mexico. Take for example the white wine used in Chef Matsuura’s broiled salmon and mushrooms, paired with more traditional Japanese ingredients like white miso and soy sauce. When it comes to preparing fish, a staple in the Japanese diet, “it’s important to get good, fresh fish that doesn’t have a strong smell and is bright in colour,” he says. It’s a delicate protein so it’s critical not to use too high a heat or over-cook it either. And remember to save those fish bones as well! Good fish stock is, after all, the essence of Japanese cooking according to Chef Matsuura, so don’t let the bones go to waste! 16
Broiled Salmon and Mushrooms
Broiled Salmon and Mushrooms Serves 1
80g salmon 30g enoki mushrooms 30g white mushrooms 15g green onions 10g butter 2 tsp white miso 2 tsp (10 mL) soy sauce 2 tsp sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) white wine
1. Cut the salmon, enoki mushrooms
and white mushrooms into small, bitesized pieces. Thinly slice the green onions and set aside.
2. In a separate bowl mix together
the white miso, soy sauce, sugar and white wine.
3. Prepare aluminum foil and pinch
both sides to make space for all of the ingredients. Put the salmon, mushrooms and mixed miso/soy mixture into the foil and bake at 390° F for 10 minutes. Good fish stock is the essence of Japanese cooking
4. After 10 minutes, put the green onions and butter into the foil and continue baking for 3 minutes.
5. Serve and enjoy! Mallory is a food writer living and learning in Calgary, and Culinaire’s Digital Media Editor. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat
STO P I N FO R A BITE . A NEW DINING EXPERIENCE AT THE
10 Things You Should Know About Dining Etiquette:
Japanese Style by MARIA DOLL
1. Japanese culture is based on an
overall respect and dignity for others. They highly value living in harmony. And they also love their food! Did you know that ramen and sushi are adapted from Chinese cuisine? Or that Japanese curry is influenced by India? After the Second World War the Japanese began eating more meat, consequently they have incorporated hamburgers from the Americans.
2. When the food is served, your
Japanese companions will put their hands in the “Namaste” gesture and say quietly, “Itadakimasu” (eata-da-kimaa-su) – the phrase literally translates as “I humbly receive”. The gesture is an expression of gratitude for the combined efforts of many in growing and preparing the meal about to be consumed. 18
3. Serve yourself a bit of sauce like
wasabi or soy by pouring a small amount into your dish. The Japanese consider it wasteful to use too much sauce. While they won’t put soy sauce directly on their rice, drizzling some soy sauce on your rice is perfectly fine here.
Dip your sushi fish-side down into the soy dish
4. Dip your sushi fish-side down into
the soy dish, and then bring it to your mouth for one or two bites. Let the complex flavours explode on the tongue. Try eating sushi with your fingers; not chopsticks. However, sashimi is eaten with chopsticks.
5. When eating rice or soup, bring
the entire bowl closer to your mouth to avoid spills. While slurping of the noodles is allowed in Japan, this may not be too appealing for your dining companions.
6. The dish of pickled ginger on the
table is actually for cleansing the palate in between mouthfuls of sushi and also aids in digestion.
7. If you wish to share your food, try
doing it Japanese-style. Place a morsel of food onto a small plate and then pass to the person. Exchanging food at the table from chopsticks to chopsticks is considered a very offensive gesture reminiscent of when a Japanese family sifts through the ashes of a deceased loved one using chopsticks.
8. Try not to plant your chopsticks in a
bowl of rice - in the Japanese tradition it resembles the burning of incense sticks at a funeral. Instead, lay your chopsticks on the chopsticks holder or at the edge of your individual plate so they don’t roll on to the floor.
Japanese culture is based on an overall respect and dignity for others
9. Sake (sah keh) is a popular drink
among the Japanese. Ask your server for advice on pairing sake with sushi, sashimi or anything else. The traditional way of drinking sake is fun to incorporate with your friends at the table. Each person is given an individual jug of sake called tokkuri. You don’t serve yourself but serve your closest dining companion instead. And your neighbour will happily oblige filling up your glass, too. Once everyone has been served, raise the glass and say “Kanpai ” (Gahn Pie) which loosely means “Cheers”!
10. Thank the Host by saying
“Gochisosama deshita!” (Goh Chee Soh Sah Mah Deh Shee Tah) —Thank you for this great meal…an important phrase in any language! Maria Doll is an Etiquette and Style Consultant, and has developed courses for youths in leadership, careers, self-image, manners and etiquette, as well as business etiquette, dining etiquette and more, for adults. Find her at leadership-matters.biz.
Glenbow Archives ND-3-6850B
THE RIVER FORTH
A VINTAGE DINING CAR EXP ERIENCE
Originally a 1929 Canadian Pacific solarium, the River Forth has been recommissioned as an elegant 1920s dining car. Pulled by an antique steam engine around Heritage Park, this unique dining experience is complete with a historically inspired menu created by Executive Chef Jan Hansen. Weekly lunches and private bookings available. RESERVATIONS 403.268.8500
1900 Heritage Dr SW, Calgary
Ways to Spice Up Sundaes by MALLORY FRAYN
Nothing says summer like a giant bowl of ice cream; and not just a few scoops in a cup or cone, but a sundae complete with all the fixings! Here are some tips to turn a nostalgic favourite into an updated delight to put a smile on anyone’s face, young or old. 1. The ice cream It goes without saying that the most critical element in a sundae is the ice cream itself. There’s no cheaping out here; you want to make sure you start with a stellar foundation so that you can build from it. Admittedly you could make your own ice cream, but without the high-end equipment of a professional kitchen, it’s difficult to incorporate enough air with a home ice cream maker to achieve the same, meltin-your-mouth consistency. As for flavours, chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry may be classic, but there are plenty of other pairings to choose from. Coconut and banana? Hazelnut and caramel? Raspberry and mint? The options are limitless! Finally, for those who don’t eat dairy, whether by choice or due to an 20
intolerance, have no fear, sundaes aren’t off the table. Try to get your hands on some coconut milk ice cream, or even make your own banana “ice cream” by blending frozen bananas until creamy. You can have your sundae and eat it too!
2. Whipped cream Have you ever had a sundae and wondered if there’s actually some ice cream hidden underneath the mountain of whipped cream it’s topped with? If you’re going to go the whipped cream route, it has to be as good as the ice cream itself, such that one doesn’t outshine the other. Really, anything that isn’t out of an aerosol will do. Plus, when you make it yourself, you can control the sugar content so your teeth don’t fall out from all of the sweetness. Virtually unsweetened vanilla bean whip would do nicely, but you can also try adding in a spoonful of cocoa powder for chocolate whipped cream. Infusing the cream with tea prior to chilling and whipping is another way to add some grown-up flavour.
3. Toppings and fixings
Salted Caramel Sauce
When you think about, is there really anything you can’t top a sundae with? Other than maybe garlic and onions, you can’t really go wrong – even some maple-candied bacon bits would work. The key with sundae toppings is texture. You definitely want crunch, maybe from some nut brittle or crushed pretzel pieces. Candy also works wonders; try chewy gummy bears or crispy sponge toffee.
1 cup white sugar ½ cup (120 mL) heavy (whipping) cream ½ tsp sea salt water, as needed
4. Switch up the serving device Although it may seem like a secondary factor, the dish in which you serve your sundae has a huge effect on the overall eating experience. While shallow bowls allow you to sample a bit of everything at once, you have to work through tall glasses layer by layer, making them the perfect option for hiding sweet treats at the bottom. You can even make an edible bowl by shaping tuiles into cup shapes before they cool and harden!
6. Sauces The sauce is what sets a sundae apart from traditional ice cream. Skip the store-bought squeeze bottles and make your own, why don’t you? It’s really no more difficult than popping a premade jar of hot fudge sauce in the microwave. The most basic chocolate sauce is all of two ingredients: good chocolate and heavy cream. Melt them together, perhaps adding a pinch of salt to bring out the nuances in the chocolate, and spoon it over the ice cream to your heart’s content. Homemade salted caramel (just sugar, cream, and salt) and fruit coulis (pureed fruit and sugar) are just as easy to whip up at a moment’s notice.
1. Add the sugar to a pot with a splash of water to help it dissolve.
2. Cook over medium high heat
until the sugar dissolves and begins to caramelize, swirling the pot occasionally.
3. Once the sugar is a rich, caramel
brown colour, remove it from the heat and pour in the cream and salt. Watch your face, as it will steam up and bubble quite furiously!
4. Return the pot to low heat and
stir constantly until everything is incorporated. Once it forms a cohesive sauce, it’s ready to serve!
5. The cherry on top Topping a gourmet sundae with a lackluster maraschino cherry is sacrilege, don’t even try and deny it! Summers in the west bring an abundance of fresh, B.C. cherries so why not take advantage of beautiful, seasonal produce? Macerate them in bourbon or cognac and a spoonful of sugar for a boozy kick. Or try dipping them in chocolate, any chocolate. Even served as is, fresh cherries speak for themselves!
WHERE CITY ELEGANCE MEETS COUNTRY CHARM
Fish Creek Park - 15979 Bow Bottom Trail SE, Calgary, AB 403.476.1310 | firstname.lastname@example.org www.bvrrestaurant.com | RancheYYC Bow Valley Ranche - 1-3 Page Square Culinaire Ad July August 2015.indd 1
2015-05-25 10:27 PM
The Rise Of Artisan Ice Cream In Calgary by DAN CLAPSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Manuel Latruwe 22
Most of us have memories of being a kid, sitting outside in the hot sun, grasping a waffle cone with a big scoop of ice cream nestled on top, trying to devour it before it would start to melt down the cone onto your hands (it always did anyway) and without getting a brain freeze (but, you usually did). As we get older, those dog days of summer that were accented by cooling ice cream moments may be a little less frequent, but still as enjoyable and refreshing as ever. This is no surprise to anyone unless you’ve just come out of being cryogenically frozen, but in recent years, all major North American cities have seen a massive resurgence of locally-made edibles and drinkables, whether that be craft beer, liquor, charcuterie... the list can go on and on, and ice cream is certainly no exception to this movement. Here are four places in Calgary making ice cream for us all to enjoy when we want to cool down throughout the summer.
Manuel Latruwe If you are having a hard time picturing where this patisserie would be, that’s probably because it’s located just off of Macleod Trail and 13th Avenue, on the same block as Chocolatier Bernard Callebaut, a block that most people zoom by on their way to and from work.
With everything here from freshly baked croissants and lemon tarts to beautiful cakes and macarons, ice cream may only be a small part of the business, but there’s just as much attention to detail in their line of frozen treats as anything else on the menu. Try taking home a pint of pistachio or tiramisu or simply grab a scoop of your choice to go. Might as well get a pain au chocolat while you’re at it. Nothing wrong with pairing well-made ice cream with a buttery, flaky pastry! 1333 1 St SE, 403-261-1092 manuellatruwe.com
Crepes and Cravings This often-overlooked eatery, right smack dab in the middle of 17th Avenue SW prides itself on offering a mix of savoury and sweet treats, like Belgian waffles with berries, warm crepes filled with smoked salmon, cream cheese
Crepes and Cravings
and capers, to name a few, but a lot of people may not realise they are churning out their own ice cream here too. Here, you’ll find 30+ flavours of ice cream and gelato with traditional flavours like chocolate, vanilla and strawberry. Open since 2009, this is the only spot on 17th Avenue that offers house made ice cream, so skip the convenience store popsicles nearby and make this your top priority. 1013 17 Ave SW, 403-228-6523 crepeseandcravings.com @CrepesCravings
Crepes and Cravings 23
Made By Marcus
organic dairy from Vital Greens, which if you’ve never had the pleasure of trying before, is certainly top notch. With only a handful of flavours available, the Made By Marcus line only stays classic with two offerings, vanilla and salted caramel, while the others, Cardamom Raspberry, Lemon Curd and Wild Blueberry and Campfire S’more, are bold blends of flavours, making you wonder why you ever bought pints of ice cream at the grocery store to begin with.
Made By Marcus Even though Marcus Purtzki has only been churning ice cream for a couple of years, many of us have eaten his sweet creations on more than one occasion by way of his beautiful macarons that you can find all around Calgary at places like Kawa Espresso or Blush Lane Organic Market. After making macarons for years, he branched out and to some delicious results. Purtzki doesn’t cheap out with his small batch ice cream, using free range eggs from a farm outside of Lethbridge and Made By Marcus
Available at retail locations like Bridgeland Market and Our Daily Brett. Check madebymarcus.ca for all locations. All major North American cities have seen a massive resurgence of locally-made edibles… and ice cream is certainly no exception
Village Ice Cream Though there had been other artisan ice creams on the market in the city prior to 2012, Village Ice Cream (no relation to Village Brewery) made a big splash in the food scene, making small batches of vanilla bean and salted caramel ice cream that people just couldn’t seem to get enough of. Three years later, owner Billy Friley’s small ice cream endeavour has grown notably, expanding to ten flavours (including unique varieties Village Ice Cream
like earl grey or cardamom) and most recently, a second location in Britannia Village. Many top restaurants in the city also stock their ice cream, using it to accent different desserts or simply just offering it by the scoop. Village’s original location on 10th Avenue SE, just a hop, skip and a jump from the East Village, is especially busy during the warmer months with many eager folks waiting in long line-ups to grab a scoop or two before they head over to the nearby river paths. Ask most Calgarians and they’ll tell you that you’ll have a hard time finding an ice cream that can top Village’s signature salted caramel. It’s raised the bar pretty high, but if you ask me, a little frozen, creamy healthy competition is always a good thing! Two locations: 431 10th Ave. SE and 820 49th Ave. SW villageicecream.com, @villageicecream
SAVE THE BEAR THE GRIZZLY PAW
In future, a portion of all keg and case sales will go to WildSmart in aid of programs that contribute towards sustainable populations of bears and other wildlife.
1331 - 9th Ave SE, Calgary, AB 403.532.8222
CA LGA RY
E DMON TON
1316 9th Avenue SE
K ELOW NA
1316 9th Avenue SE
Step By Step: Corndogs by RENEE KOHLMAN
Ah, summer. There’s nothing like it! Lakes, camping, fishing, hammocks, sandals. It’s also that time of year when the Stampede comes to town. Whether you live in a small town or giant city, chances are for a few days this summer there will be rides, games and deep-fried foods tempting you to part with your cash (and for some of us, our inhibitions). We wander among the throng of thrill seekers, looking to win that giant stuffed panda for our main squeeze. The brave wait in seemingly unmoving line-ups, only to get the bejeebers scared out of them for ten seconds on some sort of Drop of Doom. Some of us will ride around in teacups and pretend we are still young. But, what almost all of us want when we walk through the gates is food that isn’t good for us. The more deep-fried, the better. Enter the corn dog. It’s a once a year treat, a guilty pleasure among the many to be had on a typical fairground this summer.
What almost all of us want when we walk through the gates is food that isn’t good for us.
If heading to the Stampede grounds isn’t your thing, and yet you crave a corndog, I’m here to tell you that making your own at home is super easy. Plus, no parking nightmares, and no line-ups! First off, this involves deep-frying so safety first is number one. Make sure your pot is wide and deep, to prevent any spurts of oil coming your way. Heat oil to the proper temperature, too. This will ensure even cooking. Use long tongs when handling the dogs, and never move oil while it is still hot. 26
The batter is simply flour, cornmeal, buttermilk and eggs. I added some smoked paprika, cumin and dry mustard to jazz things up a bit. While the oil heats, make the batter and skewer the wieners. Pour the batter into something narrow and deep, like a small pitcher or drinking glass. Submerge the skewered hot dogs completely into the batter, then carefully slide into hot oil. It only takes a few minutes for them to turn golden brown; u se your tongs to flip them over, if you need to. Remove, drain on paper towels and serve with gussied up mustard and ketchup. Eat these crispy corn dogs while they are hot. And there you have it - carnival food to make at home whenever the mood strikes. But if you still want to win that giant stuffed panda on the midway, you’re on your own there.
Corn Dogs with Maple Mustard and Balsamic Ketchup Makes 8 corn dogs
2 L canola oil for deep-frying 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup cornmeal ¼ cup cane sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp smoked paprika ½ tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp dry mustard fresh black pepper 1 cup (240 mL) buttermilk, room temperature 1 large egg, room temperature 8 precooked beef hot dogs or sausages
Dipping sauces: 3 Tbs (45 mL) Dijon mustard 2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup 3 Tbs (45 mL) ketchup 1 tsp (5 mL) balsamic vinegar
1. Fill a deep, wide pot with the canola oil. Heat over medium high to a temperature of 360º F.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together dry ingredients.
3. In a small bowl, beat together the buttermilk and egg.
Whisk this into the dry ingredients. Pour into a deep water glass or small pitcher for dunking.
4. Stick long skewers into hot dogs. If too long, cut a few inches off skewers you’ll need them to fit into the pot. Dip the wieners into the batter, submerging completely.
5. Place two at a time in the hot oil and deep fry until golden brown, turning them over with tongs to ensure even cooking. Remove with tongs onto a paper towel lined plate and repeat the process until all wieners are corn dogs. To make the dipping sauces: Combine mustard and maple syrup together in small bowl. Combine ketchup and balsamic vinegar together in small bowl. Serve with corn dogs. Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon. She writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda's Café. Check out her blog sweetsugarbean.com
by TOM FIRTH
Sometimes it’s too early for a beer, and having a glass of wine to quench my thirst during the day still seems a bit hard-core. Water, fruit juice, and soft drinks are acceptable beverages to enjoy almost any time of day - though my mother frowned on us kids having a pop before breakfast was finished - but before lunch was okay as long as it wasn’t every day. But as I’ve grown up, I drink far fewer soft drinks than I did as a wee lad. I find that I crave them less and less, finally getting to the point where I really don’t think about them as a thirst-quenching option. I still drink the odd ginger ale, the occasional root beer, and once in a blue moon - a Dr. Pepper. I’m only human. I’m certainly not going to discuss the unholy chemical slurry that is the energy drink here. I’m just talking about the flavour of energy drinks, I have no idea if 28
“Brimstone” is an ingredient. I’m also not opposed to the “big bottlers” of Coke and Pepsi, though most likely I occasionally enjoy one of their bottled waters or sugar-laden fruit juices if I’m not in the mood for a carbonated beverage.
I still drink the odd ginger ale, and once in a blue moon - a Dr. Pepper. I’m only human.
There have always been alternatives to the juggernauts. We’ve all experienced the “I’ll have a Coke-Is Pepsi ok?”
conversation in some form or another as restaurant chains, movie theatres, or sporting venues sign on with a particular brand, but there was always the “Old Pop Shoppe” (recently back from the dead), or one of the discount supermarket brands that never quite tasted the same - but pop is finally going the craft route. Soft drinks are big business in Canada, dominated by the big players you know - outside the major groups, only a sliver, about 3-5% of the beverage market, remains. Boylan, Fentiman’s, Jarrito, Q Kola, and many others are on shelves here, including the fine folks at Grizzly Paw Brewing in Canmore, who took the plunge and are making soft drinks too.
might just be better for you than HFCS or any of the “modern” low calorie sweeteners, like Aspartame. The little guys seem to be experimenting more with natural flavours, you know… ingredients you might have in your kitchen.
What seems to separate the big guys from the little ones? Aside from simply the size of the bottler, after several years of warnings about excessive soda consumptions, the big guys seem to me to be more interested in switching to low calorie sweeteners - after all, calories in-calories out. While the smaller guys seem to be making the switch away from high fructose corn syrup (HFCS-the sweetener of choice for many products), and moving to plain old-fashioned cane syrup, which
Local brewery and… soda manufacturer Grizzly Paw Brewery recently got into the soda business, and Kristina Cardinale, the Sales and Marketing Manager for the brewery tells us that, “We are the only hand-crafted soda company in Alberta. We use fresh water out of the Canmore reservoir, and cane sugar. None of our products have caffeine or artificial flavours.” They are also using about 2/3 less sugar than other soft drinks sweetening their products with cane sugar.
Most of these smaller “craft” soft drink bottlers are emerging in the United States and abroad. It’s a cutthroat business and the Canadian market is still a little on the small side to start up a soft drink company in your garage or in your bathtub. Growth of the innovators might end up coming from restaurants or grocers that want to experiment with having a house brand on the menu. That said, you might only find these at local or smaller grocers, but they are worth trying out on a hot day.
There have always been alternatives to the juggernauts. We’ve all experienced the “I’ll have a Coke-Is Pepsi ok?” conversation as restaurant chains, movie theatres, or sporting venues sign on with a particular brand
Q Drinks Kola
From New York, and made with Kola nuts and a number of natural flavourings (like coriander and cloves) while sweetened with agave syrup but overall pretty mild. It’s perfect for mixing and enjoying solo. In a larger bottle for about $9-10
Virgil’s Orange Cream Soda
I went in expecting the worst, but if you are a pineapple fan, the flavours are on track and despite the flavour, it isn’t too sweet. $2-3
Fentiman’s Curiosity Cola
Really popular with the mixology crowd, some of the flavours from this English brand are a bit out there. Botanically brewed, there isn’t much else like them 30
on the market. Their cola is mild on cola taste (compared to some) but not too sweet and with an earthy, “rooty” finish. $2-3 per bottle
Boylan’s Black Cherry
Popular stuff and pretty easy to find on shelves. My new favourite from them? The black cherry - it’s tart, cherry-like and crazy good. I’m stocking up-maybe a mixed pack with the root beer... $2-3
Touting a bevy of natural ingredients for all the flavours, the root beer is awesome stuff but a little spicy. For those that like cream sodas, their orange cream soda is like an orange creamsicle. Delicious. $2-3
Grizzly Paw Cream Soda
The local guys - well as in Canmore local, I’m a big fan of their root beer, and their cream soda was a treat too. I found it a bit like root beer and vanilla ice cream. No complaints here from the guy that doesn’t enjoy cream sodas. $2-3
Find Your Best:
Sushi by DAN CLAPSON, LINDA GARSON, and DIANA NG
It’s midsummer now and if there’s one style of cuisine that really relies on freshness when it comes to its ingredients, it’s sushi. Some of us love a well-sliced piece of tuna sashimi while others go for the rolls that are a bit more extravagant, perhaps formed into the shape of a dragon or deep-fried on the outside. Answer these 8 questions to see which sushi spot in Calgary has the experience you’re looking for. 1. I usually find myself eating sushi… a) over the lunch hour during the workweek. b) with friends for dinner. c) only once in a while when the mood strikes.
4. The service I have come to expect from sushi restaurants I have been to is… a) polite and served. b) casual, but knowledgeable. c) bubbly and engaging.
2. I’m willing to drive to a specific area 5. The first thing that comes to mind of town if a sushi place is top notch…. when I see the word “uni” is… a) no, I’m all about proximity. a) I’ll eat it if someone else really b) you bet! wants to order it. c) yes, but no longer than a 25 b) if it’s fresh, it’s divine. minute drive. c) no thanks, I will definitely pass! 3. When people order California rolls at a Japanese restaurant, I think… a) that’s ok, it’s them that’s missing out on more interesting things, not me. b) I’m not sure we can be friends anymore. c) come on, be a little more adventurous!
6. When it comes to ordering, I usually get... a) a mix of composed appetizers and rolls. b) sashimi and traditional maki all the way, my stomach has no time for gyoza! c) a couple of old favourites and a couple of new things I haven’t tried before.
7. My drink of choice to go along with sushi is... a) a nice glass of wine or a sake cocktail. b) a bottle of sake, for sure. c) nothing boozy, I’m not a drinker. 8. The interior of a Japanese restaurant should be... a) fairly elegant, I like a refined atmosphere. b) just clean and cozy, aesthetic touches aren’t as important to me. c) a little quirky, something to set itself apart from the pack, there’s a ton of Japanese restaurants in this city!
Ki Modern Japanese (mostly As) You can’t go wrong with a cool glass of premium sake with sushi, but Ki Modern Japanese makes the experience even more stylish and delicious by pairing seasonal cocktails with Japanese food. For those who are looking to have a full sushi dinner, Ki has an extensive list of options, including sea urchin and sea bream, for nigiri and sashimi. Whether you’re craving classic rolls (maki) like the dynamite roll and the spider roll, or modern rolls like the beef maki and tempura butterfish maki, the selection here will definitely hit the spot. If a lighter dinner or some pre-dinner snacks is what you’re after, Ki’s izakaya menu features around 10 dishes, that pair well with Ki’s selection of beer, wine, sake and cocktails. Have the sliders with a beer or some tuna tacos with a cocktail.
Ki Modern Japanese
Cocktails, like their orange Creamsicle, which includes mandarin vodka, and their pomberry mojito, which includes junmai sake, incorporate Asian elements that complement the flavours in the food. With Ki located in the heart of downtown, it’s easy to head down after work for happy hour to enjoy buck-ashuck oysters, everyday. That’s right, it’ll be hard not to make this your regular happy hour spot.
Sushi Zipang (mostly Bs) Consistently noted as the best establishment in the city to find traditional sushi offerings, you can find Zipang in its humble location on 1st Avenue NE in Bridgeland. Walking in, the room is simple but clean, and there is just something in the air that tells you immediately that this place is going to do right by raw. Here, you won’t find rolls filled with strawberries, chicken and other less Sushi Zipang
Ki Modern Japanese
308 4 Ave SW, 403-264-1133 kijapanese.com, @kijapanese
traditional ingredients or served in the shape of a heart or a set aflame. Instead, what you will find is some of the most tender, melt-in-your-mouth sashimi like scallop or toro (tuna belly), warming bowls of udon noodles (perfect for a rainy day) and fresh uni. Something that is arguably an acquired taste, but most self-proclaimed expert sushi diners will sing its praises. Even when owner Naoya Umino goes a little out of the box with rolls like the signature Zipang roll, he still maintains the integrity of all flavours involved, layering them delicately one after the other. If you’re ready to graduate from sushi fan to full-blown sushi love, this is the place for you. 1010 1 Ave NE, 403-262-1888 zipang.ca
Cerezo Café and Bar
Cerezo Café and Bar (mostly Cs) It’s often said that we eat with our eyes and if it’s true, then you’ll be full in no time at Cerezo – after taste, presentation is paramount for husband and wife team Mitsuru and Misato Hara. It’s foodie photo snapper heaven! This hidden gem started offering regular night-time menus last year - and as of this year, breakfasts too (don’t miss the pork belly Eggs Benny!). You’ll want to
Evidence of this little restaurant’s past as a gift shop is everywhere, with antique sideboards adding a comfy, well-worn character, and there’s a sunny 12-seat patio at the back too that becomes shady later in the day.
are very popular, but why not get adventurous and treat yourself to their signature Ikameshi, a warm dish of whole squid stuffed with rice, ginger and tobiko, that takes twenty minute to make, or how about Foie Gras Don or Miso Cheese Tofu Puff with Fig Jam? Or try a dish from the regularly changing special menu too, such as house-cured salmon carpaccio with umi vinaigrette, and a glass from the list of wines, sakes, beers, and specialty teas and coffees!
Cerezo’s trio of sashimi, tuna tataki with three sauces, and beef tataki,
1002 Edmonton Trail NE 403-250-8894
relax and linger here; this is not fast food - it’s all prepared specially for you, including all the sauces, breads and desserts.
KINJO (mix of As, Bs and Cs)
are sure to bring smiles to the faces of ladies and kids in the house.
Have a noisy and boisterous bunch? Don’t worry; you’ll fit right into the bustling and fun atmosphere at Kinjo. While many Japanese restaurants aim to be either elegant or trendy, Kinjo has carved a niche for itself as being a family-friendly destination for sushi. Pocky chocolate-covered biscuit sticks
Grab a seat at the sushi bar and watch the wide variety of sushi on boats float by before taking a plate that whets your appetite. The menu selection here ranges from the predictable, like salmon sashimi and tuna sushi, to the more contemporary
and unexpected like the black stone roll (with tempura squid legs) and the Las Vegas roll (with jalapeno, strawberry, wonton skin, cream cheese, and spicy tuna, among other things). Of course, a restaurant cannot call itself family-friendly without doing something special for birthday boys and girls. Tell them it’s your birthday, and be prepared to be sung to by the crew. With three locations to choose from-Dalhousie, Millrise and MacLeod--it’s easy to find a Kinjo near you.
Various locations kinjosushiandgrill.com 33
Ghislain Kohut 2010 Marsannay Genelieres Burgundy, France In a word - elegant, loads of lemon zest, mineral, and red apples with a touch of old wood box and spiciness on the nose. Clean and well balanced on the palate, there is no need for food here, but if you must, I’d suggest grilled chicken salad, or lighter pork dishes. Approximately $25 CSPC +766870
Making The Case For Wine
Hardys “Stamp of Australia” Riesling Gewurztraminer, South East Australia Fun, easy-going wine is found in this bottle. Lime “Jolly Rancher”, lychee, and ginger ale with a summery floral note on the nose. The wine certainly has a little sweetness (with some acid to give it balance), but overall it’s meant for casual enjoyment, with food or without. $12 CSPC +448548
by TOM FIRTH
Summer in Calgary is always a treat; aside from the odd hail storm, occasional rain, and possibly a quick snow event, July and August are great months for getting outside, being active, and entertaining outdoors. Cuisine usually ranges from meat on the barbecue to lighter, fresher foods, while wine choices should reflect what is going to be served - I have no qualms about asking what the menu is going to be before I accept a dinner invitation 34
- helps me bring the right wine! From vinho verde to malbec, below are a number of wines suitable for almost any outdoor occasion and I hope that you enjoy these wines as much as I do.
Invivo 2013 Pinot Gris Marlborough, New Zealand Bursting with nectarines, candy cigarette, lemon drops, and floral aromas, the palate is a treat as well. Good weight and texture along with flavours consistent with the nose, it’s a little spicy on the finish - perfect for lighter fare, grilled chicken, or a salad with piles of fresh fruit. Around $18-19 CSPC +758786
Ridge Vineyards 2012 East Bench Zindandel Dry Creek Valley, California A real stunner for the table. A little hot n’ sweaty with plenty of spices including a bit of cardamom and cinnamon well balanced by intense, brambly berry fruits. Big, exuberant zin ready for sticky, saucy ribs or burgers you need a bib for. $40 or so CSPC +653451
Ridge Vineyards 2012 Three Valleys Zinfandel Sonoma, California About 80 percent of the juice in the bottle is zinfandel with a smattering of carignan, petit syrah, and alicante. Cherry cola aromas with cinnamon and ginger spices complement some blueberry fruits and a little alcohol heat. All in all, a very agreeable zin for your next barbecue. $32 CSPC +716609
Mudhouse 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand Limes and melon lead the nose with pimento, mint leaf, jalapeño, and olives. Not over the top in terms of NZ sauvignon blanc, but crisp, almost sharp acids keep things in balance. So refreshing, you’ll want to serve it well chilled with scallops, prawns, or maybe oysters. $25 CSPC +726882
Finca Las Moras “Paz” 2012 Malbec San Juan - Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina A handy bottle of malbec to keep on hand for barbecue season - black fruits, with dried herbs, spice box, coffee grounds and a nice earthiness to round out the nose. Excellent balance from start to finish, with prominent fruits and big tannins. Match with burgers, seared steaks, or good cheese. About $18 CSPC +766490
Quinta do Aveleda 2013 Vinho Verde, Portugal So few wines can match vinho verde for summertime quaffable-ness. Fresh limes with tart apple fruits and the barest tickle of CO2 on the palate. Crisp and quite dry, it’s perfect well chilled on the deck or with sashimi, salads, or appetizers. About $13-14 on most shelves CSPC +734584
Maison Brotte 2012 “Esprit Barville” Cotes du Rhone, France Bring on the barbecue! Easy, almost plump fruits with a hint of raspberry preserves and cherry pie filling, with a touch of earthy character. Tannin-wise, they are there for balance and support, but never overwhelming. About $20 CSPC +570382
Invivo 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand Fans of the “classic” New Zealand style of sauvignon blanc should love this one. Melon and apple fruits with plenty of that lime, bell pepper, and olive characters. Nice and clean on the palate with great acidity perfect for food. Don’t serve too cold to allow the fruit to come through. Around $18-19 CSPC +749787
Tinhorn Creek 2014 Oldfield Series Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia A favourite rosé at my place in summer made from cabernet franc. A touch of sweetness balanced by fine acidity and a spicy, cracked pepper and strawberry profile. Very refreshing on the deck or patio, and pairs very well with pork or light appetizers. $23 CSPC +748673
Torres 2013 De Casta Rosé Catalonia, Spain The Catalans sure know what to drink in summer. This blend of grenache and carignan is quite dry with fresh berry fruits and a decidedly tropical finish. Serve cool, but not too cold with some cold cuts or lighter pasta dishes. About $15, CSPC +619916
Refreshing Cocktails To Punch Up Your Summer by REBECCA DAVIS
Calgarians rejoice! Patios are open, and barbecue season is here! What better way to celebrate than with punch! Traditionally made from four different parts: one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak, punch is a great way to prep ahead of time and enjoy the summer rather than being stuck in the kitchen all night. One of sour: citrus. There are many different varieties you may use, lemons, limes, oranges, clementines, Meyer lemons, and tangerines to name a few. What is available really depends on the time of year. When picking out citrus look for firm skin and fruit that is heavy for its size. Something that often gets overlooked is the citrus rind. Citrus is usually covered in wax to preserve the fruit and control its ripening. Make sure this wax is washed off, as it does not contribute to the flavour of your punch. Two of sweet: sugar. Again there are many different sweeteners you may use. White and brown sugars, honey, agave, and maple, all add a sweetness and flavour to balance out the sour. I prefer to make a simple syrup as it tends to dissolve easier into a drink. To make a basic simple syrup, pick your sweetener of choice. I prefer a 2:1 ratio: 2 parts sugar, 1 part water. In a small pot, slowly heat up the water to a simmer (it is important to not let this boil) and add your sugar to the water. Stir well until dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool. Things get really fun when you flavour your simple syrup. The addition of fresh herbs, spices or fruits can really vamp up your syrup. If you are flavouring your syrup, I suggest adding your flavouring to the water before adding sugar for better results. Once strained of all large particles, add your sugar and stir well. The possibilities are endless!
Aperol Spring Punch
Three of strong: spirits. Rum punches date as far back as the 1600s. A ‘cup’, usually a lower alcohol version of punch, was served in England before or after the hunt. The base started as wine or brandy but was modernized with the revolution of the rum punch and the use of Jamaican rum. In recent years, vodka, gin, whiskey and bitters have all been used. At the end of the day it is all about personal preference. Four of weak: lengtheners. Traditionally tea was used, which adds an amazing complexity of flavour. Any nonalcoholic juice, tea or infused water will do. Playing with the flavours of the first three ingredients can determine which lengthener to use: black tea & bourbon; pineapple juice & rum; tonic & gin. It is all about experimentation. Below are three punches to try this summer!
1 750 mL bottle gin 1 L pink lemonade 1 cup agave syrup (2 cups hot water, 1 cup agave, stir well) ½-1 cup grapefruit juice, or to taste 1 bunch fresh mint, chopped 2 limes, chopped
In a pitcher or bowl, muddle limes with agave syrup. Add all other ingredients. Stir well. Add ice. Garnish with mint sprigs.
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1 750 mL bottle Aperol 1 L sparkling water, or sparkling wine! 1 cup ginger syrup** ½ cup fresh lemon juice
In a large bowl or vessel, Combine all ingredients with ice and stir well. Garnish with lime and lemon wheels.
1 750 mL bottle bourbon 1 L strong peach flavoured black tea, cooled* 1 cup simple syrup, using white sugar juice and peels of three lemons and 1 orange
At the bottom of your punchbowl, muddle citrus rinds and sugar. If possible let this sit for a half hour or so, as it does add some complexity. Add citrus juice, tea, and bourbon. Stir well. Add ice, preferable a large block to keep from over diluting. *Black Tea 3-4 teabags 1 L boiling water
Let teabags soak for 10-15 minutes. Strain and let cool.
Punch is a great way to prep ahead of time and enjoy the summer
Yield approx. 1 cup 1 large knob of ginger, peeled and sliced thin ½ tsp whole peppercorns 2 cups water 1 cup sugar
In a pot add water and ginger and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium and let sit for 15 minutes. Strain out large particles. Add sugar, stir well until dissolved. Let cool. A born and raised Calgarian, Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Originally a sommelier, she instinctively progressed into cocktails.On her days off Rebecca enjoys a classic Old Fashioned.
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Pass Me a Cold One!
The Joys of a Frosty Beer
by KIRK BODNAR
This past Victoria Day weekend, I decided to forego any camping or slushy skiing plans, and rather focused on getting a head start on some yard work. Of course, being a typical “Alberta MayLong”, it was necessary to wait out the rain (and snow), but as the Monday rolled around, the weather turned out to be beautiful, and I was able to get in a solid day in the yard.
After spending four hours under a warm sun, my amazing wife must have felt that I deserved an ice-cold beer (bless her heart…). She quickly realized that we were out of the flavourful craft beer that I typically enjoyed – so she went with a tall can of PBR that was left over from a recent visit from my in-laws. She reservedly poured it into a glass and brought it out to me. And you know what? That big, frosty glass of gorgeousness completely hit the spot! Ice-cold beer on a hot day just works – who knew? Call them lawnmower beers, patio beers, or even camping beers – in any case, hot summer weather and ice-cold beers go together like bacon ‘n eggs, or
Bert and Ernie. The only problem here is that chilling a beer down to ice-cold temperatures – though refreshing on a hot day – does absolutely nothing good for the flavour of a beer. So why do most of us prefer our beer to be ice cold? One of the main reasons that the big-name, light lagers are marketed in such a way as to be served ice cold (some brands even integrate special temperature-reactive ink on the bottles and cans that change colour when they have reached the desired “coldcertified” temperature) is that they taste better when very cold. Put simply, when beer is very cold, the flavour and aromatic compounds are greatly subdued. So beers that inherently lack desirable flavours essentially taste better when their flavour and aroma is diminished further at cold temperatures.
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Consider the purpose of the different styles of beer. Some beers are rich and bold, and are intended to be “sipping beers” or perhaps beer to enjoy with hearty food or a sweet dessert. In this case, you would not want your beer to be ice cold, as you would want all of the rich, roasted flavours and aromas to come through. On the other hand, some beers are light and refreshing and are intended to be enjoyed in a sunny German biergarten in the summer, for example. You would definitely want these to be well chilled and easy to drink – a refreshing beverage that accompanies the social aspect of the biergarten experience, not one that requires contemplation. One such beer style is Kölsch, the style native to Cologne, Germany. Kölsch is a very light and refreshing blond beer – that appears in nearly every way to be a lager, but is in fact an ale (somewhat of a hybrid to be exact, but let’s not get caught up in the details – just don’t make the mistake of calling it a lager to a local in Cologne – trust me…). Although served cold, Kölsch is actually quite flavourful; the best examples of the style possessing a subtle but surprisingly complex malt character and a pleasant dose of crisp hoppiness. When beer is very cold, the flavour and aromatic compounds are greatly subdued So if you are one that prefers your beer ice cold, you are definitely not alone. Just be sure to stick to a beer style that is light and mild, not one with intense, robust flavours, as cold temperatures will only take away from those beers. There really is nothing wrong with appreciating a beer for its refreshing properties rather than its intense robustness, I suppose… as long as you do dedicate some time to appreciating the complex nature of flavourful beers as well. But that is for another day – I just want to sit on the patio with a cold one. 40
Alberta is fortunate enough to have access to a couple of true Kölsch beers from Cologne, Germany - my favourite being Früh, which is a fantastic example of the style. Light and crisp, and perfect for the patio, uh, I mean biergarten… (330mL bottle, $2-$3 CSPC +760978)
Another concoction common in German Biergartens in the summer are Radlers – a mixture of beer and lemonade or grapefruit juice. Radler means cyclist in German, and it is true that the drink is commonly enjoyed by cyclists due to its low alcohol level and very refreshing character. Definitely good cold! Austrian Brewery Stiegl makes a very tasty version with grapefruit juice. (500mL can, $4 CSPC +334052)
Village Triplet – Three Berry Kölsch Local Calgary brewery, Village, have also recently come out with their version of Kölsch – though choosing to take it in a slightly different direction. Their current seasonal beer, Village Triplet, is a Kölsch with a bit of a twist. It incorporates a fruity element with the addition of blackberries, blueberries, and saskatoon berries. It is a fresh and tasty take on the style that will be a big hit on local patios this summer. (6pk, $14 CSCP +772873)
Pabst Blue Ribbon I normally wouldn’t suggest a macro beer, but I have to admit that PBR can be delicious when ice cold after mowing the lawn. After all, it is a favourite among the well-bearded and waxed moustache types out there, so it must be good… right? (6pk cans, $11 CSPC + 184259)
Kirk Bodnar is a beer consultant for some of Calgary's better beer destinations. He is also a certified BJCP beer judge. @beersnsuch, facebook.com/beersnsuch
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and often sweet and sour together,” he explains. “And then they make umeshu, sometimes called Plum Wine, and I’ve had bad experiences. I just find it very cloying - it’s sweet and almost medicinal tasting.”
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“I cooked for a long, long, long, long, time, I’ve been a chef forever,” says Kevin Kent, “I fell into cooking as I needed a job, and one day I figured out that I actually liked it.” Starting life in Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, and growing up in Sakastoon, Kent moved to Calgary when he was in junior high. He started cooking at sixteen years old, worked in a YMCA kid’s camp, as a chef at River Café, and studied at SAIT, before leaving to travel the world with his archaeologist girlfriend. In 1999, they ran out of money in Turkey, and took a cheap flight to London. “I’m English on paper,” he says, “so the idea was to make a couple of quick bucks and continue our travels. Instead we ended up getting married and stayed for eight years. Oops! It was our three-month plan, but we weren’t very good at leaving.” Kent discovered Japanese knives while working as a sous chef at St. John Restaurant in London. “I tried 42
a Japanese knife when I was a chef and thought ‘holy moly that’s sharp’. There was a guy who was a knife maker and had a little tiny shop,” he says. ”I realised talking to him, that the big deal is that Japanese knives are made with harder steel, which means they’re going to stay sharp longer, and we can make them sharper.” He’d swapped all his German/Italian/ Swiss kit for Japanese knives in London but when he moved back to Canada, he couldn't find anything at the same standard. Enlisting the help of the London knife maker, he made contacts in Japan. “I thought that I’ll sell a few knives so I can afford knives, and I’ll open a restaurant - except now I’ve got five knife stores across Canada.” So what is the bottle that Kent is saving for a special occasion? There’s a bottle of 2007 Sake Hitosuji Junbaishu on the table. “When we opened the store that we’re currently in, our 760 sq. ft. megastore, Richard Harvey of Metrovino came by on Day 1 and brought me a bottle of umeshu. In Japan you eat ume every day. It’s usually umeboshi, which is preserved or pickled, fermented or in sweet syrup,
“He shows up and says ‘I’ve brought you this’. ‘Umeshu, oh nice’, I said,” Kent laughs, “and he said ‘No, no Kevin, I know most of them are terrible and this one’s lovely’ - and I have never opened it because I had never felt the occasion. I feel like I should now, I’ve done some research, and this is a really nice bottle. It's not made with Shōchū, it’s made with nihonshu, which we call sake - sake just means booze. This is rice with plums and a bit of sugar, fermented together. And this is apparently THE umeshu - if you are ever going to drink umeshu, THIS is the one.” And when will he open the bottle? “I feel embarrassed now that I have never opened it; I’ve been saving it for a special occasion!” says a sheepishlooking Kent. “Let’s see, I’ve had a child since this bottle arrived in my life, and I’ve opened five stores… maybe when I open a knife store in Kyoto - I know that sounds like a crazy idea, but on it’s on my list of things to do – I want to open Knifewear Kyoto. That would be an excellent time to open it; we could repatriate it.” And when might that be? Kent estimates it will be 2020, “It was on my ten-year list for a while, but it's on my five-year list now. I really have to open this, so now I really have to open a Kyoto store - but I really want to open it now!”
Straight Up, Over Ice Or With A Slice
Watch your tail. Enjoy [yellow tail] responsibly.
Summer with Calgary's freshest food & beverage magazine. Dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails.
Published on Jul 1, 2015
Summer with Calgary's freshest food & beverage magazine. Dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails.