Joe Nicastro, Ville Firenze
Chef’s Tip:
A cornerstone of the Italian restaurant community in Calgary, Ville Firenze continues the tradition established by Joe and Teressa Tudda 22 years ago, now managed by their daughter Pina and her chef husband Joe Nicastro.
“If you have a pasta machine, when you’re mixing the dough, you’ve got to make it as dry as you possibly can,” Nicastro says. “When I say dry, it’s not flour dry, you’ve got to have it stick together but if it’s too wet, you’re going to have problems when it’s coming out (of the pasta machine).”
Going back to his time at Stromboli Inn, Nicastro has cooked just about every type of Italian meal, whether it was the Stromboli pizza or dishes he’s created and become known for, like his signature Portobello mushroom dish. “As for pasta, I don’t measure anything,” Nicastro says. “As soon as I put my eggs in and my flour, I estimate and I know to put more eggs or more flour. As I look at the dough and I feel the texture, I know.”
“If we’re dealing with pasta dough, because there’s no yeast, it’s better to mix by machine. Under 5 minute cook time, and the water has got to be boiling.” Villa Firenze are at 610, 1 Avenue NE Calgary T2E 0B6 403-264-4297
“There is no comparison to anything you do if it’s home-made, he says. “You can’t beat it.”
Domenic Tudda, Pulcinella Domenic Tudda has pizza in his blood. His family name is synonymous with great Italian food in this city, but Domenic learned the traditional Napolitana style in Italy before opening Pulcinella seven years ago in the heart of Kensington. “I’ve been doing this since the day I was born,” Tudda said. “This used to be Stromboli’s Inn. That was my mom and dad’s, so pizza is all I’ve ever done. I’ve done every single type. We don’t mess around.” After earning his masters chef certification studying in Italy, Domenic returned to Calgary with a focus on using only the best ingredients to make the best pizza. He is the only one in Calgary certified by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana. “In Italy, there’s three types of pizza,” Tudda said. “There’s Romana, which is
what everybody does all over Italy, a thin-crust, crispy pizza. Then there’s the focacciastyle, which is a thick crust. Then there’s Napoletana; the hardest to do.” “The whole idea is there’s no fat in the dough,” Tudda added. “No olive oil, no nothing. The fast cook time is to keep it chewy; crisp but more chewy.”
Chef’s Tip: To make pizza dough: “In a kitchen mixer go about medium speed and never too fast,” Tudda says. “You’ll want a smooth texture. The water goes in the mixer first and the flour gets added in slowly. Use cold water, it’s very important,” he adds. “Always add salt and yeast at completely different times. I recommend adding the salt in with the water. Add the yeast halfway through the mix otherwise
you’ll kill it. I would use fresh yeast.” “Be patient with the rolling pin and if it’s sticking, always have flour nearby. Don’t go too thin on a home oven otherwise you’ll end up with a cracker.” You don’t need the cheese to be crispy to know when the pizza is done. “It’s not the cheese, the colour of the dough is going to tell you,” Tudda says. Pulcinella are at 1147 Kensington Crescent NW, Calgary 403-283-1166 Having worked in restaurants since he was 14, Cory translated his passion for food into his journalistic ambitions, not critiquing but meeting the people who make it and finding out what inspires them.