Culinaire #9.4 (October 2020)

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A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S O C TO B E R 2 02 0

Hundreds of Award Winning

Wines, Beers, Spirits and more!

Yorkshire Puddings | Harvest Veggies | Sweet Ways With Pumpkin

Celebrating thirty-eight alberta beverage awards since 2017

thanks and congratulations to all our remarkable suppliers


Volume 9 / No. 4 / October 2020

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs


Book Review


Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

News from Alberta’s culinary scene


Wine Lover’s Kitchen

Making the most of the harvest

16 Spice it up: Pumpkin Pie

Sweet ways with pumpkin for your Thanksgiving table

74 Etcetera…


What’s new?


Cheese For The Season Boozy Cheese by Candace Hiebert

14 Northern Girl Hops

…honouring Alberta’s landscape and heritage by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth


Pear-fect Fall Dishes A versatile way to add fruit to your diet by Natalie Findlay

By Step: Yorkshire ON THE COVER 20 Step Puddings This issue we’re celebrating the huge success of our 8th Alberta Beverage Awards. Many thanks to photographer Dong Kim for capturing the essence, and creating such a strong, dynamic, and eye-catching image! Thanks too to Lori at Village Craft Winemakers for helping us cap our custommade bottle caps!

…make your dinner guests grin by Renée Kohlman

22 The Results of the 2020

Alberta Beverage Awards

Our 8th year turned out to be our largest yet by Tom Firth

14 42 Alberta Beverage Awards Highlights - Gin

Still on a roll, the gin category is exploding

44 Alberta Beverage Awards

Highlights - India Pale Ales

Canada brews lead in this popular category

60 Alberta Beverage Awards Highlights - Mead

Alberta honey has created a strong mead industry

70 Alberta Beverage Awards Highlights - Lager

Alberta brewers take all the top spots!

71 Alberta Beverage Awards Highlights - White Blends

Winning wines from all over the world October 2020 | Culinaire 3



Thanks for your emails; to read this message from a participant in our Treasure Hunt, makes it all worthwhile:

Fortune favours the bold!


UR OCTOBER ISSUE is our biggest issue yet in all our eight years! And it’s at the most difficult time for publishers I have ever known, which makes it even more exciting. I feel it’s important to celebrate success and not be embarrassed by it. It’s not like it’s dropped out of the sky - I’ve always worked hard, but now, like so many small businesses in these crazy times, we’re having to be extra creative too. Tenacity, resilience and resourcefulness are still the order of the day… We are grateful for all our supporters: our readers who tell us which articles they love (and where we can improve), and our advertisers who help make everything possible, and who understand the value of Culinaire in staying abreast of the changes in food and drink, and telling the stories of the people involved. We didn’t even think it would be possible this year to run our 6th annual Culinary

Treasure Hunt or our 8th Alberta Beverage Awards, but I’ll always push to proceed, so we changed and adapted to keep everybody safe – and they were both huge successes! Sincere thanks to all the destinations and participants in the Treasure Hunt, and all the importers, brewers, wineries, and distilleries, who trusted us to produce our biggest Alberta Beverage Awards to date, with over 50 pages of results in this issue!

Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief

Linda, I want to sincerely thank you for the amazing day yesterday. As I mentioned on the way out it was truly “just what we needed”. I thought it was put together thoughtfully and safely, and most of all it was just a lot of fun. I cannot imagine the details and planning that went into it, but as a consumer of it, all your hard work paid was great fun! I appreciate you! Charlyn S


In our September issue, we mistakenly attributed the Wholly Veggie! products as Go Veggie. Please check out for their product line.

Getting back into a routine is easy when you’ve got a one-stop shop for school or office lunches! Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes

Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson Managing Editor Tom Firth Multimedia Editor Keane Straub Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 Sky Hansen 403-993-0531 Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Daniel Bontje, Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn, Candace Hiebert, Dong Kim Renée Kohlman, Karen Miller Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 @culinairemag @culinairemag For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online:

Our contributors Jason Dziver

A native Calgarian, Jason has been a photographer for 22+ years, and estimates he has taken over 20,000 bottle photos since he started covering beverage competitions. He also takes photos of architecture, food, people and products for local businesses and magazines. When he doesn’t have a camera in his hands, you can find Jason cycling, building bikes or messing about in his workshop. See more of his work at

Great Cocktails, Great Stories.

Keane Straub

Keane Straub is a freelance writer and photographer based out of Calgary, Alberta. With travels from Tofino, BC, to Charlottetown, PEI, Keane’s tried more than a little local flavour along the way. While their go-to is beer, they won’t say no to a good gin and tonic either. A storyteller at heart, Keane finds building LEGO therapeutic, and enjoys hiking, teaching photography, and reading about Mount Everest. Find them on instagram @keane_larsen, or their website

Tom Firth

Tom is a drinks writer, consultant, and judge who has been travelling the world and pulling corks for over twenty years. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. He has no qualms about tasting first thing in the morning, and his desk is covered in paper and bottles - somewhere under that, a corkscrew might be found. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Gift Fun, Flare and Flavour This Holiday Season!


Edmonton’s Art of Charcuterie and Meuwly’s Artisan Food Market have cleverly joined forces to offer charcuterie boxes, boards, and grazing tables with Meuwly’s artisan cured meats, cheeses, and other gourmet foods. Check them out at 1st Avenue NE in Bridgeland is the hotspot for restaurants this month! We’ve often queued for a chance to indulge in Shiki Menya’s 20-hour pork bone broth, so good news! They’ve moved across the road to bigger premises, and to ease the wait, they’re winterizing their patio too. As well as the much-loved ramens, they have new menu items like Waygu Beef Ramen with chicken broth! Dine in 11 am–3 pm, closed Sundays. And right next door is their new First Avenue Corner Store, with an open frontage where you can order Katsu Sandos (crustless hot Japanese sandwiches) of pork, chicken, wagyu, tamago (egg), as well as very moreish Karaage Cups of Japanese fried chicken with a choice of sauces. Katsu curry, poutine, and slushies are also yours to take away, or devour them on the patio, now open Friday-Sunday evenings too! Further along, Ke Charcoal Grill & Sushi have now opened a sister restaurant, Ikusa Izakaya, in the ex-Main Dish location. Ikusa is Japanese for battlefield, where people fought for their passion and honour, and these young Calgary fighters’ quality dishes come at a friendly price with ramen, BBQ, and yakitori specials too. Open every day from 11:30 am. Down the road, Made By Marcus and Lil Empire have hooked up to share space. From 11:30 am–10 pm, you can get your fix of good food not fast food (and we can attest to that!) Empire burgers, spicy Korean chicken with kimchi and gochujang BBQ sauce, the best Dirty Fries with three sauces and hotdog croutons, and more, all at very reasonable prices. Wash them down with Anne Ales Root Beer, beer on tap, and Proof canned cocktails. 6 Culinaire | October 2020

But save room for Marcus’ dessert as made-from-scratch scoops, sundaes and pints such as fave Lemon Curd Blueberry await, as well as monthly changing unique flavours that you can only get here. Look out for rainbow sherbet Milky Way and Secret Barrel Rum Raisin! Plant-based food is on the move, and following its success in Edmonton and St. Albert, fast-casual, Kb & Co have opened in Calgary next to Urban Fare, in Mount Royal. Clean, conscious eats for breakfast, soups, sandwiches, salads, snacks, and smoothies, are the order of the day to eat in or take out. Open 7 days. Edmonton has a bright and modern, new Eritrean restaurant, Weini, at 10514 111 Street. Try some new-to-you East African dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner! Open 7 days.

Also in Mount Royal is the new TEN Degrees Chocolate, where you can watch the whole process of winnowing and roasting the beans, and making chocolate – you can even take classes in this beautiful European-style, licensed café and events space; enjoy Chef Stephen Mawson’s chocolate-themed meal, as well as flatbreads, sandwiches, salads; and pastry chef, Paige Flohr’s treats and bon bons. Open 7 am-10 pm, kitchen closes at 3 pm. Mumbai Street Food’s vegan menu changes weekly, but you’re likely to find dosas with sambhar and coconut (do try them, you’ll thank us) and if you’re lucky, Medhu Vada – lentil donuts with sambhar and coconut chutney will be on the menu. It’s terrific value too! Sundays and Mondays at Calgary’s Dandelion Café in Ramsay, 11 am-5 pm. Alberta loves Italian food, and Edmonton welcomes Del Posto Italian Kitchen, at 10056 107 Street, serving up generous antipasti, pizzas, pastas, weekdays from 11 am, weekends from 4 pm. El Taco Loco is a new family-owned Mexican restaurant in Spruce Grove, proudly offering traditional dishes from Culiacán, the capital of Sinaloa. Open lunch and dinner, closed Mondays.






THREETHIEVESWINES.COM ©2020 Rebel Wine Co., St. Helena, CA 94574

October 2020 | Culinaire 7



ine and Cheese is such a classic pairing that it has its own parties and get-togethers in the lexicon.

While wine and cheese have been getting along together forever, sooner or later some innovative cheesemaker started

incorporating the two, and these cheeses are the descendants of that fantastic idea. Wine (or beer) IN our cheese? Yes please! Sartori Company Tennessee Whiskey BellaVitano, USA

Coombe Castle Red Lion Mustard And Ale Cheddar, UK

Crunchy flavour crystals married with the sharp bite of Tennessee whiskey transform this crumbly cheese into something truly amazing.

A chunk of this grainy mustard ale cheddar plus a salty fresh pretzel is all you need for a perfect Oktoberfest snack.

Oak Manor Port Wine Derby Cheese, England

Cahill’s Farm Cheese Ltd. Irish Porter Cheddar, Ireland

With its sweet flavour and startling deep red veins of port throughout, this cheese is a standout on any board.

The British have long known that dark beer and strong cheddar are a great combination, and this cheese brings the two together in one.

Somerdale International Champagne Cheddar, England

It’s sharp, creamy, and the champagne flavour is so present you can almost feel the bubbles on your tongue.

8 Culinaire | October 2020

Many thanks to Springbank Cheese who provided this beautiful cheeseboard for photography and sampling.

La Marquesa Cabra Al Vino, Spain

Its name literally means “The Drunken Goat”, and this milk-white goat cheese soaked in red wine earns its name with a creamy interior and a violet rind.

Candace is passionate about food— eating it, making it, and writing about it—and is up to try any and all new culinary experiences, especially with friends.


Wine Lover’s Kitchen By Fiona Beckett Ryland Peters & Small 2017 $35


eckett is a wine columnist for The Guardian in the U.K. and has experience pairing food with wine, so it seems likely using wine in cooking comes naturally. She encourages experimentation with wine in all types of dishes, beyond the classic “Coq au vin” (p.90), where a whole bottle is called for. She sure gives you a lot of inspiration for using up those leftover bits of wine (what?). Much in the way wine can elevate the flavours in a dish, the photographs are striking and lift the dishes off the pages. Needless to say there are wine recommendations for each dish and tips for cooking with wine. There are recipes for all courses, all seasons, and from many different cultural roots. Not all are slow braised, “Languedoc beef stew with red wine, herbs and olives”

(p.78), many are quick and easy, and some very intriguing. The “Red wine spaghetti with olives and anchovies” recipe on p.281 actually has you cooking the pasta in red wine. Although a lot of the recipes are meat-based, there is potential for vegetables and basic sauces, jams, and relishes (so many possibilities for the “Plum and Pinot jam” on p. 132). It is certainly not often you see a muffin recipe with wine, but the “Red wine, blue cheese, and pecan muffins” on p. 156, will certainly up your soup-for-lunch game. The sweets section is filled with mostly typical wine infused desserts, but why not add wine to fruit crumble (“Spiced plum, red wine, and amaretti crumble” on p. 155)? Beckett claims wine is the magic ingredient, and indeed her recipes make it so. Even recipes not needing wine as

a fundamental ingredient can benefit from that added boost of flavour. You can always start using wine by deglazing a pan to soak up the flavourful bits, and go on to opening up a bottle of Champagne just so you can make a personal favourite, the “Wild mushroom and champagne risotto” (p. 40). Whatever you try, no excuses now for leftover bits of wine! Karen is a lawyer by trade, who claims to have been on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon sooner than most, and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS



ne of the best ways to take in the sights, the smells, and the tastes at this time of year is to head to local farmers markets. Alberta farmers grow amazing produce from blue oyster mushrooms, to bok choy, to sea buckthorn, and everything in between. And, as more local restaurants are using locally sourced ingredients, we Albertans have the advantage of being able to discover new things with every meal, while supporting local restaurants and farmers. It’s a great feeling, especially at such a bountiful time of year. Even though we’re maybe not dining out as much these days, we can still find ways to make new discoveries in our kitchens at home. This month we talked to four Alberta chefs about sourcing ingredients right here in Alberta, namely veggies (and fruit!), and how to incorporate them into a main dish. Say goodbye to veggies at the side of the plate; these greens – and bright oranges, and vibrant reds, and mellow yellows – are the main attraction.

While the menu can change depending on the availability of an ingredient, or the kitchen staff needing to shake things up, Bar Von der Fels, in Calgary, has one goal according to Chef Douglas King. “We want our guests to leave the restaurant feeling like they’ve had an experience that can’t be recreated at home.” The constant on the menu is the Hasselback Potatoes, Fogo Island Crab, 10 Culinaire | October 2020

and Brown Butter, combining crispy potatoes, and an addictive brown butter sauce. When Fogo Island Fishery in Newfoundland stepped in and added the snow crab, King says it “took the dish to another level.” Now, we can’t all get Fogo Island crab, but we can still find plenty of local goodies to incorporate into our home cooking. King is big on research, and points out that every farmer’s market in Alberta has an updated list of vendors on their websites. And, most importantly, talk to the vendors about their farming practices and what they specialize in. “Once you’ve found a farm that has beautiful baby leeks or cauliflower, hit the internet and become inspired with techniques and recipe ideas,” he suggests. It was King’s discovery of the melons from Mans Organics – based in Coaldale, Alberta, and available at Blush Lane Organics in the Calgary Farmer’s Market – that inspired this refreshing take on cantaloupe with a chilled spritz of Oolong tea served at the start of a meal. Who says fruit is just for smoothies?

Mans Organic Cantaloupe with Oolong and Lime Serves 4-6

1 medium-sized cantaloupe 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs (100 mL) water 1 Tbs sugar 1 stalk lemongrass, chopped, white part only 1 Kefir lime leaf or the zest of one lime 1 lime, juiced 1 bag Oolong tea 1 cup (250 mL) water Crushed ice 1. Using a serrated knife, remove the skin from the cantaloupe and portion into wedges, removing seeds and membrane. 2. Place water, sugar, lemongrass, and lime leaf or zest into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add lime juice. Chill. 3. Brew one serving of Oolong tea and chill. 4. Add lime mixture to tea and brush over melon slices. Serve on a bed of crushed ice.

Newly opened in April 2020, Edmonton’s Rosewood Foods aims to bring comfort and nostalgia to the downtown community. As Chef Noah Gado explains, the menu draws inspiration from several cultural influences and global experiences. His time spent working and living in Melbourne exposed him to a vast array of cultural cuisines and atypical ingredients. This led to Gado developing what he calls an informal style of cooking, allowing him to “combine seasonal ingredients with past experiences to create a finished dish.” Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients are the highlights of Rosewood’s menu, Gado explains, and using them supports local Alberta farms. “I find the best way to discover good products and to learn about the producers is by being curious. If something catches my eye, I start a dialogue with the vendor about what they suggest is best for its application or what may be available in the coming weeks.” Gado describes Rosewood’s Verde Rice Bowl as a market-driven, westcoast inspired dish. It’s completely versatile, which allows you to incorporate seasonal vegetables and herbs from your favourite vendor market – try Gull Valley Greenhouse at Edmonton’s Callingwood Farmers’s Market – or your own backyard garden. And, because it’s adaptable, it can be served for any meal of the day, any day of the week.

Rosewood Verde Bowl Serves 4-6

3 cups medium grain rice, cooked according to package instructions 3 Tbs (45 mL) neutral oil

Verde sauce

2 cups mixed herbs, being mindful of each herb’s strength, eg. parsley, oregano, dill, mint, chives, scallion, basil, or cilantro ½ cup (120 mL) red wine vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) local maple syrup or local honey 2 cloves of garlic 1 Tbs salt, add more to taste ½ cup (120 mL) neutral oil like canola ½ cup (120 mL) olive oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) lemon juice to taste To taste salt


Choose your favourite vegetables from the farmers market and cut to bite-sized pieces. Rosewood use cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, pickled carrots, radish and house made chili oil. Feel free to top it with an egg, a nice local sausage or bacon. 1. Rinse the rice. Using a pot or a rice

cooker, cook the rice according to package instructions until just done, let cool. 2. Chop herbs into rough pieces. Place them in a blender with the vinegar, maple syrup/honey, garlic and salt. Start to blend while pouring in oil at a slow stream. Once smooth, check for balance of sweetness, saltiness, and acidity to your preference. 3. Heat a non-stick frying pan on medium heat. Add oil and then 1-2 cups of the cooked rice, depending on the size of the pan (it’s important not to crowd the pan). Flatten the rice with a spatula and fry without stirring until golden brown. Warm the rice through then put into a bowl. Repeat this method for the remainder of rice. 4. Add verde sauce ¼ cup (60 mL) at a time proportionate to the amount of rice. Continue tasting and mixing. The rice should be a deep green colour but not too loose or wet. Finish by seasoning with lemon juice and salt to your taste. It should be very vibrant and strongly seasoned to contrast with the freshness of your toppings. 5. Place the rice in the bottom of a platter or bowl, then arrange your toppings on top and serve. October 2020 | Culinaire 11

For Chef Alex Hamilton, the Allium Restaurant in Calgary’s Beltline is firstly a great restaurant serving well thoughtout food and cocktails, and vegetarian restaurant second. “We want (guests) to know that this place will satisfy most diners whether vegan, vegetarian or omnivore,” he says. Dishes such as Bok Choy Caesar Salad are a customer fave, swapping classic romaine for refreshing bok choy from The Basil Ranch in Calgary. The Pickled Fried Mushrooms are just that: plump, local mushrooms are pickled, then fried, and served with miso gravy, nasturtium and chili oil. As for going local in your own kitchens, Hamilton says research is key, and urges people to be curious, and learn about the local food supply chain. He says oftentimes some of the best native produce is overlooked because something else is mainstream and ‘hyped up’ – and more often than not, it isn’t local. “The more educated the public is, the more diverse the produce will be.” Hamilton also insists that the in-home kitchen is the perfect place to experiment. “Nobody is paying money so there is room to make errors, and errors lead to new discoveries,” he says. If you’re feeling adventurous, and you’re itching to fire up the grill for one last go this season, try Hamilton’s recipe for barbecued lion’s mane mushrooms, which uses this unique and aptly named fungi, available at Alberta’s Red Fox Fungi in cSpace Farmers Market in Marda Loop. 12 Culinaire | October 2020

BBQ Lion’s Mane Mushroom with Charred Brassica Slaw Serves 4

3 large lion’s mane mushrooms 2 Tbs (30 mL) neutral oil 2 Tbs steak spice ½ cup (120 mL) BBQ sauce To taste salt and pepper


½ head of broccoli, cut in half ½ head romanesco, cut in half 4 radishes, sliced thinly 1 kohlrabi, peeled and cut into small julienned sticks 2 heads baby or Shanghai bok choy 3 green onions, thinly sliced 2 Tbs (30 mL) cold pressed canola oil To taste salt and pepper


3 Tbs (45 mL) apple cider vinegar 2 Tbs chopped dill 2 Tbs chopped Italian parsley 2 Tbs (30 mL) brassica mustard 1 Tbs garlic powder To taste salt and pepper

1. Turn on BBQ and set 3 burners to medium-high and one to very low heat. 2. Trim the lion’s mane of any hard and woody bits from the bottom (reserve for a veggie broth). 3. Trim any stems from the broccoli and romanesco, peel the kohlrabi of its tough skin and any woody parts, cut bok choy in half. 4. Brush mushrooms with oil and season liberally with salt and steak spice, allow to marinate for 30 minutes. 5. Grill mushrooms on medium-high heat part of the grill on all sides and get grill marks, place grilled mushrooms on low side and brush liberally with BBQ sauce. 6. Brush broccoli, romanesco and bok choy with oil and season with salt and pepper. 7. Char broccoli, romanesco and bok choy well, turn off BBQ and allow veggies to cool, keep mushrooms warm. 8. Thinly slice charred vegetables. 9. Combine dressing ingredients, pour over charred vegetables and mix well. 10. Serve family style or place some slaw down on the plate, top with warm BBQ mushrooms, spoon on a little more BBQ sauce and enjoy.

When Kasim Kasim, owner and operator of Padmanadi Restaurant in Edmonton, moved his family from Indonesia to Canada in 2002, his goal was to recreate the successful restaurant he and his family had run in Jakarta. During the last 18 years, Padmanadi has established itself as one of the best eateries for vegans, vegetarians, and omnivores seeking casual fine dining with Indonesian, Indian, Chinese, and Thai cuisine. “We want everyone to come enjoy themselves at our table and feel happy. We don’t try to get customers, we try to make friends,” explains Kasim. Portraits of their regular customers adorn the walls of their downtown location. Dishes like Singapore Noodles are a favourite in Kasim’s family, inspired by their former home in South East Asia. With farmers markets readily available in Edmonton, it’s easy to find the fresh ingredients used in the dish such as bok choy and carrots. Try Peas on Earth in the Old Strathcona Farmers Market for both domestic and Asian varieties of veggies, and find what inspires you. Serving solely plant-based meals means that when it comes to seeking ingredients, there’s a lot to consider. Kasim emphasizes the importance of freshness, not just for taste, but for presentation, too. You might not always be able to find the best of what you need, but for Kasim, “It’s better to make something different that is beautiful.” There’s also a danger of getting into a rut, and sticking to what you’re familiar with. “People get used to eating the same fruits and vegetables, but maybe try and find one new thing every time you go shopping,” says Kasim. “Lots of items can be substituted into

the food you are already making and will change the dish.” Lastly, Kasim says, “Have fun and don’t be scared! The best way to learn what to do is to slowly learn what not to do!”

Singapore Noodles Serves 2-4

250 g package dried vermicelli noodles Cold water 1 cup bok choy, cut lengthwise, bottom inch trimmed 1 cup carrots, cut into medallions


2 tsp (10 mL) tamari sauce 2 tsp (10 mL) sesame oil 1 tsp sugar 2 Tbs curry powder 1 tsp salt 2 Tbs (30 mL) sambal oelek

250 g block medium-firm tofu, cut into 2 cm cubes Handful of bean sprouts 1. Pre-soak vermicelli noodles in cold water for about 20 minutes. Drain, and set aside. 2. Blanch soaked vermicelli, bok choy, and carrots, in boiling water for 45 seconds. 3. Heat wok on medium heat, add sauce ingredients and stir to combine. Add blanched vermicelli and vegetables. Mix to incorporate sauce. 4. Add tofu and bean sprouts and heat through before serving.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. October 2020 | Culinaire 13



f there’s one food and beverage trend that’s been more pervasive than any other over the last decade, it’s the drive to eat and drink local. We want local meat, local vegetables, local grains and, more than anything, local beer and spirits. But while most local beer drinkers can recognize a brewery label from Calgary, Edmonton, Medicine Hat, or some of the other Alberta communities that boast breweries, we don’t often ask where the ingredients come from. But that doesn’t mean that hyperlocalists aren’t interested in brewing uniquely Albertan beers. We certainly have

14 Culinaire | October 2020

plenty of grain in these parts, but Alberta has never been a hotbed for hops. There are a few more commercial Canadian hops growers in Ontario and British Columbia, but the American Pacific Northwest is the biggest North American go-to when it comes to hop suppliers. The women behind Northern Girls Hops want to change that — and they want to do it their own way. Sisters Catherine Smith and Karin Smith Fargey began production of their Northern Girls Hops in 2012. Their hop yard is on their mixed-use Windhover Farm, west of Edmonton, which also includes a cider

orchard. The land was once owned by the sisters’ grandparents, and the pair reacquired it about 15 years ago, “It’s really important to us to honour the landscape and its heritage,” Karin says. “There’s tremendous heritage held in that land and we’ve always wanted to uphold that. That really is the value that sits in small family farms across Alberta. We’re trying to maintain that connection with the land, and the connection to family and community. While being innovative as well.” As Alberta’s first commercial hop yard, Northern Girls made some noise

for themselves via collaborations with breweries like Big Rock, Alley Kat, Blind Enthusiasm, and Paddy’s. The thing about growing local is that it’s nice for a brewery to be able to brag that its beer is made from local grains, local water, and local hops. But if those local ingredients don’t somehow reflect a sense of place, it’s all essentially window dressing. Catherine and Karin spent their first few years of hop production in an experimental phase: they planted about 12 varieties of hops over the years to decide which would work with Alberta’s climate and how the hops’ flavours would react to local conditions, expressing a sense of terroir, much like a grape varietal would in wine. A cask trial of Northern Girls’ Golding hops (which they’ve since dubbed “Alberta Golding”) for example, revealed flavours of mango that an otherwise identical batch of beer brewed with Golding hops from the U.K. didn’t carry. Building on the unique characteristics of their most successful hops, Northern Girls decided that they wanted to consistently give their customers a taste of Alberta and, being the stewards of the land that they are, also wanted to give their soil a rest. They let their hop yard go to fallow and dug out their plants to replant new crops. Which means you won’t find their hops in this year’s beers, but in the long term, they’ll be developing a uniquely Albertan product that won’t simply replicate the flavour of West Coast hops. Northern Girls expect to be able to collaborate with local breweries to start doing small batches of beer with

While Catherine admits that Albertan-grown hops are still a “rare bird,” while she and Karin work to get their hops growing again, they have been

“It’s really important to us to honour the landscape and its heritage” their new hops in 2021, with a full crop of commercially available Alberta-specific hops ready for 2022. “Some hop varieties are known to be more terroir sensitive than others,” Catherine says. “Once we established that, yes, we can pull off a crop with yields comparable to the major production areas of growing hops in North America, our focus turned to the unique aromas of hops in Alberta.”

directing interested breweries to other small hop growers via the Alberta Hop Producers Association. Both sisters say that there is a greater demand for hops than Alberta growers would ever be able to meet (and that’s even without many chefs — save for Christine Sandford at Edmonton’s Biera — yet exploring the possibility of cooking with hop shoots). But for now, Northern Girls and Windhover Farms

are excited to look forward to a product that reflects their philosophy as farmers, and allows them to engage in meaningful collaboration with local beer makers. “We know the land and we are experimenters, as many farmers are,” Karin says. “We’re also creative and when you are grounded in knowledge of your land, it gives you the breadth of freedom to be able to expand it. We were looking for a sustainable, value-added product that we could crop throughout the year and that we were interested in. Hops have a tremendous, beautiful rich history.” Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. October 2020 | Culinaire 15

Spice it Up

Pumpkin Pie

Pumpkin Pie Cheesecake


ove it or hate it, pumpkin pie is an autumn staple. It’s also the origin of the everpopular “pumpkin spice” flavouring that has amassed a cult following at the not-to-be-named coffee shop where said lattés are on offer. However, pumpkin spice need not be limited to pie or lattés, this blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, and cloves can be spiced up in its own right! Try adding these sweet derivatives to your Thanksgiving table. 1. Pumpkin Pie Cheesecake

Any dessert that combines two treats in one is a force to be reckoned with and is bound to satisfy lovers of pie and cheesecake alike. All you have to do is mix pumpkin puree and a pumpkin spice blend into a 16 Culinaire | October 2020


traditional cheesecake base and bake until set (like the recipe for Pumpkin Crème Brulée Tarts described below). Garnish with candied ginger or brulée the top with sugar for an extra fancy touch.

2. Pumpkin Pie Milkshake Chilled desserts don’t have to be reserved for summer. There are a couple of different ways you can go about making a milkshake of this nature. Should you have leftover pumpkin pie kicking around, crumble it in with a bit of vanilla ice cream and blend with a splash of milk until it reaches the desired consistency. Alternately, pumpkin puree can be added directly to the ice cream and milk, sweetening with maple syrup as needed (don’t forget a dash of pumpkin spice in there as well).

3. Pumpkin Roulade

For a dessert that is much easier to make than it looks, try whipping up a cake roulade, or Swiss roll. The pumpkin cake itself gets baked on a sheet tray, and because of its thinness takes hardly any time at all to cook up. Roll it up with sweetened whipped cream, dust with powdered sugar, and serve as a show-stopping end to a decadent Thanksgiving meal.

4. Pumpkin Pie Bars Think date squares, but with a pumpkin filling. This snackable version of pumpkin pie might be even tastier than the real thing. Start with a sablé crust: a simple mix of flour, sugar, and butter, which can be pressed into a lined baking tin. The middle layer is the pumpkin puree itself, sweetened with the sugar

Pumpkin Roulade

of your choice and an egg to help it set. Finally, top with an oat-laden streusel for some much-needed crunch and bake until golden brown. Perfect for breakfast, dessert, or a mid-afternoon snack. 5. Pumpkin Filled Donuts If you’re looking for an ambitious kitchen project ahead of a Thanksgiving brunch, try adding pumpkin filled donuts to the menu. Take your favourite beignet or brioche dough, fry it up, and allow it to cool completely. Add pumpkin purée to pastry cream or custard, essentially a milk pudding thickened with cornstarch and eggs, and load this filling into your now room-temperature donuts. Ultimately, it’s the most acceptable way to eat pumpkin pie for breakfast.

Pumpkin Shake

Pumpkin Crème Brulée Tarts Makes 8 individual tarts


½ cup + 2 Tbs softened butter ½ cup + 2 Tbs icing sugar 1 egg yolk ½ tsp vanilla 1¾ cups pastry flour This dough is just like making shortbread cookies. 1. Sift the icing sugar into the butter and cream them together until smooth. Add the egg yolk and vanilla, mixing until combined. Finally, sift in the flour. 2. Once it is fully incorporated, wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it (shape it into a log, it will be easier to slice and roll later). It needs a good hour or so to chill, otherwise it will be too soft to work with. 3. After the dough has firmed up, you can slice it into 8 portions and roll each out to between 3 - 6 mm thick. Press the dough into each tart shell and prick the bottoms with a fork. Chill for 10 to 15 minutes in the freezer. Bake at 325º F for about 15-18 minutes. Cool completely prior to filling.

Pumpkin Crème Brulée Tarts


250 g cream cheese, softened 1 cup brown sugar 7 egg yolks 1 cup (250 mL) pumpkin puree (canned is ideal because it has less moisture than if you make your own) ¼ tsp cinnamon 2 Tbs (30 mL) Cognac, optional 1. Blend everything using a hand mixer or food processor until smooth. Fill the cooled tart shells and bake at 325º F for 18-20 minutes or until the filling has

set. Cool before removing the tartlets from the molds. Refrigerate if not serving immediately. 2. Before serving, sprinkle the tops with sugar and brulée with a blowtorch until the sugar has melted and turned a deep, golden brown.

Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Follow Mallory @cuzilikechoclat, and check out her blog, October 2020 | Culinaire 17


Pear Crostini


he thermometer has dipped, and it’s time to add warming foods to our days as we head into the winter months. Pears are a versatile way to add a traditional fall fruit to your diet that is both nutrient-dense and high in fibre. There are a number of different kinds of pear to choose from. The most common at your grocery store or farmers market are Anjou, Bartlett and Bosc. Bartlett are the sweetest and softest when ripe. Anjou are medium sweet but still soft, and Bosc are the least sweet and firmer than the other two. While they are fairly interchangeable, you might find a sweeter pear more suitable to certain dishes and a firmer, less sweet pear better fitting for others. Pears are adaptable to both sweet and savoury flavours as these recipes will attest.

18 Culinaire | October 2020

Pear Crostini Makes 8

¼ cup (60 mL) ice wine ¼ cup (60 g) golden raisins 6 slices sourdough baguette Drizzle olive oil 1 ripe pear ¾ cup (150 g) ricotta Pinch sea salt Sprinkle fresh cracked black pepper Drizzle honey 1. Add ice wine and raisins to a small pot and simmer over low heat until the majority of the liquid has absorbed into raisins, approximately 5 - 7 minutes. Remove from heat. Set oven to broil. 2. Slice baguette into 6 x 1 cm slices. Drizzle with olive oil on both sides. Place on a baking sheet and in the oven and toast until browned. Flip bread and brown

on the other side. Remove from oven. 3. Core pear and slice into thin strips. 4. For each baguette slice, top with 1 Tbs (15 mL) ricotta, sprinkle with sea salt, top with slices of pear, raisins, and freshly cracked black pepper. Drizzle with honey if desired. This is great for an appetizer for parties, as well as the filling in a toasted sandwich for an interesting switch-up in your lunch box.

Roasted Pear Salad Serves 6 as a side dish

Mustard Thyme Salad Dressing Makes ½ cup (120 mL)

2 small cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tsp fresh thyme, finely chopped 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) honey pinch salt & pepper ½ lemon, zested ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil

Roastted Pear Salad

Combine the garlic, thyme and the rest of the ingredients in a small glass jar, shake until blended. Can be stored in the fridge 3 - 5 days.


3 slices bacon 2 pears, sliced Drizzle honey Pinch salt 6 cups mixed greens 1/3 cup gorgonzola ½ cup blackberries (or pomegranate or raspberries) ¼ cup walnuts 1. Preheat oven to 375º F. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Add 3 slices bacon plus the slices of pear. Drizzle pear with honey and sprinkle with sea salt. Bake 15 - 20 minutes or until bacon and pears are browned. 3. Cut bacon into cubes. 4. Add greens to a large serving plate or bowl. Top with pear slices, bacon, gorgonzola, blackberries and walnuts. Drizzle with the mustard thyme dressing.

Oven-Baked Pear Crisp

Oven-Baked Pear Crisp and Pear Compote

1. Preheat oven to 375º F. 2. Cut pears in half and remove core. Place on a lined baking sheet or low-sided baking dish. 3. In a small bowl combine: oats, almond flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, salt, cold cubed butter, almonds and pecans. Use fingers to massage butter into pea size pieces. 4. Top pears with oat mixture. Bake for 25 - 30 minutes. Remove from oven. Can be served warm or room temperature, by itself, with ice cream or whipping cream for a lovely dessert or with a dollop of Greek yogurt for breakfast.


This crisp can be baked separately or on top of the pears. If baking separately, you can store for 5 days. This crisp could also be added to the pear compote.

Makes 4

Pear Compote

2 pears ½ cup rolled oats ½ cup almond flour ½ cup brown sugar 1 tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp allspice 5 grates nutmeg Pinch salt ½ cup cold butter ½ cup slivered almonds ½ cup pecans

1 cup prunes 1/3 cup (75 mL) Maker’s Mark bourbon (or more water or other alcohol) 4 pears 1 bay leaf 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 1 tsp cinnamon Pinch ground clove 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract ¼ cup (60 mL) maple syrup

Serves 4

1. Cut each prune into quarters. 2. In a small bowl add prunes and bourbon or water if not using alcohol. Simmer over low heat until the liquid has absorbed into the prunes. 3. Core pears and cut into medium size cubes. Add to a medium size pot along with the bay leaf, ginger, cinnamon, and clove. Cook over medium low heat approximately 10 minutes. Remove from heat. 4. Add the vanilla extract, maple syrup and the prunes. Gently stir together. Let cool. Can be stored for 5 days in the fridge.


Can be enjoyed both warm and cold any time of day.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes. October 2020 | Culinaire 19

Step By Step:



here’s nothing like a grand meal of roast beef with all of the trimmings to set the stage for winter feasting. Ham and turkey tend to grab the spotlight at this time of year, but if you’re keen to switch things up, I highly recommend a flavourful beef roast, if only because it’s an excuse to make Yorkshire pudding. You can decide how big you want to go when it comes to the beef. A prime rib roast is a thing of beauty, with a mighty fine price tag to match. Your family will be most impressed when they find out this is on the menu. I’m more of a budget-minded cook and a sirloin tip roast cooked low and slow in the crockpot is not only delicious and tender, but the meat literally falls apart when transferred to a platter. Sure, there will be mashed potatoes and side dishes of seasonal vegetables, but what’s really going to make your dinner guest grin is the Yorkshire puddings, laced with a savoury gravy. The exact origins of Yorkshire pudding are unknown, though there’s a general

20 Culinaire | October 2020

consensus that it is a dish associated with the North of England. Printed recipes for Yorkshire pudding go back as far as the mid-18th century, but the dish likely existed in kitchens long before that. The prefix “Yorkshire” was first used within a publication by Hannah Glasse in 1747, in “The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Simple”. This distinguished the light and crispy character of the batter puddings made in this region from batter puddings created in other parts of England. Yorkshire pudding is super simple in both its ingredients and process: Mix together eggs, milk and flour with a pinch of salt to form a batter (“as for pancakes,” according to the 1937 cookbook The Whole Duty of a Woman), then pour the batter in a hot pan with the drippings from a roast. Originally, that roast was mutton; these days, it’s more likely beef. Yorkshire puddings were traditionally cooked in large pans then cut into squares to be served, though most recipes today call for muffin tins or popover pans. While they look most impressive, especially when pulled from the hot oven

and deflation has yet to set in, Yorkshire puddings are also very easy to make. But, there are a couple of tricks for ensuring lofty, light and airy puddings with crispy edges. First off, plan ahead if you can. The longer the batter rests, the taller the Yorkies will be. However, if you only have 30 minutes to rest the batter, they will still turn out great. Once the batter is rested, be certain to pour it into screaming hot fat. You need to see and hear a good sizzle as the batter hits the hot beef drippings or canola oil. I like to place the muffin tin on top of a rimmed baking sheet so it can catch any oil spills in the oven, should they occur. Be sure to not overfill the cups. If you pour too much batter into each compartment, the pudding will begin to rise, but will then collapse because it is too heavy. To avoid this, only fill each cup about 2/3 full. Bake until the puddings have risen quite a lot, are deeply golden brown, and crispy to the touch. To enjoy the Yorkshire puddings fully and completely, serve them immediately. Don’t forget the gravy.

Yorkshire Pudding

Makes 12 Yorkshire puddings 4 large eggs 1 cup (250 mL) whole milk 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tsp salt ½ cup (125 mL) canola oil or beef drippings 1. In a large bowl, beat the eggs, then whisk in the milk. Gradually whisk

in the flour. Add the salt and whisk the batter until it’s very smooth. Set aside at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, but ideally for at least one hour. Alternatively, the batter can be poured into an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Give the batter a stir and let it sit at room temperature for 45 minutes before proceeding with the recipe. 2. Place a rack in the centre of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425º F. Place a

standard 12-cup muffin tin on a rimmed baking sheet so it can catch any oil should it run out of the muffin cups. 3. Divide the fat between the cups, about 2 tsp each. Place the baking sheet and muffin tin in the oven for about 9-10 minutes so the oil can get smoking hot. 4. While the oil is heating, pour the Yorkshire batter into a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or other vessel that will pour easily. When the oil is smoking hot, carefully remove the baking sheet/muffin tin from the oven and quickly pour the Yorkshire batter into each muffin cup, filling each about 2/3 full. Immediately return to the oven. 5. Bake until the puddings have quadrupled in volume, are deep golden brown all over, crisp to the touch, and sound hollow when tapped. This takes about 22-25 minutes. Serve them immediately. And don’t forget the gravy! Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.

Haskap Melomel (Mead) 12% alc, connect code 796939

HasRas Wine (oak aged) 12.5% alc, order direct

All handcrafted in the foothills of NW Alberta

The Results of the 2020


22 Culinaire | October 2020


t the beginning of this year I was expected to judge five different beverage competitions, yet by early March all those plans were cancelled, postponed, or worse – some were in danger of folding. However, a significant part of my year is planning and running the Alberta Beverage Awards, which is well underway behind the scenes in February. So, what were we to do? Would COVID miraculously go away? Or would businesses be shuttered for months to come? We held off making our decision until the end of May, eventually finding that in our personal lockdowns, folks still enjoy having a glass or two. Liquor retailers have been busy these past months, distillers and brewers too, while restaurants have had a tough go of things. We kicked off the competition for entries in June, and had a very busy few weeks confirming our judges, confirming our stewards, the venue, connecting with importers, producers, and regulatory bodies - it takes a lot of hard work to bring you these results. Our 8th year turned out to be our largest yet. Just shy of 850 entries were sipped, swirled, savoured, and assessed by our judges over three days at Calgary’s Carriage House Inn. We are already the largest blind competition for Alberta-made liquor products, but we had a renewed interest from other Canadian products and international bottles, which was surprising, but in our competitive liquor market, people appreciate a little help to find the best products, or at least recommendations of something they’d like. In each category is a “Best in Class”, which is the top performer in its category, followed by “Judges’ Selection” which are the other high performing wines in the category. In several categories, there is also a “Top Value” - a Judges’ Selection wine that has been identified by the Culinaire editors as providing excellent value as well.

FINDING THE WINNERS: As well as appearing in our October 2020 results issue, our results appear in full online on our website at We are pleased to share that a number of liquor stores, wine merchants, and restaurants are featuring 2020 Alberta Beverage Awards winners this fall including: Co-op Wine Spirits Beer Co-op liquor stores are featuring award winners in the Cooler category; Spirits winners, such as Tequila, Gin, Vodka, and Rum; and both white and red wines.

Each winner has an approximate retail price - every retailer is different, so we’ve included a range in many cases. Though many Alberta-based products might only be available at the cellar door, I’d suggest trying to find them on the shelf, or contacting them directly – spending your dollars locally makes a tremendous impact in our communities. Each product also has a “CSPC” number, which can be used to help you find it at your local retailer or at Some products also have a symbol after them to identify products that not only did well this 2018 year, but also in previous years, indicating that this product is consistently good, year after year. The success of our Awards is a team effort, and we thank our partners: the Carriage House Inn including Lino Savino and Roxane Carlson, The Import Vintners & Spirits Association, and Liquor Connect. Special thanks go to Len Steinberg, who helps manage the back room, but whose insight and experience is crucial; our judges; and our wine stewards: Mairi, Danielle, Darin, Lana, Patrick, Paul, Grant, and Chelsea. It is unbelievable what they can accomplish. And finally, a big thank you to Jason Dziver, our talented photographer responsible for shooting all the product entries.

The Guild The Guild are listing three winning Red Single Varieties wines and three winning Sauvignon Blanc wines on their Cellar Select wine list. They’re half price on Tuesdays and Wednesdays! Vine Styles Check out Vine Styles for winning Herbal Liqueurs, Alcohol-Free winners, Coolers, and Tempranillo and blends award winners. Bricks Wine Company A selection of award winners from the Gin category, Ready to Drink Cocktails, Prosecco, Pinot Noir, and Asian libations are featured at Bricks, as well as some select beers. Oak & Vine Oak & Vine are featuring a range of award winning beers, ciders, wines, spirits, and Ready to Drink products. Highlander Wine & Spirits A variety of award winning products are featured at Highlander’s stores, check with them for details. Willow Park Wines & Spirits A number of award winning beers and ciders, as well as wines and spirits, are featured at Willow Park Wines & Spirits.

October 2020 | Culinaire 23

Cabernet Sauvignon


Cabernet sauvignon exemplifies power and elegance by allowing the fruit concentration, acidity, tannin and level of alcohol to work together now and for the next several years. This is certainly one of the most talked about grape varietals out there, especially when we are thinking about food and wine pairings. Our top wines in this category have a creative balance that drinks beautifully now and then will develop and soften in the coming years. It’s time to warm up with a cabernet sauvignon. Cam Pinkney

Chateau Ste Michelle 2016 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, United States $22-25 CSPC 232793



Peter Lehmann 2018 The Barossan Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa, Australia $22-25 CSPC 830302

Three Thieves 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon California, United States $17-20 CSPC 774095

Miro Cellars 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon California, United States Finca Decero 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina $23-25 CSPC 119578

Double Canyon 2016 Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Haven Hills, United States $35-38 CSPC 767555

Escorihuela 1884 2018 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina


$19-21 CSPC 740170

Angus the Bull 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Central Victoria, Australia $22-25 CSPC 713074 24 Culinaire | October 2020

$40-45 CSPC 801838

Edge 2017 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon California, United States $42-45 CSPC 80374

October 2020 | Culinaire 25

Red Blends


A wine maker might choose to blend grapes together to bring natural balance to structure and flavour, and if it’s done well, it’s a great way to enhance complexity too. No surprise Spain and Portugal took the top spots here, with a history of intermixed plantings, they’re masters of the blend. The thing to celebrate in this category is diversity – so many different grapes, so many different styles, so many wines to enjoy! Jenny Book

Albert Bichot 2018 Coteaux Bourguignon Burgundy, France $18-22 CSPC 799083

BEST IN CLASS (TIE) Emotivo 2018 Gran Rosso Veneto, Italy $18-22 CSPC 784012

2017 - 2019

Parras Wines 2018 Castelo do Sulco Reserva Portugal $15-17 CSPC 734151

Red Rooster Winery 2017 Golden Egg Okanagan Valley, Canada $65-67 CSPC 828923

Fonseca 2016 Jose de Sousa Alentejano, Portugal

$17-20 CSPC 396689


Animus 2017 Douro Douro, Portugal $15-18 CSPC 752752

26 Culinaire | October 2020

Duquesa Maria 2017 Reserva Alentejano, Portugal

$25-28 CSPC 826113

Gil Family Estates 2018 Pasico Jumilla, Spain

Ferraton Père & Fils 2017 La Tournee Rouge France $17-20 CSPC 820694

$13-15 CSPC 762587

Domaine Richeaume 2016 Tradition Rouge Provence, France $30-32 CSPC 822426

M.Chapoutier 2017 Bila-Haut Rouge Côtes du Roussillon Village, France $17-19 CSPC 739422


Malbec This year’s winners were all from the top malbec-producing country in the world: Argentina. The arid sandy soils of the Andes Mountains have been a perfect bed for the varietal to flourish. A favourite for a lot of new wine lovers, malbec can be a deep fruit flavoured wine with hints of plum and cocoa in some. Whereas, some higher altitude areas in the Andes will produce a much brighter, fresh and spicy style, with balance and long-lasting crunchy dark fruit. Nathalie Gosselin

BEST IN CLASS 1884 2018 Estate Grown Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $19-21 CSPC 770925



1884 2017 Limited Production Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $33-35 CSPC 138453

TOP VALUE Trapiche 2018 Reserve Malbec Mendoza, Argentina


Flechas de Los Andes 2017 Aguaribay Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $22-25 CSPC 738664

$12-14 CSPC 343327

El Esteco 2018 Don David Reserve Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $18-22 CSPC 755882

Your safety is a priority at our 6-course Vine & Dine pairing dinners, so they are only available for around half the usual number of guests. Most are selling out, so let us know soonest if you’d like to join us! You’ll be seated with the people you request in your booking, no other people will join your table. We’re continually adding new dates so please check our website regularly. Email if you’d like to be included in our fortnightly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city. For full details and to reserve your paired dinner packages, places at a Vine & Dine evening, or a private pairing dinner, visit

Vine & Dine Pairing Dinner at Escoba October 3, 16, and 23. Six beautifully served dishes await. Each has been specially chosen for these three superb dinners to be paired with the grapes of Veneto, northeast Italy. We’re learning the differences between Amarone, Ripassa, Valpolicella, and Recioto, as well as whites of the region! $81.75 ++ A One-Off Special Dinner at Soleil Bistro October 5. Including the kobe beef of pork – mangalitsa, and a special guest, to tell us stories of them. Our September evening sold out quickly, so we arranged another evening, and have just the last few places available now! $88.50 Vine & Dine Pairing Dinners at Shoe and Canoe November 13, 20, and 28. Our 6-course paired evenings at Shoe & Canoe sold out four times last year, so we’re excited to come back with a choice of three dates and another superb pairing menu in November! $81.75 ++

Special Beef and Cabernet Pairing Dinner at Modern Steak October 22 and November 26. Not all cuts of beef pair equally with all Cabernet Sauvignons, and we’re privileged to be invited by Modern Steak, to discover for ourselves the difference that cut and aging can make. Our October evening sold out quickly, so we’ve arranged a November evening – reserve your places now! $99 ++ Vine & Dine Online Paired Dinner Packages Have you booked one of our online, multicourse, paired takeout dinner packages, with videos yet? Restaurant dishes from Calgary chefs to eat at home, with small format pairings, and a video with stories taking you through the pairings and flavours. Contactless curbside pickup. Check out our menus and paired dinner packages from Scarpetta, Heaven (100% gluten-free) Escoba Bistro, Safari Grill, Moonlight & Eli, and Jane Bond BBQ. October 2020 | Culinaire 27



One of the largest categories at the Alberta Beverage Awards, vodka is miles away from its not so distant past of being a cheap hit of neutral alcohol. These days distillers aren’t trying to make the cheapest spirit, but working with complex grains and bases, improved filtration, and most importantly great taste. This year’s Best in Class was a tie between a local distillery, Wild Life’s Wild Wolf and a Ukrainian producer, Khor’s Platinum showing just how far vodka has come. Tom Firth

T-Rex Platinum Vodka Alberta, Canada $20-23 CSPC 835767

BEST IN CLASS (TIE) Rocky Mountain Big Horn Ultra Premium Vodka Alberta, Canada $42-45 CSPC 835767

Stone Heart Vodka Alberta, Canada $40 CSPC 785419


Beattie’s Farm Crafted Potato Vodka Canada $38-42 CSPC 812539

Taynton Bay Vodka Canada $38-40 CSPC 818103

Wild Life Distillery Wild Wolf Classic Vodka Alberta, Canada

$49-51 CSPC 787593


Khor Platinum Vodka Ukraine

$28-30 CSPC 739999


Whispering Dutchman Canadian Vodka Alberta, Canada $35-38 CSPC 835854

28 Culinaire | October 2020

Rocky Mountain Big Horn Wounded Warriors Vodka Military Strength Alberta, Canada $47 (with $2 going to military and first responder causes)

Northern Keep Vodka Canada $30-33 CSPC 829752

MD Distillery Still One Premium Vodka Alberta, Canada $30- 32

Herbal Liqueurs & Infusions JUDGES SELECTION


Whether you consume them for medicine, health, or simply for their beautiful herbal flavours, this is a category worth exploring. From the winning Amaro, to Vermouth, and even a super unique, absinthe verte… we say go and try them all! Enjoy in cocktails, on their own as a digestif after a big meal, or just with a bit of seltzer water to cool down on a warm day. They are serious, but cheerful and versatile … hallucinations not guaranteed! Nathalie Gosselin

Casoni Amaro Heritage Italy

$36-38 CSPC 829191

Gonzalez Byass La Copa Sherry Vermouth Spain

$28-30 CSPC 784105

La Pipette Verte Absinth France $85-90 CSPC 820903


Venti - L-Amaro Italiano Italy $50-52 CSPC 820748

TRIPLE THREAT Our award winning 12-botanical London Dry Gin and the Hibiscus-infused version plus our Caesar kicker Jalapeño vodka.



100% Grain to Glass spirits infused with all natural flavours and colours.

453 42 Avenue SE, Calgary, 403-455-9759


Tempranillo and Blends Tempranillo-based wines never seem to disappoint. Whether they are from Rioja, Ribero del Duero, or other parts of Spain, these well-made wines almost always represent excellent value to the consumer. Full of structure, juicy cherry and dark berry fruit, these wines are perfect for pairing with foodolives, aged Manchego, and Serrano ham to name a few. From juicy and crunchy young crianzas to the elegant, smooth and complex Gran Reserva, these Spanish wines are a must have in any wine cellar. Bruce Soley

TOP VALUE BEST IN CLASS Honoro Vera 2018 Rioja Rioja, Spain

Beronia 2015 Rioja Reserva Rioja, Spain

$20-22 CSPC 796836

$22-24 CSPC 731708



Les Vins Bonhomme 2015 El Grand Bonhomme Castilla y León, Spain $32-34 CSPC 667394

Faustino “Art Collection” 2016 Crianza Ribera del Duero, Spain $20-22 CSPC 817866

Merlot A grape Hollywood almost killed, as criticism in film “Sideways” brought its reputation to its knees. A mainstay from the famous region of Bordeaux, these wines are sublime and were unfairly deemed uninteresting. This year’s merlot shone bright with a diverse expression of this noble grape showing its many personalities from around the world. Peter Smolarz

TOP VALUE BEST IN CLASS Hillside 2015 Dickinson Vineyard Merlot Naramata Bench British Columbia

$40-44 CSPC 560680


Wente 2017 Sandstone Merlot Livermore Valley, United States

$16-18 CSPC 171025 2 0 1 8


Powers Winery 2016 Merlot Columbia Valley, United States $25-27 CSPC 800423

Zorzettig 2017 Merlot DOC Friuli-Venezia, Italy $27-29 CSPC 823600 30 Culinaire | October 2020

2016 Cabernet Sauvignon

Judges’ Selection Alberta Beverage Awards, Judges’ Selection

CSM 2016 Cab Acclaim Nkr Int © 2020 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA 98072

Columbia Valley

White Single Varieties To win an award for a single variety wine is no mean feat. The judges are not comparing one wine to another here; it’s possibly the least subjective category of all. Judges are looking for typicity, and drawing on their years of experience as wine tasters to ask themselves: is this a good example of its type? We were thrilled this year to see white single variety entries from all over the world, with top spot going closest to home! Linda Garson




Boschendal Estate Winery 2019 Sommelier Selection Chenin Blanc Coastal Region, South Africa $20-24 CSPC 804595

Coriole 2018 Chenin Blanc McLaren Vale, South Australia $26-28 CSPC 822147

Aveleda 2018 Alvarinho Vinho Verde, Portugal $16-18 CSPC 796430

Luigi Bosca 2019 Moscato D’Asti Piedmont, Italy $28-30 CSPC 828651

Hillside 2019 Gewürztraminer Naramata Bench British Columbia

2017 - 2019

$22-25 CSPC 505206

Les Vins Bonhomme 2018 El Petit Bonhomme Blanco Rueda, Spain

$28-32 CSPC 97014

32 Culinaire | October 2020

$16-17 CSPC 774466


$15-17 CSPC 79046

Wild Goose 2019 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, British Columbia


Clos du Soleil 2019 Pinot Blanc Similkameen Valley, Canada

Marques de Caceras 2018 Rueda Verdejo Rioja, Spain

$23-26 CSPC 414748

Fontanavecchia 2019 Falanghina del Sannio Campania, Italy $27-30 CSPC 818950

Vinologist 2017 Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa $16-18 CSPC 803848

2018 - 2019

Ales - Ambers, Creams & Dark Ales Cream ales tend to be light golden coloured, with dark ales being reddish-brown to black. In between lies the ambers. The differences are a result of the type of malts used. Flavour profiles range from toasted (creams) to caramel (ambers) to chocolate/coffee notes in the darks. Our two winners were quite different with Snake Lake Miss Mermaid Session Ale being a lightly hopped, citrusy ale. Long Hop Red Ale is darker and richer, with a great balance between the dark caramel malts and citrusy hops. Dave Nuttall


Snake Lake Miss Mermaid Session Ale Alberta, Canada $14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 817569

Long Hop Red Ale Alberta, Canada

$16-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 817748

JUDGES SELECTION Hawk Tail Amber Ale Alberta, Canada

Snake Lake Varsity Hall Red Ale Alberta, Canada

Wild Rose Alumn ISA Alberta, Canada

Village Blacksmith Alberta, Canada

Tool Shed Red Rage Red Ale Alberta, Canada

Hell’s Basement Ryes Against The Machine Alberta, Canada

Bow River High Country Amber Alberta, Canada

Tool Shed People Skills Cream Ale Alberta, Canada

$16-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 830289

$16-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 833402

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 769986

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 812677

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 801059

$14-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 747918

$16-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 788020

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 769987


Single Malt Whisky

As these are our eighth Alberta Beverage Awards, you’d think we might see a pattern of trends emerging in the entries, but nothing is further from reality. Some years we’ve been inundated with white spirits, and this year we’re delighted to see an increase in whiskies – so much so that we’ve been able to split them into three separate categories. Linda Garson


There was a time, and it wasn’t long ago, that the single malt whiskies available to us here inevitably all came from Scotland, and it’s enlightening to see that’s clearly no longer the case. The quality of whiskies entered this year was very high, and resulted in a tie between Scotland and the Netherlands!

JUDGES SELECTION GlenAllachie 15 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Scotland $120-130 CSPC 824674

Millstone Single Malt Olosoro Sherry Netherlands

$85-90 CSPC795962

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Cask No. 29.257 “Out of Left Field” United Kingdom

$515-525 CSPC 817717


Other Whisky and Blended Whiskies Covering blended whiskies, and whiskies from all over the world, this category includes a wide variety of styles and aging techniques, and this is reflected in our award winners from Spain, Scotland, and Texas, with the West Cork Bourbon Cask from Ireland leading the way – not only a great tipple, it’s a terrific value too!

Two Brewers #20 Maple Barrel Single Malt Whisky Canada $95-105 CSPC 832900

JUDGES SELECTION Nomad Outland Whisky Spain

$68-71 CSPC 778451


Syndicate 58/6 12Yo Blended Whisky United Kingdom $75-80 CSPC 792743


BEST IN CLASS West Cork Bourbon Cask Blended Irish Whiskey Ireland $45-50 CSPC 804760

34 Culinaire | October 2020

Rebecca Creek Fine Texas Whiskey United States $60-65 CSPC 781470

Canadian Whisky With some of the finest grain grown here on our doorstep, and so many of our craft distilleries having inched past the three-year mark, the minimum aging time for whisky, we’d predicted an increase in Canadian entries. Gretzky, from Ontario, took Best in Class, and it’s a delight to see our local artisans following closely on its heels.

BEST IN CLASS Wayne Gretzky No.99 Red Cask Whisky Canada $43-45 CSPC 796995


Elk Island Ross Creek Rye Alberta, Canada

Alberta Premium 20 Year Old Alberta, Canada

Hansen Northern Eyes Canadian Rye Whisky Alberta, Canada

Rig Hand Bar M Canadian Whisky Alberta, Canada

$50-55 CSPC 809438

$69-75 CSPC 830132

$76-82 CSPC 820652

$89-95 CSPC 811706



October 2020 | Culinaire 35

Coolers and Ready to Drink This understated part of the adult beverage industry has been undergoing a resurgence like no other these past few years. Helped along a little by the COVID-19 situation, more people were drinking at home this summer, and more people were looking for options. At this year’s competition, we had plenty of choices – new and old for our judges, and have split them into two smaller sections for convenience. Coolers are those “classic” sorts, while Ready to Drink is more focused on pre-mixed or cocktail-style refreshers. Hey, you can’t drink wine everyday…. Tom Firth



Eau Claire Spruce Berry Smash Alberta, Canada

And Soda Raspberry Lemon Alberta, Canada

Coco Vodka Original United States

Yukon Haskap Lemondae Yukon, Canada

$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 831358

$14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 822438

Coco Rum Original United States $14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 822439

Crazy Uncle Big Lemon Gingerade Canada $3-4 CSPC 832601

36 Culinaire | October 2020

$14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 834177

Collective Arts Pink Gin Soda with Raspberry & Bitter Orange Alberta, Canada $16-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 829928

Founder’s Original Blackberry Gin Bramble Canada

$4-5 CSPC 833001

$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 812144

SoCIAL Lite Bold - Orange Canada

$13-15 (6-pack cans) CSPC 828701

Ready to Drink (RTD)/Pre-made cocktails BEST IN CLASS (TIE)

JUDGES SELECTION Eau Claire EquineOx Mule Alberta, Canada

Grizzly Paw Mountain Mule Alberta, Canada

$15-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 815460

$13-15 (4-pack cans) CSPC 808941


The Fort Tumbler & Rocks Gin Old Fashioned Alberta, Canada $6-7 (100mL) CSPC 835615

The Fort Tumbler & Rocks Shaft Alberta, Canada $6-7 (100mL) CSPC 834446

Founder’s Original Bourbon Sour Alberta, Canada $4-5 (473mL) CSPC 819677

The Fort Tumbler & Rocks Daiquiri Alberta, Canada $6-7 (100mL) CSPC 836601


WINNERS To find a retailer scan here or visit

Rum Legendary tales of rum grew over the years, being a daily ration for the British Navy, used as currency for a medium of exchange in the new colonies of Australia and my favourite – “15 men on a dead man’s chest, yo ho ho and a bottle of rum” – A 17th Century RSP Savings Plan for Pirates. Rum is produced by distilling sugar and water, the sugar being in the form of cane juice or molasses. Lighter rums are generally produced in large quantities through column still production, the more serious darker aged rums are produced with pot stills and develop nuances of flavour through years of aging in oak barrels. Rum is delicious to savour and sip, a real treat after a long day at work. Andrew Paulsen



Admiral Rodney HMS Princessa Saint Lucia $90-95 CSPC 816764

BEST IN CLASS (Spiced Rum) El Dorado 12 Year Aged Rum Guyana

$35-40 CSPC 912402


2018 - 2019

El Dorado 15 Year Aged Rum Guyana $55-60 CSPC 411124

2018 - 2019

Romero Sugarcane Spirit Alberta, Canada $55-60 CSPC 830114

Zaya Gran 12 Year Reserva Rum Trinidad and Tobago 2018 - 2019

Saint Lucia Chairman’s Reserve The Forgotten Casks Saint Lucia $60-65 CSPC 749269

$66-70 CSPC 710296

Lemon Hart & Son Blackpool Spiced Rum Guyana $36-38 CSPC 793409

T-Rex Distillery Raptor White Rum Alberta, Canada $26-28 CSPC 834461

38 Culinaire | October 2020

2014 - 2015

Cider I am ecstatic to see more ciders on the market in Alberta. Cider has two big advantages over beer - it is gluten free and it appeals equally to all genders. This year it was a tie for first between Rock Creek Dry Light Apple Cider (Alberta) and Collective Arts Circling the Sun Cider (Ontario). I particularly liked the vivid flavours of cherries and apples in the Collective Arts Circling the Sun Cider. It’s the type of cider that I can drink in all four seasons of the year! Laurie MacKay


JUDGES SELECTION Rock Creek Dry Cider Peach Alberta, Canada


$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 778709

Sunny Cider Raspberry Rose Alberta, Canada

$20 (4 pack bottles) CSPC 831094

Rock Creek Dry Cider Pear Alberta, Canada 2 0 1 8 $14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 769474

Lekker Banzai Pynappache Alberta, Canada Rock Creek Dry Cider Light Apple Alberta, Canada $10-12 (4-pack cans) CSPC 828030

$4-6 (355mL) CSPC 835794

Element Cider Co. Original Dry Apple British Columbia, Canada $20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 835120

Hell’s Basement Lovin’ Cider Alberta, Canada

Ask for them at fine wine retailers

$16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 808326

Collective Arts Circling the Sun Cider Ontario, Canada $5-6 (473mL) CSPC 823286

Lekker Eiland Guava Bru Alberta, Canada $4-6 (355mL) CSPC 817205

Pinot Noir


Pinot noir produces wines that are generally lighter in colour and are light to medium body. It is a grape that requires specific growing conditions and attention to produce great wine. Due to growing conditions varying year in year out, pinot noir wine in the glass varies in aroma and flavour, its aroma may be a little off putting at times, my condensed descriptor is like sitting down to a strawberry rhubarb pastry in a freshly composted barnyard, the flavours of red fruit, earth, spice and fine tannin structure are a wonderful taste experience best enjoyed with food, grilled salmon or lamb casserole are two of my favorite pairings. Andrew Paulsen



Social Collection 2018 Bin 118 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, United States $20-22 CSPC 828414

Ritual 2017 Pinot Noir Casablanca, Chile $24-26 CSPC 756324

Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery 2018 Pinot Noir Similkameen Valley, British Columbia $25-28 CSPC 624437

Chevalier de Dyonis 2018 Pinot Noir Dealu Mare, Romania $15-17 CSPC 757637

Robert Weil Junior 2017 “Unique” Spätburgunder Reinhessen, Germany $24-26 CSPC 831825

Erath 2017 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, United States

$26-30 CSPC 726135

Undurraga 2017 “Sibaris” Pinot Noir Gran Reserva Leyda Valley, Chile

$14-17 CSPC 761205 2018

Soli 2017 Pinot Noir Thracian Valley, Bulgaria $22-25 CSPC 801594

40 Culinaire | October 2020

Coffee Infused Coffee, like wine, comes in many different flavours. My go-to is a nice, dark roast espresso with its intense flavour and a slight caffeine kick. I’m just as picky when I drink a coffee liqueur. I want rich, intense coffee flavours, balanced by dark chocolate notes and low to medium acidity. It needs to taste decadent but not sickly sweet. To add a bit of flair to a dinner party, I recommend ending the meal with a glass of coffee liqueur made locally from Fort Distillery, Rocky Mountain or Back 40. Laurie MacKay

BEST IN CLASS Fort Distillery Two Bean Brew Alberta, Canada $30 CSPC 828317

$37-40 CSPC 821101

$34-36 CSPC 800163



JUDGES SELECTION BEST IN CLASS Emilio Lustau East India Solera Sherry Jerez, Spain

$28-31 CSPC 752660 2017

Kopke 2013 Late Bottle Vintage Port Douro, Portugal $36-40 CSPC 728946

Sandeman Fine Ruby Port Douro, Portugal $17-19 CSPC 23366

Cream Liquor Cream Liqueurs are sweet, no doubt, but a splash in your coffee or over ice means they can be poured at any time of day! This category was full of surprises showing a nice diversity of flavours as well as a variety of creaminess levels. Canadian offerings dominated and took top ranks – way to go local! This is a guilty indulgence that deserves a spot in the refrigerator, though it won’t last long. Jenny Book

Rocky Mountain Big Horn Midnight Mocha Alberta, Canada

Back 40 Farmer’s Blend Coffee Liqueur Alberta, Canada

Dessert Or After Dinner While it’s a category of wine that caters to a small but devoted group of wine enthusiasts, these wines manage to hit all the buttons. Rich and sweet, they provide the perfect end to an evening of good food and good conversation. Contemplative wines for a selection of nuts or cheese if you do have room for just one more bite. This year’s top sweet treats are a much-loved classic sherry from Lustau followed by two port wines of exceptional value and versatility. Tom Firth


JUDGES SELECTION BEST IN CLASS Rocky Mountain Big Horn Alpine Cream Alberta, Canada $37-40 CSPC 820640

Elk Island MooseMilk Canadian Cream Liquor Alberta, Canada $35-38 CSPC 826221


Kings Cross Irish Cream Liqueur Canada $24-25 (1140mL) CSPC 768441

October 2020 | Culinaire 41

Gin Gin is on a roll. Not only is the category exploding, it’s filled with brash new bottlings, in almost every shade of the rainbow. High quality gins are made in every country— the UK, Italy, Spain, Germany, the US and Canada. Find classic London Dry styles for a traditional G&T, infused styles for innovative cocktails and oak-aged gins for whisky lovers. What’s next? Alt gin, distilled products that taste like gin but have no alcohol. Mary Bailey



Last Best Afterglow Gin Alberta, Canada $45-50 CSPC 834647


42 Culinaire | October 2020


Roku Gin Japan

Epitaph Blue Gin Alberta, Canada

The London Number 1 Gin United Kingdom

Last Best Savage Love Gin Alberta, Canada

Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin Ireland

$50-54 CSPC 819966

$56-60 CSPC 826650

$44-46 CSPC 802952

SNODAY Gin Alberta, Canada $45-48 CPSC 821022

Ninth Wave Irish Gin Ireland

Whitley Neill Original Gin United Kingdom

$45-50 CSPC 834648

$46-50 CSPC 809941

$48-50 CSPC 557181

$57-60 CSPC 795740

Wild Life Distillery Classic Gin Alberta, Canada

Tippa’s Lovebird Gin Alberta, Canada

$52-55 CSPC 790937

$42-47 CSPC 817159

Whispering Dutchman Signature Gin Alberta, Canada $45-48 CSPC 835851

2018 - 2019

2017 - 2019

Two Rivers Distillery Cockscomb Gin Alberta, Canada

Black Diamond Distillery “From the Wild” Special Edition Gin Alberta, Canada

$50 CSPC 828668


Hilbing & Franke Distillery Hilbing Malbec Gin Argentina $50-60 CSPC 825147



Foothills Creamery Ltd.


India Pale Ale This category used to be one of the easiest to judge as the style was sweet, malty and then at the end - bruising bitterness. The IPA has evolved so much that there are now several sub-genres of IPA, this being a mish-mash of some of those. We were fortunate to have some of the best IPAs at the competition, with a few Rockstar producers missing (their loss). As IPAs were originally overhopped to preserve the beer for travel at sea, these beauties were very delicately hopped using the plethora of hop varietals available to us now, some tropical and fruit forward where others are like tasting the freshness of the Rocky Mountains with a hint of grapefruit. As this has become one of the more popular styles, it is fun to follow its ongoing evolution. Dave Gingrich



$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 800493



Sheepdog Kelsey’s West Coast IPA Alberta, Canada

Phillips Pandamonium Super IPA Canada

Good Mood Session India Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

Village Nomad India Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

Hawk Tail India Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

Phillips Hop Circle IPA Alberta, Canada 2 0 1 7

Evil Corporation Brewing - White Collar Crime - White IPA Alberta, Canada

$15-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 801056

$15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 825617

$17-19 (6-pack cans) CSPC 70979

Cask Aged Beer Barrel aged beers are growing in popularity because brewers have access to more barrels, thanks to a boom in craft distilleries. Barrels affect beer in many ways, adding a variety of flavour profiles. Strong beers are usually beers over 6% ABV but can go much higher. Our co-winners, Grizzly Paw Bourbon BarrelAged Scotch Ale and Paddy’s Barbecue and Brewery Barrel Aged Baltic Porter are both dark and complex, full of coffee, chocolate, vanilla, and bourbon notes. Dave Nuttall 44 Culinaire | October 2020

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 811318

Snake Lake Sidewinder IPA Alberta, Canada

$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 831229

Banded Peak Southern Aspect Alberta, Canada

Delta Inductive IPA Alberta, Canada

BEST IN CLASS (TIE) Grizzly Paw Bourbon Barrel-Aged Scotch Ale (2020) Alberta, Canada

$5-6 (473mL) CSPC 821658

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 818036

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 830293

$16-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 820029


$7-10 CSPC 832076

Paddy’s Barbecue and Brewery Barrel Aged Baltic Porter Alberta, Canada $18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 833936

The Growlery Beer Co. - YXD Alberta, Canada $9-10 CSPC 834970

It’s Your Turn to Ski the Legend This Season

SoCIAL Lite Bold - Orange


$13-15 (6-pack cans) CSPC 828701

For over 30 years Island Lake Catskiing has provided guests with one of the most amazing back-country ski experiences around. The magnificent peaks of the Lizard Range in the BC Rocky Mountains tower over alpine bowls, valleys and perfectly gladed tree runs. We also take Lodge Life seriously and our culinary offering is sure to please the most discerning palate. This season it’s your turn - give us a call to discuss getting catskiing off your bucket list.

Now Booking Winter 2020/2021 1.888.422.8754 Follow: @islandlakelodge

Cognac/Brandy What’s better than wine? How about distilled wine! As the saying goes, “All Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac.” While traditionally the French styles, from the region of Cognac, are distilled from ugni blanc, colombard and folle blanche, some other regions are having fun using some more unusual grapes...yes more unusual than ugni blanc. The grapes moscatel and Pedro Ximinez from Spain are making some rich round styles perfect for after dinner. Kyle McRae

BEST IN CLASS Deau Cognac Napoleon Cigar Blend France $120-130 CSPC 820705

Flavoured Gin Gin, the most crushable of white spirits for a hot day when one is thirsting for an aromatic punch and a squeeze to the tongue. But what if you need a new drug, as Huey Lewis liked to tout, what if you need something exciting, perhaps even something blue? The rise of flavoured gins seems unescapable when one considers the barrierbounding steps of flavoured vodka. It was just a matter of time. Flavoured gin producers tempt and tease with concoctions brimming with blood orange, rhubarb, hibiscus, ginger, grapefruit, and cherry and a million others. The top spot and a decidedly elegant effort in this category goes to Collective Arts Plum and Blackthorn Gin. Its faint hue of lavender and gentle musk notes will surely entice those looking for a little shake-up for their cocktail hour. Brad Royale 46 Culinaire | October 2020


Torres 10 Year Old Brandy Spain

$25-28 CSPC 711733

Hine Rare VSOP Cognac France

$89-94 CSPC 356857

Bridgeland Moscato Brandy Alberta, Canada $46-48 CSPC 823563

BEST IN CLASS Collective Arts Plum and Blackthorn Gin Alberta, Canada $50-55 CSPC825106


Wild Life Distillery Rundle Bar Gin Alberta, Canada $59 CSPC 836497

Luxardo Sour Cherry Gin Italy $37-42 CSPC 801015

Confluence Pink Gin Alberta, Canada $50-53 CSPC 832553

Golden and Blonde Ale This is generally what we like to call the craft category for the people, for it is easy drinking and generally pretty simple to make and cost effective. However, even after saying all that, we in Alberta are really lucky to have had a massive craft brewing boom which has meant that we have golden and blond ales aplenty. Some of these are super light and balanced where as other have a little bite on the end to make it more refreshing and I have it on… “Good Authority” that the winner was exactly that. Dave Gingrich


$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 830415

Village Blonde Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 747916



Revival Brewcade Home Bound Blonde Ale Alberta, Canada

Annex Good Authority Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 834021

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 826628

Hard Knox Black Diamond Blonde Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 823244


Mill Street Gold Yeller Golden Ale Alberta, Canada $4-6 (473mL)

Siding 14 Brewing Dayliner Golden Ale Alberta, Canada $16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 794182

Authentic ingredients. Inspired taste. From the bustling street markets of Southeast Asia. HAND CRAFTED




Southcentre Mall CrossIron Mills

Edmonton City Centre West Edmonton Mall

Non-Alcoholic Beverages A rather strange category for a number of reasons, but still a vital part of beverages in general. Historically, we are used to seeing a number of low and alcohol-free beers which have gotten significantly better over the past few years. But more recently, we’ve been seeing more alcohol-free spirits – if one could call them that. Typically, they are infusions of various herbs, spices or fruits without any of the alcohol – providing more variety in mixed drinks or alcohol free beverages. So whatever reason you may have, or just because you’d rather not be consuming, the options are better than ever. Tom Firth

JUDGES SELECTION Partake Non-Alcoholic Stout Canada $9-10 (4pack cans) CSPC 827579

BEST IN CLASS (TIE) Sexy AF Spirits Triple Sexy Canada $35

John Ross - Virgin Distilled Botanical The Pioneer South Africa $35

Village Local Non-Alcoholic Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $12-14 (4-pack cans) CSPC 818089

Sexy AF Spirits ViirGiin Canada $35



BEST IN CLASS Barker and Quinn Marula Tonic Water South Africa $2-3 (4-pack bottles)

Grizzly Paw Ginger Beer Barker and Quinn Alberta, Canada Hibiscus Tonic Water $6-8 (6-pack bottles) South Africa CSPC 900477

48 Culinaire | October 2020

$2-3 (4-pack bottles)

Pilsner This style originated in 1842, with ‘Pilsener’ originally indicating an appellation in the Czech Republic. These delicious beers are characterized by having a toasted, biscuitlike malt character. Hops are used for a dry clean finish with just a slight level of nobletype hop aroma on the finish. Apex’s version of a Pilsner is a brilliant golden colour that doesn’t disappoint. The nose has a very pleasant herbaceous quality. The taste is a perfect marriage of silky, soft mouthfeel with those classic baked bread notes in the middle and a zippy dry finish. This type of beer is so crushable year-round the perfect pairing after a long bike ride or challenging ski run. John Papavacilopoulos


Banded Peak Mount Crushmore Pilsner Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 818694


Snake Lake Kinabik Pilsner Alberta, Canada

$16-19 (6-pack cans) CSPC 801054

Fahr Pils Alberta, Canada

$16-19 (6-pack cans) CSPC 823888

BEST IN CLASS Buffalo 9 “The Peril in the Atlantic” Pilsner Alberta, Canada $16-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 835003

Mill Street Pursuit Pilsner Alberta, Canada $4-6 (473ml) CSPC 456789

Travois German Pils Alberta, Canada

$15-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 816837

Hell’s Basement Pilling Me Softly Alberta, Canada

$15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 829572


Apex Predator Rushing Waters Bohemian Pilsner Alberta, Canada $15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 806446

Bearhill Crisp Pils Alberta, Canada

$16-19 (6-pack cans) CSPC 793110

High River Sinking Porcupine Alberta, Canada $16-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 836295

2019 October 2020 | Culinaire 49

Pale Ale


Pale ales are usually yellow to golden in colour and straddle the realm between blondes and IPAs. Less bitter than the latter, some have malt driven flavours, while others may be slightly more hoppy, all while staying easy drinking. Annex Ales Forward Progress and Long Hop Hazy Pale Ale are both hazy and full of citrus and other tropical notes. Dave Nuttall


Hawk Tail New England Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

Grizzly Paw Three Sisters Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

Long Hop Hazy Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

Annex Metes and Bounds XPA Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 829733

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 822962

Annex Forward Progress Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 807097

2018 - 2019

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 807099


O.T. Flagstick Hazy Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 821341


The Establishment Brewing Company Afternoon Delight New England Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 810259

Field & Forge Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 815934

Phillips Blue Buck Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 751444


Alley Kat Full Moon Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 829282

2016 - 2017

$17-19 (4-pack cans CSPC 818134


Phillips Glitter Bomb Canada

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 824474

50 Culinaire | October 2020

Long Hop Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

$17-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 815692

Liqueurs It’s such fun to to watch the development of this category. Those that make them are filling a niche, that often we had no idea was there to be filled. But whatever the liqueur is, it has to be sellablemeaning is it fairly priced, and does it suit the market, but also, it has to be good. Mediocre liqueurs don’t last long, and the winds of time aren’t kind to products that are only purchased once. This year, we have a tie for Best in Class with a locally made limoncello (whaaat?) and a consistently delicious framboise liqueur from the Netherlands. Tom Firth



Zuidam Framboise Liqueur

Black Diamond Distillery Limoncello Alberta, Canada

Netherlands $44-48 CSPC 805412

2018 - 2019



Burwood Honey Liqueur - Medica Alberta, Canada $50-55 CSPC 793698


Back 40 Ol’ Apple Betty Alberta, Canada $34-36 CSPC 790534

2017 - 2019

Sheringham Rhubarb Gin Liqueur Alberta, Canada $40-42


bordeaux blends Chardonay Chardonnay is one of the most successful white grape varietals in the world. Known for its appealing flavours of vanilla, butter, oak, tropical notes and exotic flavours to the linear and lean chardonnay from Chablis, this varietal shows tremendous breadth for consumers. However, there is a resurgence with the slightly oaked style as consumers are leaning towards wines that are balanced and showcase the fruit. This year’s submissions proved be a neck and neck category due to the exceptional winemaking where balance, freshness and effusive flavours made for a focus for our winners. Cam Pinkney


Monte Creek 2018 Varietal Series Chardonnay British Columbia, Canada $20-24 CSPC 785865


TOP VALUE Black Stallion 2018 Heritage Chardonnay Napa, United States $32-35 CSPC 780036

Los Vascos 2017 Chardonnay Colchagua, Chile $18-21 CSPC 738877

City & Country Winery 2017 Okanagan White Okanagan, Canada $24-26 CSPC 801272

St Francis 2017 Chardonnay Sonoma, United States $25-28 CSPC 317131

52 Culinaire | October 2020

Hahn 2018 Chardonnay Monterey. United States

$16-18 CSPC 743983

Trentadue 2018 La Storia Chardonnay Sonoma, United States $30-36 CSPC 779650


Porters and Stouts This category of darkness is a fun one - for it is one full of robust, cocoa, and semi-sweet flavours. This is a style developed in the UK however has been crafted all over different parts of Europe and expressing many different characters depending from where it hails. We were very excited to be able to judge the boldest of the bold and the creamiest and sweetest beauties from around Alberta and even Japan. The wonderful thing about stouts and porters is they are always great in the colder months but also make great desserts and aperitifs served solo. Dave Gingrich


Banded Peak Nuclear Winter Russian Imperial Stout Alberta, Canada

$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 833334

Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout Japan

$4-6 (330mL) CSPC 740190

JUDGES SELECTION Hell’s Basement Ghost Train Oatmeal Stout Alberta, Canada

$15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 797113

Sheepdog Coconut Porter Alberta, Canada $5-6 (473mL) CSPC 833255

Born Colorado Arm Candy Milk Stout Alberta, Canada $16-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 815191

Good Mood Porter Alberta, Canada $16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 813154

2019 October 2020 | Culinaire 53

Rosé The rosé category has been moving steadily forward for years now, with ample growth and more and more labels hitting our market every year. Even the likes of Bon Jovi, John Malkovich, Kylie Minogue and Sarah Jessica Parker have all been keen to splash their glam shots with something pink. As of print time there are currently 1099 types of rose-something available in Alberta, not bad for a market that was once struggling with the gentle hues of Rose Quartz. The flights this year were delicious with a wide range of cleanly made and well-priced offerings. Frankly, it has never been better. Top spot goes to the 2019 Bartier Bros. from the Okanagan Valley, a delightful tipple with ample fruit and a snug dry palate, well done! Brad Royale




Soli 2019 Rosé Thracian Valley, Bulgaria

$21.00 CSPC 801593

The Vibrant Vine 2019 Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $25-27 CSPC 824644

O ‘Rourke’s Peak Cellars 2019 Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $22-24 CSPC 834295

Bartier Brothers 2019 Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

$20-24 CSPC 35609


Bollini 2019 Pinot Grigio Rosato Dolomiti, Italy

$21-23 CSPC 815924


As one of the farmhouse ales originating in Belgium, Saison was initially a seasonal beer made for farm workers. It is commonly a wheat ale distinguished by its unique yeast, which produces spicy, peppery, and fruity aromas and flavours. Banded Peak Chinook Saison and Township 24 Left of the Lake Kveik Ale both demonstrate how yeast can define a beer. These winners are full of different flavours; stone fruit, spice, and pepper while being effervescent, crisp, and clean. Dave Nuttall 54 Culinaire | October 2020

Honoro Vera 2018 Rosé Jumilla, Spain $15-16 CSPC 780358



Township 24 Left of the Lake Kveik Ale Alberta, Canada

$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 824543

Banded Peak Chinook Saison Alberta, Canada

$12-14 (4-pack cans) CSPC 800489


Wheats and Wits Depending on which kind of wheat beer you taste; it can vary from citrusy and spicy to banana and cloves and this is just from the Belgian Wit and German Hefeweizen. This was another hard category to score as they were all so good and a decided lack of flaws on most, but when it came to it - the choice was made by finding small flaws and unbalanced finishes. Always interesting when you see the results and at that point the liquid speaks for itself. Dave Gingrich


Fahr Hefe Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 823885

Banded Peak Plainsbreaker Hopped Wheat Ale Alberta, Canada

Heilan Waterhole Wheat Alberta, Canada


$8-10 (650mL)

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 800488


Revival Brewcade Invader Hopped Wheat Ale Alberta, Canada

Bow River Athabasca Wit Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 821781

Bearhill Banff Ave White Wit Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 816962


$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 817432


Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon blanc is both an incredibly popular and highly versatile grape varietal. It’s planted all over the world with the most notable regions being France, Chile and of course New Zealand. First planted in Marlborough in 1975, New Zealand has become synonymous with this bright, zesty, acid driven grape! This is evident in the results for the category this year with 4 out of 5 top spots going to offerings from Marlborough! Erin Loader


Babich 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $19-21 CSPC 560144


Campbell Kind Wine 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand

$25-27 CSPC 819296

Villa Maria 2019 Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand

Veramonte 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca, Chile

$17-19 CSPC 602649


$17-20 CSPC 342360


2017 - 2019

Craggy Range 2018 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $27-30 CSPC 819731

October 2020 | Culinaire 55

Red Single Varieties


We are lucky in Alberta to have such an amazing selection of wine. As great as our favourite pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz may be - there is a whole other world of grape varieties to explore and experiment with. In our red single varieties category this year we had a great selection of classic grapes doing their thing in new regions and a couple of interesting indigenous grapes showing how much diversity there is in the world of wine. Margaux Burgess


Miro Cellars 2018 Petite Sirah California, United States $40-45 CSPC 793479

TOP VALUE Trentadue La Storia 2017 Petite Sirah Sonoma, United States $30-36 CSPC 734657

Artezin 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel Mendocino, United States $22-25 CSPC 720866

Torre Zambra 2016 Madia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Villamagna, Italy $19-23 CSPC 820626

Foreign Affair Apologetic 2016 Cabernet Franc Ontario, Canada

$60 CSPC 809500

Sierra Norte 2017 Pasion De Bobal Utiel Requena, Spain

$28-30 CSPC 150461

56 Culinaire | October 2020

$22-24 CSPC 827639

$19-22 CSPC 824524


Rust Wine Co. 2019 Gamay Similkameen Valley, British Columbia

Sandhill 2017 “Terroir Driven Wine” Cabernet Franc Similkameen, British Columbia

Orofino 2018 Gamay Similkameen Valley, British Columbia $32-35 CSPC 819037

Georges Dubeouf 2018 Beaujolais Burgundy, France $17-22 CSPC 212480

Particular 2019 Garnacha Joven Spain $19-21 CSPS 820550

Other Whisky A bit of a strange one, but these are strange days indeed. We had a number of whiskies in this year’s competition, that used whisky base, but with flavourings that aren’t coming from the spirit or from the barrel. Some enthusiasts might scoff at these products, but they have remarkable versatility in cocktails, and offer rich flavour off the beaten path. Tom Firth



Select Club Pecan Praline Whisky Canada

$44-47 CSPC 822560

Back 40 Smooth Oak Blend (S.O.B.) Alberta, Canada

$36-40 CSPC 835065

Syrah/Shiraz Syrah is a red wine grape from the Rhone Valley in France, successfully cultivated in many New World wine producing countries - most notably Australia since the early 19th century and is mainly known there as Shiraz. The choice of either syrah or shiraz on the bottle label is generally indicative of the wine being produced in a cooler climate (syrah) or warmer climate (shiraz). Syrah in the glass shows more earth, herb, white pepper and black fruit aromas and flavours where shiraz has bigger black and red fruit notes with spice. For food pairing, try syrah with game meats or a roast leg of lamb, shiraz melds wonderfully with barbecued meats. Andrew Paulsen

William Wolf Pecan Bourbon United States

$50-55 CSPC 821622

TOP VALUE BEST IN CLASS Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise 2017 Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia

RedHeads “Barrel Monkeys” 2016 Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia $24-25 CSPC 719933


$18-20 CSPC 19935


Johnny Q Shiraz 2015 South Australia $19-21 CSPC 758717

Tenet 2016 The Pundit Syrah Columbia Valley, United States $24-37 CSPC 826612

October 2020 | Culinaire 57

Kolsch This light easy drinking ale is a style that originates from Cologne, Germany and drinks like a lager with light fruitiness and a minerality on the finish. When you approach this category, you need to take those two notes into consideration, no excessive bitterness or rich maltiness. Fortunately, in Alberta we have been blessed with some amazing breweries that have nailed this lager-like ale to a “T”. Dave Gingrich



Alley Kat Scona Gold Kölsch Alberta, Canada

Township 24 Dominion Kolsch Alberta, Canada

$15-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 829284

$15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 818493


Phillips 78 Kolsch Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 782752

The Establishment Brewing Company My Best Friend’s Girl Alberta, Canada

The Growlery Beer Co. 1929 Alberta, Canada

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 818449

$15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 832860


Japanese Whisky This year’s flight of Japanese whisky was outstanding to say the least! From smooth, unctuous, easy to sip styles all the way to peat-driven smokey beauties. Every brand we tasted was expertly crafted, showing well-integrated, complex flavours and aromas. For all of the whisky lovers out there, these amazing spirits should be a must for your liquor cabinets. Some of these bottles may be pricey but they are worth every penny! Bruce Soley


BEST IN CLASS Junenmyo Red Label Japan $85-86 CSPC 818159


58 Culinaire | October 2020

Togouchi Japanese Blended 9 year old Japan $100-115 CSPC 817269

Togouchi Kiwami Blended Japan $80-85 CSPC 817274

Junenmyo Half Decade Japan $94-100 CSPC 818160

Sour/Farmhouse Brett Ale


These unique beers derive their name from Brettanomyces; but the true character of these beers is most often their ability to balance funk with the other competing components in a Brett style beer. Complex, yet integrated is the goal of the brewer here. Let me begin by stating that the beer panel at the ABA has been judging beer together for going on 8 years and we have NEVER scored a beer this high in all those years; which is an accomplishment in and of itself. Bravo Trial & Ale! You can taste the time it has taken to perfect this beer. John Papavacilopoulos

Canadian-sourced grains are distilled, matured and blended before being finished in our red wine casks. This results in a refined and smooth whisky, with notes of rich oak, vanilla and spice.


Trial & Ale Brewing Company Separated To a Degree Alberta, Canada $18-20 (750mL) CSPC 837172

JUDGES SELECTION Snake Lake Blackberry Boogie Farmhouse Ale Alberta, Canada $14-16 (750mL) CSPC 836215

Snake Lake Sylvanus Series #2 Farmhouse Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $14-16 (750mL) CSPC 822027

Phillips Dinosour Canada

$15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 817080

Mill Street Nothing But Peach Sour Alberta, Canada $4-6 (473mL)

October 2020 | Culinaire 59

Mead It has been great fun watching the mead category grow over the years. Alberta is home to the majority of Canada’s premium honey and with that has come a strong - and growing - mead industry. The basis of mead is simple - honey, water and yeast - however there are many styles and flavour components that may be added. Our winners this year express that diversity with our showing offering something for everyone. Beer lover? Try the hopped mead from Tamarack Jack’s. Like fruit wine or fruit cocktails - grab a bottle of Haskap Melomel from Broken Tine. Something more wine like and elegant, try the Grey Owl Pinot. With all these great meaderies in our backyard, the options are endless! Margaux Burgess


Broken Tine 2018 Haskap Melomel Alberta, Canada

Grey Owl Sassy Apple Alberta, Canada

$29 CSPC 784485

$23-25 CSPC 827703

Spirit Hills Dande Alberta, Canada

$22-23 CSPC 790917

2015 - 2017




Tamarack Jacks Sawyer Hopped Mead Alberta, Canada $6 CSPC 824037

Grey Owl 2019 Pinot Alberta, Canada $23-25 CSPC 833447

60 Culinaire | October 2020

Spirit Hills YeeHaa! Alberta, Canada 2019

$22-25 CSPC 785223

Grey Owl 2019 Bochet Alberta, Canada $23-25 796804

2014 - 2019

Fruit Wine Though typically overlooked, fruit wines – meaning wines made from a fruit other than grapes – can be a wonderful slice of flavour. Notoriously difficult to make a fruit wine with good balance, it is also a tough thing to manage to preserve the all-important purity of fruit. Ever had a bruised strawberry? Not so good, is it? The hardy folks that make the fruit wines below, have the tools (including the fruit), the talent, and the passion. Give them a try if you can, and remember that many local producers are on-site at local farmers markets. Tom Firth


Field Stone Cherry Fruit Wine Alberta, Canada $20-22 CSPC 792631


BEST IN CLASS Field Stone Black Currant Fruit Wine Alberta, Canada

$20-22 CSPC 783516

2015 - 2019


Broken Tine 2017 Haskap Raspberry Alberta, Canada $19-21 CSPC 811792

Monte Creek NV Split Decision British Columbia, Canada $22-24 CSPC 831258

Bird and Bees Multiple Berry Orgasm Alberta, Canada $25 CSPC 816317


Shady Orchard & Winery 2019 Saskatoon & Raspberry Wine Alberta, Canada $20-23 CSPC 815009

Shady Orchard & Winery 2019 Pear Wine Alberta, Canada $20-23 CSPC 815007

chocolate chocolate together together

Bordeaux Blends


Bordeaux Blends are always a big category in wine competitions, as they encompass so many different regions and styles. The original blends from France consist of mainly their two signature grapes: cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with some cabernet franc, petit verdot, carmenère and malbec. Comparatively, outside of Bordeaux, other grapes can also be added, for instance syrah. This year’s winning selection had a perfect variety of regions, from Bordeaux itself, to Ontario, South Africa and BC. All of them bursting with dark fruit, different levels of mineral undertones and beautiful tannins. Nathalie Gosselin


Chateau Tour Bayard 2015 Bordeaux Montagne Saint Emilion Bordeaux, France $29-31 CSPC 765013

TOP VALUE City & Country Winery 2017 Okanagan Red Okanagan, Canada $25-28 CSPC 810114

Mt. Boucherie 2017 Summit Okanagan Valley, Canada $58-62 CSPC 632893

Lake Breeze 2017 Meritage Naramata Bench, Canada $26-29 CSPC 129270

Foreign Affair Dream 2016 Red Blend Niagara Peninsula, Canada

$30-32 CSPC 769213

62 Culinaire | October 2020

Glen Carlou 2016 Grand Classique Paarl, South Africa

$22-24 CSPC 153882

Foreign Affair Conspiracy 2016 Red Blend Niagara Peninsula, Canada $20-23 CSPC 769631

Hazy and New England Style India Pale Ale The classic IPA (India Pale Ale) has mutated into several different varieties in the past dozen years or so. The NEIPA (New England IPA) is so named because its origins trace back to breweries in Vermont. Often similar in appearance to orange juice, these beers are also labelled Juicy or Hazy, and are usually less bitter than regular IPAs thanks to dry (late) hopping. Our favourites, Alley Kat’s Fish Bone and The Establishment Afternoon Delight are both cloudy, juicy, and full of tropical flavours. Dave Nuttall

BEST IN CLASS Alley Kat Fish Bone New England IPA Alberta, Canada $16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 82928



Bow River Lazy Bow New England IPA Alberta, Canada $7-9 CSPC 836756

Annex Force Majeure New England IPA Alberta, Canada

$16-19 CSPC 801190

Troubled Monk Juicy Gossip NEIPA Alberta, Canada

$16-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 809203

$17-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 830066


One of the best things about Alberta’s privatized liquor stores, is that the world is truly at our fingertips. This year, we had a number of unique products originating from Asia that didn’t really fit in other categories, but performed exceptionally well, so we put them here. From soju to umeshu, these are some lovely treasures. Tom Firth

Nakano Sakagura Nigori Umeshu Japan

$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 820771


Asian Libations


OT Brewing 5 Hundie Hazy IPA Alberta, Canada

Nakano Obachaan no Yuzu Japan $17-21 CSPC 781716

Takasago Plum Sake Ume Japan $38-40 CSPC 768497

Shin Whisky Umeshu Japan

$60-65 CSPC 824566

Dae Jang Bu 25 South Korea

$25-30 CSPC 791667

2018 - 2019 2015 - 2016

October 2020 | Culinaire 63

Pinot Gris/ Grigio A category that had no shortage of conversation with the judges because of it’s variety of styles. Crisp, light and refreshing styles of pinot grigio to the medium body and tropical style of pinot gris with aromas of melon, lemon and cantaloupe. BC crushed this category and rightfully so, as it’s the most planted white grape variety in BC but it’s truly the cool and sunny spots of the Okanagan that pinot gris dominates. This is a crowd pleasing varietal that pairs well with a myriad of dishes. Cam Pinkney



Hillside 2019 Unoaked Pinot Gris Naramata Bench, British Columbia $24-26 CSPC 65672


TOP VALUE 50th Parallel Estate 2019 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $21-24 CSPC 223859

Wild Goose 2018 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Zenato 2019 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie Veneto, Italy

$24-25 CSPC 536227

$15-17 CSPC 390906

Mandorla 2018 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie Veneto, Italy $10 CSPC 828360

Savian 2018 La Vita e Bello Pinot Grigio Veneto, Italy $17-20 CSPC 785662

Gose A traditional light, refreshing sour/ salty German beer style from Leipzig, Germany. The good brewers at Banded Peak in Calgary use that base as a playground to help capture what summer feels like in Alberta. With a light orange hue with a touch of haze, and the featured fruit guava dominates the aroma. Citrus zest joins the flavour profile and balances the juicy depth of the sweeter addition. Taste is largely reflective of aroma, with tart and refreshing tropical notes and a light balanced finish on this lush and easydrinking gose. John Papavacilopoulos 64 Culinaire | October 2020



Banded Peak Guavamorphology Guava Gose Alberta, Canada $17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 833845

Wild Rose Ponderosa Gose Alberta, Canada

$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 790639

Field & Forge Lime Gose Alberta, Canada

$17-18 (4- pack cans) CSPC 820389

Saké Saké first captured my curiosity when I lived in Japan in the 1990s. Saké is a unique beverage because it is brewed like a beer but served like a wine. Although we think of serving saké either warm or cold, higher quality craft sakés are served lightly chilled at about 10º C. It’s an obvious match with sushi but one fun trend I’ve noticed recently is pairing junmai saké with pizza! If you are eager to dive into the world of saké, start with a sparkling saké such as this year’s category winner Yoshi no Gawa Inspiration. Laurie MacKay


Tama no Hikari Gold Omachi Junmai Dai-Ginjo Saké Japan $50-52 (720mL) CSPC 153288

Yoshida - Gassan Junmai Ginjo Izumo Saké Japan $40-44 (720mL) CSPC 814318


Yoshi no Gawa Inspiration Sparkling Saké Japan

$16-18 CSPC 814197 (300mL)

LaChamte Sparkling Saké Japan

$15-18 CSPC 836004

Masumi Pét-Nat Sparkling “Origarami” Japan $28-30 CSPC 836948

Tenzan - Shichida Junmai Muroka Saké Japan $38-42 CSPC 831188



S I N C E 176 2


Flavoured Vodkas & Neutral Spirits This category had some changes along the way this year. So many bottlings from all these newer craft distillers defy convention or easy solutions for where they might fit. So, what the judges were looking for in these flights was a neutral expression of the base spirit (however it may be classified), but a balanced, nuanced expression of the flavourings. The following spirits rose to the top, and my advice? If the flavour sounds appealing, give it a try. Tom Firth



Birds & Bees BeHAYve Alfalfa Vodka Alberta, Canada $40-42 CSPC 832950

Copper Cork Cordial #1 Sweet Almond Spirit Alberta, Canada

Copper Cork Vi’s Raspberry Moonshine Alberta, Canada

Eau Claire Prickly Pear EquineOx Alberta, Canada

Burwood Honey Eau de Vie Alberta, Canada

$36-38 CSPC 826909

$50-52 CSPC 789511

$36-38 CSPC 828607

$47 CSPC 812448


Taynton Tea Strawberry Herbal Canada

$29-32 CSPC 817566

66 Culinaire | October 2020

Taynton Bay Raspberry Canada $48-50 CSPC 818105

Absolut Juice Apple Edition Sweden $32-35 CSPC 827801

Unaged Spirits/Moonshine Every year, I eagerly await the scores from our judges in this category. It’s a relatively recent category (at least in legal circles), but relatively big in Alberta with our young craft alcohol industry. This year, we have some great variety from a number of local producers making, clean tasting, raw, foundation spirits suitable for sipping or mixing. The only sad thing is that in the years to come, many of these spirits will evolve into our about to boom Alberta-made craft whisky category. Tom Firth

JUDGES SELECTION SNODAY Single Malt Spirit Alberta, Canada $95-100 CSPC 827369

Hansen Country Charm Cherry Pie Shine Alberta, Canada


$35-40 CSPC 834170

Rocky Mountain Big Horn Cornshine Alberta, Canada

Skunkworks Distillery Moonshine Alberta, Canada

$47-50 CSPC 816614

$37-40 CSPC 825931

Bridgeland BadaBing Alberta, Canada


$46-50 CSPC 836441

Latitude 55 Moonshine Alberta, Canada $37-39 CSPC 813847


Riesling Why do we love riesling so much? Its range, from amiable off-dry to sophisticated bonedry wines to the collector’s items—stellar late harvest and botrytis-affected wines that age for decades. Its versatility, which rewards effortless pairing with so many different foods and cuisines. Canada is well suited to growing riesling; the warm sunny days and cool nights of the Okanagan and Niagara regions fulfill the grape’s potential to create elegant, well-balanced and memorable wines. Long live riesling! Mary Bailey


Monte Creek 2018 Riesling Varietal Series British Columbia, Canada $20-22 CSPC 782542

2018 - 2019

O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars 2019 Riesling Okanagan Valley, Canada $21-24 CSPC 834290

Moraine 2018 Riesling Naramata Bench, Canada $22-24 CSPC 782571

Wittmann 2019 100 Hills Riesling Trocken Reinhessen, Germany $16-19 CSPC 828406

October 2020 | Culinaire 67

Sparkling Wine A style of wine most closely associated with the famous wines of Champagne, these wines actually originated centuries before in the south of France in an area called Limoux. What started as a happy accident with wines re-fermenting inside the bottle as rising spring temperatures trapped the natural bubbles in the wine and created the effervescent wines we still enjoy today. For years Champagne has been the drink of choice for celebratory occasions. The popularity of Italian Prosecco, a much lighter, cheaper and fruitier bubble, has allowed bubbles to become part of everyday life. Peter Smolarz

BEST IN CLASS 40 Knots 2018 Spindrift Vancouver Island, Canada $40-44 CSPC 817401

TOP VALUE Codorniu Brut Clasico Penedes, Spain $15-17 CSPC 503490


Pasqua Prosecco Veneto, Italy

$14-16 CSPC 740335

Gigglewater Prosecco Veneto, Italy $18-21 CSPC 791848

Luna Argenta Prosecco Veneto, Italy $11-12 CSPC 733428

Monte Creek 2019 Sparkling Varietal Series British Columbia, Canada $22-24 CSPC 798645

Tequila and Mezcal Tequila is seeing a recent increase in popularity particularly from the more sophisticated whisky buyers. Don’t get me wrong, Margaritas and other tequila based cocktails are on the rise as well, but the overall appreciation for fine tequila has led to a new kind of buyer. Look to a Blanco or Reposado for everyday back bar selections. These have much more of the bright citrus/agave flavours with a hint of spicy pepper. With more time in the barrel we get into the Añejo style. Expect much more vanilla, coconut, baking spice and smoky characteristics here. Kyle McRae

BEST IN CLASS Siempre Tequila Añejo Mexico $90-95 CSPC 812815


68 Culinaire | October 2020


Mitre Origen Joven Espadin Mezcal Mexico

$46-50 CSPC 831010

Siempre Tequila Plata Mexico

$65 CSPC 785712 2017 - 2018

Don Mateo Mezcal Cupreata Mexico

Cava de Oro Extra Añejo Mexico

$85-90 $250-260 CSPC 824567 CSPC 820349

Fruit Beers This broad beer category has plenty of different competing beer styles from light refreshing kolshs to sweet cream ales as the underlying beer that the brewer then tries to marry with the flavour of fruit. The best examples try to balance these components. The Bow River Cherry-Raz Wit has a medium-light body with an expressive nose. It’s refreshing and the tartness of raspberry puree comes off the back end just right to balance this beer. John Papavacilopoulos

BEST IN CLASS Bow River Cherry-Raz Wit Alberta, Canada

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 832763

JUDGES SELECTION Hell’s Basement The Yard Pineapple Milkshake IPA Alberta, Canada $16-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 803070

Trolley 5 Yacht Rock Grapefruit Radler Alberta, Canada

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 832203

Snake Lake Brighter Horizons Tropical Fruit Pale Ale Alberta, Canada

$14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 833908

Annex Kings English Alberta, Canada

$16-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 830836

Good Mood Hibiscus Rosehip Cream Ale Alberta, Canada

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 833866

Alley Kat Aprikat Apricot Ale Alberta, Canada

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 828951

Grizzly Paw Beavertail Raspberry Ale Alberta, Canada

$16-19 6-pack cans) 2013 - 2015 2 0 1 8 CSPC 803921



American style lagers are traditionally light in colour and body. The flavour in these beers meld together, with no one ingredient dominating the others. Malt sweetness is light to mild, hops are used for bittering, flavour and aroma impart light fruity esters and symmetry is the goal. The winner in this category is a crisp, lightly hopped lager with modern American hops. Daycation from Troubled Monk drinks clean, dry and refreshing, making for an allaround rewarding experience. In these uncertain times it is comforting to be able to find a beer that you can rely on to put a smile on your face and give you the assurance that everything will be alright. John Papavacilopoulos

JUDGES SELECTION Trolley 5 Turntable Lager Alberta, Canada

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 820263


Field & Forge Amber Lager Alberta, Canada

Heilan Vienna Lager Alberta, Canada

Fahr Munich Alberta, Canada

Fahr Copper Alberta, Canada

Collective Arts Audio Visual Lager Alberta, Canada

Trolley 5 Conductor Beltline Lager Alberta, Canada

High Line Brewing Dept. Lager Alberta, Canada

Paddy’s Barbecue and Brewery Vienna Lager Alberta, Canada

$14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 826319

$7-9 (650mL)

BEST IN CLASS $14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 828620

$17-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 834594

Troubled Monk Daycation Lager Alberta, Canada

$17-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 833977

70 Culinaire | October 2020

$14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 821166

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 825330

$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 823390

$17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 834114

White Blends Beyond the single variety options that we all love to enjoy, there is a world of blends out there! Often in the old world the region indicates the blend, Bordeaux for example, or Côtes-Du-Rhône are blends of different grape varieties, or in the new world a proprietary name or listing of the grapes will indicate what is a blend. By blending more than one grape variety together the winemaker can highlight the benefits of each individual grape while allowing the partnership to fill in the holes and create a more complete glass of wine. Margaux Burgess



Wild Goose 2019 Autumn Gold Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $24-26 CSPC 414755

2018 - 2019

Duquesa Maria 2018 Branco Alentejano, Portugal $22-24 CSPC 825877

Clos du Soleil 2018 Capella Similkameen Valley, British Columbia



$28-30 CSPC 823334

Ferraton Père & Fils Samorëns 2017 Côtes-Du-Rhône Blanc Côtes-du-Rhône, France $21-23 CSPC 805648

Pine Ridge 2017 Chenin Blanc Viognier Napa Valley, United States

Donnafugata 2018 Anthilia Sicily, Italy $22-24 CSPC 737435

$22-23 CSPC 746997

October 2020 | Culinaire 71

The Judges

You’d think I’d be tired of shouting from the rooftops about how great our judges are after 8 years of the Alberta Beverage Awards – but you’d be wrong. We couldn’t do any of this without our judges, with their well-honed palates, years of experience sipping, swirling, and waxing poetic about their chosen beverage(s). Selected from among Alberta’s finest restaurants, retail stores, and beverage influencers, I’m proud to share this year’s judges below.

John Papavacilopoulos Oak and Vine

Dave Nuttall Epicurean Calgary, Brew Ed.

Brad Royale Brad Royale Consulting

Bruce Soley River Café

Cam Pinkney OIiver & Bonacini

Dave Gingrich Willow Park Wines & Spirits

Erin Loader Bricks Wine Co.

Jenny Book Fine Vintage Ltd.

Laurie MacKay CBC Radio, Soulvines Inc.

Mary Bailey The Tomato

Margaux Burgess Alberta Liquor Store Assoc.

Andrew Paulsen Co-op Wine Spirits Beer

Nathalie Gosselin Vine Styles

Kyle McRae Highlander Wine & Spirits

Peter Smolarz Willow Park Wines & Spirits

72 Culinaire | October 2020

Why limit happy to an hour? Join us, Monday to Friday from 1 to 5pm for delicious half priced meal solutions that are ready to go. Monday - Gourmet Soups Tuesday - Fresh Sushi Wednesday - Chicken Wings Thursday - Sandwiches & Wraps Friday - Raw or Cooked Prawns Photos are for illustrative purposes only.

Vancouver | Kelowna | Calgary | A division of Save-On-Foods LP, a Jim Pattison business. Proudly Western Canadian Owned and Operated.

E TC E TE R A . . . Cococo Good Clean Fun Bars

Ideal for trick or treaters, although they may never leave your doorstep with this new range from Cococo, these individually packaged, single serve couverture fair trade chocolate bars are guilt-free at only 130 calories per bar. In eight flavours from Saskatoon Blueberry White to Habanero Sea Salt Dark or Milk, Lime or Strawberry Milk, or Green Apple Dark, you’ll want to try them all. Only $10 for 10 or individually at and Cococo stores.

Going Nuts Herb & Garlic Almonds

We also discovered our new favourite flavour from Going Nuts at Garlic Fest – their Herb and Garlic Almonds. Perfectly roasted, these handmade flavoured almonds have just the right amount of garlic powder and Himalayan salt to taste the garlic and herbs without them being overpowering. They’re delightfully dry and crunchy, and we admit that we might be a little addicted to them! 165 g, $10 at farmers markets all over Alberta, and online at

Garchi Gourmet Garlic Condiment

Expecting vampires this Halloween? Granary Road Market cleverly held their Garlic Fest in September, and we discovered some wonderful treats there to ward them off. Garchi (GARlic- CHIli) describe their crunchy, chewy relish as ”The bacon bits of the garlic world” and we know why. We’ve sprinkled it on nachos, in soups, on salads, burgers and pizzas – and we’ve still plenty more uses for it. High praise for this one! 255 g, $8 in stores and markets, or online at Beerfest in a Box

With no community gatherings this autumn, the clever folks at Alberta Beer Festivals have brought the experience to us with their brand new Beerfest in a box! Supporting Alberta’s burgeoning craft brewing industry, the boxes contain one beer from each of eight Alberta breweries, and each case contains a QR code that links you to a video of the brewers talking about their beers, so we can hear from the people who created them. $32-$37 at Sobeys and Safeway Liquor stores. Eve’s Crackers, Chili Pepper Pumpkin Seed

Eve’s Crackers were developed in Eve’s kitchen and still produced as if they were being made there. From Langley, B.C., these handmade crackers are gluten-free, keto-friendly, and vegan – and they taste really good! Canadian flaxseed is a staple ingredient, along with pumpkin seeds, psyllium husk, and nutritional yeast for that umami flavour and crunch. Healthy AND tasty? We’re in! 108 g, $9, widely available across Alberta. 74 Culinaire | October 2020

Good-To-Go Cookbook

Take-Along Food, Quick Suppers, and Satisfying Snacks for On-The-Go Families, by Kathleen Cannata Hanna, Storey Publishing. There may not be many after-school activities these days, but it seems that we’re all still as busy as ever, so suggestions for homemade, kid-friendly, and running-out-the-door meals that can be on the table in under 30 minutes, are all welcome. Great ideas abound here, like using rigatoni pasta as a dipper, and the Crazy Dipping Sauce (p.47) is a must try! $19

winery | bistro

Naramata grown.

And raised.


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At Hillside, our focus is to showcase the unique and compelling characteristics inherent in the terroir of Naramata Bench. Join us in the discovery and development of this enchanting region.

Good no matter which way you look at it. For franchise and expansion opportunities visit

Eat it cuz it’s 100% delicious. Eat it cuz it’s 100% plant-based.

Good no matter which way you look at it. For franchise and expansion opportunities visit