ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 8 NO.8 :: JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020
What's to come? OUR FOOD AND DRINK TRENDS FOR 2020
Alberta Baristas | The Clean FifteenAlberta's & Dirty Rosé Beers & Spirits freshestDozen | food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
2 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
32 VOLUME 8 / ISSUE #8 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020
Old Ideas, New Ways What’s hot and what’s not at the start of the new decade? We looked in our crystal ball to bring you seven food and dining trends for 2020. by Gwendolyn Richards
Grounds For Success Behind every great cup of coffee is a great barista. We’re introducing four rising stars in Alberta’s burgeoning third-wave coffee crowd. by Shelley Boettcher
20 The Drink Trends of 2020 What’s to come in 2020? by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
34 Mad For Mochi Find your local mochi spot! by Lynda Sea
22 Simply The Zest The coldest months bring us delicious citrus fruits! by Natalie Findlay
36 Making the (Half) Case Uncommon grapes, and lesser-known wines by Tom Firth
30 Cheese and Whisky Cheese for Robbie Burns Night by Candace Hiebert
37 Top Value Wines For your post-holiday enjoyment by Tom Firth
31 The New Year Spirit Locally made spirits to start the year by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
38 Everything’s Coming Up Rosé Pink drinks that aren’t wine! by David Nuttall
32 Poplar Bluff Organics: Popularizing the perfect potato by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
42 Open That Bottle David Farran President, Eau Claire Distillery by Linda Garson
26 Clean 15 and the Dirty Dozen If your New Year resolutions include eating more fruits and veggies, our guide will help you make the best choices to avoid pesticides. by Shayla Roberts
Salutes and Shout Outs
Off The Menu – Sidewalk Citizen’s Sweet Scones with Dark Chocolate and Apples
Book Reviews Asian Salads, 72 Inspired Recipes from Vietnam, China, Korea, Thailand, and India; and Gyoza - The Ultimate Dumpling Cookbook
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks: Warming Winter Soups
On the Cover: Many thanks to Rogue Wave Coffee in Edmonton and to barista Janet Ly, for creating the coffee and supplying the beans for our front cover this issue, and to photographer Dong Kim for his superior photographic skills in capturing it for us!
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 3
Letter From The Editor There’s always so much to celebrate and be mindful of in this double issue; not only the two aforementioned festivals, but also for romantics it’s Valentine’s Day; it’s pretty chilly outside and we’re looking for warming, rib-sticking comfort food; and credit card statements are arriving after the holiday extravagances, so we’re looking for value deals to stretch our budgets. Maybe you’ve made New Year resolutions to try and improve your health or weight, eat less but better, or drink less but better.
Happy New Year! And Gung Hey Fat Choy for the Lunar New Year on January 25th – or if you’re from Vancouver, I believe the expression is Gung Haggis Fat Choy to celebrate both Robbie Burns night and Chinese New Year falling on the same day this year.
And good on Mother Nature for lighting up the darkest and dingy days with bright citrus fruit, just when we need it most. We’ve tried to cover all these as much as we can in one issue, with articles to entertain and inform, and recipes to make at home, as well as recommendations for where and what to eat and drink.
We’ve also in included our predictions for food and drink trends for the year – what’s hot in 2020 and what’s not. I’ve just revisited our 2019 trends and I’m thrilled to see we were absolutely spot on! Good news now, we’re past the shortest day and we can look forward to longer, lighter days, which always makes us feel optimistic. And we are optimistic for 2020; it’s time for Alberta to climb out of the doldrums and look forward. With the elections now behind us, we're hoping for more certainty in the year to come. We’re hopeful for a kinder year, a year where we support each other and support our local businesses so we can all thrive and prosper, particularly in the hospitality industry where people work so hard and such long hours for our pleasure. Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
When it’s cold outside - we’ve got everything you need to keep warm and cozy, inside! Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End
CALGARY Willow Park
ALBERTA | FOOD & DRINK | RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson email@example.com Managing Editor: Tom Firth firstname.lastname@example.org Multimedia Editor: Daniel Bontje email@example.com Sales and Marketing: Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 firstname.lastname@example.org For Edmonton: Lorraine Shulba 780-919-9627 email@example.com Design: Little Blue Bug Studios Edmonton Contributors: Daniel Bontje Shelley Boettcher Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay Candace Hiebert Dong Kim David Nuttall Gwendolyn Richards Shayla Roberts Lynda Sea
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Our Contributors < SHELLEY BOETTCHER
Shelley is an award winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She’s the author of the best-selling books, Uncorked: the Definitive Guide to Alberta's Best Wines $25 and Under. If Shelley’s not drinking wine, she's probably drinking coffee. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits, or Twitter @shelley_wine, Instagram @shelleyboettcher.
Book now for your Valentine 2020 dinner celebration
< GWENDOLYN RICHARDS
Calgary-based food writer and author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers, Gwendolyn writes about travel, culinary trends, and chefs and restaurants of all stripes. When not dining out, she loves to putter in the kitchen, creating new recipes or cooking pasta carbonara. She is passionate about burgers - one of life's greatest joys - and bourbonbased cocktails. On a good night out, she enjoys both while wearing her signature red lipstick and patent shoes.
Valentine’s Day couples menu & regular menu available
< SHAYLA ROBERTS
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 firstname.lastname@example.org www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Plant-Based Peak Performance Coach, Shayla Roberts, loves helping people make healthy lifestyle changes. She embraced plantbased nutrition a long time before it was popular and thinks food is the foundation of life. With years studying fitness, nutrition and behaviour change she believes that living well should be fun and sustainable. When she isn’t running in the mountains she is baking vegan cupcakes to share with friends or hanging out with her dogs.
Call to book your table now escoba.ca 624 8th Ave SW 403-474-4829
Shout Outs… Congratulations to all 19 Alberta restaurants included on OpenTable’s top 100 restaurants in Canada! Recognized for service, one-ofa-kind dining experiences, and consistently unforgettable dishes, Alberta has four more restaurants listed than Quebec and 10 more than BC. The list is drawn from restaurants using OpenTable for their reservations. opentable.com/lists for the full list. Food Network Canada’s new show, Wall of Chefs, premieres on February 3, and we’ll recognise many of the “The Wall” - 12 of the country’s best chefs who will judge amateur home cooks in a series of tough challenges. Watch for Alberta Chefs Darren MacLean, Jinhee Lee, and Shane Chartrand. Community Natural Foods has now become part of the Calgary Co-op family! It’s a perfect fit as they share similar values and both are connected to the community. Calgary’s 10 Avenue SW location has revamped its café menu to now include burritos, burgers, and pizzas all with vegan, keto, and gluten-free options too.
N9NA Naina’s Kitchen, on Calgary’s 17 Avenue SW, is now N9NA and has reopened with new owners, but fear not - founder Erin Mueller is still there with her signature custom stuffed burgers, Mac 'n Cheese, grilled cheese, and poutines, as well as a new appie bar menu – and a stone’s throw from the Saddledome, after dining you still get free parking for the games, concerts, and shows! Canada’s first 100 percent low carb and keto café has opened in Inglewood. Wisk Café is the brainchild of two medical technicians who met while serving in the armed forces at CFB
Edmonton, and occupies the ex-Burger 320 space on 9 Avenue SE. The gluten-free menu focuses on paninis, soups, and “leanbacks’ – a type of filled doughnut, along with coffee and soft drinks. Tuesday-Sunday 11-8.
Good Trade Coffee Co. As well as at Crossroads Market, Good Trade Coffee Co. has opened in Kensington, in the former Jugo Juice spot on Kensington Road. Not only is it great coffee, but sales of their coffee support low-income families and agricultural communities in Colombia, and deliver education programs and entrepreneur development initiatives to develop sustainable farming practices in these rural areas. Home & Away is back! After a few months gone from the Calgary scene, this popular sports bar has reopened in the old PARM spot on 1 Street SW. All the Home & Away faves of handhelds, shareables, pizzas, and bowls, are back as well the daily changing, great happy hour deals. The arcade games are there too… but now down below is the new Shuffle Club! Homage to basement bars of days past and where Joni Mitchell was a resident performer, there are 30-ft shuffleboard lanes, an intimate bar, and cozy dance floor. Wednesday-Saturday. EAT Trattoria, on Calgary’s 8 Avenue SW, has launched Fasta Pasta, a pasta bar at the back of the restaurant where the bakery used to be. Fresh pasta on the go from 11-2, or while supplies last. BessieBox offer free delivery of quality Alberta beef from local farmers to your home, and now they’ve expanded their
offerings to include salmon and ahi tuna! Check out bessiebox.com. Mikko Tamarra’s ConMi Taco pop-ups at Calgary cocktail bar Shelter, have been so successful that they’re now permanent! He’s hand pressing his own tortillas and serving authentic items like pig head carnitas… Westman Village has a new addition to its dining and leisure offerings – Alvins Jazz Club is a live music venue and contemporary restaurant, where Executive Chef Christopher Chabot is putting his own spin on classic comfort food dishes such as Chicken Kiev and Beef Wellington, served with a helping of nostalgia for the 1920s Jazz Age. 7 days from 11 am, live music Thursday-Saturday.
Alvins Jazz Club Ferment on Premise is now available at Village Craft Winemaker (VCW) on 58 Avenue SW in Calgary. It’s the only location in the country to use Calgary invention, “UWinemaker™” to keep oxygen out and make crystal clear wine in a shorter time. Simply add your yeast and return a few weeks later to bottle your wine, or purchase one for home use. With 30 bottles per kit, you can split batches with friends too. VCW also offers a selection of bottles, and supplies to make your own wine. Edmonton’s famous Green Onion Cake Man has opened his second location on Jasper Avenue, at the kiosk above the Central LRT Station. You can get your fix of these hot, flaky pastries weekdays 11-2.
More people are opting for the convenience of home delivery with Uber Eats and Skip the Dishes, which in turn has given rise to ‘ghost’ or ‘virtual’ kitchens, and now in Edmonton there are two new ghost kitchens: Century Hospitality Group’s Flying Dodough delivers pizzas, chicken, and salads; and Leva Café’s ‘classic New York pie with a northern twist’ from Sepps Pizza is available to order online too.
Winter Culinaire Vine & Dine Series Events
Vine & Dine, Mélo Eatery
Saturday January 18, Friday 24 and Thursday 30 We’re at Duncan Ly’s new French restaurant for three super delicious nights of 6-course pairing dinners. We sell out nearly every time at his Foreign Concept restaurant! $81.75 ++
Gung Hey Fat Choy! Mr. Chen’s Asian Brasserie The Goose After a major refurbishment, The Goose has opened its doors on Elbow Drive in Calgary, in the former Horny Toad location. Sister restaurant to The Beltliner and Gorilla Whale, The Goose is a bright neighbourhood restaurant, and Chef Kyle Satnik (ex-Divino) is serving up Canadian cuisine with fresh, local ingredients. Try one of the meats from the wood-burning grill, salads, and burgers – or join us in devouring the goose confit poutine! Yum! 7 days a week from 11 am. Children welcome. Edmonton too has a new wood-fired eatery Smokey Bear, in Old Strathcona has opened to acclaim for chef owner Riley Aitken’s passion for intricate, yet simple fare. The constantly changing menu features the best available ingredients at the time, with biodynamic wines, handcrafted cocktails and local beers. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday, and weekend brunch from 12:30 pm. Also in old Strathcona, Polar Park Brewing has finally opened after a lengthy renovation of the building that housed Bee Bell Bakery. The industrial-chic space is also an event venue for up to 200 people, with a state of the art sound stage, and a wide choice of small plates, and of course house-brewed beers. Wednesday-Sunday from 4 pm, minors welcome.
Wednesday January 29 A very special, one-off Fine & Dine pairing dinner at this award-winning Mission restaurant, to celebrate the Lunar New Year in style with superb upscale cuisine! $89.50++
One-Off Valentine’s evening with Brian Keating! Safari Grill
Thursday February 6 Brian is taking us on a romantic adventure! By persistence, good planning, and luck, he happened upon more than you’ll bargain for during this humorous presentation! With a superb 6-course pairing meal too. $97.50++
Romantic Italy Bonterra Trattoria
Tuesday February 11 It’s always romantic in the wine room upstairs at Bonterra. A sparkling reception is followed by an indulgent four course premium pairing meal. $109.95++
Valentine Kitchen Party Shoe & Canoe
Thursday February 13 Brand new! A 6-course pairing dinner in the kitchen with Chef, with demos and recipes! $81.75 ++
Vine & Dine, Queens
Saturday February 15, Friday 21 and Thursday 27 Queens is Vero Bistro’s new restaurant. We’re thrilled to offer three nights in February for this elevated 6-course tapas menu. $81.75 ++
Vine & Dine, Vero Bistro
Wednesday March 18, Thursday 26 Tuesday 31 We’re coming back for our 12th series at Vero Bistro to feast on Chef Jenny’s outstanding 6-course menu - last year all three evenings sold out! $81.75 ++
1st day of Spring Kitchen Party, Shoe & Canoe
Thursday March 19 Brand new! A 6-course pairing dinner in the kitchen with Chef, with demos and recipes! $81.75 ++
ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen
Fridays March 13, June 12, October 2 and November 13, 2020 Our 6-course pairing dinners with chef demos at ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen all sell out well in advance! $81.75 ++
Experience the beauty of Northern Italy
and discover the outstanding wine and food specialties of Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto. Ask for details of our all-inclusive wine and culinary tour of Northern Italy, September 2020! Check out culinairemagazine.ca/events and contact Linda at 403-870-9802 email@example.com, to reserve your places or to arrange a private event.
Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM
We have received several requests for the recipe for Sidewalk Citizen's scones, they’re a staple at not only Sidewalk’s own cafés in Kensington, Calgary’s East Village, and the new restaurant location in Calgary’s Memorial Park, but available at Blush Lane and many other eateries too. We can’t thank Aviv and Michal Fried enough for letting us have this recipe, and and we hope they're as good when you make them at home as they are when Sidewalk Citizen make them! I’ll take Sidewalk Citizen’s any day over my own attempts! If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!
Sweet Scones with Dark Chocolate and Apples: 4 cups organic white flour ½ cup sugar 1 Tbs. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda ½ tsp. salt 110 g cold butter cut into small cubes ½ cup chocolate chips ½ cup apple cut into small pieces ¾ cup (180 mL) cream ¼ cup (60 mL) milk Icing sugar (optional)
Preheat oven to 350º F 1. Mix all the dry ingredients (flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt) in a bowl. 2. Cut the butter to pea size pieces and add to the bowl. Add the chocolate and the apples to the bowl as well. 3. In a separate bowl mix together cream and milk and add to the dry ingredients. Mix it all together with a spoon just until all the dry flour is mixed. Try not to over mix it. Using your hands form loose balls about 180 g each
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and place them on a baking sheet covered with baking paper. Try to keep the balls as loose as possible while still maintaining their shape. *You might have to adjust the mix by adding a bit more cream or flour. 4. Place in the oven and bake until ready, about 20 minutes, when the scones are light brown. 5. Let cool on a cooling rack, and if desired, sprinkle icing sugar on top.
Book Reviews by TOM FIRTH
With every new year, I firmly believe that in our heart of hearts we all resolve to at least “try” to eat a little better and get a little healthier, yet post-holidays we often want to curl up at home on the couch and enjoy some comforting food. So with that in mind, here are two books to cover your bases.
Asian Salads By Maki Watanabe, Tuttle, $20
Love is declared
Maki Watanabe has done a wonderful service explaining 72 varied recipes from spicy and crunchy to quick pickles or even fried spring rolls (which I shudder to call salad, but there are heathier salad wraps inside) with easy to understand directions. From Spicy Salad with Pork, Mint Leaves and Red Cabbage (p.64) to simple Tomato and Bean Sprouts with Vietnamese Dressing (p.50), along with the aforementioned Fried Spring Rolls (p.72) recipes cover a wide range with plenty of options for vegetarians, pescatarians, and omnivores. “Western” style salads can often veer off into overdressed, rich affairs (I’m looking at you Caesar salad) making Asian inspired options a welcome reprieve.
Some dishes might be hard to make as directed without a visit to a specialty market or Asian grocer, but the ingredient breakdowns should help more experienced home chefs think on suitable alternatives.
Wine Spectator 2018V
Gyoza - The Ultimate Dumpling Cookbook By Paradise Yamamoto, Tuttle, $16
ingredient selection to wrapping techniques (with plenty of easy to follow photos) and a bevy of recipes from the traditional to the very… contemporary or internationally inspired. The bacon and egg carbonara potstickers (p.40) are sure to resonate with the Italian gourmand crowd, while the shiitake and pork potstickers (p. 72) promise earthy goodness too.
Who doesn’t love gyoza? This collection of techniques and recipes for all things dumpling, comes from Japan’s “Gyoza King” Paradise Yamamoto, and covers everything from
In a fine nod to tastes and tradition, Gyoza represents a fine blend between recipes for the gyoza enthusiast and for those that might just be looking for a tasty treat or homemade hors d’oeuvre options. A fun book that manages to inspire and find a place on the crowded cookbook shelf.
No.1 selling rosé in Alberta
To Find a Retailer Visit: LIQUORCONNECT.COM/+778270 Also available in 1.5L or 375ML bottles. In Partnership With
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Old Ideas, New Ways For 2020 Food Trends by GWENDOLYN RICHARDS
Hindsight is said to be 20/20. And for the year 2020, food trends do nod to traditional approaches to eating. But this coming year — the start of a new decade — puts past and present on the same plate, combining innovation with old practices.
That means renewed focus on shopping like our ancestors did, a trend to use alternatives for sweeteners and school-lunch sandwiches, and encouraging kids to get on board with being a foodie from the get go. Reusable packaging There was a time when no one went to market without a basket or bag to bring home fresh meat, vegetables and bread. As supermarket chains up the ante on charging for plastic bags — compostable, at least in some cases — a reusable bag is once again de rigueur.
But expect to see an even greater emphasis on reducing packaging for food items, complete with stores offering bring-yourown-container options, and companies eliminating unnecessary wrapping. Plastic straws were just the start.
burgers, meatballs and similar dishes typically made with ground meat.
Flexibility with proteins Beyond Meat burgers are now an established part of many menus — even Tim Hortons got on board with offering the beef substitute.
Soy alternatives One of the granddaddies of protein alternatives, soy, will see trendier ingredients start to take over the spotlight. Hemp, avocado, grains and even mung beans — yes, they are not just for sprouts on your pho — will edge out soy as an alternative for dairy products, such as yogurt.
For 2020, expect to see a little more flexitarian approach to eating. Rather than all meat or all veg, the two will come together in
10 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
Along with added nutritional value, stretching a dish with inexpensive veggies will be better for the budget.
Alternative flours, alternative spreads Those aren’t the only alternatives expected to get trendy in 2020. The ever-expanding options for flour will continue to grow and problematic peanut butter will find itself sharing shelf space with a new array of nut and seed butters. Ethopian teff — used to make traditional flatbread, injera — flours made from coconut and even bananas are anticipated to be big for bakers in the coming year.
Stretching a dish with inexpensive veggies will be better for the budget Meanwhile, unexpected nut and seed butters will join more conventional options like peanut and almond. Sunflower, pumpkin, sesame and watermelon seed — not just for summer spitting contests — spreads will bring a lot of interesting flavour to dishes and standard sandwiches. Changing kids’ eating habits Foodies of the next generation are getting a head start as kids’ menus and food options shift away from frozen foods and good old grilled cheese sandwiches. Parents with adventurous palates are passing on their love of unique cuisines and unprocessed ingredients. With that, kids today are more adventurous when it comes
to what they put on their plate. Expect more international dishes on kids’ menus in restaurants, along with atypical ingredients, like quinoa. Sure, chicken nuggets will never go the way of the dodo, but this year will be about organic versions, along with items such as alternative-flour pastas — after all, what kid can resist macaroni and cheese? Infused edibles Now that the federal government is allowing licensed cannabis producers to start seeking Health Canada approval for their CBD goodies, expect to see infused edibles hitting the shelves early in the year. Along with the stereotypical brownie or baked goods made from infused fats, popular offerings like gummies will make it easier for CBD enthusiasts to feel calm all year long. In the coming months, expect to see an uptick in the number of places offering edibles or recipes on how to make goodies at home. Shove over soju There’s a new Korean tipple about to take over. Milky and an off-white colour, makgeolli doesn’t look like your typical alcoholic beverage. But the raw rice wine, with its tangy and sweet flavour, is picking up a following outside of Korea. It’s slight sparkle makes it feel celebratory, while the low alcohol content makes it great for a night out — without a rough morning to follow.
Gwendolyn is a Calgary-based food writer and author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers. She writes about food trends, restaurants and recipes for a number of publications.
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Chefs' Tips by DANIEL BONTJE photography by DONG KIM
Warming Winter Soups
Soup may seem unassuming, but in the coldest part of the year it can be not only a great way to get value and flavour, but the perfect comfort food as well. From thick hearty stews to complex broths and everything in between, everyone has a soup that is just right for them. If you are still waiting to discover your perfect winter soup, now is the time to get exploring! To find out how to take your soups to the next level, we talked to four Albertan chefs who love soup as much as we do, and are finding ways both at home and in the restaurant to make it special. They gave us their best tips and tricks, and shared how an unassuming bowl can be just the winter treat you are looking for. At Shoe and Canoe in the Delta Calgary Downtown Hotel, Executive Sous Chef Paul Audet says they aren’t trying to reinvent Canadian cuisine; they are just focused on respecting it. For him, that means connecting with local suppliers, which can be rare for a hotel restaurant. At the restaurant, Audet teaches the chefs to respect the ingredients to get the most flavour from them that they have to offer.
For the home cook, he suggests roasting your ingredients whole to develop and intensify the flavours before you add them together. “Keep the temperature low and take your time - you are at home so you have time to really develop those flavours,” he says. “If you take the time to get that incredible richness and caramelization, you get so much more. When it’s cold out, that’s really nice.” For a rich and flavourful, warming winter soup, try chef Audet’s recipe for squash, sweet potato and onion soup.
Curried Roasted Squash, Sweet Potato, and Charred Onion Soup Serves 4-6
1 medium sweet potato, cut into 5 cm cubes 2/3 acorn squash, halved and seeded 1/3 kabocha squash, seeded 1 tsp curry powder 1/3 cup (80 mL) canola oil for roasting 1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved, charred on the grill, sliced
1 heaped Tbs ginger, peeled and sliced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2¾ cups (670 mL) chicken stock or vegetable stock 1 can coconut milk 1/3 tsp Ras El Hanout (Moroccan spice blend of cumin, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, cayenne, allspice and cloves) To taste salt and pepper To taste fresh lemon juice
1. Toss sweet potato, acorn and kabocha squash with a little oil, and season with curry powder, salt, and pepper. Then roast in oven on separate sheet pans at 375º F until golden brown and soft in the inside. Leave to cool. 2. Mix sliced onions, ginger, and crushed garlic and season with salt, pepper. Toss with a little oil. Roast in a 375º F oven for a few minutes until nicely roasted and slightly charred. 3. Once the squash has cooled to room temperature, scoop out and scrape the squash away from the outside peel. 4. Then combine all ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a simmer for 15 minutes and blend until smooth with an immersion blender. 5. Season to taste with salt, pepper and fresh lemon juice, and ladle into bowls.
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Curried Potato and Cauliflower Soup Serves 6
1½ tsp olive oil 1 large onion, diced ½ head cauliflower, cut into florets 1 Tbs curry powder 2 large potatoes, peeled and diced ½ cup diced tomatoes 2 cups (500 mL) coconut milk 3 cups (750 mL) water To taste salt
1. In a saucepot, add oil, onions, cauliflower and curry powder. Cook over medium heat until the vegetables have softened, about 10-15 minutes. 2. Once soft, add all other remaining ingredients and boil until the potatoes are soft, around 20 minutes. 3. Using an immersion blender or stand blender, blitz until the soup is smooth and season with salt. 4. Enjoy right away or cool and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Being at the outskirts of Calgary, in Bearspaw, Flores and Pine’s Executive Chef Rory McGouran is no stranger to a biting winter wind. He says the best soups are cheap and cheerful, and there is just one way to get the perfect balance of flavours. “Taste, taste, taste!” he says. “Don’t be afraid to adjust; once you have the body of your soup don’t just add salt but think about vinegar or spices, tailor it to how YOU like it and then it lasts for days, sometimes even getting better over the week.” For a soup that is hearty without needing many ingredients or any meat at all, try McGouran’s deceptively simple recipe, we suspect it will become a new favourite!
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 13
One of the great things about soup is that as well as being delicious, it’s easy to customize to make it just right for your taste or your family. As one of the Managing Partners at Fife N' Dekel in Edmonton, Jacquie Fenske grew up on soup. “When we were young, we basically lived on cream of tomato soup with macaroni in it, and to this day I still love tomato soup,” she says. “And quite frankly I don’t mind throwing a little macaroni in it still!”
Get a good quality pre-made tortellini and dive in Jacquie says this recipe is perfect as a vegetarian and vegan friendly soup option. Get a good quality pre-made tortellini and dive in.
Spinach Tortellini Soup Serves 6-8
4. Stir in spinach, and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and pepper.
1 tsp (5 mL) olive oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 can (400 mL) no salt added diced tomatoes 1 can tomato paste 3 L vegetable broth 2 Tbs Italian seasoning 1 Tbs basil 250 g of refrigerated cheese tortellini 4 cups fresh baby spinach To taste Parmesan cheese, shredded To taste black pepper
1. In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium
heat. Add garlic, cook and stir 1 minute.
2. Stir in tomatoes, tomato paste, broth, Italian seasoning and basil. Bring to a boil. 3. Add tortellini, bring to a gentle boil. Cook uncovered until the tortellini are tender, about 7 minutes.
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Steak Soup Serves 6
500 g onions diced, 1 cm dice 2 tsp minced garlic 3 Tbs (45 mL) vegetable oil 500 g stew beef, 1 cm dice ¼ cup flour 2 Tbs tomato paste ¼ lemon rind 1 tsp caraway seed 1½ tsp paprika 2¾ cups (650 mL) hot beef stock, can be made with bouillon cubes 500 g diced potatoes, 1 cm dice Pinch salt Pinch pepper
1. Sauté onions and garlic with half the oil, and remove from oil. Sauté beef to brown, remove from oil and reserve.
2. Add the remaining oil to reserved oil, and make a roux by adding flour. Cook to brown but do not burn. 3. Add tomato paste, lemon rind, caraway and paprika. Cook 10 minutes gently, do not burn. 4. Add hot beef stock and whip until smooth.
Turn heat down and simmer.
5. Add beef, onions, potatoes and seasoning. Cook until meat is tender and potatoes are cooked. Correct seasoning if needed. *If the soup has reduced too much or feels too thick, just add a little more beef broth at the end to your desired consistency. Eager to try new things, Dan balances his love of cooking with his love of eating, and can be found scouring the city for new restaurants and recipes to share.
Executive Chef Darren Drew, from Prestons Restaurant and Lounge in Edmonton, knows that a great soup is about keeping it simple and bringing familiar elements together in the best way. On the coldest Edmonton days, everyone wants something warm and inviting, something that they know, and something that sticks to their bones. After working in the kitchen where he can eat so many different things, Chef Drew loves going home to a simple soup and sandwich.
Keep tasting it and adjusting slowly “The biggest tip I have for anyone who is cooking whether it is soup or not, is taste,” he says. “Keep tasting it and adjusting slowly, you can always add more and add in little increments. If you add too much at one time then you are in trouble!” Drew’s hearty steak soup will not only warm you up but fill you up too, and elevates ingredients that are probably already in your fridge to a new level.
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Grounds for success: Alberta baristas
share their stories by SHELLEY BOETTCHER
Behind every great cup of coffee, there are dedicated coffee lovers — the roasters, baristas and buyers. They find us the world’s best beans. They keep us caffeinated. And if we want to learn more, they answer our questions. With that in mind, meet four rising stars in Alberta’s burgeoning third-wave coffee crowd.
Alexis De Villa
Alexis De Villa Barista, Transcend Coffee, Edmonton
The science is complex, but the result? “It’s amazing,” she says.
These days, her favourite brew method depends on what she’s in the mood to drink.
Alexis Da Villa, 25, loves coffee so much, she’s even developed her own special water recipe, with just the right alkaline levels to maximize how good her brew tastes.
She’s come a long way, considering that when she started at Transcend Coffee in Edmonton five years ago, she wasn’t even much of a coffee drinker. A student at the time, she needed a job. Being a barista sounded fun. “Coffee was just a means to caffeine to get through mid-terms for me,” she says.
“I have a few pour-over methods: the Kalita, the V60, and I use an AeroPress, too,” she says. “And if I’m at work, I get espresso there.”
Transcend, however, changed her approach to the humble bean. “It opened the floodgates of coffee culture for me.”
“It’s about making sure coffee growers, people in these less-affluent countries are still paid and can do well.”
“It sounds dorky,” she says with a laugh. “But it allows me to have that perfect balance of sweet and bitter.” To achieve her ideal blend, she adds a bit of epsom salts and baking soda to distilled water.
16 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
No matter what she drinks, she’s always considering the farmers behind her brew.
Karine Ng Quality Director, Phil & Sebastian, Calgary Karine Ng was studying kinesiology and biomechanics at the University of Calgary when she realized she wanted to make coffee a career. She had been working as a barista part-time for years, but her primary gig was the world of sports analysis research. It was a fine job, and connected to her degree. “But at the end of the day, there’s something about coffee that’s more appealing,” she says. These days, she handles quality control at Phil & Sebastian. She creates seasonal drinks and tests new equipment.
Karine Ng, centre
“And I bounce around to all the cafes,” she says. “My job is to be sure that what we’re tasting at the roastery is translated at each cafe.”
By early 2020, she’ll be preparing for the Western Qualifier Barista Competition, a lead-up to the Canadian Barista Competition.
Yes, of course, she tastes coffee. Every day. “I taste our espressos just to be sure they’re still tasting good,” she says.
A third-place winner in 2018, Ng, 34, is planning to compete, but she’s also helping teach a free seminar for first-time
competitors. She’ll be learning as much as they are, she says. “There’s always, always more to learn,” she says. “That’s what inspires me to continue in speciality coffee — this industry is still growing and defining what it wants to be.”
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Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 17
Born in South Korea, David Kim, 29, didn’t drink coffee until a decade ago. At the time, he was studying astronomy, but he couldn’t see a future as an astronomer. He liked the idea of a beverage industry career, so he considered bartending and wine. Neither seemed right. “Those industries are already welldeveloped,” he says. “I wanted something that wasn’t so established, and speciality coffee was relatively new in Korea.” He hired on at Angel-in-Us, a popular coffee franchise in South Korea, where he worked until 2013. There, he learned about Marone, a Seoul cafe that offers weekly tastings for local baristas. “That’s how I really learned how to taste coffee,” he says. “I learned so much.”
David Kim Roaster, David Kim Coffee Jill Hoff Manager of Quality Control and Training Monogram Coffee Co. Five years ago, Jill Hoff went from being a church music director to making coffee. “I was looking for something different and I love speciality coffee,” she says. “I decided to join the crew at Monogram. I was their very first employee.”
He learned about the Coffee Quality Institute, a non-profit that seeks to improve global coffee knowledge. He became a certified coffee taster in 2012 and, that same year, he moved to Vancouver to become a roaster. “But I couldn’t get a Network. I love everything culinary: wine, eating out, coffee.” Competing, too. Hoff is a regional barista competition winner and a former Canadian AeroPress competition winner. And like other Alberta baristas, she is considering the next western barista competition, too.
job, because I had no career history in Canada,” he says. However, Phil & Sebastian needed a barista in Calgary. He was hired and soon became a roaster. In 2019, he won the National Brewer’s Cup. Then, in August 2019, he launched his own business, David Kim Coffee. He has six labels; each is based on a taste profile, not regionality.
Coffee is good for conversations.
He sells primarily online as he builds up the business. “But I want to have a cafe,” he says. “It’s important for people to taste my coffee.” Plus, he says, he loves the cafe atmosphere — as many of us do. “A cafe is that third space between work and home,” he says. “Coffee is good for conversations. It brings people together.” Just don’t expect to see her roasting beans any time soon. “I have zero interest in roasting,” she says. “I really like what I do now.” Shelley is an award winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. If she’s not drinking wine, she's probably drinking coffee. Visit drinkwithme.com.
She hasn’t looked back. And why would she? For a coffee lover, Hoff’s job sounds magical. “I go to each cafe and make sure the coffees all taste good,” she says. “Sometimes I’m at one cafe in a day. Sometimes I’m at all three.” She’s always tasting, tasting, tasting. “It adds up to a lot of coffee in a day,” she says. “I start my day with coffee before work, too.” Born in Edmonton, Hoff, now 38, says a food and beverage-related career seemed right from childhood. “My brother was an athlete and got good grades,” she says. “Me, I’d come home after school and watch the Food 18 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
MOUNT ROYAL IN CALGARY corner of 16 t h a v e . & 8 t h s t. S W 7 a m - 10 p m e v e r y d a y
Photos are for illustrative purposes only. A division of Save-On-Foods LP, a Jim Pattison business. Proudly Western Canadian Owned and Operated.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 19
The Drink Trends of 2020 by TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
What’s to come in 2020? Well, for one, we’ll be able to claim that our hindsight is better than ever in the years to come, but on the drinks side of things, we think this might be the year we start getting excited about all that great craft whisky being made in Alberta. Since the boom of craft distilling in our province, we’ve been justifiably focused on gin. Gin has plenty of room for skill at the still but it’s also a premium product that is ready to market very quickly, a needed part of the portfolio when starting out. But many producers have been busy aging soon-to-be whiskies, and this should be the year we start to see the craft whisky boom. The first from within Edmonton’s city limits is released next month!
Consumers want quality of course As our craft distillers’ reputations and confidence grows, we’ll see more experimentation with different styles of spirits. Local craft aquavits and amari are available now, and 2020 will see the first
Alberta craft absinthe. We’re guessing it won’t be long before we’ll see other anise spirits too, such as pastis.
or partnerships this year, sharing production facilities or finding opportunities to reduce overheads.
Interest in cocktails shows no sign of abating, and we’ll likely see more cocktail bar openings – and maybe speakeasies too - with a focus on well-made cocktails supported by creative small plates of delicious food.
Consumers want quality of course, but it isn’t enough to just be “local” too, it’s going to take some aggressive marketing for some, and some of the newer producers might struggle to differentiate themselves in an already crowded field. For the distillers, it might be bringing out a different type of spirit, but for the brewers it might be more of a challenge to bring something new to beer drinkers that will keep them coming back.
In somewhat less than positive fashion, the craft producer’s wild west of a new operation opening up seemingly every month or so is probably going to change. There are several indications that the current crop of craft brewers and distillers is close to its peak. A few have closed, a few are quietly for sale, and some are limping along, while others continue to thrive. We wouldn’t be surprised to see some mergers, takeovers,
20 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
For this reason, we expect to see a growth in local craft ‘ready-to-drink’ coolers, premixed cocktails, tonics and sodas, and other quick to market, low cost products that will succeed on creativity and quality rather than requiring deep pockets and additional investment.
Still with spirits, or maybe we should call them ‘non-spirits’, alcohol-free distilled drinks are on the increase with products already available from the UK, Holland, and now BC too. As more people want an evening out without the morning-after consequences, it would be natural to expect to see more non-alcoholic spirits become available throughout the year in our market. Cannabis-infused drinks are already in production, and will be in cannabis stores soon. They're slated to hit Alberta shelves in mid-to-late January. They will have to taste good instead of just being novel to succeed in the long term though, and finding appeal with non-cannabis enthusiasts might be a challenge. On the vinous front, we hope for less “natural wine” but a little more focus on terroir-driven, non-interventionist wines. Rosé is here to stay, but if it will continue to be as popular if the sommeliers and retail trade has moved on to the next big new thing, we doubt recent year’s trends have significantly changed drinking patterns for beautiful rosé. As the economy in Alberts continues to sputter, look for a continued focus on interesting and honestly made wine from regions a little off the beaten path. Wellmade, well-priced wines from Spain or Portugal, and to a lesser extent the lesserknown wines regions of France are well placed to bring value and quality to the table. Whatever is in your glass this year, drink it responsibly and with pleasure – we’ll cheers to that!
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 21
Simply The Zest Story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY
Isn’t it wonderful that the coldest months of winter bring us citrus fruits that are ripe and ready for us to enjoy? These jewels of the fruit world are packed with nutrients that are good for the body at a time when we need them most. Vitamin C is citrus fruits’ biggest claim to fame, but they also pack a punch as they are loaded with antioxidants, flavonoids, B vitamins, potassium, phosphorous, magnesium and copper. They are a good source of fibre, they strengthen the immune system, help keep skin smooth and elastic, and have both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects on the body. All that and they taste like a burst of sunshine on a cold winter’s day. These recipes are easy, and packed with citrus flavours.
Rosemary Grapefruit Spritzer Makes 4 drinks
1 cup (250 mL) water ¼ cup sugar ½ sprig fresh rosemary 2-3 large grapefruits 3¼ cups (780 mL) spritz of choice (tonic water, San Pellegrino, champagne)
1. In a small pot over medium high heat, add water, sugar and rosemary.
2. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and let simmer 15 minutes to make a syrup. Let cool (can store up to 1 week in the fridge). 3. Squeeze grapefruits for juice.
4. Divide rosemary syrup, squeezed
grapefruit juice and spritzer into 4 large glasses.
5. Stir, top with ice, and garnish with
a sprig of rosemary.
4. In a sauté pan, over medium to medium-
high heat add the butter, masala and coconut sugar and stir to combine. Let melt then add the slices of orange. Cook about 1 minute on each side. Remove from heat.
Fresh Mozzarella Orange Masala on Toast Serves 2 - 4 as appetizers
4 - 8 slices baguette 1 orange 1 lime 2 Tbs butter 1 Tbs garam masala powder ¼ cup coconut sugar 1 large ball buffalo mozzarella
1. Set oven to broil. Toast baguette slices until brown on each side and set aside.
2. Zest orange and lime and reserve. 3. Remove skin and pith from orange and slice horizontally into 8 slices.
5. Add a squeeze of lime. Place the toasts on a serving board. Separate the mozzarella into 8 pieces and place on top of toasts. Place an orange slice on each. Sprinkle with lime zest. Orange Beet Salad with Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette Serves 2 -4
1. Coat beets in olive oil and wrap each
beet in foil (this will steam the beets while they roast) and place on a baking sheet. Roast beets for approximately 1 hour, depending on the size. Use a paring knife to test if the beets are cooked through. You should be able to pierce the beet easily with the pairing knife. Remove from oven and let cool.
2. For the dressing, add oil, garlic, lemon juice and parsley to a small bowl and whisk or use an immersion blender to incorporate. Reserve. 3. Remove skin from beets and slice
4 red beets, ends trimmed 4 golden beets ¾ cup (180 mL) olive oil 4 cloves roasted garlic 1 Meyer lemon, juiced 2 Tbs parsley, finely chopped To taste sea salt 1 orange 1 avocado ½ cup walnuts ¾ cup microgreens
5. Layer beet slices on your serving plate, add avocado slices, orange segments, walnuts and microgreens.
Preheat oven to 400º F.
Drizzle with dressing and serve.
into rounds. Reserve. Remove skin and pith from the orange and slice into segments.
4. Half avocado, remove seed, remove skin and cut into slices. Give walnuts a rough chop.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 23
Lemon Cod with Olives and Feta
quarters making sure each is fully touching the pan bottom. Let cod cook 3 minutes.
A quick and easy, as well as delicious, weeknight meal!
3. Turn cod and lemons. Add the olives and
2 fillets (400 g) fresh cod 1 tsp each salt and pepper 2 Tbs flour 1 lemon, quartered ¼ cup (60mL) olive oil ¼ cup olives ¼ cup feta Parsley, for garnish
4. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
1. Season cod fillets with salt and pepper. Lightly flour on each side.
2. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add olive oil. Add your cod fillets and lemon
feta. Let cook another 3 minutes.
Citrus Fruit Salad Serves 1 - 2
1 can coconut cream 1 small mango 1 slice pineapple, skin and centre removed 1 lime 1 orange ½ grapefruit ¼ cup coconut flakes ¼ cup cashews
24 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
1. Refrigerate coconut cream overnight. 2. Remove skin and seed and cube mango. Cube slice of pineapple. Zest lime. 3. Remove skin and pith from orange,
grapefruit and lime and segment all the fruits.
4. Open can of coconut cream and remove
just the cream from the can. Add cream to a small mixing bowl. Whip until soft peaks form (2 - 4 minutes).
5. In a serving bowl, add all fruits. Top with
coconut flakes and cashews. Top with coconut cream and lime zest. Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custommade cakes.
EXPERIENCE ONE OF THE BEST CRUS IN PIEMONTE Ruby red with hues of violet. The nose is elegant and intense, with notes of fresh mature red fruit, such as cherry and currant.
Accompanies pasta with tomato, pizza, Livorno style fish and white meat.
Please drink responsibly.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 25
Is it time to drop the Dirty Dozen and Embrace the Clean Fifteen? by SHAYLA ROBERTS
With each new year comes renewed interest in cleaning up our eating habits. It’s a good resolution because it’s relatively easy to keep. Many people resolve to eat more fruits and vegetables or possibly decide to choose organic ones when they can. Which is the best choice for you, and is nutrition the most important benefit? Eating more fruits and vegetables has many benefits. These include the variety of colours and textures, which keep recipes interesting,
and important phytonutrients for nutrition, but some also come with unexpected ingredients - pesticides. You should know what you are getting when you buy your groceries. This may include some of the 225 pesticides found on popular fruits and vegetables.
Pesticides that include Dacthal “DCPA” are commonly found on kale - one of the most popular leafy greens. How do you find out? The U.S. based Environmental Working Group (EWG) produces a handy shopping guide to help you make the best choices when it comes to produce and avoiding some of the chemicals.
Consider buying organic when it comes to the “Dirty Dozen” The guide is based on produce tested by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Produce is washed, and if necessary peeled, then tested for residues. If they are detected you can assume that unwashed and unpeeled produce would contain more residues. The EWG’s Shopper’s Guide ranks the pesticide contamination present in 47 of the most popular fruits and vegetables you buy at your grocery store. It takes its ranking from
grapes, peaches, cherries, pears, tomatoes, celery, and potatoes. Here is a closer look at the 5 worst offenders and why you may want to choose organic when you add these to your grocery list.
the analysis of 40,900 samples tested by the USDA and FDA. The USDA doesn’t test all foods every year and this means that the EWG usually uses the most recent 1-2 year samples for popular foods. Here in Canada, the Canadian Food Inspection Agency also monitors pesticide residues with a Maximum Residue Limit that is set by Health Canada. Since 2011 these allowable limits are set along with the U.S. Environmental Protection Act for standard limits. Produce with the highest levels of pesticide are labeled the “Dirty Dozen.” You may want to choose organic when you put this produce in your basket. The “Clean Fifteen” which are less likely to have residues could be purchased as conventional produce as well as organically.
The Dirty Dozen
The Dirty Dozen in order of highest to the lowest levels of pesticide residues are strawberries, spinach, kale, nectarines, apples,
Strawberries We love strawberries and we eat lots of them, but conventional strawberries have more than a dozen types of pesticides that have been linked to cancer — many are banned in Europe. Conventional strawberries contained on average 7.8 different pesticides per sample. Almost all strawberry samples tested had at least one pesticide residue - even after washing, while 30 percent of strawberries sampled had 10 or more pesticide residues. Spinach Spinach is a healthy staple in most kitchens, but conventional spinach has more pesticide residues by weight than any other produce tested. On average, spinach had 7.1 pesticide residues on every sample, with up to 19 different residues on a single test sample. The USDA has also found pesticide residues in frozen and canned spinach which means that washing and cooking won’t eliminate pesticides. Many of the pesticide residues found on spinach can cause nervous system disorders and tremors in high doses.
nutrients per pound than any other food, but 60 percent of conventional kale is contaminated with a possible carcinogen. In the U.S. the pesticide DCPA is sprayed on kale, broccoli, sweet potatoes, eggplants, and turnips, and is banned in Europe. DCPA has also been linked with lung, liver, kidney and thyroid problems. On average, kale samples had 5.6 different pesticides with up to 18 residues in multiple samples. Kale adds flavour, texture and vital nutrients to many recipes, but with the added presence of pesticide residue, organic kale is a recommended choice. Nectarines Delicious in desserts or as a snack, 53 percent of conventional nectarines have pesticide residues that are probable carcinogens, hormone disruptors, neurotoxins and developmental toxins. These pesticides also interfere with bees and have an environmental impact.
Kale Kale is a popular green for Canadians and a nutritional powerhouse with more
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Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 27
Apples Most conventional apples are dipped in diphenylamine, a chemical to prevent the skin from turning brown while in storage, and approximately 80 percent of apples tested had this chemical which was also found in conventional apple sauce. The European Food Safety Authority has concluded that there is not sufficient evidence to confirm that diphenylamine is safe for human consumption and reduced the allowable limits on imported apples to the EU. If you can, it may be a good idea to choose organic offerings of the Dirty Dozen. While pesticide residues are set for a level that is generally recommended as safe, they don’t take into account that you may be eating a variety of conventional produce or maybe you just love kale and eat it every day.
You can safely choose conventionally grown produce from the “Clean Fifteen” One vegetable that is not on the list, but is a staple in kitchens for the spicy food lover is hot peppers. This one is not on the EWG’s
Dirty Dozen list, but the USDA tests on hot pepper samples have found high residues of three toxic pesticides that are banned for some crops, but not for hot peppers. The EWG recommends eating organic hot peppers, or at least cooking them, which can reduce the levels of these pesticides.
The Clean Fifteen
If you choose conventionally grown produce, try to pick from the following options. These fruits and vegetables have the least pesticide residues with less than 1 percent showing any pesticides. The cleanest of the Clean Fifteen are avocados and sweet corn with less than
28 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
1 percent of samples showing any pesticide residue. More than 70 percent of the Clean Fifteen had no pesticide residues and only 6 percent showed more than two pesticide residues present.
• Avocados • Sweet Corn • Pineapples • Frozen Sweet Peas • Onions • Papayas • Eggplants • Asparagus • Kiwis • Cabbages • Cauliflower • Cantaloupe • Broccoli • Mushrooms • Honeydew Melons
Choosing organically grown produce lowers the pesticide residue in our diet and contributes to lower levels of exposure while providing us with all the great taste and benefits. Some studies have found that pesticides may be linked to fertility problems and avoiding excess exposure may be even more important for pregnant women, babies and growing children. If you switch from conventional to organic produce you will reduce your levels of pesticide residues after only one week. When families that typically ate conventional produce were tested, researchers found approximately 40 different pesticides present. When these families then switched to organic foods their levels of pesticide residues dropped by 60 percent in just one week. When it comes to cleaning up your diet for the new year, consider buying organic when it comes to the “Dirty Dozen”. Reduce your exposure to harmful pesticides and the potential side effects while still getting the benefits of eating more fruits and vegetables.
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You can still safely choose conventionally grown produce from the “Clean Fifteen” to get all the benefits from adding more produce to your day. Shayla Roberts, Plant-Based Peak Performance Coach, wants you to eat more plants. Connect with her at www.evoltuioncoachingu.com
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 29
Cheese And Whisky by CANDACE HIEBERT photography by DANIEL BONTJE
Cheese and wine are often paired together, but for Robbie Burns’ night, why not pair cheese with whisky? The high fat content of cheese is a perfect match for the high alcohol content of whisky while, unlike wine, whisky doesn’t contain tannins that can dull the tastebuds. We have included some rough whisky pairing suggestions with each of our featured cheeses and rather than mandate specific bottles, we have kept the suggestions broad enough that it should be easy to find a suitable pairing in your own collection, or give you options when purchasing a bottle. From the top:
Vlaskaas is a buttery semi-soft cheese from Holland. Smooth and nutty, with a distinctive deep yellow colour, its gentle caramel creaminess gives way to darker, sharper undertones as you eat it. Whisky pairing: The mildness of this cheese makes it a versatile one to pair. Look for something from Speyside, with at least 12+ years of age.
Le Dauphin Brie
Named after the heir to the French throne, it’s easy to taste why this buttery Brie is sometimes called the prince of French cheeses. With a rich, silky texture and a mild creamy flavour with hints of vanilla, Le Dauphin is always a crowd pleaser. Whisky pairing: the best pairing here is a whisky on the lighter end of things – even with a younger age statement, or a blended bottle.
White Stilton is the more innocent younger sister of the famous blue Stilton – instead of having the penicillum roqueforti mold introduced into it that produces the blue veins, it has dried apricots scattered throughout. This results in a sweet, crumbly, and tangy cheese delightfully punctuated by bits of fruit. Whisky pairing: medium bodied with a port cask finish if possible, otherwise look for a bottle from the Lowlands.
Lindsey Bandaged Goat Cheddar
This aged Canadian goat cheddar is “bandaged”, a traditional aging process when it is wrapped in cheesecloth and coated in oil. Lindsey Goat is an earthy cheese, strong and musty, with rich notes of caramel. Whisky pairing: a bit of peat or smokiness will work well with the flavours of the cheese. Try a bottle from Islay, but don’t go overboard with the peat!
This creamy American blue from Wisconsin is smoked over fruitwood, giving it a warm smoky flavour that balances its sharpness. It is salty and a little crumbly, finishing rich and smooth in the mouth. Whisky pairing: look for a sherry cask finish, but nothing too heavy; alternatively, a Highland bottle will also work well.
With many thanks to Springbank Cheese who provided all these delicious cheeses for photography and sampling. Candace is passionate about food – eating it, making it, and talking about it - and is up to try any and all new culinary experiences, especially with friends.
30 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
The New Year Spirit by TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
Now that the new year is upon us, you might have sworn off enjoying the “hard stuff” for a little, but if you haven’t, we’d love to recommend a few locally made spirits from right here at home. 2020 is the time to buy local! Whether it’s a warming rye whisky, or if warmer days are calling to you as you enjoy a gin and tonic, we’ve got you covered.
Wild Life Distillery Wildcat Amaro
Amaro from Alberta? Yes! Canmore’s Wild Life Distillery have cleverly infused their vodka for a few months with orange and lemon peel, vanilla, mint, wormwood, gentian, and cacao, and then blended it with Fallentimber Meadery’s traditional mead to produce a delightfully smooth and warming, sweet yet bitter, viscous, sipping alternative to after dinner brown spirits – or try adding prosecco for a Rocky Mountain spritz! CSPC +823121 500 mL $37
Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye
A special limited release from Alberta Premium, the cask strength rye comes out at a fiery 65.1 percent ABV, all the better for showing off the spicy aromas with lighter caramel notes and a decidedly citrus fruit character. We prefer it with a little water to cut the heat, but a very smooth, almost silken finish, makes for a great sipper (though you could use it in a mixed drink too). CSPC +821839 $60-64
Alberta Premium 20 Year Old Limited Edition Rye
We don’t get that many Canadian whiskies boasting a 100 percent rye mash bill or even a twenty-year age statement, so this might be a good collector whisky or one to show off for friends. All that rye spiciness on the nose with paraffin wax, leather, and roasted apples leading in to a clean, spicy spirit on the palate. Excellent on its own, but if you must mix it, try not to overshadow this lovely spirit. CSPC +820652 $86-90
RAW Distillery Botanical Gin
An Alberta-made gin utilizing only 5 botanicals, Raw’s Botanical Gin does it with style. A London Dry style of gin with juniper and spruce leading the way on the nose. Big and resinous on the palate with softer botanical notes still coming through, it’s a good bet for those who love a good G&T or even a gin and seven. CSPC +795908 $45-47
Stone Heart Vodka
One of our favourite Alberta craft producers, Stone Heart is really in the heartland of Alberta. Coming from Innisfail, and a farm to bottle distillery in every sense of the word, their vodka is remarkably clean and smooth, treading perfectly the balance of whether or not vodka should be neutral or flavourful. A great sipping vodka to have on hand. $40
Poplar Bluff Organics: Popularizing the Perfect Potato by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
Alberta diners who pay close attention to restaurant menus may recognize the name Poplar Bluff Organics.
friend’s farm when she was about 12, she became fascinated with the idea of growing.
The farm has long provided some of Calgary and the Rocky Mountains’ most prestigious restaurants with its high quality potatoes. When it comes to potatoes, Poplar Bluff has become a bit of a rock star in the farming world, thanks to the vision of proprietor Rosemary Wotske.
Cultivating a farming career from scratch can be tricky, but after pursing academic degrees in science and doing some world travelling, in 1985 she took the plunge and purchased some farmland near Strathmore.
Potatoes haven’t always been Wotske’s thing, but her interest in farming started at a young age. Even though her parents both came from farming families, Wotske wasn’t raised on a farm, but after visiting a family
“It took a while to get there, but I knew I wanted to be a farmer,” Wotske says. “And I knew nothing. I started small and basically just bought a bare piece of land.” Wotske started with asparagus, which was not a particularly popular ingredient in the
late ‘80s — she tried selling to local restaurants but could only find one chef in Strathmore familiar with the vegetable. Wotske started selling at the Millarville market and realized that well-stocked tables make more money, so she diversified by growing other vegetables and cut flowers, while also making pickles and preserves, and even raising livestock. While all of this gave her enough stock to sell at multiple farmers’ markets throughout the week, it was also a recipe for burnout. By the early ‘00s, Wotske realized that she needed to pare things down.
“I backed off and asked myself what we did really well,’” she says. “I looked at what our soil was really good for and it came down to potatoes. That’s the crop that people most remarked on, so I started specializing.”
The soil is everything to grow tasty food
From the beginning, Wotske wanted to grow organically — having lived in Pakistan during her wandering days, she learned that free range and organic farming practices made for tastier food. In her early farmers’ market days, however, she found that organic labeling was often a deterrent to customers who saw the label as being overly fussy. After a short experiment with chemical assistance, she realized that she preferred her organic practices, even if it isn’t a priority to every customer. Wotske’s science background has helped her understand that organic practices don’t just protect people from chemicals — her particular methods of growing actually make for better tasting and more nutrient-dense potatoes. “It was really tough to do organic in the beginning,” she says. “But the more I grow plants and put organic matter into the soil, the better the food tasted. So I came to realize that the soil is everything to grow tasty food.”
While not all retail customers are willing to pay extra for the care that Wotske puts into her food, high-end restaurants are more appreciative of the sweetness and quality of an extraordinary potato. Calgary’s River Café, a pioneer when it comes to highlighting local produce, was Wotske’s first restaurant client and continues to buy from her regularly. Since Wotske grows up to 18 different varieties of potatoes, restaurant chefs also provide a market for lesser-known or less physically attractive potatoes that may not appeal to the typical home cook. Agria potatoes make up 80 percent of Poplar Bluff’s restaurant sales — the flavourful yellow potato is versatile and makes for excellent roasted potatoes, French fries, and mashed potatoes.
While letting an expert chef prepare your potatoes is always a good choice, and you’ll be able to find Poplar Bluff potatoes on the menu at the aforementioned River Café as well as dozens of other spots like Hotel Arts, Charcut, Tapas in Canmore and the Banff Springs Hotel, you can also get those agrias and other varieties in a number of stores in the Calgary region. Look for them at Community Natural Foods, Blush Lane Organic Markets, Gull Valley Greenhouse in the Calgary Farmers’ Market and other organic grocers and specialty shops. Popular Bluff products are also available for delivery via Spud.ca. For more information, visit poplarblufforganics.com.
“I love working with chefs,” Wotske says. “I’d go to farmers’ markets and have a new variety of potato and people would just want russets because they didn’t know how to cook with other potatoes. But with chefs you never get that. If you have something new to try, they’re in. They’re so creative and so adventurous.” Potatoes remain Wotske’s primary crop, but about 15 years ago she teamed up with a neighbour by the name of Cam Beard who grows carrots, beets and parsnips. Since Wotske now has decades of marketing knowhow behind her, she markets Beard’s root vegetables under the Poplar Bluff umbrella.
Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 33
Mad for Mochi by LYNDA SEA
For the uninitiated, mochi can resemble a marshmallow, but this traditional Japanese rice cake is so much more. Deeply rooted in many traditions of Japanese culture, the very chewy, sticky, stretchy and oh-so-addictively tasty treat comes with assorted fillings like green tea, red bean, sesame and even fruit. Traditionally, it’s made from pounded steamed rice where two people are working in unison with a large wooden mallet pounding the rice until smooth in a wooden mortar. In Japan, mochi is often made and eaten to ring in the New Year. Nowadays, you’ll find these as year-round snacks, stocked at more than just specialty stores or Asian supermarkets like T&T. Here are some local spots across southern Alberta to find mochi. Fosters Oguraya Bakery Fosters is a family-owned bakery specializing in Japanese baked goods in Calgary’s Spruce Cliff neighbourhood. Fosters’ daifuku comes
in a package of six ($6.50) - a trio of white, green and light pink confections of sweetened sticky rice filled with red bean paste. The mochi ice cream are small orbs of flavoured ice cream wrapped in the traditional rice cake. Ice cream flavours range from creamy vanilla and summer strawberry to taro, pineapple, mango, red bean and chocolate. ($3.50 for one container or 5 for $16) 532 Poplar Road SW, Calgary, fostersbakery.ca
is coated with a fine dust of shredded coconut and peanut. (3 for $2.25) 135, 328 Centre Street SE, Calgary True World Foods Off-the-beaten path and tucked away in an industrial area in Calgary’s northeast, this small and mighty specialty import store is packed with hard-to-find Japanese drinks,
Rainbow Bakery On weekends in Calgary’s Chinatown, this small Chinese bakery in Dragon City Mall sees a steady stream of people buying fresh buns and egg tarts. Rainbow calls their mochi ‘sticky rice balls,’ but fret not, the super chewy texture and sweet filling is the same. Their mango rice ball has a sweet mango puree filling while red bean can be found inside the mini green tea rice ball. Another flavour comes with a black sesame filling and
34 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
snacks, ingredients and frozen foods. It’s primarily a grocery store but there are also weekly lunch specials of fresh sushi and onigiri. Their freezers hold mochi of all sizes and flavours that range from yuzu, black bean, sesame, cream cheese, pudding and chocolate but the bestseller is the milk mochi. Most packages won’t have any English on them so ask the friendly shop-owner if you need help deciphering labels. 6, 1826 25 Avenue NE, Calgary Dauck Sa Rang This quaint shop in downtown Calgary specializes in Korean rice cakes like songpyeon, half-moon shaped rice cakes with sweet fillings like mung bean, red bean or chestnut to sesame seeds and honey. Unlike traditional Japanese mochi which is quite soft and chewy, these Korean rice cakes are much more dense. A must-try item here is the frozen mochi with fresh fruit inside. The strawberry mochi ($2.50 each) is a large ball nearly the size of your hand that comes frozen, and you thaw to room temperature before enjoying. There’s also matcha mochi ($4.99/three) available. 324 10 Avenue SW, Calgary Hello Mochi As a self-described dessert-fiend, Sheryl Yu started out just making gluten-free, vegan mochi squares for her family as both her kids were allergic to dairy and eggs. Her fresh smallbatch mochi donuts are essentially deep-fried mochi so it’s chewier than your average donut but with a soft and pillowy texture. The rotating flavours include salted caramel, toasted coconut and the ever-popular snickerdoodle - an addictive two-bite treat coated with cinnamon and sugar and topped with buttercream icing. If you want your choice of donut flavours, get there before noon. These mochi donuts have sold out every day since she has been open at the Bountiful Farmers’ Market. ($3 each, 4/$11) 3696 97 Street NW, Edmonton, hellomochi.ca Cookie Crumbs This Edmonton bakery is better known for its waffle cookies and pucks (hybrid waffle and shortbread pastries), but their vegan and gluten-free mochi is gaining popularity. Their Moffle Bites are made from short grain sweet rice that has been soaked for 10 hours, then steamed in coconut milk for two hours and cooled. After the dough is kneaded for a few more hours, the fillings are folded in by hand and include flavours such as black sesame, red bean, matcha, chestnut and chocolate. Pasticcio is a delicious filling of black and white sesame seeds, shredded coconut, chopped almonds, pistachios and peanuts. ($4.25 each or six for $22). Old Strathcona Farmers Market, Bountiful Farmers Market, Edmonton, cookiecrumbs.ca
(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW minassteakhouse.coM
Churrascaria & Restaurante
Lynda Sea is a freelance writer/editor based in Calgary. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, Westjet Magazine, enRoute, Flare. You can often find her hiking in the Canadian Rockies and eating her way through Alberta.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 35
Making the (Half) Case by TOM FIRTH
A new year hopefully brings new opportunities and optimism. Hopefully, things are looking up all around, and while I generally don’t participate in New Year’s Resolutions, it’s helpful to remind oneself to shake off bad habits and endeavour to improve. From a wine perspective, I felt it best to look slightly outside the box for these recommendations. A few new or uncommon grapes, some lesser known wines or regions (and a lovely riesling which I had to share).
Find these wines by searching the CSPC coder at liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Foris 2017 Riesling Rogue Valley, Oregon
13th Street Winery 2017 Gamay Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Murviedro Sericis Cepas 2018 Merseguera Valencia, Spain
I’d heard several good things about this wine in the past, but hadn’t had the opportunity to give it a taste until recently, and I wish I hadn’t waited so long. Crisp, juicy riesling with bright mineral tones, zesty citrus and green apples, and a very well restrained sweetness. This was a welcome treat for the palate. CSPC +768084 About $25-28
I’m a huge fan of gamay these days and it was a treat to try one from Ontario recently. Rife with cracked peppercorn and strawberry fruits with a subtle touch of rich earth and savoury notes. Mild tannins, great acids and varietal character, would really pair well with high quality sausage, game birds, or heavier seafood dishes. CSPC +812768 About $27 on most shelves
Merseguera is an all but forgotten, nearly extinct grape, which in most hands can be a little uninspiring, but with some carbonic maceration and extended lees contact, and battonage, it can shine. A pleasing combination of green apple and melon fruits with not-quite-tropical notes and a mild sourdough tone. Interesting, unique, and tasty for sure. CSPC +820188 About $25-28
Murviedro Sericis Cepas 2015 Viejas Bobal Utiel-Requena, Spain
Boschendal Sommelier Selection 2017 Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Boschendal “1865” 2017 Shiraz South Africa
Familiar with bobal? You should be. Earthy and woody (in a wonderful way) with smoke and a hint of charred tomato and clean cherry fruits. Big tannins are supported by big flavours and a long, mellow finish with all things in balance. Pair with roasts or game meats if possible, but would also work with earthy, mushroom dominant dishes. CSPC+816660 About $25-28
A tremendous value in chenin blanc, Boschendal’s Sommelier Selection sees a combination of stainless steel fermenting and lees contact preserving the cleanliness, but also bringing a little extra body to the wine. Honey and lemons dominate the wine with crisp acids that will pair oh-so-well at the table. Try matching with grilled poultry or even squash-based dishes. CSPC +804595 About $19-22
Sourced from several wine regions within South Africa, this is quite the steal in shiraz, and a bottle that straddles the shiraz/syrah styles gracefully. Slightly smoky with intense floral tones, dried herb and leafiness, and subtle spices on the nose and palate. A different approach to shiraz that works very well; try with roast meats, charcuterie, or a little cheese. CSPC +778979 About $19-22
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Top Values for Your Post-Holiday Enjoyment Itâ€™s that time again, sure, you might have sworn off indulging in wine after the holidays. Give that old liver a break, detox and refresh, but maybe you still want to have a nice bottle at dinner or continue to entertain or visit with friends. The wines on this page are a recap of our Top Value wines from our 2019 Alberta Beverage Awards. These wines were among the top tasted in their categories by our esteemed
panels of judges, but post competition (and since the judges are tasting blind - and that includes the prices), the team at Culinaire occasionally identify the awarded Judges Selection winners with a coveted Top Value award. Wines that punch well above their weight-for the price.
Trivento 2018 Reserve Chardonnay Mendoza, Argentina CSPC +809519 $15-17
The complete results with the judges can be found online at culinairemagazine.ca/aba-results
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.
Bouchard Aine 2017 Beaujolais Burgundy, France CSPC +112805 $14-16
Trapiche Zaphy 2018 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina CSPC +742929 About $13-16
Marques de Caceres 2017 Verdejo Rueda, Spain CSPC +774466 $12-15
Barefoot NV Pink Pinot Grigio California CSPC +800574 $12-14
Oyster Bay 2018 Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand CSPC +715714 $22-25
Cono Sur 2018 Bicicleta Shiraz Chile CSPC +750262 $11-13
Campo Viejo 2016 Tempranillo Rioja, Spain CSPC +757170 $14-16
The Dreaming Tree 2016 Crush Red Blend California CSPC +747984 $17-20
Quinta de Aveleda 2018 Vinho Verde Vinho Verdes, Portugal CSPC +734584 $14-16
Fontella 2017 Chianti Tuscany, Italy CSPC +730108 $15-18
Monster Vineyards 2016 Cabs Okanagan Valley, British Columbia CSPC +897074 $19-22
Wayne Gretzky 2017 No. 99 Pinot Grigio Okanagan Valley, British Columbia CSPC +5934 $15-17
Folonari 2016 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Valpolicella, Italy CSPC +481838 $18-20
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 37
Everything’s Coming Up Rosé by DAVID NUTTALL
Believe or not, there was a time not that long ago when rosé wines were hard to find. However, in about the last 5 years, you may have noticed rosés are everywhere, to the point where over 900 blush wines are now listed in the province. Piggybacking on that explosion is the recent trend of rosé in other liquor products, including beer, cider, coolers, gin, vodka, liqueurs, and more. Though whether they are called rosé is up to the manufacturer.
a delicate balance, especially in lighter styles of beer. Rosé beer is not a recognized style by any major guidelines, so it tends to fall in the hybrid or specialty categories.
Rosé colour is possibly even more relevant in cider. Besides adding the same fruits and adjuncts that can be used in beer, rosé cider may be created by using red flesh apples or skins to provide the necessary pink colour. There are many ways to create the rosé colour Red grapes can also be combined with the in non-wine spirits. One is to use the natural apple juice, developing flavours ranging from colouring from red berries, pomegranates or fruity to floral. other fruit, hibiscus, rosehips, or even just adding some tinting. The idea is to get that In hard spirits, the rosé theme works best familiar pinkish hue that is all the rage. with what otherwise would be clear spirits. Here vodka, and especially gin, shine. The pink This new fad can be mainly found in beer and colour can come from adding fruit, colouring, ciders. While breweries have being playing or by being aged in red wine barrels, as has around with beer/wine hybrids for a couple of been done with a few brands of tequila. decades, it is due to the current popularity of rosé wine that has seen the rise in rosé beer. The Alberta market has fallen in love with rosé, and not just in wine. Grapes can be used much like any other fruit, and as less than half of the fermentables to be Below is a selection of products that should be still classified as a beer. Seeking the fine line easy to find on many liquor shelves. Colours in flavour profiles of both beverages requires range from pink to salmon to light red.
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VODKA Three Olives Rosé Vodka Pink vodka with red berry aromas and flavours of pomegranate and citrus. Made using natural flavours and colours. CSPC +799652, $30 GIN Bohemia Colossal Pink Gin Made in Kimberly, B.C. with local botanicals and huckleberries to create the pink colour. CSPC +994020, $50 Malfy Gin Rosa Sicilian pink grapefruit, Italian rhubarb and local botanicals create this citrusy gin. CSPC +802167, $38 BEER Oskar Blues Guns 'N' Rosé Yes, they had a little litigation issue with the band of (almost) the same name. A fruity ale with a tartness and colour coming from prickly pear and hibiscus. CSPC +814544, $19 (6 pk. cans)
Firestone Walker Rosalie Beer Rosé Pilsner malt wort is co-fermented with a five-grape juice to create a true beer-wine hybrid. Hibiscus flowers are added to give colour and additional floral notes. CSPC +819544, $21 (6 pk. cans) 88 Brewing Tiffany Rosé Saison This Calgary brewery combines a golden Belgium saison with pinot noir juice in the fermentation tank, resulting in this unique 8% tart and dry creation. CSPC +808702, $6 (500 mL bottle) Bench Rosé Wildwood A barrel-fermented sour is refermented with pinot noir grapes and strawberries, giving it a fruity carbonated red wine flavour. CSPC +824618, $12 (500 mL bottle) Dieu Du Ciel Rosée d’hibiscus A Belgian wheat ale combined with hibiscus flowers evokes a slightly tart pink grapefruit aroma and flavour. CSPC +736357, $20 (6 pk. bottles)
Ommegang Saison Rosé A blending of saisons, one aged in oak, the other brewed with hibiscus flowers and co-fermented with chardonnay grape juice to create a beer with a pronounced wine flavour and a tart, berry saison back end. CSPC +825496, $25 (4 pk. bottles) CIDER Angry Orchard Rosé Cider Made with six varieties of apples including red flesh apples from France giving it a hint of red berries in its apple flavour. CSPC +800090, $19 (6 pk. bottle) Big Rock Rock Creek Rosé Cider The combination of apple cider, natural rosé wine flavour, black currants, cinnamon, vanilla, and ginger, give this cider its colour and flavour. (6 pk. bottles) Anyday Rosé A blend of apples, rosé wine made with petit verdot and grenache grapes, plus cascade and citra hops. CSPC +810031, $20 (4pk. cans)
Lonetree Rosé Crafted with apples, Champagne yeast, and elderberries, to give a dry rosé finish. CSPC +815228, $5 (473 mL can) Somersby Rosé Somersby has a semi-sweet red berry flavour, with the rosé look coming from natural colouring agent. CSPC +815294, $5 (500 mL can) Strongbow Rosé This blend of apples includes red-fleshed apples, producing the colour and a slight berry flavour. CSPC +816135, $17 (4 pk. cans) COOLERS Truly Rosé Hard Seltzer Alcohol from cane sugar with additional ingredients give this seltzer the aroma and flavour of strawberries. It also contains mandarina hops. CSPC +813533, $18 (6 pk. cans) David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 39
Etcetera... Okami Kasu
Chef Darren MacLean, of Shokunin Izakaya, joined forces with Calgary’s Ol’ Beautiful brewery in 2017 to produce the world’s first beer featuring Sake Kasu - the leftover rice mash from Sake production - and until now it has only been available at the restaurant and distillery. The good news is that now this silky-smooth and creamy light ale is available in cans to purchase in liquor stores. It’s a great beer for food and particularly perfect with Japanese cuisine. CSPC +828033, around $16/6 pack.
For some, the new year might be a time for healthy drinks, and Kombrewcha from New York has arrived on liquor store shelves across Alberta. At 4.4 percent ABV, Kombrewcha is made from Fair Trade black tea and purified water, along with only certified organic ingredients cane sugar, yeast, kombucha culture, and juices, and comes in two flavours, Berry Hibiscus CSPC +824391 and Royal Ginger CSPC +824389, $17-18/6 pack
Lumette! Cocktails with non-alcoholic distilled spirits are becoming increasingly popular for those who want to enjoy a drink without worrying about getting home or the next morning, and now we have a local version! Sheringham Distillery, of Sooke in BC, have launched Lumette Bright Light AltGin, distilled from juniper, cucumber, grapefruit, orange, mint, grand fir, and rose, which combine for a fresh and aromatic drink with a lot of flavour for your highballs, gimlets, and New Orleans Fizz. Around $32.
Wild Tea Hard Kombucha Cider After over a year in the making, Calgary’s Wild Tea’s dream has finally come true to brew an alcoholic kombucha using small batch methods. At 6 percent ABV, Hard Kombucha is a naturally fermented pear cider spiked with the tart kick of kombucha and comes in two thirst-quenching and refreshing flavours: Blueberry Hibiscus and Ginger Lime. Around $17/4 pack
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Soupin’ It Up How clever are these soups in a cone?! Hand made in Calgary, Soupin’ It Up offer more than 40 flavours of their dry soup mixes ready for you to add the liquids and simmer away. There are plenty of gluten-friendly, veggie and vegan options, and they’re MSG-free too. Serves 8. $8, at Granary Road Mercantile; Dinner Factory, St. Albert; Olds Uptowne Market; Okotoks Main Street Market; The Saskatoon Farm; and other supporters of local products, or order online at soupinitup.ca.
BLENDED JAPANESE WHISKY
$3 Taco Tuesdays! Pre-Flames Game Special - $15 for 3 tacos & a pint of beer!
1011, 1 Street SW, Calgary and at Avenida Food Hall
Elegance. Defined Find us on liquorconnect.com
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 41
A spell back at the growing Big Rock followed, and Farran bought property in Calgary. Again with great timing, he sold at the height of the boom, and with veterinary partners, bought small animal veterinary clinics, which they grew substantially to own 65 clinics across Canada and build the first specialty hospital. They were bought out in 2013. Farran and some likeminded enthusiasts were farming with horses as a hobby and producing grain, but they weren't big enough for the Canadian Wheat Board. “We were drinking whiskey and thinking ‘wouldn't it be fun if we could turn this into something made with horse-farmed grain’,” he says. “And then I visited Oregon and saw the growth of the craft industry, and thought ‘this is coming here’.”
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM
“We really wanted to create an industry for Alberta, and I think we've accomplished that. We now have 37 distilleries in the province, and we are a force in the beverage industry here,” says David Farran, President of Eau Claire Distillery and of Alberta Craft Distillers Association. Fifth generation southern Albertan, Farran grew up on a farm in South Calgary, where Woodbine is now. His maternal grandfather had the OH Ranch, and he grew up a young cowboy, even riding bareback bronc. His father, Roy Farran, had married a Calgary girl and immigrated from Britain. He founded North Hill News, and was a politician, alderman, Solicitor General, and head of the old Alberta Liquor Control Board. Farran is the ultimate entrepreneur with a string of successes under his belt from good judgement and excellent timing. “One of my first jobs was with Ed McNally, who ran Big Rock Brewery, and he was a great mentor for
me,” Farran says. “I was the first employee at Big Rock in 1984, and I did everything but make the beer.” McNally encouraged him to go to school, and Farran took an economics degree at U of C. He graduated during the cost-cutting Thatcher years, and with dual citizenship, was appointed British Vice Consul, based in Edmonton. When that ended, he and his wife went on an expedition to West Papua, and on returning started Pipestone Travel Outfitters. They had three stores in Calgary as well as 120 adventures that they marketed to travel agents around the world, selling the company just before 9/11 when the travel industry plummeted – which was sheer good fortune.
42 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020
But it wasn’t allowed in Alberta; to start a distillery you had to produce a million litres of alcohol. “There was a clause in the legislation that you could take 18 months to reach that level, so with Larry Kerwin, Big Rock’s brewmaster, I submitted a plan and took a bit of a gamble,” Farran laughs. “I bought equipment in Europe and we started producing - and in 2014 they changed the legislation.” So what bottle is closest to Farran’s heart? “The most special one for me is Ploughman’s Rye. It was one of the first whiskies that came off the line at Eau Claire, but more importantly it's made with the horse-farmed rye that we produced. So it really is the farm to glass concept, which wraps up the pieces of what we're trying to do,” says Farran. “We produced it with horses at Bar U ranch, and we carefully squirreled it away in barrels. It's a superlative product for us, and it really reflects what we're about. We may never see it again, but it's received great accolades - I'm very proud of it,” he continues. “I will celebrate this bottle with my fellow horse farmers. We do this every year, so this is symbolic of all the hard work that we've invested in that, and it's a very special product to be able to share with them.”
CELEBRATE THE NEW CYCLE WITH JOY AND RADIANCE PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - January/February 2020 43
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