ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 8 NO.6 :: NOVEMBER 2019
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HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR FOOD AND DRINK LOVERS!
Game Day Snacks | International Beers Alberta's | BBQ Around The Globe freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
2 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
34 VOLUME 8 / ISSUE #6 NOVEMBER 2019
Yakking Around The vast majority of Albertans haven’t ever tried eating yak, yet there is a growing number of upstart yak farms in our province. by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
International BBQ Our backyard grills may be going into hibernation, but we have a wide range of barbecued meats available to us all year round. by Carmen Cheng
38 Culinaire Holiday Gift Guide We’ve scoured local stores as well as the internet to bring you ideas for special food and beverage gifts this holiday season! by Culinaire Magazine
Departments 16 Beer Really Does Make the World Go ‘Round Alberta has access to the greatest selection of foreign beers by David Nuttall
18 Heat Up The Kitchen …with warming roasts by Natalie Findlay
22 Cheese Glorious Cheese Warm cheeses for cold days by Candace Hiebert
All The Noods! Noodle soups are a go-to for any occasion by Diana Ng
Salutes and Shout Outs
Off The Menu: Anju’s Broek Acres Spicy Pork Shoulder (Jeyuk Bokkeum)
46 Making The Case …for winter whites by Tom Firth
Book Review How to Cook Everything, Simple Recipes for Great Food
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks: Grey Cup Game Day Snacks
50 Open That Bottle Laurie MacKay, CBC radio’s House Wine columnist by Linda Garson
24 Spice it Up – Fondue 48 Etcetera...
On the Cover: We could stare at this delicious bowl of noodles from Edmonton’s Filistix, all day. Thanks very much to Dong Kim for warming our souls with his photograph; we don’t feel the chills at all!
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019 3
Letter From The Editor Yes, November 24th is looming large, and if you’re not planning to be at McMahon Stadium watching the game and listening to Keith Urban’s half-time performance, and you’re planning to enjoy the night at home, then we have ideas for feeding your friends and family.
2019 just seems to be flying by! No sooner are we back from our outstanding wine and culinary harvest tour of Portugal (if you haven’t yet visited the Douro Valley, do put it high on your bucket list, it’s breathtaking. I can’t wait to return with our repeat tour in May next year), and then we’re looking at recipes for Game Day snacks (Page 10).
And as the weather’s cooling down outside, we have ideas for warming food inside looking further afield at satisfying noodle soups from around Asia, and where to find them in Calgary and Edmonton, as well as international BBQ dishes and where to eat them. Not forgetting the international beers to drink with them! We’ve also been scouring our stores and the internet for Holiday gift ideas for whichever winter festival you celebrate, and have included our gift guide in this issue with suggestions for celebratory drinks, cookery books for all ages and levels of
mastery, tasty edible items, as well as gifts for the home, and stocking stuffers. In other news, we were saddened to hear that after 26 years serving the Calgary market, City Palate ceased operations with their September/October issue. City Palate was a wonderful voice for the food scene in Calgary. I really can’t stress enough how important it is that we continue to support - and redouble our efforts to support – the local businesses that help make our cities and province great, and the voices that share them. Cheers Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief Correction: Our apologies, in our October issue, the Burwood Single Hive Rye Cask was listed in the Rye Whisky category when it should have been in our Honey Based Products category.
Eat. Drink. Be Merry. Repeat.
Whether you’re a seasoned pro at holiday entertaining or hosting your first festive gathering, we have a bounty of fresh and imported ingredients and recipes to inspire. Pressed for time? Bring your own board and our deli team can put together the perfect cheese or charcuterie platter.
Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End
Italiancentre.ca CALGARY Willow Park
ALBERTA | FOOD & DRINK | RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson firstname.lastname@example.org Managing Editor: Tom Firth email@example.com Multimedia Editor: Daniel Bontje firstname.lastname@example.org Sales and Marketing: Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 email@example.com For Edmonton: Lorraine Shulba 780-919-9627 firstname.lastname@example.org Design: Little Blue Bug Studios Edmonton Contributors: Anna Brooks Carmen Cheng Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Dong Kim Diana Ng David Nuttall
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Our Contributors < DAVID NUTTALL
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He achieved his Beer Judge Certification in 2012, and is the head judge for Calgary International Beerfest as well as a judge for the Alberta Beverage Awards. He has appeared on radio, television, and in the movie Aleberta: Our Beer History. He is also a freelance writer for print and online, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow him @abfbrewed.
< DONG KIM
Dong is a professional photographer, schoolbased children’s mental health consultant, and small business owner, but you’ll often find him traveling and eating his way through different cities and his hometown of Edmonton. His passion for food can be seen in the photography for various media including the “Edmonton Cooks” cookbook. Follow him @therealbuntcake and @shesaidyeah on Instagram.
< CANDACE HIEBERT
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 email@example.com www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Candace loves food eating it, making it, taking about it - and is always up to try any and every culinary adventure, especially with friends. She has been active in various aspects of the food industry for the past 13 years, with a background in baking and pastry. Candace is passionate about bringing people together around food and is constantly arranging dinner parties and gatherings with delicious meals at the centre.
Book now for New Year’s Eve 2019!
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escoba.ca 624 8th Ave SW 403-474-4829
Salutes Congratulations to the winners of Canada’s Great Kitchen Party Edmonton: Doreen Prei of Zinc Restaurant took bronze, Edmonton Convention Centre’s Serge Belair won silver, and JP Dublado, of River Cree Resort and Casino, took the top slot.
Calgary’s Sultan’s Tent is celebrating 30 years of serving upscale Moroccan food. From the original 17th Avenue SW spot, they moved to their current 14th Street SW location 13 years ago. Congrats to chef Houssine Ismaili, on maintaining its success!
River Café has welcomed back Ross Bowles as Head Chef after two years of culinary travels. Chef Bowles had worked with Matthias Fong at the restaurant, embracing their ‘how local can we be?’ philosophy, and rising to sous chef before his travels.
and Shout Outs… Building on the success of its partnership with Uber Eats in the US, OpenTable has expanded its offering to Canada through the newly updated iOS app. If you’re visiting a restaurant page on the app, you’ll now see a “Get it delivered” button! Edmonton has a new French-inspired brasserie. Half a chef-driven cocktail lounge and half Parisian café, Brasserie Bardot is part of the Mayfield Inn and Violino’s Ristorante family, and occupies the ex-Manor Café house on 125 Street NW. Now renovated, Brasserie Bardot has kept the charm of this historic home with the original woodwork and fireplace, and seats 80+ people on two levels. We’re coming for Chef Shariq Naujeer’s notable French onion soup and the 3-course fondue dinner, although… unlimited frites with your entrees! Closed Sundays.
Sea Change beer on tap, with an expanded cocktail menu and new menu items. Open daily, 7 am–2:45 pm.
Craft Beer Market
Less than a year after opening their first Edmonton location, OEB are already expanding, bringing their trademark poutine bowls and signature bennies to 124 Street. This 60-seat eatery includes an 8-seat Chef's Table where you can watch the culinary team in action, a full-service bar featuring local
Craft Beer Market has reopened its 10th Avenue SW location after an extensive twomonth renovation. The second floor is now open and accessible, and features two turf bocce courts and a cornhole board - as well as a cocktail camper bar! There are new tables and chairs, more comfortable seating, and screens for viewing sports and events. Look out for new food and drink options too. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Calgary’s two giants of Asian food have teamed up to open Greenfish in Avenida Food Hall. Chef Darren MacLean (Shokunin and Netflix's Final Table) has partnered with Chef Duncan Ly (Foreign Concept) to offer handmade sushi using Ocean Wise approved green-listed fish, with a long term goal to support ocean clean up, end fishery poaching, and protect global coral reefs and endangered species. Treat yourself to a shared omakase box, which explains the Greenfish story and
the fish, and includes pickles and instructions. Thursday-Sunday 11 am-8 pm. Calgary’s popular PZA Parlour has opened a second location in Cochrane! Drawing on over 40 years of family tradition (think Stromboli Inn and Villa Firenze), 3rd generation Tony Nicastro is branching out. 11 traditional pizzas are on offer and 11 creative PZAs, including “PEI Wedding Pizza” with butter poached lobster, roasted potato coins and charred corn; “The Rodeo” starring PZA’s slow braised Alberta beef ribs – all with a choice of 10 or 16-inch, and gluten free (10-inch). Open daily 11 am–10 pm. Mélo Eatery’s name is from the French “méli-mélo” - dishes of contrasting, but well-matched textures and flavours. And it’s Duncan Ly’s new restaurant! In the ex-Avec location on 11 Avenue SW, Ly has refreshed the look, and with chefs Jay Magnaye (Foreign Concept) and Jose Battad (Oxbow), put their own delicious stamp on French dishes such as duck confit and steak frites with brandy peppercorn sauce. At lunchtime you’ll find their take on fish and chips (with the BEST chips!), a selection of salads, a Mélo burger and more. Closed Sundays.
:: Cu lin aire Vin e & Din e Se ries :: Join us for fun and delicious Vine & Dine evenings this autumn with your friends and family, or for your company’s Holiday party - or book your own private Vine & Dine for your organisation’s holiday celebrations!
Nights and Weekends Calgary’s Nights and Weekends are leaders in pop-ups, partnering with existing restaurants to use their space when they’re closed. After 10 months at Meat & Bread, they’ve now moved to Shiki Menya, and embraced the fun brand both aesthetically and culinarily. Head chef Nick Berenyi’s small menu features simple yet elegant plates with elevated ingredients, based upon Japanese drinking food, and they justifiably pride themselves on a tight cocktail program and an ever-changing natural wine list. Open Thursday-Saturday from 5:30pm. HHF stands for Hart Healthy Food, a new casual eatery from Alex Hart (Bret Hart’s daughter). She was inspired by the large Sunday dinners at her grandfather, Stu Hart’s house, which were filled with everyone from local politicians to real life giants and dancing bears! On 5 Street SE in the East Village, HHF is in the old BJ’s Gym location, serving up healthy and wholesome plates, all made in-house by chef Sherin Samuel and his team, with GM Steve Palacios looking after the front of house. Tuesday-Friday 9-7 pm, weekends 10 am-5 pm.
Vine & Dine, Binh Minh
Vine & Dine, Shoe & Canoe
Chateau Ste. Michelle Winemaker Dinner Escoba Bistro
Gluten-Free Holiday Vine & Dine, Heaven GF Cuisine
Wednesday November 13, Saturday 23, and Monday 25 We’re excited for our November Vine & Dines at this cosy restaurant for a 6-course pairing dinner of delicious modern Vietnamese dishes and superb service! $78.75 ++
Wednesday November 20 An evening with Washington State’s most prestigious winery, and their most premium offerings are paired with a superb 6-course dinner at Escoba! $92.50++
Réva Winemaker Dinner Bonterra Trattoria
Wednesday November 27 Réva is one of NW Italy’s most respected wineries, and we’re enjoying their ultra premium Barolos and Barberas with a wonderful 4-course meal at Bonterra. $107.95++
Christmas in Italy Bonterra Trattoria
Monday December 2 Christmas is always special in the romantic wine room upstairs at Bonterra. A sparkling reception is followed by an indulgent four course premium pairing meal. $107.95++
Holiday Celebration Pairing Dinner, Thai-Sa-On
Hart Healthy Food
Wednesday December 4 Join us for this one-off evening when we’ll enjoy a special meal of 5 delicious courses of Thai-Sa-on’s impeccable cuisine ~ all accompanied by superb pairings! $87.50++
Friday December 6, Friday 13, and Thursday 19 There’s a choice of 3 nights for our 6-course Canadiana pairing dinner at the new Shoe & Canoe. It’s not a hotel restaurant - it’s a restaurant that happens to be in a hotel! $78.75 ++
Wednesday December 11 Heaven Artisan GF Cuisine is a 100% gluten-free restaurant - but you don’t have to be gluten-free to enjoy it! Join us for six flavourful and hearty pairing courses at this little gem. $78.75 ++
Going Wild With Brian Keating!
Monday December 9 Brian Keating is taking us on brand new adventures! A superb 6-course pairing meal awaits at Safari Grill, with Brian himself taking us to fascinating places and entertaining us with his never before seen videos and hilarious commentary! A very special evening! $97.50++
Save the dates! ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen
Fridays March 13, June 12, October 2, and November 13, 2020 Our 6-course pairing dinners at ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen all sell out well in advance, so here’s advance notice for our 2020 dates! $81.75 ++ Check out culinairemagazine.ca/events and contact firstname.lastname@example.org, 403-870-9802 to reserve your places or to arrange a private event for your friends, family, staff or co-workers.
Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM
We received an email from Mary M, who had recently shared a family dinner at Anju restaurant. “We were wowed by the Broek Acres pork shoulder. It was absolutely succulent and tender, flavourful and perfectly seasoned (to our tastes). We would so appreciate it if you could convince our new favourite restaurant to part with their recipe. Keep up the good work with this magazine that keeps us cooking and dining local,” she wrote. How could we resist! Many thanks to Chef Roy Oh for generously sharing this delicious recipe. If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!
Broek Acres Spicy Pork Shoulder (Jeyuk Bokkeum)
800 g pork shoulder butt, sliced thin 2 Tbs (30 mL) cooking oil 150 g each red and green cabbage, julienned ½ onion, julienned 100 g garlic stems, cut into 5 cm pieces 100 g carrot, julienned To taste soy sauce and pepper 1 green onion, chopped (garnish) Mixed sesame seeds (garnish)
¼ Asian pear ½ yellow onion, blended 3 cloves garlic 2 Tbs minced ginger 3 Tbs (45 mL) soy sauce 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey (or sugar) 1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil 4 Tbs (60 mL) gochujang (red chili paste) 1 Tbs (15 mL) gochugaru (chili powder) 2 Tbs (30 mL) white vinegar
8 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
1. Mix marinade ingredients and add pork, let sit for 8 hours or overnight. 2. Add oil to a wok and heat over high heat. When the oil is just reaching its smoke point, add the pork and stir-fry until half cooked. 3. Add in all the vegetables except the green onion, and stir-fry until pork is fully cooked. 4. Season with soy and pepper to taste. 5. Garnish with green onions and sesame seeds. Serve with steamed rice and kimchi.
How to Cook Everything, Simple Recipes for Great Food By Mark Bittman, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt $52
by TOM FIRTH
This is the completely revised, 20th anniversary edition, but what is most striking is the ease by which dishes and ingredients are explained, including easy variants and tips for success. This book covers the basics and some relatively advanced dishes, and manages to be neither condescending nor over the top with lingo or techniques for the most advanced of home chefs.
It is far too easy to think that we know “everything” we need to know for our home cooking adventures – unless it’s a new celebrity chef’s book or some hot, new method or ingredient (I’m looking at you Insta-pot cookbook), so its always good to keep an open mind.
Well-organized, like most compendium-style cookbooks, with sections on appetizers and soups, vegetables and pastas, meats, breads, and desserts, and well balanced with classic North American style dishes, there are also sufficient nods to other cultures with Latin and South American, Asian, and Indian dishes covered in depth and demystified. From Zucchini Pancakes (p.343) to roast leg of lamb (p.709) and corn bread (p.769), all are covered with variants but also manage to keep it simple, and provide tips that will
help your best efforts be a success. Excellent photography, though used sparingly, is peppered throughout, and a number of well-crafted illustrations explain difficult procedures or techniques that might mystify some cooks. I took the liberty of comparing a number of staple recipes I use at home with Bittman’s recipes and found a number of dishes that offer potential timesaving ideas as well as interesting options for refreshing a dish I’ve made perhaps too many times. Will this be your new go-to guide? It would be an excellent guide for anyone with a new or recent cook in the family or for making meal preparation a family affair.
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.
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Chefs' Tips by ANNA BROOKS photography by DONG KIM
Game Day Snacks
Food is the most important part of any sporting event (okay, beer is pretty important too), and since Calgary is hosting the 2019 Grey Cup, we thought it was the perfect time to sniff out some of the best game day snacks. If you’ve hosted an inevitably rowdy crowd of football fans before, you know it’s no fun being stuck in the kitchen cooking while everyone’s screaming at (or ignoring) the TV. This month, we chatted with four local chefs about some easy family-style dishes you can make ahead of time so you can enjoy yourself on game day. You don’t need a special occasion to whip out your slow cooker, but for Kosta Galanos, Executive Chef at Smoke N Fusion in Calgary, there’s no better time than a chilly November Grey Cup Sunday. “When I think of a football party, I automatically think of something like chili because it’s cold out,” says chef Galanos. “If I’m hosting, I do something like pulled pork or chicken wings – things that go with beer.”
He says dishes like pulled pork and slow cooked brisket make for a perfect shareable game day meal, and all the prep work can be done the day before. All you need to do is toss your ingredients in the night before, and let your cooker do the rest!
Slow Cooker Dr. Pepper Braised Pulled Pork 2¼ kg pork shoulder 3 Tbs garlic powder 3 Tbs onion powder 2 Tbs paprika 1 tsp cayenne pepper (optional) 2 cups (500 mL) Dr. Pepper
1. Mix all spices together well in a bowl. 2. Rub pork shoulder generously with spice mixture. 3. Put pork in your slow cooker. Add Dr. Pepper. 4. Turn slow cooker on low, and leave for 7 to 8 hours (or your preferred cooking time). 5. Once pork is cooked, use a fork to
6. Serve on its own, on buns, or with your favourite side dish.
10 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
Try it at home and wow your guests – Ducharme’s recipe for avocado bruschetta is sure to be a touchdown!
4. Lightly brush each piece of bread with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.
approximately 10-15 minutes or until golden brown.
2 ripe avocados, diced ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil 4 roma tomatoes, seeds removed and roughly diced ¼ red onion, finely diced 1 garlic clove, minced ¼ cup feta cheese, finely crumbled 2 Tbs fresh basil, chopped 2 Tbs fresh parsley, chopped ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper Cherry tomatoes for garnish (optional)
6. Once the crostinis cool, cut garlic clove in
Daniel Ducharme, chef and owner of Riverbank Bistro in St. Albert, says his go-to dishes for sporting events or parties are ones that require minimal ingredients, or that can be prepped the day before, like slow cooker chili or hot layered dip. He says a new customer favourite at the restaurant is their avocado bruschetta. A perfect starter for any crowd, this dish is super easy to make and unlike some traditional sporting snacks (aka cheese dip out of a jar) it’s healthy, too. “It’s a very versatile dish. You can put the bruschetta on bread, on top of chili, or even on top of eggs the next day for breakfast,” says Ducharme. “It also works great as a dip instead of regular guacamole, and works well as a burger or taco topping.”
1 French baguette 1 garlic clove Olive oil as needed To taste salt and pepper
1. Gently mix avocados and olive oil in a large mixing bowl (the more gently you mix will ensure the avocados are coated with oil and remain as individual pieces.) 2. Add remaining ingredients & fold through. 3. Preheat oven to 350º F. Slice baguette into thick rounds and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
5. Place baking sheet in oven, and bake for
half and rub lightly on each piece.
7. Spoon a heaping scoop of the bruschetta mixture on each crostini, and garnish with a halved cherry tomato.
For whatever reason, sporting events seem to be all about the meat, but Andrew Fung, chef at XIX Nineteen in Edmonton, suggests some vegetarian finger foods that even the most carnivorous Grey Cup goer will enjoy. Slow cooker veggie stew, layered bean and cheese dips, and homemade spinach dip with warm chips are just a few of his recommendations that can be made the day before, or need no maintenance on the day.
“I personally like to make something fresh that’s not too complicated,” Fung says. “I love grilling shishito peppers drizzled with ponzu sauce – it’s simple and delicious!” If you’re not ready to brave the barbecue, try Fung’s veggie-friendly recipe for potatoes with a tangy garlic dressing.
Local Potatoes with Roasted Garlic Verde Dressing Serves 5
1½ kg or six large potatoes ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1½ tsp kosher salt 1 tsp black pepper For garlic dressing: 1 cup oven-dried kale 1 cup (250 mL) canola oil 75 mL (1/3 cup) grainy Dijon mustard
75 mL (1/3 cup) plain Dijon mustard ½ cup plus 2 Tbs (150 mL) lemon juice ½ cup parsley, chopped 1 head (roughly 11 cloves) roasted garlic, chopped 2 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper
1. Preheat oven to 375º F. 2. Blend all ingredients for garlic dressing together in a hand blender. 3. Cut potatoes into quarters or smaller bitesized pieces, and then toss in olive oil, salt, and pepper. 4. Roast potatoes in the oven for 30-40 minutes, or until done (you should be able to easily pierce potatoes with a fork). 5. Drizzle garlic dressing on top and serve.
12 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
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Best Ever Barbecued Ribs Serves 5
2 racks of beef or pork ribs 1 cup (250 mL) chicken broth 2 Tbs (30 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) Worcestershire sauce 1 cup (250 mL) of your favourite barbecue sauce
For dry rub:
¼ cup brown sugar 2 Tbs chili powder ½ tsp cayenne 1 tsp garlic powder 1 tsp onion powder 1 tsp dry mustard Salt and pepper to taste
1. Mix all dry rub ingredients together. Ryan McDonald, executive chef at the new Urban Fare grocery store in Calgary, says his favourite method for precooking anything is sous vide style. If you don’t know what sous vide cooking is, it involves sealing whatever you’re making in a plastic pouch and letting it slowly cook in a temperature-controlled water bath. Not only does sous vide ensure more even cooking, but the vacuum sealed food can last weeks (even months) after it’s cooked. “Sous vide is a great cooking method that’s gaining traction again,” he says. “You can cook almost anything in a bag. It’s very much like using a slow cooker, except this method keeps in all the flavour and nutrition.” The best ribs McDonald says he ever made were done sous-vide style, and cooked low and slow for 48 hours. You can sous vide ribs, chicken wings, and whatever else you can dream up well in advance without the worry of food going bad or losing its flavour – McDonald says sous vide lamb shanks can last for almost a year! If you’re not quite ready to try sous vide at home, McDonald’s delicious rib recipe below comes out perfectly made in the oven as well. 14 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
2. Remove silver skin from back of ribs. Rub mixed spices generously over ribs. Cover ribs and place in your refrigerator overnight (if in a hurry, let sit for minimum of 1 hour). 3. Preheat oven to 250º F. 4. Mix broth, apple cider vinegar, and
Worcestershire sauce together in a roasting pan. Add ribs and cover tightly. Bake for about 2 hours, and remove ribs from pan.
5. Pour leftover liquid into a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Lower to a simmer and reduce to about half. Add barbecue sauce. 6. Preheat barbecue to medium-high. Put ribs on grill and cook for about 5 minutes per side, until slightly charred. Cut ribs in between the bones, and toss in sauce.
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Beer Really Does Make the World Go ‘Round by DAVID NUTTALL
While you’ve probably been enjoying many of the local beers the past few years, one almost forgets the great selection of foreign beers Albertans have access to. Beers from the UK, USA, Germany, and Belgium are probably the most popular, but did you know there are beers from over 40 other countries available here as well? That’s one of the largest selections available anywhere in North America. It wasn’t always this way. Back in the dark ages of government-run stores (pre 1993) you were lucky to find a handful of countries represented on beer shelves (no cold rooms back then either), and usually only a couple of brands from each country at that. When the stores transitioned into private hands, the number of import agencies exploded and the beer selection (as well as that of spirits and wine) grew along with them from less than 100 products in the 1990s to over 6,400 today.
That original smattering of countries grew to represent every continent that has breweries, showcasing beers never seen here before. Because the grains used as the base malt in beer can change from location to location as dictated by climate (and recipes), the beer can vary too. Barley and wheat are the main grains in temperate climates, while rice (Asia), corn (Mexico and South America), and millet, buckwheat, and sorghum (Africa) dominate other regions - sometimes in combination with barley, sometimes not. That is why these beers, while brewed in similar styles to European brews, can taste different. In addition, hops are not grown commercially in many countries (the top 5 hop producing counties are responsible for 96 percent of the world’s production), so most beers from countries outside Europe and North America are less bitter, resulting in a preponderance of lighter lagers. They are frequently yellowish
16 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
in colour, although amber and dark beers can be found. Note that most of these beers come from the very definition of “Big Breweries”, several who have a near monopoly in their countries, and some even have facilities in multiple countries. Many of these breweries are also wholly or partly owned by giant brewing interests such as Heineken, SAB Miller, or Diageo, who distribute these beers worldwide. Even though craft breweries are starting to appear in more countries around the world, most of their product stays in their borders, as their capacity for export is minimal. Almost all these beers below are straw to gold coloured lagers except where noted. Most are around 5% ABV, and are easily found in Alberta.
Red Horse, Vietnam/Philippines This is an oriental version of malt liquor, albeit more drinkable than North American versions. Coming in at 8% ABV, it pretty much is a malt monster, but has a very pleasant caramel flavour and slight hop bitterness. CSPC +735839, $3-4.
Asahi Dark, Japan Founded in 1889, Asahi brews all its beer in Japan, unlike many of its countryâ€™s competitors who have built or acquired breweries to brew their product elsewhere. A schwarzbier brewed with rice, maize, and three different roasted malts that give the beer a subtle coffee flavour. CSPC +622398, 6 pack bottles $15-17.
Taj Mahal, India Brewed with their own malt and imported Saaz hops, its light, refreshing flavour makes it popular in Indian restaurants, where it pairs especially well with curry dishes. CSPC +745665, 330 mL $3-4.
Tusker, Kenya Using locally sourced barley, cornstarch, and sugar, this is a light lager with a slightly sweet taste. Lighter body and lower in alcohol at 4.2% ABV. CSPC +710245, $5-6.
Singha, Thailand Unusual for an Asian beer in that it is made with 100% barley and uses German and Czech hops. The result is a well-balanced, slightly hoppy German style lager that would not be out of place in Europe. CSPC +676395, 6 pack bottles $18-20.
Dragon Stout, Jamaica Yes, they do brew ales in other countries. Tropical countries, especially in Africa and the Caribbean, love stouts. Slightly sweet (thanks to added sugar) and at 7.5% ABV, this is a classic Foreign Extra Stout. CSPC +805452, 6 pack bottles $16-18.
San Miguel Pale Pilsner, Philippines Opened in Manila in 1890, San Miguel was the first brewery in Southeast Asia. The breweryâ€™s main beer has a bit more welcomed bitterness than most standard lagers. CSPC +472738, 6 pack bottles $17-19.
Fiji Bitter, Fiji Along with Fiji Gold, these are the beers of the islands. Crisp, with somewhat of a sweet finish, it tastes like many mass-produced lagers found in every country. CSPC +349125, $4-5.
Casa Premium, Morocco Sometimes called Casablanca, it is part of the Castel Group, a French beverage company which dominates the African beer market. Another simple, easy drinking light lager made for hot weather. CSPC +809420, $4.
Tiger, Singapore Made with malt and sucrose, this lager is a popular beer in Asian restaurants everywhere. It is a bit more malty, full bodied, and bitter than the other beers listed here. CSPC +537258, $3-4.
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
Heat Up The Kitchen with Warming Roasts Story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY
As the cool weather starts to creep in, we move from warm sweaters to winter coats and the heat starts to come on in our homes at night; it’s time to add some deep, rich, warming spices to our meals. These flavourful roasts will keep you feeling the heat all winter long. Coriander and Cumin Roast Chicken
Serves 4 – 6, makes ½ cup butter mixture 1-1¾ kg whole chicken ½ bunch parsley 5 cloves garlic 1 tsp coriander
1 tsp cumin ½ tsp fennel seeds 1 lemon zest and juice 1 tsp salt ½ cup (125 g) butter, softened Preheat oven to 375º F.
18 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
1. Rinse chicken and pat dry. 2. Purée parsley and garlic in a food processor. Add coriander, cumin, fennel seeds, zest of lemon and half the juice, salt, and purée. 3. Add butter and purée to combine. Rub over chicken and underneath the skin. Place half a lemon in the cavity of the bird. Tie the 2 drumsticks together. 4. Place on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast
approximately 1 hour 15 minutes or until juices run clear. Note: To shorten the roasting time, spatchcock or cut the chicken into individual pieces.
Crispy Roast Smash Potatoes Serves 4
1 kg fingerling potatoes 2 Tbs coriander and cumin butter 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil 1 tsp salt
1. Parboil potatoes, about 20 minutes. Drain, remove from pot. 2. Smash each potato with the bottom of a
glass, place on a baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, butter mixture and salt.
3. Roast at 450º F for 15 minutes. Harissa Style Spiced Roast Leg of Lamb Serves 4 – 6, makes about 1½ cup harissa-style paste
No need to use a meat thermometer for this dish. This leg of lamb is fail-proof. It’s cooked over a longer period of time until the meat is fork tender leaving all the spices imbedded in the meat. 1 dried chipotle chili 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp caraway seeds 3 cloves garlic ¼ bunch parsley, stems removed 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper 1 lemon (zest and juice) ¾ cup roasted red peppers 1–1¼ kg boneless leg of lamb
4. Rinse lamb leg and pat dry. Cut into
pieces that fit in your pan.
5. Rub lamb with sauce and place fat side up in pan. Pour 2½ cups (625 mL) water around the meat and seal with foil. Cook in oven for 3 hours basting every half hour after the first hour of cooking. Add more water if needed. 6. Remove foil and pull apart lamb. Increase oven to 400º F. Place lamb back in oven for 5-10 minutes until crispy. Jerk Roast Pork
Serves 6-8, makes ¾ cup jerk paste
1. Boil 2 cups water (500 mL) and pour over dried chili to soften, about 1 hour (or use chili in adobo sauce).
1-1½ kg pork rib end of loin roast 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper 1 tsp cinnamon ¼ bunch parsley, stems removed 2 Tbs + 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves 4 whole green onions 2 tsp cumin 1 small onion, rough chop 4 cloves garlic, peeled 2 cm ginger, peeled 1 tsp allspice 1½ Tbs coconut sugar ¼ tsp clove 2 tsp coriander 1 Tbs (15 mL) vinegar To taste scotch bonnet pepper (or habanero)
2. Toast cumin, coriander and caraway seeds.
Preheat oven to 350º F.
3. Pulse dry ingredients, garlic and parsley, in a food processor until smooth and add lemon zest plus a quarter of the juice, as well as the roasted red peppers. Purée until smooth. Taste and adjust spice to your preference.
1. Rinse pork and pat dry.
Preheat oven to 325º F.
2. Purée remaining ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Taste and adjust to your preference.
3. Rub paste all over pork. Place on a rack
in a roasting pan and roast until a meat thermometer measures to your desired doneness*.
*Note: Pork roasts are safe to eat when the internal temperature reaches 145º F. At this temperature, the pork is still slightly pink in the centre. As the rib end of a loin roast is naturally fattier, you can cook to 160º F if desired. Your roast will continue cooking after it is removed from the oven so “undercooking” between 5 and 10º F below your target internal temperature will produce a perfectly cooked roast after resting. A food thermometer is the only sure way to determine the correct degree of doneness for your loin roast.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019 19
Yakking Around: Alberta Ranchers Expand into the Yak Market by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography courtesy Fleet Yaks
Alberta produces a lot of different proteins. Obviously we have our cattle, but local ranchers are also raising pigs, chickens, turkeys, lamb, bison, elk, and even shrimp. Few of us realize, however, that Alberta also has the ideal climate for raising yak. Yak may not be a particularly well-known herd outside of yak-rich regions like Tibet, but a growing group of farmers is hoping to raise awareness of the beauty of yak meat, which is similar to beef (and yes, Alberta yak is raised primarily for meat — yak milk
isn’t a popular commodity here). Yaks are hardy animals with dense coats and little need for shelter, making them a great choice for Alberta’s cold winters. David Weber is the man behind Fleet Yaks in Castor, Alberta, which he runs on his family grain farm. When he took over the operational management of the farm from his father, Weber knew he wanted to introduce livestock to the business and after some research, he realized that yaks would be suited to the characteristics of his
20 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
land. Initially he brought on his herd of yaks as a way to support his grain crops. “The animals themselves are fairly low maintenance and independent, and hardy through the winter,” Weber says. “But I really wanted to use their grazing as a way to manage my crop rotation and as a way to diversify the way I use the land, and to try and build up the organic matter in the soil.”
Weber eventually learned that there is also a market (albeit a small one) for yak meat. He currently produces about 30 calves a year and has about 120 head of yak on his land, since they aren’t butchered until about two to three years of age. Keeping with the spirit of sustainability that led him to bring the yaks onto the farm in the first place, Fleet Yak’s animals are fed on both grass and pesticide-free grain that Weber grows on his own farm.
Alberta has the ideal climate for raising yak Weber isn’t alone in his yak endeavours; there are a growing number of upstart yak farms in Alberta. Jennifer Rath runs The Yak Ranch
Courtesy The Yak Ranch
near Caroline. She started raising yaks four years ago — she wanted to utilize the land she lives on, but the demands of her day job meant that she needed a herd that was low maintenance, and animals that were small enough so that she could handle calving on her own. She currently has about 150 yaks on her farm, including calves. Like Weber, Rath also sells meat, but she’s also diversified into selling fibre (the yak’s wool is why they are so fit for cold winters) and is also focusing on breeding animals with easy-to-handle dispositions to sell to other upstart yak farmers. “They're very diverse animals, as far as everything can be used,” Rath says. “The fibre is comparable to cashmere and is often used as a cashmere alternative. I also sell the skulls because they have very big horns on them. So I have a couple of ladies that buy the skulls and bleach them and make them into artsy items. Everything can be used, from the head to the hide to the fibre.” Going back to the meat, both Weber and Rath say that consumers who like the flavour of beef and the leanness of bison or elk should appreciate a yak steak or roast, as well as the sausage, pepperoni and jerky that Weber makes with his yak meat.
“I would say it’s between beef and elk meat, but not gamey at all,” Rath says. “It’s more delicate and kind of sweeter than beef is. It’s also juicier than bison because of the high Omega-3s in the meat.” The next challenge for ranchers like Rath and Weber will be growing the market for yak meat — which the vast majority of Albertans haven’t even tried. We’ve seen the market for bison grow over the years and while Weber doesn’t envision yak reaching those levels of popularity, he does think that there’s room for yak in Albertans’ diets. Right now both Rath and Weber are primarily selling meat off their farms to friends and friends of friends through word of mouth, but Weber is in talks to move his product into a major grocery store chain, which could be a game changer for the yak industry. “It would be great if the market expanded,” he says, noting that the market price for yak is similar to bison or local grass-fed beef. “I think there's quite a number of people who'd be interested in taking on a herd of yak. But part of the sustainability of that is ensuring that there is a demand for the meat.” Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019 21
Warm Cheeses for Cold Days by CANDACE HIEBERT photography by DANIEL BONTJE
As our winter days begin to get colder and shorter, there’s no better way to embody the Danish ideal of Raclette
Used primarily for melting, this is a semi-firm cheese with a rich earthiness. Traditionally, the wheel of cheese was held over the fire until bubbling, then scraped onto potatoes or bread. You can recreate the flavours, if not the
Hygge (coziness) than by gathering friends around a hot meal with melty cheese at its heart.
Many of this month’s cheeses may look similar, but they all have distinctive characters worth exploring.
exact experience, by gathering round a Raclette grill, where everyone melts their own individual portions of cheese. Boil some potatoes and slice up some crusty country bread, and accompany with cornichons.
This buttery, nutty cheese is aged in the damp caves of the Alps, and there is a range of flavour profiles to discover based on how long the cheese has been aged. A younger comte will have more gentle, sweet flavours,
This aggressively scented washed-rind cheese is so pungent that it is banned on French public transportation! If you are courageous enough to explore past the smelly outside, you will discover
while it’s more aged counterpart can have an intense edge, along with amino acid crystals to give the cheese a bit of crunch. Use this cheese to top a vegetable tart or galette for a simple, delicious meal.
Made using the same traditional methods that have been documented for over 700 years, Appenzeller cheese has a unique tangy flavour due to the top-secret herbal brine
Cave-Aged Gruyere a luxuriously creamy centre with earthy, mushroomy notes. No need to overthink it – tear off chunks of baguette to eat by the fire with your Epoisses, and relax into its flavours.
All cheeses provided for photography and sampling by Worldwide Specialty Foods Ltd. Candace is passionate about food – eating it, making it, and talking about it - and is up to try any and all new culinary experiences, especially with friends.
22 22 Alberta's Alberta'sfreshest freshestfood food&&beverage beveragemagazine magazine--November November2019 2019
Aged in the caverns of Kaltbach near Lucerne, Cave Aged Gruyere is a hard cows milk cheese with a strong, smooth flavour. It is a versatile cheese and
that is rubbed onto the aging cheeses by hand. Use this cheese as the base for your next fondue, with a little white wine and freshly grated nutmeg.
its nutty flavour makes it a terrific addition to a cheese board, while its easy melting qualities make it just the thing to liven up a bowl of hot French onion soup.
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Spice it Up: Fondue Story and photography by MALLORY FRAYN
Fondue; it’s a popular option during the holidays that somehow falls by the wayside throughout the rest of the year. But who says you need a celebration to justify dipping bread and other goodies into cheese or chocolate? These ideas can help you to incorporate fondue, both savoury and sweet, into your meal plan any night of the week.
Different types of liquid
Whether you’re working with cheese or chocolate, you need something to help start the melting process. With cheese fondue, that typically means a dry white wine, while with chocolate fondue, heavy cream is the
base that helps to get the party started. However, there’s no reason that you can’t swap out these liquids for substitutable alternatives. You could easily use beer, or even a dry cider for cheese fondue. The key is that whatever you use is more on the acidic side, because citric and tartaric acids help to prevent cheese fondue from splitting. So if you choose a liquid that is less acid, be sure to add a squeeze of lemon juice to the works to help prevent this issue.
24 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
With chocolate fondue, other high-fat liquids can be used in place of heavy cream. For those looking for a dairy-free alternative, coconut milk is a great go-to. If you’re looking to add some tang to your fondue, you could always substitute in a couple of tablespoons of sour cream or crème fraiche for some of the heavy cream that your recipe calls for.
Different cheeses and chocolates
It should come as no surprise that the main ingredients in cheese and chocolate fondue are cheese and chocolate, respectively. However, what is surprising is the lack of variety in which cheese and chocolate is typically used.
For cheese fondue, gruyere and emmenthal are staples, however there’s no reason why you can’t use another good melting cheese instead. Spanish fontina is wonderfully buttery, while adding a moderate amount of blue cheese to finish will add a spicy kick to traditional fondue. If you’re opting for beer instead of wine, a sharp cheddar or Gouda will make a fondue somewhat reminiscent of beer cheese (and don’t forget the pretzels for dipping). For chocolate fondue, the best advice we can give is to not cheap out on the chocolate. Given that the only two ingredients are chocolate and cream, if you don’t go for the good stuff, it can be quite apparent. Try and avoid anything that’s loaded with sugar and other additives, but rather look for chocolate that is predominantly cacao. Alberta bean-to-bar producers like Kin + Pod, Jacek, and Choklat, are great places to start. Plus if you select chocolates from multiple origins, you can taste test their resulting fondues side by side to see what you like best!
Add in extra flavourings
Finally, you can always add a twist to your fondue by playing with additional flavours. The easiest way to do this is to infuse the liquid, wine or cream, with the ingredients of
your choice. This way you don’t end up with any bits and pieces of herbs or spices in the fondue itself. For example, you could infuse wine for cheese fondue with shallots, citrus zest, and herbs, and then strain these ingredients out before adding in the cheese. Same goes with the cream in chocolate fondue, except that you’d want to opt for sweeter infusions, such as tea, coffee, lavender, or simply a fresh vanilla or tonka bean.
Welsh Rarebit Fondue Yield: 2 cups
2 Tbs butter 2 Tbs all-purpose flour 1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustard 4-5 drops of Worcestershire sauce ½ cup (125mL) porter beer (for local beer I’d suggest Village Blacksmith) ¾ cup (180 mL) heavy cream 1½ cups aged cheddar cheese, shredded To taste dried Aleppo pepper To taste salt and pepper Cubed pumpernickel rye bread Veggies of your choice (broccoli, cauliflower, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms)
1. Melt butter in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Whisk in flour and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly.
2. Add in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce and whisk until smooth. Then gradually pour in the porter, whisking constantly. Finally, whisk in the cream. 3. Bring this mixture to a simmer until it thickens, similar to making a béchamel sauce or roux-based gravy. Then whisk in the cheese until melted. 4. Finally taste and adjust seasoning with
salt, pepper, and Aleppo. Serve as you would traditional cheese fondue, with bread and a variety of vegetables.
To leave the fondue preparation to the experts, check out these restaurants across the province: - - - - - - - -
The Grizzly House (Banff) The Waldhaus (Banff) Moonlight & Eli (Calgary) The Living Room (Calgary) Monki Bistro (Calgary) The Melting Pot (Edmonton) Brasserie Bardot (Edmonton) Cacao 70 (Calgary and Edmonton)
Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019 25
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International Styles of BBQ in Alberta by CARMEN CHENG
We may be going into the colder season when backyard grills go into hibernation, but hearty, smoky, barbecued meat is popular year round.
When we think of barbecue, we tend to think of American-style barbecue brisket or pork shoulder, smoked low and slow. Over the past few years, we have seen a rise in this style of barbecue in Alberta. Calgary’s Hayden Block (1136 Kensington Rd NW, Calgary) opened in 2016. Owner Jared Kichula was drawn to Texas barbecue, which is the menu's focus at Hayden Block and its sister restaurant in Airdrie, Main Street BBQ (505 Main St S #304, Airdrie). Hayden Block was popular right from the get-go with its trays of Texas style brisket, pulled pork, smoked turkey, pork spare ribs, and vast whiskey offering. The group has now
28 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
introduced Tennessee style barbecue with its latest smokehouse on 17th Ave, Comery Block (638 17 Ave SW, Calgary). At Comery Block, the brisket is still the same as Hayden Block’s well-loved version, seasoned simply to let the beef shine. Brisket, pulled pork, turkey, and ribs remain the mainstay of the Comery Block menu, and meat quality is kept high across all three smokehouses. With Tennessee style BBQ though, the wood, seasonings, and side dishes differ. Tennessee rubs contain more chili peppers, and sauces are used more liberally. As an example, Comery Block’s popular pulled pork is mopped with sauce as it is cooked.
Brisket and pork are smoked overnight for up to 14 to 16 hours; the result can be affected by time and changing temperatures in the climate. Chef Craig Ramsay and team have to navigate the balance of art and science in the smoking process. Although BBQ purists will tell you that the term barbecue should only be reserved for low and slow cooking, globally this term is often used to refer to the act of cooking meat over fire or smoke. There’s something irresistible about cooking meat over fire, evidenced by the many ways “barbecue” is interpreted around the world.
BBQ is often used to refer to the act of cooking meat over fire or smoke
Stephen Szostak, owner of Smoke N Fusion (12100 Macleod Trail #500, Calgary) understands this well. The concept of Smoke N Fusion is to create a unique experience through offering a diverse menu that uses internationally inspired brines, cures, and marinades for meats, which are then smoked commercially and finished on a gas grill. Items are served ‘Family Style’ - this means that everything comes out on platters and guests pass the dishes around the table. Think Korean Marinated House-Smoked Beef Ribs; Jerk Chicken, Gyros style Lamb, and their exotic “Hunter Roo”, kangaroo loin meat with a red wine hunter sauce.
ock When it comes to international BBQ, Albertans have become familiar with Korean-style BBQ, where patrons grill meat at their tables. We’ve listed a few other styles of global barbecue that you can find in this diverse province.
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Parts of East Africa are influenced by different cultures, resulting in a melting pot of ingredients, spices, and cooking techniques. Dishes tend to have a strong punch of flavour. Safari Grill (255 28 St SE #100, Calgary) serves up popular Tanzanian charcoal grilled barbecue, using traditional Tanzanian marinades rich with the flavours of curry, red pepper, ginger, and garlic. The addition of lemon, tomatoes, or green papaya serves to tenderize the meat. Meat, seafood, and vegetables are grilled over charcoal for a smoky flavour. Safari Grill’s offerings of barbecued meat are known as Nyama Choma, such as their popular BBQ Short Ribs. Grilled skewers of meat are called Mishkaki, and include “Mishkaki Ya Kamba”, BBQ skewers of shrimp.
Filipino style cuisine is heating up in Edmonton. Filipino BBQ meat or seafood is generally skewered and cooked over charcoal (inasal). The uniqueness of Filipino BBQ is in the layers of flavour added to meats from the marinades and glazes.
Each restaurant might have their own concoctions but generally Filipino marinades are both savoury and sweet, and may include soy sauce, annatto oil, banana ketchup, or calamansi juice. 7-Up or Sprite may be used as a unique way to tenderize meat. Grilled meats may be dipped in a spicy vinegar to balance out the savoury-sweet flavours. Since Kanto 98 St Eatery (10636 98 St NW, Edmonton) opened in 2018, their robust menu has included a BBQ section with charcoal grilled meats including: longganisa (sweet sausage), and skewers of chicken, pork, and beef. The must-order dish at Kanto 98 St. is the Liempo. Succulent pork belly is simmered in an intense sauce of soy sauce, pineapple juice, garlic, and bay leaves. The Liempo is vacuum-sealed and cooked sous vide at a low temperature for 8 hours before being glazed with a house-made banana ketchup, and finished on a charcoal grill. When Filistix first launched their food truck in 2008, they named their truck as a nod to "Fili"pino BBQ "stix", serving only BBQ as a way to introduce Filipino street food to Edmonton. Their menu diversified to include popular dishes like Chicken Adobo and South
Filistix Pacific Coconut Chicken, which they dished out at their University of Alberta location. With the recent opening of their Filistix Downtown restaurant (10621 100 Ave NW, Edmonton), they are able to expand their menu and have brought back some BBQ skewers from their roots. Filistix uses coconut charcoal to cook their meats. The coconut shells provide a consistent heat and clean burn, imparting a subtle hint of smoke. Using coconut shells is also a sustainable way to grill.
Kanto 30 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
When you visit Filistix make sure to try the lemongrass chicken thighs (chicken inasal) or lemongrass pork chop (pork inasal). Vegetable lovers will want to try the grilled shishito pepper or king oyster mushroom skewers.
Cantonese Style BBQ “Siu Lap”
What we often think of as traditional Chinese BBQ is Cantonese style grilled meat, also known as “Siu Lap”, the word “siu” means “to grill”, and the word “lap” means “marinated”. Chinese BBQ meats that Albertans may be most familiar with include: Char Siu (BBQ Pork), Crispy Skinned Roasted Pork Belly, and BBQ Duck. The process of making BBQ duck requires a lot of patience and can be intimidating for many cooks. Chefs at traditional Chinese BBQ restaurants employ different techniques over days to get a crispy skinned, succulent BBQ Duck.
Chefs will often blanche the duck multiple times in water, spices, and oil over the course of several days. The duck is air-dried in between to maintain the crispy skin. All this happens before the duck is actually roasted. Sun’s BBQ Restaurant (1423 Centre St N, Calgary) employs traditional seasoning and cooking techniques for their BBQ meats. Each type of meat is cooked at a different temperature for a specific duration in a custom-built rotisserie style oven. Their BBQ duck is popular with customers and often sells out by early evening. Sun’s trained chefs use traditional methods to cook their BBQ Duck, looking for the right colouring and shine to ensure that their meats are cooked to the correct standard. BBQ meats are served traditionally here, generally over rice or with noodles in soup.
Two Penny (1213 1 St SW, Calgary) make their BBQ Duck using a process fairly similar to the traditional process above, but with a few additional modern techniques, such as brining the ducks ahead of time and cooking the meat at a lower heat and more slowly than is typical. This ensures that duck breasts can be cooked to a medium or medium rare temperature. Their BBQ duck is also served with rice and their own unique selection of garnishes including Thai basil, scallions, peanut, and chili sauce.
Chinese Grilled Meat Skewers
Chinese style grilled meat skewers are growing in popularity in Alberta. In China, grilled skewers of meat are often available from street carts or kiosks. Grilled meat is a common street food or drinking food, often enjoyed with friends late at night. Memorable Times BBQ (7500 Macleod Trail SE # 101, Calgary) is a new restaurant serving Northeastern Chinese BBQ skewers. Their chef is from Liaoning province in Northeast China and takes a lot of pride in ensuring that each skewer is seasoned specifically for that type of meat. Skewers of lamb, shrimp, beef, and even oysters are seasoned rather than marinated, and then charcoal grilled. Memorable Times imports a specific charcoal from Asia made from coconut shells. This type of charcoal is critical to ensuring they achieve an authentic smoky flavour.
Thereâ€™s something irresistible about cooking meat over fire
Two Penny 32 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
Flame Mountain BBQ (919 Centre St NW Unit C, Calgary) strives to recreate the late night street feel for their customers with graffiti-style decor and music. Their menu consists of traditional BBQ items that can be found on the streets of China, including sticks of beef, pork belly, and cuttlefish balls. They have also added some modern dishes found in China including bacon enoki mushroom skewers and hurricane potato. Flame Mountain cooks their BBQ to order using a high heat infrared grill.
Japanese BBQ - Kushiyaki or Yakitori
Japanese Yakitori is perhaps one of the better-known styles of international BBQ. Although yakitori often refers to Japanesestyle grilled skewers in North America, the word “yakitori” is meant to refer to grilled chicken and chicken offal. The term “kushiyaki” is generalized to any type of Japanese style meat skewer. Ke Charcoal Grill (1501 15th Ave SW, Calgary), serves a variety of Japanese style skewers grilled over charcoal fire to attain
a crunchy texture to the skin, and the high heat ensures the grilling process has little to no water vapour hitting the meat. In addition to the standard fare of grilled chicken thighs and wings, Ke Charcoal Grill also offers crispy grilled chicken skin (kawa) and grilled fish including mackerel and wild BC Black Cod, which is marinated in a miso sauce. Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves traveling, learning about different cuisines, and sharing her food adventures on social media
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All The Noods! by DIANA NG
Now that the last autumn leaves have fallen, maybe even covered in snow, and the vista is beginning to change from reds and yellows to white and grey, our palate and hunger transforms too.
Eaten as a symbol of longevity, for convenience, or together with seasonal vegetables and very little meat - as simple nourishment, noodle soup dishes have branched out and taken root in every Asian culture, coming into their own as a go-to for any occasion. Wheat, rice, buckwheat and other starches and grains; broths made from a variety of proteins, from common meats like chicken, pork, and beef to fish and kelp; condiments like soy sauce, chili oils and herb-based sauces - there are countless permutations of this fundamental genre of cuisine from every region in Asia, all reflecting the area’s own style, culture, climate and terroir.
In landlocked Gansu, a province in northwest China, you can find Lanzhou noodles. Consisting of a rich beef broth that boasts intense flavour and clarity, tender daikon radish, aromatic and spicy red chili oil, fresh herbs like coriander and green onions, and hand-pulled noodles, this dish is famous far beyond its borders. And perhaps the most recognized Cantonese noodle soup of all, even more so than beef brisket ho fun (fresh rice noodles), wonton noodle soup has been brought to every corner of the globe through trade and immigration.
34 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
The thin, springy and yellow egg noodles, paired with shrimp wontons in a broth made from pork, shrimp shells and dried flounder, is a classic dish that has been heavily adapted in different regions of different countries. And while it is easy to assemble at home, the traditional version has a unique signature flavour. In south China, Guilin rice noodle soup has brought fame to the province, second to its beautiful scenery and pungent chili sauce. Though there’s a brothless version dressed in a spiced, aromatic sauce and loaded with pickled greens, chili and peanuts, there’s also a traditional and lighter soup version made with pork and beef.
Noodle soup dishes have branched out and taken root in every Asian culture In Yunnan, the legendary “crossing the bridge” noodles are known for their flavour and story, which describes the efforts of a scholar’s wife in keeping the noodles hot on her journey to him across the bridge. Real or not, the idea of pouring a layer of hot oil over broth and rice threads is a creative and practical one.
Made globally popular by the packaged instant version, ramen is at the same time a hallmark of industrialism and tradition: commonplace and taken seriously. It has its origins in China, where hand-pulled noodles are called la mian. Whether itâ€™s shio (salt), shoyu (soy sauce), miso, or tonkotsu (pork bones), the broth is king. A proper bowl of ramen exemplifies all of the cuisineâ€™s values through its attention to detail with every element, from the choice and making of the alkaline noodles to the toppings like the jammy egg and tender cha siu, done with exactitude to ensure they complement each other and shine a light on the best ingredients in that region.
Just as popular in Japan, but maybe less so abroad compared to ramen, soba is also a staple in Japanese cuisine. Made with buckwheat and wheat, these thin noodles are served chilled with a dipping sauce in the summertime and hot in a dashi and soy broth in the winter. Much thicker than both ramen and soba, and made without alkaline water, udon is a thick wheat noodle thatâ€™s often paired with a light dashi and soy broth. The strength of the broth and the toppings (like deep-fried tofu pockets and tempura bits) depend on the region, but, like most noodle dishes, they can easily be adapted to your taste.
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Ubiquitous in most modern North American cities nowadays, pho is a popular street food in Vietnam thatâ€™s been around since the 1900s. Between the north and the south of Vietnam, the seemingly focused dish has subtle variances in its noodle, broth, toppings and condiments.
After the hot summer, Koreans switch from naengmyeon, a cold buckwheat noodle dish, to various guksu (noodle) dishes to warm up. Janchi guksu (wheat noodles in an anchovy and kelp broth, a bit like a Japanese dashi), kalguksu (wheat noodles in seafood broth), and jjamppong (wheat noodles in spicy broth) are all popular noodle soups. Where janchi guksu is mild and simply adored with mostly vegetables and egg strips, jjamppong is robust and punchy, loaded with seafood, cabbage and zucchini.
Mostly made with beef, and sometimes chicken, the clear broth of pho is generally made with simmering bones, charred aromatics like onions and ginger, and spices like anise and cinnamon. Compared to the north, pho from the south typically has a wider array of toppings, sauces and vegetables. Though pho has become almost synonymous with Vietnamese noodle soup, the rich and beefy bun bo hue should not be overlooked. The spicy noodle soup is made with lemongrass, shrimp paste and annatto seeds in addition to other spices, and both beef and pork.
Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia
In Singapore, the basic chicken noodle soup is turned into a mee soto, a comforting dish that can be found at any hawker stand. The
36 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
broth is spiced with peppercorns, coriander, garlic, galangal, turmeric, lemongrass, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, and yellow wheat noodles are topped with shredded chicken, sprouts, fresh coriander, and fried shallots. Like mee soto, laksa is easily found in Singapore, Indonesia, and Malaysia, but it is more commonly associated with Malaysian cuisine. Laksa can refer to curry laksa, made with coconut milk, or asam laksa, made with tamarind. Though all these dishes are perfect in their own way, they can mislead us into believing that there are very few plant-based options. While these soups can be topped with almost anything, the broth is often chicken, pork, beef or seafood based. Vegetarians and vegans would be delighted to know that there are traditional dishes for them beyond just substituting vegetable broth for meat-based broth. Vegetarian dashi made with shitaake mushrooms and kelp is a popular base for noodles, as is soy milk broth, often used in kongguksu, a Korean cold noodle dish, and as a variation of tonkotsu ramen.
Want to put all these theories into practice? Head to these places for a hot bowl of noodle soup! Prairie Noodle Shop, Edmonton For something fun and modern, but giving ramen the respect it deserves, try Prairie Noodle Shop. With variations like smoked gouda miso ramen and the loaded Mighty Sumo, ramen fanatics can't help but smile and enjoy. Formosa Bistro, Edmonton For comfort food outside ramen or pho, order a bowl of the sesame oil chicken or beef noodle from Formosa Bistro, showcasing Taiwanese cuisine's diversity and ability to blend a mix of Chinese, Japanese and North American cultures.
Celebrate your holiday event in style!
Nomiya, Edmonton Now with three Edmonton locations and 45 years in the culinary business, chef Jeff Chan and daughter Wing are focused on the techniques and components of traditional ramen. Calan Beef Noodle, Calgary For fresh, traditional hand-pulled Lanzhou noodles in Calgary, Calan Beef Noodle is your destination, where in addition to the clear and light beef soup, you’ll find braised beef noodle soup and numerous stir-fried noodle dishes. Carino, Calgary Calgary has no shortage of ramen spots, but for something different, try Carino. The Japanese-Italian restaurant serves a mean bowl of wagyu bolognese miso ramen.
Churrascaria & Restaurante
Chong Fat Noodle House, Calgary If you're in the mood to slurp more Southern Chinese noodles like wonton noodle soup or Chiu Chow fish ball soup, Chinatown's Chong Fat is great place to satisfy the craving. Binh Minh Kitchen, Calgary For authentic but more modern Vietnamese dishes, Binh Minh’s menu is gluten-friendly and includes a wide variety of housemade pho and bun offerings as well as vegetarian choices.
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Diana is a co-founder of EatNorth.com, freelance food writer, and digital media strategist who will eat your food when you’re not looking.
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019 37
Holiday Gift Guide As always, we really enjoy scouring our province and further afield, as well as the internet, to find ideal gifts for your food and drink loving family and friends. Here are 25 of our favourites, and we hope you enjoy them as much as we do! Cococo Ruby Raspberry Sea Salt Caramels Have you tried the new Ruby Cacao couverture yet? Cococo are handcrafting batches of their ruby raspberry caramel in big copper kettles using real cream and butter, and puréed raspberries, then coating each caramel in tart and fruity Ruby cacao, which brings out the vanilla and raspberry notes in the caramel. A dusting of pink Alea sea salt adds texture and balance. Yum, it’s our new favourite caramel! 160 pieces $28.50 at Cococo stores and CococoChocolatiers.com Duchess At Home … is a beautiful hardback book that delivers exactly what it promises – dishes that Giselle Courteau, co-founder of Edmonton’s Duchess Bake Shop, loves to make at home for her family. We love that it includes a tempting array of sweet and savoury baked foods for breakfasts, Christmas, her childhood favourites, fresh garden produce, and La Belle France. A perfect gift for Alberta bakers. Appetite by Random House $35
Park Distillery’s Exploratory Whisky Project As the Alberta market primes itself for a deluge of craft whiskies, Park is taking a different approach than most. The Exploratory Whisky Project is a variety of half and full casks, mash bills, barrels and coopers, and only released “when ready” according to Master Distiller Matthew Hendriks. Very hard to find at the moment, but limited selections are available via their newsletter and social campaigns as new casks are tapped. 375 mL $47. 38 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
Medium Rare Aprons The first customers of Calgary’s Medium Rare Chef Apparel were local chefs that loved the craftsman quality and rebellious style, and now you can dress like the best with an Old-Fashioned bibstyle, cross-back apron ($85), Henry - with soft leather straps and brass hardware ($95) or Mercantile ($70), and we’re thrilled to have a special promocode for you CulinaireApron - for 25% off at mediumrarechef.com/discount/CulinaireApron!
Holiday Gift Guide Rig Hand Bar M Whisky 2017 This is what good whisky is all about – rich and warming, with spice and toffee aromas and a robust, earthy spirit on the palate. The first craft whisky ever released in Alberta, Bar M is quite smooth, and expands into something with a pleasing kick and almost citrus finish. Fine whisky, perfect for fireplace sipping, or perhaps just on a cool evening. CSPC 798205 $89 from the distillery in Nisku.
Hammered Steel Flat Bottom Wok We’ve been keeping an eye on these hammered steel flat bottom woks from Yamada Uchidashi, in Japan, as they can sell our pretty quickly - but we also know there’s a new shipment in at Knifewear Calgary and Edmonton! Lightweight, and with a stay-cool handle, these steel woks conduct heat fast and will have your stir-fries sizzling in a jiff. $90
Herbologie Seasonal Mulling Spice It’s the perfect time for mulling, and chartered herbalist and founder of Edmonton’s Herbologie, Aga Wajda-Plytta, has developed this warming blend of rich and aromatic spices sourced directly from smallholder farms. A mix of green cardamom, pemba cloves, cinnamon bark, elephant ginger, and peppercorns, just add 2 tablespoons to a litre of your favourite wine, cider, beer, or tea, for that holiday feeling! $17 at herbologie.ca.
Check out her online store for holiday gift ideas! www.LShulba.com International award winning artist & designer Lorraine Shulba specializing in custom commissions for your home.
is...ent for the soul. artnourishm
Check out her portfolio! @BlueBugStudiosLShulbaArtistDesigner @lorraine_shulba_artist
Holiday Gift Guide
You’ve bought the equipment, now jump right in with a crash course in brewing ingredients and process. Then level up with dozens of recipes from some of today’s top craft brewers, including big names like Allagash, The Bruery, Surly, and more. All your favorite styles are here, from porter and stout to India Pale Ale and saison. While some recipes hew to tradition, others push the envelope.
Explore the history of key beer styles and try your hand at historical recipes from the 1800s! Master the use of unusual ingredients and impress your family with beers that feature honey, fruit, tea, and more! Go even further and brew from the garden! Try your hand at growing your own hops and other beer ingredients!
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THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO HOMEBREWING
Ultimate Guide to Home Brewing With the explosion of craft breweries in Alberta, a natural progression would be increasing interest in quality home brewing. Fumbling your way through the process should be a THREE CHEERS FOR MAKING thing of the past, with a number of excellent guides to improve your homemade suds. The BEER! Ultimate Guide to Home Brewing is equal parts ‘how to’ and ‘how to get started’, with a startling assortment of recipes covering a range of styles and breweries. Harvard Common Press $37
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Le Petit Marché Felt Food Calgary’s Alana Coldwell originally started hand stitching her felt food masterpieces inspired by creative play for her two small children. Now both kids are in school, she’s opened her business, Le Petit Marché, crafting these adorable items for our children too – we also love them as table centerpieces! Breakfast set $25, Fruit bowl $35, Donuts $3 each at lepetitmarcheyyc.etsy.com.
Moose Milk Cream Liqueur There’s no end of recipes for Moose Milk, a festive Canadian Military cream liqueur creation similar to the Scottish Athol Brose, and like an alcoholic eggnog. Some call for ice cream, others for heavy cream and egg yolks; some use rum and some whisky – but Sherwood Park’s Elk Island Spirits have made life easy for us and produced a really delicious, smooth and creamy version to sip slowly or to spike your holiday coffee. CSPC 816729 $37. Hand-Carved Wooden Pepper Mills Tracy Fine Products has been making unique, handcrafted items from different woods for many years, and Sean Matthews now offers up a full range of beautifully carved pens, ice cream scoops, and coffee grinders – and our personal favourites – the old-style, carved wooden black walnut and burnt elm peppermills with a handle to grind the berries. $75-$95 at tracyfineproducts.com. Ardbeg 19 Year Old Traigh Bhan Single Malt Whisky Ardbeg is perhaps the pinnacle of smoky whisky for peat fanatics. With the Traigh Bhan (pronounced Tri-Van in your best Scottish brogue), Ardbeg has created a limited annual release of an aged whisky that will vary slightly with each edition. Look for smoked fruit, saline and spice with a touch of toffee. Taste profile is decidedly…”Ardbegian” with sinuous peat character and a spicy finish. Very limited quantities, approximately $370. Zuidam Founder’s Reserve Gift Box Here’s something special for genever connoisseurs and enthusiasts – the 25-year old Founder’s Reserve from Zuidam, in the Netherlands. Aged in Olorosso sherry casks, this spectacular dram was distilled by Zuidam patriarch, Fred van Zuidam, to celebrate his 80th birthday. A limited single cask release of just 399 bottles, it’s presented in a beautiful wooden gift box and includes a genever tasting glass. CSPC 786630 500 mL $240-$270.
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Holiday Gift Guide Vinglacé Wine Chillers Never underestimate the value of a wine chiller… Vinglacé is a line of wine chillers and tableware that works as good as it looks. Double walled and insulated, they come in a wide range of colours and styles to both keep your wine cool, and look sharp enough on the table that you won’t forget to use them. Available at Nordstrom, Pottery Barn, Amazon, and other stores around the province. Around $90-110. Tawashi Scrubbing Brush Wash dishes like a ninja with a Tawashi Scrubbing Brush. They’re made from coconut palm fibres, and ideal for use on all surfaces including cast iron, stainless steel, countertops and stovetops, and for removing caked-on dried food from your forks, as well as for prepping food – yes, an easy solution to gritty celery and soil-y carrots. And they’re good for the environment… $8 at Knifewear Calgary and Edmonton. The Munchy Munchy Cookbook for Kids: Essential Skills and Recipes Every Young Chef Should Know – and yes, we think everyone’s going to want to get their hands on a copy of Pierre Lamielle’s latest book this holiday season. One of the very few Calgary chefs to win Chopped Canada, Lamielle introduces us to the Munchy Munchy Gang, who take us on a fun and educational kitchen adventure with kid-friendly recipes and cartoons that are sure to engage your little ones. Familius LLC $20
Riedel Drink Specific Glassware The people at Riedel already revolutionized how we use glassware for wine, so it was bound to happen the their attention would fall to other drink ware. Currently available in seven different styles, the glassware is stylish (naturally), but also functional for your favourite drink. From the highball and rocks glasses to the “Nick & Nora”, your cocktail game just made it to the big league. Around $30 for a set of 2. Ruinart Rosé in Gift Box Ruinart have been exclusively producing champagne since 1729, and are credited with making the first rosé champagne. It’s ideal for the holidays (who are we kidding, it’s ideal any time!) with its delicate pomegranate colour and aroma, which develop into more tropical fruits and red berries on the palate, with a little hint of mint. From premier cru chardonnay and pinot noir, it’s definitely a superior, celebratory bubbly. CSPC 718222 $100- $110. Sharing Our Table We celebrate all holidays at this time of year, and the newly released “Sharing Our Table” makes a great Chanukah present. From the Calgary Jewish Academy, it’s a community cookbook fundraiser for one of the schools, to provide a safe, supportive and challenging environment from nursery to Grade 9, and it includes our editor’s family ice cream recipe! $25 from Owl’s Nest Books and Glenbow Museum.
This season, gather your family, friends or colleagues around our tables for inspired and memorable celebrations.
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Holiday Gift Guide Straw Hut Straws We hate single use plastic as much as you do, and we were delighted to discover ecofriendly straw company, Straw Hut, at Taste of Calgary this summer. They offer upwards of 70 unique reusable and ethically sourced straws from stainless steel, silicone, and glass, along with cleaning brushes and carrying pouches. Find them at Millarville, Banff, and Spruce Meadows Christmas Markets or order online at strawhutco.com. Crafty Cocktail Boxes Calgary’s Crafty Cocktails offer cleverly curated boxes with everything you need apart from the booze, to create 12 cocktails (four of each of three recipes). With a choice of subscriptions, you can enjoy fun evenings at home this winter making cocktails with friends, or you can order a one-time, no commitment box. Previous boxes include an American gin box, a Cuban rum box, a tequila box, and vodka martini box. $50-$75 at craftycocktails.com.
The Little Book of Whiskey With quotes like “Whiskey is by far the most popular of all remedies that won’t cure a cold” and “My mama always told me there are few things a good hug can’t cure, and those things are what Bourbon’s for”, this pocket-sized book is a must for any fan of the spirit. An overview of its origins and production leads into 25 recipes with whisky for both savoury and sweet dishes, as well as cocktails. A perfect stocking-stuffer! Andrews McMeel Publishing $12
Veuve Clicquot Rich Champagne A champagne designed for cocktails? It’s definitely a thing, and heck, anything that gets us drinking more champagne can’t be a bad thing. “Rich” from Veuve Clicquot is a richer, sweeter bubbly with all the flavours we love from champagne, and with the textures and mouthfeel of sweetness. Great on its own, but better in any sort of champagne cocktail. CSPC 770608 Around $100-110.
Paracanna Zen Zingers Cannabis Gummy Kits Now you’re in control of your dosage of CBD and THC with this clever gummy-making kit from BC that contains everything you need to make 15 perfect little gummies, apart from your cannabis oil. Add water and cook, and you’ll be out of the kitchen ten minutes later with the gummies setting in your fridge or freezer. Widely available in four fun flavours at cannabis stores across the province and at paracanna.com. Kits $19.99, refills $12.99. New York Christmas Baking Christmas is a special time in New York, and after seeing this book we suspect you’ll be searching for flights. You’ll find 18 recipes just for sweet Christmas cookies, plus holiday cakes, pies and cupcakes, as well as bread, muffins and buns, and for Christmas breakfasts too. We’re looking forward to trying sour cream snowflakes, apple crumble muffins and… eggnog cheesecake! Murdoch Books $35
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Making The Case: For Winter Whites by TOM FIRTH When the mercury dips, it’s easier to think that a red wine might be the order of the day, but with the daunting prospect that we’ll probably see at least six more months of icy streets and probably some of the white stuff, why not think about some white wines too? With this month's Making The Case, I wanted to recommend some beautifully made white wines from at home and around the world that are white, yes, but cover a range from light and tropical, to some that are a little heavier or might see a little oak. There was a tendency to only think of wines that might handle a little spice or heavier fare, but there are more than a few that might work for the turkey season, Asian cuisine, or even a little seafood if desired. So bundle up, invite some friends over for some nosh, and pull the cork on something white!
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Culmina 2016 R & D White Blend Okanagan Valley, British Columbia A slightly unusual blend of chardonnay with riesling, gewürztraminer, and viognier, but one that works, and works well. Richer, tropical fruits with peach and pear fruits with loads of spice and zippy acids. Quite dry on the palate but not bone dry, this will be an easy pleaser around the table. $28-32 CSPC +792457
CedarCreek 2018 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Gewürztraminer is just a pleasure for the nose. All those clean tropical aromatics like mandarin oranges, lychee, lime and green apple hard candies. A little bit of sweetness is here on the palate, but buffered by enough acidity to bring it into balance. This would rock equally well with some salty appetizers as it would some spicy seafoods. $21-24 CSPC +240978
Upper Bench 2018 Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Mount Boucherie 2018 Gewürztraminer British Columbia
One of my new favourite rieslings in the Okanagan, Upper Bench’s checks off all the boxes, steely, racy acids and textbook mineral characters with green apple and citrus fruits. Quite dry, but not bone dry, my glass must’ve had a leak since it didn’t last long. Try pairing with anything really, but should stun the turkey crowd over the holidays. $27-30 CSPC + 598805
What’s not to love about well-crafted gewürztraminer? The Okanagan’s Mount Boucherie has had some changes in recent years, and I feel their wine is better than ever. The “gew” has a lovely nose with lychee, melons, orange zest and a big floral bouquet. On the palate a bit of residual sugar opens things up and balances the acids. Enjoy with some lighter seafood or Asian-style cuisine. $24-26 CSPC + 602086
46 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
Château de Fuissé 2017 Macon-Village, France
Shaw + Smith 2017 M3 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills, Australia
Quails’ Gate 2018 Chenin Blanc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Richly built, but not too rich, with wonderful acids to offset the ripe and clear tropical and apple fruits supported by just a hint of roasted nuttiness. Lemon flavours with baked apple lead into a lengthy, slightly bitter finish. I could drink this all day, and then probably have some with roasted duck for dinner. About $34-37 CSPC +7623325
It is far too easy to forget how enticing well-crafted chardonnay can be. Plush and expressive fruits with prominent barrel and autolytic characters (but not too much). The almost silken mouthfeel is an excellent counterpoint to those bright tropical fruits and addictive finish. The glass was gone all too soon. Around $53-56 CSPC +711921
Chenin blanc is a reward for the senses, what’s not to love about those bright, lemon fruits, white flowers and that scratchy, wool blanket aroma? Quails’ Gate still makes one of the only varietally labeled chenins in the Okanagan and I’m always thrilled to try it again. Works very well with squash-based dishes and turkey. $$21-24 CSPC +391854
Hester Creek 2018 Pinot Blanc Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia
Pine Ridge 2017 Chenin Blanc + Viognier California
Zenato 2015 Lugana Riserva “Sergio” Lugana, Italy
Once hailed as the Okanagan’s signature white grape, pinot blanc never quite took the limelight from pinot gris (or from riesling, chardonnay, or gewürztraminer) but it’s almost a shame, blancs like this showcase yellow apple fruits, ripe peaches and pears, and a touch of mineral. Clean and lush on the palate, this is an easy glass of wine to enjoy. $17-21 CSPC +749773
Two of my favourite white grapes in a blend? Sign me up! Built around 83 percent chenin with viognier, the best of both are carried forward in this bottle. Tart lemons with apple fruits bolstered by rich floral characters and a slightly weightier mouthfeel. Versatile in that I wanted to enjoy it with food and without, try pairing with grilled poultry or turkey legs. $20-22 CSPC +746997
Made from 100 percent trebbiano, this is a stunning, jaw-dropping, uncommon white wine from a lesser-known grape. Crystal-clean tropical fruits with mild herbaceous character and melon-rind undercurrents. Vibrant acids and perfect balance make for a delicious and versatile dinner guest. Try roasted poultry, fresh water fish, or something with a little saltiness. About $39-43 CSPC +703575
Luca 2017 Chardonnay Tupungato, Argentina
Shaw + Smith 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills, Australia
40 Knots 2016 L’Orange Comox Valley, British Columbia
Chardonnay and Argentina rarely come together in the mind for fans of either Argentina’s wine or chardonnay. But, there are a number of high quality examples including this one from Luca, which is the winery of Laura Catena of the famous Catena wine family. Matchstick and buttery aromas with salinity and spicy apple and a long creamy finish. Perfect for a cool evening. $38-42 CSPC +569277
Sauvignon blanc seems to have settled into two different camps, the lean and grassy New Zealand style and then the riper, juicier style. Shaw + Smith has possibly perfected this second style. Still distinctively sauvignon blanc, with melon and gooseberry, mineral and citrus, but wrapped in a slick, plush mouthfeel that excites the palate. About $33-37 CSPC +711920
We certainly don’t see many wines from Vancouver Island here in Alberta, but the island is home to a number of small, passionate (and good) wineries. 40 Knots is quite new here and the L’Orange is one of the few schönbergers (this one blended with pinot gris) out there. Deeply scented with honey, orange rind, and floral characters, this is also quite dry, spicy, and engaging. $54-56 CSPC +252445
Etcetera... Border Hills Lemon Infused Honey
Dukkah Bread Dipper
Becoming increasingly popular, flavoured honey can be used in many ways, and Border Hills, of Roland, Manitoba, suggest adding their pure, unpasteurised, creamed honey that’s mixed with freeze-dried organic lemon, to tea and smoothies, but at this time of year it makes a great hot toddy! 250 g $8 at H&W Produce, Springbank Cheese, and Piece on Peace.
Dukkah is an Egyptian mix of roasted nuts, seeds, and spices, and is usually enjoyed by dipping bread into olive oil and then into the mix, but it’s versatile and you can sprinkle it over pasta dishes, roast veggies and salads too. This turmeric and sesame dukkah from Umah Foods of Surry, BC, makes a terrific coating for meat, chicken, or fish before you cook it. $6-$7 at H&W Produce, Edmonton and Calgary.
Dandies Marshmallows Up your cocoa game or add festive flavour to your holiday baking with Dandies Peppermint Marshmallows. Unlike conventional marshmallows, they’re 100% vegan and completely free of gelatin and high fructose corn syrup – they’re flavoured with natural peppermint. As they’re mini sized, a pack goes a long way. 283 g $5. Widely available.
Aquafaba Mayo Aquafaba might be a new word to some, but it’s been growing in popularity as a replacement for eggs for a few years. Literally “water of beans”, it’s made from soaking legumes, and at Blush Lane it’s the base for their Be Fresh Aquafaba Mayo. It’s super smooth and creamy and absolutely delicious - and comes in chili lime, and black garlic and seaweed flavours too. 500 mL $9 at Blush Lane and spud.ca.
Sea Snax SeaVegi
Tasty Seasoning Blends by Club House Are you fascinated by the “Tasty” recipe videos too? Well now they’ve teamed up with Club House, and released five new seasonings based on the top recipes. Savory is a tomato, basil, and oregano mix; Jazzy has cayenne, paprika, and garlic, Hearty is garlic, onion, and red bell pepper; Fiery is a mix of sriracha, lime, and garlic; and Zesty has basil, thyme, and lemon zest. $3 at all major grocery stores.
Sea Snax have now brought out SeaVegi – a healthy seaweed salad mix of five different sea vegetables – Wakame, Agar, Suginori, Tsunomata and Maufunori - that you soak in water for 7 minutes and watch them bloom in front of your eyes! We like them mixed in with leafy greens and other salad ingredients, and tossed with salad dressing. Widely available at organic markets across the province.
48 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019 49
And now it’s 20 years later. In that time she has taught classes, worked in wine wholesale, continued her own wine education, and launched her company, “Soul Vines”. In 2006, she was selected for CBC radio’s Homestretch. “It was a dream come true for me because I always wanted to work at CBC. So it means a lot to me, and that I've been there 13 years,” says MacKay. She’s tickled pink about her latest venture though, as she’s combined wine and travel, and in October next year will be the beverage guide for Expedia’s first beer and wine cruise - a 10-day tour, starting with beer in Prague and Pilsen, then seven days cruising through Germany, Austria, Slovakia, and Hungary, where wine will be the focus.
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM
“I wish people would not ignore the sweet wine category. It breaks my heart. Rather than having a dessert, have this for dessert - or if you're having cheese, have this sweet wine and end on a high note,” says Laurie MacKay, CBC radio’s House Wine columnist. MacKay is from Saint Albert, and is proud to be born and raised in Alberta. Her studies took her to NAIT for Marketing Management, and then to Western University for a degree in Economics and Political Science, during which she worked at the Canadian embassy in Washington DC, and decided the diplomatic path was for her. A trip in 1990 to the Middle East, Africa, and Europe gave her cause for thought though, as she learned she was a really good traveller. A spell as an intern at the Alberta Legislature confirmed that this wasn't her future. “So I did what I always do at crossroads, and go traveling,” she explains. “That's always been the thing that nourishes me and invigorates
me.” She lived in southern Japan, and travelled in India, Thailand, and Nepal for a couple of years before moving to Calgary.
“And I hope to run two or four of those trips a year and become the river cruise wine and beer specialist,” she smiles. What bottle MacKay is saving for a special occasion? “Well, this is an exciting bottle because it's 1999, the year I started in wine, and that’s important to me. It's Royal Tokai, and I didn’t pick it because it rhymes with my name,” MacKay laughs. “But I really like indigenous grape varieties, and I really like acidity in wine.”
“I get pretty bored of things that stay the same, and wine isn’t like that,” she says.
“And this is the wine of kings, and it's from Hungary,” she adds. “That's a coincidence because I bought this many years ago when I worked in Kensington, and now it's come full circle because I'm doing the wine tour in Hungary, but it's probably the best pairing I ever had. When the mood catches me and I open this, I am going to recreate it - a Medjool date stuffed with Roquefort cheese, and an organic walnut on top.”
“There are different countries to explore. There are different regions within the countries to explore. You have the people behind the wine to explore. And when you think you might know everything, it's a different vintage and every year you basically start over.”
“What makes this wine really special are the rich, unctuous flavours of apricots, pear and orange peel, and a backbone of acidity that kicks in mid-palate. So it doesn't just coat the tongue, it really lights up the palate. Talking about that pairing, I want to open it soon. Like right now!”
In 1999, she took a job at Kensington Wine Market for six months – and stayed for six years as she’d caught the wine bug.
50 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - November 2019
Alberta's leading food and beverage magazine - dining out, dining in, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails.