Page 1

ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 8 NO.1 :: MAY 2019

OUR CRAFT ISSUE

ALBERTA-MADE IS BETTER THAN EVER

HOT OKANAGAN

MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH

CRAFT CIDER | CANADIAN CHEESE |Alberta's CANOLA freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

1


SHO ONLI P NE IN-ST OR ORE

2 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019


14

20

22

22

15 VOLUME 8 / ISSUE #1 MAY 2019

Features 15

Surprising Alberta Foods Alberta is not known for a long growing season, so the produce we can grow here might come as a surprise. by Carmen Cheng

22 Hot Okanagan The Okanagan has hundreds of wineries, and we have insider tips to help you build your own wine adventure. by Jeannette LeBlanc

26

Opening Our Eyes to Canola Oil It’s hard to compete with the virtuoso of EVOO, but Canada does have an oil that rivals even the best olive oil. by Leilani Olynik 

18 Cheese Glorious Cheese: Let’s buy Canadian! by Daniel Bontje

32 May Spirits White lightning by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

20 Treating Mom Right Ideas for Mother’s Day brunch by Renée Kohlman

34 Craft Beverages ...the growth continues by David Nuttall

8

Off The Menu – Workshop Kitchen + Culture’s Chorizo with Saffron Broth, Chickpeas, and Socarrat

28 Craft Cider: A Revival… by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

38 Making The Case Springing into Summer by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

9

Book Review - The Caesar: 50 years. 50 stories.

10

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks: Mother’s Day Brunch

30 Alberta Craft Distillers …are in good spirits by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

42 Open That Bottle Bill Robinson of Alberta Beer Festivals   by Linda Garson

40 Etcetera

On the Cover: Many of our Alberta craft distilleries pride themselves on picking local ingredients for the botanicals to infuse for their gin, and Dong Kim has cleverly captured some of them on our cover this issue. Many thanks to Dong, and to Wild Life Distillery, The Butternut Tree, and Silk Road Spice Merchant, for their help in sourcing them.

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 3


Letter From The Editor And there are more opening every month. There are so many more delicious recipes waiting for you to try at home, cocktails to be mixed, and interesting and exciting wines, beers, and spirits to tell you about, that every month we run out of room for all the articles we want to include.

It’s our seventh birthday! We’ve now published 70 issues, and are in no danger of running out of stories to tell you; Alberta’s culinary scene includes many noteworthy chefs, mixologists, brewers, distillers, restaurants, markets, and stores, that we haven’t introduced you to yet.

And it’s not been an easy seven years to be in any business in Alberta, particularly publishing. We’ve watched magazines come and go in that time, seen slimmer volumes and less frequency, but we’re proud to say that we’re stronger than ever, receiving an increasing amount of compliments, and are looking forward to growing with the economy in the months and years to come. And we thank our supporters, our advertisers, contributors, and readers, for the love you’ve shown us, propelling us on and making us strive to do better. We couldn’t publish without your help.

I love that you’re reading Culinaire, especially in this digital age, where opinions and sensational news dominate our feeds: images and words that are here one minute, and I’ll be darned if I can ever find them again. Magazines contain real information from trusted experts; people tell me that they read Culinaire from cover to cover - and love it because of the content. We’re here to inform, educate and entertain, which is why magazines matter, and why all statistics confirm they are growing in popularity. While you’re reading Culinaire, you’re probably not driving, making a cup of tea, or scrolling through pages of social media posts – you’re actually just reading. And for that I thank you, as it makes all the hours and effort worthwhile. Cheers, Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief

CELEBRATING EST.

60

1959

YEARS

SERVING ALBERTANS

We don’t kid around about coffee.

In our shops, we grind and serve tens of thousands of kilograms of Italian coffee beans to fuel the morning drive to work, much deserved afternoon breaks and to accompany a little dolce in the evening. With over 30 brands from all over the world - we take our beloved café VERY seriously and serve every espresso, cappuccino and latte with pride.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. Italiancentre.ca EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

CALGARY Willow Park


ALBERTA | FOOD & DRINK | RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Daniel Bontje web@culinairemagazine.ca Sales and Marketing: Chris Clarke 587-998-2475 chris@culinairemagazine.ca Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca For Edmonton: Lorraine Shulba 780-919-9627 lorraine@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Little Blue Bug Studios Edmonton Contributors: Daniel Bontje Anna Brooks Carmen Cheng Elizabeth Chorney-Booth  Tom Firth Dong Kim Renée Kohlman Jeannette Leblanc David Nuttall Leilani Olynik

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Our Contributors < Carmen Cheng

Carmen comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious overorderers. Even at a young age, she loved to eat and try different dishes. She believes in learning about different cultures through understanding and honouring their culinary stories. She will try pretty much any food because there’s no room for pretension. Carmen has shared her food adventures in various forms of media and publications including print, online, and television.

< Karen Miller

Karen is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook for Culinaire reviews. She claims to have been on the "know where your food comes from" bandwagon sooner than most. Always willing to impart knowledge to absolutely anybody who asks, Karen is practical but creative, having taught many styles of cooking classes. She was also part of the Calgary Dishing girls (producing two cookbooks).

< Jeannette Leblanc

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Jeannette LeBlanc is an Okanagan-based writer with a focus on wine and food. She has a keen interest in sustainable farming and those working to help feed the planet. From dusty vineyards and well-worn boots to winemaker dinners and not-so-sensible shoes, Jeannette is happiest unearthing the stories of a place and its people. She lives in Penticton with a healthy wine collection and a spoiled cat named Tippy.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.


Salutes… Congratulations to Chef Scott Hergott, of Sky Bistro in Banff, who took top spot at Cochon555 and has officially been crowned the Banff "Prince of Pork." It was a deliciously belt-loosening afternoon, and we were honoured to be

judges again this year. 775 lucky people scarfed down 30+ dishes and over 1,500 lbs of heritage breed pork. Congrats too to sommeliers Seamus Dooley of Chateau Lake Louise’s Fairview Bar and Jackie Cooke of Avec Bistro, who tied for first place for their wine pairings.  And to Team Canada, led by Lasantha Mendis of Mount Logan Lodge in Fort McMurray, who won first place for their proven

pastry and culinary skills at the Festival International du Pain 2019! More congrats go to Alberta Food Tours' president Karen Anderson and co-author Matilde Sanchez-Turri whose Food Artisans of Alberta was awarded Best Culinary Travel/ Food Tourism Book in Canada at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris. The book will now go on to compete in its category against the winners from 20 other countries.

And Shout Outs… We’re so pleased to hear that the flood mitigation and maintenance work is near completion, and River Café is finally able to reopen! And to welcome everyone back, they’re offering a special friends and family price for the multi-course Chef's Tasting Menu throughout May.

And after months of renos, we’re delighted to welcome Hawthorn Dining Room & Bar to Fairmont Palliser, the hotel’s first new outlet in over 60 years! Replacing the Oak Room and Rimrock restaurant, you’re now greeted by a grand lobby bar, perfect for after work and pre-dinner drinks, or just relaxing in the opulent vintage-style surroundings, completely redesigned by Frank Architecture. Executive Chef Bern Glatz, latterly of Ten Foot Henry, Anju, UNA, and Mercato, is heading up the kitchen with a rotating menu of family-style and share plates featuring local Alberta producers. 6 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

Come for breakfast, lunch or dinner, and enjoy Happy Hour and Late Night menus too! Open 7 days. A welcome addition to Calgary’s Aspen Landing is Allora Everyday Italian, newly opened in the old Redwater spot after a major refurbishment. It’s beautiful, yet playful (look for the body contour on the ceiling, the height measure, and footsteps to the bar!) and with seriously good, 100 percent handmade food from local and directly imported Italian ingredients. Choose the 8-seat table in the glass-enclosed Pasta Station and watch your pasta made fresh (and gluten-free too!), and salumi shaved in front of your eyes. Try Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with pickled mushrooms and crispy Parm, one of the handmade pizzas, or choose your size of pasta dish with a choice of excellent housemade ingredients such as fennel sausage and ricotta.

And Analog has opened their sixth location here too. The three Prefontaine brothers have come a long, long way since they started selling commercial espresso machines in 1991, and helping local entrepreneurs start their own coffee shops. Now this communityfocused company is offering their singleorigin coffees, from early to 9-10pm, 7 days.

There’s movement in Mahogany’s Westman Village… Diner Deluxe has opened their third Calgary location here, serving up ethical, sustainable and seasonal, classic comfort food from 7am-3pm, 7 days a week, around 90 percent of which can be prepared gluten free – yes, even the batter for their fish and chips (no reservations).

Cacao 70 Eatery has joined Analog and Diner Deluxe and opened their second Calgary location in Westman Village too. A brunch, lunch, and sweet spot where chocolate is the star ingredient, go for dishes such as Meat Lover’s Omelette and Croque Madame, and stay for the sweet menu that includes four fondues.

Allora Evertday Italian


JOIN THE BENCH 1775 WINE CLUB BENCH1775.COM

CASUALLY ELEGANT. UNIQUELY VINTAGE.

Beer

It’s the m agic nu

mber (and we’ ve got lo ts of ma gic...)

780-455-4556

11819 St. Albert Trail | sherbrookeliq uor.com

PATIO SEASON OPENS MAY 18! NEW SUMMER MENU From our garden to your plate LOBSTER BOIL Thursday June 27 East coast meets west coast with a traditional family-style lobster boil on the exclusive Founders’ Lounge patio. TICKETS REQUIRED

Reservations and Tickets 403.268.8607 or www.SelkirkGrille.ca

SEE OUR freshest WEBSITEfood FOR&RESTAURANT HOURS- May 2019 7 Alberta's beverage magazine


Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM

Our Rioja in Alberta Grand Finale was hosted by Workshop Kitchen + Culture in Calgary. When the second dish came out, there were gasps of delight at this robust and flavourful dish, with many requests for the recipe. Many thanks to Chef Kenny Kaechele for sharing the recipe for this truly tasty dish. For maximum effect, pair it with a Rioja Reserva wine.

Chorizo with Saffron Broth, Chickpeas, and Socarrat Serves 2 1 shallot, sliced thin 4 garlic cloves, sliced thin 1 cup canned chickpeas, liquid reserved 1 large fresh chorizo sausage (not dry cured) roasted in oven at 375º F for about 10 minutes until cooked through and juicy 3 Tbs coarsely chopped Italian parsley Pinch chili flakes 1 Tbs butter To taste salt and pepper Saute the shallot and garlic in olive oil, add chickpeas and liquid. Add remaining ingredients and cook at medium heat for 3 minutes. The Broth: ½ onion – charred 3 cloves garlic 8 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

2 cups (500 mL) pork or veal stock 1 cup (250 mL) Rioja red wine ½ tsp saffron 2 Tbs (30 mL) sherry vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey To taste salt and pepper Brown the onions and garlic in a little olive oil, then add remaining ingredients and reduce at slow simmer for 30 minutes. Adjust seasoning. The Socarrat: ½ cup arborio or carnaroli rice ½ cup (125 mL) water Pinch salt Cook rice in water in large pot on stove (much larger than usual rice cooking) until all liquid has evaporated. Cover and place pan in oven at 325º F for about 30

minutes until rice has cooked and stuck to the bottom of the pan. Remove stuck rice in large pieces to garnish dish. To plate: 1. Place chickpea mixture in bottom of bowl-style plate, and place chorizo on top. 2. Ladle the warm broth over the dish, then top with pieces of the socarrat. 3. Drizzle dish with some extra virgin olive oil and fresh parsley leaves.

If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!


Book Review

The Caesar: 50 years. 50 stories caesarstore.ca, $31.00

by KAREN MILLER

The story is certainly endearing, with a common thread being tradition, family gettogethers, friends, and special occasions. The Caesar is not just a drink, but a culture!

What “A Great Idea, eh?” was part of an ad campaign in the ‘80s for what was to become Canada’s National Cocktail (as declared by Parliament), the Caesar. Walter Chell created the Caesar in Calgary 50 years ago, and in honour of this anniversary Canada Dry Mott’s group have compiled 50 stories, memories, and anecdotes from 50 Canadians to celebrate the Caesar!

::

The ingredients of a classic Caesar were inspired by another classic, spaghetti a la vongole: mixing tomato juice and clam nectar with Worcestershire sauce and spices. There are now as many recipes for the drink as there are people making it. The garnishes have become monumental, and far removed from the original stalk of celery. With yearly contests to create the “best” Caesar, imaginations have run wild with garnishes of truffled grilled cheese sandwiches, lobster claws, grilled pineapple spears and so much more. Dan Aykroyd tells of introducing members of The Rolling Stones to his Island Caesar, complete with

“Ants on a Log on an Island” garnish. This book really is a compelling and proud celebration of the Caesar, and all that it means to the people of Canada, and others around the globe that have been introduced to it. Many of the stories reminisce how they have “educated” bartenders on making a Caesar, and the essential ingredient, Mott’s Clamato juice, or stockpiling it to take on trips outside Canada. What a great host/hostess gift the book will make, together with all the fixings for your favourite version of the drink of course! Karen Miller is a former lawyer who got on the "know where your food comes from" bandwagon earlier than most and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.

Call i n g al l Al b e rt a res t a ura nt s , ba rs , a nd hote ls

::

Are you proud of your wine list? Your beer selection? Your spirits list? Our 3rd Annual Alberta’s Finest Drinks List awards is now open for entries! Your customers are looking for great drinks lists to complement your menu and complete the dining experience, so whether your specialty is By The Glass, Brown Spirits, Alberta Content, Italian List, or you have an all-round world-class small, medium or large wine list, we’re looking for the best in the province. • Judged by industry experts

• No cost to enter your list

Entry deadline June 14, 2019. Results will be published in September 2019 Culinaire Magazine For more details and to enter your drinks list go to culinairemagazine.ca/finest

Get the rec ognition you des erve!

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 9


Chefs' Tips

Tricks!

Mother’s Day Brunch

by ANNA BROOKS photography by DONG KIM

Ah Mother’s Day, that special Sunday every year when you and the mother figure in your life can drink bottomless mimosas and spend the rest of the day in food-induced comas, free of judgment.

Mother’s Day brunch has become a timehonoured tradition, one so revered that restaurants serving anything egg-related have to plan months in advance to accommodate the throng of guests eager to celebrate a morning of matriarchs. But if you’re not one for crowds or waiting in long lines, you can still treat the moms in your life with an extra special brunch from the comfort of home. That’s why this month, we talked to four Alberta chefs who shared some tips and tricks (and delicious recipes!) for whipping up a lavish brunch meant just for mom. Merritt Gordon, chef at Dandy Brewing Company in Calgary, loves to keep brunch simple and classic. Putting too much pressure on yourself can be a recipe for disaster, and after all, what really matters on Mother’s Day is spending time with people you love. And even if things don’t go exactly as planned, you can take solace in the fact that mothers will love you unconditionally — even if you’ve broken your fifth batch of hollandaise sauce. “Brunch doesn’t have to be so intimidating,” Gordon says. “I just love a traditional breakfast with eggs, baked beans, roasted tomatoes, and your choice of meat. The classics are classics for a reason!” But even the classics can be a lot of work the morning of, especially when your guests have already gulped down a few mimosas. Gordon recommends picking a dish low on labour or one you can prepare the day before. Perfect if you don’t have a lot of kitchen space (or if you just want to save time on dishes) try Gordon’s ooey gooey recipe for bread pudding French toast!

10 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019


There’s a lot of pressure to make Mother’s Day special, and that’s why so many of us leave brunch to the experts. Mauro Martina, chef and founder of OEB Breakfast Co. in Calgary, Edmonton, and soon to be Vancouver, says you may not have the tools or skills to whip up a batch of sourdough charcoal bagels or the perfect eggs Florentine, but that doesn’t mean you can’t come up with a memorable meal for whomever you call mom. “You want to make them feel special,” he says. “One thing you can do is incorporate something you wouldn’t have every day, like truffles. And you don’t have to spend thousands of dollars, you can buy truffle paste or oil at a good specialty store.”

Bread Pudding French Toast Serves 4

450 g sandwich bread of your choice 2 cups (500 mL) heavy cream 6 eggs 100 g icing sugar 10 g cinnamon Clarified butter for finishing

1. Cut bread into small, even cubes and place

in a 25 x 30 cm (10 x 12”) baking dish lined with parchment paper.

2. Whisk together remaining ingredients and gently pour into prepared pan, moistening all cubes of bread.

3. Wrap dish in aluminum foil and place

in refrigerator. Leave to soak for 6 hours, preferably overnight.

4. After soaking, preheat oven to 300º F. Remove from fridge and bake for 30 to 35 minutes. The final product should resemble a soft custard with no runny liquid. 5. Let cool, and then portion into pieces.

Simple little touches, like garnishing eggs with microgreens or serving up strawberries and melted chocolate for dipping are all easy (and affordable) tricks Martina says will make your brunch extra special. The perfect accompaniment for eggs with hollandaise sauce, try Martina’s recipe for truffle squash ragout!

Truffle Squash Ragout Serves 4

2 Tbs (30 mL) canola or vegetable oil 900 g butternut squash, peeled and cubed 1 bay leaf, fresh or dried 1 sprig fresh thyme, whole

1 large yellow onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, chopped 85 g brown sugar 4 cups (1 L) vegetable stock (or enough to cover the squash when cooking) 1 Tbs (15 mL) truffle paste or sauce (recommended Tartufata, found at fine Italian supermarkets) To taste salt and black pepper 1 Tbs (15 mL) white truffle oil, to finish only!

1. Preheat a large pot with canola oil. Add cubed squash and sauté 5 to 8 minutes without giving the squash any colour. 2. Add bay leaf, whole sprig of thyme, and season lightly with salt and black pepper. 3. Add onions, garlic, brown sugar and stir

well. Cook for an additional 5 to 6 minutes on medium-low heat.

4. Add enough vegetable stock to just cover

the squash. Lower heat and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or until squash is fork tender. When done, stir in truffle paste.

When ready to serve, brush pieces with melted clarified butter (or regular melted butter, if you prefer).

5. Cool completely. Finish with truffle oil,

6. Bake in a hot oven until outside begins to

bread or wilted spinach. Poached eggs pair well with this dish – especially with hollandaise sauce!

crisp, but inside is still soft. Serve with your favourite French toast toppings!

and season kosher salt and pepper.

6. Serve warm over your favourite toasted


Brad Tebble, head chef at PIP in Edmonton, is all about comfort food – the heart of every good brunch menu. Other than the mothers in our lives, of course, what’s more comforting than slugging down prosecco and gorging yourself on a decadent platter of French toast? Tebble’s best advice for making the perfect Mother’s Day meal is sticking to simple, but high-quality ingredients. Another “trick” he shares is loading up on ingredients most humans (well, not any of us

12 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

at Culinaire) try to cut back on. Yes, today is the day you can have as much salt and butter as you want! “Salt, pepper, and butter are the best things to happen to food in my opinion,” he says. “I think a big thing people miss is just the amount of seasoning you need to use – that’s why restaurant food tastes so much better than home cooking!” Don’t hold back on seasoning while trying out Tebble’s recipe for his new favourite dish at PIP, mushroom toast with poached eggs!

Mushroom Toast with Poached Eggs Serves 2-3

2/3 cup unsalted butter ¼ cup shallots, minced 625 g cremini mushrooms (or mushrooms of your choice), cleaned and sliced 1/3 cup white wine 3 large garlic cloves, minced 1 Tbs fresh thyme, chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) heavy cream To taste salt and black pepper 2-3 large slices of sourdough bread, toasted 2-3 eggs (cooked to your choice)


Parmesan cheese, shredded (for garnish)

1. In a wide-bottomed pot, melt butter until it foams.

Add shallots, and cook until soft and translucent, approximately 2 minutes.

2. Add mushrooms. Cook until fat is absorbed and starts to brown.  3. Add wine to deglaze. Add remaining ingredients and simmer until all liquid is absorbed (mushrooms shouldn’t be runny).

4. Place a generous portion of mushrooms on the toast. Place soft poached egg (or cooked to your preference) on top and garnish with fresh shredded Parmesan cheese. For an added touch, sprinkle crispy potato sticks, like hickory sticks, on top!

. We d..c.ayotu er You PthearBBtQyan,d the party! foo We bring

(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW info@minassteakhouse.com www.minassteakhouse.coM

#EATATMINAS


Mother’s Day Carrot Cake Serves 5

1½ cups (325 mL) canola oil 300 g or 6 large eggs 300 g white sugar 100 g brown sugar 250 g flour 10 g cinnamon 10 g baking powder 6 g baking soda 4 g salt 300 g grated carrot Ricotta cheese, zested lemon, and castor sugar (optional garnish)

Let’s be honest, for moms anywhere, it’s the little things that count. That’s why they still have that lumpy clay dinosaur you made back in kindergarten proudly on display. Dave Bohati, executive chef at Murrieta’s Mountain Bar & Grill in Calgary and Canmore, says the same goes for cooking – a little in the brunch world can go a long way. If you have a dehydrator, Bohati says dehydrated tomatoes are one of his favourite ingredients to incorporate into brunch dishes. Using a food processor, Bohati says you can whir up dried tomatoes into a powder and stir into hollandaise sauce to give it a kick of acidity (plus, it looks pretty too!). If you want to take indulgence to new heights, one of Bohati’s best tricks requires just one ingredient: condensed milk. “If you take a can of sweet, condensed milk and boil it for three to four hours, it turns into dulce de leche,” he says. “You can turn that into a base for something like a stuffed French toast with vanilla Chantilly cream – it’s a whole other level of high calorie deliciousness.” If the mom in your life has a sweet tooth, impress her with Bohati’s recipe for carrot cake topped with fresh lemon and ricotta. 14 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

1. Emulsify canola oil and eggs with an immersion hand blender. 2. Add sugars and continue to blend.

3. Preheat oven to 350º F. Sift dry ingredients into large bowl.

4. Mix wet and dry ingredients together, and stir in grated carrot. 5. Pour into a prepared pan and bake for 20 minutes.

6. Let cake cool before cutting into squares. Tip: Ricotta cheese, zested lemon, and castor sugar make a refreshing substitute for traditional cream cheese icing!

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist and graduate student currently living and studying in New York City.


Grown In AlbertaSurprising Foods by CARMEN CHENG

About a year ago, I heard whispers about families harvesting and cooking up crawfish from Alberta lakes. This news was surprising and intriguing as crawfish, or “mudbugs”, are generally associated with Southern states such as Texas or Louisiana, not Alberta. As a landlocked province, Alberta is not known for bountiful seafood or produce, so it might come as a surprise that seafood and melons, among other products can grow here. With advancements in agricultural technology and systems such as aquaponics or vertical farms, it is becoming even easier for producers to grow fresh and sustainable product that wouldn’t typically be found in this part of the world. This list of foods that are already grown in Alberta just might change your perception of our province. Cantaloupe and Watermelon - Mans Organics Last Fall, Bar Von Der Fels had a dish on their menu with Fogo Island Crab and Alberta grown cantaloupe! The dish was delicious as the sweetness of the cantaloupe

brought out the sweetness of the crab. Bar Von Der Fel’s chef, Doug King sources the melon from Mans Organics, in Southern Alberta owned by the Mans Family – Henk, Rita, Andrew, and Denise.

retailers across the province including: Community Natural Foods, Blush Lane, SPUD.ca, Busy Beas Market Garden, Freson Bros, and Earth’s General Store just to name a few.

The existence of Alberta-grown melons seems novel with our weather conditions and climate, however Andrew Mans says, “Southern Alberta has good light levels and enough heat that it does work for us. They can be challenging to grow and timing is very important.” In addition to cantaloupe, Mans Organics also grows watermelon. 

Barramundi (Asian Sea Bass) - Deepwater Farms Barramundi, or Asian Sea Bass is native to waters near Southeast Asia and Australia, approximately 10,000 km away from landlocked Alberta, yet Paul Schumlich and Kevin Daniels, founders of Deepwater Farms, have figured out how to raise this fish and supply greens from their aquaponics farm in Calgary year-round.

To overcome some of the challenges, Mans’ melons are started in the greenhouse before being transplanted in the field. Even after they are transplanted, melons are given extra care for the first few weeks to ensure they are given proper protection and heat. The harvest time of these melons can vary between three to six weeks, which can present challenges for the sales process. Mans’ melons have been sold at various

Barramundi are raised in warm, oxygen-rich water. Fish waste in the water is filtered out and broken down by micro-organisms, which turn the waste into a nutrient source for plants grown in hydroponics. Deepwater Farms takes pride in offering a clean, pure, well-raised product through the quality of fish feed and municipal water used

Photograph Mans.  Alberta's freshest food & beveragecourtesy magazine Andrew - May 2019 15


in their process. With a single closedloop process, Deepwater Farms can also recirculate their water, thereby reducing the amount of water they are using, while growing fish, kale, arugula, and other culinary greens. Not only are there significant sustainability benefits to this system, Calgarians can also access locally grown, fresh fish year round, even fish that is typically grown thousands of kilometers away. Being a local producer, the product can be brought to market on the same day that they are harvested, which means if you’re eating Deepwater Barramundi in a restaurant, it could have been harvested just hours beforehand. Deepwater Farms Barramundi can be found at Billingsgate Market, North Sea Market, and City Fish. As most of Deepwater Farms’ customers are currently restaurants and chefs, look out for their product on restaurant menus like Raw Bar in Hotel Arts and Model Milk.

Deepwater Farms Barramundi 16 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

Pink Oyster Mushroom – Gruger Family Fungi Photos of beautiful Alberta-grown Pink Oyster Mushrooms have been popping up all over Instagram over the past year, with their bright pastel tones. Although native to tropical climates, Nisku-based Gruger Family Fungi successfully grow

pink, blue, and gold oyster mushrooms in their indoor vertical farm, amongst other varieties of mushrooms for culinary and medicinal use. Owners Rachel and Carleton Gruger spent years researching different farming systems, and were attracted to the nutritious and medicinal quality of mushrooms and the sustainability that could be gained with this type of farming.

Farmer’s Markets are a great place to learn about local produce Oyster mushrooms grow well indoors at a moderately warm temperature, and feed off hemp fibre and grain that is recycled from Rig Hand Distillery. Gruger Farms also carries Lions Mane mushrooms with a fuzzy exterior that resembles its namesake. Lions Mane mushrooms can be used for culinary and medicinal purposes. They are grown at Gruger Family Fungi, but can also surprisingly be foraged from Alberta forests. Gruger mushrooms can be found on restaurant menus including Chartier in Beaumont and Rge Rd in Edmonton.


We can also buy these beauties at markets. In Edmonton, they can be found at the City Market downtown and Earth’s General Store. In Sherwood Park, Gruger mushrooms are available at the Salisbury Farmer’s Market.

It might come as a surprise that seafood and melons…can grow here

Tomatillo – Cherry Pit, Calgary Farmer’s Market Farmer’s Markets are a great place to learn about local produce. Calgary Farmer’s Market requires vendors who sell vegetables and fruit to label the origin of the product. During a shopping trip in the summer, I came across Alberta grown tomatillo from The Cherry Pit. Tomatillos originated in Mexico and are often used in salsas or soups. They resemble a green tomato but covered

Bar Von Der Fels dish featuring Mans organic cantaloupe and Fogo Island crab by a papery husk, and taste more tart than green tomatoes. They grow well when they have full sun exposure, so with some TLC sunny Alberta can prove to be a good climate to produce tomatillo. Cherry Pit receives Alberta grown tomatillos from Brian Lehodey. Back to the mythical Albertan crawfish. For those who are adventurous enough to

catch their own buckets of crawfish, do your research ahead of time. Although harvesting crawfish in Alberta is legal, ensure that you are aware of the correct protocol and tips shared through the “Alberta Guide to Sportfishing Regulations” (albertaregulations.ca/fishingregs) by the Alberta government before hosting a big locally grown crawfish boil.

Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves traveling, learning about different cuisines, and sharing her food adventures on social media. 

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 17


Great Canadian Cheese by DANIEL BONTJE photography by DONG KIM

It can be tough to know when to buy local, and when to buy imported for the best quality or most notable character. So why buy Canadian cheese? For starters, Canadian cheese is made from 100% Canadian milk (which could have come from a cow, goat, sheep, or even a buffalo), so when you buy local

you support Canadians who cared for the animals. And tight regulations also guarantee quality. With more than 1,050 cheeses currently made in Canada,

there is something surprising and wonderful for every palate - let us guide you through some of our favourites!

Camarades Double Cream Camembert Saint-Raymond, Quebec

As the French came to Quebec they brought much of their culture, and this French-style cheese - buttery, nutty camembert. Camembert typically doesn’t have cream added, but Camarades does, smoothing the texture and bringing it closer to a brie. Don’t be afraid to eat the rind.

Bothwell Black Truffle Monterey Jack New Bothwell, Manitoba

We are used to additions mixed throughout Monterey Jack, such as peppers, herbs, or even other cheeses, as it has a mild sweetness. So it is with the addition of black Italian truffles to Bothwell’s already excellent Monterey Jack; the truffles add an earthy richness. It melts well, so treat yourself and add it to your mac ‘n cheese!

Grizzly Gouda Sylvan Lake, Alberta

As you take a bite of this hard, pleasantly crumbly cheese, go slowly and feel your teeth crunch through small crystals in this intense mouthful. These tyrosine crystals are almost always an indicator of an aged cheese. Use on salads and pastas, or anywhere else you would go for Parmesan, and don’t be afraid to buy a bigger piece since Grizzly’s low moisture content means it can keep up to ten months in the fridge.

14 Arpents Saint-Gédéon, Quebec

Fifth generation owner of Fromagerie Médard uses only milk from his cows to make cheese, as his great-greatgrandparents did. This washed 18 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 18

Ashley Goat, Vaughan, Ontario

This soft ripened goat cheese has a bloomy rind, and as you look closer you’ll find it has a surprise in store - a thin layer of vegetable ash balancing the creaminess with a hint of bitterness. Be careful how you cut it as the cheese ages from the outside in, leaving the centre firm, while the outside becomes creamier and more strongly flavoured.

rind cheese is not for the novice – it’s known for its barnyard ripeness - but has a lot to offer, with complex, buttery, nutty flavours that intensify the longer you wait to dive in.

All cheeses provided for photography and sampling by Worldwide Specialty Foods Ltd. Eager to try new things, Dan balances his love of cooking with his love of eating, and can be found scouring the city for new restaurants and recipes to share.


Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 19


Treating Mom Right: Mother’s Day Brunch Story and photography by RENÉE KOHLMAN

Mother’s Day is a grand time to play around in the kitchen and take care of the breakfast duties for the day, while that special woman in your life catches a few more moments of undisturbed slumber.

20 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019


Breakfast, served in bed, is an unforgettable, luxurious experience, especially if you don’t burn the toast and spill the coffee. It is the thought that counts, but a well-executed plan with edible food is the hopeful outcome. The woman on the receiving end of such a kind gesture will love you forever, especially if you leave the kitchen tidy and put away all of the dishes. Sweep the floor while you’re at it. Heck, take out the trash. It’s mom’s day off.

Lemon Poppy Seed Waffles Serves 4

Waffles are always a favourite brunch item. These make the house smell like lemons, and have deep pockets that are calling out to be filled with butter and maple syrup. 1¾ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup ground flaxseed 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda 1 tsp salt 3 Tbs granulated sugar 1 Tbs lemon zest 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 cups (500 mL) buttermilk (shaken and at room temperature) ¼ cup (60 mL) butter, melted and cooled 1 Tbs (15 mL) fresh lemon juice 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract 4 tsp poppy seeds To serve: softened butter sweetened whipped cream maple syrup fresh fruit

1. Preheat your waffle iron according to

manufacturer’s instructions.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, ground flax, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. 3. In a small bowl, add the sugar and lemon zest. Use your fingers to rub the zest into the sugar until it is fragrant. Add the lemon sugar to the dry ingredients and mix well.

4. In a medium bowl, beat together the eggs, buttermilk, butter, lemon juice, and vanilla. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and stir just until combined. Stir in the poppy seeds. 5. Spoon about ¾ cup (175 mL) onto the hot waffle iron. I use an ice cream scoop for this. Close the top and cook until the waffles are golden on both sides and release easily from the waffle iron. Place waffles on an oven-safe platter and keep warm in a 200º F oven while you make the rest of the waffles.

2. Using the largest holes on a box grater, shred the potatoes onto a clean tea towel. Gather the ends of the towel together and thoroughly wring out the excess potato liquid into the sink. Transfer the shredded potatoes to a large mixing bowl and add the egg, remaining butter, salt, and pepper. Mix to combine, then press the potato mixture into the prepared pie plate, evenly covering the bottom and the sides.

6. Serve the waffles warm with plenty of

butter, whipped cream, maple syrup, and fresh fruit.

Smoked Salmon, Asparagus, Goat Cheese, and Dill Quiche with Hash Brown Crust Serves 6.

Classic quiche gets an update with a hash brown-style crust, which is a little lighter than traditional pastry and a fabulous option for those with gluten sensitivities. For the crust: 3 Tbs (45 mL) butter, melted 2 large russet potatoes, peeled 1 large egg, lightly beaten ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper For the Filling: 4 large eggs ¾ cup (175 mL) whole milk ½ cup (125 mL) heavy cream 3 Tbs finely chopped fresh dill 2 tsp lemon zest ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 225 g fresh asparagus, ends trimmed and the rest chopped into ½ cm pieces 125 g goat cheese, crumbled 90 g smoked salmon, chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 425º F. Brush the

bottom and sides of a deep dish 23 cm pie plate with some of the melted butter and set aside.

3. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the

potatoes are set and golden brown. Remove the pie plate from the oven and turn the oven temperature down to 325º F.

4. Using the same mixing bowl (give it a wipe with some paper towel first), whisk together the eggs, milk, cream, dill, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. 5. Place the asparagus on the bottom of the potato crust (I save the pretty spear ends for after the egg mixture is poured on top), and evenly scatter the goat cheese and smoked salmon. Pour the egg mixture over and place the asparagus spear ends on top. 6. Bake the quiche for 40-45 minutes or until the centre is set, slightly puffed and golden brown. Let the quiche rest for 15 minutes before slicing and serving. Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 21


Quails' Gate Vineyard

Hot Okanagan:

Choosing Your Own Adventure By JEANNETTE LEBLANC

Wine is experiential. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finding a new favourite while dining out or planning a pilgrimage to the source, we absorb wine knowledge differently from other consumables. 22 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019


With many winery experiences competing for our attention, it can be challenging to find the right fit for where we’re at in our wine journey. At the start of wine tour season, those in the industry prepare for a multitude of requests seeking tips on where to go. They can be tough for your wine friend to answer. What type of wine do you drink? How much do you know about wine? And most important: what kind of winery experience do you want? Making suggestions can be tricky, largely because wine is experiential and so subjective. The Okanagan has hundreds of wineries to help you build your own wine adventure. From beyond its northern boundaries into Kamloops and down to the southern border in Osoyoos (literally at the U.S. border), there are wineries for all levels of knowledge. If you do a teeny bit of work beforehand, you increase your odds of having a remarkable experience.

How much do you know about wine?

What do you drink? Wine is like television: we talk about the great documentary we saw last week but we binge watch Schitt’s Creek. To get the

most out of a winery visit, be honest: if a documentary is that tannin-driven cabernet sauvignon and Schitt’s Creek a mediumbodied gamay but you regularly drink gamay, you might be best served at wineries that specialize in the latter. Still add one or two others, for educational documentary purposes. How much do you know about wine? Wine can seem intimidating but when we find a winery that explains things for us just so, wine can also be a great connector. Too little information provided and you can be easily distracted; too much information and you’ll feel overwhelmed. Choose wineries that speak your language. What kind of experience do you want? Regardless (almost) of what you like to drink or how much you know about wine, the best winery experience for you is one that offers something you want. Choose to be guided or go at your own pace, but look for wineries that offer what’s of interest to you. From beginner to enthusiast to collector, there’s a wine adventure with your name on it. Happy exploring.

Wine 101: beginnings

If you’re new to wine, start at wineries with a broad selection that offer a learning experience. You want wineries large enough to take on fundamental educational pieces, like an overview of the winemaking process from vineyard to bottle. Most tasting rooms

Terravista

Singer and Pianist every Thursday from 7:00pm - 10:00pm Jazz Quartet every third Thurday of the month No cover charge

It’s that time of year! We are gearing up for a great season on the patio. Come out and enjoy some delicious food and cocktails while taking in the sun. ta


and Jackson-Triggs, and Nk’Mip Cellars. It has regional information on the walls and offers several experiences, from a daily wine flight to guided Portfolio Room Tastings (reservations required). Red Rooster Winery on the Naramata Bench has drop-in tastings at the bar plus daily Sensory Room guided tastings to walk you through the wine tasting experience and help you make sense of what’s in your glass. Advance booking is required.

Wine 201: for the enthusiast

Quails' Gate charge a small fee, often refunded on purchase. Take advantage of these seasoned wine producers and the educational aspects they offer. Mission Hill Family Estate, in West Kelowna, offers the full meal deal, from the typical tasting bar to hour-long guided experiences and tours – including the vineyard and even the barrel cellar –finishing with a guided tasting. Advance booking is required. Quails’ Gate, in West Kelowna, provides a drop-in tasting experience plus one-hour tours that speak to history, go into the estate vineyard, and offer a glimpse of production to show you how wine is made. Advance booking is recommended.

Choose wineries that speak your language

Wine Experience Centre – Great Estates of the Okanagan, in Penticton, represents several house brands in one place such as See Ya Later Ranch, Sumac Ridge, Inniskillin 24 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

You’re familiar with technical terms like whole-cluster fermentation or traditional method and understand how wine is made. Perhaps you once talked brix levels with a winemaker and can identify chardonnay in a blind tasting. You know your palate and can ask vinification questions to help you better understand a wine’s profile. Often but not always, medium-sized producers have owners or winemakers a few steps removed from the tasting room. Smaller teams get opportunity to interact, enjoy sharing details with winery visitors, and often take appointments for those wanting a bit more time when making more substantial purchases.

classic meritage (red or white), viognier, chardonnay, and signature red blend Chronos. Moon Curser Vineyards in Osoyoos dates back to 2004 when the team was mainly owners Chris and Beata Tolley under the original name Twisted Tree. White wines of note include Afraid of the Dark (viognier/ roussanne/marsanne) and an arneis. The fun here is with red wine grapes not as easily grown in cooler climates: carmenere, dolcetto, malbec, tannat, tempranillo, and touriga nacional. Varietally accurate, but coolly expressed. Okanagan Crush Pad, in Summerland, uses concrete vessels, leans to natural styles, and advocates for responsible farming. The three house brands Narrative, Haywire, and Free Form, give winemaker Matt Dumayne and his team a chance to experiment with things like clay amphorae. Haywire’s Waters & Banks Pinot Noir will persuade you of the

8th Generation Vineyard, in Summerland, farms three vineyards (Summerland, Okanagan Falls, and Naramata Bench) and takes seriously their commitment to ecological management. The Schales family has grown grapes and made wine in Germany for generations. GM Stefanie and winemaker Berndt focus on riesling in three styles, offer a delicious white or pink Frizzante, and pinot noir is a solid contender to cellar. TIME Winery is downtown Penticton in what once was the town’s movie house, with the original theatres operating as beautiful, yet functional, rooms for fermentation and cellaring. History here goes deep: legendary BC wine name Harry McWatters leads the charge, and winemakers Graham Pierce and Nadine Allander work the cellar. Between them they know the sub-regions well and it shows. Shining stars include the TIME Winery Tasting room


benefits of concrete, and the Free Form Vin Gris is a beautiful example of how cool climate pinot noir can shine with whole bunch pressing and hands-off fermentation. Stag’s Hollow Vineyards in Okanagan Falls has quietly been on the radar of those who know since BC wine came into the spotlight. Linda Pruegger and Larry Gerelus purchased a ten-acre vineyard in 1995 and dove in. They now farm two sites: Stag’s Hollow has 20+ year old merlot and pinot noir, and the newer Shuttleworth Creek includes albarino, tempranillo, dolcetto, and teroldego. Winemaker Keira LeFranc worked the tasting room to the crush pad before taking the wheel in the cellar in 2017. Watch for this rising star. Wine 301: for collectors and extra credit You can comfortably use terms like carbonic maceration and ask about the dosage of a traditional method sparkling wine. There’s a good chance you’ve visited one or more wine regions, and friends often look to you when choosing a special occasion bottle. You research before you go and book appointments at wineries of interest. Whether it’s a large or small producer, the importance here is finding wines to suit your taste. Hot Okanagan recommendations along these lines in the past have included Bella Wines and Synchromesh Wines (both by appointment only). If you liked those, then these are your people.

TH Wines Lariana Cellars, in Osoyoos, is a hidden gem now, but not for long. Dan and Carol Scott farm five acres of viognier, cabernet sauvignon, and carmenere on the Canada/ U.S. border. Focus is the key word: the portfolio consists of the varietal wines and a red blend named for each vintage. At just over 1,000 cases, this is small lot production in its original meaning. Call in advance and buy in multiples.

of Bordeaux to the vineyard and husband Dylan studied winemaking in the Côte-d'Or and Chablis. They farm a growing six-acre home vineyard and another 15 acres nearby. Barrel fermented pinot gris and ‘Tradition’ chardonnay link their French roots to BC freshness, and ‘Tradition’ pinot noir gives seemingly effortless voice to classic elegance in an otherworldly symphony. Make time here.

Terravista Vineyards, in Naramata, is the heart song of winemaker Senka Tenant and her husband Bob. Foundational visionaries in the BC wine community, they focus on albariño, verdejo, roussanne, and viognier. Small production in custom oval stainless steel tanks or concrete eggs is part of what gives context to these varieties as grown in BC, and made by Senka’s experienced hands. Book an appointment and purchase by the case.

Fairview Cellars, in Oliver, is the quintessential winery for collectors seeking premium wines. Owner, grower, and winemaker Bill Eggert farms ten acres on the Golden Mile Bench where he focuses on cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot. Varietal-specific wines speak to terroir and the complexity of blends can be discovered several ways. Watch for one-offs like grüner veltliner and Runcutter Rosé, the latter produced and named for Bill’s brother Chuck. Dedicated collectors are advised to make an appointment.

Roche Wines, in Naramata, exemplifies what it means to be internationally Okanagan. Pénélope brings six generations

Jeannette LeBlanc lives in B.C. wine country, with access to plenty of research material - and a large cellar.

Illustration by Red Pine Design

AUGUST 17 2019

COUNTRY MARKET 10 AM to 4 PM LONG TABLE DINNER 6 PM to 9 PM

FEATURING LOCAL PRODUCERS & ARTISANS AT

HORSESHOE CANYON

Growi ng Kne e hi ll

COUNTRY MARKET

Long Table Dinner Tickets $100

And Long Table Dinner

TICKET INFORMATION: https://growingkneehill2019 .eventbrite.ca

www.kneehillcounty.com

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 25


Opening Our Eyes to Canola Oil by LEILANI OLYNIK 

Ask just about anyone to pass the EVOO and they’ll know that you’re talking about the Extra Virgin Olive Oil. It’s the primo pick for many, sitting on the counter at-the-ready to be used for cooking, dressings, marinades and more. It’s hard to compete with the virtuoso of EVOO, but Canada does have an oil that rivals even the best olive oil.

26 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

With origins reaching as far back as preWWII when engineers were striving to reserve fuel and find grease for machines, they turned to rapeseed oil. It doesn’t mix with water whatsoever, so it made for a great oil to grease steam engines.

to educate us on the benefits of adding Canola oil to our daily routines. She has a degree in human nutrition and has been farming with her husband for 25 years.

At the end of the war, there was a surplus, but it tasted horrible and was so bitter that even animals wouldn’t eat the rapeseed meal. Canadian scientists in Saskatchewan and Manitoba worked tirelessly, and used traditional selection methods to breed a plant that would produce a healthy, edible oil product; and so Canola was born.

She shared her wealth of knowledge to enlighten us on the full value of appreciating this locally grown, healthy product that supports a sustainable agricultural economy. “Can” as in Canada and “ola” as in oil, is grown all across our beautiful country by Canadian farmers and it’s processed in Canada too. It’s on every shelf in every grocery store, but is it in your pantry?

Tanya Pidsadowski has been with the Alberta Canola Council for 5 years, and is dedicated to engaging with the public

Canola oil is a beautifully balanced, nutritious oil. It’s rich in omega-6 and omega-3 essential fatty acids, low in


saturated fat, and is a source of vitamins E and K. But it’s not just nutritious, it’s extremely versatile too. Its mild flavour allows it to be an exceptional carrier for other flavours, making it a great choice for salad dressings, marinades, cooking, even baking. If that wasn’t enough, it also boasts a high smoke point so it can stand up to the heat of searing and frying. And it’s very affordable. You can use that oil for errrrything!

warmed slightly to encourage oil extraction and enhance the crushing process. Cold-pressed Canola oil is best used as a finishing touch and in dishes where you can appreciate and applaud the flavour of the oil. Canola is remarkably stable, making it useful in a variety of food products, like mayonnaise, coffee whitener, cake mixes, and bread. But it can also be found in places you’d probably never guess. It’s an effective component in printer ink, airplane de-icer, dust depressants, and plastic wrap. The canola meal that remains after the seed has been pressed and the oil extracted, makes for nutritious livestock feed and fertilizer.

Looking for an oil that can contend with EVOO in flavour, aroma, and colour? Cold-pressed canola oil is a high-quality local product that celebrates the prairies. Many believe that you can detect the terroir of cold-pressed Canola much like that of wine. Highwood Crossing and Mountainview Farm both produce a premium canola oil that is cold-pressed (meaning the seeds are not heated and do not come in contact with any other products), in contrast to mainstream Canola seeds that are

And if you’re a mindful consumer (and we’re sure you are), then you’ll be pleased to learn that local farmers are committed to protecting the land. There are 14,000 Canola farmers in Alberta alone producing some of the best Canola in the world. They employ agronomic practices to bring soil back to a nutrient-rich state so that the land is healthy enough to produce superior crops year over year. This crop efficiency means there is less tillage of the soil allowing the ground to capture and sequester more carbon, thereby releasing less into the atmosphere.

These farming practices allow for highyielding, nutritious crops with a tiny environmental footprint. Canada has such superb, safe farming practices that we produce far more than we can consume. Canadian farms export 90% of the Canola we grow, injecting billions of dollars into our economy. Canola oil is a nutritious, local product that celebrates and honours our land in a safe and profitable way. Its widespread utility makes it useful in countless applications. It’s budget-friendly and widely available so everyone can enjoy it. And Alberta produces exceptional artisanal varieties too. I’m ready to swap out my EVOO for Canola oil, are you?

Wife, mother, and food lover, Leilani has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. She can be found buzzing around Calgary Farmers’ Market as their Marketing and Events Specialist.

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 27


Craft Cider: A Revival… by LINDA GARSON AND TOM FIRTH

Now Alberta has become firmly established as an ideal location for breweries and distillers, what’s next for our province’s local beverages? Could it be cideries? Cider can be made in any brewery from bought apple juice, or brewed under contract, but to make craft cider you need to own your own cidery and brew in small batches from apples, with little to no carbonation. And we’re just starting to see a revival…

Alberta’s first craft cidery opened last summer - Calgary’s Elite Brewing & Cidery, who source all their fruit from B.C. and make small batches of around 1,200 litres, and switch them up once they’re gone. Elite produce three different ciders each month, all dry and extra dry, and averaging 6.2 percent ABV. The only constant is Kitty Hawk Extra Dry, a deliciously refreshing and easy to drink cider with yeasty undertones, that was so popular with the locals, it had to stay on the list. A world away from standard sweet ciders, currently you’ll find: Area 51 County Harvest, a new invention trial keg that is apple-y, fruity, and with vanilla notes; Rising Sun, subtle and bright with blackberry, raspberry and cranberry; and Bunker Buster, a mouth-wateringly crisp and refreshing raspberry cider. Fill your 32 oz growler for $11 and $16 for 64 oz, or drink (and eat!) in the brewery.

Launched last November, Lekker Cider use only Pacific Northwest apples, pressing them in situ and bringing the fresh juice back to Calgary to be fermented. Seven varieties of Yakima Valley dessert apples are pressed to make each cider. Dry Hopped Bru starts dry and then the tart sweetness of fresh apple juice comes into play, complementing the citrus from the hops. CSPC +809840 473 mL $5 +817204 (355 mL) $4 And watch out for new flavours and styles: heritage series unfiltered Pippin’s Bru made from only Newton Pippin apples CSPC +814493 $9-$10, and Eiland Guava Bru blended with fresh guava. CSPC +817205 (355 mL) $4 Alberta’s newest cidery, SunnyCider, has a fruit donor program for wasted urban apples, pears, cherries, and berries, and turns them into cider. It’s about community and neighbours, and we’re excited for their new facility opening this month in Calgary on 14 Avenue NE. But you can buy Batch #1 in Calgary and Edmonton liquor stores; it’s a totally apple-y cider made from Granny Smith, Red Delicious, Gala, Spartan, and Mac Okanagan apples and comes with a swing top - an orchard in a glass. CSPC +815921 (500 mL) $12 Perhaps one of the best known craft cideries in Calgary, Uncommon Cider is making a wide range of products including the very tasty blend of apple and haskap showcasing what a little fruit can do with cider. CSPC +795421 (500 mL) $12-14. Uncommon is perhaps best loved for their fruit drives which also source fruit from Calgarians in support of the Calgary Food Bank.

28 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019


Have You Entered Your Wine, Beers, and Spirits Yet? Registration Deadline June 28 Judging Takes Place July 15â&#x20AC;&#x201C;17

Visit culinairemagazine.ca/aba to enter your wines, beers, and spirits for the 2019 Alberta Beverage Awards.

For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca

culinairemagazine.ca/aba

sponsors: Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 29


Park Distillery

Alberta Craft Distillers In Good Spirits

by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

Alberta, of course, has no shortage grain producers. Those vast fields that stretch towards Saskatchewan are most often associated with the wheat used to make our bread or the canola that becomes our cooking oil.

scene has changed considerably in recent years, and not purely because of changing tastes or consumer trends.

But a portion of Alberta’s grain is destined to become something much more mood altering than a loaf of sourdough or a bowl of barley risotto. Grain, after all, is the base ingredient in alcohol.

Previously, provincial laws only allowed for corporate liquor manufacturers making mass quantities of product, but new regulations that came about in late 2013 meant that smaller batch producers could set up for business in Alberta.

Distilling isn’t a new industry in Alberta — Alberta Distillers, manufacturers of Alberta Premium, have been operating in Calgary for upwards of 70 years, but the local spirits

These regulations made for the explosion of craft breweries in Alberta, but we’ve also seen more than a few entrepreneurs take on craft spirits. Eau Claire Distillery,

30 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

located in Turner Valley, was heavily involved in the lobbying effort to change the regulations, putting it in a position to be first out of the gate as Alberta’s first official independent craft distillery. Since then, craft distilleries have been cropping up from Fort Saskatchewan to Banff and everywhere in between. David Farran, Eau Claire’s president and founder, is also the president of the Alberta Craft Distillery Association. Farran says that the Association currently has just over 30 members — significantly fewer than the over 100 craft breweries in the province. Farran


says that the spirits industry is growing at a slower pace for a number of reasons.

a wonderful opportunity to be reflective of what we make.”

“Compared to breweries it has a fairly high capital cost because you kind of have to have a brewery first,” Farran says. “The process involves taking your grain, brewing a distiller's beer, and then distilling it. So really, you're doubling your capital costs by having the distillery on top of a brewery. That's keeping a fair number of people out because it's more expensive to get into the game.”

The development of the craft industry has allowed for tremendous creativity — Albertans are seeing things like Eau Claire’s cherry gin and Prickly Pear EquineOx, Calgary’s Burwood Distillery’s honey liqueur, Raw Distillery from Canmore’s peppercorn gin, Rig Hand from Nisku’s haskap vodka, and a number of other artisanal flavours that big liquor manufacturers would never dream of producing.

That said, eager Alberta distillers have been making a go of it. While artisanal spirits has become a worldwide trend, Albertans are at a significant advantage because of the easy access to the grain. The Canadian prairies supply Scottish distilleries with the barley used to make some of the finest Scotch whiskies in the world as well the rye for almost all of North America’s rye whiskies — with such coveted ingredients in our backyard, it only makes sense in this farm-to-table world that we’d also be going farm-to-glass with local products. “Alberta should be the Mecca for spirits production because we live in the place where some of the best grain is produced,” Farran says. “If you think about how liquor in Europe developed, it was always something that reflected the regional produce. If it was grapes that were growing, you would have a nice wine. With our grain production, Alberta has

Yannis Karlos of Banff’s Park Distillery says that craft distilleries are in a unique position to experiment. “I feel like we can be a bit more nimble,” Karlos says. “We're a small team and the process that goes from brainstorming to approval to execution can take place in a matter of a few days.” One thing that takes a bit longer, of course, is the process of making craft whisky — which needs to age in barrels for at least three years, but as Karlos points out, just because three years is the rule, the whisky may need longer to age to hit quality standards. While many young distilleries choose not to barrel age because of the additional costs, we will start to see more and more whiskies as the industry ages, as well as increased interest from the public in the subtle differences that come with the craft process.

At this point though, consumer awareness may be the craft spirits industry’s greatest hurdle. Convincing the masses that a $50 bottle of craft gin is worth buying over a standard bottom shelf bottle at half the price is no easy feat, and while Farran cautions that the spirits business will never see the same kind of revolution that the breweries are experiencing, both he and Karlos are optimistic for the future. “I think the sky's the limit,” Karlos says. “Look at the craft distilling industry in the U.S. It's really grown and when you compare ourselves to that, we're just really starting out. As consumers become more aware of the products and the quality of what's being produced, you're going to see it really grow up.” Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

A mouthwatering menu to satisfy all tastes.

WHEN YOU COOK FOR THE PEOPLE AND NOT THE AWARDS, YOU WIN OVER THE PEOPLE AND EARN THE AWARDS

Drawing inspiration from the west coast, rooting it in the Canadian Rockies, and infusing the local tastes of the prairies, award-winning Chef Dave Bohati is changing the way Albertan’s love food at Murietta’s Bar & Grill Canmore and Calgary locations. Serving intimate gatherings and supporting large events, our innovative, fresh dishes please the palates of locals and visitors alike, making each meal a memorable one.

200 – 808 1st Street SW, Calgary | 403-269-7707 200 – 737 Main Street, Canmore | 403-609-9500 murrietas.ca | ? @


Spirits: White Lightning by TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

Sure, maybe we weren’t all reaching for the white stuff during the (endless) winter months, but as the weather turns, and we start kicking back in the great outdoors – after a run, or a marathon session of gardening of course, you may want to relax with a tipple or a cocktail while reflecting on your efforts. This month, we have an assortment of locally made white spirits that might be perfect for whetting that whistle. Or for treating your mom to her favourite gin fizz – while gin is traditionally known as Mother’s Ruin, she’ll be spoiled with these!

Burwood Distillery Medica Honey Liqueur

Okay, so not really a spirit, but this is something special. Medica is a European honey liqueur typically from Croatia, and also made right here in Alberta. At 28 percent alcohol it’s quite sippable on its own, letting

32 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

that Alberta-made honey shine through with some sweetness and spiciness. Goes really well with some tea or in cocktails that might benefit from a touch of sweetness. Love this stuff! CSPC +812447 $50

Wild Life Distillery Gin

A recent “Gold with Distinction” winner at the 2019 Canadian Artisan Spirit Competition and “Best in Class” at the 2018 Alberta Beverage Award, Wild Life has accomplished quite a bit in the few short years it’s been operating. The gin, damn good, with a little sweetness on the nose, but clean (and intense) aromatics on the palate. Love gin? Use in a cocktail that will show the flavours off. CSPC +790937 $52

Strathcona Spirits Single Grain Wheat Vodka

Call us old fashioned, but for many, vodka should be smooth, but never flavourless. Strathcona’s vodka, sourced from local wheat barely a stone’s throw from the distillery, is one of the best out there. Light, and oh-so-smooth, with mild tropical aromas and a clean flavour. Absolutely delicious for sure. CSPC +787817 $48

Eau Claire Distillery Saskatoon Honey Gin

Saskatoon Honey Gin is Eau Claire Distillery’s new seasonal release, and an Alberta variation on British favourite, sloe gin, made by steeping sloe berries with gin and sugar. Eau Claire have paired Saskatoon berries from The Saskatoon Farm and honey from Chinook Honey, and along with rose hips, Alberta malted barley, and classic gin botanicals, produced this unctuous, mouth-filling gin that is both sweet and tart, and very more-ish. CSPC +813507 $58.00

Old Prairie Sentinel Berry Dry Gin

More local ingredients are making their mark in Old Prairie Sentinel’s Berry Dry Gin; Saskatoon Berries join forces with raspberries and blackcurrants here. Distilled malted barley provides a little sweetness, and you’ll be aware of a hint of black tea on the mid palate and citrus from the lemon peel to finish. Berry Dry Gin is a beautiful sipping gin for those cooler spring days – and it’s one for gin purists. Martini for me please! CSPC +788196 $49


International award winning artist Lorraine Shulba Thank you in for more great feedback on our Concept for this special six course pairing specializing pairingcommissions dinners. We love the opportunity winemaker dinner. $87.50++ custom bring to meet you at these events, and hear colour into your world. for your home.

:: M ay/ J u n e C u l i n ai re V i n e & D i n e Se ri e s : :

love your home!

your thoughts and suggestions for future dinners, articles, and topics you’d like to her Check see inout Culinaire!

portfolio!

We’re happy to announce our May and June Calgary evenings here. Just email linda@culinairemagazine.ca or call 403-870-9802 to reserve your places.

ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen

Friday May 24 Every one of our evenings at ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen’s beautiful new Lincoln Park home has been outstanding. Join us for a six-course pairing dinner, with recipes and cooking demonstrations, and secrets from the best!

We look forward to seeing you soon. Stein & Dine at Prairie Dog @BlueBugStudiosLShulbaArtistDesigner 780-919-9627 Cheers! Brewing @lorraine_shulba_artist Sunday May 26 Murrieta’s We’re at Prairie Dog Brewing for a short Wednesday May 1, Tuesday May 14, and brewery tour, and six pairing courses of Tuesday May 28 Texas-style BBQ, with slow-roasted and We’re excited for our three nights at smoked meats prepared in Prairie Dog’s Murrieta’s in May, where we’ll savour six big red BBQ pit/smoker. $68.50++ paired courses of award-winning Executive Chef Dave Bohati’s fabulous menu in our All events are 6:30-9:00, and unless private dining room! otherwise mentioned, are $78.75 per person + grats & gst.

One-Off Special Winemaker Dinner, Foreign Concept

Wednesday May 22 Claudio Viberti has travelled from northwest Italy to tell us stories of the Barolo region and his family’s highly awarded Piemonte cellars for one night only at highly acclaimed Foreign

and in June… Fine Japanese Tea Tasting

Sunday June 9, 3:00-5:00pm It’s a special Sunday afternoon when certified tea sommelier and Japanese Tea Ambassador to Canada, Michiko Ono,

takes us through six very different fine teas, with Japa Café’s superb tea snacks. $38.75 ++

Allora

Monday June 10, Tuesday June 18, and Monday June 24 We have three nights for you to choose from to discover and enjoy the brand new Allora Everyday Italian, Calgary’s newest Italian restaurant. Everything here is local, handmade (including their speciality – gluten-free pasta!), or directly imported from Italy.

www.LSHULBA.com

Special One-Off Winemaker Dinner, Murrieta’s

Friday June 14 We’re thrilled and honoured to have Chile’s famous winemaker, Marcelo Papa, here with us for one very special night at Murrieta’s. We’re enjoying the fruits of his labour over a special four course pairing meal with welcome reception, including Chile’s first icon wine – Don Melchor! $120 including gratuity and gst. For details and to reserve your places in Calgary, visit culinairemagazine.ca/events. Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca, 403-870-9802

! your home love colour into your world. bring

International award winning artist Lorraine Shulba specializing in custom commissions for your home. @BlueBugStudiosLShulbaArtistDesigner @lorraine_shulba_artist 33

Check out her portfolio!

www.LSHULBA.com


Craft Beverages Continue to Grow in Alberta by DAVID NUTTALL photographs courtesy ALBERTA BARLEY

craft noun- an activity involving skill in making things by hand. verb - exercise skill in making (something). according to the Oxford English Dictionary

They started appearing on Alberta liquor store shelves a couple of years ago, viz. specialty spirits, beers, ciders, meads, and wines from local producers. Alberta had not seen new distilleries since the mid1970s, and no one knew what mead is, other than it was seemingly the Vikings’ favourite drink, so this was indeed a shock to a couple of new generations. Sure, there had been a trickle of new craft breweries since 1985, and the occasional fruit winery and meadery popped up here and there, but distilleries always seemed to be in the realm of the multinational corporation. Let’s face it; they advertise on television, in magazines, at sporting events – almost everywhere. This is not a game for tiny three or four person enterprises. However, nobody seems to be building any multi-acre sized distilleries or breweries anymore. Thanks mainly due to government restrictions enacted in the 1910-20s (at least in North America), only a handful of hard liquor companies originated in the twentieth century and new breweries didn’t start

appearing until the 1980s. Boutique wineries began in B.C. around that same time, but for obvious reasons, Alberta did not become the next Napa Valley. Nonetheless, fruit wineries arrived early this century and mead has now become an alternative beverage, even if most people still don’t know what it is or how it is made. Cideries are just beginning to get their locations built in 2019. During the last century, Alberta had, at most, three distilleries, eight breweries and two wineries (anybody remember Andrés and Andrew Wolf Wines?). Once the laws changed in late 2013, the explosion began, and the province is now home to 29 distilleries, 110 breweries and 12 estate manufacturers (AGLC-speak for meaderies, cideries, and wineries) and counting.

34 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019


Continued advancement in sensible government regulations has helped improve the playing field and the province’s liquor landscape has changed forever. While Alberta may have come late to the party, this kind of growth has pretty much been constant across most of Canada and in almost every state south of us intent on shaking off the shackles of Prohibition. All these new ventures are the very definition of craft. Yes, machines do some of the work, but most operations are manned by less than five people and occupy spaces smaller than a movie theatre. Coincidentally, the first new distillery to get a license in Alberta in over 40 years, Eau Claire Distillery in Turner Valley, is in an old movie theatre and dance hall.

Labeled “glutenfree” means having less than 20 ppm of gluten

As with many new industries, a large number of other firsts have transpired; first distillery ever in Edmonton (Strathcona Spirits Distillery), first meadery (Chinook Arch Meadery, Okotoks), first cidery (Uncommon Cidery, Calgary), first ever estate winery (Field Stone Fruit Wines, Strathmore), and every brewery built in a place not named Edmonton, Calgary, Lethbridge, Medicine Hat, or Red Deer, is the first brewery in that town. Craft is a word that may mean a more personal involvement with production, but it also defines size. By definition, all craft associations have limits on how big an establishment

LIFE IS BETTER IN THE ROCKIES

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 35


more have also arrived. These products can be sold anywhere, and consumers appreciate their quality and more natural ingredients. Some have even shown up in national chain supermarkets.

Craft is a word that may mean a more personal involvement with production

can be, how much they can produce, where their head offices are located, and even who is part of the ownership group. This is all in an effort to separate craft businesses from the conglomerates that dominate manufacturing worldwide. In addition, craft producers enjoy an affiliation

36 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

with their region by not only sourcing as many ingredients as possible from local suppliers, but also cultivating a relationship with the community as well. This craft beverage culture has moved beyond just the sphere of alcohol. Craft sodas, syrups, tinctures, bitters, juices, and

The bar and cocktail scenes have had a parallel growth, pairing these craft alcohols and mixers together to create unique libations. Because they offer a greater variety of local or unusual ingredients than the mainstream varieties, mixologists are delving into flavour profiles hitherto unexplored.


Recent regulation changes now allow bars and restaurants to mix liquor products with ingredients such as spices, herbs, and fruits, to create exclusive house-aged liquor products. The level of crafting has now migrated right into the bartender’s hands. The winner in all this is the consumer. The efforts of these companies are directed to more than just propping up the local economy or trying to make a living - there

are easier ways to make money than starting up a craft beverage business. However, the people behind them have a belief in, and a passion for, what they are doing. Their obvious devotion to their craft also provides a kinship with local suppliers, a rapport within the community, and a connection to the consumer. You owe it to yourself to try as many locally made craft spirits, beers, meads, wines, ciders,

non-alcoholic mixers, amari, and, yes, cocktails as you can. You won’t have to travel far, the experience will be worth it, and your taste buds will thank you.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.

PRINCESS CRUISES INFORMATION NIGHT Monday, May 27 | 6:30pm - 8:30pm Holiday Inn 8360 Blackfoot Trail SE, Calgary It’s time for our biggest sale of the year - Princess Cruises is back with unbeatable offers! Book select sailings from June 6 - 8 for free drinks, free gratuities, $50 onboard cash credit, and up to $750 savings in onboard coupons!* Register with one of our Calgary locations today!

Airdrie (587) 600 7707

Aspen Landing (403) 717 9223

403 Mackenzie Way SW, Unit 7126, Airdrie

135, 333 Aspen Glen Landing SW, Calgary

Chestermere (403) 263 3500

Chinook (403) 252 5520

16, 140 East Chestermere Drive, Chestermere

145, 9919 Fairmount Drive SE, Calgary

Dalhousie Station (403) 208 3743

Fish Creek (403) 278 7447

727, 5005 Dalhousie Drive NW, Calgary

25, 11440 Braeside Drive SW, Calgary

*Offers are per stateroom based on double occupancy on select sailings and vary by cruise line, destination, departure date & stateroom category. Valid for new bookings created and deposited June 6-8, 2019 and are subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Additional restrictions apply. Contact us for full terms and conditions.

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 37


Making The Case: Springing into Summer by TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON Maybe we are just a little too optimistic, but after that wonderful winter of the “Polar Vortex”, Albertans deserve a hot, sunny, and outdoor worthy summer. Sure, summer doesn’t start for a while yet, but that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy evenings (or early afternoons) on the deck or patio, sipping great wine while the grilling is underway. This month, we look to international wines from the United States, Italy, France, Germany and beyond that are well-suited to a variety of cuisines and dishes when summer is calling, but maybe…. not quite here yet. Heck, does anyone in Alberta ever go out without a coat handy? Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Fontella 2015 Chianti, Tuscany Classically structured with bright, dominant fruits and healthy acids – perfect for those tomato-based sauces or something beefy. Perhaps a little mild on the initial taste, the tannins creep in with richer fruits mid-palate onwards. This would be perfect on one of those not quite winter/not quite spring days we Albertans know so well. CSPC +730108 About $13-15

Diving Into Hampton Water Rosé 2017 Languedoc, France From the gracefully aging Jon Bon Jovi and his son Jesse, with a lot of help from winemaker Gerard Bertrand, whose wines we already love here, this bright and unctuous, fruity blend of grenache, cinsault and mourvèdre grapes from the south of France is just delicious - and you’ll want to keep the bottle with it’s sexy glass stopper and patterned punt. CSPC +804223 $28-$30

Robert Biale 2017 Royal Punishers Rutherford, Napa Valley If you love varietal petit sirah, this is a tight, dense, luscious treasure. A nearly magical bottle to assail the senses with black fruits, floral notes, and haymaker-worthy tannins. They’ll knock you out. This wine is a beautiful monster. Drinking well now but will improve over the next ten years or so, try matching with the most beautiful, wellmarbled cut of beef you can find. CSPC +782083 $50-55 or so 38 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 38


Toscolo 2015 Chianti Classico, Tuscany Finely balanced with excellent depth of fruit, but also tar and earthy herbal characters on nose and palate. Personally, I love the blacker fruits and tarriness that differentiate this from some other Chianti Classico I’ve tried recently. Think of braised meats or something with lots of mushrooms. CSPC +606111 About $22-24

Louis Guntrum Pinot Noir 2016 Rheinhessen, Germany

Maison Champy 2017 Clos de Bully Pernand-Vergelesse, Burgundy, France

In the early 1900s, German wines from the Rhein were more expensive than First Growth Bordeaux. But times change, and we win by it as we now have access to some great value wines, like this light and fruity, elegant pinot noir. Fresh and lively, with a hint of mint and clove, it makes an ideal partner for charcuterie. CSPC +804194 $25

A lovely bottle that had slipped off my radar for a few years, but what a treat to rediscover - tart cherry tones with cedar chip, cane and mild tomato with herb aromas. Lightly bodied with great earthiness tempering the fruit. Pairing should be easy, as this should go with any hot day when red meat is on the grill. CSPC +717043 $38-40

Robert Biale 2017 Black Chicken Zinfandel, Napa Valley

Viberti Giovanni 2015 Nebbiolo, Langhe Piemonte, Italy

Stonestreet Estate Chardonnay 2016 Alexander Valley, Sonoma County

Zinfandel is painfully overlooked in the pantheon of red grapes. What makes it so good is what scares people away. Deep and dense with blueberry and cherry fruits, and brambly, wild berry fruits offset by spice and zingy acids. Think of homemade burgers, flank steak with chimichurri, or my favourite zin match – pepperoni pizza. CSPC +781543 $50-55 or so

Nebbiolo is a treat for the senses, showcasing wildly intense black cherries and cranberry fruits on the nose. Not too dark in the glass, but bold and black characters dominate the palate (think charred wood, tomato, and liquorice root) with some hefty tannins. Delicious - pair with roasts, game meats, or a fine cheese board. CSPC +791198 $28-30

“Stonestreet” is the middle name of three generations of the Jackson family, and is a mountain estate producing only three premium, single vineyard wines. This chardonnay is California showing its best, opening with lemon zest, apricots, and a little dill, that follow through to the textured palate. You’ll be hungry for roast chicken dinner and Moroccan spice chickpea dishes. CSPC +734896 $28-30

Domaine de Terra Vecchia NV Biancu Gentile, Corsica, France

Louis Guntrum Riesling Brut 2014 Rheinhessen, Germany

Hiedler Gruner Veltliner Loss 2017 Kamptal, Austria

Corsican wine? You bet, while generally unknown on our shores (and not that common even to the French), the island is well suited to viticulture with nine appellations. The grape here is biancu gentile, look for crisp, mineralladen aromas with citrus and stone fruits, while to taste it has wonderful salinity and mineral expression. Match with simply prepared seafoods or sashimi. CSPC +802273 $18-$19

Sekt is not a wine term much talked about here, but it’s made in exactly the same way as champagne, and Alberta is the only place outside Germany to have Guntrum’s. Its secret is that it spends 3½ years on its lees, giving it time to mature and develop the apple skin flavour, and the rich and fruity, rounded and balanced acidity. Only 6,000 bottled made and ideal for Mother’s day! CSPC +810697 $25

May heralds the start of our short asparagus season, so stock up on Austrian grüner veltliner - the answer to the question I’m always asked, “what wine goes with asparagus?” Hiedler family’s organic grüner is a deliciously soft and creamy wine with citrus-peachy aromas, and mouthwatering pear with a white pepper finish. Would be wonderful with ripe Brie… CSPC +761804 $23-$24

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 39


Etcetera... Wild Tea Kombucha Low Sugar Soda, Cola with Elderberry

T & A Spice Company We love trying new spices and blends, they’re such a great way to liven up the flavour, colour and aroma of any meal – and we just found our new favourites. They’re all organic, gluten-free, msgfree… and made in Alberta! Breakfast Kick does as it says, and kicks up your eggs and hashbrowns several notches. Sassy Salt is a blend of Atlantic sea salt with spices, and adds pzazz to any dish; while Totally Taco and Frankly Fajita will bring out your inner mariachi!

Don’t drink a lot of soda or looking for alternatives? Wild Tea Kombucha is made from 100 percent raw and unpasteurized kombucha base, carbonated, and flavoured. Lighter, and a little less syrupy than many sodas, the cola is quite refreshing and showed a little tartness. A welcome way to cool down on a hot days, four flavours are available, and yes, they’re locally made from the folks at Wild Tea. Find them at Planet Organic, Save on Foods, and many smaller independent Alberta stores. 350 mL, $3-$3.50.

You’ll find them in Amaranth stores and many other good markets around the province, or order direct at taspice.com/spices. Glass jars of 50-100g, around $8-$9.

Torill’s Table Original Waffle & Pancake Mix Sure, sometimes you don’t feel like making buttermilk waffles from scratch, but the family is still clamouring for a hot, decadent (let’s be honest - waffles are awesome) breakfast. The mix will make Norwegian-style waffles, but also a Belgian-style which might be more familiar to Albertans. As for the waffles, they’re light, fluffy, and with a fair bit of whole wheat and flax goodness, they passed my family’s taste test easily. And they’re locally made and also available gluten-free too! Widely available at markets across the province. 14-16 waffle packs, $11 and $15 gluten-free. 40 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

All About The Burger: A History of America’s Favorite Sandwich Mango Publishing, $16.99

For more than 10 years, Sef Gonzalez, or “Burger Beast”, has been documenting his burger excursions in his blog. His passion for burgers grew to include a collection of 5,000 artifacts, so he opened the world’s only Burger Museum in Miami, Florida. And now he’s written the book! Definitely one for enthusiasts and aficionados, over 226 black and white pages, All About The Burger covers in depth the history, the restaurants, the cooking styles, and the different eras that over the last 130 years have all played their part in the rise of a simple beef patty to the world’s favourite sandwich.


CALGARY INTERNATIONAL

B E E R F E ST

M AY 3 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4 , 2 0 1 9 BMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

E D M O N TO N C R A F T

BEER FESTIVAL

MAY 31 & JUNE 1, 2019 E D M O N TO N E X P O C E N T R E

crafted to be

different featuring delicious seasonal menus

MORE INFO AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALS.COM    ABBEERFESTIVALS | #YYCBEERFEST #YEGBEERFEST

10612-82 Avenue NW Edmonton

|

(780) 757-2727


and the “be the brewer” program with Olds College where they crowd-source a beer and people vote on the style, come up with a name, design the label, and help brew the beer. ABF have also worked with the same charities year over year, supporting Autism Aspergers Friendship Society of Calgary and Kids Up Front. This month sees the 15th annual Calgary International Beer fest, and ABF have five other events including Edmonton Craft Beer Festival, Banff Craft Beer Fest, Edmonton and Calgary Mashings, and Jasper Beer and Barley Summit.

Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM

“People are drinking slightly less beer and spirits, consumption rates are down, but they're also drinking tastier things. They're looking for quality over quantity, which is a very healthy choice,” says Bill Robinson, president of Alberta Beer Festivals (ABF).

Born in Niagara Falls, Robinson grew up traveling with his father’s work, and living overseas. After returning to Canada, and tempted by the close proximity of the ski hills, he studied communications and education at the University of Calgary. But travel is a passion, and after graduating, he traveled for three and a half years, teaching in Lebanon, volunteering in Tanzania, and living in England. He’s now visited 83 countries and still travels to beer festivals every year. Robinson and his partners started their company in 2002 with Inglewood SunFest and the Four Nations rugby tournament. Beer was on the radar, but back then Alberta had so few breweries that their first beer event was Calgary International BeerFest, as the province boasted the best selection of worldwide beer, but with little local competition. “2005 was our very first beer festival. And it was maybe 20 breweries, four restaurants, and a psychic,” says Robinson. “A lot of people didn't know what a beer festival was. They thought it was like an all you can eat buffet of beer. At our show now, the coat check is bigger than our first year event.” Since then it's evolved to fill the BMO Center with more than 200 breweries, 50 restaurants, meaderies, cideries, and craft distilleries too. The program includes cooking with beer seminars, brewmaster seminars,

42 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

“We're also seeing a lot of craft distilleries opening up, so we're morphing our business to include that as well because we see that as a pretty big vision for the future,” Robinson says. “A lot of the breweries are trying to diversify into distilling as well, and it's a great thing for the industry, and it's a great thing for us, because they're going to come and find a new favourite, and hopefully enjoy that at our festivals. And to be honest with you, we see nothing but positive growth.” So what bottle has Robinson been saving for a special occasion? “Paul [Gautreau] from Big Rock is probably one of the most innovative people I've ever gotten to meet, and he cut a wide swathe for a lot of people that followed him,” he says. “He’s not only brilliant; he's very, very creative.” Robinson has ben saving a bottle of Gautreau’s Alchemist Edition limited release, one-off beers, for around 10 years: “It’s a barley wine that he made, and it was such a unique flavour and something so different that I was lucky to get four or five bottles. They dripped wax over the cap by hand, and they numbered them.” But when Robinson recently let Gautreau know he still had one bottle left, Gautreau told him to drink it soon. “So this is perfect timing; if you think what's happened in the industry in 10 years until now when we're getting to taste it, and so much has changed... that might be what we celebrate,” Robinson says. “It's a neat marker, so it's pretty cool.”


UPCOMING

MARKETS BBQ & BACKYARDS MARKET SATURDAY, JUNE 8 This market will be all about outdoor entertaining from fresh ingredients ready to be grilled, to delicious condiments to accompany your barbecue. 9 AM - 2 PM HANDS-ON GRILLING (10 - 11 AM or 12:30 - 1:30 PM) • $50

Step into our Learning Centre for a hands-on grilling cooking class during the market. Our chefs will share their favourite recipes and techniques with you. Preregistration required.

ATCO Park Markets - Commons Building, 5302 Forand Street SW FARMER’S MARKET SATURDAY, JULY 20

FARMER’S MARKET SATURDAY, AUGUST 17

HARVEST SALE SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 14

The first of two Farmer’s Markets, come shop local produce and products.

Find cooking inspiration with summer’s vibrant, flavourful ingredients.

Last chance to stock up on summer flavours for preserving and get first pick from fall harvest.

KiDS

SUMMER COOKING

CAMPS

Ages 9 -12 4 Day Camps: $440 + GST 5 Day Camps: $550 + GST

Our themed camps are a series of hands-on cooking classes that are engaging from start to finish. Kids will enjoy the dishes they make for lunch and will be able to take extras and recipe packages home to share with their families at the end of each class. Every camp is sure to reveal your child’s inner chef.

REGISTER ONLINE

ATCOBlueFlameKitchen.com or call 403 245 7630

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019 43


44 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - May 2019

Profile for Culinaire Magazine

Culinaire #8:1 (May 2019)  

Advertisement