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ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 6 NO.7 :: DECEMBER 2017

Spreading Holiday Cheer Y! • • • • •

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MACARONS & MACAROONS Whiskies & Warming Spirits | Celebration Cocktails | Port & Madeira


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16 VOLUME 6 / ISSUE #7 DECEMBER 2017

Features 10

Giving Back Three Alberta organizations addressing hunger and inadequate access to food – what do they need and how can we can help? by Silvia Pikal

16 ‘Tis The Season… for warming drinks and celebration cocktails by Linda Garson

20 Giving and Getting: Reverse Advent Calendar by Julie Van Rosendaal

22 Macaron & Macaroon: Two different cookies with a similar name by Silvia Pikal

18

Spreading Holiday Cheer One cookie, one square, and one cake: three sweet recipes for success for gifting, and treating visiting friends and family by Karlynn Johnston

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Brace Yourself For Winter... with fortified wines; quintessentially English port, and madeira – the wine of the American Declaration of Independence by Tom Firth

32 The Happiest Accident Pineau des Charentes by Linda Garson

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

34 Holiday Desserts II: Pumpkin tiramisu with candied pecans by Renee Kohlman

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Off The Menu – One18 Empire Goat Cheese Cheesecake With Salted Caramel Topping

9

Book Review

14

Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

36 Making the Case: For holiday wines by Tom Firth

28 Holiday Desserts I: A timeless heavenly treat by Renee Kohlman

38 Gadgets, Apps, Glass and Contraptions: 5 essential wine accessories by Adrian Bryksa

30 Whiskies and Warming Spirits Simple pleasures for wintery nights by Tom Firth with Linda Garson

42 Open That Bottle Andrew Schultz of Breakfast Television by Linda Garson

On the Cover: Many thanks to Lindsay and David Rousseau, of Ollia Macarons and Tea, for the beautiful macarons cascading down our front cover, and to Ingrid Kuenzel for her ideas and expertise to create a festive sparkly shower of deliciousness!

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Letter From The Editor But I also love that feeling of hunkering down inside and watching the cityscape from my 12th floor perch, warm and snug with my favourite comfort foods and tipples, and with friends or alone. What plans do you have for the holidays? Are you escaping to warmer climes or staying home and enjoying the best of the season? December and the New Year are full of contrasts; the yin and yang of giving and receiving, and the excitement of what’s to come mixed with a time for reflection on what has been. The trees are bare, there’s a nip in the air, and there’s snow on the ground – winter is almost upon us, daring us to “get outside and enjoy me, or stay inside and defy me.” It’s not often that I get chance to don my snowshoes and plod around the mountains, but nothing makes me feel more alive; it’s a real treat for someone who grew up jumping in puddles.

I’ve had my Christmas in November – a memorable, four-day, wonderful indulgence of holiday fun, food, chefs, friends, cooking classes, more food, seasonal décor, crafts and songs, and… more food, at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, so I’m ready to spread Christmas cheer far and wide. This issue is full of holiday entertaining ideas; I hope you find your next favourite

seasonal treat. But we also have an eye on how we can help others less fortunate; the needs of our local food charities, and ways to give – see page 20 for Julie Van Rosendaal’s reverse advent calendar – so simple and so clever! It’s a time of thanks too for everyone who has made Culinaire possible this year: our supporters and advertisers; our contributors, photographers, and editors; our sales and marketing team; and to you for your kind words, compliments, feedback, and encouragement. Finally, in an effort to improve Culinaire and understand what our readers want, we’d be grateful if you’d take our brief 3-minute readership survey online at culinairemagazine.ca/survey I hope 2018 brings everything you wish for, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Buon Natale. (bwon-nah-TAL-ay)

This is how we say ‘Merry Christmas’ in Italy, but it really means we wish you and yours all the best of the Holiday Season.

Have a cookie. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

CALGARY Willow Park

italiancentre.ca


ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Calgary Sales: Greg Mitchell 403-870-9802 greg@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales: Lisa Wolansky 780-782-4280 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales: Kristen Boyko 780-782-4280 kristen@culinairemagazine.ca Creative Director: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Eva Colmenero web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Anna Brooks Adrian Bryksa Renee Kohlman Karlynn Johnston Karen Miller Silvia Pikal Juile Van Rosendaal

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Tom Firth

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge whose work in the wine and beverage industry stretches back to the mid ‘90s. Tom is the Contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, as well as a judge for Alberta’s Finest Drinks List Awards. He has no qualms about tasting first thing in the morning, and his poor desk is completely covered in paper and bottles. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine

< Karlynn Johnston

Full-time professional blogger, baker and recipe maker, Karlynn can usually be found fluffing her culinary feathers on her award-winning website, thekitchenmagpie.com.  Otherwise, she's busy avoiding her deadlines by sneaking away to eat at her favourite Edmonton restaurants, finding a new gin cocktail to drink or playing on social media. Her best-selling cookbook, Flapper Pie & a Blue Prairie Sky is on shelves now, with a second cookbook coming Spring 2019. Follow Karlynn @kitchenmagpie.

< Julie Van Rosendaal

Julie Van Rosendaal is the author (and co-author) of nine best-selling cookbooks, and has been the food columnist on the Calgary Eyeopener on CBC Radio One for 10 years. She’s a food educator, stylist, TV personality, freelance writer, and columnist who contributes to online and print publications across Canada. She also writes and takes photos for her popular food blog, dinnerwithJulie.com, which documents real life in her home kitchen in Calgary with her husband, Mike, and 12 year old son, Willem.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

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Convenient and accessible High quality couverture chocolate for baking or entertaining is available in our retail stores, on our website, or in the baking aisle at Safeway and Sobeys in Western Canada.


Salutes... The results are in – Air Canada has announced its Best New Restaurants, and four of the top ten list are in Alberta! It’s celebration time for Calgary’s Bar Von Der Fels in third place, and hats off to Clementine, Café Linnea, and Alder Room in Edmonton. Congratulations to all!

Congrats too to Gold Medal Plates Winners: Chef Blake Flann, of BLAKE in Canmore, swept the board to win Gold; Chef Matthias Fong, of Calgary’s River Café took home Silver; and Bronze went to Teatro Ristorante’s Chef David Bohati.

And to Monogram Coffee co-founder, Ben Put, who won the 2017 Canadian Barista Competition for the fourth time! Put will now represent Canada in the World Barista Championship in Korea.

and Shout Outs... There’s no stopping OEB. Calgary’s popular breakfast and brunch spot has opened a third location in the old Bocce location, in Mission. Expect fun and bright, egg and chicken-themed décor, and the same egg-focused menu as their Edmonton Trail and 5th Avenue SW locations. The Tastemarket by SAIT is celebrating the launch of its new downtown eatery and innovative learning environment for future culinary entrepreneurs. A unique facility, SAIT students are gaining real restaurant management experience, and offering breakfasts, lunches, snacks, and grab-and-go meals in this this cutting-edge space on 7th Avenue SW, Monday to Friday, 7:00 am – 5:30 pm. You can also take classes here in going gluten free and cooking for your health. tastemarket.ca/cooking-classes/locations. TwoPenny, a new Chinese restaurant from the team behind Calgary’s Native Tongues Taqueria and Calcutta Cricket Club, has opened its doors on 1st Street SW in Beltline offering familiar family-style Chinese dining.

TwoPenny 6

“The Tea House,” is a lively bar downstairs, with a different menu and features dim sum cart service. These beautifully designed spaces, by Sarah Ward Interiors, boast elaborate and rich fixtures, with modern Chinese ornaments and artwork. Don’t miss Chef Scott Beaton’s roast meats and lamb ribs, the smoked mushrooms and special fried rice – and wash it all down with beverage director, Stephen Phipps’, creative cocktails. Open 7 days, 5pm-11pm.

Utca Chimney Cakes Coffee House

Something new and different has opened in Calgary’s Victoria Park – Utca Chimney Cakes Coffee House, on 13 Avenue SE. This 28-seat café features traditional chimney cakes with sweet and savoury toppings and spreads, as well as a breakfast cone ready to eat on the go with egg, cheese, and bacon or sausage on a donut cone, and a chimney ice cream cone with soft-serve Fiasco gelato. See the bakers preparing the pastries, and learn from the baristas at the espresso bar.

The Wednesday Room

We’re excited for the opening of The Wednesday Room in the ex-Trib location on 8 Avenue SW. McKinley Burkart have recreated a ‘60s vibe, to provide a relaxed, cool lounge with cool food, and a great music program. There’s a baby grand downstairs, and a 36-seat private dining room upstairs. Derek Wilkins’ (ex Rouge and Workshop) modern Canadian menu features 18 shared plates, 15 of which are gluten free, and four each are vegan and vegetarian – try them all for $150. Big share plates of Tomahawk steak and arctic char feed 2-4 people. Cody Goss (of Anju and Ricardos) has created a seasonal cocktail program – and your Old Fashioned is served in a flask! On-demand food delivery service, foodora, has launched in Calgary and Edmonton to deliver good eats from over 50 restaurant partners directly to your door. Restaurant partners include Po-ke, Freshii, Würst, and Prairie Noodle Shop, and until December 31, delivery on all foodora orders is free! foodora.ca


HERITAGE H ERITAGE PARK PARK HISTORICAL HISTORIC AL VILLAGE VILL AGE

H O L I DDAY AY I N S P I R E D C U L I NNA A RRYY E X P E R I E N C E S Once Upon A Christmas Breakfast Buffet

Holiday Teas

Saturdays and Sundays, November 25 – December 17 and Friday & Saturday, December 22 & 23 Savour a family-friendly breakfast buffet during the Once Upon A Christmas festivities.

December 28–31 Enjoy a festive holiday tea in the beautiful Famous 5 Centre of Canadian Women.

Dinner & A Movie

Selkirk Grille New Year’s Eve Dinner

Wednesdays, December 6, 13, 20 Enjoy a movie-themed three-course dinner at the Selkirk Grille and a Christmas movie favourite in Gasoline Alley Museum.

Sittings at 11:30am & 1:30pm

Sunday, December 31 Ring in the New Year with an exquisite six-course dinner at the Selkirk Grille. Reservations required

For more information on these and other upcoming events at Heritage Park, please visit HeritagePark.ca or call 403.268.8500 Selkirk Grille open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Reservations 403.268.8607 /HeritageParkYYC HeritagePark.ca

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Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

3. When mixture is smooth, slowly add 7. Place jars in a water bath and bake at One18 Empire’s Goat sour cream (one spoon at a time). Avoid 275º F for about 1-1½ hours. Cheesecake Cheese Cheesecake is so putting all of the sour cream in at once is done when small cracks appear on top, lip-smacking delicious that or the mixture will be lumpy. and the batter is still slightly jiggly. everyone wants the recipe. 4. Once all the sour cream is 8. Let cool, and top with your favourite We’re grateful to pastry incorporated add the eggs, cream, salted caramel sauce, cherries or berries, and vanilla. and a sprinkle of powdered sugar. chef Caitlyn McDermott and chef de cuisine Adam 6. Place graham crumb crust on the If there’s a dish in a local restaurant Dunsire for sharing! bottom of mason jars. Press down so the that you’d love to make, let us know at One18 Empire Goat Cheese Cheesecake With Salted Caramel Topping Makes 5 mason jars

1½ cups graham cracker crumbs ¼ cup brown or white sugar Pinch of salt 7 Tbs melted butter 470 g goat cheese 115 g sugar ½ Tbs cornstarch Pinch of salt ½ cup (125 mL) sour cream 2 eggs 2 Tbs (30 mL) cream 2 scant tsp (9 mL) vanilla Your favourite salted caramel sauce Cherries or berries for topping Powdered sugar for topping

1. Make a graham cracker crust by

mixing the crumbs with the sugar and salt, then adding butter. Mix with a fork, and chill for one hour.

2. Cream goat cheese in a mixer on

low speed. Mix your sugar, cornstarch and salt together, then add to the goat cheese. Once incorporated, change mixing speed to medium. Scrape down the sides of the bowl frequently to avoid having lumps. 8

crust is firm, then pour the cheesecake batter on top.

culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you!


Book Review

by KAREN MILLER

Lure Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the West Coast

The cookbook contains a wide variety of Bell’s recipes, including burgers and sandwiches (“The Best Tuna Melt Ever” p. 104), chowders, and simple summer salads, incorporating the best of summer bounty and fish. The recipes are organized by type of fish, but there is also a handy “Recipe List by Course.” For those fully committed to using fish in every course, you can make “Seaweed Brownies” on p. 175.

by Ned Bell with Valerie Howes Figure 1 Publishing $38.95

Caveat: I love fish and have been lucky enough to eat fish my whole life, so any book heralding fish is good for me. 30 years ago we didn’t know that there was, or could be, a problem with sustainability of any species. As worldwide consumption of fish has increased, in the last 10-15 years we have been made aware of over-fishing and lower stocks.

basic tools on how to make the proper choices, buying in season, storing, and preparing.

Ned Bell has been passionately raising awareness for a number of years, and is now Executive Chef and ambassador of Ocean Wise, a leader in the field. The cookbook provides us with sustainability guidelines for west coast species, and

Aside from his work for Ocean Wise, Bell is known for his natural culinary talent with a creative range of recipes. There is a strong emphasis on how important seasonality is to fish, just as it is with market produce.

If we follow Bell’s guidance, it will allow us to continue eating fish while still maintaining their viability, so get to know the signs of sustainability and treat yourself to fish without guilt. This book is a treasure for those who love fish and those who want to know how. Karen Miller is a former lawyer who got on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon earlier than most and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.


Giving Back:

3 Alberta Organizations Addressing Hunger And Food Insecurity by SILVIA PIKAL

It’s lunchtime on a Tuesday at the downtown kitchen of Brown Bagging For Calgary’s Kids (BB4CK), and a group of 15 volunteers have just made 371 turkey sandwiches and 212 tuna sandwiches. They’re smiling as they leave the kitchen, even though they must be exhausted from packing lunches for hours in a bustling and hot kitchen. Every week volunteers in this kitchen, with help from several locations across Calgary (from schools to senior residences), feed 3,200 kids a day that would otherwise go hungry. In addition to the sandwich, Tuesday’s lunch includes freshly baked brownies or oatmeal cookies, along with a serving of fruit. The lunches made downtown are delivered in blue bins, and teachers discreetly place lunches in backpacks or in the fridge in the teachers’ lounge – so kids can get their lunch without shame. “We believe the act of making a lunch gives kids a sense of caring and belonging, which we know is actually the best ingredient for them to stay out of that poverty cycle,” says Tanya Koshowski, executive director for BB4CK. In 2002, BB4CK delivered 1,200 lunches; now they deliver almost triple that to 210 schools. Food insecurity is inadequate or insecure access to food because of financial constraints, and Koshowski says families are struggling because of the economic downturn. Families can’t flex their house, car, or utility bills – but they can flex their grocery bill. They could have $20 or $200 for groceries for the week. This

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— Donate through their website at bb4ck.org/donate-now. Each sandwich made in the downtown location costs only $1 to make.

Food Banks Alberta Food Banks Alberta, the provincial association of food banks, supports food banks in the province and fills the gaps of food banks in small communities with limited resources.

BB4CK

Stephanie Walsh-Rigby, executive director of Food Banks Alberta, says the last few years have been challenging for food banks across the province.

could mean completely running out of food before the next paycheque, or struggling to supplement their child’s lunch with fruits and veggies.

“The impact of the quick tumble the economy took had an immediate impact, and it will be a lasting impact, for food banks,” Walsh-Rigby says.

“The need has increased over the last few years and we’ve been able to meet that need,” Koshowski says. “We hear stories of kids that are coming to school with absolutely nothing. Or a child recently came in with a box of cake mix and that’s what they were eating for lunch. Giving kids nutrition is the best opportunity for them to be successful.”

Food banks in Alberta have been feeling the impact of the downturn since 2014, and a drastic increase of clients into 2015 and 2016. The need has levelled off this year – but it hasn’t gone down.

Every week volunteers feed 3,200 kids a day that would otherwise go hungry How to help — If you’re interested in packing lunches, visit bb4ck.org to contact the organization. They’ll connect you with community groups that make lunches in their own community’s schools. They can also help you form a group in your own community. If you’re interested in volunteering in the downtown location you can join a waitlist, as 15 new volunteers are needed in the kitchen every day to produce and deliver a large amount of sandwiches.

After people are laid off, they may have some savings, but those quickly get depleted. They eventually sell their car, or downsize their home. In some cases, they don’t have those options to begin with. “You get to the point where going to the food bank on a daily basis is a must to survive,” Walsh-Rigby says. Even after finding a job, it takes a long time to build back up. There are many people working full-time and still seeking help at food banks.

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“It’s a darker time for us but the flipside is the incredible generosity and support every community in this province gives to their local food bank.” How to help — Make a cash donation in person, online, or by mail, in the form of a cheque, which gives your local food

5940 Blackfoot Trail SE nye@hotelblackfoot.com


“We like to say good food is just the beginning. Food is a basic human right, but it’s also a powerful way to bring people together and make them feel connected with one another, and with the land where the food comes from. Food gets people in the door so they can be involved as citizens in their communities, and take an active role in their own health.” How to help

Food Banks Alberta

bank the flexibility to purchase what is needed throughout the year. — For those that wish to donate food, contact your local food bank to see what their needs are. They might be running low on frozen meat or canned vegetables. Many food banks have the facilities to accommodate fresh and frozen donations.

Food is a basic human right, but it’s also a powerful way to bring people together

new friends,” says Renée MacKillop, manager for The Alex CFC. “From there people usually start volunteering with us and often graduate into community action training that help people have a voice and be involved in their community.” MacKillop describes CFCs as a national movement aiming to address food insecurity, hunger, and social isolation across low-income communities across Canada. There are eight CFCs in Canada, and The Alex CFC is the first one in Alberta.

The Alex Community Food Centre Opened in 2016, The Alex Community Food Centre (CFC) in Calgary partners with Community Food Centres Canada to provide a welcoming space for people to cook, grow, and share food.

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— Learn more about poverty and food insecurity in Canada. There’s a lot of information on the cfccanada.ca website.

The Facts — Health Canada reported 1 in 12 households across Alberta had experienced moderate to severe food insecurity during 2012. — Food insecurity is higher amongst low-income households, lone parents, people who rent rather than own their home, individuals who receive social assistance, women, single people, and households with young children.

— Consider a regular monthly donation of cash or food, as food banks need support all year.

“You might first come in for one of our community meals, and then get involved in a cooking class or gardening program, and gain new skills and make

— There are always volunteer opportunities at The Alex CFC, such as working in the kitchen to prepare and serve food, gardening, or assisting in the facilitation of one of the drop-in programs. Check out thealexcfc.ca/volunteer.

The Alex Community Food Centre

— Some health consequences include poor health and higher hospitalization for infants and toddlers, and adults are at higher risk for developing chronic conditions such as diabetes and heart disease (Alberta Health Services).


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Chefs' Tips

Tricks!

The Perfect Puff Pastry by ANNA BROOKS Calgary photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Whether it’s the cold, the holidays, or you’ve finally accepted the winter weight that mysteriously appears around your midriff during the chilliest months of the year, December is a time to indulge. And what’s more indulgent than a puff pastry? Warm, chilled, savoury or sweet, puff pastries can be stuffed with anything from chocolate cream to wild mushrooms. Because December is one of the busiest months when it comes to baking, we asked two Alberta chefs how to pull off the perfect puff pastry.

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recipe, you’re capable of creating a work of puffed art. “Puff pastry is very versatile and can be filled with almost anything,” Japp says. “Always thaw frozen puff pastry in the fridge. You don’t want it to get warm before you start working with it.” Chef Darnell Japp

Chef Darnell Japp

Bears Den, Bearspaw, near Calgary Chef Japp is known for his savoury takes on puff pastries (Beef Wellington is one of his favourites). Puff pastries seem intimidating to make at home, but Japp says if you’re capable of following a

Puff pastry can burn easily, so remember to keep an eye on the dough while it’s baking. While some pastry fillings are fine to add in as is, Japp recommends giving finicky ingredients more attention. “For high moisture foods like mushrooms and tomatoes, try precooking or roasting to reduce some of the water before baking,” he says.


From bite-sized tarts (try tackling butternut squash with fried sage) or family-style classics like chicken pot pie, Japp says any type of puff pastry you can dream up, you can probably make too. Try Japp’s mouth-watering recipe for Savoury Mushroom Puff Pastry.

Wild Mushroom Puff Pastry Serves 2-4

1 sheet puff pastry, thawed 4 cups fresh chanterelle mushrooms 30 g butter 2 shallots, finely chopped 2 sprigs fresh thyme  4 Tbs (60 mL) dry sherry or white wine ½ cup (120 mL) 36 percent whipping cream ¼ cup (60 mL) chicken stock  ½ cup fresh corn (Taber if possible) 120 g grated cave-aged Gruyere cheese  30 g grated Parmesan 

If you’re capable of following a recipe, you’re capable of creating a work of puffed art Preheat oven to 425º F.

1. Put puff pastry on non-stick baking

sheet. Using a fork, poke holes all over every 3-5 cm. Bake for 10-15 minutes, or until very lightly golden brown.

2. In a saucepan, sauté mushrooms

with butter, shallots and thyme. Deglaze with sherry, and then add cream, chicken stock and corn. Reduce until almost dry.

3. Top pastry with filling and grated cheese. Bake for 15- 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Chef Arnaud Valade

Arno’s Pastry, Edmonton If you really want to show off, impress your holiday guests with a decadent dessert puff pastry. And who better to trust than a pastry chef from France?

has to be the right consistency before piping. You also have to control the humidity inside your oven or else the pastry doesn’t puff.”

Chef Valade is the vision behind Arno’s Pastry in Edmonton, where you can gorge on French-inspired treats like chouquettes, lemon meringue tarts, and chocolate and pear cake.

Valade says it’s easy to forget, but four simple ingredients make up the base for all sweet puff pastries: flour, butter, sugar and eggs. To echo Chef Japp’s advice, Valade says it’s crucial to follow your recipe exactly or else your pastry will fall flat (literally).

The good news? Valade says you don’t have to have Michelin-star experience to make these delicacies at home. “It’s really not that hard once you know the technique,” he says. “The dough

Give yourself a challenge and try making Valade’s top-selling pastry recipe for Choux Pastry with Bourbon Vanilla Cream!

4. Pipe 10cm long éclairs onto a lightly greased tray with a #8 tip. Bake at 350º F for around 30 minutes until pastry is puffed and golden. Crème Patissiere

Choux Pastry Eclair with Bourbon Vanilla Cream Serves 6

1 cup (240 mL) milk 1 cup (240 mL) water 225 g butter, cubed 1 Tbs sugar 1¼ tsp salt 1¼ cups (300 g) flour, sifted 450 g eggs (about 9 eggs)

1. In a saucepan, bring milk, water, butter, sugar and salt to a boil.

2. Take off heat, and add flour. Place

saucepan back on low heat and let cook until you see the batter start to come away from the sides of the pan.

3. Place in a mixer. Gradually add

eggs until you’ve reached a ribbon-like texture. The mixture should fall from a spoon, but still hold its shape.

2 cups (500 mL) milk 1 vanilla bean, halved and scraped ½ cup (125 g) fine/caster sugar 100 g egg yolks (about 2 yolks) 2 Tbs cornstarch 2 Tbs custard powder Splash bourbon

In a saucepan, boil milk with vanilla beans. Remove from heat. Cover and infuse for one hour. Mix sugar with egg yolks, and then add cornstarch, custard powder and bourbon. Remove vanilla bean and whisk the warm milk into the egg mixture. Strain back into the saucepan and heat, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens. To assemble, use a small star tip to make three holes in the top of the eclair. Pipe crème inside with a piping bag, and then pipe large stars in a wave on top of the eclair. Top with chocolate discs. Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist and graduate student currently living and studying in New York City. 15


‘Tis The Season…

For Warming Drinks And Celebration Cocktails by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Whether you're hunkering down or celebrating on the slopes, it’s the perfect time for sharing drinks with family and friends, so we asked two Alberta mixologists for seasonal recipes that we can make at home. Andre Bober

Baijiu, Edmonton “This refreshing cocktail puts you right on the side of the Rocky Mountains in a hidden chalet,” says Andre Bober. “The final product is crisp, light, and wonderfully fragrant. This drink is best served after a long day on the slopes, and is a wonderful toast to celebrate this holiday season!” Braulio Amaro has fresh notes of mint and pine, while the rosé and lavender soften and balance the flavours with floral and woody undertones. Top it off with French Crémant and you’ll be on a winter vacation in the French Alps.

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Chalet Spritz ¾ oz Braulio Amaro 1 oz rosé wine ½ oz lavender simple syrup 3 oz French crémant

Combine all ingredients in a wine glass and add ice. Garnish with a sprig of peppermint. Lavender Simple Syrup Combine 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a saucepan over low heat, and stir until the sugar is dissolved.

Remove from the heat and let sit for at least 5 minutes. Add 3 tsp of dried lavender. When cool, strain, bottle, and store in the refrigerator for up to one month.


Corey Laurin

Modern Steak, Calgary When exciting new recipes can be found at the touch of a screen, the pressure of hosting a memorable holiday soirée has never been greater. From a well-cooked turkey to a creatively crafted cocktail, every detail matters.

“This season, we’ve got you covered in the drink department, so that you can focus on cooking the perfect holiday feast,” says Corey Laurin. “Mulled wine is the classic aromatic Christmas drink (and a great winter replacement for sangria); it’s spicy, sweet, and so deliciously fragrant that even your in-laws will be convinced you know what you’re doing. Not to mention it is oh-so-easy.”

Laurin also suggests playing around with the mulling spices. “Ginger, turmeric, and cardamom are great candidates for creating your own perfect mulled wine this yuletide season,” he adds.   1 bottle red wine (save your good cabernet for drinking) ¼ cup of your favourite honey ¼ cup brandy or spiced rum (your in-laws are coming, remember?) 8 whole cloves 2 sticks of cinnamon 2 star anise pods Pinch of grated nutmeg Seasonal fruit, cut into thick slices  

Simmer (don’t boil!) all ingredients in a saucepan for at least 20 minutes. If you can resist temptation, you can keep this simmering on low for around 3 hours. Strain out the solids and serve warm.

17


Sweet Recipes For The Holidays story and photography by KARLYNN JOHNSTON

I suspect that December is my favourite time of year to get Chocolate Crinkle Cookies 4 dozen cookies into my kitchen and bake because I can gift all the goodies Makes Prep and cook time 4½ hours to my friends and family after trying out the tidbits myself. There’s nothing better than baking up a few dozen cookies, satiating your sweet tooth with a handful, and then getting the remaining temptations out of your house. December is always filled with spreading holiday cheer and visiting friends and family, both of which usually require an arsenal of baked goods in your freezer at the ready.

It’s also a time when our to-do lists are the longest they will be all year, the weather is frightful, and stress levels can be high.

½ cup (120 mL) vegetable oil 110 g unsweetened baking chocolate, melted 2 cups white sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla 4 eggs 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt ½ cup powdered sugar

To help pave the way for an easier baking experience for you this year, here are three simple and delicious classic holiday recipes that are sure to garner rave reviews from your loved ones – one cookie, one square and one cake that are always on my holiday dessert platters. 1. Mix together the oil, melted chocolate, white sugar and vanilla in a large bowl.

2. Stir in the eggs one at a time,

incorporating each thoroughly before adding the next.

3. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Stir into the wet mixture until combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

December usually requires an arsenal of baked goods in your freezer at the ready

4. Preheat your oven to 350º F.

Line baking sheets with parchment paper.

5. Scoop the dough into teaspoon

size amounts, rolling each into a ball. Drop each cookie dough ball into powdered sugar, rolling around to make sure that they are coated well. Place on the baking sheet 5 cm apart.

6. Bake 10-12 minutes until the edges

are firm and the middle has just set. Immediately remove from cookie sheet to cooling rack. 18


Walnut Cherry Slice Bars Makes 25 squares Total prep and cook time 1 hour

Crust 1 cup all purpose flour 2 Tbs powdered sugar ½ cup salted butter, very soft

Filling 1½ cups brown sugar 2 eggs, well beaten 2 Tbs flour 1 tsp baking powder ½ cup medium coconut ¾ - 1 cup candied cherries, cut in half ½ cup chopped walnuts

Pre-heat your oven to 350° F.

1. Whisk together the flour and

powdered sugar. Using a pastry blender or two knives criss-cross, cut the butter in until it is small, coarse crumbs.

2. Press the mixture into the bottom of

a greased 9 X 9 pan and bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes. Remove the pan from oven then turn the oven down to 325° F.

3. Combine the filling ingredients, then pour over baked cookie base.

4. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 35-40 minutes. Let cool in the pan before slicing

Gum Drop Cake

Makes one cake Total Prep and cook time 80 minutes 1 cup butter, room temperature 1 cup white sugar 4 large eggs, room temperature 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract 2 tsp (10 mL) almond extract 2½ cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbs cornstarch 2 tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 1 cup (240 mL) whole milk 2¼ cups of mini gumdrops, chopped if large

Cherry Icing Glaze 1¾ cups icing sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) almond extract 2 tsp (10 mL) melted salted butter 2-3 Tbs milk, add until desired consistency is achieved

Pre-heat your oven to 350º F.

1. In a large mixing bowl, beat the

butter and white sugar until smooth.

2. Add in the eggs, one at a time,

beating after each addition until fully incorporated. Add in the extracts and mix thoroughly.

3. Whisk dry ingredients together in a medium sized bowl.

4. Add one third of the dry ingredients into the butter mixture, beat in completely. Add in one third of the milk, beat in completely. Repeat steps until flour and milk are used up, ending with milk. Fold in the gum drops.

a cake tester inserted comes out clean. Cool completely.

6. Whisk together icing ingredients

until smooth and the pour over the cake. Slice and serve!

5. Spray a 10-inch Bundt pan with

cooking spray, then spoon batter into the pan, spreading out evenly. Bake in the oven for 50-65 minutes OR until

Karlynn Johnston is a cookbook author, professional blogger, baker and recipe maker, and can usually be found fluffing her culinary feathers on her award-winning website, thekitchenmagpie.com. 19


Giving And Getting: Reverse Advent Calendar story and photography by JULIE VAN ROSENDAAL

A few Novembers ago, an empty wine box on my kitchen table gave me an idea. Rather than buy (or make — who has time?) a traditional advent calendar, with waxy chocolates or tiny gifts we don’t really need more of, why not count down to the holidays in reverse, collecting an edible item for those in need each day leading up to Christmas?

Everyone likes to get a little something special during the holidays

At a time of year when we celebrate giving, yet some struggle more than ever, it makes sense to remember the true meaning of the holiday season when December 1st arrives. 20

Two wine boxes make the perfect carrier — with 12 compartments each, it’s a 24 day countdown to Christmas Eve, at which time they can be dropped off at the food bank, shelter or other agency. (Of course if it’s loaded with non-perishable food items, delivery could easily wait until January — unfortunately there’s always a need.) For families, it’s a nice habit to instill — to think of members of our community who may be confronting challenges or may not always know where their next meal comes from, while we shop for our own pantries. Kids (and adults) get into the habit of considering which ingredients are affordable and useful, and what could be done with them.

The Calgary Interfaith Food Bank wish list includes pasta, peanut butter, canned fish, fruit and vegetables, pasta sauces, and other non-perishables that can be easily picked up on a shopping trip and fit perfectly into the space that once held a bottle of wine. I like to tuck in the odd box of chocolates or nice bottle of shampoo, because everyone likes to get a little something special during the holidays — and it’s just as nice to be on the giving end.

Julie Van Rosendaal is CBC Radio One’s food columnist on the Calgary Eyeopener, author (and co-author) of nine best-selling cookbooks, a food educator, stylist, TV personality and freelance writer. See her popular blog, dinnerwithJulie.com.


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Macaron & Macaroon:

Two Different Cookies With A Similar Name story by SILVIA PIKAL photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Macarons and macaroons are only one letter apart, which can lead to some confusion. While they both use egg whites and sugar in their recipes, they have a very different appearance and baking process.

Macarons are thought to have originated in Italy, and the recipe brought to France, where it was adapted and popularized. Two delicate meringue shells are sandwiched with a creamy filling, and the sky’s the limit when it comes to flavours. Macaroons are a coconut-based North American cookie. The baking process is simple, and the cookie is dense and chewy. You can dip it in chocolate or add any other ingredients you like.

Ollia Macarons And Tea Lindsay and David Rousseau, the husband-and-wife duo behind Calgary’s Ollia Macarons and Tea, opened their store in 2014. Lindsay says their goal with Ollia was to offer “parenthèse enchantée” (an enchanted episode) to everyday moments. “We wanted to create something where when you walked in the door, or someone brought you a box of macarons from our store, it took you away for a moment,” Lindsay says. “We think every day you should have a little bit of something special.” Many people come in asking for “macaroons” when they really want macarons. It happens so often, that for April Fool’s Day 2016 they joked they would only sell macaroons since that’s what customers kept asking for. They posted a picture of macaroons on their Facebook page and announced they would start with two flavours – coconut and chocolate. “We had people writing and saying, ‘No, don’t do this,’” she says laughing.

22


“So macaroon vs. macaron is dear to my heart.” Ollia even sells a “macaroon macaron” made with coconut milk and toasted coconut, which was created to offer a dairy-free flavour. David Rousseau is Ollia’s pastry chef, and originally from France. He says making macarons is not a simple process. “We have baking classes and right at the beginning I say, ‘I’m going to teach you how to make macarons, because if I was teaching you how to make macaroons, we would be out in 12 minutes.’ The actual class is two-and-a-half hours because there’s nine steps.”

After moving to Edmonton, Bouilhol ran a catering company selling baked goods to cafés and restaurants. “I was renting a small kitchen in a café and they told me, ‘You’re taking up too much space – you need to find your own kitchen,’” he laughs. The pastry chef specializes in one-bite, miniature French pastries. His favourite macaron is passion fruit, a top seller, while other popular macarons are salted caramel, and chocolate. Bouilhol says making macarons takes a lot of time and practice: “It’s a complicated process. You cannot make it every morning. You make a huge amount of shell and then do the filling.”

Many people come in asking for “macaroons” when they really want macarons

He says the original way to make the shells is with Italian meringue, which requires drizzling sugar syrup into egg whites that have been whipped to hold stiff peaks (and the use of a candy thermometer for the syrup).

Macarons use egg whites, sugar, and finely ground almonds to create a meringue-like mixture that’s piped onto a baking sheet into small rounds.

“Sometimes people take a shortcut and use French meringue instead,” Bouilhol says. “French meringue gives dry macarons.”

“What we love about the macaron is you have to become an expert at it because it’s very hard to make,” Lindsay says. “With one product, you’re unlimited with the flavour and design. It allows you to hone your skills and do something really fun.”

French meringues are simpler as egg whites are whipped to stiff peaks with the sugar, and the dry ingredients are folded into the meringue. Both FanFan and Ollia use the Italian meringue method.

Lindsay’s favourite sweet macaron is lavender and honey, while her favourite savoury flavour is chèvre apricot. David’s favourite is passion fruit milk chocolate. The most popular flavour is a tie between their rocher (chocolate and hazelnut) and crème brûlée.

Fanfan Patisserie Edmonton’s new FanFan Patisserie opened in July. Owner and pastry chef Franck “FanFan’’ Bouilhol trained at Alain Ducasse’s school in France, and worked at patisseries in his home country.

Chewy Coconut Macaroons Makes 30 macaroons

4 egg whites ¼ tsp salt ²/³ cup sugar ¼ cup flour 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla 3 cups sweetened flaked coconut

1. With an electric mixer at medium speed, beat egg whites and salt until stiff, but not dry, peaks form.

2. Beat in sugar, flour, and vanilla

just until combined. Fold in coconut. Drop 1 Tbs of batter 5 cm apart onto parchment paper-lined cookie sheets.

Baking Macaroons

3. Bake at 325° F for 20 – 25 minutes

“If you’re making them at home, macaroons are much easier to make,” says Janine Kolotyluk, professional home economist and community educator with ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen.

4. Remove from cookie sheets and

She says it’s a great recipe for kids to help with. They can fold in the coconut, or drop the batter onto the cookie sheet. (Make sure they don’t lick the egg whites). Many thanks to ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen for sharing their macaroon recipe.

or until a light golden colour. Let stand for 5 minutes. cool on racks. Store, layered with wax paper, in an airtight container. May be frozen. We hope we’ve cleared up the difference between a macaron and macaroon!

Silvia is a writer and editor based in Calgary. She loves trying new restaurants, from greasy spoons to upscale eateries that serve dollops of food, and she never says no to dessert. Tweet her @silviapikal. 23


Winter Is Here: Brace Yourself With Fortified Wines by TOM FIRTH

Portugal is slowly carving a niche for itself with its table wines, but its claim to fame on the international wine circuit is still its fortified wines. While fortified wines can be (and are) made around the world, two of the finest styles – port and madeira – come only from Portugal. For context, Madeira is a wine so far out of fashion, it may never come back. This is the wine used to toast the American Declaration of Independence, yet was for so long a victim of cheap and shoddy imitators that, at best, it has been forgotten by all but the most devoted adherents. Madeira – the wine, can only come from the Portuguese island of the same name. This craggy, volcanic island is a thousand kilometers from the Portuguese mainland, and was a provisioning spot for Portuguese ships many years ago. Ships with holds full of Madeira’s wine (fortified with brandy) rounding the cape of Africa, found that the wines improved after crossing the equator, though nowadays wine is aged in warehouses on the island and subjected to the hot summers and cooler winters. 24

Henriques and Henriques Vineyards on Madeira

The heating and cooling cycles of the changing seasons “cook” the wine, yielding a nigh-indestructible wine with burnt sugar and caramel flavours, and racy acids.

It's a fortified wine whose roots go back to the 17th century Madeira comes in several flavours and styles. Most madeira is made from the tinta negra mole grape, while the other main grapes in order of the sweetness of

the madeira wine they produce (from driest to sweetest) are sercial, verdelho, bual, and malmsey. Wines can be made as blends with neither an age statement nor a grape variety on the label; with age statements and grape listed; and finally as colheita, or single vintage offerings. Since there are so few producers these days, generally each house labels as a mark of quality. Good producers are good consistently. Port wine is an entirely different character, yet shares a few common


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points with madeira. Again, it is a fortified wine, whose roots go back to the 17th century. England was looking for other markets to supply its wine. During one period of conflict, England was feeling reluctant to purchase wine from France, and they looked further abroad to the wines of Portugal. Faced with a longer voyage, the wines were fortified with brandy to stabilize them, and lo and behold, the English took to these higher strength wines (the sweetness probably helped). Enjoyed from the draftiest of castles to the meanest of waterfront pubs. Port (as it was to be known), was soon to be the quintessentially English wine. Port comes in a wide range of styles: while most tawny ports in our market have an age statement indicating the average age of the wine in the bottle, some are blends of much younger wines.

Port was soon to be the quintessentially English wine

Colheita ports come from a single, specific vintage, and are excellent finds for port lovers. Bottle aged ports are the inky, almost black ports with plenty of berry fruit, ranging in style from basic rubies to the excellent value late bottled vintage ports, where a little additional barrel aging allows for earlier drinking. Finally, at the top of the quality pyramid for ports are the vintage ports, which only come from declared vintages, and represent the pinnacle of the craft. Also of note are the Single Quinta ports, which are from a single, premium estate in a single year. These last two styles are the ones for the cellar… if you are the patient sort. 26

Fonseca NV Terra Prima Organic Reserve Port

Kopke 10 Year Old Tawny

Sandeman 10 Year Old Tawny Port

Henriques and Henriques 10 Year Old Bual, Madeira

While the near inhospitable conditions of the Douro valley mean that organic viticulture isn’t necessarily difficult – as hot, dry summers make vineyard pests less common – this is the only organic port I know of. Ruby red with dried blueberries, cranberry and raspberry fruits, and a decidedly peppery nose, leads into rich, plummy fruits and all the texture and structure one wants in port. $30-32 CSPC +726119

Sandeman ports sort of lost their way some years back and these days seem to be making renewed efforts with their tawnies – back almost with a vengeance. Dried strawberries, a little mushroom and honey on the nose – in addition to all those nutty and woody aromas, lead into a wonderfully rich and bright palate. Very pleasing from start to finish. I’ll be trying this again… soon. $36 or so, CSPC +748525

Taylor Fladgate 2012 Late Bottled Vintage Port

While LBVs don’t really change all that much from year to year, this year’s release is one of my favourites from TFY. The right balance of ready to drink port, with all that fineness and structure port drinkers love from the brand. Very quaffable; try pairing with fresh brownies drizzled with caramel. About $24 on the shelf CSPC +46946

Kopke is a port house that has had a solid focus on tawnies for a long, long time. As a result, their particular style is well suited to well-crafted bottles for tawny fans. Copper-orange in the glass with caramel and brown sugar aromas over a hint of strawberry fruit, the palate is quite rich and nutty, but restrained as acids bring needed balance to this sweet treat. $38-40 CSPC +775949

A simply stunning bottle of madeira, hitting all the right notes. Deeply coloured with earthy aromas, burnt sugar, lime juice, toffee, and mahogany. Spicy, zesty, and off a little on the sweet side, but balanced by great acids. $55-60 CSPC +714225 $57

Blandy’s “Duke of Clarence” Rich Madeira, Madeira, Portugal

A (relatively) well-known madeira on these shores, the Duke of Clarence was famously drowned in a butt of Malmsey. A sweeter, richer style of madeira made from tinta negra grapes, it’s remarkably fruity with rum raisin, honey, and sour lime flavours. An after dinner madeira, try pairing with butter tarts or softer cheese plates. About $24-25 CSPC +280982


Blandy’s 10 Year Old Bual, Madeira, Portugal

Molasses brown in the glass with a bare, greenish tone, the nose of this off-dry madeira is classic with burnt sugar, lime juice, leather and clove orange. Some very noticeable residual sugars are very wellbalanced by beautiful acidity, and a long, graceful finish. Blue cheese or pecan pie would be a hit here. About $58 CSPC +759913

A rare treat for madeira lovers, this aged madeira is made from the tinta negra grape and spent a half century in the barrel – this production is limited to a single barrel as well! Dark amber with greenish tinting on the rim, with pressed flower, lime peel, caramel, and spice on the nose leading to a deep, expressive, and yes – damn good madeira experience with a finish measured in minutes. A little north of $300, CSPC +784944

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine

Please enjoy responsibly.

Henriques and Henriques 50 Year Old Tinta Negra, Madeira


Heavenly Treats story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

Angel food cake is a timeless recipe, perfect for the holidays. It bridges generations of homecooks across Canada, and makes fantastic use of staple ingredients which everyone has on hand – eggs, sugar, flour, salt, and cream. I love that something so simple is so delicious. If you talk to your mom or grandmother, they surely have stories about angel food cake. My mom sure does. Growing up on a farm in 28

Saskatchewan meant there were plenty of eggs around. Her mother used the yolks for noodles and the whites were often turned into angel food cake. They had cows as well, so there was no shortage of whipped cream to be served with the cake. Eventually the cake-making duties fell to my mom, and to this day, nobody makes angel food cake quite like she does. Angel food cake is a delicate balance of meringue, cake and pastry flour, and a dry, sunny day. Why a sunny

day, you ask? Turns out that meringue is tricky to whip up on cloudy, rainy days, so it’s best to avoid making it when the humidity is high. The sugar in the delicate egg-white mixture readily absorbs moisture from the air, which makes it soft and impossible to achieve thick, stiff peaks. Angel food cake also has other rules, but don’t let that scare you. First off, you need a tube pan with a removable tube. Whatever you do, don’t grease it. The batter needs a dry pan to climb up as it bakes. If there’s any fat, the batter can’t climb and you’ll have


Classic Angel Food Cake

1½ cups granulated sugar, divided 1 cup cake and pastry flour 1¼ cups (about 10–12) egg whites, room temperature 1 tsp (5 mL) pure almond or vanilla extract, or vanilla bean paste ¼ tsp salt 1¼ tsp cream of tartar

Preheat the oven to 375° F. Place the rack in the lower third of the oven.

1. In a medium bowl, add ½ cup sugar

to the flour and stir very well. Set aside.

2. Place the egg whites, almond extract,

a flat, congealed, eggy mess on your hands. So, rule #1: don’t grease the pan. Rule #2: use cake and pastry flour. All-purpose is too heavy. Buy a bag and keep it in your freezer if you don’t use it that often. Rule #3: egg whites must be at room temperature (they don’t beat as well when cold), and add a pinch of cream of tartar to get great volume. Rule #4: be sure both bowl and beaters are grease-free, otherwise the whites won’t beat very well. So basically, keep all fat away from the cake. Once the cake is baking, try not to open the oven until the 30-minute mark. Angel food cake is super versatile. In the spring and summer I like to cover the cake completely in whipped cream, then top with berries and other fresh fruit. For fall and winter, the cake is gorgeous when served with an apple or pear compote on the side, along with glorious globs of whipped cream. Basically any combination of cake/cream/fruit is a winner. Generations of Canadians have enjoyed angel food cake this way in the past, and I have a feeling the love is going to continue on far into the future.

and salt in a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat on high speed until the whites are foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat the whites on high speed to medium stiffness. Gradually, with the mixer on medium speed, add the remaining cup of sugar, a Tbs at a time. After all of the sugar has been added, beat on high speed until stiff, glossy peaks form, 2–3 minutes.

3. Gently fold the flour/sugar mixture

in by hand, using a rubber spatula — I do this in four batches — and pour the batter into the ungreased tube pan. Make about four slashes with a sharp knife to remove any air pockets and bake for 30–35 minutes, until the cake is golden and the top is dry to the touch.

Upholding The Tradition Red Cup Distillery is a craft distillery in Vegreville using local grain, in house green malt and prairie moonshine recipes in a locally made 250 and 1,000-gallon Edmonton-made pot stills. Available in liquor stores across Alberta.

4. Invert the cake on the counter or a wire rack and let it cool completely inside the pan. Take a sharp knife and run it around the edge of the pan. Gently remove the cake.

5. You can slice it and serve it as is, with heaps of whipped cream and berries, or with an apple or pear compote and whipped cream on the side. Store the angel food cake in an airtight container on the counter for up to 2 days.

www.redcupdistillery.ca  @redcupdistillery

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published earlier this year.

 RedCupDistillery2015 Vegreville, Alberta, Canada


December Spirits by TOM FIRTH and LINDA GARSON

Simple pleasures are always too over oiliness. Quite smoky on the palate, it has some peaty kick, which the best, and there is beckons one closer to the inevitable fire something decadent about nearby while you drink this. enjoying a fine nip of whisky $85 CSPC +1142050 on a blustery, wintery day, The Macallan Rare Cask staring out of the window Scotland I’ve always had, and will always have, a knowing that “nope!” you soft spot for The Macallan. There is a aren’t going out tonight. wonderful subtlety to the whiskies, and These whiskies and warming spirits are well suited to your home bar, or as a gift for the spirits lover in your life. Enjoy! Glenfarclas 15 Year Old Highland Single Malt Whisky Scotland Made for six generations by the Grant family, Glenfarclas is well-known and well-loved by whisky aficionados. The 15-year old brings a pleasing fiery heat to the nose with Macintosh toffee (remember that?), baked apple, and leather. Bottled at cask strength, I prefer it with a splash of water, but even neat there is great texture and a long, cereal finish. $95 CSPC +380717

Highland Park Valkyrie

Scotland A single edition whisky from Orkney, Highland Park has a deservedly high reputation too. It is the first (of three) in the Viking Legend series, and showcases a fine nose of spice, salt, and cocoa, maybe a little green apple 30

they are perfect for getting people into whisky for the first time. The Rare Cask is a selection of Spanish and American casks, most first-filled and seasoned with sherry. Dried fig, raisin and apricots with a decidedly woody presence on the nose, sweet, smooth, and a touch hot on the finish – I’d suggest a (small) splash of water to open it up. Rare, and worth it. $450 CSPC +774923

Jura Superstition

Scotland With so many peat-bombs out there, it can be hard to find something with only a little smokiness to break your palate in gently. Enter, the Superstition, lightly peated, it’s all about sea salt, iodine, and yes a little oily smokiness when nosed. A

little heat on the palate opens the door to some holiday spice, leather and toffee, very smooth too. $72 CSPC 768161

Glenmorangie Bacalta Malmsey Maderia Casks

Scotland Another welcome addition to the roster of madeira finished whiskies, Bacalta is done in malmsey madeira casks, and with scarcity of good madeiras these days, this will be a rarity too. Lager-like on the nose at first with honey, toasted nut, and slightly floral, the palate is rife with warming flavours like toffee and spice, but that madeira just elevates the game here. Roaring fire nearby? You’ve found your setting to enjoy this. $98 CSPC +796629

Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14 Year Old

Scotland Balvenie will be no stranger to whisky lovers, and much has been written about the 14-year old Caribbean Cask, but for those newer to fine single malt Scotch, it’s easy drinking, creamy and honeyed, and a great place to start. You’ll recognise vanilla, brown sugar, fruit, rum, and a


of toffee, with sherry coming through on the palate to give a Christmas spice finish. $116 CSPC +778838

Gautier XO Pinar Del Rio Cigar Cognac

wee bit of smoke on the nose and palate, but just wait for the rich and satisfying, warming finish! $106 CSPC +741531

Simple pleasures are always the best

Sonoma County Distillers Cherrywood Rye Whiskey

California From Sonoma County, in Northern California, comes this innovative young craft whiskey, made from rye, wheat, and malted barley, locally smoked with Californian cherrywood in Petaluma.

The nose is an enticingly sweet blend of cherries and vanilla, and as the whiskey is aged in new American oak barrels, they are are joined by spice and almonds on the palate. Perfect for an Old Fashioned or Manhattan cocktail. $92 CSPC +791955

Zuidam Millstone 12 Year Old Oloroso Sherry Single Malt

Holland Here’s something you may not have tried before – a 12-year old single malt whiskey from Holland. And it’s impressive. Zuidam distillery creates smaller casks from 50 to 100-year old Oloroso sherry casks to give more flavour from interaction with the wood, and labels all the bottles by hand. A bright orange and ginger nose has hints

France You don’t come across too many cigar cognacs these days, but this specialty cognac is worth checking out. XO Pinar Del Rio was blended with Cuban cigar Master Blender, Alejandro Robaina, and is named after a first class tobacco valley in Cuba. With a label like a cigar band, it’s packaged in a cigar-like tube. Savour the smoky flavours from very old cognac, with a hint of vanilla and bitter orange while you enjoy your Havana cigar. $210 CSPC +778557

Malfy G.Q.D.I. Gin

Italy And for a change of tack, how about gin from Italy? GQDI stands for Gin di Qualità Distillato in Italia, and there are those that will tell you that gin was invented in Italy way before the British and Dutch. Lemons from the Amalfi coast and Sicily are the heart of Malfy Gin, and you’re greeted by vibrant aromas of lemon sorbet, which become richer on the palate, and rounded out with notes of juniper, coriander, liquorice and orange peel. Makes a great G & T and a stunning martini. $40 CSPC +789109

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The Happiest Accident: Pineau des Charentes by LINDA GARSON

Pont-Neuf bridge, Cognac

It’s a wondrous thought that some of our favourite tipples have been invented by accident. Like champagne, brandy, and beer, Pineau des Charentes belongs on this list too. Legend has it that the fortified wine of Cognac, in the Charentais region of western France, was discovered by chance in 1589 when, after pressing his grapes, a grape grower put the must (freshly pressed juice) into what he thought was an empty barrel. But the barrel wasn’t empty; it contained some eau de vie (unaged brandy). When cellar masters found the barrel several years later, we can imagine how overjoyed they must have been to taste this strong and sweet blend of unfermented grape juice and cognac – and Pineau des Charentes was born! Now, Appellation Pineau des Charentes Controlée stipulates that the cognac is at least 60% ABV, resulting in a final alcohol content of 16-22%; contains at least 125 g/L of fruit sugar; and is aged 32

for 18 months, at least one year of which is in oak barrels. Pineau is produced from both white and red grapes, but white is by far the most popular. It is made from the grapes used for cognac – Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard grapes, whereas red Pineau is made from Bordeaux grapes – usually cabernet sauvignon and merlot. In Canada we almost always drink Pineau des Charentes chilled with dessert; the white pairs beautifully with creamy desserts such as crème brûlée, panna cotta, and blue cheese, and try the red with strawberry shortcake! But in France it’s an aperitif, served before the meal with foie gras, mussels and oysters. Of course you can use it in cocktails too – try it in place of sweet vermouth. Expect an intense and seductive nose, drawing you in with heady aromas of brown sugar and honey, dried fruit, almonds, and a tell-tale cognac hint of orange marmalade. However, on the palate you’ll find a refreshing and elegant, bright acidity, and

you’ll question why you ever thought Pineau des Charentes should be drunk with dessert! Santé!

In Alberta, look for: Hardy Le Coq D’or Pineau Des Charentes $25 CSPC + 776421 Chateau De Montifaud Pineau Des Charentes Blanc $29 CSPC + 753627 Chateau De Montifaud Pineau Des Charentes Rouge $29 CSPC + 753625 Godet Pineau Des Charentes White XO $44 CSPC + 791869


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Holiday Desserts:

Pumpkin Tiramisu story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

Are you all ready for the holidays? If not, don’t panic. There’s still plenty of time to do all that needs to get done. You know what I do when I have a to-do list a mile long? Clean my house. Ha! Who are we kidding? I bake, or procrastibake as it were, and if you’re like me and would like to look at pretty pictures of cake rather than hit the mall or power up the vacuum, then I have a delicious dessert that would be a star on any holiday table. 34

Choosing which dessert to serve for Christmas dinner is always the best part of menu planning. Cheesecakes and tortes are all lovely, but for something lighter and easier, I suggest a pumpkin tiramisu. Assembly is quick and painless, and the best part is you prepare it ahead of time to let the flavours meld together. So, on the day of the big event, dessert is out of the way and it’s one less thing for you to fret over. You need lady finger cookies for the tiramisu and I don’t bother making my own. Shhhh... don’t tell anyone. There are tasty ones in the cookie aisle at

the supermarket. I brush the lady fingers with a combination of rum and instant espresso. Spiced apple cider works well if the kiddies will be eating it. Don’t feel like you have to cook a pumpkin for this dessert. If the purée comes out of a can, that’s more than fine, but I do encourage you to grate fresh nutmeg into the creamy mascarpone filling. It’s super aromatic and smells like Christmas. The sprinkling of candied pecans on top of the tiramisu is a spectacular finishing touch – and I have to say it’s a wonder any of the pecans made it to the top of the cake because they are highly addictive!


Pumpkin Tiramisu with Candied Pecans 2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream 1 cup granulated sugar 2 cups (500mL) mascarpone cheese, softened 2 cups (500 m) canned pumpkin purée (not pie filling) 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 1½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves ¼ cup (60 mL) rum ¼ cup (60 mL) strong brewed coffee or espresso 3 packages of ladyfingers (approx. 150g each box)

1. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk

attachment, beat the whipping cream and sugar on high speed until stiff peaks form. Remove to another bowl. In the same bowl that you beat the cream (don’t bother washing it), beat together the mascarpone, pumpkin and spices on medium speed until combined, scraping down the sides. Add the whipped cream and sugar mixture, and beat on medium speed until thick and combined.

2. In a small bowl, combine the rum and coffee.

3. Line the bottom and sides of a

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9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. I like to cut a circle out for the

base and a strip or two for the sides. Layer ⅓ of the ladyfingers on the bottom.

4. Using a pastry brush, thoroughly

soak the cookies with the rum/coffee mixture. Spread ⅓ of the pumpkin mixture over top. Layer in another third of ladyfingers, brush with the rum/ coffee mixture and spread with a third of the pumpkin mixture. Do the same for the third layer, finishing with the the pumpkin filling. You may have some ladyfingers left over.

Candied Pecans

¹/³ cup packed brown sugar ¹/³ cup granulated sugar 1 tsp coarse salt 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 large egg white 1 Tbs (15 mL) water 1 cup pecan halves

Preheat the oven to 300° F.

1. Place a rack in the centre of

the oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Mix the sugars, salt and cinnamon The best part is you prepare it ahead of time to let the flavours meld together

5. Cover the tiramisu with plastic wrap

and refrigerate for at least 12 hours, but the longer the wait, the better it is.

6. Sprinkle generously with chopped

candied pecans. Remove the sides of the springform pan as well as the parchment paper. If you are comfortable with sliding the cake off the parchment and onto a platter then do so, otherwise place the tiramisu on a cake stand or large platter. Be sure to watch out for the parchment paper when serving. The tiramisu keeps well in the refrigerator for up to four days.

together in a small bowl. In a medium bowl, beat the egg white and water together until frothy, not stiff. Add the pecans to the egg white, tossing to coat. Add the sugar mixture and toss again so everything is evenly coated.

3. Spread the nuts onto the prepared

baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Remove from the oven and separate the nuts as they cool. Chop, and sprinkle on top of the tiramisu. The nuts keep well in an airtight container for up to two weeks. Note: The Candied Pecans are also wonderful with the addition of 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Perfect for gift giving!


Making The Case: For Holiday Wines by TOM FIRTH

Are you ready yet for the holidays? No matter what, it always seems like holiday feasting and entertaining sneaks up without warning. Before we know it, it seems like ugly sweaters and stretchy pants are the order of the day, and there is no better time of year to break out a nice bottle from the cellar or bring something special to a night out. Matching wines for the holidays isn’t really that hard, personally I try to keep on hand intense rieslings (mostly for me, but I’m happy to share), aromatic

whites, and a balance of lighter reds that ooze food friendliness, like pinot noir and gamay, but also some heavier reds in case beef is on the menu. Don’t forget that this time of year is as good as any for opening a bottle of the bubbly – either to celebrate any occasion with friends or family, or if you are someone who still manages to stay up late enough to toast the New Year! Speaking of which, may you have a safe and happy holiday season, and a happy New Year!

Black Hills 2016 Viognier Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Sleek and intense (like all viognier should be) with fresh stone fruit and pear aromas while palate-wise unctuous with clean fruits, mineral, and a pleasing oiliness at the back. A warmer-climate style of viognier for sure, but perfect for the last days of summer – or the cellar. About $25 CSPC +746273

La Gioiosa Rosea Brut Spumante, Italy What a pretty wine, from the softest, ballet slipper pink colour, to the slightly dusty floral aromas with strawberries, vanilla, and apple peel. Quite dry, with good harmony of flavours especially the bright and juicy fruit flavours. Very quaffable, and very well priced too. Keep on hand for a pink wine sort of day. $19 CSPC +7914221

Comte de Dampierre “Cuvee d’ Ambassador” Premier Cru Champagne Champagne, France A tremendous buy for 1er cru champagne, with bready, pretzel dough aromas, and pressed apple and slate tones. Rich and quite nutty over the mid palate with a long, and expanding finish. Like any good champagne, it makes me hungry for fresh fruit, dessert, or anything really. A fine bottle. Around $60-64 CSPC +768152


Norman Hardie 2016 Riesling, Ontario Certainly one of those tension-laden, steely rieslings that just taste so damn good. Clean tropical fruits with plenty of tart apple, mineral, and a touch of well-balanced sweetness. Perfectly quaffable, it would be a pleasure to enjoy with a holiday bird, or some appetizers while entertaining. About $31 CSPC +758469

Henkell NV Rosé, Germany Fitting squarely in the “what a deal” category, this inexpensive German sparkler showcases soft summery fruit aromas of strawberry and raspberry with mineral and a light toastiness. Some slightly coarse bubbles tickle the palate letting bright, if tart, fruits forward. A heck of a wine for a heck of a price. $11-13 CSPC +736724

Quail’s Gate 2015 Old Vines Foch Reserve Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Marechal Foch is probably the most mainstream hybrid red variety in Canada, and probably no one does it better than Quail’s Gate. Deeply coloured, with smoky, earthy aromas laden with cocoa, green coffee bean, cherry and charred wood. Black fruits and earth dominate the palate, but that mild smoky flavour should work with duck confit or pot roasts. $35 CSPC +639666

CedarCreek 2014 Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

JoieFARM 2015 Gamay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A beautiful and slightly austere riesling with intense slate and mineral tones on the nose and palate. Quite dry, with steely acids and a drawn out apple and lime finish. Start to finish? A delicious riesling suitable for any holiday feast. $15-16 CSPC +217166

One of my favourite examples of gamay on Alberta shelves, what’s not to love about peppered strawberries, coconut, and a touch of herb? Well balanced, with clean, friendly fruits, I think it’s a smash hit with game meats, pork, or just a little cheese. $32 CSPC +760431

Schramsberg 2012 Blanc de Noir Napa Valley, California

Laurent Dufouleur 2015 “La Minée” Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France

Made with about 88 percent pinot noir, the aromas are bright and just a little toasty exhibiting tart apples and mineral tones. Flavours are leaner rather than unctuous, with a long, citric finish. Buy and keep if you can as Schramsberg keeps well in the cellar at least 5-7 years. About $47 CSPC +342840

Pinot noir is one of the greats when it comes to pairing with food – it goes with almost anything. Cherry, spice box, and tomato leaf on the nose with softer tannins, tart, clean fruits, and a long finish. Would shine with duck confit, roasted salmon, or yes… even turkey and all the fixings. $24 CSPC +788312

Tantalus 2014 Blanc de Noirs Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Black Hills 2015 Syrah Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Made entirely from a single block of pinot noir grapes at the Tantalus estate, this blanc de noirs release is a much-anticipated wine around my place. A bare hint of salmon colouring in the glass, with green apple fruits, slate and flint mineral tones, melon and toast on the nose. Bright and clean; lovely tart apple flavours bring out the appetite. Pair with anything, but I think apple crumble, freshly prepared seafood, or NYE appetizers will work. Around $32-35 CSPC +784083

Year after year, the Okanagan “style” of syrah becomes more apparent. The nose is rife with smoke and cigarette ash notes over cherry fruits, charred tomato, and cocoa. The palate is remarkably consistent with the nose, though a solid core of berry fruits elevates and balances the smokiness. Delicious, try with a platter of cured and smoked meats perhaps? About $40 CSPC +746272 37


Gadgets, Apps, Glass And Contraptions:

The 5 Wine Accessories You Need by ADRIAN BRYKSA

and is easy to clean. All very important It doesn’t take a ton of effort to considerations. One of my favourite figure out which wine accessories features is its ability to rest on its side are duds. A quick search on Kijiji maximizing the amount of air exposure to the wine. unearths a “treasure” trove of coolers, racks, aerators and kitschy Who should have it? stemware – the next “must have” is A decanter is essential for any level enthusiast. I use the same one for often the next “why did I ever….?” of red or white so don’t get fooled into While well intentioned, these gadgets often typically fall short and end up as garage sale or thrift store fodder. There is no doubt that there are a ton of wine gizmos and related apparatus to clutter your house, but there is a handful that most wine enthusiasts shouldn’t live without. I’ve tested and trialed these accessories, and I’m confident you’ll want these on hand too.

A good Decanter

What is it?

A decanter has many benefits for wine – most notably its ability to aerate a youthful wine, open up an older wine, and potentially filter out sediment in older wines ahead of service or dinner. While form can easily replace function, ones shaped like cobras or swans may quickly become an “objet d’art” or something to dust rather than a decanter to use regularly. Reidel Cabernet Decanter 38

My preference is the Riedel Cabernet design as it looks great, gets the job done,

thinking you need a different one for each. Just make sure you put it away clean so it’s ready to use. The Reidel Cabernet decanter is around $70-90, though good decanters can be had for less or much, much more. Retailers like HomeSense and Hudson’s Bay are good places to check too. While many fine wine shops may also have a selection of glass ware.

Sparkling Wine Bottle Stopper

What is it?

The champagne/sparkling wine bottle stopper acts as a replacement for the typical cork enclosure once a bottle of bubbles has been opened, letting your sparkling wine keep a few extra days. They have a rubberized gasket that fits over the mouth of the bottle with two telescoping wings that catch the glass lip of your bottle of bubbly. The gasket is spring-loaded, and when the wings are fitted to the bottle the spring is compressed, and the stopper’s rubber lip presses the bottle to effectively seal those precious little CO2 bubbles.


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Sparkling Wine Bottle Stopper

I recommend one that is lint free, easy to clean, and has enough material to erase smudges, fingerprints, lipstick, and sticky tannin from your glassware. You’ll be amazed at the gunk this handy little cloth picks up and it will make your glass shine, ready for the next pour. Hand wash with a little bleach and it returns to new form -but try to keep one or two exclusively for your glassware.

Who should have it?

Anyone wanting glassware or decanters that gleam by daylight or by candlelight. Around $13 from Stokes (stokesstores.com), kitchen shops, or some fine wine shops.

Coravin

Who should have it?

Bubble lovers who want just a glass or two and to preserve the experience for up to 3 days. Price: Around $12 and up at many Alberta liquor stores or kitchenware shops.

Microfibre Polishing Cloth

What is it?

Restaurant sommeliers might swear by paper coffee filters but a polishing cloth is critical to properly maintain glassware.

What is it?

The Coravin is an absolute miracle of engineering. Designed for wines sealed under cork, it provides the ability to pour a glass (or taste) without opening the bottle. It uses a small needle to puncture the cork, allowing wine out through a small spigot, while argon gas is introduced into the bottle to seal the wine, preventing oxidization. The result is being able to enjoy the same bottle over and over again without sacrificing its freshness.

Coravin 1000 System

Who should have it?

Serious collectors, enthusiasts, or cellar builders that may want to assess bottle progression without having to commit entirely to opening the bottle. Restaurants are also using the Coravin for glass pour programs as it reduces waste and allows for higher end bottles to be considered – which is awesome. The Coravin 1000 System is about $385-400 for the base unit and 2 argon capsules. Additional capsules are about $15 each.

Wine Apps

What are they?

Since most of us don’t leave home without a mobile device, there are a couple of wine applications that are indispensable to the enthusiast or wine professional. Arguably the best ones are CellarTracker and Wine Spectator’s Wine Rating +. Cellartracker provides crowd sourced wine reviews, while the Wine Rating + app has free information relating to vintages, regions and varietals in major regions around the world. Using these tools together guides purchase decisions, especially for wines that may be new to you. Microfibre Polishing Cloth 40


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Wine Spectatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine Rating + app

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Who should have it? Technophiles or anyone who has a mobile device and buys wine. Price: Both the CellarTracker and Wine Rating + apps are free from the IOS app or Google Play stores. Premium content and reviews are available from the Wine Rating + app at nominal cost.

Cellartracker app

Please enjoy responsibly.

life


Open That Bottle story by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“Whatever path you choose, you’re going to be doing that for eight hours a day minimum. If you don’t like it, if you’re not having fun, then you might not have a happy life,” says BT’s Andrew Schultz. When Schultz was six years old, his father was transferred from Edmonton to Calgary, where he’s stayed the rest of his life. After school he had no career plans, but was persuaded by his brother to take the broadcasting program at the then Mount Royal College, instead of his general studies courses. “I discovered that you have to do courses that interest you, but it’s time to be looking for a career, so I went into the broadcast program with one goal – and because I very much loved movies, I wanted to be a movie reviewer,” Schultz explains.

Schultz worked five days a week for two years in Red Deer plus in Edmonton on weekends before moving to a position at Global TV in 2001, and then to City TV in 2005. He also worked on weather for different radio stations, and with CBC as a producer and back-up host for the Homestretch and Wild Rose Country. In 2009, he became a meteorologist after an intensive three-year distance-learning program from Mississippi State University.

which is three years ago. It’s still there, so that was a shock, and I don’t even know who we received the gift from.”

What bottle does he have tucked away for a special occasion?

“Because it did come from the wedding, it’s a chance to reflect and understand that this bottle was bought specifically for our wedding. I’m sure most people would say “let’s save this for our anniversary,” and we accidently saved it,” he laughs.

He was fortunate to be hired as a production assistant in Calgary, and at the age of 22, and having only been on family camping trips, he was sent to New York and Los Angeles to talk to Hollywood stars like Eddie Murphy, Sandra Bullock, and Steve Martin.

Schultz has a bottle of Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée. “What’s really cool about this bottle is that since I’ve been married, I’ve moved house,” says Schultz. We’ve got a cabinet in the basement, and we keep that cabinet shut, and keep it away from the kids – and I love wine, so the wine goes quickly in our house.”

A few years later, Schultz moved with the company to Red Deer, mingling with RDTV, a local TV station. “I made friends with the meteorologist, and he told me he was going on holidays but he was really leaving, so he trained me to be his backup, and I ended being a weather presenter on RDTV in 1996,” he says.

“I don’t drink much hard alcohol, but I do enjoy champagne,” he adds. “So it’s interesting, because when I was contacted for this I opened the cabinet, and I saw this boxed bottle of champagne and realised that it came from our wedding,

42

And when will Schultz open the bottle? Now that it’s a discovered treasure, Schultz says he’s guessing that they’ll open it for an anniversary, and it will make that anniversary extra special because the bottle has been squirrelled away for three years.

“I like to think that to mark an occasion like that and to reflect back, it’s about the people you’re with and enjoying that time, so for my wife Amanda and myself it will be a special time. I think it’s pretty neat that we don’t even have a plan at this point to enjoy that bottle. Who knows how many years we’ll have that bottle? Maybe we’ll wait to the 10th, the 20th, or the 25th anniversary – who knows?”


hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to another decade of satisfied cravings cravings market restaurant | 7207 fairmount drive se | @cravingsyyc


Culinaire #6:7 (December 2017)  

Culinaire serves up features on dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails. Published ten times a year, Culinaire can be found...

Culinaire #6:7 (December 2017)  

Culinaire serves up features on dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails. Published ten times a year, Culinaire can be found...

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