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ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 6 NO.6 :: NOVEMBER 2017

WARMING W WAYS I

D O O F

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K N I R AND D

ITH CHA

E D I U G T MUSTARD

THE UNSUNG HERO OF THE PRAIRIES

Warming Up for Winter | IBUs and IPAs | The Long and Short of Rice


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32 VOLUME 6 / ISSUE #6 NOVEMBER 2017

Features 16

Warm Your Winter In chai-mazing ways! Experiment with this flavourful spice-blend in your recipes by Natalie Findlay

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Culinaire Gift Guide Choosing for food and beverage lovers? Our gift ideas are all Canadian this year! by Linda Garson

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Eat, Drink and Be Merry! Escape from the cold with drinks, food, and fun activities all under one roof by Silvia Pikal

14 The Long and Short of Rice 10 varieties, and how to use them by Laura Lushington

32 Warming Cocktails …for cool nights by Linda Garson

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

20 The “Perfect” Arepa This Venezuelan dish is catching on! by Eva Colmenero

34 Making the Case For Wine Variety is the spice of life by Tom Firth

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Off The Menu – Foreign Concept’s Red Curry Sauce

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Soup Kitchen

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Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

26 Mustard – A Beloved Alberta Staple More versatile than you might expect by Renee Kohlman

28 What’s The IBUs of Your IPAs? Bitterness units and India Pale Ales by David Nuttall

30 Private Chefs Bringing the restaurant experience home by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

39 Quality and Innovation Spirits from Alberta craft distillers by Tom Firth with Linda Garson

42 Open That Bottle Margaux Burgess of Alberta Liquor Store Association and Lingua Vina Sommelier Services by Linda Garson

On the Cover: Many thanks to Duncan Ly and Jinhee Lee at Foreign Concept for their red curry sauce dish (recipe on page 8) and to Ingrid Kuenzel for photographing it in action!

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Letter From The Editor national dish has been Chicken Tikka Masala, which we enjoy come rain or shine), and with the nights drawing in, there’s more opportunity to experiment and play in the kitchen. I’m always so grateful to our chefs who generously share their recipes, and broaden our horizons with their expertise and ideas. Talking of broadening horizons, who knew that you can use one of my favourite ingredients – mustard – in your desserts? The chocolate brownies on page 27 are amazing! Thanks so much to Renee Kohlman for the recipe. I love this time of year; when the weather starts to cool down, we start to warm up. For me, the signal for the start of the season is the change from using fresh cut herbs to spices and more exotic flavours in our food and drinks. It’s no secret that I like spicy food (well, for many years the British

And chai! This warming blend of spices is becoming really popular now, and can be used to flavour every course of your meal, and your drinks too. Look for new ideas on page 16. Particularly enjoyable for me at this time of year is gathering together so many of our favourite ideas for

our holiday gift guide. With the spotlight firmly on our own country this year, it’s been a joy to discover some of the artisans and craftspeople on our doorstep, and to let you know of their unique products as well as some favourites further afield. We’re looking right now for someone to join our team – are you an experienced salesperson who’d like to work with us to grow the magazine in Edmonton and beyond? If so, we’d love to hear from you! Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Correction: In the lead up to our 2017 Alberta Beverage Awards results, Medicine Hat Brewing Company (MHBC) was mistakenly informed that their Industrial IPA had won Best in Class for the IPA category, when it was awarded a Judges Selection. Our sincere apologies to MHBC.

Buon Natale. (bwon-nah-TAL-ay)

This is how we say ‘Merry Christmas’ in Italy, but it really means we wish you and yours all the best of the Holiday Season.

Have a cookie. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

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CALGARY Willow Park

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Discover The Taste ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Calgary Sales Director: Greg Mitchell 587-224-3270 greg@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Creative Director: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Eva Colmenero web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Dan Clapson Eva Colmenero Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Dong Kim Renee Kohlman Laura Lushington David Nuttall Silvia Pikal

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Eva Colmenero

Eva is Culinaire’s multimedia editor. She manages our website, social media, and more. She graduated with a Journalism degree from Mount Royal University before doing a three-year stint as an English teacher in South Korea. Now back in Calgary, she has made it her mission to go to at least one new restaurant per week. When she’s not eating or working, she enjoys reading books and baking cakes. Follow her on Twitter @evac88

< Ingrid Kuenzel

Ingrid moved from Germany to Calgary at three years old. Fortunate to spend many trips touring European historical sites, vineyards and breweries, she is fascinated by modern architecture, sampling culinary delights along the way, always with camera in one hand, most often coffee, wine or beer in the other. As a freelance commercial photographer, Ingrid specializes in great food, drink, and the people making it. She’s at ingridkue.com, @ingridkue

< Laura Lushington

Laura is the creator behind A Lush Life — a healthy living blog showcasing how eating simply can become lush-cious. Food is connected to the emotions inspiring each dish, where healthy ingredients rule, and the home of her story of living with chronic migraine, depression and anxiety. She spends her time researching how what you eat greatly affects your body and being a chronic illness warrior. Find Laura at alushlife.ca or @alushlifeblog

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Of Naturally Grown Farm Lamb Sustainably Grown & Humanely Treated Without Animal By-Products or Growth Promotants With a dedication to provide a wholesome and nutritious product, our animals are fed a mixture of oats, barley, yellow peas and alfalfa hay grown on our farm, and allowed to pasture graze during the summer months.

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Salutes... Great Grilled Cheese Cook Off

Congrats to Springbank Cheese, whose Great Grilled Cheese Cook Off raised $2,207 for Brown Bagging for Calgary’s

Kids – and to 1st place winner, Great Events Catering Corporate Exec Chef Daryl Kerr; Chef Ross Hanson of Grizzly Paw Brewing in 2nd Place, and 3rd place Chef de Cuisine Dean Mitchel, of Saffron Personal Chef Services. And congrats to chocolatier Rebecca Grant of Edmonton’s Violet Chocolate Company, who has added four awards to 33 previous wins at the Canadian National Semi Final Competition for the International Chocolate Awards. Honey Rosemary bar was recognized

for the fifth straight year, Cranberry Pine took home Bronze, and both Lemon Espresso and the new Pomegranate & Turmeric won Silver. And to GM Philip Wong (formerly of Amaranth and Koi) on renovating Bite Grocer & Eatery in Calgary’s Inglewood. Long-time Calgary chef, Jody Barned, is overseeing the kitchen; pastry chef, Laura Harvey, is leading the in-house bakery, and Mike Paterson (from Big Fish) is the new in-house butcher. Check it out, there’s an hour free parking in the rear too!

and Shout Outs... Pie Junkie

Courtesy Perry Thompson

Pie Junkie (formerly Pie Hole) has celebrated their second anniversary by opening a second store on 2nd Avenue NW in Kensington, Calgary. Their sweet and savoury pies are made from scratch with an all-butter crust and homemade fillings, and for the Holidays they will also be available at Calgary’s brand new Granary Road market.

is now open at Calgary’s Deerfoot City. This giant complex is for foodies as well as fun-seekers; try Canadianinspired cuisine at the upscale casual Three10, (named after Canada’s three territories and 10 provinces). With one of the largest wood-fired grills in Canada, pizzas cook in 90 seconds! The Shed is a quick service area that includes a custom donut bar, as well as a poutinerie offering delicious toppings like smoked brisket, lobster and wild mushrooms. Multiple bars serve draught wines and sangria, 16 draught beers, and signature cocktails.

The team at Cassis Bistro has opened The Little French Market next to their 17th Avenue SW, Calgary space. Offering specialty products from France, fine foods, fresh pastries, l’epicerie, cheese, meals to takeaway, and local produce, this bright new space has white washed wood, lots of natural light and … tempting scents of French baguette and coffee in the air. Open 7 days, 9 am - 8 pm. Bonus – free underground customer parking!

Merchant Hospitality’s Holy Roller has now joined El Cortez and Have Mercy in Edmonton’s Old Strathcona historic Crawford Block. It’s a café and a restaurant with murals, neon signs, unusual antiques, and a wall of herbs. Exec chef Rafael D’Alcazar’s eclectic menu ranges from Detroit-style pizza to pintxos, poke bowls and Mexican cacao chocolate truffles. We know there’s a great cocktail and wine list as it’s curated by GM Chris Krock. The cafe opens at 8 am for coffee and light meals, while the restaurant opens 4 pm weekdays, and 11 am weekends.

In addition to South Edmonton and West Edmonton Mall, The Rec Room

In one year, husband and wife Nadine and Rob Eden (ex Blue Star Diner) got

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married, had a baby and bought a restaurant – The Eden on 9 Avenue SE in Inglewood. This family-oriented, two-level eatery pays homage to Rob’s dad, wellloved Calgarian, Bob Eden. Chef Mukesh Painuli’s (ex Blink Restaurant) lunch and dinner menu features home-cooked French classics such as Lyonnaise Salad, Sole Meuniere, and Beef Bourguignon, and you’ll find elevated classic 80s cocktails, like Monkey’s Lunch and Kamakaze too, all at very approachable prices. Open 7 days, 11 am-10 pm.

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Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Some restaurant dishes are so memorable that you dream about them at night. This Red Curry Sauce from Foreign Concept is one of those dishes, and much requested by people who’ve enjoyed it. Many thanks to chefs Duncan Ly and Jinhee Lee for sharing their recipe.

Foreign Concept’s Red Curry Sauce Serves 4

1½ stalks lemongrass, pounded ½ yellow onion, diced large 60 mL ginger, thin sliced ½ bulb of garlic, peeled and smashed 2 Tbs (30 mL) vegetable oil 2 scallions, white parts only 2 lime leaves ½ bunch of cilantro 25 g palm sugar 55 g red curry paste 3 ¹⁄³ cups (800 mL) vegetable stock 1 can (400 mL) coconut milk 2 limes, juiced Fish sauce to season

1. Sweat lemongrass, yellow onions, ginger, and garlic in vegetable oil until vegetables are soft.

2. Add scallions, lime leaves,

cilantro, and palm sugar, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

3. Add curry paste and cook for

about 5 minutes, stirring constantly.

4. Add vegetable stock and

cook about 40 minutes, then add coconut milk and simmer for a further 30 minutes.

5. Put through a fine strainer.

Season with lime juice, fish sauce and salt if desired. If there’s a dish in a local restaurant that you’d love to make, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you! 8


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Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON

Now that the warm weather has officially left us, soup can regain its rightful spot in the limelight of your kitchen table. This soup uses the warming essence of cinnamon, braised pork and the punch of a spicy jalapeno chimichurri to help keep

you cozy at dinnertime (lunchtime too) after a not-so-nice November.

Braised Pork and Swiss Chard Soup with Jalapeno Chimichurri Serves 3-4 Total prep and cook time 40 minutes

Chimichurri sauce: 1 clove garlic 1 small jalapeno, halved, seeds removed ½ cup fresh parsley leaves ½ cup fresh oregano Cilantro 1 lemon, zested and juiced 1 Tbs (15 mL) white wine vinegar 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil To taste salt and pepper

Soup: 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced 6 cups chicken broth 1 cinnamon stick 2 red potatoes, diced 4 Swiss chard leaves, finely chopped 2 cups (300 g approx.) cooked pork shoulder, pulled

Chimichurri: Place all ingredients except oil in a food processor and pulse until a fine paste forms. Transfer to a small bowl, add oil, stir well to combine. Season with salt and pepper and set aside for now. 10

Soup: 1. Heat oil in a large pot on medium-high heat. Add onions and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.

2. Next, add broth, cinnamon and

potatoes and cook until potatoes are tender, approximately 10 minutes.

3. Add Swiss chard, braised pork and allow to cook for another

10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. To serve, ladle soup into bowls and top with a spoonful or two of the chimichurri sauce. Serve with grilled or toasted bread. Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside


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Chefs' Tips

Tricks!

Variety Is The Spice Of Life!

by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL and DONG KIM

The days of dusty spice cabinets filled with questionable jars of garlic powder, stale chilli flakes, and maybe some expired Italian seasoning are long gone. Spices in all forms, from sweet to savoury, have made a huge resurgence in the past few years, and home cooked meals are all the better for it. If you’re looking to expand your repertoire even further, these chefs have some great tips on unique and modern uses for your favourite spices… and maybe even some you’ve never tried cooking with before!

Chef Andrew Keen Murrieta’s, Calgary

When it comes to spices, proper use starts with basic care and storage, before you even start cooking.

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Chef Andrew Keen recommends buying your spices in small amounts, whole if possible, and storing them in airtight containers to ensure they stay fresh as long as possible. “Fresh grated nutmeg will change your life!” he proclaims. He also encourages thinking outside the box when it comes to even the most basic spices in your spice cabinet. Spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and cloves, are traditionally reserved for sweets like carrot cake, or gingerbread, but they also work incredibly well with spicy flavours, like cayenne pepper. These “Christmas Spices” as Chef Keen calls them, are also great in deep

Chef Andrew Keen

braised beef dishes, to give an earthy, complex flavour. They may not be the first additions that come to mind when you think about cooking with red meat,


but they really do add depth, and a level of comfort that is very welcome as the temperatures start to drop. If you’re still not convinced, all the more reason to try Chef Keen’s braised lamb shanks with cumin, coriander, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg for yourself!

Spice Braised Lamb Shank Serves 4

4 Alberta lamb shanks To taste salt and pepper 6 Tbs (100 mL) extra virgin olive oil 300 g white onion, small dice 250 g celery, small dice 300 g carrots, small dice 5 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs ground cumin ½ Tbs ground coriander ½ Tbs ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground allspice 1 tsp fresh grated nutmeg 2 cups (500 mL) red wine ½ cup (120 mL) tomato paste 8 cups (2 L) vegetable stock 8 cups (2 L) Roma tomatoes, diced

Ingredients like tamarind come in multiple forms, from whole pods, to pastes

1. Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper.

2. Place on a roasting rack and “sear” in a 450º F oven for 15 minutes.

3. In a large saucepan, sweat onions, celery and carrots in olive oil.

4. Add spices and continue to cook over medium heat for 5 minutes.

5. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer for 20 minutes.

6. Place shanks in a deep ovenproof dish and cover with sauce.

7. Braise at 300º F for 5 hours.

Chef Andrew Fung

XIX Nineteen, Edmonton For Andrew Fung, chef of XIX Nineteen in Edmonton, working with spices is more involved than simply picking them up at your local grocery store and using them as directed in your recipe of choice. “I like to know and understand where my spices are coming from, what they look like, and how they taste, well before I add them into any given recipe,” Chef Fung explains. For example, ingredients like tamarind come in multiple forms, from whole pods, to pastes. But given that it’s not common knowledge, you wouldn’t know until you looked into it. Not only does this initial research help you to know exactly what you’re working with, you can also draw inspiration from traditional uses of the spices. “With my southeast Asian background, we use a lot of spices in our stews and seafood,” comments Chef Fung. Spices also come in many different forms that are suitable for a variety of applications. Ginger, which is typically used in spicy curries, is also the perfect addition to pumpkin desserts, like Fung’s pumpkin cheesecake. It’s true what they say; variety IS the spice of life! Chef Andrew Fung

Pumpkin Cheesecake Makes 7 small cheesecakes

335 g cream cheese ¾ cup sugar ½ tsp lemon zest 2 eggs 225 g pumpkin puree ¼ cup (60 mL) full fat yogurt 14% 1 tsp all purpose flour ½ tsp vanilla paste ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp ground ginger ¹⁄8 tsp fresh grated nutmeg ¹⁄8 tsp allspice small pinch salt

1. Blend cream cheese and sugar together until smooth.

2. Mix in the lemon zest and add the eggs one at a time.

3. Add in the pumpkin puree and yogurt. Mix to incorporate.

4. Add the flour and remaining spices into mixture, ensuring they are well incorporated.

5. Pour the mixture into tinfoil cups

sprayed with pan spray. Place them in a shallow dish and fill the sides halfway up with hot water.

6. Bake at 350º F (with no fan) for 25 to 35 minutes. Cool and enjoy!

Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat 13


The Long And Short Of Rice by LAURA LUSHINGTON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Maybe you remember rice showering down on you at your wedding or the first time you tried to cook it on your own and the big gooey mess that followed. Whether the memory leaves you with a smile or a scowl, the rice you pictured in your mind is probably basic white rice — the carb we all know and love.

But rice is a worldwide grain and showcases worldly flavours depending on the type. Here are 10 varieties of rice and how to use them.

Golden Rose Brown Rice

Thai Red Rice

If you’re transitioning from white rice in your everyday cooking to long grain brown rice, this might be a good in-between stage. As whole-grain, it’s high in nutrients, antioxidants, and fibre, and can help stabilize blood sugar levels. Like other brown rice varieties, it takes up to 50 minutes to cook.

Jasmine White Rice

Originating in Thailand, this long grain rice is known for its delicate floral scent and soft, sticky texture. It is perfect for southeast Asian cooking and rice-based desserts. Cook 1 cup rice in 1½ cups of water, or for softer rice add a little more water and cook longer. 14

Next time you spice up your rice game try Thai Red Rice, a whole-grain known for its reddish-brown exterior and white interior. This unpolished rice has a nutty flavour and chewy consistency. Cook like traditional rice: 1 part rice to 1½ parts water. To ensure it is cooked to a soft texture, see if the red kernel has burst open. It can be used in place of brown rice in any recipe.

Arborio Rice

If you love risotto, then you love arborio rice because it’s the essential component of the classic Italian dish. This short-grain rice is fat and round, and has a pearl exterior. Arborio is used in risotto because it cooks to a smooth, creamy consistency. In contrast to other types, Arborio Rice is cooked al-dente – slightly firm.

Long Grain Brown Rice

Cook 1 cup of rice in 1¾ – 2 cups of water for 40-45 minutes. For even tastier brown rice, try toasting it before cooking in a teaspoon of oil. Brown rice goes rancid faster than white rice, so store it in airtight container and buy fresh every six months.

Sushi Rice

The shorter the rice, the stickier it will be. This Japanese super short-grain variety cooks to a gooey, chewy, sticky texture that holds its shape. Rinse before cooking until the water runs clear then add rice and water in a 1:1 ratio into a pot. What really sets sushi rice apart is that it is seasoned after cooking using a mixture of rice wine vinegar, sugar and salt.


Basmati Rice

This nutty, fragrant, long grain rice comes from the foothills of the Himalayas in Pakistan and India. Both white and brown varieties are available; the brown providing whole-grain nutritional benefits. Rinse the rice before cooking to remove excess starch and help maintain a light, fluffy texture once cooked.

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Forbidden Black Rice

This exotic-named rice adds a sense of intrigue to any dish. Centuries ago only Chinese royalty ate it, and it’s also called Chinese Black Rice. It’s an heirloom rice that until recently hasn’t been grown on a large scale as it’s hard to grow. It is high in antioxidants, fibre, iron and protein, and similar to brown rice in taste and texture. It is the super food of rice varieties.

Wild Rice

Your ticket to Canadian “rice”. Wild rice isn’t a grain but the seed of a semi-aquatic grass found near the Upper Great Lakes of the U.S. and Canada. It’s gluten-free and known for its high protein, fibre content, and amino acids. It cooks longer than rice but can be cooked like pasta, draining the water afterwards.

Edmonton-made pot stills. Available in liquor stores across Alberta.

Thai Black Rice

Also known as Purple Sticky Rice or Black Sticky Rice, Thai Black Rice is a glutinous rice often used in desserts or sweet snacks. The grains, when cooked, turn burgundy, taste nutty and are sticky. Uncooked, it resembles wild rice’s varied colours. In Thailand you’ll find it in kao neow dahm — a warm coconut rice pudding (Kao – rice, neow – sticky, dahm – black).

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Laura is the creator behind A Lush Life — a healthy living blog showcasing how eating simply can become lush-cious. Connect with her at alushlife.ca or @alushlifeblog

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Chai-mazing Ways To Warm Your Winter story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

Let’s start off with a bit of clarification... Saying, “chai tea” is the equivalent of saying, “tea tea”. Chai literally means tea. Masala chai means mixed-spice tea which is more in line with what most people refer to as chai. The flavourful blend of spices makes for a wonderful, warming drink. Adapting the base spices into other dishes allows you to have a chai-licious cold-weather warm-up that will have coffee lovers hankering for a bit of tea. The recipe below is a guide to discovering your favourite masala chai blend. You can alter the spices and flavours to create your own house blend. A friend, originally from India, adds fresh mint leaves to his 16

house masala chai mix. He says that each family has their own special house blend. If you love the recipe below, keep using it! If you want to experiment to create your own house blend, enjoy the discovery.

1. Boil the chai spices in 3½ cups

(875 mL) water for 3 minutes, then steep 10 minutes.

2. Add your tea bag or leaves and bring back to a boil, then simmer 5 minutes.

Masala Chai Makes 3 mugs

6 cloves, crushed 3 bay leaves 1½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed 1½ cinnamon sticks, crushed 3 star anise seed pods, crushed 12 green Cardamom pods, crushed ¾ tsp black peppercorns, crushed 4 cm ginger root, peeled and roughly chopped 1 tea bag black tea or 1 Tbs loose leaves 3 Tbs (45 mL) honey ½ cup (120mL) milk

Masala chai means mixed-spice tea

3. Add the honey and milk and warm through.

4. Strain through a cheesecloth. 5. Serve immediately, or you can

let it sit on the stove and simmer for 15 minutes for a stronger taste. Can be refrigerated for 3 days.


Chai Shortbread Cookies Makes 20 cookies

2. Mix on low speed with the paddle

¾ cup (170 g) butter, room temperature 2 cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup icing sugar 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 1½ tsp ground cardamom Pinch ground black pepper ½ tsp ground fennel Pinch ground cloves ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp black tea (from a tea bag or ground) ¼ cup (55g) candied ginger, small dice Sugar to garnish

attachment until all ingredients have been combined evenly.

Preheat oven to 350º F

12 minutes then turn the baking sheet around and continue baking another 3 to 5 minutes or until golden brown.

1. Add butter to the mixing bowl of a stand mixer, then sift flour, icing sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, black pepper, fennel, cloves, salt, and black tea into the mixing bowl.

3. Add the candied ginger to the bowl and mix until incorporated.

4. Shape the dough in a ball and

flatten slightly. Chill for 5 minutes.

5. Dust your workspace with flour and gently roll out your dough in a rectangle shape about 1 cm thick. Cut your dough into squares or rectangles, or another shape.

6. Place on a baking sheet and bake for

7. Remove from oven and dust with granulated sugar. Remove cookies from cookie sheet and let cool.


Chai-amisu

Yes, you can use tea to make a tiramisu. Makes 4 servings, and can easily be multiplied for a larger group ½ cup + 1/3 cup (200 mL) milk ¼ cup sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp ground Cardamom 1½ Tbs cornstarch 3½ cups (875 mL) masala chai, see recipe above, cooled, no milk added 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream 1 cup (250 g) mascarpone 16 ladies fingers Ground cinnamon, to garnish Ground ginger, to garnish

Chai literally means tea

1. To make the cardamom pastry

cream, heat the milk and half the sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat until starting to boil.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl add the eggs, the other half of the sugar, the cardamom and the cornstarch. Whisk until thick.

3. Very slowly pour the milk into the

egg mixture (keep whisking so the eggs don’t scramble). Add the mixture back into the pot and whisk until the sauce thickens and bubbles and cook another 2 minutes, whisking the whole time. Remove from heat, strain and let cool.

4. Pour cooled chai into a container that you can dip the ladyfingers into.

5. Whip the whipping cream. 6. Fold 1/3 of the whipped cream

into the pastry cream. Fold 1/3 of the whipped cream into the mascarpone. Reserve the last 1/3 of the whipped cream for the top. 18

7. Layering as follows:

Dip the ladyfingers into the tea and place on the bottom layer of your serving dish. Then, add a layer of mascarpone mixture. Then, add a layer of pastry cream mixture. Then, a dusting of ground cinnamon and ground ginger. Repeat these layers to fill your dish.

8. Top with a dollop of whipped

cream, and a sprinkle of cinnamon.

9. Let sit in the fridge a couple of hours for flavours to meld (but really it can be eaten straight away if you can’t wait).


4. Add onion, garlic and leeks

Chai flavours can also be used in snacks. We recently discovered a new creation from Duzu Dates – Chai Dates!

to the pot. Cook 5 minutes.

5. Add bay leaves and fennel. Cook another 3 minutes.

6. Add the beef stock to the pot and

scrape up any bits that have stuck to the bottom of the pot. Add the lamb back to the pot. Add the coconut milk.

7. Bring to a gentle boil then reduce heat and let simmer for 1 hour.

9. Check seasoning and adjust

Pitted organic Medjool dates are stuffed with a mix of sunflower, pumpkin, and sesame seeds blended with raw Alberta honey, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and kosher salt. Perfect with a cup of chai or a full-bodied red wine like cabernet sauvignon or syrah.

Note: can be kept in the fridge 3 days or frozen up to 3 months.

You’ll find them in Calgary and Edmonton at Italian Centre Shops and Blush Lane Markets, at Mountain Mercato in Canmore, or check out duzudates.com.

8. Add the squash, eggplant and chickpeas. Let simmer another 45 minutes.

to your liking. Cook another 5-10 minutes or until the lamb is tender.

Chai Lamb Coconut Curry Serves 4

1 Kg lamb, cubed 2 tsp sea salt 3 tsp black pepper 1½ Tbs ground cinnamon 1 Tbs ground Cardamom ½ cup flour Oil, for browning 1 small red onion, peeled, thinly sliced 4 cloves garlic, rough chop ½ leek, white parts only, thinly sliced 4 bay leaves 2 Tbs fennel seeds 3 cup (720 mL) beef stock 1 can (400 mL) coconut milk ½ squash, peeled, seeded and cubed ½ eggplant, cubed 1 can (400 g) chickpeas

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

Give the gift of ramen to warm their souls.

1. Season lamb with salt, pepper, cinnamon and cardamom. Add flour to lamb and coat.

2. Heat a medium pot to medium-high heat. Add enough oil to brown lamb.

3. Sear a layer of lamb cubes 5 minutes, turning once. Remove from pot and continue with remaining lamb cubes.

Gift cards available at Nomiya! nomiyarestaurant.com


The “Perfect” Arepa story by EVA COLMENERO photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Canada has poutine. Vietnam has pho. Ukraine has borscht. Venezuela? They have arepas.

A puck-shaped all-in-one gluten-free meal, arepas are eaten at any time and anywhere in Venezuela.

Harina PAN, the corn flour used to make them, can even be found at some grocery stores.

They are comparable to Mexican gorditas in that they can be stuffed with any savoury filling, though they require a different type of flour.

When asked how to make perfect arepas, Patricia Capuzzi and Marco Scagliati of Heaven Artisan GF and Xavier Rabasso of Arepa Boss, agreed that everyone has their own way of making them. Some add oil and some add sugar; some deep-fry them and some barbecue them. There isn’t a set way of doing it.

Arepa restaurants and food trucks are springing up to cater to a growing Venezuelan population, and to introduce them to curious Albertans.

20


The basic recipe for arepas is pre-cooked corn flour, water, and salt. But like many traditional recipes, there is not an exact ratio for how much of each ingredient to use. It’s all trial and error. According to arepa experts, when kneading the dough, if it cracks on the sides, then the mix needs more water. If it melts in the hand, then it needs more flour.

Everyone has their own way of making them At Heaven, Capuzzi and Scagliati make the dough a little watery. They let the dough rest for five minutes to absorb all the liquid, and then let the griddle evaporate the water. Conversely, at Arepa Boss, Rabasso recommends using cold water, and adding sugar to the mix – about half as much as salt – then mixing the ingredients very quickly, and kneading

the dough thoroughly to avoid flour pockets. The dough is made into balls, and flattened to make traditional palmsized puck shapes, then thrown on a grill to give a crunchy shell. After a few minutes on each side, when the crust has hardened, the arepas go into the oven for a few more minutes to finish cooking on the inside. When the arepas are cooked – some Venezuelan grandmas say they’re done when they sound hollow – they’re slit open to make a pocket, and filled with cheese, meat, or avocados – or all of the above. Whether your arepas end up being big or small, a little soft or crunchy, a little salty or bland, the perfect homemade arepa is achieved through trial and error – but even the errors taste pretty good!

Looking for a quick arepa fix? In Calgary check out: Heaven Artisan GF 1013 17th Avenue SW Arepa Boss food truck @ArepaBoss Arepas Ranch food truck @arepasranch

And in Edmonton: Ávila Arepa 10760 82nd Avenue NW El Fogón Latino 8026 118th Avenue NW

Eva Colmenero is a writer and editor based in Calgary. She would be a vegetarian, if bacon were a vegetable. Follow her on Twitter @evac88

21


CULINAIRE

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Looking for something different for the food and beverage lovers in your life? Our gift ideas are all Canadian this year! The Soup Sisters Family Cookbook

Since 2009, Soup Sisters have been dishing up homemade soup to women and children affected by family violence. This new compilation cookbook is the third in the bestselling Soup Sisters series, and focuses on bringing loved ones together. Discover a beloved family recipe passed down through generations, or try one of the simpler soups to get young soup makers into the kitchen. At all good bookstores, $24.95

The Violet Chocolate Company Advent Calendar Edmonton’s Rebecca Grant draws on inspiration from her experiences as a Red Seal Chef to create uniquely flavoured chocolates. Her second advent calendar includes bar bites and truffles with holiday season flavours, award-winning flavours, and current collection favourites. Available across Alberta, visit thevioletchocolatecompany.com for stockists. $65

Le Lab’s Artisanal Syrups and Bitters

Le Lab’s artisanal products are made in Québec with fresh or organic ingredients. Seven syrups and two bitters add character to dishes and cocktails, as well as meat and fish marinades. Orgeat is an almond and orange blossom syrup perfect for a MaiTai cocktail or in coffee and cakes. 250 mL $16.95. Mesquite BBQ bitters are great for brown spirits! $25.95 60 mL. labproduitsartisanaux.com for stockists 22

Mable’s Pantry Seasonal Jellies and Jams

Margie Hass’ love of gardening, fresh food, and quality meals for a growing family grew into a passion for preserving. Now she has a range of wine jellies and pepper jellies as well as popular seasonals for the holidays. Try Chive Blossom & Sage, Champagne & Roses, Spring Onion & Thyme, or a marvellous Spiced Cranberry Port Jelly. 110 mL and 190 mL jars range from $6.25-$9.75. Visit mablespantry.ca to find these natural and very tasty gems.


The Canadian Cowboy Cookbook: From the Ranch to the Backyard

This cookbook has 160 pages filled with all things cowboy, including archive photographs and historical information interspersed with authentic cowboy recipes as well as contemporary versions recreated for a modern audience. Delicious food steeped in a romantic nostalgia of a bygone age, from Company’s Coming Publishing Ltd. $19.99

Sam Knopp Ceramics

Sam Knopp is from Red Deer, and has a studio in the village of Irma. She researches and develops her own clay bodies and glazes, and puts them together in unexpected combinations to create functional ceramics that are tactile, playful and minimal. Available at Alberta Craft Council in Edmonton and Calgary, and at samknopp.com. Tumblers $38, Bowls $110-$120.

Origin Goods Handcrafted Knives

Located in Roseau River, southern Manitoba, Origin Goods is a small, family business producing custom knives from salvaged or foraged Canadian materials such as old files and high carbon steel old circular saw blades. These high quality, Japanese-style knives are light and sharp – and very desirable. Around $350 from originhandcrafted.com.

The Salt Cellar

The cocktail lover in your life will thank you for these cocktail rimmers from The Salt Cellar. Blended in small batches to ensure freshness, kits include Lime Margarita; Lime, Habanero, and Celery Seed for Caesars; smoky Salish; and versatile Above the Rim. Or spice up your dishes with a Pepper Patch kit of Turkish Maras, Hickory Smoke, White Malabar, and a Pink Peppercorn Blend. $23, thesaltcellar.ca

Fine Mesh Alberta Tea Towels

Goro + Gun’s Omakaze Sushi Experience

We love these cool YYC and YEG tea towels from Alberta’s Fine Mesh. They are hand screen-printed, using non-toxic water based inks, on a blend of 75% linen and 25% cotton for a lint-free dry before being sealed, so you can enjoy your tea towel for years. $24, visit fine-mesh.myshopify.com for stockists in Edmonton, Calgary and Banff.

Chef Tomo Mitsuno worked at a Michelin starred restaurant in Osaka for 7 years, and belongs to a culinary elite, certified in the safe preparation of deadly blowfish. Goro + Gun’s Omakaze is an exclusive and intimate experience with Chef Tomo, where he prepares sushi while explaining the history, flavour profiles, ingredient origins and special techniques. For 2-10 people, $50 per person or $65 with a flight of sake. goroandgun.ca 23


Soffritto Key Lime White Balsamic Vinegar

Of 50+ oils and 40+ vinegars available at Soffritto, our new favourite is their Key Lime White Balsamic. A few drops revolutionize a G&T, and it’s a game-changer in marinades, dressings, cocktails, pickles, and over berries and fruit. It also makes a wonderful glaze for poultry, seafood, vegetables, and meat. $6/60 mL, $13/200mL, $22/375mL. soffritto.ca

Birds & Bees Big Tease Raspberry 2011

The northernmost organic fruit orchard and winery/meadery in the world, Birds & Bees are located in Brosseau, Alberta, where they make a range of nine wines. Big Tease Raspberry is semi-sweet, and would be perfect with spicy Asian dishes and salads, as well rich chocolate and cream-based holiday desserts. CSPC +731365 $25

Centennial 10 Year Old Canadian Rye Whisky

From High River, Highwood Distillers bring us this true Canadian rye whisky made from soft winter wheat blended with rye instead of the traditional corn, and aged a minimum of 10 years in charred oak, used bourbon barrels for a smooth and mellow finish. Aromas of honey and spice on the nose follow through to flavours of apple and roasted grain. Cheers! CSPC + 387209 $27

Granville Island Osake Junmai Sparkling Sake

Ring in the celebrations with something different this year! North America’s first sparkling sake is made from 100% organically grown BC sake rice, and is light and crisp with aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, anise and pear. Not just for sushi, it’s delicious with crab, smoked salmon, and beet salads. CSPC +83568 500 mL $24 24

Field Stone Saskatoon Berry Dessert Wine

This lip-smacking fortified wine is made from fresh Sasaktoon berries just outside Strathmore. Intense and complex, the wine carries some weight making it perfect for sipping on it’s own or mixing in cocktails and spritzers. It’s also wonderful with strong cheeses. CSPC +719430 375 mL $21

Persephone Floral Berry Spirit

New this year, and made in small batches by Krang Spirits in Cochrane, Persephone is a floralberry spirit made from hibiscus, tea, rose petals, cranberries, currants, and elderberries. Try mixing it with your favourite gin! 20% ABV, CSPC +960026 375 mL $25

Sheringham Distillery Akvavit

Vancouver Island’s Sheringham Distillery source local agricultural products from B.C. and the Island for their spirits. Akvavit is a traditional Nordic spirit, and here it’s made from B.C. organic white wheat and malted barley. Expect notes of dill, caraway, anise, and citrus, along with a hint of the ocean from locally foraged winged kelp! CSPC + 793630 $60


780-705-4928 12539-102 AVENUE EDMONTON, AB

T HE COR N E R I S COM PL E T E

Cafe: 8-8 Restaurant: 4 - late (weekdays) 11 - late (weekends) 8222 Gateway Boulevard


Mustard: A Beloved Alberta Staple story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

If you’ve ever driven across the Canadian prairies in the summer, you know about the glorious fields of yellow that dot the landscape. Often, these fields are considered to be canola, but they are fields of mustard as well. You have to get out of your car and get up close and personal with the plant to really tell the difference, as the flowers are so similar. Canada is the world’s largest producer of mustard seed and Saskatchewan produces more than 70% of it. As the world’s most important exporter of mustard seed, that bottle of Dijon you pick up at the grocery store may have been made in France, but the seeds to make it more than likely came from Saskatchewan. There are varieties of mustard on the shelves; yellow mustard seed is the most common, and the most mellow with minimal heat – you probably have a bottle of it in your fridge. Brown mustard seed is zestier than yellow, and used in Dijon-style mustards. Oriental mustard has the most piquant flavour, and is

Homemade Grainy Mustard Making your own mustard is so easy and so satisfying; I pat myself on the back every time I tuck a jar of the stuff into the fridge. Add a little honey for sweetness, or use beer instead of wine. Customizable and creative, homemade mustard would make great gifts for the holidays. 26

smaller and darker than yellow mustard seed: that little seed really packs a punch! Dry mustard powder is finely ground mustard seed. There’s more to mustard than meets the eye. Yes, it’s fabulous on grilled sausages, smeared on sandwiches and packed in pickles, but mustard packs a flavourful punch as well as adding texture and visual appeal with very little effort. A teaspoon or two goes a long way, and I like to add it to salad dressings and marinades, as it’s a great emulsifier. Mustard and eggs go hand in hand, and I love adding a spoonful to Hollandaise sauce, devilled eggs, egg salad, even a little bit of Dijon on a fried egg sandwich. Potatoes are a perfect partner for mustard, whether they are roasted, mashed, stuffed or baked – and of 6 Tbs (90 mL) mustard seed (yellow, brown, oriental or a combination) ½ cup (125 mL) dry mustard powder ½ cup (125 mL) water (or white wine, beer, grape juice) 3 Tbs (45 mL) white wine or cider vinegar

1. Grind whole mustard seeds in a

mortar and pestle or coffee grinder for several seconds, until they are coarse.

course in potato salad mustard really perks up the flavour. I especially love mustard in a hearty meat sauce, which can be the base for lasagna or served on its own with spaghetti. It might sound a little crazy, but mustard is also wonderful in baked goods. I’ve mixed dry mustard powder into the melted butter of rice crispy squares, then stirred yellow mustard seeds in for good measure. I’ve stirred honey mustard into brownies, oatmeal cookies and chocolate cakes, with terrifically tasty results. Mustard seeds add great texture and flavour to cheese biscuits, focaccia and cornbread. These touches of mustard really add a warmth to the baked goods, without shouting MUSTARD IS IN HERE. It’s a subtle, yet welcome depth of flavour, which will surprise (and impress) even the biggest sceptics.

2. Place in a glass bowl with dry mustard powder and water, and stir well. Let stand for 10 minutes.

3. Stir in the wine or vinegar. If adding

honey, add 2 tsp (10 mL) now. Pour into a glass jar, tighten the lid and refrigerate for at least 24-48 hours before using. The waiting time allows the bitterness to dissipate. The mustard will keep for up to 6 months in the refrigerator.


Bumble Bee Brownie Cupcakes Makes 12 cupcakes

You wouldn’t think it, but mustard and chocolate are lovely companions, and they balance each other well in these cupcakes. Like Beyoncé and Jay Z, both are earthy, rich and intense on their own, but together, they are even better.

1. Preheat oven to 350° F. Line a muffin pan with papers.

2. In medium saucepan, combine sugar,

butter, buttermilk, mustard and cocoa. Stir over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Immediately remove from heat.

CASUALLY ELEGANT. UNIQUELY VINTAGE. DISTINCTLY CANADIAN.

3. Stir in eggs and vanilla. Mustard and chocolate are lovely companions

4. Combine the flour, baking soda and

salt in a small bowl and then stir into the chocolate mixture until combined.

5. Spoon the batter into muffin cups 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup unsalted butter ½ cup (125 mL) buttermilk 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey mustard ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 tsp (10 mL) pure vanilla extract 1¼ cups all-purpose flour ½ tsp baking soda ¼ tsp salt 1½ cups (375 mL) cream cheese, softened 3 Tbs (45 mL) buttermilk 3 Tbs (45 mL) honey mustard 3 Tbs (45 mL) liquid honey

until ¾ full and bake for 16-20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out with just a few crumbs clinging to it. Let cool on a wire rack before icing.

6. To make the icing: In a bowl, combine cream cheese, buttermilk, mustard and honey using an electric mixer and beat until creamy. Spread or pipe on top of cooled cupcakes. Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published earlier this year.

UPCOMING EVENING EVENTS

DINNER & A MOVIE NOV 7 | NOV 14 | NOV 21

Enjoy a three-course movie-themed meal at the Selkirk Grille followed by the film in Gasoline Alley Museum. For tickets, menus, and movie selections visit HeritagePark.ca

The Selkirk Grille is open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Reservations Recommended 403.268.8607 or HeritagePark.ca HeritageParkYYC


What’s The IBUs Of Your IPAs? by DAVID NUTTALL

“I don’t like their IPA, it’s not strong enough” — Overheard at a craft beer bar While one can’t be exactly sure, almost inevitably the above comment refers to either alcohol strength or most likely, the beer’s IBUs. As India Pale Ales (IPA) become more popular here on the prairies, the preconceptions inevitably follow. So does the public’s grasp of what an IPA is, let alone their interpretation of International Bitterness Units (IBU); easily the most misunderstood vital statistic of beer. When you dive into the pool of IPAs, you essentially swim with the hops. While they are not the only ingredient that determines a beer’s flavour, with IPAs it’s usually the major factor. So while beers proudly proclaim they are 25, 75, or 120 IBU, what does this all mean? It’s not an easy answer, and it involves many moving parts…

IBUs are easily the most misunderstood vital statistic of beer

First, we have to understand what an IBU is. Essentially it is a number that represents the bitterness of the beer as a measurement of the amount of hops used, the alpha acid (found in the 28

resin of the flower) of the hops, and a complicated process called utilization, which brings in many factors such as water pH, type of yeast, and most importantly, how long the hops are in the boil; where a few minutes is for aroma, to an hour or longer for bitterness, and in between that for flavour.

anise, citrus, salt, herbs and spices (gruit) and more can all contribute to a beer’s bitterness. Malted and unmalted rye are also used to create a spicy flavour profile. The most important characteristic you want in a beer is balance; the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

Plug all this into a formula and you get a single number, which is the IBU. For light lagers, that number is around 10, for IPAs it is usually 60 or more, and most of the rest of beer styles fall in between.

IPAs are best consumed fresh, since hops diminish over time

That makes it all sound cut and dried – higher IBUs equals more bitter beer – but it’s not that simple, hops can impart different flavours to a beer. They can make a beer taste herbal, citrusy, piney, grassy, floral, fruity, earthy, spicy and more. There are hundreds of different hop varieties, and a beer may contain multiple hop additions. A high gravity wort, or one with lots of dark malts, can counterbalance the hop flavour, making the perceived bitterness less evident. A 60 IBU IPA may taste much more bitter than a 75 IBU barley wine. Other ingredients in the beer may also affect its bitterness without changing the IBUs. Adding adjuncts such as fir tips,

The IBU has become a marketing tool breweries use to flaunt their IPAs’ muscle, even though most craft brewers hate it. Beer derives its flavour from all its ingredients; getting wrapped up in a single number that doesn’t even completely quantify the aspect it purports to represent, is foolhardy. The quest for higher IBU beers will not send you on a path to finding better beers. There are now many different kinds of IPAs. What was once a single category in the 1999 BJCP Guidelines has grown to nine categories in the current edition. Brewmasters have been employing new hop varieties and playing with recipes to create these whole new beer styles. Search them out, but don’t let numbers tell you how a beer is going to taste.


The only way is to drink them, and IPAs are best consumed fresh, since hops diminish over time. Try local versions, but let the IBU be your Sherpa up the mountain of beer, not the end point.

Fullers IPA

The original classic British IPA from a 172 year-old British brewery that uses Fuggles and Goldings hops. It tastes almost sweet compared to American IPAs, and its 47 IBUs exemplifies how different this style is from modern versions. $6 500 mL bottle CSPC 263962

Wild Rose IPA

The longest surviving local IPA, jokingly called Industrial Park Ale due to the location of the brewery when it was released early this century. It has changed hop additions and flavour profiles over the years. Now more American IPA than before, it still has a nice malt balance in its 69 IBUs. $17 6 pack cans/bottles CSPC 766763

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Village Senator

A Belgian White IPA with three hops, wheat, and Ardennes yeast. It has plenty of spicy and fruity character with an unimposing 50 IBUs. $9 650 mL bottle CSPC 795480

Canmore Brewing Railway Avenue Rye IPA

This West Coast IPA is a balanced 60 IBUs, but its flavour comes more from the use of malted rye and dry hopping. $15 4 pack cans, CSPC 792565

Two Sergeants Bangalore Torpedo IPA

The importance of balance is essential in 100+ IBU beers. This Double IPA from Ft. Saskatchewan starts quietly before the impact of the Northwest hops. $15 4 pack cans, CSPC 789953

Tool Shed Star Cheek

Another IPA from a Calgary brewery that keeps morphing over time. More subtle in its approach, it has a slight citrusy finish. $17 6 pack cans, CSPC 769990

N E W C O C K TA I L S Wines and spirits all nestled in a corporate gift basket make the perfect gift for a special occasion, client or someone special.

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Private Chefs: Bringing The Restaurant Experience Home

by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Imagine the luxury of a well-known and experienced chef coming into your home and preparing a multi-course meal for you and your friends, and then personally serving it right at your dining room table, explaining the inspiration behind each dish as you go along. Even the term “private chef” seems like something reserved for the rich and famous, so it may come as a surprise to learn that if you can afford dinner in a fine-dining restaurant, you can probably also afford a dinner party provided by a private chef. “The knowledge isn’t really out there,” says Sheridan McLaren, a private chef based out of Edmonton. “A lot of people don’t know that you can hire a chef and they’ll come out to cook for you and that it can be an all-inclusive thing that isn’t going to be ridiculously expensive.” A private chef is different than a traditional caterer in that rather than 30

Pierre Lamielle

showing up with chafing dishes full of food or 500 pieces of a signature canapé, the cooking happens onsite and the experience is usually smaller scale and more personal. Generally speaking, private chefs specialize in multi-course dinner parties in people’s homes, most likely for somewhere between two and 20 people. The services may vary (some offer wine pairings, others do not) but for the most part you sit back and are

cooked for by a restaurant-quality chef for a similar price that you’d get in a fine-dining restaurant (pricing tends to average about $100 per person). Why do this? There are a few reasons. Most private chefs will bring their own dishes and pack them away (or load the dishwasher if you want to use your own dishes), so it literally is as little work as going to a restaurant, but with some additional perks. Since you’re in your own home, the evening can go on


as long as you like and you don’t have to worry about driving after imbibing in a few glasses of wine; friends who follow suit can stay over if need be.

Sheridan McLaren

More importantly, you get the interaction with the chef, which for true food enthusiasts, can be as interesting as the food itself. Some chefs even offer home cooking classes, either as part of a home dinner party or as a dedicated afternoon event.

“We have a very detailed website and make sure everything is well spelled out so people know what to expect and how it works,” McLaren says. “But a lot of our business is through word of mouth.”

Most private chefs will bring their own dishes and pack them away “It’s most likely that the chef will be bringing everything in and taking everything out, from ingredients to equipment to plates,” says Pierre Lamielle, a Calgary-based chef who occasionally hires himself as a private chef, depending on what else he has on the go. “At the very least your kitchen is reset for you.” The benefits aren’t just for the clients though — there are also plenty of reasons why a chef would choose to go the private route rather than taking a job in a restaurant. Private chefs generally have more room to play with seasonal ingredients and go a little further when

Customers looking to hire a private chef can use Google to see what’s available in their area, but McLaren says that good old word of mouth is sometimes the best way to go if you want to be sure to find a chef that complements your personality and culinary sensibilities.

it comes to creative plating and cooking techniques. If customers are willing to put their trust in the chef, they may end up with an extraordinary once-in-alifetime kind of meal. “You tend to be a lot more creative and cook with the seasons,” Lamielle says. “You’re innovating and creating new dishes constantly. It’s a great creative outlet. As long as you’re working with people who are open to being cooked for seasonally, it can work out better for both the chef and the client.” There are many private chefs working across the province — some with larger operations like McLaren’s, others doing less frequent gigs like Lamielle.

Lamielle agrees that word of mouth is important, since the individual chef is such an important part of the process and no one wants to feel uncomfortable in their own home. “All of my best jobs have been from word of mouth, either people I’d cooked for before or had friends that I’d cooked for,” he says. “They knew I was the right niche and the right personality for the kinds of events that were too small for a catering company. Plus they knew I could put a lot of heart and passion into a small event.” For more information on Chef Sheridan McLaren’s private chef services, visit chefsheridan.com. Chef Pierre Lamielle can be contacted at pierrelamielle.com. Elizabeth Chorney-Booth has been writing about music, food, and just about everything else her entire adult life. She is a published cookbook author and part of the new Best of Bridge team.

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Warming Cocktails For Cool Nights by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

When evenings start to cool, cool people reach for warming spices… And there’s very definitely a chill in the air now, so we asked two Alberta mixologists to reach into their spice drawers and create warming cocktails for us to make at home.

Corey Wilfert

Rostizado, Edmonton “As we head into the colder temperatures, I want to spice things up with a creation called Ancho Tejuino,” says Rostizado’s bar manager, Corey Wilfert. “I decided to use a small batch añejo that plays well with the other ingredients. The añejo has a long, spicy, caramel, cooked agave, and light oak finish.”

and pleasantly sweet, followed by moderate heat, spice notes with hints of cinnamon, tamarind, and citrus.”

Ancho Tejuino

1 oz Ancho Reyes 1 oz Roca Patrón Añejo Tequila ¾ oz fresh squeezed lemon juice ¾ oz cinnamon spiced syrup (recipe below) 5 pieces flambéed caramelized pineapple (flambéed in Ancho Reyes)

Ancho Reyes is based on an old recipe from Puebla, in Mexico, known for dried and smoked ancho chilis. When the pineapple is flambéed with the liqueur, it caramelizes and brings subtle spices and sweet notes.

In a shaker tin muddle caramelized pineapple, then add all the liquid ingredients and shake with ice. Strain and serve over ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with pineapple and grated cinnamon.

“This cocktail is refreshing and perfectly suited for the holiday season”, says Wilfert. “It’s well balanced,

2 cups (480mL) water 1 cup granulated sugar Mexican cinnamon sticks Cloves Star anise

Cinnamon Spiced Syrup

Add all the ingredients to a pot and bring to a boil. Let simmer for 10 minutes. Fully chill, and then refrigerate. Syrup will last for 6 weeks in the fridge.

32


Kenton Hrynyk

Ricardo’s Hideaway, Calgary “Lights Out!” is one of my favourite signature drinks here at Ricardo’s,” says mixologist Kenton Hrynyk. Averna, from Sicily, is a popular amaro (Italian for “bitter”), a mixture of spirit, sweetener, and a proprietary blend of herbs and spices. The recipe is a secret but we do know that pomegranate and the essential oils of bitter lemons are included.

cinnamon and cardamom notes, creating a rich dark sipper for crisp Fall nights,” Hrynyk says. “It is the ultimate winter warmer and night cap.”

Lights Out!

¾ oz Averna Amaro ¾ oz Angostura 7 Year Old Rum ¾ oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon Orange peel, flamed

Tastes good, feels good We artfully combine certified sustainable couverture chocolate and simple ingredients into handcrafted delicious and satisfying right-sized confections.

Add all ingredients to a mixing glass with ice, then stir and strain over a large ice cube. Garnish with flamed orange peel.

“Averna bridges the gap between the rum and the bourbon with allspice, Convenient and accessible High quality couverture chocolate for baking or entertaining is available in our retail stores, on our website, or in the baking aisle at Safeway and Sobeys in Western Canada.


Making The Case: Variety Is The Spice Of Life by TOM FIRTH

Normally, our November issue is all about spice, and when fall arrived in early September, my thoughts were cast to warming, spicier red wines rather than the crisp white wines I’d been enjoying all summer.

While the wines below could be enjoyed any time of year, it seemed like now is the perfect time to share them. I went out on a limb and focused on one of my favourite red grapes, cabernet franc, that is finding a wonderful niche in the Okanagan Valley, but also a few other examples from Italy and France – I sincerely hope you like them. To round out my other selections are syrahs, foch, malbec, monastrell and some blends. Try them with the richer dishes of winter, braised or roasted meats, barbecue for the brave, or even heartier or decadent pastas. Or my favourite – by the fire.

Culmina Estates 2013 Hypothesis Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley British Columbia A hearty blend (merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon), the Hypothesis is remarkably spicy and floral – a treat for the sniffer. On the palate are black fruits, earth, and a strong core of acids and tannins. I’d recommend keeping in the cellar for 2-5 more years or more. $55 CSPC +767821

Francis Coppola Diamond Collection 2015 Black Label Claret, California A Bordeaux-style blend from California (based around cabernet sauvignon), yet with a little of that modern, “new world” touch, look for currant and raisin fruits with tar and tobacco on the nose. Flavour profile is all about the purity of fruits and a nice, mid-length finish with almostsupple tannins. Smoked meats would be a good choice here. $28 CSPC +521021

Juan Gil 2014 Silver Label Monastrell Jumilla, Spain Cranberries, strawberries, and yes a little cherry show here, with talc and slate mineral aromas, and a little charred wood too. Flavours are marked by moderate tannins, well offset by plump fruits and a long dry finish. Pretty delicious, and would match well with pork chops or if the bird is the word, try with a little duck confit. $24 CSPC +724837 34


Tinhorn Creek 2015 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Chateau Yvonne 2015 “L’Ile Quatre Sous” Saumur Champigny, France

Catena 2015 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina

Rife with peppery spices, lavender, oak, and cherry cola on the nose, Tinhorn’s 2015 cab franc seems to be a little rounder and richer than previous years. With a spicy little kick across the mid palate, I’m thinking about dinner while writing this, and burgers, peppered steaks, or pork loin are on my mind. $21 CSPC +530717

A French cabernet franc (life is good), with earthy tones leading the way, damp cellar, old wood, cranberries and turned soil on the nose, while on the palate, subtle and understated, it’s wonderfully, magically delicious with a final, bright, cherry tone on the very finish. Pair with braised meats, or on it’s own. $31 CSPC +791399

The classic malbec to many Albertans, look for cocoa and chocolate covered coffee beans on the nose with just a gentle touch of dried herbs. Big and fullbodied on the palate, the oak softens the tannins somewhat letting chocolate, currants, and blackberry lead the way. Pair with a steak if possible, or just sit back and relax. $15-17 CSPC +478727

Jim Barry 2015 The Barry Bros. Clare Valley, Australia

Sartori di Verona 2013 L’Appassione Rosso Delle Venezie, Veneto, Italy

Burrowing Owl 2014 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A shiraz-cabernet sauvignon blend, that is a little bit of a fruit-bomb too. Juicy, fruity aromas with blackberry jelly, spice box, and a bit of mocha on the nose. Flavours are generous on the palate with enough tannin to temper the fruits. Enjoyable and would be a nice match to some game meats or roasted fowl. $25-27 CSPC +859579

A blend of corvina, rondinella, corvinone and a little merlot, there are some beautiful aromatics going on in this glass. Black fruits, potpourri, vanilla bean, and a little wildness brings one back again and again for another sniff. Flavours are quite consistent on the palate with a deep bouquet. Interesting and tasty, match with herb de Provence flavours. $15-18 CSPC +786251

A classic producer of this grape, Burrowing Owl’s 2014 is a big, beautiful monster. Dense black fruits with a streak of spice throughout, and finishing with an almost soft, floral cocoa character. Tannins are big and bold, and I would gladly take this to a steak dinner, or match with a hearty lasagna. You could cellar it 3-5 years or so, but I’m drinking it now. $37 CSPC +1076601

Vignamaggio 2010 Cabernet Franc Tuscany, Italy

Dirty Laundry 2015 Kay-Syrah Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Laughing Stock 2015 Syrah Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A really well made Italian cabernet franc rife with dried, peppered strawberries on the nose with almost crunchy tannins on the palate. Not to worry, there are plenty of fruit flavours, and a fine, floral component to the wine as well. Calling out for earthy, meaty dishes perhaps with some mushrooms… $67 CSPC +783410

Syrah continues to improve in the Okanagan and Dirty Laundry (known for those evocative labels) has made a fine one. A little more French in style with deep perfume aromas, dried herb, black currants and a touch of spice. Earth and spice dominate the palate, with a sweet woodiness on the finish. Steak au poivre, or pork loin would be a fit here. $27-28 CSPC +231506

A favourite example of syrah in the valley, Laughing Stock combines dried herb and floral aromas with smoked meat, dill, and black fruit. Fairly rich across the palate, there is plenty of development from start to finish, with a leaner, spicier finish. Might need 2-3 years to settle down a little, but easy to enjoy now. $35 CSPC +751845 35


Eat, Drink And Be Merry!

Where To Get Out And Have Fun In November by SILVIA PIKAL

Once temperatures start to drop, it can be tough to get out and enjoy yourself. But there are some great places that offer an escape from the cold with drinks, food, and fun activities all under one roof. For the board game lover When Kellie Ho and Randy Wong graduated from architecture school in 2008 they had a hard time finding work in their field, so they decided to move to South Korea to teach English, where they discovered board game cafés. “We had always been gamers ourselves, and we thought this was such a great concept to bring back home,” Ho says. After moving back to Canada, they did eventually find jobs in architecture, but the idea of a board game café always Hexagon Board Game Cafe

Distilled Beauty Bar and Social House

stayed in the back of their minds. In 2014, they made the leap and opened the first Hexagon Board Game Cafe in Edmonton; a Calgary location followed in 2016. Customers can indulge in local brews and pastries while playing in a social setting. Ho says the staff are personal game shoppers, ready to find the perfect board game for both seasoned gamers and beginners. “People come to our café knowing they’re going to have a good time,” she says. “They can have an espresso, or beer, or glass of wine, and play one of their favourite games.” 10123 Whyte Avenue, Edmonton 1140 Kensington Road NW, Calgary thehexcafe.com

For the spa enthusiast Lisa Maric always dreamed of opening a coffee shop. After retiring from working in the oil and gas industry, her idea blossomed into Distilled Beauty Bar and Social House, a combination of a bar, café and spa. The space opened in Calgary’s Marda Loop last fall. When you walk into the space, you’re greeted with a lounge area where you 36

can drink coffee, snack on sweets, and order from a wine and cocktail menu, along with a rotating tapas menu with vegan and gluten-free options. Continue walking and you’ll reach a row of comfy pedicure chairs across from a nail bar, where you can sip on a cocktail or London Fog while getting pampered. A salon with privacy is at the back. “We called it a social house and people didn’t know what it was; I wasn’t even sure myself,” Maric says. “I thought, if people are comfortable enough, they’ll relax. That’s what you end up seeing. We have ladies who’ve napped on the chairs while getting a pedicure. The blanket comes out. That makes me feel good.” Maric says the space is designed to be gender neutral and welcoming to everyone. The inspiration was to create a spa where you could see friends, have lunch, and have a glass of wine all in one. “It’s become quite a meeting place. We get the whole gamut. I love that men come in and enjoy a lot of the services. Sometimes a firetruck pulls up and firemen come in and have their morning coffee and clean me out of food.” 2408 – 34 Avenue SW, Calgary distilledbeautybar.com


Photo by Andy Stanislav

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you’re feeling thirsty, some of the offerings include six draught wines and more than 24 draught beers. 1725 – 99 Street NW, South Edmonton 8882 - 170 Street NW West Edmonton Mall 1180 - 901 64 Avenue NE, Calgary therecroom.com

For the painter

The Rec Room

For the arcade fan The Rec Room has two locations in Edmonton and has just opened in Calgary. The entertainment and dining complex (owned by Cineplex Entertainment), offers two levels of restaurants, bars, virtual reality, arcade games, and live entertainment, meaning you won’t have to travel far to eat, drink, and play games. Try something new, like axe throwing, at the South Edmonton location, or a route on the augmented climbing wall at West Edmonton Mall. The food is Canadian-inspired, and ranges from poutine with elevated offerings of lobster or porchetta to wood-fired pizzas and doughnuts. If

Vin Gogh Paint and Sip in Calgary provides a paint and wine party atmosphere where customers receive all the equipment they need to complete their very own painting, while enjoying a glass of wine (or beer, cider, coffee or tea).

Vin Gogh Paint and Sip

After registering online, Stiles invites customers to come into the studio any time after doors open at 5:30 pm, relax, and have some items from the menu before painting starts.

With step-by-step guidance from an artist, the events are beginnerfriendly, and allow customers to finish a painting in two hours. Owner Shea Stiles bought the business last year after working for Vin Gogh as an artist since 2014. “I fell in love with it when I started working there because people were so happy,” Stiles says. “I love that they can come in, unwind, and have a nice time. Some people haven’t painted for years, and they leave with a smile on their face. Creativity is like yoga for your brain. You can forget about all your daily troubles.”

The menu features a variety of nibbles made in-house, from chicken skewers to a three-dip platter with pita chips and veggies. Stiles says the flatbreads are always popular, with toppings like prosciutto and basil pesto or beets and goat cheese. 7004 MacLeod Trail SE, Calgary vingogh.ca Silvia Pikal is a freelance writer and editor. She has the uncanny ability to sense when a chocolate bar enters a room.

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November Spirits by TOM FIRTH with LINDA GARSON

These are heady days; craft producers of wine, beer, and spirits are coming out of the woodwork in Alberta, and competition is fierce. Thankfully, most of the over 90 licensed producers are focused on quality and innovation, meaning that while many of them are new to us there are plenty worthy of choosing. While some of these producers are getting distribution through Alberta liquor stores, many are still getting their sea legs and not quite ready for that headache. We would highly recommend visiting or supporting these distilleries in your travels, though recent changes from the Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission allow any craft producer to sell their products at approved farmer’s markets.

We would highly recommend visiting or supporting these distilleries in your travels

classic gin flavours we expect. Try in a Caesar for sure! $47 CSPC +789678

Krang Spirits Krang Krupnik, Cochrane

A honey liqueur with a vodka base seasoned with various spices, this is as far as I know, the only one being made in Canada. Sweeter, with about 20 percent alcohol, it has all the richness and flavour of high quality honey, with a little kick. Quite tasty, drink chilled and neat or in honey-friendly cocktails. $27 CSPC +960017

Back 40 Distillery Ol’ Apple Betty, Camrose

Prices listed are the distillery prices when possible, but many are available at liquor stores around the province.

What smells just like a freshly baked apple pie or apple crumble? This. Pressed apples, cinnamon, brown sugar… just brings the soul some peace. Remarkably consistent flavours on the palate, it’s warming and comforting for sure. Can be heated or served chilled, maybe try some when poaching apples, making a pie, or a little nip in your coffee or tea. $41 CSPC +790534

RAW Distillery Peppercorn Gin Canmore

Park Distillery Espresso Vodka Banff

One quick reminder that there are no rules that say you can’t get in touch with them and ask about shipping within Alberta…

Gin can be a funny beast, all about the botanicals typically, this one from RAW utilizes Tellicherry peppercorns from India bringing some heat that builds on the palate while also preserving the 40

Park Distillery is kicking *ss with a number of well-regarded offerings. Their espresso vodka is made with an infusion from the Banff Roasting Company (no synthetic flavours here), and strikes the

fine balance of whether coffee or vodka should be the dominant flavour. Clean vodka with the bitterness and earthy flavours of coffee, a mixing magician this is. $50 CSPC +778454

Rundle Roast

Courtesy Park Distillery 1.5 oz espresso vodka ½ oz chocovine ½ oz honey ½ oz condensed milk

Shake with ice and strain into coupe glass


Hansen Distillery Cherry Rye Spirit, Edmonton

Made with a combination of BC sour cherries and “bold” ones, this rye-based (obviously), cherry flavoured spirit, perfectly encapsulates the nose of fresh cherries and the spicy heat of rye. Off–dry just a touch with clean cherry infused flavours, this would bring the fire to any cocktail that might otherwise need a maraschino garnish. $33 at the distillery

Last Best White Label Jelly Gin, Calgary

Eau Claire Distillery Parlour Gin

Eau Claire’s second release, London-dry style Parlour Gin is made from local barley. Using mostly traditional gin botanicals, you’ll be greeted by scents of sweet citrus and forest, but watch for Saskatoon berries and mint in this silky smooth-textured spirit. Ideal for cocktails, but happily sipped on its own. $49 CSPC +789514

Red Cup Distilling Wheat Shine Vegreville

Somewhat unusual, this is an unaged spirit made with an entirely wheat-based mashbill and an eye for moonshine’s tradition. Quite clean on the nose with only subtle spices, tropical citrus and rising dough characters abound. Hot (50 percent ABV) in the mouth with white pepper and a clean finish. Cut with a little water or add to drinks where you only need a little fire rather than adding a lot of flavour. $30 CSPC +778218

Wild Life Distillery Vodka Canmore

Using Alberta-sourced grains in the mash, on the nose come fresh banana aromas with vanilla and a little heat. Quite fine in the mouth with a silky texture and a palate that builds up to a long and expressive finish. A fine quality vodka to keep on hand for when the need arises. $49 CSPC +787593

How cool is this – a gin collaboration between Last Best’s Bryce Parsons and Cam Dobranski of Calgary’s Brasserie Kensington. Using 100 percent Alberta malted barley, Jelly Gin is unique, with a complex bouquet of peppermint, jalapeno, coriander, and citrus, that follow right through to the palate – it really is Jalapeno Mint Jelly, and would make a great G & T. $54 CSPC +785516

Strathcona Spirits Badland Seaberry Gin, Edmonton

This very small batch gin has another intriguing nose that I defy you to guess blind. There’s red fruit and sweet almonds, yet something deeper and earthy too. Could it be goji berry? Wrong. We don’t know the 10 locally foraged botanicals, but one is the tangy Seaberry that grows in Edmonton, also known as the vitamin-rich sea buckthorn. A delicious martini gin. $49 CSPC +787815

Rig Hand Double Double Coffee Cream, Nisku

How do you take your coffee? Double cream and double sugar? Then you’ll be right at home with this smooth and creamy, rum-based coffee liqueur. With flavours of chocolate and caramel, vanilla and hazelnut, you’ll be reaching out for a Boston cream donut or maybe a crème brulee, or maybe you’ll adding it to your cuppa - or just savouring every sip alone. $41 CSPC +778370


fruit wineries and meaderies. I’ve been really lucky; it’s lots of hard work but I’ve been able to build my business where I’ve seen holes in the market and filling them in.” So what bottle does Burgess have tucked away? “When I was doing my diploma, I didn’t really know what sherry was. Gonzalez Byass had a trip to Spain for diploma students, and I spent three days in the region,” she says. “Sherry is hard to understand, people think it’s a sweet dessert drink but only a tiny percentage is sweet. As soon as you get there, you realise that there’s this magical, unique drink that is one of the best values in the entire wine world, that nobody drinks!”

Open That Bottle

story by LINDA GARSON photography by JASON DZIVER

“One of the most important things to me is to be able to offer more educational opportunities, because if the trade is able to learn more, they can better share their knowledge with consumers,” says wine consultant, Margaux Burgess. Originally from Nova Scotia, Burgess moved to Edmonton in 1997 to study economics at university, while working in hotels and restaurants to support herself. It was an extended program split by a year in Australia, another in the U.K., and three years at Banff Springs hotel.

With contacts made through years of working in hotels, Burgess started wine marketing, PR, and education. “Whatever you can do when you’re cobbling together a new business, and trying to get a consulting agency off the ground,” she laughs.

After graduating, Burgess continued with Fairmont; she achieved her International Sommelier Guild diploma and wanted to start the WSET program, but it wasn’t available in Edmonton.

But she always planned to come back to Edmonton, so when she finished her diploma she started working on restaurant wine programs and with the Alberta Liquor Store Association to develop educational programs.

“So I moved to Vancouver to do the WSET diploma, and Fairmont was kind enough to transfer me to the Pacific Rim,” she says. She also worked in a coffee shop/winebar: “It wasn’t the best fit, but that worked out well as it inspired me to start my own business.”

“I do some writing, and some judging at the Alberta Beverage Awards. I did the mead judging certification, I have the WSET Level I in sake, and I’m a certified sherry educator,” she says. “We also work with Alberta producers quite a bit to educate stores on breweries, distilleries,

42

Byass produces Tio Pepe, one of the most well-known fino sherries. The solera has 22,000 casks filled with wine, and as they age they move to an amontillado solera, which has thousands more casks. From these around 10 barrels are chosen, and from there they bottle four – a fouryear old, six-year old, eight-year old, and a 47-year old amontillado. “The Tres Palmas is the oldest fino sherry, and I think it represents the region better than any other wine,” Burgess adds. “I went back the next year, and the next year, and then I did the sherry educator (program) in 2015. Last year I did the sherry master program, so we learned a lot more about the selection of the Palmas.” And when might she open the bottle? “I don’t think it will be a special occasion, I think it will just sit on the shelf and taunt me until I give in and open it,” laughs Burgess. “I’ll probably open it before I prepare for my next trip to Spain, just to get me in the mood. I’ll be going to Spain in November to do the Rioja educator program, and I’m going to spend a couple of days in Jerez, so I think I’ll get some Iberico and some Manchego from the Italian Centre, and have some Tres Palmas fino!”


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Culinaire #6:6 (November 2017)  
Culinaire #6:6 (November 2017)  

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