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ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 6 NO.4 :: SEPTEMBER 2017

NEVER GO THIRSTY! NG THE M I K

T OS

MA

ALBERTA’S BEST WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS LISTS!

OF YOUR TOMATO HARVEST!

Craft Cider’s Renaissance | Pretzelfest | Organic Okanagan


Food so Fresh, it will make you Blush! BC Organic Apple Harvest is on! Fresh updates & recipes: www.blushlane.com

Blush Lane Organic Orchard 3105 Hwy 3, Keremeos, BC

Edmonton, Whyte Ave

Roots on Whyte Community Bldg. 8135-102nd St. NW 780-988-5655 SUN- FRI 9-9, SAT 8-9

Blush Lane Organic Produce at the Calgary Farmers’ Market

510 – 77 Ave. SE (near Blackfoot & Heritage) 403-668-0503

THURS- SUN 9-5

Calgary, Aspen Woods #3000-10 Aspen Stone Blvd SW 403-210-1247 OPEN DAILY 9-9

Calgary, Bridgeland

617 Meredith Rd. NE 587-393-4041 FREE 45 MIN. UNDERGROUND PARKING

OPEN DAILY 9-9

Calgary, Marda Loop

2044 33 Ave SW 587-535-6713 FREE 1 HR UNDERGROUND PARKING

OPEN DAILY 9-9


12 26 22 14

50 VOLUME 6 / ISSUE #4 SEPTEMBER 2017

Features 14

5 Local Grocers Share Their Tips With an ever-increasing interest in supporting local producers, the connection between consumers and grocers benefits all by Mallory Frayn

26

11

Finding a Home for Your Kitchen Scraps Calgary rolls out green carts by Silvia Pikal

44 Making The Case …for American Wine by Tom Firth

Departments

46 September Spirits For warm days and long, cool evenings by Tom Firth with Linda Garson

8 Off The Menu – 4th Spot’s Moderno Bruschetta

21

Preserving the Harvest… with savoury and sweet jams and jellies by Renee Kohlman

24 Back To School …cocktails! by Linda Garson

36 Organic Okanagan by 2020 – can it happen? by Linda Garson

40 Celebrate Canada 150 Beers brewed specifically for the occasion by David Nuttall

Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists Awards Never go thirsty! We’re highlighting the best drinks lists in Alberta by Tom Firth and Linda Garson, with Terry Andryo, Stephanie Arsenault, and Patricia Koyich

48 Craft Cider - a renaissance in the making by Margaux Burgess

38 Pretzelfest Celebrating a staple of German cuisine for Oktoberfest – the pretzel – and four Alberta locations to find them made-from-scratch by Silvia Pikal

6

Salutes and Shout Outs

10

Book Review

12

Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

50 Open That Bottle Paul Rogalski, chef and co-owner of Rouge Restaurant by Linda Garson

On the Cover: Many thanks to Paul de Jonge of Lethbridge’s Broxburn Farms for the deliciously fresh tomatoes, and to our photographer, Ingrid Kuenzel, for the fun and bright imagery.

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Letter From The Editor The downside, sadly, are the wildfires next door. Were you waking up chewing smoke? I certainly was, let’s hope we’re over the worst. I’m also hoping that it hasn’t affected the Okanagan’s grapes, as usually a hot, dry year makes for a great grape year, and we welcome more B.C. wine! Talking of B.C. wine, do check out my Organic Okanagan article on page 36. We’re happy to spread the word on this far-reaching initiative, and wish great success to our neighbours in the transition. Hello again! I hope you’ve had a good summer. We’ve certainly had the weather; it’s been quite the scorcher! The good news is that everyone’s veggie patches are overflowing, and our market stalls are heaving with freshly picked local produce.

September’s issue is one of my favourites as there’s always so much to tell you about at harvest time. We’ve sought advice from the people who know – our local grocers – and we can learn a lot from them. We’re also learning about our new green carts in Calgary, and what to put in them after we’ve enjoyed our meals –

you’re way ahead of us on that front, Edmonton, but we’re catching up! Our big news this issue is the results of our inaugural Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists Awards! To us, a restaurant’s wine, beer or spirits list is a very important part of dining out, but these rarely get the attention they deserve; we always talk about food menus but not what’s on offer to drink with your meal. We chose to celebrate the best drinks lists in Alberta by launching a free-to-enter awards competition this spring, and judging took place at the end of July in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Calgary’s East Village (boy, were we well looked after there!). It was eye opening to see the quality of lists offered in our province, and we hope you enjoy discovering the winners. Cheers! Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Imprese Familiari (im-PRAY-zeh FAH-mill-YAR-ee)

That means we support family businesses, locally and across Canada, who make traditional products as good as those from the old country

That’s over 300 classic delicacies made right here on our doorstep. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

CALGARY Willow Park

italiancentre.ca


ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Calgary Sales Director: Greg Mitchell 587-224-3270 greg@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Creative Director: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Silvia Pikal silvia@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca

CASUALLY ELEGANT. UNIQUELY VINTAGE. DISTINCTLY CANADIAN.

Our Contributors < Renée Kohlman

Renée Kohlman is a pastry chef, food writer, and recipe developer living in Saskatoon. With 20 years of professional cooking experience, she counts her lucky stars every day that she has turned her passion for food into a career she loves. Her popular food blog, Sweetsugarbean, has provided her with many exciting opportunities, including her regular food columns in the Saskatoon StarPhoenix and other publications. Her first cookbook All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions) was published in April 2017.

Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Margaux Burgess Mallory Frayn Dong Kim Renée Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel David Nuttall Leilani Olynik Silvia Pikal Phil Wilson

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

< Margaux Burgess

Margaux has worked in the hospitality industry for over 10 years. As founder of Edmonton based Lingua Vina Sommelier Services, she is able to work with producers and hospitality professionals to fuel her passion for knowledge and increase the opportunities for education and events in Alberta. Margaux holds the WSET Diploma, is a Certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers and a Certified Sherry Educator from the Consejo Regulador de la D.O. Jerez-Xeres-Sherry.

< Leilani Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Olynik

A full-on food geek, Leilani is happiest when exploring and experimenting in the kitchen. She has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. As the Marketing Coordinator for the Calgary Farmers’ Market, she shares her passion for local food by showcasing the market as a vibrant and inspiring place to build relationships with your farmer and reconnect with your food. Wife. Mother. Bourbon enthusiast. And proud Calgarian.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

UPCOMING EVENING EVENTS

GARDEN TOUR AND DINNER FIELD TO FORK CULINARY SERIES Join us Thursday, September 14 for an exclusive tour of Heritage Park’s gardens capped off with a four-course dinner in the Selkirk Gallery room, featuring a bountiful harvest fresh from Heritage Park’s own gardens. Includes wine pairings. Tickets $89.95 +GST / person at HeritagePark.ca

DINNER & A MOVIE OCT 17 | OCT 24 | NOV 7 | NOV 14 | NOV 21 Enjoy a three-course movie-themed meal at the Selkirk Grille followed by the film in Gasoline Alley Museum. Tickets, menu, and movie selections can be found at HeritagePark.ca Reservations 403.268.8607 or HeritagePark.ca HeritageParkYYC


Salutes... Congrats to SAIT, who have received their largest gift to date – $2 million from The Joyce Family Foundation to help at-risk youth feed their passion for cooking. Half goes to the Summer Cooks Apprentice program, and half will be used for financial hardship bursaries to any program for incoming students. And more SAIT congrats to instructor Michael Allemeier, who is only the third chef in Canada to

And to Ian Treuer, Head Cheesemaker at Winding Road Artisan Cheese of Smoky Lake, Alberta, whose RDB cheese was awarded second place at the American Cheese Society Competition in the “Soft-Ripened Washed Rind, High Moisture over 42%, All Milks” category.

earn the Master Chef certification from the Canadian Culinary Institute!

Winding Road cheeses are made with certified organic milk and a plant based enzyme derived from the cardoon thistle, and we can vouch for RDB – this super creamy soft cheese is a stunner!

and Shout Outs... The Edmonton culinary scene is booming, with no shortage of great new eateries. Calgary’s always popular RE:GRUB has opened here on 104 Street NW, serving up their hand-crafted burgers as well as their crazy good shakes, and experimental versions of both. Worried about wait times? Check their Queue Cams before you leave your house at regrub.ca/queue-cam. And Edmonton’s Old Strathcona has a new bakery. The tiny FanFan Patisserie on 80 Avenue, is only 250 square feet and has no seating inside, just three tables for two outside, but plenty of goodies to take away. French pastry chef Franck Bouilhol makes croissants and pain au chocolate daily, as well as scones, Danishes, tarts, and cakes. There’s homemade sorbetto and gelato too! Those living and working downtown Edmonton, or visiting the arena, are welcoming a new addition. Bottega 104 (no relation to Bodegas on 103 Street), is the Crudo family of Café Amore’s second restaurant on 104 Street (their Black Pearl is across the street), and is offering pizza choices, pastas, salads and appies. 6

cocktail menu continues the theme; sip American Diplomacy, with Buffalo Trace bourbon, sweet and dry sherry, amaro, sesame, and condensed milk. Fergus Bone’s wine list has just won gold in our Finest Drinks Lists awards too! Open from 4:30pm Weds-Sat.

Shelter

In Calgary, new openings are unabated too! On 1st Street SW, where Taste was, the black flag flies for Shelter, an intimate cocktail and wine bar. This little 42-seat lounge is a hideaway – swanky yet casual, and with high-end hotel bar décor with Eastern Europe grunge. It’s a strong statement; 21 gas masks hang behind the bar, and the light fixture features over 5,000 hand-strung bulbs. The menu is defined by the concept, and Chef Marco is making everything from scratch. Try vault mushrooms and quail egg on toast, 48 hour beet-cured salmon with lemon ricotta and rice wine pearls, or go for house-made spam sliders with cola mustard. Maya Bartha’s

The team behind Native Tongues has breathed new life into in the ex- Bar C space on 17th Avenue SW with Calcutta Cricket Club. Cool and casual, this pink and turquoise, small plates restaurant has a short menu of modern dishes from NE India, and is all about flavour. Calcutta Cricket Club


A tandoor oven allows executive chef Rene Bhullar to create standout dishes such as marinated, roasted zucchini, and the popular lamb and chicken Kati rolls. As there’s a large Chinese population in Calcutta, Hakka dishes are on the menu too. We can’t stop eating the sweet and sticky, salty, and intensely flavoured chili chicken! Check out Stephen Phipps’ tasty gin-centric cocktails, and while it’s still warm, take in the beautiful hidden patio. Open from 4pm, no reservations.

meeting and events seasonal menus executive floor options hotelblackfoot.com

Suzette Bistro

From Brittany to Britannia! Suzette Bistro, home of authentic galettes and crepes in Calgary’s Mission district, has opened a second location in Britannia Plaza, and it’s perfect for this area. Bright and white, this micro brasserie has blue accents of the seaside; the music is just a whisper in the background, as in France. Come for executive chef/partner, Dominique Moussu (latterly of L’Epicerie and Cassis Bistro), and chef de cuisine/partner Steven Thompson’s authentic French comfort food. The menu is the same in both locations, and there’s a new $16 brunch with dishes such as Quiche Lorraine and Croque Monsieur or Madame. More new menu additions of charcuterie, duck rilletes, and rabbit terrine are on the way too, and you’ll want to be drinking artisan ciders from Brittany and Normandy, or anything from the all-French wine list. Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts (CRMR) is branching out! Buffalo Mountain Café is now open in Banff at Buffalo Mountain Lodge, on Tunnel Mountain Road. This grab-and-go café has fresh coffee, pastries, sandwiches and house-made desserts – perfect for a casual bite.   And now CRMR’s Urban Butcher’s third location is open at the new Granary Road Market! As well as ethically and naturally raised local meats, Urban Butcher offers fresh deli products and those delicious CRMR Kitchen ready-made meals. Model Milk has a new Chef de Cuisine – Blair Clemis, from Taber, is taking over the kitchen after working in restaurants all over the world, including three Michelin-starred kitchens. Now he’s back home and up for the challenge!

hotelblackfoot.com


Off The Menu story and photography by LINDA GARSON

Once tasted, never forgotten – this bruschetta is one of the best in Calgary. Everyone who tries it wants the recipe! Many thanks to 4th Spot and Spot On Executive Chef Trent Bochek for sharing his recipe for this super delicious and easy to prepare dish.

Moderno Bruschetta

2. Let marinate for a minimum of

Serves 4 - 6

6 hours.

3 cups fresh tomatoes, ½ cm diced 1 cup sundried tomatoes, chopped ½ red onion, ½ cm diced 1 Tbs garlic, minced 3 Tbs + 1 tsp (50 mL) olive oil 2 scant Tbs (28 mL) balsamic vinegar 2 Tbs fresh basil, chopped 2 tsp dried basil 2 tsp white sugar To taste salt and pepper

3. Scoop the marinated bruschetta

1. Mix all ingredients in a large stainless steel bowl.

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mixture onto plain or Parmesan crostini. Note: Chef Bochek serves his bruschetta with Parmesan crostini – thin slices of baguette sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese and grilled or baked until crisp. If there’s a dish in a local restaurant that you’d love to make, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you!


N OW S E RV I N G O U R F R E S H FA LL M E N U T E RW I L L EGA R

|

Pssst...

ST ALBERT

D I N E N I N E T E E N .CO M

All of our beers are 100% Vegan. We’re not the types to make a big stink about it, but if that’s your thing, we’d like you to know. If you want to really hear us go on and on though, come see us! We’ve got the taproom running like a swiss watch and our patio is the place to enjoy our humble wares and the occasional food truck fare. Bring a friend or three, bring an enemy (bring a frienemy and we’ll do our best to play it cool). We have Alberta’s finest crew brewing up some of the province’s best craft beers. We’ll show you the grounds, give you a tour of the facility, fill your growler and set you up with our finest swag, it’ll be great. Anyhoo, we can save it up for when you get here...

For hours, pouring locations, events, tour info, map & directions visit

BenchCreEkBrewing.COM

Braised LAMB & GremOLATA? With over 1500 beers, Find A pairing as unique as your dinner. 11819 St. Albert Trail | SHERBROOKELIQUOR.COM


Book Review ICON Flagship Wines from British Columbia’s Best Wineries TouchWood Editions 2017 $39.95

There is no doubt that British Columbia’s wines have come a very long way in a very short time, and John Schreiner has been there talking, writing about, and tasting B.C.’s wines since the 1980s. With his typically approachable style, he also tackles possibly the most challenging wine a winery produces – their icon or flagship wine. It not only says “this is my finest” but that the source of the wine is notable and attention worthy. Nearly 100 wineries are covered in the book with comprehensive tasting notes, vintage notes, and comments about several back vintages for each icon wine. While the book might quickly drift out of date with each successive

by TOM FIRTH

vintage of these icons, most of the wines should cellar gracefully or be jealously hoarded for special occasions, meaning most collectors will probably pull down this book from the shelf from time to time when contemplating pulling the cork on something fancy. Peppered throughout the book are photos by Christopher Stenberg, whose beautiful shots should inspire readers to visit the Okanagan once again very quickly. I was pleasantly surprised to find both well-known wineries and some quite far off the beaten path included, ranging from regional stalwarts like Burrowing Owl (page 36), Tinhorn Creek (page 286) or Quail’s Gate (page 226), to much more recent offerings in Alberta like C.C. Jentsch (page 44), Culmina (page 70), and Clos du Soleil (page 58).

Opens September

4

2 5

444 7 Ave SW

1

Ultimately, this is a significant work that clearly proves not only that British Columbia’s wine has come of age, but also that there is a worthy story to tell. This is a book that will look equally good on the coffee table, as it would be winestained and well loved near your cellar. Tom Firth is the contributing Drinks editor for Culinaire magazine, and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.


Finding A Home For Your Kitchen Scraps: Calgary Rolls Out Green Carts by SILVIA PIKAL

What do fruits and veggies, coffee filters, and leftovers from last night’s dinner have in common? They’re all compostable and accepted by the City of Calgary’s new green cart program. The city began rolling out green carts to single-family homes in June 2017 with a kitchen pail and a starter supply of compostable bags and yard waste bags. They are expected to deliver more than 320,000 carts by late September. Philippa Wagner, the city’s green cart implementation leader, says that a green cart pilot program started in four Calgary communities in 2012 saw the amount of waste going to landfills cut almost in half. “We’re taking material that would otherwise be buried in a landfill and turning it into a nutrientrich compost that can be used by

landscapers, farmers and gardeners to enrich their soil,” Wagner says. All kitchen scraps and yard waste will be taken to a brand-new compost facility and turned into finished compost in 60 days. The majority of the compost will be sold, while some will be donated to community gardens and made available to Calgarians free of charge. Calgary joins other Canadian cities, like Edmonton, with a composting program. Edmonton built a composting facility in 2000, and sorts through residential garbage to recover as much organic waste as possible before sending it to be broken down. With composting and recycling combined, Edmonton diverts about 60 percent of residential garbage from landfills. Mark Stumpf-Allen, the City of Edmonton’s compost programs coordinator, has been composting for decades, and doesn’t let any organic waste end up in his garbage bin. He encourages the estimated 20 percent of Calgarians who already compost to keep up the good work.

“Edmonton’s challenge to Calgary is don’t stop backyard composting, because that’s the best thing you can do for the environment,” he says.

Green bin tips and tricks

- Put your kitchen scraps in a certified compostable bag or newspaper lining inside your new kitchen pail. - Empty the dishwasher-safe pail every few days into your green cart along with yard waste. - Check the collection schedule at calgary.ca/collection. Green carts and blue carts will be picked up on the same day every week, while black carts will be picked up on a different day every other week. You can sign up for free reminders on collection on this website too.

What to put in your kitchen pail: - Plate scrapings - Meat, fish and bones - Fruits and vegetables - Bread and noodles - Eggshells and dairy products - Coffee filters and tea bags - Paper plates, napkins and tissues - Cooking oil, sauces and grease

Silvia Pikal is Culinaire’s new multimedia editor. She is also a prose editor for FreeFall literary magazine and a freelance writer. She has an uncanny ability to sense when a chocolate bar enters a room.

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Tomato Salad with Whipped Feta

Chefs' Tips

Tricks!

Tomatoes: Simple Is Always Best by LEILANI OLYNIK photography by DONG KIM and PHIL WILSON

There’s nothing quite like a plump, vine-ripened tomato, bursting in your mouth with the flavour of pure sunshine. While immensely versatile, and celebrated in a wide variety of cuisines, there’s one thing that holds true across all interpretations: less is more. 12

Pulling back on all the flashy extras and letting the tomato shine is way easier when you have an exceptional product, so always try your best to source your tomatoes locally. It isn’t too hard these days, with a number of quality local greenhouses providing top-notch tomatoes year round. Pop by your local farmers’ market and connect with your grower to access high quality product and explore new varieties. We asked Brad Smoliak of Kitchen, in Edmonton, to share with us one of his favourite tomato recipes. And, let’s face it, a man who has spent more than two and a half decades training; consulting at not one, but two, Olympic games;

advising on a Board of Directors of Edmonton’s hottest, largest and oldest outdoor farmers’ markets; wowing viewers as a guest chef on television; leading and entertaining at culinary parties; and writing his own cookbook… is there anything Smoliak hasn’t done?! This guy definitely knows his way around a tomato. Brad Smoliak


Brad Smoliak

KITCHEN, Edmonton

Tajdeen Ali

Tomato Salad with Whipped Feta

1. In a large pot bring vegetable stock to a boil, lower the heat and add Parmesan. Let simmer.

2. Blanch tomatoes and peel the skin

Serves 4 side salads or 2 main Total prep time 15 minutes

off, then blend tomatoes in a blender.

1 cup feta cheese, crumbled 1 cup (240 mL) sour cream or crème fraîche 450 g tomatoes, mixed variety 2 Tbs (30 mL) red wine vinegar 2 Tbs (30 mL) cold pressed canola oil (more for drizzling) To taste, kosher salt To taste, cracked black pepper ¼ red onion, sliced Toasted sunflower seeds, to garnish

in a little olive oil, until slightly brown

1. In a food processor or

blender, pulse the feta cheese until almost smooth.

2. Add the sour cream and

continue to pulse until it is a smooth consistency. Set aside. This will make more than you need for this recipe, but it’s great as a dip or on burgers.

3. Cut the tomatoes, some into

quarters and some into slices, to get a mix of sizes and shapes.

4. Mix together the vinegar and

oil, salt and pepper, and any juices that accumulate while cutting the tomatoes.

5. Toss tomatoes and onions with

the vinegar oil “dressing”. Taste and let sit 10 minutes. Taste again and adjust seasonings, as tomatoes taste different throughout the season.

6. To serve, smear some whipped

feta on the bottom of a plate, and pile on the tomatoes. Garnish with toasted sunflower seeds and kosher salt.

7. Drizzle with a little cold pressed canola and enjoy!

3. In a large pot, sauté garlic and onion 4. Add blended tomatoes into the pot and cook 15 minutes.

5. Add parmesan broth into the pot and let simmer another 15 minutes.

Tajdeen Ali

Lina’s Italian Market, Calgary Maybe one of the most classic ways to honour a beautiful ingredient is to turn to Italian cuisine. The Italians just have a knack for keeping it simple and letting the tomato shine. Tajdeen Ali started his career in hotel management in India, traveling to Dubai, France, Italy, and Spain, before landing on a luxury cruise line to travel the world seven times over. It was there that he cultivated his passion for cooking, and perfected techniques before moving to Canada. He’s now the chef at Calgary's Lina’s Italian Market, wooing us all with his irresistible Tuscan Tomato Bread Soup. A classic that never loses its delicious appeal.

6. Add basil and oregano, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. At the end, top off the soup with focaccia croutons.

Play with different tomatoes; there are hundreds of varieties and each has its own unique, subtle flavour. And each lends itself to a style of cooking; whether you’re keeping it simple with a fresh tomato salad, making a fresh batch of homemade salsa, or canning a luscious tomato sauce, there is no limit to finding what you love most and loving the hell out of it. Leilani's background is in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. She can be found buzzing around the Calgary Farmers’ Market as their Marketing Coordinator.

Tuscan Tomato Bread Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings Total prep and cook time 45 minutes 4 cups (1 L) vegetable stock 400 g Parmesan cheese 1 Kg fresh tomatoes 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 medium onion, diced Olive oil 20 g basil 10 g fresh oregano To taste, kosher salt To taste, cracked black pepper 1 loaf Focaccia bread, cubed into croutons 13


5 Local Grocers Share Their Tips On Shopping Local by MALLORY FRAYN

Blush Lane Organics

Gone are the days of one-stop shopping for groceries at the nearest supermarket. With an ever-increasing interest in supporting local producers, it has become quite common to seek out specialty grocers for your ingredients.

some truly stellar products. It’s a win-win and no one is doing it better than these Alberta grocers and vendors.

Whether this means picking up fresh vegetables from a farm stand at the market, or chatting up your butcher to choose the best cut of meat for your grilling needs, the connection between consumers and grocers benefits all involved.

Blush Lane Organics

Customers get to learn about their food, where it comes from, and how best to work with it, while vendors get to share their knowledge and promote 14

Time means experience, and experience means knowledge. Since 1998, Blush Lane Organics have been dealing with produce, whether growing their own at their orchard in British Columbia, or forging relationships with the growers they are buying from. “We are very connected to the source,” says co-owner, Zenya

Horricks. For the consumer, this means getting a higher quality product, but it also ensures that the farmers receive fair and equitable wages for the work that they put in. “We want to keep people growing organically, so we support them,” Horricks explains. At Blush Lane, “organic” is more than just a label; it’s everything from choosing arable land, to maintaining transparency throughout the process so consumers know exactly what they are paying for. Plus it’s all done on a smaller scale, allowing the opportunity to supply unique produce that large-scale grocers cannot offer in the quantities they would need.


“We have 20 to 30 varieties of apples we sell at our locations across Calgary and Edmonton,” Horricks says. That’s a lot more than the typical Granny Smith, Gala, and Macintosh you can find at a regular grocery store.

These personal connections mean that you might get delicious suggestions you wouldn’t have thought of on your own, like pairing their prosciutto salami with a nice glass of merlot and a wedge of pecorino cheese.

Luc’s European Meats

Broxburn Farms

Red Cup Distillery is

With locations at Calgary Farmers’ Market, Crossroads Market, and the recently opened Granary Road, Luc’s European Meats is a family-owned deli specializing in everything from salami to landjäger. Owners Sonia and Bruce Alle are setting themselves apart by offering charcuterie that is made from scratch, gluten-free, and without any fillers, soy, or dairy. It’s a far cry from some of the mass-produced “mystery meat” you often come across at big box grocers. “Shopping directly from a local grocer provides an intimate quality experience because business owners are held to a higher level of accountability for the quality of their products and service,” says Sonia Alle. “With this accountability comes well-informed staff that take pride in sharing information about their products with customers.”

a craft distillery in Vegreville using local grain, in house green malt and prairie Broxburn Farms While not technically a grocer, Paul de Jonge has taken a different approach to many farmers and has taken direct control over the marketing and sale of his ingredients. Not only does it give customers the opportunity to establish a relationship with their farmer, it cuts out the middleman, providing access to an abundance of information that could only come from someone who has an intimate relationship with the food that they grow. “By purchasing direct from a farmer you get riper produce,” de Jonge says, “The farmer harvests it and then takes it to the market, thus bypassing any warehouses in between.” Fewer days from harvest to your table means enjoying produce that not only tastes better, but also retains more of its nutrition. With market stalls at various locations in Calgary, such as Market on Macleod and Crossroads Market, you have guaranteed access to the freshest produce all year long.

Luc’s European Meats

Upholding The Tradition

“It does take a lot of work, but when your customers give you positive feedback, it makes it all worthwhile,” says de Jonge.

moonshine recipes in a locally made 250 and 1,000-gallon Edmonton-made pot stills. Available in liquor stores across Alberta.

www.redcupdistillery.ca  @redcupdistillery  RedCupDistillery2015 Vegreville, Alberta, Canada


The Italian Centre Shop

The Italian Centre Shop Since its inception in 1959, The Italian Centre Shop has emphasized community in all that they do. Founder Frank Spinelli, built his store on the foundation “eat today, pay when you can” and played a huge role in helping Italian immigrants build new lives for themselves in Edmonton. Today, his daughter Teresa continues the family business, which has expanded to several locations in Edmonton, as well as Calgary. “Our policy is that we support local as much as possible,” Spinelli says. This mentality extends through all aspects of the business, from the connections they establish with their clientele, to the producers whose products they sell. In addition to the over 10,000 products they import from Italy, they also carry about 300 local products at any given time. This includes local, grass-fed beef from Messinger Meats, which is used in their Massimo’s line of from-scratch, readyto-eat pasta meals, freshly made daily.

MARKET STYLE

BRUNCH EVERY SUNDAY 10AM - 3PM $25.00 per person includes coffee and tea RESERVE AT WWW.STARBELLY.CA

Urban Butcher

selection of ethically and naturally raised local meats, in an environment that helps customers learn about the products they are buying and where they come from. Master Butcher Bob Choquette and Chef Lancelot Monteiro are bringing customers everything from good old Alberta beef, to pre-marinated, ready-to-cook items that you can take home and enjoy. When asked how people can benefit from visiting their local butcher as opposed to getting their meat at the grocery store, Choquette points to the fact that you get a lot more personalized interaction with the people behind the counter.

Urban Butcher

“We offer inspiration and recipes to create something unique for dinner or use ingredients you never knew how to cook prior,” he says. Not to mention that the quality and consistency of the products is much higher than a large scale grocery outlet can guarantee.

One of the newest members of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts (CRMR) family, Urban Butcher offers a

Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat

“You can pick up an espresso and breakfast in the morning and grab a healthy dinner for later while you are at it,” Spinelli adds.


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• • THE

HEART OF BRITISH COLUMBIA

COURTESY LEILA KWOK

AN ENDLESS DESERT SKY IS FRAMED IN MOUNTAIN PEAKS AND WISPY CLOUDS, WITH WARM SUNSHINE DAYS INVITING US TO LINGER. LAKES AND LAZY RIVERS FEED A COLOURFUL QUILT OF ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS, BRINGING BRILLIANT LIFE TO AN OTHERWISE ARID LANDSCAPE. THE SOUTH OKANAGAN HOLDS THE HEART OF BRITISH COLUMBIA WINE COUNTRY IN OLIVER AND OSOYOOS. The Oliver Osoyoos Winery Association is a collective of 39 wineries with vineyards from the Osoyoos border (south) to the tip of McIntyre Bluff (north). Not sure where to start? Begin with one of the longest running wine events in the region. The Festival of the Grape attracts close to 4,000 people with wine tastings and an entertainment zone to entice kids of all ages. The grape stomping competition can get messy, so firefighters do their part to help participants ‘freshen up’ (think fire hose shower). This is agri-focused with a casual vibe and it sells out each year. Watch for Festival of the Grape celebrated this year on October 1.

The popular Pig Out takes place in early May and pairs wineries with local eateries in celebration of (you guessed it) all things pig. Think of it as an enormous family picnic. Later, wine-sipping active types take on the Half Corked Marathon. This fun half marathon invites costumed competitors to jog through wine country, drink in hand. It’s so popular – tickets are allocated by lottery. Choose your own adventure and map a route by car (with a designated driver) or book a tour. Outdoor enthusiasts can cycle with Heat Stroke Cycle in Osoyoos. It’s a unique twist on cycle tours with their Pedego Electric Bikes for you to pedal through vineyard, motor assisted. Tours start at $169.99. Saddle up.


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• • WINE TOURING: FROM THE SOUTH Begin in Osoyoos at Lariana Cellars, the southernmost winery with five acres snug against the border and next to the notable Young & Wyse. Head east for Adega on 45th and Nk’Mip Cellars, with Moon Curser Vineyards at the base of Anarchist Mountain. North of town is Bordertown Vineyards, another newer local wine face. Plan well, take your time, and leave room for more.

1 2

• • HIGHWAY 97 Make your way north to Road 13 Vineyards, planted in the mid 1980s and now owned by the Luckhursts. The original castle-like tasting room watches over the Golden Mile Bench and acts as gateway to their new wine lounge for club members. From the highway a quick jaunt east offers a shortcut to Black Sage Road (we’ll get there soon), or turn west on Road 8 for Intersection Estate Winery, Gehringer Bros (established 1985), and Hester Creek Estate Winery. The latter was founded in 1968 and has B.C.’s oldest trebbiano vines. What’s trebbiano? Visit, learn, and taste – if it’s not sold out. Hester Creek offers a blend of visitor experience. There’s an expansive tasting room, on-site villas for vineyard accommodation, and winery dining with Terrafina at Hester Creek by RauDZ. The tasting room has a small commercial-grade kitchen for cooking classes and there’s music on the patio every Saturday, all summer. Watch the Hester Creek website for upcoming events through to December and plan your getaway around what looks tasty. Next, find Road 7 and Tinhorn Creek Vineyards. Established in 1993 by the Shaughnessys and Oldfields, this winery is named after the usually dry Tinhorn Creek. The winery driveway

follows the edge, exposing some of the alluvial fan – a unique feature to help distinguish the Golden Mile Bench as its own geographical indicator. Tinhorn’s partnership with restaurateur Manuel Ferriera and executive chef Jeff Van Geest put Miradoro on the scene, winning five consecutive seasons of Winery Restaurant of the Year. The winery hosts the Canadian Concert Series in an outdoor amphitheatre with valley vistas and, in the distance, one might see the Diamondback Vineyard on Black Sage Road. Internationally recognized wines and acclaimed food with a down to earth vibe. Bring your curiosity to the demonstration vineyard or barrel cellar, as both are open to the public.

• • BLACK SAGE ROAD Located beside Tinhorn’s Black Sage Road vineyard and dating back to the early ‘90s, the Wyse family planted on what was then a quiet stretch of land. It


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1 Road 13 Vineyards 2 Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 3 Hester Creek Estate Winery 3 4

wasn’t until 1997 that the Burrowing Owl Vineyards winery license came about and doors opened in 1998. Guest suites and a restaurant were added in turn.

4 Church and State Winery The winery is named for the burrowing owl, declared extinct here in 1980 but now a growing population thanks to a captive breeding program. In the surrounding areas are more than 800 artificial burrows to help increase the owl’s odds. Tasting room fees go to the Burrowing Owl Conservation Society; to date they’ve donated over one million dollars. Close neighbour Desert Hills is known for award-winning gamay and a solid wine portfolio. At Platinum Bench, wine tasting is

paired with freshly baked artisan breads – get there before they’re sold out. Nearby Bartier Bros staked their winery claim at the long-farmed Cerqueira Vineyard and are transitioning to organic. On the north end of Oliver is River Stone Estate Winery with their small lot offerings and quaint neighbourhood feel. Newer faces include Blue Sky (Osoyoos), Rust Wine Co (on Road 16), and Pipe Dreams Winery (north of Oliver). Behind every new sign is another story of people, place, and adventure. In Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country, you can always find a reason to stay a little longer. Stop at the places that catch your eye and make a new favourite memory. Slow down, relax, and uncork the sun.


Preserving The Harvest With Savoury And Sweet Jams And Jellies story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

The bounty of fresh vegetables and fruit is non-stop right now, which means my canner is dusted off and my half-pint jars are cleaned and ready to go. Jams and jellies not only taste mighty fine, they are a fantastic way to preserve the mountain of tomatoes, onions, cherries, plums, and berries you have on hand. While preserving does take a little time, once you crack open that jar in the middle of winter, all your hard work will be well worth it.

Tomato Jam

Makes four 250 mL jars

Tomato jam is a fancier take on ketchup, and a wonderful way to use up all of the beautiful fresh Roma tomatoes in the fall. This savoury jam is simple to prepare – just dump all of the ingredients in a large pot, and stir-stir-stir – and a real

treat to eat. Slather on burgers or sandwiches, or even mix with mayo for a dipping sauce for French fries. 2.2 kg Roma tomatoes, cored and chopped 3½ cups granulated sugar ½ cup (125 mL) fresh lime juice 2 tsp fresh ginger, grated and peeled 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground cloves 1 Tbs sea salt 2 -3 tsp red pepper flakes (more if you like more heat)

Combine all the ingredients in a large, nonreactive pot. Bring to a boil over high heat and then turn the heat down to low. Simmer the jam, stirring regularly, until it reduces to a sticky, jammy consistency.

In the middle of winter, all your hard work will be well worth it

Toward the end of cooking, be vigilant about stirring, as it burns easily when it’s nearly finished. When it is done (around two hours), it should look glossy and not runny. 21


Balsamic Onion Jam Makes four 250 mL jars.

The ordinary onion gets the royal treatment with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and red wine, becoming a delicious, extraordinary onion jam. Slowly simmered for over an hour, the onions reduce down into a luxurious spread, wonderful on sandwiches (looking at you, Reuben), ricotta toast, even omelettes. Once you have it in your pantry, you will find many ways to incorporate it into your culinary masterpieces.

This jam keeps for six months in the refrigerator, so you can funnel it into jars, let it cool and then pop it in the back of the fridge. However, to preserve the tomato jam for longer, or to give away as a gift, here is what you do: When the jam is nearly done, prepare a boiling water bath and sterilize four half-pint (250 mL) jars. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat. When the jam has cooked down sufficiently, remove the pot from the heat and ladle the jam into the prepared jars, using a wide-mouth funnel. Wipe the rims, put on the lids and rings, being sure not to twist the ring on too tight, and process in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes, from the moment the water comes back to a boil after you add the jars. Turn the heat off at 20 minutes, uncover and let the jars stand for 5 minutes longer. Carefully remove the jars from the hot water and let cool on the counter for 24 hours. You should hear a popping sound when they are sealed. Preserved, unopened jars of tomato jam will last up to two years. 22

1.5 kg peeled and trimmed onions, yellow, white, red, or a mix ½ cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil 3 bay leaves 3 to 4 tsp (15-20 mL) kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup (125 mL) balsamic vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL) red wine vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL) red wine ½ cup (125 mL) honey ¼ cup sugar

1. Cut the onions in half and slice them thinly crosswise. You need ten heaping cups of onions.

2. Heat the oil in a heavy 5 or 6-quart stock pot with a tight-fitting lid and add the onions, turning them over repeatedly in the oil to coat them. Stir in the bay leaves. Season the onions with two teaspoons of kosher salt and a few grinds of black pepper, and lower the heat to a simmer.

3. Cover the pot and cook the onions for 15 to 20 minutes, until they have softened and released their liquid.

The ordinary onion gets the royal treatment with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and red wine

4. Remove the lid and add the

vinegars, wine, honey, and sugar, stirring well. Season the mixture with 1 more teaspoon of salt and a few more grinds of black pepper.

5. Continue to simmer and cook the onions for an additional 20 minutes, stirring the mixture often with a wooden spoon.

6. When the liquid has reduced

by about half, pick out the bay leaves and continue cooking for another 15 minutes. Taste the onion jam and season with additional salt and pepper if needed. As the liquid continues to reduce, keep stirring to prevent the onion jam from burning. Continue cooking until soft, sticky, and the jam moves from the bottom of the pan as you stir.

7. When you’re happy with the

consistency, ladle the jam carefully into sterilized jars, using a wide-mouth funnel. Seal the jars and process in a water bath for 20 minutes (see tomato jam recipe) if you plan to store them, or keep the onion jam refrigerated for up to two months.


fam·i· ly style: [fam-uh-lee, fam-lee]

(adj.) of or being Blackberry and Raspberry Brown Sugar Jam Makes 250 mL

Everybody needs a quick, no-fuss recipe for jam. There is no hot water canning involved, which means this is simple, small batch stuff, and a great way to use up some berries that are a little past their prime. Brown sugar adds lovely notes of caramel, but granulated white will work just fine too. 3 cups mixed blackberries and raspberries ½ cup lightly packed brown sugar 1 Tbs (15 mL) fresh lemon juice Pinch of kosher salt

1. In a large saucepan, combine the

ingredients and crush with a potato masher until the juices start flowing. Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally until the jam is thickened and a bit reduced, about 20 minutes.

2. Skim off any foam. Transfer the

jam to a clean jar and let it cool to room temperature. Seal tightly with a lid. Store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

a sit-down meal where dishes of food are placed on the table from which diners serve themselves

1.

a. We relish the enthusiasm and zeal with which traditional Italian dining is to be enjoyed. b. Our open kitchen showcases our chefs preparing fresh and local ingredients.

2. a. Join us for dinner, enjoy a relaxing evening, our unique family

style service and the traditional Italian Piatti (courses). Your table comes alive when we present a variety of large offerings on platters or bowls within easy reach of all.

3. a. Our favourite nights are the ones where the room is alive with

sounds of clattering cutlery on plates, clinking of glassware, the bustling kitchen, all intermingled with animated discussion.

b. Available at vivo downtown. vivo downtown

10505 106 Street | 587-525-7500 downtown@vivoristorante.ca vivo ristorante westend

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published earlier this year.

18352 Lessard Road | 780-756-7710 westend@vivoristorante.ca

www.vivoristorante.ca


Back To School Cocktails! by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM

What comes to mind when you think of September? Our thoughts turn to harvest time for local gardens and school starting again, so we asked two Alberta mixologists to celebrate the season with cocktails that we can make at home!

Mike Squire

Cilantro, Calgary “It’s time to relax with a mature, adult cocktail, now that the kids are back in school,” says Cilantro’s bar manager, Mike Squire. “This savoury and tart blend of sun-dried tomatoes, raisins, and rum will make the summer last well after the kids are gone.” His Sun-Dried Tomato and Raisin Gastrique has multiple uses in cooking and as a delicious spread too. Or just drink it all in this tasty fall cocktail!

The Royal Sultana

1½ oz dark rum ½ oz Green Chartreuse 2 tsp Sun-Dried Tomato Raisin gastrique 1 dash lemon bitters 1 dash lemon juice

Shake all ingredients and serve in a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a sundried tomato.  

Sun-Dried Tomato Raisin Gastrique

2/3 cup sun-dried tomatoes 1/3 cup sultanas 2/3 cup (160 mL) water 1/3 cup (80 mL) white vinegar  1 cup sugar 1 sprig of thyme

Add all ingredients to a pot, bring to a boil and let simmer for 10 min. Chill fully, then keep refrigerated.

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Micah Dew

Gateway Casinos, Alberta Gateway Casinos’ Beverage Development Manager, Micah Dew, says that by stepping into classrooms and easing into the fall season, it’s apples that have inspired his cocktail. He uses dry apple cider to keep the drink from becoming too sweet, and adds flavours of vanilla, oak spice, caramel, and lemon citrus, although you can also substitute equal parts of apple juice and soda in place of the cider. “I use Hornitos Black Barrel Tequila because it adds depth and complexity to the drink,” he explains. “They take their reposado tequila and age it further inside whiskey barrels for four months, and then another two months inside specially toasted barrels, to enhance the whiskey and oak flavour.”

Black Spiced Apple Fizz 1 oz Hornitos Black Barrel Tequila ½ oz Galliano liqueur ¼ oz fresh lemon juice 4 oz dry apple cider Apple Fan, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker add tequila, Galliano, lemon juice, and ice, and shake until chilled. Strain into a tall glass with ice and top with apple cider. Set an apple fan garnish on top.

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Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists by TOM FIRTH and LINDA GARSON with TERRY ANDRYO, STEPHANIE ARSENAULT, and PATRICIA KOYICH

We’ve long held the belief that Alberta has without a doubt the best selection of wine, beer, and spirits in the country. With the access we have to some of the finest liquids to ever grace a bottle (or can), we also have some of the best sommeliers, beverage directors, and restaurateurs in the country. These are the people charged with creating a list to complement the menu, highlight regions, countries, or even styles of drinks, that will help an evening become an event or a meal become a masterpiece. The awards for Alberta’s Finest Drinks Lists were created to highlight those restaurants with world-class lists. With well over 100 lists submitted, and 11 different categories to be evaluated, we had some very busy days this summer. As well as the best overall list, we wanted to celebrate the small list, beer, and spirit lists, and so on, so that we could find the best lists for when you’re travelling, looking for the best spot for a glass of wine, or even a place for a weeknight. Special thanks to everyone who submitted their lists, and also to the new East Village Hilton Garden Inn for being a fantastic venue for our judging, and to our sponsor, Alberta Treasury Branch who, among other things, reminded us that with the great selection of local brewers, distillers, and wineries, we really should talk more about Alberta-made.

Vin Room West 26


Our Judges

Linda Garson

Co-Chair, Editor in Chief Culinaire Magazine Since 2005, as the creator of Vine & Dine, Linda has spent more time than most eating, drinking, and studying menus and wine lists. Running her educational wine and food-pairing program for so long has given her such an appreciation of Alberta’s vibrant culinary scene, that she launched Culinaire magazine in 2012 to celebrate the best our province has to offer in the world of food and beverages.

Tom Firth

Co-Chair, Drinks Editor Culinaire Magazine A 20+ year veteran of the beverage industry, Tom spent several years retailing for two of the best wine stores in the province before moving to the journalism side of a wine bottle. The drinks editor for Culinaire magazine, and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, he’s spent many a day pouring over wine lists with an eye for exciting bottles that won’t wreck the budget.

Linda Garson

Terry Andryo

Terry Andryo

A guy who sees food and beverage from a completely different perspective; his point of view is from the farmers’ side of the table. Engaged in Agricultural Marketing with ATB Financial, he has re-enforced his family values by supporting local; eating seasonal, fresh food; and having an open mind to cultural culinary experiences and diversity.

Stephanie Arsenault

As a freelance food and travel writer and photographer, Stephanie has had the chance to experience an assortment of food and drink lists around the world. She is WSET

Tom Firth

Stephanie Arsenault

(Wine & Spirit Education Trust) and Prud’homme certified, the author over at globaldish. ca, and an advocate for craft brews and patio pints.

Patricia Koyich

Well-known and well-respected as a restaurateur in Calgary for many years, Patricia Koyich joined SAIT in 2011, teaching dining room service, bar mixology and wine service. Launching this fall, she is part of the curriculum and development team for the Culinary Entrepreneurship post diploma program.

Patricia Koyich 27


Best Overall Wine List

Teatro

By far the largest category, with more than 75 percent of all lists entered, the winners in this grouping deserve a standing ovation. This is the all-encompassing category, and we were looking for a broad range of styles, countries, and prices; verticals too of lesser-known names as well as famous names. Our winners represent the best wine lists our province has to offer, and it’s impressive. Very impressive. On these lists, there’s not only something for everyone and every pocket – you’d be completely spoiled for choice! Bravo Alberta! Linda Garson

Lake House

DIAMOND AWARD Teatro 200 8 Avenue SE, Calgary teatro.ca

GOLD AWARD The Post Hotel & Spa 200 Pipestone Road, Lake Louise posthotel.com

River Café

Eden 300 Mountain Avenue, Banff rimrockresort.com

Lake House 747 Lake Bonavista Drive SE, Calgary lakehousecalgary.com

Cilantro 338 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cilantrocalgary.com

River Café 25 Prince’s Island Park, Calgary river-cafe.com Cilantro

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Alloy

Alloy 220 42 Avenue SE, Calgary alloydining.com

Caption


Most Comprehensive Wine List With the nearly staggering availability and selection in Alberta, how does one evaluate a list for being comprehensive? With breadth and depth of course. The show-stopping restaurants below had it all, wine for the adventurous, something for the oenophile, and yes even something for the not-too-bold, but the selections were always exceptional. Of course, with a list like these you can always ask for help finding that perfect bottle. Tom Firth

DIAMOND AWARD Teatro 200 8 Avenue SE, Calgary teatro.ca

Cilantro

Post Hotel & Spa Photo credit Bill Marsh

Lake House 747 Lake Bonavista Drive SE, Calgary lakehousecalgary.com

GOLD AWARD

Vin Room (Mission) 2310 4 Street SW, Calgary vineroom.com

The Post Hotel & Spa 200 Pipestone Road, Lake Louise posthotel.com

Cilantro 338 - 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cilantrocalgary.com

Eden 300 Mountain Avenue, Banff rimrockresort.com

River Café 25 Prince’s Island Park, Calgary river-cafe.com

Best Themed List This was the most surprising category – who knew there were so many themed lists in Alberta’s restaurants and bars? Our winners excelled at their specialty – from tequila to champagne, sake to rum, and gin to mezcal. Our jaws dropped at the depth of these lists, and while they all differ widely, the common factor is the thought and resources invested in ANEJO Restaurant

these selections, and how fitting they all are for the style of restaurant. It was a hard-fought category, so congratulations to all our winners, particularly to Anejo for their show-stopping list. Linda Garson

Ricardo’s Hideaway

DIAMOND AWARD

Whitehall

ANEJO Restaurant (Tequila) 2, 2116-4 Street SW, Calgary anejo.ca

GOLD AWARD Ricardo’s Hideaway (Rum) 1530 5 Street SW, Calgary ricardoshideaway.ca Native Tongues Taqueria (Mezcal) 235 12 Avenue SW, Calgary nativetongues.ca Untitled Champagne Lounge (Champagne) 104 - 620 8 Avenue SW, Calgary untitledyyc.com

Goro and Gun (Sake) 245 - 225 7 Avenue SW, Calgary goroandgun.ca Whitehall (Gin) 24 4 Street NE, Calgary whitehallrestaurant.com 29


Cilantro

Bonterra Trattoria

Oxbow

Best By the Glass List I’m a huge fan of a good by-the-glass wine list. Despite wine-lovers typically opting for certain varieties, it’s always great to try different wines; whether it’s a new grape, region, year, or style.

GOLD AWARD Cilantro 338 17 Avenue SW, Calgary cilantrocalgary.com

Oxbow 1126 Memorial Drive NW, Calgary oxbowyyc.ca

That’s where a great by-the-glass list comes in. Vin Room (all three locations) has an extensive assortment (each spot is slightly different), an impressive price range, and fantastic options when it comes to tasting, flights, and glasses. It’s impossible to go wrong. Stephanie Arsenault

Untitled Champagne Lounge 104 620 8 Avenue SW, Calgary untitledyyc.com

Pigeonhole 306 17 Avenue SW, Calgary pigeonholeyyc.ca

Bonterra Trattoria 1016 8 Street SW, Calgary bonterra.ca Pigeonhole

DIAMOND AWARD Vin Room (Mission) 2310 4 Street SW, Calgary vinroom.com Vin Room West 8561 8A Avenue SW, Calgary vinroom.com Vin Room Airport Calgary International Airport vinroom.com

30

Untitled Champagne Lounge Vin Room (Mission)


Best Small List I’ll be quite frank, this was the category I was most interested in seeing the results for. Sure, a massive list can cover all the basics, but a small list done well, can make sure that every single bottle or offering is well-curated, and most importantly delicious – perfect for the menu… or just a great wine for sharing with a friend.

DIAMOND AWARD White Rose Kitchen 6512 Bowness Road NW, Calgary whiterosekitchen.ca

Bridgette Bar 739 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bridgettebar.com

I was pleased to see these three restaurants rise to the top as they are phenomenal examples of what a great list can be. Tom Firth

Cassis Bistro 2505 17 Avenue SW, Calgary thecassisbistro.ca

Best Medium List

Provision 340 13 Avenue SW, Calgary provisionyyc.ca

This is the middle ground, with many lists having between 25 and 50 selections. As with small lists, it's not easy to ensure there is a choice of wines for everyone, as well as a wide range of prices to suit every pocket, and all fitting the style and genre of the restaurant, in 50 or less offerings. The care and thought that have gone into these lists was apparent, congrats to all! Linda Garson

DIAMOND AWARD Avec Bistro 105 550 11 Avenue SW avecbistro.com

White Rose Kitchen

GOLD AWARD Bridgette Bar

The Coup 924 17 Avenue SW, Calgary thecoup.ca

Ten Foot Henry 1209 1 Street SW, Calgary tenfoothenry.com Model Milk 308 17 Avenue SW, Calgary modelmilk.ca Shelter 1210 1st Street SW, Calgary shelteryyc.com

The Coup

GOLD AWARD Deane House 806 9 Avenue SE, Calgary deanehouse.com Avec Bistro

Deane House Provision

Ten Foot Henry 31


Best Vertical Selection A traditionalist in my heart and soul, I just can’t describe the respect I have for a vintage collector. Whether one is collecting at home or curating for a restaurant’s cellar, the amount of patience and investment required is substantial. It is certainly not for everyone, and perhaps not even highly sought after for most lists, but one thing is for sure – it should be highly respected and appreciated. Our winners should come as no surprise as these long-established world-class lists have invested the time (and resources) to build these cellars over many years. Patrica Koyich

DIAMOND AWARD Teatro 200 8 Avenue SE, Calgary teatro.ca

GOLD AWARD The Post Hotel & Spa 200 Pipestone Road, Lake Louise posthotel.com

Best Beer List While we had plenty of high hopes for great beer lists, it should come as no surprise that Bottlescrew Bill’s Pub in Calgary reigns as the place to taste the wide world of beer. We saw tremendous variety from a number of places, ranging from small pubs to beer halls, lists with nothing but the big brews and others with only the obscure and rare treats, and Bottlescrew Bill’s led the way with offerings from around the world with breadth and depth. Not to be outdone, our Gold winners may have had slightly smaller beer lists, but they too were wonderfully representative for any fan of a good brew. Tom Firth

National on 10th

DIAMOND AWARD

Eden 300 Mountain Avenue, Banff rimrockresort.com

Bottlescrew Bill’s Pub 140 10 Avenue SW, Calgary, bottlescrewbill.com Eden

GOLD AWARD Craft Beer Market 345 10 Avenue SW, Calgary craftbeermarket.ca

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National Beer Hall +30 Level, Scotia Centre, 360 - 225 8 Avenue SW, Calgary ntnl.ca

Park Distillery 219 Banff Avenue, Banff parkdistillery.com

National on 10th 341 10 Avenue SW, Calgary ntnl.ca

Kawa Espresso Bar 1333 8 Street SW, Calgary kawacalgary.ca

National on 17th 550 17 Avenue SW, Calgary ntnl.ca

CHARCUT Roast House 101 899 Centre Street SW, Calgary charcut.com


Best Spirits List When a restaurant has an exceptional spirits list, it’s always a good sign. After all, that means there’s something to please everyone’s palate, and there’s probably an impressive cocktail menu, to boot. Hy’s Steakhouse, a Calgary institution since 1955, is undoubtedly meat-centric, but food aside, recently they’ve become known for their impeccable drink lists – specifically, their spirits. It’s not just the variety in types of spirits, but the eclectic selections within the categories that truly stand out. Cheers to another 60+ years! Stephanie Arsenault

DIAMOND AWARD Hy’s Steakhouse Calgary The Core, 8 Avenue/3 St. SW, Calgary hyssteakhouse.com

GOLD AWARD Park Distillery 219 Banff Avenue, Banff parkdistillery.com The Bears Den Restaurant and Lounge 254028 Bearspaw Road NW, Calgary bearsdencalgary.com Royale Brasserie 730 17 Avenue SW, Calgary royaleyyc.ca

Park Distillery

The Bears Den Restaurant Hy’s Steakhouse Calgary

Royale Brasserie


Best Bourbon or Whisky List First off, I have to say that there’s an abundance of incredible bourbon and whisky lists in this city. Who knew?! There are some obvious and popular spots, but Buchanan’s came out on top. There’s a great drink list in general, but their bourbon and whisky selections are impeccable; a great mix of local, international, fantastic vintages, and a decent variety of prices make for a list that’s definitely worth a visit. Stephanie Arsenault

DIAMOND AWARD Buchanan’s 738 3 Avenue SW, Calgary buchanans.ca

Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey 1136 Kensington Road NW, Calgary haydenblockyyc.com

GOLD AWARD

Bourbon Room 341b 10 Avenue SW, Calgary bourbonroom.ca

ONE18 Empire 820 Centre Street S, Calgary one18empire.com

The Bothy Wine and Whisky Bar 5482 Calgary Trail, Edmonton thebothy.ca Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey

Bourbon Room

Alberta Made: Best Alberta Content on a List I’m guilty of it; I eat, drink and embrace local. In my travels, I venture a lot, and I often go out of my way to experience the best of what’s local and fresh regionally, but I’ve never experienced a selection in both depth and breadth that I’ve encountered at Cilantro and Chive in Lacombe. Not only do they support the immediate geography of offerings, but also their list of Albertan made Craft Beers and Spirits is unparalleled.

GOLD AWARD Bottlescrew Bill’s Pub 140 10 Avenue SW, Calgary, bottlescrewbill.com

Bo’s Bar & Grill 2310 50 Avenue, Red Deer bosbar.com

Park Distillery 219 Banff Avenue, Banff parkdistillery.com

Tango Bistro 6920 Macleod Trail S, Calgary tangobistro.ca

Cilantro and Chive

Their core offering of local beverages is considerably large; add to that seasonal taps and special casks that rotate periodically, creating a cornucopia to select from. You’ve raised the local bar quite substantially Cilantro and Chive, well played. Terry Andryo

DIAMOND AWARD Cilantro and Chive 5021 50 Street, Lacombe cilantroandchive.ca 34

Bo’s Bar & Grill


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Celebrate and explore beef through The Canadian Beef Centre of Excellence Canadian Beef Centre of Excellence connects everyone from home cooks to chefs, both at home and all over the world, with Canadian beef While Canadians are fiercely loyal about their steak and burgers made with Canadian beef, there’s always more to discover about cooking with, and enjoying, beef. Mathieu Paré, executive director and chef at the Canadian Beef Centre of Excellence, says attractively priced lesser known cuts – like tri-tip or brisket – are delicious and satisfying when cooked with the appropriate culinary technique. Luckily for beef lovers at home, and chefs, dieticians and other industry professionals, the Canadian Beef Centre of Excellence is equipped with a full consumer kitchen for recipe development. The recipe collection can be accessed online at canadabeef.ca, or through The Roundup App, a free culinary app that provides information on all cuts of beef.

Canadian Culinary Heritage Seasoning – Best for Beef! This recipe was adapted from Pierre and Janet Berton’s Canadian Food Guide. First published in 1966 under the title The Centennial Food Guide, Canada Beef’s Canadian Beef Centre of Excellence has modified it to use in Canada culinary celebrations this year Makes: approximately ½ cup 1 Tbs dried oregano leaves 1 Tbs dried thyme leaves 1 Tbs whole celery seed 1 Tbs dried marjoram leaves 1 Tbs granulated garlic

1½ tsp dried rosemary 1 tsp kosher salt 1 Tbs cracked black pepper

“The app is like having a personal butcher and a chef in one. It offers an interactive experience on cut selection and suggests which cooking techniques and recipes will work best. From roasting, stewing, stir fry or grill, the RoundUp ensures for a great cooking and eating experience,” Paré says. For Canadian chefs, producers of Canadian beef, and other industry members looking to expand their knowledge, the centre has a commercial kitchen and cutting facility. The centre boasts well-trained staff like Abe van Melle, a master butcher with more than 26 years of experience heading the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology’s meat cutting program.

1. With mortar and pestle or electric spice grinder combine dried herbs with celery seed, pepper, garlic and salt. Combine until coarsely mixed. Store in tightly covered container. Keeps fresh for up to a year.

The expertise of the staff, and purpose-built facility, give the perfect opportunity to showcase Canadian beef to a global audience interested in importing and cooking with beef. Thanks to a growing demand for Canadian beef in countries such as Mexico, Japan and Taiwan, international chefs travel to the centre to learn from celebrated Canadian chefs, and also share their own techniques on cooking beef.

2. Use as a rub or seasoning. Generously apply 1 to 2 Tbs as a rub to roasts prior to roasting or sprinkle on grilled steaks as they come off the barbecue. Apply rub after searing to prevent burning the herbs and spices.

“We’re here to showcase and celebrate our safe, sustainable, nutritious and delicious Canadian beef. We represent our family of Canadian cattle producers and through our Centre's mission to Connect, Innovate and Inspire, we aim to elevate the value and increase demand for this world class product.”


Organic Okanagan story and photography by LINDA GARSON

There’s new growth in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley; a passionate group of community leaders are hoping to transition the entire valley to organic practices by 2020. We wine lovers automatically think of grapes and vineyards, but Organic Okanagan’s vision is much broader, and includes orchards as well as gardens and parks, highways, school playgrounds, and recreational areas. And it’s a persuasive argument. Summerhill Pyramid Winery founder and proprietor, Stephen Cipes, is very convincing when he speaks about this grassroots movement: “We have a rare combination of being the most northern region in the world that can grow fruit and vegetables. Normally when you're up to the 50th parallel it's too cold, but we have protection from the mountains around the lake. The lake itself gives off warm air but we also have the slowest lake retention time (total turnover time) of any lake in Canada. It's 52.8 years for it to clean itself, and we rely on this water source for drinking.” It’s worrying indeed to think that more than 40 percent of the water for the entire valley comes from the lake, yet it’s easily ruined by toxic farming chemicals draining into it at an unprecedented rate. Cipes says that the Okanagan Valley doesn’t have the pests that hot weather areas have, making it easy to achieve 36

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

organic transition, and that there are excellent economical alternatives. “We can now demonstrate that you can have an organic vineyard at no more cost than a chemical vineyard,” he explains, “and the bonus is that the wines produced are hugely flavourful because you're tasting the actual earth.” Summerhill just being awarded 100 points and a double gold medal for its 2013 Small Lot Semillon Icewine, as well as the top chardonnay in the world at the Chardonnay du Monde Competition in France, is grist to the mill, but the jaw dropper is when he reveals that the biggest single polluter are the wineries.

There are over 350 wineries in the Okanagan, and less than two percent – less than seven wineries – are completely organic. “So we’re doing a whole lot of things to make the whole Okanagan organic by 2020,” Cipes says. “It’s our vision now to get the university, the college and the schools to serve organic food for lunches. We’re working on the schools and, amazingly, while the children are still playing in the playground, they’ll spray with chemicals – this has got to stop.” Ezra Cipes, Summerhill's CEO, picks up the argument: “The wineries are


vineyards, and there are a few organic vineyards that don’t have wineries attached to them, but now Mission Hill have confirmed that all their vineyards will be certified organic within five years. Wineries are shifting. “After all, we’re talking about changing minds,” says Cipes. “And how long does it take to change your mind?”

leaders – it's not difficult to be organic here, but it does require a change in your relationship to the land. If you just stop using synthetic inputs into your vineyard that’s a positive thing, but you have to change the way you think. A vineyard should not look like a golf course; you need pesticides and fungicides for that, so it really is a mind-shift.” He continues that it's a global trend led by some of the most expensive wines in the world – Romanée-Conti is a biodynamic wine – and the question now is no longer “are you organic,” the question is “why aren’t you organic?” It’s happening. Okanagan Crush Pad and Rollingdale Winery are both organic. Covert Farms has organic

But for small wineries and farms, organic certification can be a burden as there is a large paperwork component and a transparent audit trail, even to the point where you need the name, signature, and contact information of the truck driver who delivered to your farm. And not everyone can afford the fees; so it’s not a one-size-fits-all certification.

but instead of having an audit and a paper trail you have a peer review, you have an organic farmer or another CNG farmer come and do an inspection, and write a report and keep you honest.”

“We can now demonstrate that you can have an organic vineyard at no more cost than a chemical vineyard”

“So not only do you get that validity from your neighbours, but you get a community and you get to share knowledge, and instead of having to pay fees, you just make a small donation to the non-profit organisation that administers it,” he continues. “There’s an alternative to organic and that’s really important, it fills a niche that organic doesn’t fill for small farmers.”

But there is an alternative. “It's not an organic certification, it’s called Certified Naturally Grown (CNG) and it’s a really great, honourable certification,” explains Cipes. “The agricultural standards are identical to organic, so the way you actually manage your land is the same,

So, organic Okanagan by 2020 – a lofty ideal? Maybe, but as Cipes says, “Albert Einstein has a great quote, ‘the problems we have created for ourselves cannot be solved at the level of thinking that created them.’ This is a call to wake up.”

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Pretzelfest:

Four Places To Get Made-From-Scratch Pretzels In Alberta by SILVIA PIKAL

Beer is an important part of German culture, and the Germans know how to celebrate it. Every September more than six million people from around the world gather in Munich to participate in Oktoberfest. The first Oktoberfest was a celebration of the future King Ludwig I’s wedding in 1810. The event has evolved over the years to celebrate food and beer, and by Munich law only local breweries are allowed to serve beer at Oktoberfest. Alberta is having its own Oktoberfest festivities from September 22 - 23 in Calgary and September 29 - 30 in Edmonton. In honour of the festival, we are celebrating a staple of German cuisine – the pretzel. A traditional German pretzel is dipped in a food-grade lye solution before being

baked, which gives it that crunchy texture, deep colour and characteristic pretzel flavour. Here are four Alberta locations that make pretzels using this method, along with tips on pairings, and how to serve pretzels to your guests.

Wurst

German fare is at the heart of the menu at Wurst in Calgary. The German-style beer hall serves their “big pretzel” with butter and three different types of mustard. Wurst Big Pretzel Photograph by Silvia Pikal

Ruediger Schmid, Wurst’s executive chef, knows his pretzels. In his homeland of Germany, pretzels are a popular, all-day item. Schmid says once you’ve passed breakfast time, pretzels should be paired with a beer above all else. “The best is a beer. Beer, butter – and you Canadians have that mustard. In Germany we would never do that. It would never happen,” he says, shaking his head. “It’s always butter.” Schmid recommends pairing Wurst’s big pretzel with a Hacker-Pschorr wheat beer, from one of the six breweries that produce Oktoberfest beer. Beer from Hacker-Pschorr Brewery is a big part of Wurst’s own Octoberfest celebrations, along with communal table Bavarian feasts.

Artistic Bake Shop

Artistic Bake Shop in Edmonton has been a family-owned business since 1966, when brothers Anton and Joseph Schwabenbauer, both master bakers from Germany, first opened the bakery. Anton’s son Perry, together with his wife Katherine Schwabenbauer, purchased the bake shop in 1992 and have been running the Edmonton bakery for the last 25 years. Artistic Bake Shop’s traditional Bavarian pretzels first appeared in 1975 – made specifically for Oktoberfest. Due to their popularity, they became a daily item. “People from Germany come to our shop when they’re here because they can’t find them as good as in 38


recipe has been unaltered for the past 15 years. It can be enjoyed on its own or stuffed with cold cuts and cheese.

Courtesy Artistic Bake Shop

Germany,” says Perry Schwabenbauer. “I’m pretty proud of that.” He recommends customers enjoy the pretzels on the same day they buy them as they’re made without additives or preservatives. “In Europe, baked goods are bought fresh daily and you consume them, and tomorrow you buy them fresh again,” Schwabenbauer says. He adds the sky’s the limit when it comes to finding a dip to serve them with. His customers like mustard, butter, cream cheese, and even tzatziki and hummus.

Rustic Sourdough Bakery

Rustic Sourdough Bakery in Calgary is known for its pretzel buns, which have been sold in store for decades. While not in the form of a traditional pretzel, they are made using the traditional German method. Owner John Juurlink, who bought the bakery in 2015, says the pretzel bun Courtesy Rustic Sourdough Bakery

“You can eat a pretzel bun with anything,” Juurlink says. “You can put a hamburger on it or make it a chicken burger. You can cut it up in pieces and dip it in cheese sauce or mustard. It’s a very versatile bun.”

The sky’s the limit when it comes to finding a dip to serve them with

“One of the best beers to have with them would be our Hammerhead Red Ale or Honest Paul IPA, a very hop-forward IPA. Or our Czech pilsner, which is a full bodied lager; that’s my favourite with the pretzels – it’s nice and clean and crisp,” Jekschtat says. The pretzels are served with house-favourite, Cajun remoulade. Many thanks to Brewsters for sharing the recipe for us all to enjoy it at home. Brewsters' Cajun Remoulade Courtesy Brewsters

Brewsters

Brewsters Brewing Company first introduced their Bavarian pretzels in Calgary at sister restaurant, Beer Revolution, in 2008. An Edmonton location of Beer Revolution opened in 2013. “We wanted something that was very traditional and a very beer-friendly food,” says Mark Jekschtat, Brewsters’ executive chef. After they were a success at the craft beer and pizza bar, they were added to all Brewsters restaurants (six in Calgary and five in Edmonton).

Cajun Remoulade

Makes 2½ cups, with a shelf life of 5 days ¼ cup yellow onion, finely diced ¼ cup green onion, finely diced ¼ cup celery, finely diced 1 lemon, juice and zest 1 Tbs minced garlic 1 Tbs (15 mL) horseradish 2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard 1 Tbs (15 mL) yellow mustard 2 Tbs (30 mL) ketchup 2 Tbs fresh parsley, chopped ½ tsp sea salt ½ tsp black pepper, course ground ¼ tsp cayenne pepper 1 cup (240 mL) mayonnaise 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil

Place all ingredients into a food processor and blend for one minute until smooth. Keep refrigerated. 39


Celebrate Canada 150 Beers by DAVID NUTTALL

By the time you read this, you will be over your Canada Day hangover. However, since Canada 150 is a year-long celebration, there are still numerous occasions to honour Canada by enjoying one of its favourite beverages – Canadian beers.

This country has had a long and convoluted brewing history, entwined with various influences, governments, personalities and regulations; all of which have, and continue to, contribute to the state of brewing here. People often group Canada’s beers with the USA, which is an over simplification as Canada has been brewing commercially since the 1600s, and its two major breweries – Molson’s (1786) and Labatt’s (1847) predate the biggest breweries of the USA – Anheuser-Busch (1852), Miller (1855) and Coors (1873). Over the years, the big boys have participated in mergers, acquisitions,

40

and licensing agreements, which have blurred the lines between the two countries, but there has always been a difference in the beer produced within each market. Mass produced Canadian beer has maintained a modicum of respect in the world, and is usually held in higher regard than its American counterparts. Part of this is due to the more prevalent use of corn and rice adjuncts in the USA, but they also didn’t do themselves any favours in the world’s eyes by creating light beer in the 1970s, making their mainstream beers taste even more watery.


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raspberry wheat ale, as it has much more raspberry, a redder colour, and more alcohol (7% ABV) than most versions of this style. CSPC +790120, 750 mL bottle $10.00.

The Big Breweries dominated brewing in both countries through most of the 20th century, controlling as much as 95 percent of the market, with very little variety of beer. By 1980, the US had only 80 breweries controlled by 51 companies. Proportionately, Canada had many more per capita with 38 breweries, but 30 of them were Molson, Labatt or Carling O’Keefe (one each in every province, as per federal regulations of the time). It is this lack of choice that gave rise to the craft beer movement in the mid-1980s. While Alberta was at the vanguard of craft brewing with Big Rock opening in 1985, Canada as a whole evolved much slower than its southern neighbour. By 2000, the US had about 1,500 breweries, and Canada had only 83. However, within the next decade, Canada closed the gap by opening up 227 new breweries, while 500 opened in the US. Most of these breweries were in Ontario, Quebec, and British Columbia, as their provincial governments passed legislation that promoted the growth of small breweries. Alberta saw only a trickle of new breweries after Big Rock, until restrictions were loosened in 2013. What you are living through now is an explosion in this province – with more than 60 new licences given out by mid-2017. With Alberta now leading the charge, Canada presently boasts over 700 breweries, compared to about 5,300 in the US. Look around you. Almost all the new beer you now drink is coming from new breweries – mostly Albertan, followed by the rest of Canada, then American, and finally, from the rest of the world (mostly from Europe). Of Canada’s 400 years of brewing, this is indeed the golden age. So as you raise a glass to Canada 150, also give a toast to Canada’s brewers, new and old. Listed below are a few beers brewed specifically to celebrate Canada 150: 42

Moosehead Anniversary Ale

Coincidentally, New Brunswick’s Moosehead Brewery is also celebrating their 150th Anniversary too. This limited edition ale has much more going on than your standard Moosehead and is made with four hops and two malts from across Canada. CSPC +792194, 473 mL can, $3.00

Lighthouse 150 Heritage Ale

Victoria’s Lighthouse Brewery brewed this beer in honour of Canada’s lighthouse keepers- with a bit of maple, smoke, and rye. CSPC +793632, 650 mL bottle $11.50

Innis and Gunn Maple and Thistle Rye Ale

Scotland’s Innis and Gunn Brewery has often made a beer to celebrate Canada Day. Aged in barrels for 150 days, this salute to Canada 150 is a bottle-conditioned brew with both maple and thistle to celebrate the Canadian-Scottish connection. CSPC +788910, 500mL bottle $10.00

Mill Street Red Ensign

This is a salute to our first flag that flew for 97 years. Not your normal

Look also for Jasper Brewing Crisp Pil 150, Blindman Batch 150 Red + White IRA, Mt. Begbie Confederation 150 Maple Cream Ale, and one-offs from many local breweries such as Cold Garden, Bench Creek, and more.

Multipacks

Red Racer Nation

Surrey’s Central City brewed collaboration beers with twelve breweries – one from each province and two territories. Alberta’s contribution is a Berry Light Berliner Weiss brewed with Calgary’s Last Best Brewing that has raspberries and vanilla. CSPC 712098, $34

Big Rock Canada 150 Pack

Six beers brewed to represent a different region of Canada. A diverse group that includes an Oyster Stout brewed with East Coast oysters added to the boil. CSPC +791183, $17

Sleeman Beer Crate with 5514 Filtered Wheat Ale

The number represents the distance in kilometres from sea to shining sea. Made with 100% Canadian wheat; it is crisp and clean. CSPC +791045, 15 pack cans $31.00 Cheers to Canada 150!


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Making The Case: For American Wine by TOM FIRTH

Most wine produced in the United States comes from the state of California – which should be no surprise to most wine drinkers. What might be more surprising is that pretty well every state in the union is making wine, although not all states have vines growing. Aside from the Bear State, which produces about 85 percent of American still wine (2016), most familiar to Canadian aficionados will be Oregon and Washington State, with New York State’s wines making an impact too. America’s history on the world wine stage is one that was free of the constraints of old world traditions, yet grew from the efforts of their immigrant population, notably from the Mediterranean, where

wine was part of their culture, and was sure to be part of it in their new home. Prohibition generally halted things, though since its repeal, the United States’ “can-do” attitude, its generally wealthy status, and culture of innovation – helped too by California’s near-perfect conditions for agriculture and especially viticulture – means that some of the finest wines in the world come from the United States, and will for years to come.

Mer Soleil 2014 Reserve Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands, California A classic gem loved by those not afraid of some oak in their chardonnay. It’s ripe and honeyed, with plenty of cider apple and white blossom. Oak has become slightly more restrained in recent years, but it’s still tropical and buttery, a gem for any cuisine that wants a little oak. Roasted poultry anyone? Or perhaps even just a little freshly popped popcorn. CSPC +453142 about $35

Sans Liege Cotes du Coast 2014 Central Coast, California Limited in production to 17 barrels, this viognier-led blend is chased by 23 percent roussanne, 20 percent grenache, and 11 percent marsanne. Wildly tropical on the nose with lifted, prominent floral tones, peach and apples. Oak flavours add remarkable complexity without overwhelming the palate. Looking for something new or exciting in white? Try this. CSPC +772708 Around $27 on the shelf

Fox Run Vineyards 2013 “Kaiser Vineyard” Reserve Chardonnay Seneca Lake, New York State A clean and stylish example of the quality that can come from the Finger Lakes, look for apricot and apple fruits with spice and some matchstick aromas to start, while flavours are rich and textured with the right sort of balance for food or just a nice glass of wine. Bone in pork chops or even some Vietnamese cuisine… CSPC +757077 About $26-28 44


Truchard 2015 Roussanne Carneros, California

Long Meadow Ranch 2015 Farmstead Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California

Ironstone 2014 “Rous Vineyard” Reserve Zinfandel, Lodi, California

If you aren’t familiar with roussanne yet, I strongly suggest you remedy that. Tight and citrusy fruit aromas, with lime and a decidedly peachy style of perfume, on the nose give way to a sleek and tasty sip of wine with loads of mineral character. Lovely, lovely wine that could easily be paired with grilled shrimps, lobster tails, or roast chicken. CSPC +715000 $28

A simply stunning gem that I was thrilled to taste recently. A deeply layered and evocative nose evolves in the glass, and lead with blackberry fruits and earthy, farm-style undertones. Spending 11 months in neutral French oak, look for flavours of tea leaf, controlled fruits, and great tannin. Well-polished from start to finish – and it’s farmed organically too. CSPC +773276 $40

Sourced from 105 year-old vines, the wine in the glass is remarkably aromatic and bursting with perfumed blueberry and brambly fruits. Look for milk chocolate, cherry and plum too. Those 10 months in French oak soften the tannins, making this a barbecue favourite. CSPC +112250 about $38

Rose Rock 2014 Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

Louis M. Martini 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, California

Buena Vista Winery 2014 Zinfandel Sonoma County, California

Part of the Drouhin family’s holdings in Oregon, one should expect all the class and restraint French whites are often known for. Look for soft apple driven fruits with mild peach and pear notes following up. Highly enjoyable on the palate, and yes, it’s fresh, classy, and restrained. Serve lightly chilled, no food required. CSPC +784863 About $40

Like that classic, cabernet character, those cherry and cassis fruits, mild bell peppers, violets, graphite, and cedar? Well the Martini has it all. On the palate, softer tannins complement generous fruit along with vanilla bean and a little sweetness across the entire palate. A crowd-pleasing style of cabernet, making me think of burgers or sweet, smoked ribs…. CSPC +741062 $14

Man, I love good zinfandel, those brambly, wild berry fruits, spice, and cherry. Well balanced on the palate too with great tannins begging for a little protein, tight acids wanting a little bit of fat, and the right sort of fruit to make it tasty too. If you can’t tell, this would be great with some nice steaks simply done on the BBQ, or pepperoni pizza – delivered of course. CSPC +766297 $29

The Fableist 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon “373” Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, California

Heitz Cellars 2015 Chardonnay Napa Valley, California

Gramercy Cellars 2013 Syrah Columbia Valley, Washington State

With no malolactic fermentation and only about 20 percent new oak, get ready for a clean, modern, and tasty chardonnay. Loads of green apple style fruits with lemon, and a touch of pear on the nose. Palate-wise, in a nutshell, simply delicious – it’s crisp, textured, and lively. Pair with grilled seafood, or on its own lightly chilled. CSPC +700841 $47

Meaty, savoury, and spicy syrah with loads of cracked pepper and Saskatoon berry fruit on the nose, while on the palate, a beautiful example of what Columbia Valley quality can be like – with a densely layered flavour profile coupled with tight, age-worthy tannins. Ready to drink now or cellar a few years for a fine reward. CSPC +767911 Around $45-48

Wildly intense on the nose – rife with blackberry, plum and slightly wild fruits with a touch of mahogany, spice box, and cedar aromas. Fruit driven, but not at the expense of spice or some slightly earthy tannins, the overall balance and flavour profile should be a fine match for beef well-smoked, or some finger-licking ribs. CSPC +429860 around $34

45


September Spirits by TOM FIRTH with LINDA GARSON

While summer in southern Alberta often trickles into September – and if we are lucky, October – we love the warm days and long, slightly cooler evenings. The perfect sort of weather for a G&T, or even to start sipping on a little scotch as well – rocks optional. Collingwood Canadian Whisky Canada

What better way to finish off another great summer than by enjoying some spicy Canadian whisky? Hailing from Collingwood, Ontario, the nose is full of fiery heat, with Graham crackers, honey, and caramel, while flavours have a slightly maple finish, preceded by a mouth-filling citric fruitiness. Suitable for sipping or for mixing. CSPC+ 765420 About $35

XFour Bremner’s Blueberry Infused Vodka British Columbia

This artisanal, all-natural vodka is perfect for prolonging your summer. It’s a bold statement, and super blueberry-ish, as there’s a half-pound of fresh B.C. blueberries in each bottle (shake it before you pour). The vodka is quadruple distilled and filtered three times through charcoal, and you’re tasting blueberries all the way. I really enjoyed it as a “B.C. Mule”, over ice with lime juice and ginger beer – and more blueberries in the glass! CSPC +788976 $36

Compass Box Great King Street Artist’s Blend Scotch Whisky Scotland

Tom Collingwood

2 oz Collingwood Whisky 1.5 oz simple syrup 2 oz fresh lemon juice 2 oz soda water

Mix all ingredients except for soda in a highball glass with ice. Top with soda water and garnish with a lemon wedge. 46

Certainly a premium blended whisky, it’s clean, versatile, and calls to mind spice and cider apple, with a very light toffee nose. A blend of Lowland grain whisky and Highland malt, it’s unfiltered and has no added colouring, meaning you can enjoy the light vanilla, toasty, and salty caramel flavours the way they were meant to be. CSPC +746290 About $45

Park Gin, Banff Alberta

Although I rarely get to (over)indulge in gin, I love the stuff, all those intense aromatics, and the simplicity-nay-perfection of a gin and tonic on a nice day can’t be beat. Park’s gin utilizes a number of locally sourced botanicals from around Banff National Park, including spruce tips lending a small, but perfect difference to some other gins. Full, oily, and aromatic, bring on the G&T. CSPC +781550 About $48

Babička Original Wormwood Vodka Czechoslovakia

Pronounced Ba-bitch-Ka, this Czech vodka is infused with wormwood – much like wormwood’s most famous product – absinth. Wormwood, and its active ingredient thujone, have a long and storied history with some benefits found in natural remedies. The vodka itself has a mild citrus and herbal aroma, with flavours of caramel, wormwood (naturally), and anise. Would really lend itself to some citrusy cocktails for sure. CSPC +774131 About $26


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A Renaissance In The Making: Craft Cider by MARGAUX BURGESS

Does it seem like cider is everywhere all of sudden? You are not alone in thinking so â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and with good reason! While we have not reached the pint per day pre-prohibition consumption of those who lived in apple-growing regions, cider is one of the most dynamic beverages today with growth far outpacing beer and wine. This is a real benefit to those of us that love a refreshing, crisp and complex beverage with pure fruit flavour, as that is precisely what the crop of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s craft ciders has to offer. Cider has been made in some form for over 2000 years, with the most developed cultures of consumption found in England, Spain and France. Geographically speaking, these 48

three countries are rather close to one another, but the cider regions developed independently and offer three very different, yet equally traditional, styles. English-style cider is made from specific apple varieties - generally tart with thick skins. Cider apples are also on the small side so there is a higher skin to pulp ratio further guaranteeing a cider with tannic grip. Spanish cider is made from Spanish apples, specifically those from the Basque and Asturias regions in the north of Spain. These are complex,

funky and savoury options akin to sour beer. French cider comes mostly from the Normandy region, which is the home of bittersweet and sharp cider apples not found anywhere else. These are low alcohol, naturally sweet ciders, with the residual sugars balancing the tartness of the apples. The vast majority of ciders made here in Alberta and the Pacific Northwest are known as Americanâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;style or New World ciders. While their roots are firmly planted in the traditional realm, they do not have so much of the smoky, savoury flavours that are often found in French and English ciders, and they are not restricted to any one style.


Luckily for cider drinkers, experimentation is a hallmark, as there are an unending number of flavour profiles often highlighting quality local ingredients. One thing to look out for is to be sure you are drinking 100 percent fermented juice, and not one of the many mass-produced ciders that can be as little as 50 percent juice, more like coolers than cider. Well-made craft ciders are not so different from good wine and beer in that they must be well balanced with a noticeable flavour profile working in tandem with fresh acidity, tannic grip and a wellintegrated level of sweetness. Cider is extremely versatile and can be excellent for food pairing. Dry and off-dry styles are particularly successful with a wide range of dishes. Add some cider to the Thanksgiving table and see how well it works with the diverse selection of flavours! It is also completely gluten-free so is a safe option for those who are gluten intolerant.

©2016 Palm Bay International Boca Raton, Fl.

With a unique flavour profile, cider complements rather than competing with the enjoyment of beer and wine. More and more options are available to experiment with, and we have an abundance of choice. There has been no better time to discover cider!

Rogue Ales Fruit Salad Cider Oregon, USA

Bright magenta from cherries and plums (and other fruit) grown on the Rogue Ales farm, this off dry cider is fruity, tart and fresh. It is an especially delicious fruit salad! CSPC +772462, 650mL $15

FinnRiver Oak and Apple Cider, Washington, USA

Left Field Cider ‘Big Dry' British Columbia, Canada

A blend of tart cider apples and fruity dessert apples, this is a true dry cider with a little tannic grip. Made in the Okanagan by a cider maker who apprenticed in England. Bright and crisp-like biting into an apple fresh off the tree. CSPC +52274, 500mL $10

With 12 to 16 weeks in rye barrels from High West Distillery, this cider from organic Washington State apples deftly balances the wood notes and crisp apple profile. Semi-dry with lots of apple character, a little spiciness and much complexity. CSPC +780319, 350mL $13.50

Scenic Road Cider British Columbia, Canada

Reverend Nat’s Sacrilege Sour Cherry, Oregon, USA

Alberta’s first cidery, Uncommon Cider, is making small-batch cider in Calgary from a mix of Alberta and B.C. apples. Bright and dry with fresh apple character and subtle citrus notes, this is an enjoyable and homegrown option. CSPC +787249, 500mL $10

Off-dry option made with tart Granny Smith apples, sour cherry and just a touch of ghost pepper. A cider that is exotic, slightly sweet and spicy unlike any other. Delicious. CSPC +787309, 500mL $12

Passionate about wine and education Margaux combines the two whenever possible holding the WSET Diploma and being a Certified Sherry Educator while continually researching the great wine regions of the world!

Traditional in style, this is a dry cider with a clean and pure apple flavour. Light, crisp and refreshing. CSPC +958082, 500 mL $10

Uncommon Dry Craft Cider Alberta, Canada


Open That Bottle story and photography by LINDA GARSON

“As far as being a chef goes, I just liked to eat! But everyone thought it was a good idea as they didn’t know what else to do with me,” says Chef Paul Rogalski of Calgary’s Rouge Restaurant. Food was always a large part of Rogalski’s family; his maternal grandfather part-owned Calgary's Bonton Meat Market, and his father’s Ukrainian parents fed the family with the produce they grew. By grade 10 Rogalski had decided to be a chef, taking three years of food science at Sir Winston Churchill High School, and working at Fairmont Banff Springs in the summer. “I was hooked, and started working at the Palliser Hotel,” says the chef. “Before I knew it I was running the kitchen at the Boulevard by myself, and I hadn’t even gone to SAIT yet.” Rogalski continued to work at the Palliser throughout his culinary course at SAIT and beyond, until being offered a job at La Chaumiere. “I didn’t really know much,” he says. “But when I

talked to the executive sous chef, he said, ‘Give me your notice right now! Go learn how to cook and don’t let anyone talk you out of it!’” Not long after, the chef resigned and he was promoted. “So here I am, I’m a 22 year-old kid and executive chef of La Chaumiere restaurant, one of the top two restaurants in town,” Rogalski says. His cooking epiphany came during a week with John Ash at Fetzer Valley Oaks, trying a fig still warm from the sun. “Right there my focus went from taking food and manipulating it to try and make it into something that it’s not, to celebrating the goodness that it is at that precise moment when its at its best – and it changed how I thought,” he explains. Rogalski wanted international experience, so he and his wife went to Singapore, where as a student his team had competed at the World Cooking Championships and won gold. However, aged 25, he was legally too young to work there, so he returned to work at Delta Bow Valley, followed by a stint in Grand Cayman, and finally back at La Chaumiere where he met business partner Olivier Reynaud, who had just emigrated from France. They invested everything in Rouge, but success took time. “Then in 2010 the San Pellegrino thing happened (Rouge was named as one of their 100 World’s Best Restaurants) and it changed everything overnight,” he says. “It changed the world.” So what is Chef Rogalski’s special bottle? “I actually don’t have an inventory of wine at home,” he says. “If we have multi cases, we seem to invite over multi people to enjoy them with us, so

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nothing sticks around very long in our house,” he adds. On the table is a bottle of 2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, a gift from an employee who had to leave the kitchen to try working front of house, where it’s a lot less dangerous. “He had tons of aptitude; I really liked him a lot, and he asked if I would endorse him for a program at SAIT,” explains the chef. “It was a no brainer for me, I said ‘hell yes, you’re awesome’ and I wrote a letter of recommendation. This guy rocks, and he sent me a very sincere thank you. That’s so thoughtful – a thank you for something that I didn’t need to be thanked for.” And when will he open the bottle? Rogalski was recovering from a bout of pneumonia when we chatted, but answered, “To share it with somebody who enjoys wine is the big thing, and good conversation and good wine is wonderful all the time, but I do find it’s something to be enjoyed with friends. Today would have been a perfect day – damned pneumonia!”


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YOU’LL COME UP WITH YOUR OWN WORDS ONCE YOU’VE DISCOVERED THE NEW MURRIETA’S EXPERIENCE That’s because your eyes and your taste buds will feast upon a whole new vibe at our downtown location. From our revamped interior decor to our new menu, we’ve listened to our customers and we’ve responded. As one of the top restaurants in town, we take great pride in serving our West Coast fare with a wine selection that’s unmatched. When it comes to describing great taste, we’ll take the words right out of your mouth. CALGARY 200 – 808 1st Street SW Stephen Avenue Mall 403.269.7707

CANMORE 200 - 737 Main Street Canmore, Alberta 403.609.9500

FIND US murrietas.ca

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Culinaire #6:4 (September 2017)  

Alberta's freshest food and beverage magazine for dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails. And the results of Alberta's Fi...

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