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ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 5 NO.9 :: MARCH 2017

The

WIDE WORLD ofWHISKY ALBERTA CRAFT BREWERIES: A LOOK AHEAD

Barley 6 Ways | Whisky Cocktails | 11 Signature Pub Dishes


dove l’italiano è vivo: where Italian comes alive

Westend vivo 18352 Lessard Road | 780-756-7710 now open – Downtown

vivo ristorante, pizzeria and taverna

10505 106 Street | 587-525-7500 www.vivoristorante.ca


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37 VOLUME 5 / ISSUE #9 MARCH 2017

Features 12 Alberta’s Booming Barley Industry Throughout the province where the farm-to-table initiative is more than a trend, barley is back in fashion in our food – and drinks! by Karen Miller

21 Find Your Best Place To Drink Whisky Where to go for your favourite dram? Our light-hearted quiz will help point you in the direction of Alberta whisky bars to suit your style by Twyla Campbell and Linda Garson

16 11 Signature Alberta Pub Dishes …that always hit the spot! by Dan Clapson and Phil Wilson

34 Pink Boots in the Brewhouse Celebrating International Women’s Day – with beer! by Kirk Bodnar

24 Six Ways with Barley Sweet and savoury ways with Alberta’s favourite grain by Mallory Frayn

26 Food For A Backcountry Day Fuelling for an action-packed day by Robyn MacLean

32 From Grain to Glass: The dynamic world of whisky cocktails by Linda Garson and Madeleine MacDonald

37 Alberta Craft Breweries: A look ahead for 2017 by David Nuttall

40 Making the Case Getting high on acid by Tom Firth

28 The Wide World of Whisky There are more than 1,000 different whisky bottles on liquor stores shelves across our province. So how do you choose? We’ll help you begin! by Andrew Ferguson

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

8

Off The Menu – NOtaBLE’s Rotisserie Chicken Greek Salad

10

Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

14

Soup Kitchen

18

Step-By-Step: Beer Bread

42 Open That Bottle Manjit Minhas, of Minhas Breweries, Distilleries and Wineries by Linda Garson

On the Cover: Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for her simple, yet stunning, shot of whisky adorning this month’s front cover, and to Hayden Block for providing the shot of whisky.

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Letter From The Editor For us, it also means spring is nigh – with the meteorological start on March 1, although we’ll have to wait until March 20 for spring to start astronomically - and autumn in the Southern Hemisphere. That means it's harvest time down under for some of my favourite wine regions in Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina and South Africa.

It’s March! I’m sure that will have a different meaning for each of us depending on the path we’ve chosen for ourselves, but what does it mean to you? March is named for the Roman god of war, Mars, who was also the guardian of agriculture. His month, Martius, was the beginning of the season for both farming and warfare – can we just focus on the farming aspect please?

And there’s so much more happening this month. March is National Celery Month, National Frozen Food Month, and National Peanut Month – but it’s also National Nutrition Month, an annual event organised by the Dieticians of Canada to encourage us to pay attention to our food and beverage intake. In our March issue, we’ve chosen to eschew National Canadian Bacon Day on March 3, National Corndog Day on

March 22, and National Chips & Dip Day on March 23, and focus on St. Patrick’s Day on March 17 and International Whisky Day on March 23rd – far more Culinaire’s style! But what is the common factor in these two days – barley! And what are the prairies famous for? Barley! So we have a barley focus too this month, as 90 percent of Canadian barley is grown here in the west. Other dates to note this month are Earth Hour on March 25th, when the World Wide Fund for Nature encourages everyone to turn off their lights from 8:30 to 9:30 pm as a symbol of your commitment to the planet, and my least favourite day of the year – March 12th when we forfeit an hour of sleep! Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief


ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director: Tim Mitchell 403-604-7478 tim@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Creative Director: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor: Anna Brooks web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Kirk Bodnar Twyla Campbell Dan Clapson Andrew Ferguson Mallory Frayn Dong Kim Renee Kohlman Madeleine MacDonald Robyn MacLean Karen Miller David Nuttall Leilani Olynik Phil Wilson

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Kirk Bodnar

Kirk Bodnar’s interest in beer would likely be described as a passion by some, and perhaps an obsession by others. The love of great beer has led Kirk to become a Certified CICERONE®, BJCP beer judge, beer consultant, history teacher, avid home brewer, and Education Director for CAMRA Alberta. Most importantly, he is the father to two future beer geeks (hopefully). Follow him on Twitter @beersnsuch.

< Andrew Ferguson

Born and raised in Calgary, Andrew has been working at Kensington Wine Market for more than 15 years, and in 2015 he became the owner. He built Kensington Wine Market’s reputation as one of the world’s best whisky stores, achieving second place for Retailer of the Year in Whisky Magazine’s Icons of Whisky Award in both 2015 and 2016. Andrew was also the first Canadian retailer to be inducted into the Keepers of the Quaich.

< Madeleine MacDonald

Madeleine has been working in the restaurant industry for over ten years, both back and front of house, before deciding to settle down behind the bar. She is currently the Beverage Director at Model Milk, Model Citizen and Pigeonhole. Madeleine has had many of her cocktails published nationwide; she was the winner of Mademoiselle Cointreau in 2014, and has participated in many other cocktail competitions throughout Calgary.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.


Salutes... Congratulations to Chef Jinhee Lee, of Foreign Concept in Calgary, for sweeping the board at the 11th annual Canadian Culinary Championships in Kelowna. Chef Lee won gold as well as the People’s Choice for the Mystery Wine Competition, and Edmonton‘s Prairie Noodle Shop, Chef Eric Hanson, took home bronze! Way to go Alberta! Congrats too to Great Events Group Corporate Chef Daryl Kerr

honoured for inspiring passion for his craft, his unending pursuit of creativity, and commitment to promoting the local food industry in Calgary.

Canadian Culinary Championships

who has been awarded “Chef of the Year” by the Calgary Academy of Chefs and Cooks, a branch of the Canadian Culinary Federation. Chef Kerr is

And to Anne Sellmer, owner of Calgary’s newest chocolate company, cōchu chocolatier, who has been awarded “6-Star Grand Master Chocolatier” by the International Chocolate Salon in San Francisco. Sellmer was the only Canadian to receive the top 6-star rating, and one of only 10 in North America!

and Shout Outs... It’s all happening in Edmonton – so many great new openings!

Bundok

Congratulations to chef/owner Ryan Hotchkiss on the opening of Bundok, in Fox One Tower on 104th Street. This is a cosy, yet contemporary space in dark blues with copper accents, and there’s a chef’s counter for walk-ins. Expect modern Canadian cuisine, a Canadian and French inspired wine list, and a classic cocktail program with in housemade sodas and bitters. The fried chicken skins with honey mustard and thyme are a must! And to vivo ristorante, on opening their second location on 106 Street in the Ice District. True to their vision of sharing food and conversation over traditional family style dining, the new location includes a pizzeria under the direction of Master Pizzaiolo, Carlo Raillo, a taverna, and more private dining space too. 6

Ingredients change frequently at vivo, but the service and the traditional Italian Piatti (courses) remain as good as ever. Also in the Ice District, we welcome Baijiu (“bye Joe” meaning “booze” in Chinese). With a focus on craft cocktails and Asian sharing plates, this dark and intimate cocktail bar/eatery is a blend of modern chic and old world, with a 25-seat bar, hot pink neon low lighting, and old school hip hop. We’re coming back for more of Chef Alexei Boldireff’s Devilled Tea Eggs, Korean Brussels Sprouts, and XO squid noodles! And now two new distilleries have opened in Edmonton! The Hansen family were known for their moonshine during the 1930s, and continued to make small batches for special occasions. Now the recipe has passed to the great grandchildren who, 85 years later, have opened The Hansen Distillery on 111th Avenue NW at 174th Street. Strathcona Spirits founder, Adam Smith, ran an underground music venue located just off Whyte Avenue, which he has now turned into Old Strathcona’s first distillery, producing small batch craft vodka and gin using traditional methods and local ingredients.

Further north, Yukon Brewing are celebrating their 20th anniversary by releasing one special 650 mL bomber each month. Look for six forgotten favourites and six brand new brews in their “20th Anniversary – Canada 150 Series” of Limited Edition brews.

Pad Thai

And in Calgary, Thai Sa On brings us the new Pad Thai restaurant on 4th Street NW at 30th Avenue. You’re welcomed here by fragrant smells, rich red and black décor – and elephants! Patcharin Smith (ex Glencoe Club) serves up her original dishes from north of Bangkok – authentic recipes that have been passed down through her family and recreated with her own flair. There are over 100 choices, but don’t miss the shrimp rolls with red curry, pandan chicken with banana peppers, and of course the Pad Thai!


THE PERFECT PAIR

Join our Brand Ambassador & Executive Chef as they walk you through a unique beer pairing in our cellar. Visit THEGRIZZLYPAW.COM for more information.

@thegrizzlypaw 310 OLD CANMORE ROAD


Off The Menu

NOtaBLE's Rotisserie Chicken Greek Salad by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Some restaurant dishes are absolute classics, like the rotisserie chicken at NOtaBLE, so we were thrilled to hear from a reader asking for the Greek salad recipe where it’s the star. Many thanks to Chef Noble for sharing his secrets with Culinaire! NOtaBLE’s Rotisserie Chicken Greek Salad Serves 4-6

2 large chicken breasts* (320-420 g) 1 bell pepper, deseeded and cut into large dice 1 large English cucumber, cut into large dice 8 cocktail tomatoes (golf ball size) ½ red onion, sliced into slivers 450 g mixed greens 200 g feta cheese

1. Grill chicken breast to 165º F and once cooked, allow to cool to room temperature. Pull the meat to bite size pieces.

2. In a large bowl, add all your

ingredients except the feta cheese.

3. Mix with enough of the dressing below to coat the salad.

4. Place in to a serving platter or

into individual bowls and garnish with crumbled feta.

Provençal Dressing

Quantities can be easily halved or quartered 100 g shallots, minced 25 g garlic, minced 20 g parsley leaves 160 g Kalamata olives 150 g grainy mustard 1 lemon, zested and juiced ¾ cup (180 mL) red wine vinegar ¾ cup (180 mL) tomato juice 1¼ cups (300 mL) vegetable oil 2 cups (500 mL) olive oil

1. Mix all the ingredients apart from the two oils in a food processer until smooth.

2. Slowly incorporate oils into puree until combined.

3. Let food processer run for 5 minutes to completely emulsify the dressing. The good news is that you can even grab one of NOtaBLE’s free-range Happy Chickens to go – how easy is that! *

If there’s a dish in a local restaurant that you’d love to make, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us,and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you!

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Chefs' Tips Tricks!

Cooking with Brown Spirits by LEILANI OLYNIK photography by DONG KIM and INGRID KUENZEL

It’s a sad, sad day when brown spirits are neglected in the kitchen. The smoky caramel notes in a bourbon or toasted fruit loaf of a good American whiskey lend themselves effortlessly to being paired with meats, kicking up sauces or making desserts that knock your socks off. “The smokiness or sweetness of vanilla flavours in the liquor leads to some great combos.”

Starbelly, Calgary

Cooking with spirits really boils down to keeping it simple and allowing the flavours to shine through. Generally, most of the alcohol content is cooked off, but what does remain will add a certain snap and brightness to your dish. Chef McGreevy says he enjoys experimenting with using dark spirits in their raw form, like making a vinaigrette to shine boldly on the plate.

“When I’m looking to pair game meats, such as venison or elk with brown liquors, I tend to play off the subtleties of the sauce,” Chef McGreevy explains.

“When using bourbon or brown liquors in raw form, I always use small increments and adjust seasoning accordingly,” he says.

Chef Paul McGreevy

Chef Paul McGreevy

Venison Carpaccio with Bourbon Dressing

Serves 4 Total prep and cook time 30 minutes 2 Tbs (30 mL) Tin Cup American Whiskey 2 Tbs (30 mL) apple cider vinegar 2 Tbs (30 mL) maple syrup 1 Tbs minced shallot ½ tip finely chopped fresh thyme 1 free-range egg yolk ¹/³ cup plus 2 Tbs (110 mL) grapeseed oil 200 g thinly sliced venison loin 2 heads watercress, clipped and washed ¼ cup pickled cherries, chopped ¼ cup toasted pumpkin seeds 100 g Sylvan Star Grizzly Gouda To taste salt and pepper

1. Combine the first 6 ingredients into a bowl, and whisk together.

2. While whisking, slowly pour the oil into the bowl until incorporated.

3. Season with salt and pepper, then place into a squeeze bottle.

4. Lay thinly sliced venison loin onto

a plate or platter. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Drizzle half of the bourbon dressing on top of the venison.

6. Spread the watercress over top, and then sprinkle the cherries and pumpkin seeds.

7. Drizzle a bit more of the dressing over top. Then use a rasp to grate the gouda over top. 10


Chef Serge Jost

Chef Serge Jost

Fairmont MacDonald, Edmonton From High Tea to harvesting honey and everything in between, Chef Serge Jost is no stranger to impressing people.

To strike a perfect balance, he recommends cooking the spirit before adding it to a dessert.

If you wouldn’t drink with it, you shouldn’t cook with it. Chef Jost hazards against choosing “too cheap a spirit,” and says most of the time a bad taste will appear before a good one. “You don’t need to use the most expensive, but always go with a decent product,” Jost says.

“You want to have the flavour of the spirit, but not that strong alcohol taste, which is unpleasant,” he says. “Just boil the spirit so the alcohol will evaporate. You can add a little raw spirit to the dessert to have a little of the alcohol taste. It usually gives a kick, but it’s not aggressive on the palate.”

5. Once done, remove from the oven

and let cool on a wire rack. Leave in the fridge overnight to set.

6. Take the brownie out of the tray and

remove the parchment paper. Have the flattest side down on the chopping board. Begin to square up the sides and then cut into rectangles in 2 cm wide strips. Whiskey Ganache

Total prep and cook time 10 minutes

Brownie with Warm Whiskey Ganache and Yuzu Mousse

Serves Plenty Total prep and cook time 90 minutes 240 g dark chocolate 150 g unsalted butter 2 free-range eggs 175 g caster sugar 2 drops vanilla extract 20 g 70% cocoa powder, sieved 1 Tsp (5g) baking powder 60 g plain flour, sieved 100 g walnuts, roasted and lightly chopped 100 g 39% milk chocolate, roughly chopped Icing sugar for dusting

1. Preheat oven to 350º F. Line a deepsided baking tray with parchment paper.

2. Melt the dark chocolate and butter

in bowl over a bain-marie. Stir constantly until they have melted completely; take the bowl off the bain-marie and leave to cool slightly.

2½ cups (600 mL) cream 500 g 70% dark chocolate ½ cup plus ¹ ⅓ /³ cup (200 mL) Jack Daniels

1. Melt cream and chocolate on a double boiler.

2. Burn off the alcohol from ¾ cup (180 mL) whiskey, reserving 4 tsp (20 mL) to add later.

3. Whisk the eggs and sugar in an electric 3. Once the cream and chocolate forms mixer until doubled in size. Once the egg mixture is aerated, fold in the melted butter and chocolate mix, being careful not to knock the air out of the mix.

4. Add the rest of the ingredients and

pour into your baking tray. Place in the oven. It should take approximately 30 minutes for the brownies to cook; check by pushing a cocktail stick into the tray. The stick should come out slightly wet.

a homogenous mixture, add the whiskey and finish off with the raw whiskey for extra flavour. See culinairemagazine.ca for the Yuzu Mousse recipe to accompany Chef Jost’s brownies.

Wife, mother, and food lover, Leilani has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. She can be found buzzing around the Calgary Farmers’ Market as their Marketing Coordinator. 11


Alberta’s Booming Barley Industry by KAREN MILLER

Courtesy Eau Claire Distillery

Chocolate is classy, so are champagne and oysters, but barley? Most likely the only barley you grew up eating was in soup at grandma’s. But now barley has come of age, especially in this province, and has become a culinary highlight for local chefs and distilleries. Throughout the province where the farm to table initiative is more than a trend, barley is picking up the slack. Popular on many menus, barley has a distinct flavour profile and is an ever-versatile grain. And why not? It is practically perfect, a complex carbohydrate full of a myriad of health benefits and grown right here in Alberta. Aside from being a nutritional powerhouse, it has a wonderful flavour and texture — nutty and rich. It also makes an excellent replacement for 12

other grains, adding some substance to salads, and of course as part of the “let’s make risotto with anything else but rice” trend. Where have you been all my life, barley?

Barley is Canada’s fourth largest crop, with 90 percent grown in western Canada Barley is an ancient grain with uses dating back to ancient Israelite, Egyptian and Greek cultures. It has been used as currency and as a standard of measurement. While grown all over

the world, it is Canada’s fourth largest crop, with 90 percent grown in western Canada. Our cool winters and dry prairie air provide optimal growing and storage conditions for resisting disease and maintaining quality standards. As a result, Canada, and specifically farmers in Alberta, have been at the forefront of research and development of barley production and innovation in farming. This is partly because of the economic significance (Canada is the second largest malting barley and


malt exporter in the world) and partly because of barley's usefulness in food and beverages — mostly beer! Seriously, beer making is one of the first cottage industries known to man. Barley is harvested and then goes through the malting process. Grains are soaked so they sprout, spread out to dry and then heated, resulting in malt barley. Beer uses the malt barley, which is responsible for the colour, aroma and foam in our drinks. Until recently, the only way to sell barley was through the Canadian Wheat Board, and malt barley used by brewers was obtained from malting companies in bulk. Eau Claire Distillery has set out to change this, and become a big part of the “branding” of Alberta-grown barley. The distillery considers their barley to be the best in the world, and it was a natural progression to create Alberta’s first single malt whisky. With a background in beer and a passion for traditional horse farming, the distiller uses Alberta barley in their premium spirits. The barley is planted and harvested with teams of horses and Alberta cowboys (yee-haw!) on select acreages across the province; that allows for the nuances of the malt to be traced back to the land where the grain was grown, much like the notion of “terroir” is recognized in wine production. After that, the malt is further distilled to create the spirit. Not just unique to Alberta, Eau Claire Distillery is the only distillery in North America with its own horse farming operations. Being in control of the whole process, they have created the ultimate “farm to glass” experience with their craft spirits. So what could be classier than sipping on the spirit of your choice made with Alberta barley based on traditions rooted in this province, this country, maybe even with a cowboy? I’m in for more barley in my food and drink!

Health and nutrition: Barley contains protein, soluble and insoluble fibres, healthy fatty acids, B vitamins, iron, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, manganese, zinc and antioxidants (great for immune and anti-inflammatory disorders). It does contain gluten, but is low on the glycemic index (the lowest of any grain). For an in-depth nutritional guide and outline of health benefits, visit whfoods.org

Barley does contain gluten, but is low on the glycemic indexc

Cooking with barley: Dehulled barley has the inedible outer layers removed. Pearl barley is steam processed (pearling) to remove the outer layers as well as some of the bran layer; processed but still containing fibre. Pot barley is also pearled, but most of the bran and germ layers remain. Both can be cooked very much like other grains and made into flakes or flour. For a great selection of recipes visit GoBarley: gobarley.com/recipe and the cookbook Go Barley: Modern Recipes for an Ancient Grain by Pat Ingrid and Linda Whitworth. To taste the farm to glass experience, or participate in the annual spring planting this May, contact Eau Claire Distillery, 403-933-5408, eauclairedistillery.ca

Karen Miller is a former lawyer who got on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon earlier than most and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.

UPCOMING EVENING EVENTS

DINNER & A MOVIE MARCH 7 | MARCH 21 | APRIL 4 | APRIL 19 Enjoy a three-course movie-themed meal at the Selkirk Grille followed by the film in Gasoline Alley Museum $42.95 +GST / person • Movie Only $8 +GST / person Menu and movie selections can be found at HeritagePark.ca

“HANDCRAFTED” A KICK OFF TO ST. PATRICK’S DAY Join us Thursday, March 16 for a Big Rock Brewmaster’s Dinner with special guest Ashley MacIsaac! Tickets $119 +GST / person at HeritagePark.ca Presented by Heritage Park and Big Rock Brewery

HeritageParkYYC


Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON and LINDA GARSON

March can be a tricky month in Alberta. One day it’s fifteen degrees and you’re dusting off your shorts, the next day you’re waking up to a blizzard and need to shovel your car out of a pile of snow. Soup doesn’t necessarily solve the problem of fluctuating weather patterns, but it’s easier to not care about what’s going on outside when you’re spooning into a big, delicious bowl of it.

Here are two tasty recipes to try out this month when you’re looking for something simple for dinner.

1. Heat oil in a large pot on

cool, and discard bay leaf. When cool, remove meat from leg bone and chop into bite-size pieces.

Smoked Goose and Lentil Soup Serves 5-6 Total prep and cook time 1 hour

It is amazing the amount of flavour a small portion of smoked meat can impart to a soup like this. You’ll wonder why you’ve never tried it before! 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced 4 cups (1 L) water 6 cups (1.5 L) chicken broth 1 smoked goose leg – a smoked duck breast or turkey leg would work just as well 3 Tbs (15 mL) tomato paste 1 bay leaf 1 tsp turmeric 2 carrots, halved and ½ cm sliced 2 celery stalks, ½ cm sliced 4 white potatoes, diced 2 cups chopped green cabbage (approximately ¼ head of cabbage) 1 cup whole green lentils 1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar To taste salt and pepper

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medium-high heat. Add garlic and onions and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the next six ingredients to the

4. Return meat to pot along with

pot. Once pot is simmering, cover and reduce to medium heat. Let cook for 30 minutes.

remaining ingredients. Let soup simmer, uncovered until the lentils have cooked through, approximately 18-20 minutes.

3. Remove smoked goose leg (or

5. Season to taste with salt and

duck/turkey) from pot, set aside to

pepper and serve.


Quick Beef and Barley Soup Courtesy Gibson & Smith Photography

Serves 5-6 Total prep and cook time 30 minutes

While we’re talking barley this month, Canada Beef have let us have their recipe for this super-quick and easy, hearty soup that’s just perfect for those weekday dinners.

1. Heat vegetable oil in a large pot.

2 tsp (10 mL) vegetable oil 1 small onion, diced 1 large clove garlic, minced 1 medium carrot, sliced 1 celery stalk, sliced Pinch dried thyme leaves To taste salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tsp (10 mL) tomato paste ½ cup pearl barley 2 ²/³ cups (650 mL) beef broth 2 cups (500 mL) water 1 can (398 mL) diced stewed tomatoes 2 cups cubed cooked roast beef

2. Add tomato paste, stirring to

Add onion, garlic, carrot, celery, thyme, salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat to soften, about 2 minutes. coat vegetables. Add barley, beef broth, water and stewed tomatoes. Bring to boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until barley is tender, about 15 minutes.

3. Add cooked beef and heat through for about 2 minutes.

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside

RESERVE

ON OPEN TABLE 403-570-0133 19489 SETON CRESCENT SE

STARBELLY.CA


Signature Alberta Pub Dishes by DAN CLAPSON and PHIL WILSON photography by DONG KIM and INGRID KUENZEL

As nice as it is to enjoy an upscale meal at a restaurant complete with all of the microgreen garnishes, aioli dots and crumbles, sometimes a simple plate of pub fare can be just as fulfilling.

Calgary

Kensington Pub – Sausage Rolls

For decades, this Kensington institution has been a go-to for many. The atmosphere of the century-old hometurned-pub lends itself to comfort food. What better way to be comforted than with a platter of warm, house-made sausage rolled in puff pastry with tangy beer mustard on the side?

10A Street NW, 403-270-4505 Here are 11 pub dishes from 207 kensingtonpub.com Calgary and Edmonton Local – Baja Fish Tacos that always hit the spot!

(locations in Edmonton and Calgary) Head into this dimly lit, but lively pub on Stephen Avenue in the early evenings to find it full of downtown workers cheers-ing to the end of a day at work. Golden, beer-battered chunks of fish are nestled into a warm flour tortilla with finely shaved cabbage and a fresh

pico de gallo. During the pub’s happy hour (3-6 p.m. daily), they are only $2 each. Who doesn’t love a good bargain? Multiple locations, Localpubliceatery.com

Pig and Duke – Pig Knuckles

These amped up, meaty pork ribs are a perfect complement to a big pint of craft beer at this popular local pub. They can come in one of two ways: in their signature smoky barbecue sauce or tossed in the Lowden family secret dry rub recipe with chipotle aioli. Personally, I’d go with the latter. 1312 12 Avenue SW, 403-966-2244 pigandduke.com

Oak Tree Tavern – Spicy Tuna Poppers

Probably the least conventional of all the dishes here, these tempura-battered tuna sushi rolls served up with a spicy wasabi aioli and pickled ginger are addicting. They’re great for sharing with friends even if you don’t want to after the first bite. 124 10 Street NW, 403-270-3347 oaktreetavern.ca

Oak Tree Tavern 16


Ship and Anchor – Ship Burger

Any ship regular will confirm that there never is a bad time of day to enjoy the pub’s namesake burger that is fairly nofrills and extremely reasonably priced. $9 will get you a grass-fed beef patty with the regular fixings and a side of fries. For an extra couple of dollars, you can add mushrooms, cheddar, and bacon – which is still one heck of a deal! 534 17 Avenue SW, 403-245-3333 shipandanchor.com

The Unicorn

The Unicorn – Brothers Fried Pepperoni With a hefty amount of East Coastborn folks living in Calgary, it’s nice to see an establishment pay homage to a classic dish from out east. Slices of Brothers (a famous Halifax sausage maker) spicy pepperoni are fried until crispy, and then served with honey mustard sauce for dipping. If you really want to indulge, order some garlic fingers too — another east coast pub staple!

plays off each other perfectly. Pair it with some fries and jalapeno mayo for dipping, upgrade to poutine with local cheese curds, or try Next Act’s surprisingly excellent house salad. Standing ovations accepted. 8224 104 Street, 780-433-9345 Nextactpub.com

Daravara – Smoked Brisket Hash

Edmonton is home to an increasing number of barbecue joints, but this unpretentious pub on 124 Street might have the best brisket in town. Daravara’s brunch hash is loaded with a generous portion of smoky chopped brisket, endless hash browns, melted cheddar, and a little crunchy shredded red cabbage. 10713 124 Street, 587-520-4980 facebook.com/ Daravara-1451473571748064

O’Byrne’s Irish Pub – Traditional Fish & Chips

10616 82 Avenue, 780-414-6766 Obyrnes.com

Otto Food and Drink – The Otto Dog with fries Is Otto technically a pub? Well, they have a great selection of Alberta beers, a bar, and a menu almost exclusively of craft sausages from local charcuterie wizard Steve Furgiuele of Fuge Fine Meats, so let’s go with it. All the sausages here are fantastic, but the Otto dog, a bratwurst stuffed with Sylvan Star Gouda, is the one link to rule them all. Pair it with Otto’s fries, which are finished in garlic and butter, and your sausage party is complete. 11405 95 Street, 780-477-6244 facebook.com/ottofoodanddrink

Traditional pubs immediately bring to mind menu classics like Shepherd’s Pie, Irish Stew, and of course, great fish and chips. One of the best fish and chips can be found at O’Byrne’s Irish pub in Old Strathcona, where they’ve been serving their secret recipe beer battered cod since 1998. The batter is light and crispy, providing a great contrast to the generous portion

Provincial Pub

Provincial Pub – Duck Poutine

223 8 Avenue SW, 403-265-3665 superpub.ca

Pubs often put their own spin on this iconic Quebec dish with debatable success. But Provincial Pub’s addition of confit duck works, and the intensely flavoured house gravy keeps your tastebuds guessing with the slight hint of barbecue. This is solid pub food in an area of the city not generally known for its eats.

Edmonton

Next Act Pub – PB&J Burger

The Next Act is famously known as the local artists’ watering hole, and also for their outstanding pub food. And there’s no need to look further than their mouth-watering PB&J Burger to prove it. Topped with peanut butter and house-made bacon jam, the combination of creamy and salty

of tender and flakey fish inside, and O’Byrne’s authentic chips are the perfect pairing. The house tartar sauce is plentiful enough for dipping chips too, so let’s raise a pint to that.

#160 – 4211 106 Street 780-760-1937, Provincialpub.ca Next Act Pub 17


One-Bowl Beer And Cheese Bread: An Easy-To-Make Loaf, Thanks To A Bottle Of Beer story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

If you’re like me, you love a good slice of bread. Slathered with butter, even better. I’m also more likely to hit up my favourite bakeries for their impeccable loaves of all things gluten than to bake bread at home.

I know I’m not the only one just a little intimidated by yeast, kneading, proofing… that whole shebang. But, I’ve recently discovered the wonders of beer bread. And by wonders, I mean the yeasty taste and texture of a risen loaf, without exerting any great effort whatsoever. And all of that magic takes place within one bowl. No stand-mixer, or dough hook required! The most important part of a good beer bread is, of course, the beer. While you might be tempted to hit up your favourite microbrewery for a growler of their finest ale, go ahead, but you’d be best to sip it than bake with it. In other

words, you don’t need a super fancy beer for this bread, it’s best to stay on the side of lager or light beer. If you find yourself with a lone can or two of light beer in the back of your fridge, that would be just fine. Not a big beer drinker myself, the chance of finding lone cans of lager in my fridge are next to zero, so I just hit up my nearest and dearest liquor store. I picked up a can of Stella Artois, but anything pale will work. It’s best to stay away from the dark, bitter beers, as they will cast a dark, bitter taste upon the bread, and you don’t want that. Assembling the bread takes mere minutes. Preheat your oven to 375º F. Stir together the dry ingredients and pour in the beer.

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One-Bowl Beer and Cheese Bread Makes 1 large loaf

Canola oil, for greasing the pan 3 cups all-purpose flour ½ cup shredded aged white cheddar 2 Tbs granulated sugar 1 Tbs baking powder 1 tsp salt 2 cups (500 mL) lager or light beer ¼ cup melted, salted butter

1. Preheat the oven to 375º F. Grease a 9x5” loaf pan and line it with parchment paper so that the edges overhang. Give it a good stir and scrape it into the loaf pan. That’s really all the technique involved. You likely won’t need all of the beer, so a few sips remain for you. I bet you’re loving this recipe already! Bake for about 35 minutes, and then pour melted, salted butter over the bread. Bake again, so the butter goes nicely into all of the crevices, then remove from the oven and let it cool. The smells emanating from the loaf are heavenly: beer, butter, yeast and cheese. The hardest part is waiting for the bread to cool so you can cut it, but once you do, you’ll be rewarded with a slice of deliciousness. The texture is nice and springy, with a good bit of chew. The butter, oh the butter, makes a lovely crust. There may be arguing over who gets the end pieces, just a word of caution. Fantastic with warm and hearty soups and stews, but also quite lovely when toasted with butter and jam for the next morning’s breakfast, this beer bread is versatile and super easy. It has now gone onto heavy baking rotation in my house, and I’ve tried other add-ins such as chopped rosemary and thyme, minced garlic, pinches of chili flakes and smoked paprika, and using honey instead of sugar. All grand, if I do say so myself. For an easy-to-make quick bread, this loaf really can’t be beat!

2. Add the flour, cheese, sugar, baking

powder and salt to a large mixing bowl. Stir well with a wooden spoon. Pour in the beer and stir to mix until it is evenly incorporated. You likely won’t use all of the beer. I had a satisfactory batter with 2 Tbs of beer leftover. Drink up!

3. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and bake for 35 minutes.

4. Pour the melted butter evenly

over the bread and bake for another 5 minutes, until the top is golden.

5. Remove the bread from the oven

and let cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then remove the bread from the pan and let it cool completely before slicing.

6. Best served the day it’s made, but also makes fantastic toast.

Optional add-ins:

–– 1 Tbs finely chopped fresh rosemary or thyme –– 1 Tbs minced fresh garlic –– substitute 2 Tbs liquid honey for the sugar –– substitute Gruyère for the cheddar

Our 3 rd Annual Culinaire Calgary Treasure Hunt is ::

S aturday, Apr i l 2 2 n d ! : : Everyone went home a winner at our first two Culinaire Treasure Hunts. They were both so popular that the spots all sold out, so for this year we’ve planned new and exciting destinations to discover, and new treats to enjoy! Places are filling up, so register today to be one of the lucky people to take part in our third culinary adventure! Trivia questions about participating restaurants, markets and stores reveal the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat, get your passport stamped, and maybe come away with a little culinary gift too! And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations, wear the best costumes, have the funniest team names, tweet the funniest photos … and lots lots more! It’s another very fun and rewarding day, so if you haven’t already registered, grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo.

Visit culinairemagazine.ca/contests to register, follow us on Twitter @culinairemag for the latest details, and like us on facebook at facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news and for more information!

–– add a pinch of red-pepper flakes or smoked paprika Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things will be published in the Spring of 2017.

I t ’ s g o in g t o b e a nother :: d ay t o re m e mber ! : : 19


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Fix your diet with Made Foods The Made in 21 Days Program and Cleanse Program by MELANIE DARBYSHIRE

With the arrival of Spring comes the perfect opportunity to re-energize. When it comes to changing the way you eat, the help of a professional can make all the difference. Add to that ready-to-eat, healthy and delicious food at your finger-tips, and you are practically guaranteed to succeed. Made Foods offers both of these things with its Made in 21 Days program. Combining the professional knowledge and guidance of Made Foods’ Certified Nutritional Consultant Jenn Hruby with chef-prepared, locally sourced, packaged meals-to-go, the program is designed to help kick cravings, boost energy and maintain a healthy weight. “The program is for anyone,” says Hruby. “Those who want to gain energy, lose weight or simply feel better. It’s designed to be life changing.” To get started, participants meet with Hruby to discuss their current situation and goals. She assesses their dietary requirements and deficiencies, and designs a threeweek meal plan based on these. Meals are from Made Foods’ vast menu (which changes all the time) of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, snacks Pickled Beet Fresh Rollsſ and smoothies, and ensure that each participant feels satisfied every day, all the time. Like all Made Foods’ meals, they are made using the best ingredients possible, with careful consideration to nutritional benefits. “The program was amazing and actually made my day-to-day life easier,” says Jenn W, a working mom who did the program last year. “I gained so much more energy right off the bat. My mind felt clearer and I felt lighter, the bloated feeling in my stomach disappeared. I also noticed my skin looked and felt much healthier too!” Much of the information Hruby gave ))ſ has been useful well-beyond the three week program: “She taught me a lot of things that are simple and easy to include in my day-to-day life that I wasn’t aware of and that I continue to do today.” For those in need of a major body clean-out, Made Foods has recently introduced a cleanse program. It includes two meals, a snack and a shake (a dietary supplement to support detoxification and gastrointestinal health) per day. “The cleanse program helps increase energy, improve sleep, sharpen memory and focus and help the appearance of healthy skin,” explains Hruby. “We focus on whole foods and eliminate foods that could be keeping us from looking and feeling great.” Contact Hruby at j.hruby@madefoods.com For more information contact Jenn Hruby at j.hruby@madefoods.com www.madefoods.com @made_foods


Find Your Best: Place To Drink Whisky by TWYLA CAMPBELL and LINDA GARSON

Gin might be in, but we know Alberta likes its whisky – but where to go? Take our light-hearted, simple quiz to find out which bar is your ideal whisky spot. Whichever bar you go to here, you’ll find something that hits the spot for your favourite dram! 1. I take my whisky… a) Seriously. That’s what I came for. b) Straight up, in a cocktail, with mixers…it depends on my mood. c) With friends, a lot of laughs and often late at night. 2. A meal with my whisky is… a) Essential. And I’m not sharing it with you! b) In the middle of the table so we can all help ourselves. c) Usually snacky, but sometimes more rib-sticking. 3. When I order a cocktail, I want… a) Something familiar, I’m focused on the whisky. b) To see what other people are drinking – bring on the smoking barrel! c) The classics, but with a playful twist. 4. My liquor cabinet at home contains…

a) Just my favourite single malts from my collection of Scotch — most are in the cellar. b) A few open bottles of bourbon and lots of bitters, I like playing with my drinks! c) Nothing, that’s why I’m going out for a drink. 5. When I drink whisky, I want to sit… a) At the bar and chat to the bar staff, they know me well. b) At a communal table that can fit our whole group, we’re here for the night. c) Often with my significant other, and sometimes with our crowd. 6. At my whisky bar, I like… a) The bar to be crammed with hundreds of whiskies to choose from, I’m working my way through them. b) That at lunch or dinner, I can

grab a quick casual bite or settle in for a session. c) A late night crowd of people to chat to, and to see lots of my buds after work. 7. I’d describe my whisky knowledge as… a) Extensive, I’ve lost count of the times I’ve been to Scotland! b) I’m not a novice, but I’m still learning and love to experiment. c) About the same as my knowledge of gin, tequila, vodka, and pisco – I’m an all-rounder! 8. My friends aren’t as into whisky as me, so they’re looking for… a) A neighbourhood spot with an extensive wine list. b) Somewhere we can all gather as a group, and there’s a great choice of craft beer. c) A place to drop by for a cocktail and catch up, but maybe stay for dinner, too. 21


whiskies here. The list is so long that you can wet your whistle with a “Waiting Whisky,” a daily changing half-ounce of premium whisky for $4 to sip while you choose your tipple!

Buchanan’s Chop House and Whisky Bar, Calgary (Mostly As)

Now in its 29th year, this Calgary staple is run by the second generation of Buchanans. Its strength – and pride

– is sticking with tradition. It has one of the largest whisky selections in North America, and a lengthy reputation for first class steaks and acclaimed burgers.

Whisky Wednesday is for both novices and seasoned drinkers to learn new whiskies – and bonus, the topically themed weekly flight saves you more than 25% off buying them individually. There’s also a daily featured whisky at discount, too. The oldest whisky here is Strathisla 1960, but it’s not the priciest – that spot is reserved for Glen Albyn 1966 at $300 per ounce.

The focus is on single malt Scotch, and you can count more than 400

738 3 Avenue SW, Calgary buchanans.ca

The Bothy, Edmonton

the country or go for an Around the World tasting flight.

A bothy is a small hut or cottage in Scotland. When you walk through the doors of The Bothy in south Edmonton, you feel like you’re stepping into the warm confines of someone’s cozy dining room. The space is dark and comfortable, and crammed with Edmonton’s largest selection of whisky with more than 260 different bottles, the vast majority from Scotland.

Feeling flush? The 1954 Mortlach is the oldest whisky in the house, and the most expensive at $220 for an ounce. If you prefer a heavily peated Scotch, go for the Octomore, a smoke bomb-in-a-bottle.

(Mostly As)

The Bothy is also one of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s 24 worldwide locations; explore the different regions of

One18 Empire, Calgary (Mostly Bs)

Paying homage to local history, the site of One18 Empire was a regular stop for Americans during the U.S. prohibition. Fast forward nearly 100 years, and you’ll find 240 different whiskies here from 10 countries, with Scotch and Bourbon taking pride of place. One18 is also a Scotch Malt Whisky Society location, and many of the locally inspired share plates on the menu are cooked with whisky too. 22

The perfect accompaniment to those Scottish sippers is the creamy mac ‘n cheese, overloaded with tangy, oven-dried tomatoes, Irvings Farm Fresh bacon, and cheddar cheese. 5482 Calgary Trail, Edmonton thebothy.ca Story-telling and flavours are the name of the game here, so play with the OFC program (Old Fashioned Central) to

build your own Old Fashioned with five types of wood, three types of sugars, 12 bitters, and 22 bourbons to mix and match – that’s 1,800 different combinations! Experimentation is encouraged by all staff here, resulting in creations like “A Whisky A Day,” an apple cinnamon pie whisky cocktail named for prohibition times when only doctors were allowed to distill alcohol for medicinal purposes. 820 Centre Street SE, Calgary one18empire.com


Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey, Calgary (Mostly Bs)

Calgary’s newest whiskey joint is known in equal parts for its house-smoked Texas barbecue meats and its range of American whiskies –102 at the last count from more than 120 whiskies on the bar. You’ll be spoiled for choice here with more than 100 whiskey cocktails on the menu. Most popular is Smoky Old Fashioned smoked off a Jim Beam barrel. The Whiskey Sour gets a lot of love here too.

Hayden’s whisky happy hour is from 3:00-6:00 p.m., when all whiskies are half price (except the very limited Pappy Van Winkle, as they only get a couple of bottles a year!) as well as the smoked wings. There’s $4 off all whiskey cocktails, making it the perfect time to try a signature Whisky Smash of Elijah Craig, lemon, mint leaves, sugar cube, and Angostura bitters, or a Lynchberg Lemonade with Jack Daniels, Cointreau, simple syrup, lemon juice and bitters. 1136 Kensington Road NW, Calgary haydenblockyyc.com

Where the Buffalo Roam, Canmore

If you’re looking for something else to light your fire, ask for a whisky (or mezcal) Old Fashioned. At the Buffalo, it’s stirred up with Sailor Jerry spiced rum, agave syrup, Fire and Damnation bitters, poured into a hickory smoke-infused vintage bottle.

(Mostly Cs)

The Wild Plains Bison roamed the Bow Valley until they were rendered extinct in the 19th century. The owners of this softly lit, long and narrow saloon in Canmore do their part to bring attention to the “Bison Belong” initiative by paying homage to the majestic animal. Pull up a chair at Where the Buffalo Roam and get acquainted with a

Midnight Cowboy. This drink is three fingers of Blanton’s bourbon, Matusalum rum, D.O.M. Benedictine, and Cocchi red, garnished with a boozeinfused cherry.

A bowl of hearty chorizo stout chili and you’ll be set until the cows come home — or maybe the buffalo, in this case. 626 Main Street, Canmore canmoresaloon.ca The Meathook features Alberta Premium Rye, the “the secret weapon” of bartender Riley Maggs, who loves to extol the virtues of this spicy, locally made whisky. A skiff of maraschino liqueur and Punt e Mes complements the rye, and a measure of smoldering Laphroaig Scotch adds some heft. A more appropriate name for this drink might be the Righthook because this potion packs a punch.

North 53, Edmonton (Mostly Cs)

A seat at North 53’s long bar is prime cocktail real estate. The flashy Smoke & Oak Fashioned featuring Victoria Spirit’s Oaken Gin gets all the press

at this lux lounge, but if you favour a whisky mixture, ask for the Nihon Sun or the Meathook. The Nihon Sun features Suntory Toki, a bold and oaky Japanese blended whisky combined with wood-fired Lapsang Souchong and plum wine.

Those spirits will stoke your appetite. North’s famous crispy, fried chicken is the perfect counterweight to the whiskies. 10240 – 124 Street, Edmonton North53.com 23


Spice it Up:

Courtesy GoBarley

6 Ways with Barley by MALLORY FRAYN

Raise your hand if the majority of your exposure to barley has been in the form of beef and barley soup. Chances are, your hand is up right now. Despite its prevalence in livestock feed and beer making, barley is only starting to gain traction as a grain worthy of incorporating into the average diet. In that spirit, here are six sweet and savoury ways to eat more of it. 1. Barley Cookies or Granola bars I admit, barley cookies may sound strange, but it’s a grain just like oats are a grain, so technically it makes a lot of sense. Try using cooked barley in a batch of hearty “breakfast” cookies, with applesauce as the base to reduce the fat and sugar, and plenty of dried fruit, nuts, and seeds for sustenance. 24

In general, you can substitute barley for half of the oats in your favourite oatmeal cookie recipe to change up the texture.

You have to cook barley before using it in various applications, rather than tossing it in raw This same strategy can be applied to other oat-based recipes like granola or granola bars. You may even find that you like the texture and taste better than recipes that use exclusively oats!

2. Barley Pudding Consider it like rice pudding, but healthier. Barley is full of fibre, which makes it the perfect component for a filling, guilt-free dessert. All you have to do is substitute rice for barley in your favourite rice pudding recipe. You may need to add a bit more liquid and cook it for a bit longer to ensure that the barley isn’t too al dente, but otherwise the methodology is the same. Cook, chill, and eat. Oh and sweetening it with maple syrup is definitely a must! It’s a natural Canadian pairing to go with barley given its similar roasty toasty undertones.


3. Barley Sushi This one is a bit out there, but when you really think about it, the concept is not much different from brown rice sushi. All you need to do is cook some barley, get yourself some nori, and roll it up with the fish and/or vegetables of your choice. Keep in mind that cooked barley is not quite as sticky as sushi rice. So in constructing your maki, try rolling it with the nori on the outside and the barley on the inside to keep it all together. Alternately, you can make rice paper rolls with barley and vegetables as the filling. Whether you’re making them for lunch, dinner, or a snack, they’re tasty and also super portable. Courtesy GoBarley

4. Barley Stuffing Barley can be eaten all on its own, or be an accoutrement to complement another more highlighted ingredient. Try using it as a stuffing, flavoured with

plenty of aromatics like onions, garlic, and herbs. Once these are all cooked together, you can stuff them into pretty much anything under the sun. Stuffed squash? Check. Stuffed mushrooms? Absolutely! Stuffed peppers? You bet. Heck, you could even spread the mixture onto the protein of your choice and roll it into a roulade, sear the outsides, and roast until cooked through. Barleystuffed turkey breast, porchetta, or beef roast would all work just fine and dandy.

6. Barley Crisp or Crumble Here we switch to the sweet side of life — or at least potentially we do. Barley and oats have a lot in common when it comes to their nutty flavour profile. The biggest difference is you have to cook barley before using it in various applications, rather than tossing it in raw like oats.

Barley is full of fibre, which makes it the perfect component for a filling, guilt-free dessert

5. Barley Arancini Pretty much any grain can be made into risotto, and barley is no exception. Follow the procedure for making regular risotto, just substitute Arborio rice for barley and taste as you go, adding only enough liquid to ensure that the barley is cooked through. You can also take it one step further and turn that risotto into arancini. The only thing better than creamy risotto is chilling it, rolling it into balls, and frying it into crispy, melt-in-your mouth fritters. Naturally you need cheese to make the most of this process. Given the nutty flavour that barley lends, you can complement that with an equally nutty cheese like Gruyere or Emmental.

The next time you whip up a batch of apple crumble, try mixing cooked barley into your topping to add some chewy texture in with the crispy oats. You can totally go savoury here, too. For example, you could use barley to top a mushroom and pea crumble with plenty of chopped thyme and rosemary tossed into the mix. How’s that for dinner on a chilly end-of-winter night?

Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat

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Food For A Backcountry Day, Chef Style by ROBYN MACLEAN

A memorable day in the mountains is like nothing else – stunning views, the anticipation of aprèsski festivities, and the unbeatable sensation of gliding down or breaking trail in that fluffy, white stuff in the crisp mountain air.

Whether you’re a hard-core powder chaser, a cross-country skier, or a snowshoe junkie, you’ll want to make sure you have enough fuel in your system to last any action-packed day. Nutrition and hydration outdoors often get overlooked. When you work up a big appetite, it’s too easy to hit up the lodge for beer and a greasy burger, but if you want to maintain energy for the remainder of the afternoon, it’s better to plan ahead.

To help attack a day through any terrain, just remember: big breakfast, lots of snacks, energy boosting lunch, après ski protein, and hydration, hydration, hydration. You’ve heard it time and time again — breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Start the day strong with a full tank of gas by eating carbohydrates, lean proteins and whole grains.

Just remember: big breakfast, lots of snacks, energy boosting lunch, après ski protein, and hydration, hydration, hydration “I’ve never been a huge breakfast guy, but on a ski day, I know I need it to jump start my metabolism and energize my brain and muscles before tackling the mountain,” explains Chef Michael Lehmkuhl, culinary director of the Banff Hospitality Collective. “I stay away from heavy food to avoid sluggishness,” he says. “A bowl of steel cut oatmeal with maple syrup and fresh berries is a good hearty option. I also love “toad in a hole” eggs using a good sourdough topped off with sliced avocado and radish.” If you just don’t do breakfast, smoothies and fresh juice are also great ways to easily build some much-needed carb calories.

Courtesy GoBarley 26

Continual grazing is also a good thing. Munch on carbohydrates (pasta, fruit, bread) and light protein snacks (nuts, meat, dairy) to help you recover and minimize muscle damage after a vigorous mountain workout. Load your pockets with easy-to-carry refueling snacks like granola or energy bars,


fresh fruit, yogurt and trail mix with dried fruit. Even on epic snow days when you don’t want to waste a moment, lunch is a must. After hours of exertion, your body needs both a physical and nutritional break. To avoid the post-lunch slump, keep it light with a balanced mix of carbohydrates (fruit, pasta salad), lean proteins (turkey chili, cheese, pulses), and healthy fat (avocado, nuts). Beans, chickpeas and lentils are excellent sources of energy building protein, and much easier for your body to break down than heavy red meats. Even consider making a mixed bean salad the night before.

(speck, dry cured sausages, prosciutto), some nice hard cheeses, and a demi baguette. If I’m going all out, nothing pairs better with beautiful snowcapped mountains and bitter cold than caviar with blinis, cucumber, and crème fraiche – I especially love salmon and trout roe, and ‘Northern Divine’ Canadian sturgeon caviar,” he adds.

Before you jump in that hot tub, eat some post-workout protein snacks to help your body recover

restaurant in the village. But before you jump in that hot tub, eat some postworkout protein snacks to help your body recover, decrease soreness, rebuild muscles and put you in tiptop shape for another active day. “Après-ski beverages are part of winding down. I relax with a glass of Amaro, a bitter, aromatic spirit to warm my cold bones,” Lehmkuhl explains. “I also love warm cocktails like the Canadian classic, Cougar Milk*, and a crisp glass of white wine — cold climate wines just taste better in cold climates, like a Chablis or a crisp chardonnay.” *See culinairemagazine.ca for Lehmkuhl’s Cougar Milk recipe.

“For snacks, I pack my homemade granola bars and Ritter Sport chocolate,” says Lehmkuhl. “When it comes time for lunch, I might pack a small charcuterie

Finally, when your legs feel like jelly and you call it a day, there’s nothing like prying off those boots, removing your toque and goggles, and settling in for a celebratory beverage. Après-ski rituals typically involve booze and hitting up a

Granola Bar

1. Combine oats, honey, nut butter and 4. Bake in a 300º F oven for about

1/2 cup rolled oats 1/2 cup almond, or other nut, butter 1/3 cup (80 mL) wildflower honey 1/4 cup (60 mL) milk 1/2 cup of dried fruits (sultanas and dried apricots) 2/3 cup of nuts and seeds (pine nuts, hazelnuts, and pumpkin seeds) 1/4 cup of good dark chocolate, chopped Maldon salt – to top

milk in a bowl and mix to combine well.

2. Fold in your nuts and seeds, and

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer, with a passion for food and beverages. Calgarian at heart, she can be found exploring Houston, Texas, the playground she currently calls home.

25 minutes until the bars just start to turn golden.

chocolate carefully to not mash fruit or break nuts.

5. Sprinkle the warm bars with

3. Spray a 9x9” baking dish with

6. When cool, cut to desired size – or

cooking spray and press the “batter” down evenly.

Maldon salt.

just tear into chunks to pop in your mouth on the go.

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2017-01-27 12:45 PM


The Wide World Of Whisky: Styles From Around The Globe by ANDREW FERGUSON

Whether beer, wine or whisky, liquor privatization in Alberta has created one of the finest markets for liquor in the world, and by far the finest in the country. There are well over a thousand different bottles of whisky on liquor stores shelves across the province. So how do you choose? Where do you begin? Terminology is as important in whisky as it is in wine. The words on the label of each bottle have meaning that can imply what grain(s) it was produced from, what style it is, or even what taste profile it might have. In most parts of the world (Scotland, Canada, Japan,

28

mainland Europe, and Asia) whisky is spelt without an “e.” An “e” is for the most part only added to whisky from the United States and Ireland.

Scotch Whisky

Although there is no firm proof, the Irish seem to have the most respected claim as the inventors of whisky. Many Scots will concede this point, but quickly add it was they who perfected it. Whatever the truth, Scotland’s whisky industry is the world’s largest and most respected. Scotch is a term that can only be applied to whisky made, matured and bottled in Scotland, and consists of five subtypes: single malt, single grain, blended malt, blended grain, and blended. Any understanding of Scotch whisky must begin with single malts. Although single malts are the most sought after

and prized style, they only account for about 15 percent of Scotch whisky sales by volume (a much higher share by value). All the more surprising when you consider that all but a handful of Scotland’s 120+ distilleries, like Glenfiddich, Macallan and Glenlivet, exclusively produce single malt whisky.

Blended Scotch whiskies account for close to 85 percent of Scotch whisky volumes sold in bottles today A single malt whisky is produced by malted barley in a pot still at a single distillery. If you blend together two more single malts, but no grains, you get a blended malt whisky.


Macallan-Distillery

Single grain whiskies, like single malts, are produced at a single distillery, but distilled from corn or wheat (usually corn) in a column still. This still refines the spirit to a much higher level of purity than a pot still can, leaving very little character. Grains are intentionally distilled to be neutral when coming off the still so they can serve as the body of a blend, to which more flavourful malt whiskies are added creating specific flavour profiles. Single grain whiskies are usually only ever seen from independent bottlers, and only at very advanced ages. Blended grain whiskies are the rarest Scotch whisky style, with few examples in Alberta.

Blended Scotch whiskies, like Johnny Walker, Chivas Regal and Famous Grouse, account for close to 85 percent of Scotch whisky volumes sold in bottle today. The blended whisky style came about in the mid 1800s when rules were changed, allowing grocers to blend malt and grain whiskies, and for the first time sell their whiskies in bottle.

Irish Whiskey

Irish Whiskey was the most respected style in the world in the late 1800s, but the 20th Century would not be kind to them. By the 1970s, there were just two remaining distilleries, Bushmills in Northern Ireland, and New Midleton in the Republic. The latter distillery produced almost all the brands of Irish Whiskey available until very recently. The 21st Century is looking lot brighter, with more than a dozen distilleries now active, and more set to open in the next few years. Most

Bushmills Distillery

Irish whiskey is blended, a combination of malt, grain, and pot still whiskey, like Jameson, Tullamore Dew and Midleton Very Rare. Single Malts, like Bushmills 16 Year, Teeling Single Malt, Tyrconell, and Jack Ryan 12 Year, are a style rapidly growing in popularity, rising with the interest in Scottish single malts. A unique style of Irish whiskey is Single Pot Still. This style arose out of a desire to avoid a tax imposed on malted barley in 1785. While the tax was eventually repealed, the style lived on. Red Breast 12 Year, Green Spot and Writerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tears are all excellent examples of Single Pot Still Whiskies.

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Bourbon

Although most people think of bourbon when considering American whiskey, the reality is much more complex. Craft whiskey is booming in the U.S., and new producers are not bound by tradition. Not all American whiskey is bourbon, but bourbon can only be made in the U.S. One of the most closely regulated whiskey styles in the world, straight bourbon must be made from a mashbill of at least 51 percent corn, with the balance made up of barley, wheat, and/or rye. The whiskey must also be matured in new American oak barrels. Jack Daniel’s and George Dickell are a similar, but slightly different, style known as Tennessee Whiskey. The rules for making Tennessee Whiskey are almost identical, except before filling into barrels the spirit is matured in sugar maple charcoal vats.

Canadian Whisky

Canadian whisky is not all rye; you can bottle a Canadian whisky without a trace of rye grain in it. Most Canadian whiskies like Crown Royal and Canadian Club are blended, and made almost exclusively from corn.

You can bottle a Canadian whisky without a trace of rye grain in it Some distillers will also add malt and a trace of rye to their mashbills for added character, like Forty Creek Confederation Oak and Wiser’s Legacy. 100 percent Rye Canadian whiskies are increasingly in vogue in Canada and around the world. Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye and Canadian Club 100 percent Rye are recent additions following in the footsteps of stalwart 100 percent Rye whiskies. Single malts are also a growing category in Canada, with Glen Breton 10 Year as the first, now joined by Stalk & Barrel Single Malt and Shelter Point. 30

Japanese Whisky

It may come as a surprise to some, but the Japanese have been producing whisky for nearly 100 years. Whisky is an important part of Japanese culture, adopted from the West during Japan’s modernization.

Paul John Distillery

The Japanese have been producing whisky for nearly 100 years The early Japanese distilleries looked to Scotland for inspiration. Though the whiskies can’t be called Scotch, Japan produces the same styles as the Scots do (although no blended grains have been bottled). Although suffering a major downturn in the 1990s and 2000s, demand for Japanese whisky has been surging over the last five years. As a result, Japanese single malts are very hard to come by in Canada at the moment. Blends like Suntory Toki, Nikka From the Barrel, and Mars Iwai Tradition are most common.

Other Parts of the World

India is the biggest “rest of the world” player in the world of whisky, the largest whisky producer and consumer worldwide. But while there are premium Indian whiskies like Paul John and Amrut, the vast majority is of low quality and not legally recognized in most parts of the world. Further east, Kavalan distillery in Taiwan also has a global reputation for its whiskies. Down

under, whisky making is booming in Australia, too. Few Australian whiskies make it to Canada, but you should be able to find Tasmania’s Sullivan’s Cove if you look hard enough.

Want to learn more? Pour yourself a dram, settle into a comfy chair and tuck into one of these great whisky books: Malt Whisky Yearbook (updated annually) Dave Broom’s Whisky: The Manual Charlie Maclean’s Whiskypedia Davin de Kergommeaux’s Canadian Whisky Whisky by Michael Jackson Bourbon Straight by Chuck Cowdery

Glenora Distillery

A Calgary native, Andrew has been working in the liquor industry for more than 15 years. He is the owner of Kensington Wine Market and one of Canada’s most respected experts on Whisky.


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13 day luxury wine and culinary tour of Provence and the Rhône September 21st - October 3rd

Experience the beauty of Southern France and discover the outstanding wine and food specialities of Provence and The Rhône Valley

This comprehensive tour includes: • Four-star hotels in Villeneuve-Les-Avignon, Lyon, and Paris • Excursions, winery visits and tastings with special Vine & Dine privileges in vineyards and castles • Visits to artisanal markets, castles, museums, theatres and temples • Valrhona Chocolat e Cité du Chocolat • Plenty of time to shop and wander... • And lots more...!

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From Grain To Glass:

The Dynamic World Of Whiskey Cocktails by LINDA GARSON and MADELEINE MACDONALD photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Whisky is a versatile spirit, and there are many, many different expressions. So while it seems you could add it in just about any cocktail, an honest mixologist will tell you there are a few key points to keep in mind. With bourbon, you have the advantage of highlighting subtle oak notes from aging, and those tasty caramel notes from the corn in the mash. Bourbon is often blended with other grains, so the trick is to pair it with flavours that complement those earthy elements of spice, vanilla and wood.              As an Albertan, it would be a crime to forget rye whisky. There are countless classic rye cocktails, including the Manhattan and Sazarac, but because it has so many spicy elements you have the luxury of either playing into it or toning it right down. To highlight that spice, focus on softer spirits like dry vermouth or sherry; toning it down

means incorporating sweetness found in many liqueurs or sweet vermouth. Scotch is a dynamic whisky favourite. Strongly peated whisky can add a depth of smoke to make the perfect earthy cocktail. In many contemporary cocktails, Scotch also works as an incredible rinse to add those subtle “rough around the edges” notes.   Whatever whisky you choose, have fun with it. Try things that you’d never think would work and you could be surprised!

Deacon Blues

¾ oz Rye Whiskey ¾ oz Green Chartreuse ¾ oz Sweet Vermouth Dash orange bitters Scotch rinse Orange peel

Combine all ingredients except Scotch in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir until chilled, about 30 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass that has been rinsed with scotch. Express orange twist over the cocktail and garnish.

Madeleine is the Beverage Director at Model Milk, Model Citizen and Pigeonhole. She was the winner of the Mademoiselle Cointreau contest in 2014, and has had many of her cocktails published nationwide. 32


9th Avenue SE – Whiskey Row: During prohibition, only hotels were allowed to sell liquor, and as there were several hotels on 9th Avenue SE, it became known as Whiskey Row. It was here that we find the Sundance Kid – yes, he was part of Calgary's history! Harry Longabaugh (Sundance) was in Southern Alberta for around three years, wrangling at Bar U Ranch near Longview, and also in the Blackie area 70 K southeast of Calgary. Looking for a change in lifestyle, Sundance and his partner, Frank Hamilton, opened a saloon in the Grand Central Hotel on 9th Avenue SE, between Centre Street and 1st Street SE.  However there were many disputes between the partners and Sundance

decided to leave Calgary and head south, where he met up with Butch Cassidy and his team, the Wild Bunch. Only a short time after he left the city, a fire razed both the saloon and the hotel to the ground. One18 Empire’s Alejandro Lobo-Guerrero explains that they continue the whiskey tradition because of the location. “The versatility of whiskey makes it the perfect spirit to create spectacular libations,” he says. “The wide range of flavour profiles, from vanilla, cinnamon, and chocolate, to peat and smoke, allows us the liberty to mix unique and innovative cocktails.”

One18 Empire Jammy Horse

1 oz blackberry jam 1 oz cranberry juice 1 oz lemon juice 1 oz sage and honey syrup ½ oz Amaretto ½ oz Alberta Premium Dark Horse

Add the ingredients to a cocktail shaker in the order above and shake, shake, shake with ice. It’s important to shake for a bit longer than normal, to make sure that the jam is emulsified.

Here’s an Alberta recipe using Dark Horse whiskey to create a well-rounded drink with a balanced combination of sweet and savoury flavours.

33


Pink Boots In The Brewhouse

Courtesy Calgary Brewery Tours

by KIRK BODNAR

Historically, the role of hunter has fallen to men, while the role of gatherer for ingredients to make the food and beverages to go with the catch, has been the women’s domain. Even when our ancestors ended their nomadic lifestyle over 11,000 years ago, started growing domesticated wheat and barley crops, and began living in settled farming communities, nothing changed – brewing was primarily a woman’s role. Through the ages of the Sumerians, Babylonians, Egyptians, and Vikings, most women drank and brewed beer, and it wasn’t until the 1700s, and the rise of commercial breweries, that the roles reversed. But things are changing again and a true passion for beer has more and more women seeking out careers in the Alberta beer industry — the craft beer industry, in particular.

Millennials represent the fastest growing group of new beer drinkers Natasha Peiskar, National Beer Hall brand manager and Certified Cicerone, is one woman who has made a distinct mark on the Alberta Craft Beer scene in the last few years. 34

“Despite the fact that the industry is so male-dominated, there definitely are some bad-ass women doing great things for the beer industry and pushing it forward,” says Peiskar. In addition to being in charge of all things beer at National, Peiskar is the president of CAMRA Alberta and is heavily involved in Southern Alberta’s craft beer community. Despite what seems to be a more male-forward

industry, Peiskar says she’s only had positive experiences working in the craft beer business. “In Alberta it’s been so welcoming – it doesn’t matter. It’s the love of beer that everyone has in common,” she says. “When you sit down at a table and you talk to someone about it, they just want to talk about beer – they don’t care who you are.”


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Peiskar is also one of the primary organizers of the Calgary version of the Big Boots Brew Day, an initiative started in 2008 by the U.S.-based Pink Boots Society – a non-profit organisation of female movers and shakers in the beer industry. Their mission is “to assist, inspire and encourage women beer industry professionals to advance their careers through education,” and members in fifteen countries learn from each other, and help each other advance their beer careers by raising money for educational scholarships to accredited brewing programs. Big Boots Brew Day is a collaborative and educational experience that provides an opportunity for multiple groups of women from all over North America to get together to brew a specific beer recipe on International Women’s Day. A portion of proceeds raised through the sale of Calgary’s Big Boots Brew is used to fund a bursary that is awarded to a female student enrolled in Olds College’s Brewmaster and Brewery Operations Management Course.

Calgary brewery in 2015, to seven breweries hosting between 10 and 20 women each last year. The recipe that will be brewed this year is a version of an “Ancient or Historical Beer,” which will be based on old recipes similar to those that would have been brewed by colonists new to North America centuries ago, and likely brewed by women in the home. These beers will likely use ingredients such as heirloom varieties of grains, as well as honey or molasses. It will be interesting to see how the various breweries decide to interpret the style for this year’s brew!

Big Boots Brew Day takes place on International Women’s Day, on March 8th, and is expected to be bigger than ever, with many of Alberta’s breweries joining in. This will be the third year that Alberta breweries are involved in the Brew Day. The popularity of the event has swelled from only 17 women and one Natasha Peiskar

Big Boots Brew Day takes place on International Women’s Day, on March 8th

The increase in popularity and attendance for the Big Boots Brew Day could be perceived as clear evidence that craft beer is gaining popularity among women. According to the U.S.-based Brewer’s Association, millennials represent the fastest growing group of new beer drinkers, and among millennials, females represent the largest percentage growth year after year. The number of women gaining interest in craft beer in general could be an indication that a change like this is on the way. After all, it really doesn’t matter what colour boots the brewer is wearing, as long as the beer they brew is delicious. For more information on Big Boots Brew Day 2017, please visit: pinkbootssociety.org/big-boots-brew/

Kirk Bodnar is a Certified CICERONE®, BJCP beer judge, beer consultant, history teacher, home brewer, and Education Director for CAMRA Alberta.Follow him on Twitter @beersnsuch 36


Alberta Craft Breweries: A Look Ahead For 2017 by DAVID NUTTALL

In late 2015 there were about 20 licensed breweries in Alberta. In 2014 two new breweries opened after the Alberta government changed the law to make it easier to open a brewery of any size, and five opened in 2015, so even with an increase of about eight per year, 50 breweries seemed like a reasonable number by 2020. Boy, was that ever an underestimation. Who would have guessed the number of breweries would literally double to more than 40 by late 2016? With possibly 20

breweries opening this year, dozens more waiting approval from AGLC, and a passel in the planning stages, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s probably not much of a leap of faith to predict there will be more than 100 breweries in Alberta by the end of the decade, if not sooner. But what does this mean to Albertaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy and our beer scene? Well obviously, any investment these days is welcome. Of course new breweries open up employment opportunities for architects, contractors and anyone else involved in building, and the use

of (mostly) local ingredients for beer (especially barley, wheat and rye) is a boon to both farmers and new malt houses springing up. This growth also means more beer options for the local consumer, who is now from Anytown, Alberta. When something new hits the province, it often only appears in Calgary and/or Edmonton. While these cities are seeing their own share of growth, new breweries are being built in Lethbridge, Red Deer, Medicine Hat and even smaller spots like Hinton, Lloydminster, Edson and Three Hills. 37


Currently, many of these new breweries only supply keg beer or growler fills to their region. Given their average production, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Many small town breweries have been overwhelmed with the response from local inhabitants, selling everything they produce faster than expected.

Last Best Brewing Courtesy Calgary Brewery Tours

In addition to more Alberta beer, we’re also seeing an increase in beer varieties. Brewers walk the tightrope between creating beer that they like to make versus brewing beers that simply sell well — as is the goal of every commercial brewery.

It’s not much of a leap of faith to predict there will be more than 100 breweries in Alberta by the end of the decade It’s hard to predict what will take off with the fickle palate of the consumer. Just as radlers came out of nowhere in 2013 followed by the explosion of IPAs in 2014, the debut of session beers in 2015 and the renaissance of sours last year, some style will become the darling of 2017, and almost every brewery will do their take on it.

An increase in local breweries also creates a growing beer scene. There is now an Alberta Small Brewers Association, currently with 30 members, and an Alberta Craft Beer Week in late September. Both informal beer clubs and organised groups, such as CAMRA, have started forming, and more beer events such as tap takeovers, beer tastings and dinners with local brewers, educational seminars and festivals are happening every week. More people are turning to home brewing, and many are becoming professional brewers of the future.

Alberta is home to one of the few brewery schools in the world at Olds College, and there is also a whole new cottage industry of all things beer. The Alberta Craft Beer Guide debuted in 2016, and is currently out with its second 83-page edition, listing 69 breweries as existing or coming soon; this would have been a one-page pamphlet just five years ago. Beyond endless beer bloggers, there are also websites like Just Beer App and The Daily Beer, which publishes an updated map of where all these breweries are located.

Scheduled to open in 2017:

Olds College 38

Prairie Dog Brewing, Calgary

Folding Mountain, Hinton

Cold Lake Brewing and

All Mountain Brewing, Edmonton

Distilling, Cold Lake

Ol’ Beautiful, Calgary

Zero Issue, Calgary

Inner City Brewing, Calgary

Annex Ale, Calgary

Civil Beer Company, Calgary

Polar Park Brewing, Edmonton

Red Bison Brewery, Calgary

Blind Enthusiasm, Edmonton

Aurora Beer, Edmonton

Bragg Creek Brewing, Bragg Creek

King of Springs Brewing,

Caravel Brewing, Calgary

Didsbury

Siding 14 Brewing, Ponoka

Outcast Brewing, Calgary

Town Square Brewing, Edmonton


Having multiple breweries has triggered another industry previously non-existent in Alberta: brewery tourism. Calgary Brewery Tours started last year (can an Edmonton one be far behind?), and there are also self-drive maps available if you want to search for suds in the hinterland.

S e e wh e re a T W I S T O F FAT E w i l l t a ke yo u .

As the brewing scene grows, a sense of community grows with it. These breweries are not huge faceless corporations — they are often owned and run by your neighbours. They participate in community events, support the arts and local charities, and their taprooms have become local gathering spots.

Alberta is home to one of the few brewery schools in the world While technically in competition with each other, they are also known for their camaraderie. Not only are there unity and collaboration beers, but start-up breweries without a building often get their beers brewed at another brewery until their facility is ready. The “older” breweries become mentors to those just starting out, sharing their growing pains and explaining what government hoops to jump through. Surely this rapid growth will slow down sometime, although no one knows when that will be. Look for similar industries to sprout up too; distilleries attached to breweries, and a growth in meaderies and even cideries could be the next generation. For the next few years at least, Alberta is in for a hell of a ride on the Beer Express!

EMBRACE the UNEXPECTED.

Please enjoy responsibly.


Invivo 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand

Making The Case:

Getting High On Acid by TOM FIRTH

Wine aficionados love acidity. Naturally occurring in wine, acid puts the spring in the step, the sizzle in the steak, and makes good wines, potentially great.

A sleek, modern expression of sauvignon blanc from New Zealand with melon, lime, and just a little bell pepper. Slightly waxy on the nose as well, the palate is bright and zippy with well-restrained herbaceousness. Would match very well with seared scallops or lemony dishes. CSPC +749787 $18

Thörle 2015 Riesling Gutswein Feinherb, Rheinhessen, Germany

Some folks can taste acidity in wines, while for others, higher acid wines might be “felt” more as a prickle along the sides of your tongue or by salivating a little more while tasting.

Germany and New Zealand are known for the same. Acidity also has a wonderful effect when pairing with food as the acid helps balance fat or richness in dishes.

There is such a thing as a wine being too acidic, but unless a wine is acidified, generally the type of grape(s) used in a wine or the region of origin will determine how much acidity there will be.

Sweet wines with not quite enough acidity may taste syrupy or “flabby,” and without the right acidity, won’t complement the food at all.

Grapes like riesling or sauvignon blanc are known for their acidity, and cooler-climate regions like

“Spring clean” your palate this month with these wonderful wines that celebrate how beautiful acidity can be.

Tom Firth is the contributing Drinks editor for Culinaire magazine, and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. He firmly believes that great riesling is proof the universe is unfolding as it should. 40

A simply awesome riesling that I just love. Lime citrus aromas with crushed granite mineral tones, green apple, autumn leaves, all wonderfully intense and balanced. A very agreeable example of beautiful riesling for those who appreciate this fine grape. CSPC +786743 $21

Sattlerhof 2015 Südsteiermark Sauvignon Blanc, Gamlitz, Austria Looking for a slightly unusual expression of sauvignon blanc? Slightly leafy with lemony fruits and melon rind notes on the nose with a sagebrush-type herbaciousness. Distinctively sauvignon blanc with plenty of mineral tones, gooseberry, and citrus, but quite restrained overall. Should complement delicate flavours in seafood or poultry. CSPC +785297 About $30


Villa Maria 2015 Single Vineyards Taylors Pass Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand

Kentia 2014 Albariño Rias Baixas, Spain

Plan B! Wines 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Frankland River, Western Australia

Fresh and tightly dialed-in sauvignon blanc showcasing moderate salinity, melon, lime, and freshly mown grass. Lean on the palate with mineral notes in abundance and some lemon/lime rock candy flavours. Great typicity and very well balanced. CSPC +783509 About $35

A wonderfully sexy and exciting white wine. Lifted and focused tropical fruits of quince and pear, with a mild nuttiness and steely mineral tones. Made from 100 percent albariño, it’s interesting, tasty and shows a lovely level of acid balance. Pair with shellfish or seared scallops. CSPC +766929 $21 on the shelf

Always have a Plan B! Partially barrel fermented, the nose has lemon drop and lemon meringue pie aromas with softer ones of melon and gooseberry. On the palate, flavours have a hint of honeyed character adding depth to citrus fruits. Very tasty, and should work with white fish or softer cheese dishes. CSPC +742937 About $18

Markus Huber 2015 Grüner Veltliner Terrassen, Traisental, Austria

Markus Huber 2015 Gelber Muskateller, Austria

Hillside 2015 Muscat Ottonel Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A perfectly lovely bottle of grüner. Melon and white pepper on the nose with lemon rind and slate mineral aromas. Crisp and dry, with exceptional balance between fruits and acidity. Would be a good match with Asian cuisine or green veggies. CSPC +785377 $24

Simply delicious from start to finish. Mild honey tones with intense fruit characters and nuanced floral components on the nose leaning towards chaparral-style herbaceousness. It’s a little lean on the palate, and quite dry, but one of those rare gems that is exciting to drink. Stunning! CSPC +785380 Around $28

An uncommon variety in the Okanagan, muscat ottonel ripens a little earlier than some other types of muscat. Floral, aromatic and zesty citrus aromas lead into an off-dry palate with pure and clean fruits. Really well balanced, and the palate-scrubbing acids are perfect for a little spicy heat or hot weather. CSPC +434803 $29

Kuhlmann-Platz 2013 Cuvee Prestige Gewürztraminer, Alsace, France

Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2015 2Bench White, Okanagan Valley British Columbia

Clos du Soleil 2014 Capella British Columbia

A “textbook” example of floral aromas in wine. Positively bursting with rose petal, hydrangea and honeysuckle, fruits lean towards melon, lychee, and orange rind with a vanilla-like undercurrent. Plenty of zingy acids brighten all fresh flavours, and a long, almost creamy texture on the finish rounds it out. CSPC +764132 About $18-19

Mostly chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier with semillion and muscat, the 2Bench white has been knocking it out of the park for years. Tropical fruits with plenty of spice and some prominent barrel flavours give excellent mouthfeel and a slightly zingy finish. Suitable for roasted chicken, herb-rubbed pork shoulder or a hearty prime rib. CSPC +722105 $23

A white meritage wine mostly sauvignon blanc with about 12 percent semillon, this wine hails from the Similkameen Valley, a perfect locale for terroir-driven wines both white and red. Layered citrus fruits on the nose, with slightly grassy grapefruit tones. The palate is crisp and full of lemony and mineral goodness without being overpowering. CSPC +823334 $36 41


And she has certainly proved her point, successfully building the business from scratch as well as helping others on CBC’s Dragon’s Den. Minhas has lived all her life in NW Calgary; her father was an engineer with Pan Canadian, but was laid off in the downturn of 1993. With his redundancy package — but no experience — he took the plunge and opened three OK Liquor Stores. His children also studied engineering. “That’s what you do if you are good at math and science in this province,” Minhas laughs. But while working holidays with her parents, she soon discovered there was an opportunity, and with her brother, started a business bringing in a private label line of spirits for their parents' stores. “We really hit it out of the park with our tequila and our Blarney’s Irish Cream, which has been number two in Western Canada for the last decade and a half,” she says.

Open That Bottle story by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“I think any successful person or entrepreneur grabs any opportunities within reach, and at the right time,” says Manjit Minhas, co-founder and CEO of Minhas Breweries, Distilleries and Wineries. 42

They did very well in their parents’ stores, but wanted to get into the beer business. “We felt there wasn’t enough competition, and too much product available that wasn’t very good. We decided that only four real ingredients were going to be in our beer, and we’re going to make it a bit stronger, because we’re Canadian, to give it a bit more bang for the buck,” she laughs. Brewed under contract in Wisconsin, Mountain Crest Classic Lager launched in 2003, and was an instant success. “Beer is what made us famous and really successful,” Minhas says. “But it was a dream come true to actually make our brewery here five years ago in Calgary. It’s been a continuous learning experience for sure; it’s been fun, lots of challenges, lots of failures along the way, but our

spirits have never been broken. We’ve always learned from the experiences. My brother and I really love what we do – and it’s fun!” she adds. Now, they produce beers for many different customers, including Kirkland beers for Costco. So what bottle is Minhas saving for a special occasion? “We were doing well and we wanted to buy the brewery (in Wisconsin),” Minhas explains. “It’s the second oldest brewery in the United States; it’s been continuously running since 1845, and has a lot of history.” The first day they officially owned it, they took the first bottle of Mountain Crest Classic Lager and the first can of Boxer off the line, and kept them. “At that time we didn’t know where things were going to go,” she says. “Every penny we had was in this building, and in this country that we didn’t live in either, so it was a scary time. Exciting, but scary nonetheless.” And when does Minhas plan to open them? “We decided that day that we would open both of them if we made it to our tenth anniversary,” she says. But in November 2016, they didn’t open them. “We didn’t have the heart,” Minhas smiles. “We said 10 years is great, but we have so much more to do yet, we’re going to do this on our 25th.” “We have them in a temperature controlled fridge in our office. It’s to remind us of the first day we actually owned something rather than somebody else producing it for us. It’s another 15 years, and hopefully we make it that long, and then we will open them. They might not be great by then, but it’s more ceremonial at that point.”


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Culinaire 5:9 (March 2017)  

Alberta's freshest food and beverage magazine for dining out, dining in, wine beer, spirits and cocktails.

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