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ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 5 NO.3 :: JULY/AUGUST 2016

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD

TAKES CENTRE STAGE

SPINS ON FISH & CHIPS Lagers Come Of Age | Discovering Pisco | Grilled Fruit & Veggies


Find us in Downtown Edmonton at 9929 - 109TH STREET NW

Find us in Downtown Calgary at 521 - 10TH AVENUE SW

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& enjoy a caipirinha (or 2) on our Brazilian Patio!

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11 VOLUME 5 / ISSUE #3 JULY/AUGUST 2016

Features 11

Finding Alberta’s Summer Food Festivals Between Canada Day and Labour Day, it’s festival season. From crazy carnival food to authentic ethnic cuisine, here are 24 Alberta summer festivals for foodies by David Nuttall

18 Eight Fruits and Vegetables… that transform when grilled by Nerissa McNaughton

22 Good for the Ocean, Good for People Sustainable seafood 101 by Jacqueline Louie

28 Hidden Gem Patios 4 Alberta patios worth discovering by Anna Brooks and Twyla Campbell

32

3 Ways to Get Crabby Enjoying friendly crab recipes by Natalie Findlay

16 The Whole Effing Story From Sea to Spoon From boom to bust, Rob Tryon followed his dream and anchored his sustainable seafood business in Edmonton. He isn’t dreaming anymore… he’s living it by Twyla Campbell

44 The Magic of Fino and Manzanilla Sherry is definitely under-appreciated – it’s not the warm, sickly sweet stuff of great-aunts and grandmothers. After the first taste of Fino, you might be hooked by Margaux Burgess

36

Departments

In Praise of Lagers Lagers come of age by David Nuttall

42 Sunshine in a Bottle Discovering Pisco by Linda Garson

48 Making the Case … for summer lovin’ wines by Tom Firth

50 Open That Bottle Jennifer Rempel of 4th Street BRZ – and much more! by Linda Garson

6

Salutes and Shout Outs

8

Book Review

10

Off The Menu – Cibo’s Mushroom Pizza

14

Soup Kitchen

19

Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

24 Spice It Up: Fish and Chips 30 Step-By-Step: No-Churn Matcha Ice Cream

On the Cover: Many thanks to Chef Bryan Michaels, of Catch & the Oyster Bar, for his delicious Selva Prawn Salad with coconut, red curry emulsion, and cilantro vinaigrette – and to Ingrid Kuenzel for her photography showing it at its best (yes, we can vouch that it tastes as good as it looks!).


Letter From The Editor There are Latin festivals, Caribbean festivals, African festivals, Japanese festivals, and many more – and they all involve the food and drink of the region. It’s a great way to travel the world without ever leaving home! We’ve detailed 24 food festivals across Alberta on pages 11 and 12; don’t miss the opportunity to experience new-to-you culinary delights, and meet the people who make them.

Welcome to our joint July/August issue, celebrating all things summer in Alberta! It’s so liberating being able to walk outdoors unencumbered, and spending time on patios, rooftops, decks and balconies. There are more reasons to be outdoors too with at least one festival every weekend showcasing the diverse cultures of our province.

The Alberta Beverage Awards take place immediately after Stampede, and even in a difficult economic climate, this year is looking to be a bumper year, with more wine, beer, and spirits entries than ever for our judges to sip and spit their way through. Last year our panels of sommeliers, restaurateurs, journalists, and retailers, blind-tasted over 125 flights, poured into about 5,000 glasses, to choose the

Best In Class, their Judges Selections, and the Top Value products, to help with your beverage choices for the holiday season and beyond. The results will be revealed in our October issue, so be sure to get your copy. Many people tell me they keep it to refer to throughout the year. If you're not able to find Culinaire in the outlets listed on our website, and we know that copies disappear very fast, we do deliver to you – and for the rest of 2016, we’re donating 20% of every subscription to Fort McMurray Fire Relief. Check out culinairemagazine.ca/subscribe. We’re very excited for our 1st annual Edmonton Treasure Hunt on September 10th. Register swiftly to reserve your spot; we know they’ll sell out quickly! Look forward to seeing you there, Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

: : Our 1 s t A nnual E dmon t on Tr easur e Hun t ! : : Our first two sold-out Calgary Culinaire Treasure Hunts have been so popular and successful, and everyone has gone home a multiple winner – so now we’re thrilled to announce our first Edmonton Treasure Hunt!

You’ll answer trivia questions about the participating restaurants, markets and stores, to reveal where to dash off to receive your treat, get your passport stamped, and maybe come away with a little culinary gift too!

On Saturday, September 10th, from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm, you can be one of the lucky people to take part in Culinaire’s 1st annual Edmonton Treasure Hunt!

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations, wear the best costumes, have the funniest team names, tweet the funniest photos… and lots more!

We’re planning a very fun and rewarding day in Edmonton, so grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo. Visit culinairemagazine.ca/contests to register, follow us on Twitter @culinairemag for the latest details, and like us on facebook at facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news and for more information!

: : I t ’s going t o be a da y t o r emember ! : :  @culinairemag  /CulinaireMagazine  /culinairemag

culinairemagazine.ca


ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales Director: Lisa Wolansky 587-338-8780 lisa@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media Editor: Anna Brooks web@culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Margaux Burgess

Margaux has worked in the hospitality industry for over 10 years. As founder of Edmonton based Lingua Vina Sommelier Services, she is able to work with producers and hospitality professionals to fuel her passion for knowledge and increase the opportunities for education and events in Alberta. Margaux is a Certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers and a Certified Sherry Educator from the Consejo Regulador de la D.O. Jerez-Xeres-Sherry.

limitless y o u r TA S T E i S

l i k E T h E pA S S i o n w E p u T i n T o o u r c u l i n A r y c r E AT i o n S

Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Anna Brooks Margaux Burgess Twyla Campbell Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Renee Kohlman Jacqueline Louie Robyn Maclean Nerissa McNaughton Karen Miller David Nuttall

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

< Twyla Campbell

Twyla is the restaurant reviewer for CBC Edmonton AM, and a freelance writer whose articles have appeared in local, national and international publications. She is also a research writer for a law firm where she writes reports on topics relating to indigenous peoples in Canada and South America. An avid globetrotter, Twyla writes about her travels and food findings on her blog, Weird Wild and Wonderful. Follow her on Twitter @wanderwoman10

we know that when you host a function, you want nothing but the best for your guests… it’s the kind of

< Nerissa

appreciation that is rare and reserved

McNaughton

for individuals of interminable taste.

Food enthusiast and professional writer, Nerissa McNaughton is the founder of I’m Write, a freelance writing firm. Her credits include magazine and newspaper articles along with blogs and online content on both sides of the border. In addition to writing, Nerissa enjoys learning new ways to enjoy her favourite foods, and can seldom pass a cookbook without stopping to read it like a novel. Tweet to Nerissa @imwrite1 – comments on good eats are always welcome!

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

So when we cater your special event, we channel limitless passion and creativity for a culinary experience to remember forever.

dream it possible

g r e ateve nt s g r o u p. c a


Salutes... Congratulations to The Post Hotel And to Chef Sean MacDonald… … on raising a record-breaking $120,500 for Kids Cancer Care at this year’s Wine Summit Lake Louise. Over the last 12 years, they have raised more than $820,000 altogether!

Executive Chef, Market Restaurant, Calgary, who won the nationwide contest to represent Canada in the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 competition in Milan this October.

And to Calgary’s Cilantro Restaurant

… named one of the 100 Best Outdoor Dining Restaurants in Canada for 2016 by OpenTable diners.

and Shout Outs... Even in difficult economic times, there are still new restaurant and specialty store openings: Little Henry

au chocolat, pretzels, fruit Danishes, and cookies, squares, tarts and cakes. There’s also a retail shelf with treats such as salted caramel squares, almond butter toffee crunch, and granola. We expect a bright future for owner Catherine Tetreault and ex-Model Milk/Pigeonhole Head Pastry Chef, Tammy Crocker.

SW, Calgary, next to Hotel Arts’ parkade. Formerly executive pastry chef at Deville, Lotecki offers macarons, cupcakes, mini cheesecakes, and a variety of beautiful 16-20 serving cakes using local ingredients – flour from Highwood Crossing, Foothills butter, Sparks’ eggs and local berries. We love the wall of sprinkles!

White Rose Kitchen

Trolley 5

Calgary’s Bowness has a new eatery from Dwayne and Alberta Ennest of Little Henry Open Range and Big Fish. White Rose At the front of Ten Foot Henry, on Kitchen is a chef-driven, casual, 451st Street SW, Calgary, is now Little Henry seat vegetarian restaurant with a menu – a grab-and-go, quick service food and designed for sharing family-style. With coffee shop, with a focus on healthy and only three items that contain gluten, it’s wholesome meals. Aja Lapointe and Chef celiac-friendly too. And at the front is Steve Smee have created a menu of fresh Coal Shed, a take-out window serving salads, sandwiches, gourmet soups, and smoked, braised and grilled meats. Yum! artisan pastries, complemented by organic, fair trade espresso from The Sweet Relief Pastries Roasterie, tea from The Naked Leaf and After a couple of years making custom cold-pressed juice from Juice Because. cakes, owner/pastry chef Deidre Lotecki This welcoming, bright space is open every and husband Joel, have now expanded day from 10am to 6pm. to open a storefront too on 13th Avenue

Framboise

Uccellino

A new neighbourhood bakery/café, Framboise has opened its doors on 20th Avenue NW, serving up homemade croissants (savoury as well as sweet), pain

Sweet Relief Pastries 6

In the Melrose spot on 17th Avenue SW, Calgary, Trolley 5 is a restaurant built around a microbrewery. Owners Ernie Tsu and PJ L’Heureux have taken the best they’ve seen from all over the world; look for wall cladding from old railway ties, a dry cleaning rack for growlers, and grab one of 15 seats upstairs or downstairs at the windows that open up fully to the street. Chef Troy Ramgust (ex-Cibo, Home & Away, and two-time winner of Pig & Pinot) is cooking up comfort food, like slow cooked BBQ ribs, to munch with De-Railed Pale Ale, Conductor Marzen, and Hi 5 IPA, or a collaboration beer with Parallel 49, Last Best and Dandy Brewing. New for Edmonton is Daniel Costa’s new casual trattoria-style eatery on Jasper Avenue, right next door to his very successful Corso 32 and Bar Bricco. Spacious and bright, with high ceilings and a private dining space up top, the best news is that half Uccellino’s seats can’t be reserved, so you can chance getting a table. The menu is traditional Italian, with surprise green olives arriving after you order, and dishes such as Cacio e Pepe made with exclusive dried pasta from Italy that you can actually buy to take home and cook yourself.


Do not fear

THE MALL!

presents

2016 GRAND TASTING HALL Where else will you find our extensive selection of wine, spirits and beer? PLUS tastings, classes, Wine Club, gift baskets, gift cards and More!

West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58, Beneath Simons • www.aligrawineandspirits.com • 780.483.1083 Like us on Facebook • Follow us on Twitter • Find us on Yelp 20160608 Culinaire Mag.pdf

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2016-06-08

1:20 PM

ALBERTA’S LARGEST SELECTION OF FINE WINE, PREMIUM SPIRITS, QUALITY BEER & GOURMET FOOD

CALGARY October 14 - 15 Stampede Park BMO Centre

Friday Evening Session: 5 - 10 pm Saturday Afternoon Session: 12 - 4 pm Saturday Evening Session: 6 - 10 pm Get your EARLY BIRD TICKETS by September 9th and save!

For Tickets and Festival Details, visit rockymountainwine.com Please enjoy your beverages responsibly. Minors are not permitted.


Book Review by KAREN MILLER

Happy Hens & Fresh Eggs

by Signe Langford, Douglas & McIntyre 2015 $22.95 With a growing demand for fresh, organic, local food, raising your own chickens in the backyard is not so far fetched. Local governments are addressing the issue and apparently, according to Signe Langford, sharing a small garden with chickens is not that hard. They do like to “help” with the gardening, so better to follow Langford’s tips for a successful backyard chicken coup. The book is divided seasonally, so tips and chores are set out accordingly; cleaning up in the spring, keeping chicks cool in summer, and extending daylight in winter. The recipes included in the book are also divided by the seasons and are really “eggcellent” choices (sorry, had to do it!). The author explains essential uses of eggs in classic dishes, only sometimes with a personal twist. Her first section on “how to boil an egg” is a wonderful example of how the simplest of things can be more difficult than first thought. Some recipes come from celebrated Canadian chefs, and all show the extreme versatility of the egg. The book’s photographs display stunning pieces of egg memorabilia, dishes, and linens, and the variety of recipes in the book is also very impressive. The variety of recipes in the book is also very impressive. Beautiful Iles Flottantes (p. 117), a Decadent Orange Cream (p. 106), giving tips on using egg whites to make our drinks "bartender frothy", and a great original soup idea – a combination of two favourite soups in Egg Yolk Won Ton soup (p. 155) – all shine. So even if cleaning chicken poop out of a backyard coop is not your thing, buy cage-free eggs and get cracking (sorry, had to do it again!). Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.


Paradise Hill Farm, Nanton, AB

Client/Project Code CC-0076-16 Publication Culinaire Magazine Size (WxH) 1/2 Pg Vertical (4.125” x 10.75”) Project Description Local - Paradise Hill Insertion Date July Colour 4C This ad has been prepared by C&B Advertising | 403 770 0925 | CandBadvertising.com | The brand behind a brand.™

136 2nd Street SW

Warm Hospitality, Brazilian Style

Enjoy gourmet Brazilian in our restaurant

or order as takeout.

Churrascaria Bar & Lounge

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lbe

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ees

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OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

Made with Fresh Alberta Milk Fresh Products Locally Made Bocconcini • Burrata • Cheddar • Feta Fiore de Latte • Fresh Cheese Curds • Jalapeño Jack Marble • Monterey Jack Mozzarella • Parmesan Cheese Provolone • Ricotta Our Company is Committed to the We are Members of : Highest Level of Food Safety. • Alberta Food Processors • Federally Inspected • HACCP certified

• Alberta Dairy Council • Better Business Bureau of Southern Alberta

Your cheese dollar stays in Calgary. These people dine in your establishments. 100 mile diet? Start with Franco’s local cheese to reduce your carbon footprint. 100kg of cheese represents 1000 litres of fresh Alberta milk.

Local Owners • Local Staff Local Dairy Producers • Local Fresh Milk P: 403.279.4353 • F: 403.279.4795 • E: info@albertacheese.com www.albertacheese.com


Off The Menu Cibo’s Mushroom Pizza by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

We received the following email from a Culinaire reader: We have moved from Calgary to California and I miss so many Calgary eats! But I mostly miss the mushrooms pizza from Cibo with the truffle oil. My husband and I love love love that pizza!!! If you could find that recipe I would be so very thankful!

CW, California

We agree, Cibo’s Mushroom Pizza is delicious, and we are delighted to oblige with the recipe. Many thanks to Chef Glen Manzer for sharing! Mushroom Pizza Serves 8

Good quality pizza dough Fried rosemary White sauce (recipe below) Your favourite mushrooms Your favourite sea salt Extra virgin olive oil Truffle oil Fontina cheese, grated Grana Padano cheese

White Sauce 4 cups (1L) 35% heavy cream 300 g Grana Padano rinds (or 200 g grated cheese) 1 cinnamon stick 5 juniper berries 2 bay leaves a few sprigs fresh thyme a few sprigs of fresh rosemary 10 or so black peppercorns

10

Combine all ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Over medium low heat, being careful not to scorch or boil over, cook slowly until flavourful and thickened. Strain, discarding all solids. Note: This sauce is best made the day before, and refrigerated overnight. If serving the next day you may have to strain again to remove any large clumps. Mushroom Mixture Cibo uses an assortment of different mushrooms including shitake, oyster, cremini, and other wild and specialty mushrooms. Clean and cut mushrooms so they are similar in size, and dry.

To Build Your Pizza 1. Stretch pizza dough, and have your oven as hot as possible.

2. Onto the stretched pizza shell add the white sauce, spreading it out as if it were regular pizza sauce. A little goes a long way when it is cold. Cibo uses just over 1/3 cup (90 mL) on a regular sized pizza. Cover sauce with mushrooms, then a little bit of grated Fontina.

3. Bake pizza 12-18 minutes until crust starts to brown and cheese melts.

4. To finish, let cool slightly and sprinkle with fried rosemary and finely grated Grana Padano. Drizzle extra virgin olive oil on the crust as well as a sprinkling of sea salt (the larger the grain of salt the better). Cut the pizza and drizzle with truffle oil.

Note: Chef Manzer prefers as little as possible of good quality white truffle oil. If there’s a dish in a local restaurant that you’d love to know how to make, let us know at culinairemagazine. ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you!


Markerville

Finding Alberta’s Summer Food Festivals by DAVID NUTTALL

The period between Canada Day and Labour Day becomes festival season in Alberta. As the two months most likely to stay snow free (fingers crossed), seemingly every city, town, village, and hamlet puts on some kind of celebration.

While all rodeos and music festivals do have a food component, only a few festivals provide a truly gastronomic experience. Whether it’s carnival food or ethnic cuisine, here are some of the best summer food festivals in Alberta.

become an entity unto itself, with 34 new items for 2016, including a poutine corn dog and salted caramel deep fried coffee. Most of this midway food will find its way north to Edmonton for K- Days July 22-31 (kdays.com).

Calgary Stampede (calgarystampede.com) arrives July 8-17, right on the heels of Canada Day. While still primarily a rodeo, there is more here to eat than just beef on a bun. Enjoy a wine garden and food market on the grounds or try fine dining at Ranahans. The midway food has

The biggest food festivals of the summer begin with Taste. Taste of Edmonton (TOE) (tasteofedm.ca) runs July 21-31 in Churchill Square, and Taste of Calgary (TOC) (tasteofcalgary. com) takes place August 11-14 in Eau Claire. It’s the 20th anniversary of TOC, 11


(fiestaval.ca), and Expo Latino, August 5-7, (expolatino.com). The Edmonton Latin Festival runs August 13-14 (edmontonlatinfestival.com). Latin American associations from both cities will provide all sorts of food and lively entertainment.

Taste of Calgary

and a new stage has been added that will showcase chef celebrities, authors, speakers, contests, showdowns, chefs’ demos and much more. Look for an expanded beverage garden and dozens of local restaurants offering samples. TOE also features food from local restaurants, and this year is home to the Canadian Food Championships, July 22-24 (canadianfoodchampionships.ca), which is the culmination of a year long search for Canada’s best amateur and professional cooks. Sometimes you can tell what a festival is just by its name. Calgary’s Brewery and the Beast – Festival of Meat, August 21, (breweryandthebeast.com) is just that. This is a carnivore’s delight, with dozens of restaurants showcasing all kinds of meat and beer from Phillip’s Brewing Company. Get your tickets fast though, as it sold out last year!

a whole village of cultural pavilions and ethnic booths featuring food from five continents.

Heritage Day brings out many cultures in both cities. In Edmonton, the Servus Heritage Festival (heritage-festival.com) runs July 30-August 1, and lets you sample Other festivals marching to a more than 500 culinary delicacies from tropical beat in Calgary are Carifest over 60 pavilions representing 85 cultures (carifestcalgary.com) in August, from all over the world. Smaller events Afrikadey!, August 10-13, (afrikadey.com), take place in Calgary on August 1 and Reggaefest, August 18-20, at Heritage Park (heritagepark.ca), (calgaryreggaefestival.com). Edmonton Olympic Plaza (calgaryfolkartscouncil. has its Cariwest Caribbean Arts Festival ca), and Fort Calgary (fortcalgary.com). August 5-7 (cariwest.ca). All the colour, We love to celebrate Canada’s cultural music and food from the islands and the diversity with food from around the world! African continent will be present in both cities. Last, but certainly not least, we cannot ignore Alberta’s small(er) towns. Many There are also many smaller events celebrate their cultural past; some salute involving groups most people don’t even the farmers, ranchers, and local growers. think have festivals. The Calgary Turkish Festival (CalgaryTurkishFestival.com) • Vegreville is more than just the home runs July 29-31, and has Turkish delights of the world’s largest pysanka, it from döner kebabs to baklava. Calgary’s celebrates its Ukrainian heritage at Japanese Festival “Omatsuri” its annual Pysanka Festival July 1-3 (calgaryjapanesefestival.com), on (pysankafestival.com). Expect August 13, lets you expose your inner dancing, music and lots of perogies samurai and enjoy traditional Japanese and cabbage rolls! cuisine and sake tasting. • Taber honours its most famous export There are also festivals that cover a wide with the annual Taber Cornfest August variety of cultures. In Calgary, Globalfest 26-27 (destinationtaber.com). (globalfest.ca), August 15-27, is thought of largely as a fireworks competition. • Okotoks has two summer food However, up at Elliston Park there is festivals with A Taste of Okotoks

If you’d like to try something a little more foreign, ethnic festivals abound. Lovers of all things Latin get two Calgary festivals, Fiestaval, July 22-24, Fiestaval

Globalfest Photograph courtesy NathalieTerekhova 12


Brewery and the Beast

occurring July 23, and Chili Fest on August 27 (both at okotoks.ca). • On July 23, A Taste of Markerville (tasteofmarkerville.com) features a country food market, appetizers and an incredible long table dinner prepared from local ingredients by a team of chefs.

GOES WELL WITH RED MEAT AND RENEGADES

• Aimed at creating a connection between producers and consumers, Sturgeon County Bounty (sturgeoncountybounty.ca) hosts their annual Culinary Cookout on August 5. There will be music, farmers’ market vendors and much delicious food prepared from local ingredients. • Taste of Wainwright happens July 21. Here there will be music, farmers’ market, vendors and more delicious food prepared from local ingredients. • Locavore Lacombe, on July 23, (lacombedays.ca) also introduces the public to farmers and local chefs, cementing a bond for the F&B culinary culture that our area offers, and supports what a Locavore is: a person interested in eating food that is locally produced. Of course, there are many more festivals, farmers’ markets and events all through the province. Travel Alberta (travelalberta.com) provides an update on almost everything going on. You may get to meet the producers, growers, farmers, ranchers, or chefs who are responsible for all this wonderful food. So get out there and taste what’s happening in Alberta, whether it’s in your hometown or somewhere else near or far. You’ll be amazed at what you find, and you’ll be glad you did.

NEW ALBERTA’S #1 SELLING ZINFANDEL


Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON

Despite what most people may think, soup can be as fresh tasting as a light summer breeze, and I’m determined to prove it to you this month. First, let’s take the idea of ceviche, with it’s crisp, citrus bite, and apply that to a chilled aromatic sumac broth ladled around cool chunks of cucumber and avocado that has a hue much like a summer sunset, but a flavour all its own.

Second, try working with mushrooms outside of the cream soup world (Campbell’s has left us all very unimaginative these days with the poor fungi) and highlight their earthiness by warming them in a fragrant ginger broth that can brighten up a rainy day or two.

Roasted Mushrooms with Ginger Soy Broth Serves 4 Total prep and cook time 45 minutes

Broth: 8 cups (2L) water 2 x 5 cm pieces ginger root, peeled 1 cinnamon stick 1 Tbs brown sugar

1 Tbs (15 mL) soy sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) oyster sauce 2 tsp (10 mL) fish sauce 2 tsp (10 mL) rice wine vinegar

Place all ingredients in a medium pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Reduce to low heat and let simmer for 20 minutes. Discard ginger root and cinnamon, cover and keep hot on the stove. Honey-pickled oyster mushrooms: 2 cups (480 mL) white vinegar 1 cup (240 mL) water 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey

1 Tbs salt 8 Szechuan peppercorns 2 cups oyster mushrooms, separated

Note: these pickled mushrooms are also a great addition to any summer salad or served alongside barbecued chicken, pork or steak. Combine first 5 ingredients in a small pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Let simmer for 1 minute. Place oyster mushrooms into a heat-safe bowl and pour boiling mixture overtop. Let sit for 10 minutes and then place in the refrigerator. Let sit in pickling liquid for at least 30 minutes before using in soup. Note: pickled mushrooms will keep for up to 5 days and strengthen in flavour during that time. 14

Roasted mushrooms: 12 brown mushrooms, quartered 12 shiitake mushrooms, halved and 5 mm sliced

2 Tbs (30 mL) sesame oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil To taste, salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 425º F. Place prepared mushrooms into a large baking dish. Whisk sesame oil and canola oil together and drizzle overtop. Season liberally with salt and pepper, and let roast in oven for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before assembling soup. Place even portions of roasted mushrooms into 4 bowls. Add several strips of pickled oyster mushrooms to each and top with hot broth.


Chilled Avocado and Cucumber Soup

Serves 6 Total prep and cook time 2 hours 30 minutes

Broth: 8 cups (2L) water 2 cups (480 mL) white wine 2 yellow onions, peeled and halved 6 garlic cloves, peeled 2 Thai chillies, halved 2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 lemon, halved 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 1 Tbs dried sumac (available at any Mediterranean grocer like Kalamata Grocery) 2 tsp sea salt

1. Place all ingredients in a

Preheat oven to 400º F. Lay out thinly sliced focaccia onto a large baking sheet, drizzle with oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake in the oven until edges turn golden and bread is crispy, approximately 10 minutes. Remove from oven, let cool and set aside until ready to serve. Avocado and cucumber salad: 2 avocados, halved, pitted and 1 cm cubed 1 medium cucumber, halved and 1 cm cubed ¼ cup fresh basil leaves, loosely torn 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrup To taste, salt and pepper

large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Reduce to medium heat and let cook uncovered, for 30 minutes. Place all ingredients in a large bowl; toss gently to combine. 2. Remove from heat and Be careful not to mush the pass through a fine mesh strainer chunks of avocado. Place in into a large mixing bowl, discard the refrigerator to keep cool aromatics. Strain one more time until ready to assemble. and then place in the refrigerator to chill, about 1½-2 hours. Place 2 generous spoons of avocado/cucumber into Focaccia crisps: 6 soup bowls. Ladle chilled 12 very thin slices sumac broth into each until focaccia loaf salad is mostly covered. 4 Tbs (60 mL) canola oil Garnish with focaccia crisps To taste, salt and pepper and serve immediately. Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he's not writing about Canada's amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside


The Whole Effing Story From Sea to Spoon by TWYLA CAMPBELL photography by DONG KIM

Rob Tryon grew up in a family of west coast fishermen. After studying aquaculture and fisheries at Vancouver Island University, he became an oyster farmer, planting and harvesting bivalvian crops just west of Ucluelet, in Effingham Inlet. It is this inlet that inspired him to name his company Effing Seafood. 16

That name is gold, and Rob Tryon knows it. His postings on Twitter and Facebook contain hashtags with effing this and effing that in the quip. It’s a name that raises eyebrows, but it’s also a name that no one can forget, and that’s exactly what Tryon is banking on. The moment he joined Twitter in 2011 as @effingoyster, people started taking notice, and business boomed. And then it bust. “I had a lot of changes all at once, and I needed to hit the restart button on my life. I came to Alberta, like many people from the island, to work in the oilfield,” he says.

Tryon had no experience and no education in the trades, but he had a good work ethic and willingness to learn. He quickly advanced up the pipeline ladder and moved from camp to camp depending on the location of the job. The money gave him security, but it didn’t compensate for what he needed most – more time with his kids. On a long road trip back to the Island, he knew things had to change. “I didn’t see my kids for four months. I had a lot of time to contemplate life on that drive home, and by the time I hit Valemount, I knew what I was going to do.” That day, October 1, 2015, was the day Rob Tryon declared himself back


in the business of selling seafood — but this time, he’d do it in Edmonton where, according to him, the people were welcoming and had good hearts. That’s nice, but would they buy his product?

“Many people want to know where their food comes from and I want to be the one to tell them” Seafood on the coast is an easy sell. Convincing land-locked Albertans to view oysters as the other white meat could prove to be a hard hook to set, and Tryon’s approach didn’t exactly conform to any rules of any business model. He did no research on demographics, he didn’t know who the competition was, he knew no chefs or people in the food industry. He simply jumped in because he believed in the product. Armed with social mediums, he sought out some Edmonton food scene folks and introduced himself. In less than 24 hours he was tied in so securely, it made his head swim, and he’s hardly come up for air since. Chefs, especially, were very interested

in sustainable seafood that is shipped within 48 hours of being caught. Tryon has since added Acadian Sturgeon products from New Brunswick, but the majority of his shellfish and seafood comes from Canada’s west coast. Business has increased exponentially since Rob Tryon anchored in Edmonton; Effing Seafood now receives several shipments a week containing prawns, salmon, tuna, cod, and various in-season seafood. Edmonton is flush with fish – and of course, oysters. “Oysters are an experience,” Tryon says with reverence. “It’s about flavour: how and where they’re grown, the size of the oyster, the salinity, the species and the freshwater influence.” He refers to these factors as merroir—think terroir for food or wine, but borne of mer, the French word for sea. He should probably trademark that before someone else steals it. Selling seafood brings great joy to Rob Tryon, but the highlights of his life are his two girls, Sierra and Savana. “They’re the reason I do this; the reason I get out of bed in the morning," he says. When they visit, the girls help sell seafood at farmers markets and ride along with their dad on deliveries.

They have their own business cards proclaiming one, Head Caviar Girl, and the other, Head Seafood Girl. When Tryon is busy shucking oysters, the girls help out with customers picking up on the storytelling where their father leaves off. It’s obvious these pearls haven’t fallen far from the shell.

Nights in oilfield camps were spent envisioning his product, his mobile seafood store, and his future with his children

Tryon is in his element telling stories about the seafood. “Many people want to know where their food comes from and I want to be the one to tell them,” he explains. He can definitely tell you where the products come from; he can also tell you the captain’s name as well as the name of the boat. He could, I’m convinced, offer up the name of the captain’s dog, if one exists. The day Rob Tryon moved off the island, he dreamed that he would again, someday, sell the exquisite seafood he grew up with. Nights in oilfield camps were spent envisioning his product, his mobile seafood store, and his future with his children. He looks back to that day in October – to that very moment he decided to follow his dream – smiles and says “I don’t have to dream anymore… I’m living it.” This CBC Edmonton AM restaurant reviewer and freelance writer knows Edmonton inside out, but her travels take her beyond the Prairies, where she eats, drinks and reports back on the best spots in the country. 17


Fruits And Vegetables That Transform When Grilled by NERISSA MCNAUGHTON

We love fresh produce in the summer, but why settle for yet another salad when you have a grill in your backyard? Thanks to their natural sugars, these eight fruits and vegetables transform in both taste and texture when you grill them, giving you a whole new way to enjoy produce – and liven up your next barbecue! 1. Strawberries: Toss fresh berries in

6. Carrots: Heat really brings out the

sweetness of these orange gems. Toss a pound of large, whole carrots with melted butter and a dash of rosemary and/or thyme, and grill for 20 minutes. The result is a succulent carrot that melts in your mouth.

3. Apples: Adding a cheese plate to

your grilled dinner? Take it to the next level by including grilled apples. Tossed lightly in oil so they don’t stick, thick 1 cm slices of apples need just three minutes per side to be the perfect complement for sharp cheeses.

4. Lemons: Serving lemon wedges with

salmon? Change it up by putting halved balsamic vinegar, then coat them in sugar. lemons directly on the grill. This makes Place them on the grill for 1-2 minutes them easier to squeeze and sweetens and you get a sweet, tart treat that also them up without adding sugar. makes a great ice cream topping. 5. Watermelon: This fruit undergoes a dramatic transformation when grilled. The flesh becomes dense and firm (like seared tuna) and the sweetness gives way to a savoury flavour bold enough to support condiments like sea salt and soy sauce.

2. Bananas: The trick to grilling

bananas is to slice them lengthwise and grill them in their skins. Add some honey if you want to caramelize the bananas for an ice cream topping, and pour some rum over the ice cream too if it’s an adult-only dinner! 18

7. Romaine Lettuce: Move over

Caesar salad! When you put thick romaine hearts on the grill after dressing them lightly with olive oil, salt and pepper, the flavours intensify from the light charring. Finished with grated Romano, Parmesan or Asiago cheese, grilled romaine hearts are the unexpected dish your guests will rave about.

8. Kiwi: Like grilled prawns? Try

skewering a slice of kiwi on top, or adding thick chunks of the fruit to a seafood kabob. The tartness is refreshing and adds flavour without overwhelming the seafood. Nerissa McNaughton is a professional freelance writer. Her credits include magazine and newspaper articles along with blogs and online content. She enjoys learning new ways to enjoy delicious food.


Chefs' Tips Tricks!

Finishing Seafood

story by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by DONG KIM and INGRID KUENZEL

Do you ever feel like your home cooked fish dishes aren’t quite as on-point as the ones prepared at your favourite restaurant? Do you ever wonder what the big secret is? Perhaps the fish has the perfect char, a textbook texture, or the skin has that impeccable balance between crispy and salty. Although skill, tools and technique are without a doubt key components, we believe that how you finish a fish with sauce or seasoning is what really brings it to the next level.

“Halibut is the perfect summer dish and a fantastic option for the first time fish adventurer. A fun fact many aren’t aware of is that halibut cheeks are the most tender and flavourful part of the fish. If you ever have the opportunity to try them, you’ll be hooked for life. Unfortunately they usually don’t make it to market because fishermen prize them for their own consumption.”

Lemon Caper White Wine Sauce Rodney Clark

Rodney Clark, Owner

Rodney’s Oyster House (Calgary)

“When it comes to seasoning delicate Whether raw, grilled, baked, seared, fried, seafood, less is more. Using just a little poached or smoked, we want to know how salt, pepper, lemon juice and fresh herbs to best enhance fish to truly complement will allow the delicate flavours of the fish and embrace the fresh, natural flavours to really shine through,” explains Clark. of the sea – so we asked a few seafood “Keep in mind, you want to enhance the experts for some inside tips. fish, not overwhelm it.”

(pairs well with grilled halibut) Serves 3-4

Juice of 2 lemons 1 Tbs capers, drained and rinsed 2 tsp shallots, thinly sliced 4 tsp unsalted butter ½ cup (120 mL) dry white wine

1. In a pan, melt half the butter on a

medium high heat. Add shallots and capers and sauté lightly until shallots are translucent.

2. Add wine and lemon juice, and bring

to a rolling boil. Add remaining butter to help emulsify, stirring constantly.

3. Remove from heat and pour directly onto fish. Garnish with thinly sliced lemons and fresh herbs (Italian parsley) if desired.


higher acidity using lemon and vinegar will highlight the natural fish flavour.”

Chef Bryan Michaels

Cucumber and Green Onion Salsa

(pairs well with Ocean Wise seared Ahi tuna) Serves 4

Chef Adelino (Lino) Oliveira

Chef Adelino (Lino) Oliveira SABOR Restaurant (Edmonton)

Chef Oliveira recommends starting your seafood adventure with a conversation at your local seafood store. The fishmonger will be happy to recommend a fish variety based on the cooking technique you have in mind. “Not all fish cooks the same. Some varieties are better under-cooked and some well done. This depends on how oily or fatty it is,” explains Oliveira. “Tuna for example, not being very fatty or oily, is ideal rare, whereas the oily sablefish is better cooked well done and with the skin on.” “Now, the word ‘sauce’ refers to a condiment or relish used to enhance dishes. Sauces introduce complementary flavours, add moisture, visual interest, and adjust texture,” continues Oliveira. “Most fish are very subtle in flavour, so light tangy sauces are always best. Sauces with

3 cucumbers, seeded and diced 1 cucumber, thinly sliced 1 tsp fine salt, divided into 2 4 Tbs (60 mL) white balsamic vinegar, divided 1 cup (240 mL) pure olive oil, divided 1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped Pinch of chili flakes ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley, cilantro and basil 1 tsp curry powder ½ cup finely chopped green onions

1. In a food processor, add the thin

cucumber slices, ½ tsp of fine salt, 2 Tbs (30 mL) white balsamic vinegar and ½ cup (120 mL) of olive oil. Mix until coarsely combined. Check for taste and adjust seasoning as required.

2. Pour mixture over the diced

Chef Bryan Michaels

Catch & the Oyster Bar (Calgary)

cucumber in a large bowl. Toss to coat.

“Throughout summer I like to top fish with a refreshing salad or chunky 3. In the food processor again, add onion, fruit salsa to add texture and a pop of ½ tsp of fine salt, 2 Tbs (30 mL) white colour,” explains Chef Michaels. balsamic vinegar and ½ cup (120 mL) of olive oil, chilies and all the fresh herbs. “Try playing around with fruit like Blend until coarsely combined. Add to oranges, mango, pineapple or peaches, the bowl of diced cucumber. then add something for crunch, such as red onions, bell peppers or fennel.” 4. Add curry powder and green onions and gently mix together. Add salt and olive oil to taste. Top fish with a refreshing salad or chunky fruit salsa to add texture and a pop of colour

“In my recipe below, the crunch from the fennel and the fresh burst of orange complements fatty fish like salmon or even a meatier fish like halibut. The salt and citrus breaks down the fennel creating a sweet, salty and crisp summer salad, the perfect finish to any grilled fish.” 20


Shaved Fennel Salad with Oranges and Salami (pairs well with grilled salmon) Serves 4

1 bulb of fresh fennel 1 whole fresh naval orange 20 g sliced salami (optional) 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil To taste salt and fresh cracked black pepper

Â

1. Trim the top of the fennel and

reserve the fronds. Cut fennel in half (either way is fine) and shave it as thin as you can on a mandolin or julienne with a knife. Place in a bowl.

2. Zest the orange into the bowl with

the fennel. Cut both ends off the orange and use a knife to remove the peel. Use a small knife to cut each segment out. Squeeze the juice of the leftover orange into the bowl.

3. Thinly slice the salami into narrow strips and add to the bowl.

www.bookersbbq.com

4. Pick the fronds from the fennel

stems, give them a quick chop and add. Season with a pinch of salt, fresh

cracked pepper and olive oil. Toss everything together and leave to macerate for 15 minutes.

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer, with a passion for food and beverages. Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage, AK, you can still find her on Twitter @robynalana

/bookersbbq

@bookersbbqyyc

Phone: 403.264.6419

316 3rd St SE


Good For The Ocean, Good For People: Sustainable Seafood 101 by JACQUELINE LOUIE

We may be a landlocked province, but we know Albertans love their seafood. As an important part of a healthy diet, it’s a bonus that eating fish can help cut the risk of heart disease, and bring a host of other health-related benefits. The Canada Food Guide recommends eating at least two servings of fish (at least 150 grams) each week.

But overfishing is a terrible threat to the world’s oceans. Approximately 90 percent of all large predator fish have disappeared. Entire ecosystems are being lost, and researchers have predicted a global fisheries collapse by 2048. What to do? The solution could be as simple as choosing responsibly sourced, sustainable seafood, defined by Ocean Wise as species caught or farmed in a manner that ensures their long-term health and stability, as well as the longterm health and stability of the marine ecosystem as a whole.

Approximately 90% of all large predator fish have disappeared

And there’s never been a better time to find sustainable seafood, with so many choices available – there are more than 160 restaurants serving up Ocean Wise seafood in Alberta alone! Whether you’re shopping for groceries to enjoy a home-cooked meal, or choosing to dine out, here’s a primer to help you navigate some of the major seafood eco-labels and certifications.

Ocean Wise

Pan roasted Arctic Char Photograph courtesy Big Fish Restaurant, Calgary 22

Ocean Wise is a Vancouver Aquarium conservation program that assesses aquaculture and wild caught seafood. An eco-logo and best choice recommendation, Ocean Wise works with hundreds of restaurants, markets and suppliers across Canada to source sustainable seafood.


Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC)

Pot Au Feu C Photograph courtesy Big Fish Restaurant, Calgary

Aquaculture Stewardship Council is an independent not-for-profit organization whose global certification and labeling program promotes best environmental and social choices for buying responsibly farmed seafood. Founded by WWF and the Dutch Sustainable Trade Initiative, ASC-certified products can be found at Real Canadian Superstores across Alberta, and you’ll find information on Canadian certified farms and suppliers at asc-aqua.org.

Finding Ocean Wise seafood options and outlets is easy when you visit oceanwise.ca, or download the free iPhone Ocean Wise app.

your MSC-certified seafood, with 503 products listed in stores such as Real Canadian Superstore and many others. Starting May this year, students at the University of Alberta, University of SeaChoice Calgary, University of Lethbridge, and Canadian eco-logo, SeaChoice, focuses on MacEwan University now have MSC ocean health and long-term sustainability. certified sustainable seafood options at This recommendation program for wilddining halls on campus too! caught and farmed seafood is based on a traffic light system: Best Aquaculture Practices (BAP) Best Aquaculture Practices is an Go for Green – the seafood is abundant independent international certification and well managed, and caught or farmed in system covering everything from an environmentally sustainable way. environmental and social responsibility to animal welfare and food safety. Choose Yellow as an alternative when Green is not available, but avoid Red. A voluntary certification program, BAP standards are used to assess Find out more at seachoice.org, or farms, hatcheries, feed mills, seafood download the free iPhone SeaChoice app. processing plants and other facilities. BAP was developed by the Global Marine Stewardship Council Aquaculture Alliance, an international (MSC) USA-based non-profit association All seafood stamped with the MSC ecopromoting responsible aquaculture label can be traced to a sustainable fishery practices. Look for BAP-certified through the Marine Stewardship Council, brands at bap.gaalliance.org. a global international certification and ecolabeling program for wild-caught seafood.

All of these organizations’ websites include detailed lists of sustainable species, farms, and other facilities certified as sustainable. Check your seafood labels, and have a chat with your favourite grocery store, fishmonger or restaurant about their seafood sources too. If they don’t have a satisfactory answer, keep asking until you get one, so they know their customers care. Other ways to be sustainable include buying seafood that’s fresh and in season, watching portion sizes, and diversifying the types of seafood you eat. If enough of us do this, it can help reduce demand on the most wellknown and popular varieties. Just choosing to eat sustainable seafood is a step in the right direction. It will make an impact on the world’s oceans, and allow people to enjoy seafood sustainably for generations to come. Jacqueline Louie is a Calgary-based freelance writer with a keen interest in the connections between food, sustainability and optimum health.

The 14 most sustainable things to eat this summer:

The MSC website, msc.org, is chock full of good information, including tasty sustainable seafood recipes, such as Canadian Smoked Seafood Chowder, Hawaiian Ahi Poke, and Crab and Tomato Linguine. You’ll also find where to buy

– B.C. albacore tuna – B.C. sablefish, also known as black cod – Closed system farmed Arctic char – Closed system farmed rainbow trout – Farmed oysters, clams and scallops – Mussels

– Oysters – Pacific cod – Pacific halibut – Wild B.C. spot prawns – Walleye – Wild salmon 23


Ways to Spice Up Fish and Chips by MALLORY FRAYN

Fish and chips is a traditional dish that many people would argue is best left alone, but what’s the fun in that? Even though it’s only made of two components, fish and chips, there are still plenty of different takes at your disposal, like these. Who knows? You might even enjoy some of them more than the original!

1. Batter

2. Fish

The batter is probably the most critical element that can make or break a plate of fish and chips. What you are trying to avoid here is sogginess. As long as the batter is crispy, it really doesn’t matter what it’s made of. You could go with a beer batter, made from lighter wheat ale if you want the flavour of the fish to come through, or from a dark porter or stout if you want the beer to be the star. Using soda water and rice flour instead will make for a tempura style batter, while buttermilk and cornmeal will create a version of fish and chips reminiscent of corndogs.

Fish and chips is typically made with white fish, such as cod or haddock. There’s no reason why you can’t batter and fry pretty much any fish under the sun though, or more accurately, in the ocean. Halibut would make a nice (albeit more expensive) addition. Alternately you can use oilier fish like salmon, trout, or char. Regardless of the fish you use, the key is not to overcook it, or else you run the risk of it being too dry for even the most copious amount of tartar sauce to save. Keep in mind that frying times for different fish will vary, so cook accordingly.

Fish and Chips, Catch & the Oyster Bar. Photograph courtesy Dan Clapson 24


3. Cooking oil

5. Cooking method

6. Dipping sauces

The oil you choose to cook both your fish and your chips in might not be the first thing you think about altering in your fish and chips recipe, but it will alter the flavour. Make sure to choose one that has a high enough smoking point to ensure that it does not burn. Oils that are ideal for frying include:

If you think that fish and chips absolutely HAS to be fried, think again. Sure it’s the traditional way to do things, but admittedly there are some downsides to deep-frying at home. It can make a bit of a mess of your kitchen for one thing, and heavy, fried foods aren’t necessarily what you want to eat in the middle of summer.

Not a fan of tartar sauce? No problem, there are plenty of other options for dunking those crispy fish and chips into. Any sort of flavoured mayonnaise will do, especially if you start with Japanese Kewpie mayo as the base. The added sweetness and richness will have you wondering if you’re eating it for the fish and chips, or for the dip alone! Or cut the fat and take advantage of fresh summer herbs by using sauces like pesto, chimichurri, and salsa verde. Other sauce alternatives include:

–– Vegetable –– Canola –– Sunflower –– Peanut –– Grapeseed –– Rice bran

4. Chips French fries, or as the Brits call them, “chips”, seem pretty basic at first glance, but when you dig a bit deeper, you start to realize their potential. First you have to decide what type of potatoes to use – or whether you even want to use potatoes at all. You could use sweet potatoes, carrots, taro, or any other root veg as an alternative. Next, you have to figure out how you want to cut them. Do you prefer skinny frites, thicker-cut wedges, or even waffle fries? When making this decision, consider what is appropriate to pair with the fish you are using. For example, a smaller, more delicate piece of fish might be better with shoestring fries than hefty potato wedges. At the end of the day, it’s all personal preference. If it sounds tasty to you, go for it!

Make your own spin on the classic by baking or grilling your fish instead. By topping it with a crust made with some combination of panko breadcrumbs and ground-up nuts of your choice, you can keep the crispy element everyone loves about fish and chips. As for the chips, why not scrap the potatoes all together and try your hand at making vegetable chips instead? Thinly sliced portobello or cremini mushrooms, brushed lightly with oil, and baked until crispy make for an addictive snack, and are also a lighter, healthier alternative to fries.

–– Sweet and sour sauce –– Pico de gallo or other tomato based sauces or condiments –– Yogurt-based sauces, like tzatziki –– Remoulade –– Grilled corn salsa (perfect for the heart of summer!) Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat


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El Cortez

Hidden Gem Patios by ANNA BROOKS and TWYLA CAMPBELL photography by ZACHARY AYOTTE, ANNA BROOKS, INGRID KUENZEL, and MELANIE SWERDAN

In summer, we all want to eat and drink outdoors – but some well-known patios seem to get all the love. Here are four patios you may not have discovered – yet! Little Brick Café and General Store

sink. Dogs on leashes patiently wait for wayward crumbs to fall their way. The only thing missing is a posse of kids running through the sprinkler. No matter where you take a seat – on the grass, the patio or at a picnic table – at Little Brick, you always feel like you’re right at home.

El Cortez

10004 90th Street, Edmonton, littlebrick.ca

Weary shoppers, nearby workers and neighbourhood residents filter in looking for a place in the sun or a spot under an umbrella where they can rest and recharge with a cerveza. The habanero mojito is the perfect date for a plate of tuna tostados or bulgogi steak tacos.

The rooms inside Little Brick are welcoming and tastefully appointed, but during these warm-weather months, it’s the backyard where you’ll want to pull up a chair and sit a spell.

El Cortez abides by the ‘go big, or go home’ mantra. Proof is in their jawdropping interior featuring edgy murals and gang-inspired maxims scrawled on walls. The patio’s décor is all sunshine and serapes though, and more akin to a secret garden – one where Johnny Cash ballads intermingle with traditional Mexican music and where the tequila flows in place of water.

Long wooden benches snake around a large patio set with weathered furniture, but bring a picnic blanket because on sunny days, the only available spot might be the grassy expanse between the picnic tables and the fire pits. Come for an ice coffee, a cold beer or a crisp cider. The backyard breeze carries the sounds of birds chirping and dinnerware clinking in the kitchen 28

Not many people realize that the deck with two picnic tables in front of El Cortez is a decoy patio. That’s right, the real thing is in the back. You need to go inside, past the bar and out the back door. That’s where you’ll find the newly expanded, freshly astro-turfed party patio.

Little Brick Café and General Store

8230 Gateway Boulevard, Edmonton elcortezcantina.com


Cannibale

Broken City

Cannibale

On a hot summer day, there’s no doubt by 5:00 p.m. the patio at Cannibale in Bridgeland will be completely full – no matter what day of the week. With some half-price happy hour cocktails (from noon to 6:00 p.m. on weekends it’s more like happy hours), bumpin’ tunes and a roaring fireplace, this outdoor space is a little private paradise. There is even photographic evidence of patrons sitting with jackets on, happily imbibing on a late night in February. Sometimes you might see Mike Hope, owner of Murdoch’s Bar & Grill, and co-owner of the Cannibale space with Shayne Perrin (also owner of Dairy Lane and Bluestar Diner), dropping off cocktails, shades on,

Frank Sinatra likely blasting from the speakers. Formerly known as dog-spa Muttley Crue, Cannibale has one of the best patios in town. Oh, and we can’t forget about the menu. With an award-winning kitchen team, just the duck Rueben sandwich is worth coming over the bridge for. 813 1st Avenue NE, Calgary cannibale.ca

Broken City

Renowned around town as the best dive-bar in Calgary, Broken City Social Club has another little secret: a killer rooftop patio. As co-owner Andrew Brassard can attest to, there truly is no better way to spend a Sunday than lounging in the sun

with a Caesar, or enjoying breakfast under the shade of an umbrella atop Broken City. The Broken City patio is a little world of its own with washrooms, an outdoor bar, and some great aerial opportunities to people watch (they also have an amazing breakfast sandwich – add toast with homemade cashew butter). Despite recent struggles regarding the patio’s outdoor speakers, Brassard still hopes to run some special outdoor events this summer after partnering with Sled Island Music & Arts Festival. Whether you’re wearing a tie, a swimsuit, are a brunch-fanatic, or are just looking to rock out to some live music, Broken City covers all bases. 613 11th Ave SW, Calgary brokencity.ca


Step By Step: No-Churn Matcha Ice Cream by RENEE KOHLMAN

Summer. It’s something that’s synonymous with sandals and sunshine, beaches and barbecues, fire pits and fireflies, and of course, ice cream. One must eat all of the ice cream you can get your hands on during the warmer months of the year – it’s almost like it’s the law or something. Many of us likely have those jingly-jangly memories of the ice cream truck roaming the streets of 30

the suburbs throughout June, July and August. How many times did we take a break from the slip and slide out on the lawn, and run into the house to ask mom for cash so we could have our ice cream sandwiches, fudgcicles or whatever your sweet tooth happened to tingle for? You’d sit in the shade taking bite after bite, and wipe those ice cream-ridden smiles clean with your t-shirt. It was what being a kid was all about, and still is. Now that I’m a grown-up, I’ve given up on chasing down the local kid on the ice

cream truck and have taken to making my own ice cream. And no, I don’t own an ice cream maker. If I did, there’s a good chance I would never leave my house, except to buy ingredients for ice cream. I’m pretty smitten with the no-churn style of making ice cream though. All you need is a stand mixer, whipping cream, sweetened condensed milk — otherwise known as nectar of the dairy gods — and whatever mix-ins you like. Beat the whipping cream until it forms soft peaks, then beat in the condensed milk for a


minute or two, then add the mix-ins. Scrape it into a loaf pan or other freezer-safe container and freeze it until the ice cream is firm enough to scoop. That’s the method! It’s crazy simple, I know, but it’s true. Cocoa powder makes chocolate, obviously, but go ahead and fold in any fruit compotes or swirls of thick chocolate sauce, lemon curd, fruit purées, or vanilla beans scraped of their lovely seeds.

I have taken to making my own ice cream. And no, I don’t own an ice cream maker

To switch things up, I decided to hop on the matcha train and beat in some of that green tea powder. Am I ever glad I did! The bitterness from the matcha plays well with the sweetness of the condensed milk. It feels thick and luscious on the

tongue, like a good ice cream should, and that lovely pastel green is quite pretty. Ripe raspberries and strawberries would look quite smashing served alongside. Seeing as matcha is a superfood, I assume it’s also super good for me, which means this ice cream is essentially a health food and I don’t feel guilty if I eat it daily until it’s gone.

2. Beat in the sweetened condensed

I may be too old to go slip and sliding, but I can still eat ice cream just as enthusiastically as a little kid. With this simple recipe, you will too.

3. Add the matcha powder and beat until

No-Churn Matcha Ice Cream

4. Scrape the green whipped cream into

2⅓ cups (560 mL) whipping cream 1 300 mL can sweetened condensed milk 2½ Tbs matcha green tea powder

Keeps in the refrigerator for up to one month.

Serves 6-8 Total prep time 6 hours 30 minutes

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the whipping cream until soft peaks form.

milk and beat for another minute or two, until medium peaks form. The bitterness from the matcha plays well with the sweetness of the condensed milk

it is evenly incorporated and smooth. Stop once or twice to scrape the bottom and the sides of the bowl. a freezer-safe container or loaf pan. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and freeze for 6 hours or overnight. Let stand at room temperature until soft enough to scoop.

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club. Also, check out her blog sweetsugarbean.com

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Crab Tacos

Makes 5 small soft shell tacos

These tacos make a quick and easy meal to pair with a side salad, or just eat all 5 for a decadent weekday meal. 2¼ cups (275 g) fresh crab meat, large chunks 1½ cups (50 g) cabbage, thinly sliced 1 small poblano pepper, roasted, skin peeled and diced 1 small grapefruit, peeled, segmented, and roughly chopped 2 Tbs (50 g) scallion, thinly sliced 1 Tbs (15 mL) fresh lime juice 5 small tortilla shells ½ avocado 1 tsp (5 mL) olive oil 1 tsp (5 mL) fresh lime juice Garnish cilantro leaves, roughly chopped Large pinch sea salt Water to thin

1. Place crab meat in a medium bowl. 2. Thinly slice your cabbage and place in a second bowl.

3. Dice your roasted poblano pepper and place in bowl three.

Ways To Get Crabby story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

Grouchy, ill-natured, and bad-tempered – this often misunderstood crustacean has an association as the hardened soul of the ocean’s depths. How can this be? Crabs are known to be low in fat, high in protein, and contain an impressive source of vitamin B12. Is it because they make the ocean floor their home, and the hard exoskeleton and extremely strong claws give us the impression that they are not on the friendly side? 32

Well, I believe the “crabby” moniker is unfounded. How can any creature that produces such a delicious and delicate food, ever be “crabby”? The following three recipes will prove that this bottom feeder will make you anything but peevish.

4. Add your segmented grapefruit,

scallion and 1 Tbs lime juice with a pinch of sea salt to your fourth bowl and gently combine.

5. In another bowl combine the

avocado, olive oil, 1 tsp lime juice and salt, and process with a hand blender. Should be very smooth. Add small amounts of water to thin if necessary.

6. Warm the tortillas on low heat in

the oven or microwave. Place chopped cilantro in a small bowl. Serve family style or line up your bowls and build your tacos. Note: the avocado sauce can be made the day before and kept covered in the fridge and will not turn brown. Thanks lime juice!


FUELLING YYC for over 10 years. 320, 11th Ave SW Phone: 403.262.7262 www.vintagechophouse.com @vintagechopyyc

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250, 6th Ave SW Phone: 403.265.3837 www.townshipbarandgrill.com @townshipbg


Crab Burger

Makes approx 4 - 5 patties

Discover the divine crab burger. 250 g crab meat, small pieces, fresh or canned ½ red pepper, small dice 1 lemon, zested and juiced 2 Tbs (40 g) poblano pepper, roasted, peeled and roughly chopped 1 Tbs chives, chopped 1/3 cup parsley, chopped 1½ tsp dijon mustard 1 Tbs (15 mL) mayonnaise To taste sea salt ¾ tsp Old Bay seasoning (or your favourite Cajun spice mix) 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 cup (55 g) panko breadcrumbs, plus more for coating 4-5 small burger buns 4-5 lettuce leaves 1 avocado, sliced Butter for buns Parsley lemon sauce Oil for frying

Parsley Lemon Sauce

1. Combine crab, red pepper, lemon

1 cup (240 mL) mayonnaise 4 tsp (20 mL) fresh lemon juice 4 Tbs (60 g) capers, rough chop 4 Tbs parsley, chopped 2 Tbs chives, finely chopped To taste sea salt

zest, poblano pepper, chives, parsley, mustard, mayonnaise, salt and Old Bay seasoning together in a large bowl. Taste and adjust seasoning to your taste.

Mix all ingredients together.

breadcrumbs and combine.

2. Add egg and combine. Add

3. Spread more breadcrumbs on a baking sheet.

4. Form crab mixture into patties. About 100 g each makes a nice size patty.

5. Coat crab cakes in breadcrumbs

and transfer to a clean baking sheet. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or up to 1 day. This will help the patty stay together.

6. Heat oil on medium heat and

fry crab cakes until brown, about 4 minutes each side.

7. Toast and butter the buns, add

a spoon of the parsley lemon sauce, lettuce leaf, crab cake, and sliced avocado – and let the party begin. Note: Of course these crab burgers can be deconstructed and used just for the crab cakes as well as made smaller to be served as appetizers. 34


Crab Toasts

Makes 16 - 20 as an appetizer size

These toasts make a great appetizer, or you can use the meat in a sandwich or salad for a lunch, certainly improving your week. 250 g crab meat, fresh or canned 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil ½ stalk lemon grass, very finely chopped 1½ tsp fresh ginger, grated ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine 1½ Tbs capers, roughly chopped ½ cup celery leaves, roughly chopped (pale ones preferred) 1 Tbs (15 mL) mayonnaise ½ tsp Tabasco sauce To taste sea salt 16-20 slices baguette, thinly sliced and toasted Garnish lemon, zested

Crabs are known to be low in fat, high in protein, and contain an impressive source of vitamin B12

1. Heat a sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the lemon grass, ginger and garlic and cook for 5 minutes.

2. Add white wine and cook another 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.

3. In a medium bowl, add the crab

meat, celery leaves, mayonnaise and Tabasco sauce, stir to combine. Add the lemon grass mixture and stir to combine.

Escape today on our patio.

4. Spoon onto toasted baguette slices and garnish with the zest of a lemon. Note: You can use crab mixture immediately or leave in the fridge overnight. Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

For reservations call 403 268 8607 or visit heritagepark.ca


In Praise Of Lagers by DAVID NUTTALL

Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your beers I come to praise lagers, not to bury them. —Definitely not from Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar

In the 100 centuries or so that beer has been around, ales have dominated most of that history. However, lagers have been leading the way in the past 170 years or so. How and why this happened is as complicated as history itself. Essentially, ales were king in the pre-industrial age before refrigeration, when beer was made in open vats at warm temperatures. The yeast that was propagated and saved from these beers was scooped from the top of the vat because it was top fermenting. Beer brewed with this yeast at warmer temperatures defined ales. In southern Europe, when beer production eventually expanded beyond the farmhouse to larger facilities about 1,000 years ago, the excess beer was stored (in German, lager) in caves. Brewing often ended in the spring, returning in September, to avoid the heat, and stray airborne particulates of the summer months. During this 36

storage period, the remaining yeast would settle to the bottom of the barrels, and unknowingly, brewers began saving what was evolving into a bottom-fermenting yeast. When this yeast was later used to brew, they found that it worked better at cooler temperatures, and it produced some foreign flavours that would dissipate if the beer was allowed to condition for a few weeks. This second style of beer was formally identified in 1420, but only accounted for a small percentage of beer production in Europe. Being dark and murky, this beer in no way resembled today’s lagers, but in 1842, Pilsner Urquell, the world’s first clear golden lager, was born in Pilsen, in the Czech Republic. This style moved west through Bavaria and then the rest of Germany (often called pils) so fast that in a decade from 1860-1870, lager breweries tripled in number from 32 percent of total German breweries to 98 percent.

Beer was now being produced on an industrial scale and, aided by advances in refrigeration, sanitation, pasteurization, and glassware that showcased the beer, lagers looked and tasted “cleaner” than dark, fruity, and warm ales.

Lagers have been leading the way in the past 170 years

As Europe transitioned into lagers, German immigrants began to dominate brewing in the United States, creating the lager style that is still prevalent today. Likewise, while Britain was sending its navy and army abroad to make sure the sun never set on its empire, the Germans were exporting brewers to Asia, Africa, and all throughout the Americas except Canada.


Fast forward to the 1980s, and what is now known as the American and International Pale Lager is the preeminent beer in almost every country in the world, accounting for as much as 95 percent and more of market share. Name any big brewery in almost any country – lager rules.

Over 99 percent of the craft breweries in North America produce mostly ales

The recent craft beer movement arose out of a sense of rebellion to big lagers, often described as “evil, yellow, fizzy, and bland”. As a result, over 99 percent of the craft breweries in North America produce mostly ales; after all, why get into business to produce what you are rebelling against? However, those big lager breweries still account for as much as 85 percent share of the market. People are genuinely surprised to find that lager is a more diverse beer than they think. They’re not all just yellow and semi-flavourless; a well-made lager will be crisp, clean, refreshing, with a hint of spiciness from (often) noble hops. They also don’t have to be yellow; they can also range in colour from yellow all the way to black. While the Germans and Czechs have long produced a variety of lagers, craft breweries are now resurrecting these styles for the local consumer. So explore other lagers. The mainstream beers will always be with us, but try a helles, marzen, bock, dopplebock, dunkel or schwarzbier; there are many exciting styles of lagers to enjoy.

GP Brewing True North Lager Newly opened in Grande Prairie, this brewery uses as much local product as it can. A crisp yellow lager, but with more hop aroma and flavour than almost anything the big guys make. CSPC +782005 $11 6-pk cans. Pilsner Urquell This is probably the most imitated (to various degrees of success) beer on earth. Unique in its use of local saaz hops, low-protein Moravian barley, and unequalled low-mineral Pilsen water, this beer is as flavourful and refreshing as lager gets. CSPC +388900 $16 6-pk bottles. Ayinger Celebrator From Aying, Germany, this dopplebock is dark, full bodied, malty, with chocolate overtones, thanks to decoction mashing. Coming in at 6.7% ABV, this is not your standard lawnmower lager! CSPC +721429 $21 4-pk bottles. Something Brewing Schwarzbier Schwarzbier literally means “black beer” and this Red Deer brew has a chocolate/ toasty flavour from the roasted malts, but finishes lighter than you expect. CSPC +766643 $10 4-pk cans.

 

/SPIERWINEFARM @SPIERWINEFARM

CSPC 778469 | INFO@WHITEHALL.CA


#RaiseAGlassTo…being on holiday. sumacridge.com

stellersjaywines.com

blacksagevineyard.ca

Come visit us in the heart of Summerland BC for unique wine and food experiences, exceptional tours, wine tastings and picnics. Featuring wines from Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Black Sage Vineyards and Steller’s Jay Sparkling. Located in beautiful Summerland, BC.

evolvecellars.com Culinaire-July2016.pdf

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Visit our websites or call 250.494.0451

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2016-05-27

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

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Summerland’s Most Talked About Winery Open daily – 10:30am to 5:30pm 16576 Fosbery Rd, Summerland, BC 250.494.4445 Ext 1

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. . . A collection of 17 wineries and

2 cideries crafting some of the province’s best wines ... taking visitors along a meandering route and off-the-beaten path – into a world where time slows and patios beckon.

Beneath an extinct volcano and bordered by a shimmering lake is the town of Summerland, British Columbia. Rolling hills are covered by acres of colourful orchards and rows of lush, green vines that soak up the desert sun. This small farming community is home to a growing wine region, literally. Located 15 minutes north of Penticton on the shore of Lake Okanagan, Summerland has a history rich with First Nations Peoples and the Cariboo Gold Rush. Farming took root in the late 1800s with commercial orchards, and since the Kettle Valley Railway opened in 1915 the town has steadily grown into the wonderland by the lake that it is today. Summerland’s Bottleneck Drive is a collection of 17 wineries and 2 cideries crafting some of the province’s best wines. Their route meanders through vineyards and orchards, across a heritage railway, and takes visitors off the beaten path – into a world where time slows and patios beckon. One path leads to Okanagan Crush Pad Winery, owned by Christine Coletta and Steve Lornie. It’s a custom crush facility for small wine brands and home to Haywire Wines and Narrative. A modest concrete building plays multi-purpose space beside the 10-acre organic Switchback Vineyard. They farm with the future in mind, including a 312-acre Garnet Valley Ranch (20 acres planted). Okanagan Crush Pad focuses on natural wines that speak to the vineyard. Elegant reds and bright, fresh white wines come from concrete tanks, and projects include small lots from amphoras (a clay vessel used thousands of years ago). Enjoy live music as part of Bottleneck Drive’s Heard it Through the Grapevine series, or catch an educational session almost weekly. Visit them daily through October or online at www.okanagancrushpad.com.


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Around the corner on Highway 97 is Sumac Ridge, founded in 1979. The former golf course became a vineyard, as then-owners knew the site would produce high quality grapes for winemaking. In the 1980s, they produced one of BC’s first traditional method sparkling wines – and still do today. In the tasting room the towering ceilings are bejeweled with chandeliers, casting a shimmer over the room like the sun on the lake. Beneath is a sparkling wine cave where visitors can see Steller’s Jay and Pinnacle sparkling wines as they sleep, years before release. Open seven days a week, Sumac Ridge offers guided tours and hosts events all summer. Toward the lake is Sage Hills Vineyard. The Thrussell family farms organically and is Salmon Safe – no chemicals can impact nearby waterways. This 11-acre former orchard, purchased in 2006, was transformed into a vineyard with gewürztraminer, pinot gris, and pinot noir. Sage Hills sources organically-grown syrah from further south to complement the portfolio. Their small, contemporary winery boasts a cheerful tasting room overlooking Lake Okanagan and the vineyard. Low production means these wines don’t travel far, so visiting the winery is your best bet for a taste. Open daily through October. South and west along Bottleneck Drive – near those railway tracks – is Saxon Estate Winery. Named for Paul and Jayne Graydon’s English heritage, the winery has a 10-acre organic vineyard. Travel through a storybook-like setting, complete with farmland and livestock, to find a quaint tasting room and inviting patio set among the vines. Visitors will likely see one of the owners behind the counter. Sustainable practices are woven through the business from vine to bottle. Aromatic white wines and

medium body red wines make up a small but diverse portfolio. Open daily through October. North of Saxon on the lake is Evolve Cellars, opened in 2015 by Summerland wine pioneer Harry McWatters and his daughter Christa-Lee. With a focus on fresh, fruitforward wines, Evolve celebrates the province’s wine journey from yesterday through tomorrow. The vineyard has five acres of merlot, gewürztraminer, and pinot blanc and is grown with responsible farming practices. Their portfolio of wines is lively and fun. Two sunny patios overlook Lake Okanagan and the vineyard, where seasonal lunches are available from the winery restaurant. New 2015 wines include a beautifully pale rosé that begs for summer sipping. Open daily through October, with midday food service beginning in June. After a day on Bottleneck Drive visitors will find rest at at Summerland Waterfront Resort & Spa. Located on Lake Okanagan 45 minutes from Kelowna’s airport, the resort plays equal parts family vacation or couples retreat. Cycle the waterfront path, grill dinner on the barbecues, and watch the sun play across the lake before falling into bed for the best home-away-from home sleep yet. The full-service resort has a swimming pool and beach, fitness room, and conference facilities for up to 120 people. Rent a water toy or indulge at Beyond Wrapture Day Spa, luxuriating in a full-day treatment. Pick up fresh baked goods at the seasonal Bistro or visit a nearby restaurant for a local farm-to-table meal. It’s all here. With endless country roads and a story around every bend, you’ll soon see what – and who – makes Bottleneck Drive the special place it is. Take your time and stay a while. You’ll thank yourself for it.

Visit Bottleneck Drive online at www.bottleneckdrive.com for news on seasonal events and celebrations.


beyond organic Premium small lot wines from handpicked organic grapes

Sage Hills Organic Estate Vineyard & Winery 18555 Matsu Drive Summerland BC, (250) 276 4344

Hours of Operation: May 15 — November 1 Open Daily 11am — 5 pm Outside of these times, tastings available by appointment.

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Sunshine In A Bottle: Discovering Pisco

by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

While not yet considered mainstream in Alberta, one of the most mixable spirits, pisco, is waiting in the wings poised to take centre stage. It is made in Chile and Peru from distilled grapes, but specifications, and therefore profiles, differ widely: –– In Peru, pisco can be made from eight grape varieties, whereas fewer grapes are used in Chile. –– Peruvian pisco can only be distilled once and then bottled at proof, so nothing can be added. In Chile, it can be distilled as many times as desired and water can be added to reduce the proof. –– Pisco must age for a minimum of three months, and cannot be aged in wood in Peru, whereas Chilean pisco can be aged in barrels.

Like wine, there are two types of pisco: Acholado – a blend of different varietals and vintages, and Puro – produced from a single grape variety.

Pisco picks: Campo De Encanto Pisco Quebranta, Peru Aromatic and creamy on the palate. Just add an olive for a perfect martini. CSPC +1941 $65 Pisco Queirolo Acholado, Peru Scents of fresh green grapes, and almost wine-like on the nose. Sip on its own or mix in cocktails. CSPC +776065 $38 Campo De Encanto Pisco Moscatel, Peru Sweet aromas of apple, pear and honey, and on the palate too. Sip on its own. CSPC +587642 $62

Piscojito Piscojito was created at Inti Restaurant by co-owner Angela Puccinelli. The unusual addition of ginger ale adds depth and a little warmth to this refreshing cocktail.

The recipe calls for only a small amount of pisco so you can enjoy the flavours, and drink two or three cocktails without getting piscoed!

1 oz Pisco 2 oz lime juice, fresh pressed 7 large mint leaves 4 oz simple syrup Splash of ginger ale 1/4 lime to garnish Mint leaves to garnish Ice cubes

Crush or muddle the mint leaves to release the oils, then add ice, simple syrup, and pisco, and shake in a cocktail shaker.

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Pour into a rocks glass and top with ginger ale to taste. Garnish with lime chunks and whole mint leaves.

Pisco Aba, Chile Jasmine aromas, tangerine and honey flavours. Silky and sweet, perfect for Pisco Sour. CSPC +709076 500 mL $28 Kappa Pisco, Chile Double-distilled and almost vodka-like. Easy to drink, and ideal for cocktails. CSPC +759971 $63 Torres Chile Pisco El Gobernador, Chile Fragrant scents of little white flowers. Very versatile, and ideal for a variety of cocktails. CSPC +844803 $35


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The Magic of Fino and Manzanilla by MARGAUX BURGESS

There is no surprise in the wine world quite like discovering dry sherry. Completely unique, it can be difficult to believe it is a wine – and even more improbable after that first taste of Fino – to believe it is in any way related to those dusty blue bottles of Harvey’s Bristol Cream languishing around the world. Sherry is most decidedly not the warm, sickly sweet stuff of great-aunts and grandmothers.

Hidalgo 44

Sherry is a dry, fortified wine from the far corner of southwestern Spain in Andalucía, closer to Africa than to Barcelona. The region where sherry is created, the Marco de Jerez is a

triangle-shaped area of three towns. The largest, Jerez de la Frontera is at the top, and the heart of the region. Reaching west and perched on the Atlantic Ocean, is Sanlucar de Barrameda, and the triangle is completed with the smaller, southerly town of Puerto de Santa Maria.


Hidalgo

It is here that sherry is woven into everyday life, as important as bullfighting and flamenco, two other particularly Spanish pursuits that also originated in the Marco de Jerez. To understand sherry, it is important to know a little of not only the region but also how it is made. Dry sherry is made from the palomino fino grape, and this is the only region in the world that can coax such quality out of such a lackluster participant. The first key to sherry is fortification. Before aging, a small amount of grape spirit is added to raise

Tio Pepe

In any Jerez restaurant you will see the telltale flash of green on very nearly every table. Inherent to the Andalucian culture, Tio Pepe is the beverage that sees the people of Jerez through lunch and life. Tio Pepe is aged in solera in Jerez for a minimum of four years, with the protective flor covering ensuring an elegant and aromatic wine. Lemon zest, green apple and bitter almond make for a perfect pairing with a bowl of olives and a handful of marcona almonds. CSPC +242669 $19 46

the alcohol level of the wine. This determines what style of sherry will be produced: Fino or Oloroso. Oloroso is a complex oak and oxygen influenced wine, fortified to a minimum of 17 percent alcohol. Fino has a lower level of fortification, to a minimum of 15 percent, and thus is able to support a biological covering called “flor”. The flor ensures the aging sherry is protected from oxygen and matures into a delicate, complex and refreshing wine. The second key to sherry is the solera, a system of fractional blending

Hidalgo – La Gitana Manzanilla

As Tio Pepe is the standard bearer for Fino, Hidalgo – La Gitana is for Manzanilla. La Gitana is made from estate vineyards in Balbaina and Miraflores and matures in solera in Sanlucar de Barrameda for an average of at least five years. Proximity to the Atlantic Ocean allows the constant sea breezes to give La Gitana a refined delicacy and refreshing salinity. Citrus, chamomile and bright acidity ensure there is no better match for tomato salad and langoustines. CSPC +766404 375ml $16

and aging that provides a wine with the complexity of age and brightness of youth. As the oldest wine is taken out, the solera is topped up with younger wines. It is a dynamic system, with the older wines sharing their characteristics with the younger wines. Fino and Manzanilla, those sherries aged under flor, often average between four and seven years of age, with some as old as ten years. There are soleras in the Marco de Jerez that have been uninterrupted since the 19th Century, with wines averaging in excess of 100 years of age. Fino and manzanilla share many similarities, the difference between them is that all of this happens in two different towns of the Marco de Jerez. Fino is produced by the bodegas (wineries) of Jerez de la Frontera, while manzanilla can be made only on the coast in Sanlucar de Barrameda. By being so close to sea, the flor has the ability to grow more profusely giving the wine a unique flavour profile. While both are pale and bright, fino has more citrus, apple and almonds with herbal undertones. Manzanilla is more LA GITANA botella y catavinos


delicate, with chamomile, green apple and bread dough aromatics and a refreshing, ever-so-slight salinity on the palate. The wines of Jerez, while remaining under-appreciated by most wine drinkers are some of the most complex and historic wines available. They are also a source of extreme value, given the age and quality. Sit in the sun, get a bowl of olives and a copita of manzanilla, as the Spanish do, and discover the magic of sherry.

summer is hot, but you know whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cool?

Where to drink sherry in Calgary and Edmonton: Ox and Angela, Calgary

While not focused on any one region of Spain, you will find a menu created with a dedication to authenticity. Ox and Angela also has the best sherry list in Alberta, and a properly prepared pan con tomate. For some reason this is notoriously difficult to find outside of Spain. A must have with a glass of chilled fino!

Woodwork, Edmonton

The classic cocktail renaissance played an integral role in the resurgence of sherry. Woodwork is one of the best places to get outstanding sherry based cocktails. You will find passionate bartenders who know how to best work with the flavour profile of sherry and understand how it transforms a cocktail.

Bar Clementine, Edmonton

Opening in July is Bar Clementine, brought to you by Edmonton cocktail collective The Volstead Act. Evan, Andrew and Jordan have a history of utilizing sherry expertly in the classics, and creating new cocktails showcasing its complexity. That will continue in the bricks and mortar location with sherry playing a major role.

asian noodles inspired by prairie flavours.

10350 124 St, NW Edmonton, AB 780-705-1777

Margaux Burgess is a certified Sherry educator, sommelier, speaker, and event leader based in Edmonton, Canada. She runs Lingua Vina Sommelier Services and can be contacted at margaux@linguavina.com

www.prairienoodleshop.ca @yegnoodles


Making The Case:

Summer Lovin’ by TOM FIRTH

Summertime rocks. Aside from the occasional hail, maybe a windstorm, and the very, very occasional snow, one is virtually guaranteed to have clear blue skies, hot, dry days, and evenings that are comfortable well after the sun goes down. In short, our summers are made to be enjoyed. As for wine, although hotter weather usually calls for lighter fare rather than a stew or heavy sauce, the enthusiasm that Albertans have for the barbecue or smoker ensures that we still eat plenty of big, meaty dishes that scream out for red wine – even if the thermometer reads 30º C or higher.

Recommended below are a couple of pinot noirs which pair with almost anything, along with a pair of malbecs for the steak fan. Whites for summer can easily show a little sweetness, but I’m more than happy to recommend some viognier or sparkling wine to enjoy while chilling out… Speaking of chilling out…time to get on that deck!

Tom Gore 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon California Nicely dialed-in cabernet delivering spice box, graphite, cherry, and cassis aromas. In the mouth, a fruit-driven, chocolatey, cherry dessert sort of cab. Very easy-going, I can think of a few friends and family that would make this a barbecue staple. CSPC +776801 $19

Luigi Bosca 2013 Finca La Linda Old Vines Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina From 50 year-old vines, it’s black, almost inky to look at it, but cherry and blackberry aromas rest over pepper spice, tar, and herb leaf. Quite spicy, and yes, quite tannic, but I’m thinking anything charred or smoked on the grill will be a welcome match. CSPC +869685 $18

Black Hills 2014 Viognier Okanagan Valley, BC While Nota Bene might get all the attention from Black Hills, it’s the viognier I’m digging, with a deep and varied floral bouquet, some lifted peach and apricot fruits, and a touch of spice. In the mouth, there is a touch of oily textures balanced by a little bitterness at the finish. Don’t serve too cold, but would work with a nibble on the deck. CSPC +746273 $32 48


Chateau Pesquié 2013 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Rhone, France

Chateau Pesquié 2015 Terrasses Blanc Ventoux, France

Luigi Bosca 2013 Terroir Los Miradores Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

Dessert wine? In summer? You betcha! Pear fruits with Meyer lemon, honey, and melon on the nose, the palate has some noticeable sweetness, but enough acids to keep it balanced. Loving the silky texture and wonderful finish. Serve with apricot or pear desserts, or some nice cheese. CSPC +764011 $26

A blend of viognier, roussanne, and clairette, this positively bursts out of the glass with white blossom and citrus with a slight scent of a basket of cherries. Juicy, and oh-so-fresh, it's super tasty and should be a go-to bottle for the summer. Pair with white meat or grilled veggies. CSPC +749289 $17

Malbec is exceptionally responsive to different terroirs and in recent years, many winemakers have been noting the potential of finding every nuance in the vineyard. A delicious bottle of malbec here with crushed stone, black fruit, and hints of raisins. On the palate it is intense, but with so much going on. CSPC +766009 About $33-34

Castoro d’Oro 2013 Merlot Okanagan Valley, BC

Langlois-Chateau NV Brut Loire, France

Langlois-Chateau 2013 Sancerre Rouge Loire, France

I do love my Okanagan merlots. This example is a little different, featuring more smoky characters than I was expecting. Jelly fruits of plum and currant with sage, pepper spice, clove, and a garrigue surprise. Big fruits and a fine balance of tannin and acid should drink well this summer, but also with a few more years in the cellar. CSPC +777837 $26

The sort of sparkling wine that should be an everyday occurrence. Honey and woolly aromas with lemon zest, ice wafer, and a mild biscuit character. Zippy and tight on the palate with lemon cream flavours, flintiness and a long, quaffable finish. CSPC +588780 $24

Quite chocolatey and bursting with raspberries, liquorice, and wild strawberries, along with a pinch of earthiness on the nose. Flavours are remarkably consistent with smooth-edged tannins, bright fruit and lovely balance. Pinot, it goes with everything – and this should too. CSPC +771231 $32

Meyer Family Vineyards 2014 McLean Creek Pinot Noir, Okanagan Falls, BC

Atteca 2013 Old Vines Grenache Calatayud, Spain

Haywire 2013 Switchback Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, BC

Truly one of the great pinots coming out of BC these days, loved by the wine trade and people in the know, it’s also winning kudos from the international press. The 2014 pinot noir is all you want in a restrained, modern pinot with clean fruits and only a touch of herb or vegetable leaf on the nose. World-class for sure. CSPC +758284 $42

Spain is a solid choice for summertime red wine, but also a star when it comes to pairing with grilled meats, pork, or something a little spicy. Sourced from old vines, there is plenty of complexity on nose and palate, with raspberry and earthy cherry fruits, loads of spice and a savoury character that just begs for food. CSPC +729032 $25

Sure there are some people who think that pinot gris should just be cheap and cheerful, but others are happy to see what this noble grape can achieve at its heights. Bursting with honey, peach, and soap stone/mineral tones, it has a gooey, almost creaminess about it. Save it for the weekend with poultry, grilled pork, or on its own. CSPC +745280 $29 49


signs, and make him ride around the neighbourhood and be my marketing department,” she laughs. While studying business at the university, Rempel also worked parttime at Calgary’s Hard Rock Café, but enjoyed it so much that she decided not to complete her studies. Within a year she was managing the nightclub, booking bands and large parties, and learning about functions and marketing. She had planned to work for a while and then return to university, but instead she found a job at 4th Street BRZ to run Lilac Festival.

Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“I’ve always let life take me where I’m supposed to go,” says Jennifer Rempel of 4th Street BRZ and many Calgary festivals. “I think okay, if this is what I’m supposed to be, then life will take me that way – and it has.” Growing up in Calgary, Rempel was an entrepreneur and hard worker from a very young age. At eight years old, she would sell sniffs of her scratch and sniff stickers on the side of the road. "If I did have a lemonade stand, I would deck out my brother’s bicycle in balloons and 50

“So here I am 16 years later. When I started Lilac Festival it was six blocks and very community-based, and now it’s 13 blocks and citywide, with 125,000 people if the weather is warm. As it’s grown, I’ve also grown and it’s grown with me,” she says. “I have a belief that Calgary needs free events, I think that there’s a market, and room in Calgary for free things for people to do.” Sharing the same belief in free events, in 2006 Rempel and her husband started Fiestaval, a free Latin festival in Olympic Plaza, and three years later launched in Red Deer too. In 2013 Rempel took time off to have a baby, but smiles and says, “I had a C-section on May 5 and Lilac Festival was on May 25 – and I was there, that’s how diehard I am.” A year later, Inglewood approached her to take over Sunfest and the night market, and six months ago the Rempels finalised the purchase of Taste of Calgary. “I’m excited to become a major food and beverage festival,” she says. “I’ve been through creating an event, and I know how difficult that is, so I’m excited that I get to grow something that has already had a lot of love.” So what bottle is Rempel saving for a special occasion? In 2011, the couple spent three weeks in Italy. “I really wanted to travel lightly,”

she says, “but as we started eating and drinking, I realised that our small suitcases weren’t going to allow us to cart much home.” They had taken photos of the wines they’d been drinking, and afterwards were able to buy some of them in Calgary. On special occasions over the years, they’ve opened the bottles and now there is just one bottle left, a Monteti 2008 Toscana. “I had read that there was a Prada outlet just south of Florence, and I needed to find this outlet,” says Rempel. “There were no signs so we stopped to have lunch, and I remember we were drinking this wine.” They finally found the outlet, but she continues, “The wine didn’t come home with me because the purse ended up coming home with me!” And when might Rempel open the bottle? Rempel and her husband married in Cuba, and now they’re thinking of having a Canadian ceremony. “We’re talking about next spring, renting a community hall and having a great party,” she says, “and it would be a great time to open the bottle.”


Straight Up, Over Ice Or With A Slice

Watch your tail. Enjoy [yellow tail] responsibly.

Culinaire 5:3 (July:Aug 2016)  

Alberta's freshest food and beverage magazine celebrating summer, seafood, festivals, and grilling. Dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spiri...

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