MAKING THE CASE Summer is calling

By TOM FIRTH

May you live in interesting times” goes the saying – of somewhat murky origin, and certainly this has been the case so far this year. But if you are still looking for, and hopefully enjoying, interesting wine – I hope the ones on these pages work for you.

We are keeping with some more Canadian picks with a few more bottles from Ontario and Nova Scotia, but also warm weather ready bottles from Australia, France, Spain and Portugal – all fine bottles for when the Celsius is north of 20 degrees. Including some very well-made Cava – the sparkling wines of Spain, which are no stranger to a dry palate in a hot summer. It may seem tough to navigate some of the global trade issues, and who benefits most from your discretionary purchases, but this is as good a time as any to take the chance to try something new from somewhere outside your tried and true previous locations of choice. In the spirit of interesting times being a both a blessing and a curse, a tired palate might find something to excite.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve 2020 Pinot Noir, ShortHills Bench, Ontario

Ontario is continuing to show the world that some of the best pinot noirs to be found around the globe are coming from the cooler climates of Niagara and places like Prince Edward County. Subtle, sleek and sexy with a perfume-like floral character, gentle herb leaf, and polished, restrained cherry fruits. In the mouth it’s balanced, lengthy and absolutely delicious. A top notch pinot for sure.

CSPC 657874 $52-55

Dominio de Fontana 2021 Oveja Tinta Graciano-Malbec, Castille, Spain

A phenomenal blend of two grapes rarely seen together, that also brings out the best of both. Brightly laden with fruit and a mild woolly note to go with plum and spice flavours. Highly enjoyable to drink, and certainly a breath of fresh air too with tight acids, balance between earth and fruit notes, and plenty of versatility with food too. CSPC 879443 $21-25

Domaine de Bachellery 2022 Pinot Noir, South of France

A bit of an unusual pinot noir from the south of France where the heat of the region is making a pinot that brings a little cocoa and smoke to the cherry and raspberry fruits, along with fine spice notes and a slight meatiness. Very well priced, with distinctive pinot noir character, but also the versatility that pinot noir is known for when matching with food – goes with almost anything! I’d want to try this with grilled red meats. CSPC 775795 $22-25

Wild Rock 2024 Red Blend, Nova Scotia

A proprietary blend from the big brains at Benjamin Bridge, centered around cabernet franc and gamay, two grapes I love, but don’t see much of from Nova Scotia. Leaner fruits with graphite, cedar, pepper and spice box, with a rather floral backbone on the nose. Lighter bodied with mild but grippy tannins, and fruit that is restrained and supported by intense spiciness. Really enjoyed this one, and it would be great with smoked meats, or grilled steaks.

CSPC 110220 $26-28

Dominio de Fontana 2020 Tempranillo-Syrah, Castille, Spain

These two red grapes really seem to play off each other well in this particular blend, with the red fruits and citrus aromas of tempranillo playing off a traditional approach of savoury and spicy syrah. Flavours are fruit-rich and almost juicy, with zippy acids and good tannin weight. An easy pairing with beef or pork, and a wine that can handle a little spice too.

CSPC 879444 $20-24

Silk & Spice 2021 Red Blend, Portugal

Portugal is rife with uncommon and indigenous grapes, which honestly make its wines unique and some of the most authentic in the world. Fruits lean towards cherries and plum here with a gentle smokiness and dried herbal character on the nose. Very well balanced in the mouth with tasty fruit tones, complex spices, and agreeable tannins too. A little off the beaten path, but a tasty, versatile wine to enjoy at a great price.

CSPC 805184 $15-17

Poema NV Brut Rosé Cava Penedes, Spain

Speaking of cava enjoying some renewed attention, it’s a pleasure to find this one here made entirely from the trepat grape – an uncommon variety, almost entirely found in Catalonia. A pale, coppery colour in the glass, the nose is raspberry and blueberry with cranberry and a mild chocolatey undercurrent. Fine balance of fruit flavours and a hint of sweet fruit on the mid palate, it’s a treat slightly cooled, but not cold.

CSPC 782880 $19-21

BLK + BLU Blend No. 4, Heathcote, Australia

A relatively uncommon blend of shiraz and cabernet and from the same folks making Angus the Bull, comes the BLK + BLU. A big ol’ fruit bomb, with an abundance of ripe, rich berry fruits, but also a bit of tar and tobacco to go with cedar and spice. Pure, fresh, and balanced on the palate with all those fruits, but none of the sweeter characters the “plush” wines can have. A barbecue all-star, this is a match with grilled red meats, a nice plate of cheese, or a hot day.

CSPC 121784 $40-44

Silk and Spice 2021 White Blend, Portugal

Another extremely well-priced and summer friendly wine from Portugal, the blend here is still undisclosed, however it’s brightly laden with melon style fruits, citrus, spices, and a bit of richness and texture over the mid palate. An easy wine to enjoy, I’d caution against serving too chilled, but it can be served cold too, so allow it to warm up slightly. Tested out with some good halibut to fine effect, and this also works with sushi, or a nice brie.

CSPC 888843 $15-17

Poema NV Brut Cava, Penedes, Spain

Cava is in the midst of a pretty amazing transition. Still made using traditional grapes, more producers are playing around with traditional method sparkling processes, adjusting aging, and in most cases, a laudable focus on quality. Match that with the prices and it’s easy to see why it’s gaining in popularity. Yellow apple fruits with a rich, vanilla scent dominate the nose, but it’s on the palate that this clean and zesty – yet not too lean wine really shines. A fine sipper on its own, it’s very enjoyable too with seafood or light snacks.

CSPC 770313 $19-21

Mathieu & Camille Lapierre 2023 Le Beaujolais, Burgundy, France

The wines of Beaujolais are so much more than the (yes, fun) plonk of Beaujolais Nouveau of November, and primarily led by a number of forward thinking, smaller producers bringing modern techniques and energy while working with the singular permitted red grape of the appellation. This full and intense gamay is bursting with strawberry and black pepper, cherry and floral perfume too. A premium, delicious wine.

CSPC 867378 $45-48

Jasci & Marchesani 2023 Rosato, Abruzzo, Italy

One of those delicious rosés that instantly transport you to some sort of old world plaza, basking in the sun while watching life unfold at a slower pace. Very much bone dry, with restrained fruits, a clean herbaciousness and a little bit of rhubarb character – imagine a watermelon jolly rancher – with zero sweetness. A leader in organic winemaking and also committed more than most to sustainability. One more plus? Excellent at the table too.

CSPC 836586 $22-25

Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve 2021 Baco Noir, Ontario

It’s easy to overlook baco noir, a hybrid grape that was uniquely suited to growing in the earlier days of Ontario winemaking. As skill sets and site selection improved for plantings of the grape, the evolution of the grape quality is pretty amazing to experience over time. Here, look for slightly chocolatey raspberry and blueberry fruit, with dried cherries and a touch of earth on both palate and nose. Silkier fruits on the finish, and agreeable tannins really tie it all together. This would be a gem on the table with homemade burgers.

CSPC 461694 $34-38