A Good Ribbing

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

Here’s something to chew on: it was only within the last 100 years or so that barbecue ribs as we know them gained popularity. Before that – and before refrigeration – pork was primarily packaged in wood barrels, and butchers couldn’t fit the spare ribs. This meant in places where hogs were being packed and processed, ribs were priced incredibly cheap, or completely free of charge.

Around the world, the ribs of various animals are also consumed alongside those of pork, and include goat, ostrich, alligator, and kangaroo. Here in Alberta, we’re a little tamer, but that doesn’t stop our chefs from providing tips and tricks to make some of the juiciest, most flavourful ribs in the province.

“Some of my earliest memories are of watching my grandmother by the wood fire,” says Chef Shiv Negi of Your Spot Barbecue in Edmonton. “There were no shortcuts, just instinct and patience. That’s where I first understood the soul of the barbecue.” Working in the United States, he learned the craft of slow cooking, and it was in Eastern Europe that he came to recognize the importance of simple ingredients and cooking from the heart.

For Chef Shiv, cooking ribs is an art that anyone can master with a few things in mind. “Use a dry rub and let it sit, ideally overnight, so that the flavours soak in,” he begins. “If you’re grilling, use hickory or applewood chips, but if you’re indoors a touch of liquid smoke adds nice depth.”

Simple Baby Back Ribs are a great way to get back into grilling this season. “This recipe brings together everything I’ve learned over the years,” explains Chef Shiv. “It’s simple and honest. Let the flavours speak for themselves.”

“Good ribs aren’t just food,” he adds, “they’re a reason to gather. Fire up the grill, share a meal, and enjoy homemade BBQ sauce.”

Simple Baby Back Ribs at Home

Serves 4

2 racks baby back ribs

Your favourite BBQ sauce

Apple juice or water in a spray bottle

For the rub

2 cups white sugar

1 cup fine salt

½ cup ground cumin

½ cup ground black pepper

½ cup mustard powder

Combine all together and mix them nicely.

1. Remove the thin membrane on the back of the ribs (use a paper towel to grip it) and pat them dry.

2. Rub the spice mix all over the ribs. Let them sit for at least 30 minutes — overnight is even better.

3. Wrap ribs in foil and bake at 250° F for 2 hours. Every 30 minutes, spray with apple juice or water to keep them moist.

4. Unwrap the ribs, brush on BBQ sauce, and finish them on a hot grill or under the broiler for 5–10 minutes until the sauce gets sticky and caramelized. 5. Let the ribs rest for 10 minutes, then slice and enjoy.

Alex Sang-Ho Kwon, Chef and owner of SOT in Calgary, is a fan of tradition. “I like to start with flavours and combinations like foie gras with Sauternes, kimchi and pork, or fish and soy sauce. Then I add my own colour and flavour to them.”

His favourite dishes at SOT, the Beef Bulgogi and Braised Short Ribs, are reflections of his dedication and attention to detail. “It took me almost half a year to adjust the recipes and I think they are some of the best bulgogi and short ribs you can find in town.”

When it comes to braising, Chef Alex says it’s important to braise the ribs first. “This adds the depth of flavour to them and adds to the final texture.” And while it takes more time and effort than grilling a steak, you can feed more people for less money.

“Braised short ribs used to be a feast dish in Korea back in the days. I re-created the cooking method by using the oven instead of simmering in a pot. It makes the meat more tender and juicy.”

If you have the time, he says the short ribs can be brined overnight in salt and sugar water, like they do in-house at SOT. “Any roasted root vegetables can be added to the dish with braising liquid. Also, feel free to add any butter or spiciness to it if you like them!”

SOT Braised Beef Short Ribs

Serves 4

1.75 kg boneless chuck flat

To taste salt and pepper

1 large onion

2 Tbs ginger

1 large Asian pear

1 bunch green onions

1 cup (250 mL) soy sauce

1 cup brown sugar

6 cups (1.5 L) beef stock

10 garlic cloves

1 chopped carrot

200 g Asian radish

Green onion, chopped, for garnish

Sesame seeds, for garnish

1. Trim excess fat and silver skin on meat.

2. Season with salt and pepper, and sear or grill the meat on high until dark brown, and let it cool.

3. Cut the meat into 140 g pieces.

4. Blend onion, ginger, Asian pear, green onions, soy sauce, and brown sugar.

5. Boil beef stock with liquid from onion ginger blend above, garlic cloves, carrot, and Asian radish.

6. Place seared and cut chuck flat into an oven-safe pot and pour over boiling braising beef, onion, ginger liquid blend above.

7. Cover with parchment paper, foil, and the pot lid.

8. Set the oven at 275º F and braise for 4.5 hours or until tender. It may vary with ovens. If using a convection oven, then braise for 3 hours.

9. Once cooked, take the pot out of the oven, uncover, let it sit at room temperature for 1 hour.

10. Place the short ribs and braising liquid on the plate, and finish with chopped green onion and sesame seeds.

“I’m inspired by the emotional connection food creates, and how a dish can comfort, surprise, or transport someone,” says Chef Lancelot Monteiro. “I try to let each plate speak with honesty and intention.”

As Head Chef at the Prow at Buffalo Mountain Lodge, he believes that good food doesn’t need to be complicated, just thoughtful. His favourite dish, The Prow Salad, is a perfect example of this: house-made white anchovy and roasted garlic vinaigrette, topped with a grilled chicken breast.

But we’re here for meat, and Chef Lancelot knows a thing or two about that, too. “Alberta has access to excellent quality pork and beef, so start with the best ribs you can source. It makes all the difference.”

Ready to get a little wild? Try this recipe for BBQ Wild Boar Ribs. “I wanted something that blends the rich flavour of Alberta boar with some of the classic smoky-sweet profiles I love from Southern-style barbecue,” he explains. “This is simple enough for a home cook but delivers restaurant quality flavour.”

Finish with a good barbecue sauce and caramelize them on the grill, he advises. “And most importantly, let your ribs rest before cutting. That’s when the juices settle and texture finishes perfectly.”

BBQ Wild Boar Ribs (with House Rib Rub)

Serves 4

Rib Rub:

Makes about 1 cup, enough for 2–3 rib racks

½ cup (about 8 Tbs) brown sugar

1½ tsp salt

2 Tbs black pepper

1 Tbs + 1 tsp chili powder

1 Tbs + 1 tsp sweet paprika

1 Tbs garlic powder

2 tsp onion powder

2 tsp red chili powder

1. Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix thoroughly.

2. Store in an airtight container. Keeps well for weeks in a cool, dry place.

Rib Preparation (for 2 racks of Wild Boar Side ribs):

2 racks wild boar side ribs or pork back ribs

½ cup of the rub (or enough to coat generously)

4 cups (1 L) chicken stock

1 medium yellow onion, julienned

1. Prep the ribs: remove the silver skin from the back of the ribs. Pat dry.

2. Apply rub: coat both sides of the ribs generously with the rib rub. Wrap and refrigerate overnight (or at least 4 hours).

3. Cook low and slow: Preheat oven to 275º F. Place ribs meat-side up on top of the julienned onions, pour chicken stock in the bottom of the roasting pan (about 4 cm), then wrap the pan tightly with aluminum foil.

4. Bake for 3.5 hours.

5. Glaze & finish: unwrap ribs. Brush with your choice of BBQ sauce (we make a saskatoon and whisky BBQ sauce at the Prow). Let ribs rest 10-15 minutes before slicing. Finish on the grill with more BBQ sauce.

Chef Joel Harris, Executive Chef and owner of Calgary’s Aloha Modern Kitchen, just can’t quit the Hawaiian way of life, and we’re all the better for it. “The islands of Hawaii are my constant inspiration for my cooking. I look to old recipes and pay tribute to the cultures and people of Hawaii, using fresh and local produce from local farms.”

Spam Musubi brings back memories of days spent surfing: “It always made the best snack after a good surf session.”

Huli Huli chicken takes him back to Maui with the smell of burning wood akin to sunset fires on the beach.

“The Maui Ribs I’m sharing here is a dish that is near and dear to my heart,” he adds. “Cooking these ribs over an open fire after a long day at the beach, Ohana surrounding the table – the smell takes me back to Hawaii and the time in my life that shaped me into the chef I am today.”

There’s no low and slow here, unless you count the two or three days needed for marinating. “Grill them first at a very high heat to get the char needed, then move them to the top rack to continue cooking the rest of the way.” They’re done quickly, which makes them an excellent choice for a hungry crowd.

“Get your local butcher to cross-cut the short rib about 2.5 cm thick for the perfect ribs!”

Aloha Maui Ribs

Serves about 4 people

1 kg cross-cut short kalbi-style ribs about 2.5 cm thick (two packs of crosscut short ribs at a store)

1 cup sugar

1 cup (250 mL) soy sauce

5 garlic cloves smashed

2.5 cm ginger, peeled and sliced

1 Tbs toasted sesame seeds

1. Mix all ingredients together apart from the ribs, making sure all the sugar is dissolved into the soy sauce.

2. Add the cross-cut short ribs (kalbi style).

3. Place everything in a bowl to marinate for 2 to 3 days before grilling.

4. If you're short of time, you can let them marinate for 5 hours or overnight.

5. Grill ribs at a very high heat first to get the char needed. Then move them to the top rack to slowly cook the rest of the way.

These ribs don’t take long at all depending on the cut of the short rib you are using, but it's usually 10 to 15 minutes of total cooking time.