A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S N OV E M B E R 2 02 2
Holiday Gift Guide | Exploring Filipino Cuisine | Spiced Salads
Volume 11 / No. 6 / November 2022
Salutes and Shout Outs
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks
News from Alberta’s culinary scene
Exploring Filipino Cuisine
Making the Case
For Uncommon Grapes, Regions, and Expressions
Open That Bottle
With Mathieu Pare, Executive Director of the Canadian Beef Centre of Excellence
Regenerating the city with fresh soil and people power Highfield Farm by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
ON THE COVER We’re shining a spotlight on the food of the Philippines this issue, as while it’s widely available, it’s possibly the least well known of southeast Asian cuisines. Thanks very much to Amihan Grill + Bakeshop’s Chef Ryan Tiqui for this mouthwatering dish of lemongrass chicken soup and to photographer, Dong Kim, for capturing it perfectly!
Step by Step
Tender and juicy Moroccan Meatballs by Renée Kohlman
Artisans of the Markets
Brewing in Changing Times
Culinaire Holiday Gift Guide 19 gifts for your food and drink-loving family and friends by Culinaire Magazine
Spicy Salads to Keep you Warm
Add salads to your family favourite recipes along with your winter stews and soups by Natalie Findlay
Farmer’s markets are a hub for local small artisans all year round by Carmen Cheng What’s brewing on the beer scene in 2023 and beyond? by David Nuttall
Time to change things up a little… by Tom Firth and Linda Garson November 2022 | Culinaire 3
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
sn’t it just? One of the most prolonged and beautiful that I can remember in recent years, with the leaves hanging around on the trees and showing off their golden colours in the soft light – we do autumn so well in Alberta! Our farmers’ markets are busy and bustling, with fresh produce and artisan producers, and in this issue we’ve highlighted some local vendors well worth getting to know. It certainly feels like things are booming, even if we’re told the economy is weak; the festivals and events that we’ve missed for the last two years are almost all back and all buzzing, and new restaurant openings continue unabated.
I’ve tried several new restaurants this week, and I know of several more about to burst onto our vibrant restaurant scene, but I’m really sorry to hear that people are still booking reservations and just not showing up, with no word or cancellation. I can’t believe you’d do that as you’re reading Culinaire, but it saddens me that some people still just don’t get it, and don’t realise how their thoughtless actions can impact our hospitality industry. If you are making reservations, please do show up or have the courtesy to cancel in good time? Apparently the cool weather’s on its way, so we’re looking forward to spicing up our food, and in this issue we’re exploring what seems to be the least known of all
the southeast Asian cuisines – food from the Philippines. A quick search around the internet reveals that there’s no shortage of Filipino restaurants (Restaurant Guru have 57 logged in Calgary and 74 in Edmonton!) but they seem to be a well-kept secret with many people not able to name a Filipino dish. Hopefully we can help remedy that and you enjoy learning about it! Cheers,
Linda, Editor-in-Chief CORRECTION:
In our last issue, we have a few corrections from our Alberta Beverage Awards results. We mistakenly listed the origin for Flor de Caña, which should have been shown as being from Nicaragua, and we incorrectly listed the name of Peace River Brewing with their wins. We apologise for the errors and thank those who let us know of them.
When the party calls for BYOB. (Bring your own board)
Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson firstname.lastname@example.org Managing Editor Tom Firth email@example.com Multimedia Editor Keane Straub firstname.lastname@example.org Sales Tara Zenon 403-472-1345 email@example.com Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Carmen Cheng Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Dong Kim Renée Kohlman, David Nuttall Keane Straub
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 firstname.lastname@example.org @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our contributors Carmen Cheng
Coming from a long line of food lovers and notorious overorderers, Carmen has always loved to eat and try different dishes. Through sharing food, she’s gained exposure to her Chinese-Canadian family’s stories and traditions, and learns about different cultures through understanding and honouring their culinary stories. She will try pretty much any food and shares her food adventures on various forms of media including print, online, and television.
Gold vibes only
After a brief period with an Easy Bake Oven, Natalie’s mom allowed her to use the big girl’s oven and set her on the course for a life filled with delicious outcomes. Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, Natalie has worked in restaurants, hotels, bakeries, and her own business. Currently, Natalie is a freelance writer, recipe developer, and photographer, and is loving every minute of it.
Freelance writer and photographer, Keane is based out of Calgary. They have travelled from Tofino, BC, to Charlottetown, PEI, and tried a lot of local flavour along the way. While beer is their go-to, they won’t say no to a good gin and tonic. A storyteller at heart, they find building LEGO therapeutic, and enjoy hiking, teaching photography basics, and reading about Mount Everest. Find them on Instagram @keane_larsen, or their website keanestraub.com.
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Congratulations to Calgary’s TOPS Pizza and Steakhouse on their 50th birthday! They’re celebrating with a new look ... more details soon! Inglewood has two new dining spots. Business & Pleasure has opened behind Neighbour Coffee, and it’s a lovely, warm and intimate space; all black and wood with just 21-seats. Chef Dylan Philion’s (formerly at Notable) small menu offers tasty tapas-style snacks (try the tuna tartare and shrimp ceviche!), and they’ll create a unique custom cocktail just for you! 1327b 9 Avenue SE, Calgary. Wednesday-Saturday, 4-late. Just down the road, Joodam has opened in the old Scarpettta space. No guesses as to their philosophy: Joo = to drink, and Dam = to talk! The dishes are all meant for sharing over conversation too, and while the menu includes Korean classics of bibimbap and fried chicken, try some of their modern plates of kimchi arancini, peach shrimp, corn brie cheese, and AAA striploin steak – and a creative signature cocktail, such as Kimchi Caesar or Makgeollita. 1003 9 Avenue SE, seven days 5 pm-late. Hanbo Korean Noodle has taken Calgary by storm. But we’re not surprised, they make all their own noodles for the kalguksu dishes and hand-pulled noodles for the sujebi. Owners/chefs Jeff and Denny created this 44-seat, small menu, fast service concept, and it’s already a huge hit! Pickles and kimchi arrive at your table as well as a slice of braised pork shoulder 6 Culinaire | November 2022
(you’ll want a whole plate!). Kimbab, mini or spicy, mandu (dumplings), and seafood or kimchi jeon scallion pancake are also on offer. 4340 Macleod Trail S, no reservations. Seven days, 11:30-9 pm, closed 3-5 pm. Edmonton has a new spot for Korean food too! Miss Korea Café and Restaurant serves traditional dishes of bulgogi, kimbab, japchae, bibimbap and more, all served with with two pieces of mandu, kimchi, plain rice, and seaweed beef soup. There are desserts too of croffles, bagels, and hotteok (dessert pancakes), and an extensive coffee menu to wash it all down. 10335A 100 Avenue NW, 7-4 pm, closed weekends. With locations in Canmore and Cochrane, Cabeza Grande Tacos and Tequila is now open in Bridgeland at 1010 McDougall Road NE, and is just what it promises – a substantial taco (and burrito) menu matched with a wide selection of high grade, yet affordable tequilas, and a choice of six margaritas every day! Nick Isaac and Charlie Jackson are running this new Mexican-infused, western-style, 46-seat cantina, with seating for 75 on the wraparound patio, and they’re busy planning events like the patio pooch party and live music evenings. Lunch and dinner, seven days. Best of Kin is a full-service restaurant with a brewery, now open at 1059 14 Street SW, Calgary. It’s been a journey for partners Ryan and Collin Mortson and Cole Glendinning, and now they’ve achieved their objective – community and family focused, bonding and celebrating over good food and beer. And this really is good food and beer! 12 taps feature eight of their own unique beers (check them out at bestofkin.ca),
three guest beers and a cider, while Chef Daniel Kozluk’s (of Fairmont Royal York and Sheraton, Calgary) nostalgic, comfort food menu is as good as you’d hope. Try anything with Mama Kwan sauce – try everything, it’s excellent! There’s a kiddies menu, a discount for Sunalta residents, and free parkade parking at the back after 5 pm and weekends. Until 11 pm, closed Tuesdays. The new Das Brezel Haus is open at Edmonton’s Manchester Square, so now you can get your fix of authentic, German hand-twisted pretzels, six days a week at 12042 107 Avenue NW. With a choice of seven savoury and four sweet pretzels – plus a hot and hearty doublesmoked farmer’s sausage wrapped in a soft and chewy pretzel, you’ll be spoiled for choice! Closed Mondays. Tomahawk Restaurant’s Ravi Kumar Panchagnula has opened Eleven26 Brasserie at 1126 Kensington Road, in the former Matt’s Diner and Indian Express spot. Chef Curtis Offet’s menu is comforting and delicious, with breakfast faves of eggs bennies with basil hollandaise and beef brisket bowl, and for lunch/dinner we really enjoyed his chorizo Scotch egg and salt cod croquettes, as well as his beef bourguignon and shrimp basquaise but don’t miss the warm sticky toffee pudding. They make a mean smoked Old Fashioned too! Specials include happy hour 1-6 pm and all-day Sunday/Monday, and free coffee with breakfast, 7-11 am. Seven days, 7 am-9 pm.
to chill with your friends, sipping champagne minis! The impressive and extensive wine list includes verticals and magnums, yet good value wines too, and premium spirits behind the bar. Appies, small bites and desserts only after 10 pm. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday-Monday.
If the walls at 113 8 Avenue SW, Calgary could talk… From 1893 as home to the Calgary Herald, to Divino until 2017, it’s been beautifully restored by Avid Interior Design for Beltline Hospitality Group (Briggs and the Pioneer) who’ve now opened their new casual fine dining restaurant, Fine Print. With Executive Chef Francis Martinez (ex Bow Valley Ranche) heading up the kitchen and beautifully executing Chef Xavier Lacaze’s original contemporary Canadian menu concept, you’re in for a treat - standout small bites and unmissable sablefish. There’s a private room for 10-14, and a lounge downstairs
So many successful restaurants are opening additional locations in Edmonton: As well as Windermere, Whyte, and two Calgary locations, Blowers & Grafton have opened a third northern location for their Halifax street food, at 500 - 7000 Emerald Drive, in Sherwood Park. Seven days, lunch and dinner. Khazana Indian Express is now serving up its north Indian cuisine in the new northside location as well as their Downtown and Windermere locations. 184 Mistatim Road NW, lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesdays. Northern Chicken’s second location has opened at 10184 104 Street, for their
lip-smacking fried chicken and sides, bourbon, beer, bubbles. From 11 am, seven days. Garden Bakery has been making their classic and extravagantly decorated custom cakes for 27 years, and as well as their bakery inside West Edmonton Mall, they’ve now opened a second bakery in South Edmonton Common, at 1731 102 Street. Wednesday-Sunday until 7 pm. In addition to their Lacombe location, Brunch Glory is now open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, every day from 7 am at 15985 97 Street. Flirty Bird has a second Edmonton location in addition to their five Calgary locations, Canmore, and Whyte Avenue too. The hottest chicken in town is now at 10350 124 Street, open seven days 11-7 pm. Do you have a notable achievement we should know about? A new opening, launch, rebrand, or accolade? Email us at email@example.com.
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Exploring Philippine Cuisine BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOGRAPHS BY DONG KIM
umain ka na ba? – Have you eaten? – is the common greeting used in the Philippines, which should tell you right away that food plays an important role in Filipino society. Their cuisine is as vast and varied as the more than 100 ethnolinguistic groups found on the 7,641 islands that make up the Philippines, and reflects the culture, geography, and history of the country. To get a better sense of the breadth of Filipino cuisine, we met with Philippine Consul General, Zaldy B. Patron, and asked him to walk us through it. “Early Filipino society recognized food as an important component of their societies and used it to mark significant occasions,” he explains. “European explorers recounted the generous meals prepared for them, and how they signified the high status of visitors, something that still occurs in Philippine households today.” “People welcome their relatives, 8 Culinaire | November 2022
friends and, sometimes, even strangers into their homes to partake in the food they prepare during the many festival celebrations that occur throughout the Philippines. Food, therefore, becomes a means to build social relations within the communities,” Consul General Patron adds. Even the way food is eaten is linked to social relations. “Pre-Hispanic Filipinos were recorded to eat with their hands, something which is still done even today and is considered a communal experience.” Influences from China, India, Japan, Spain, and America are evident in the dishes found in Filipino homes. Depending on where you are in the country determines what is prepared. “Most Filipino dishes have either pork, chicken, fish, or other seafood. Coconut milk, shrimp paste, garlic, vinegar, fish sauce, and tamarind paste, are some essential ingredients and condiments,”
says Consul General Patron. For Filipinos, breakfast can be a simple affair of bread, cheese, and coffee, sometimes accompanied by dried meat, fried fish, and fried rice with fried egg. Lunch and dinner are variations on dishes made with vegetables, meat, or fish. And there’s more, too, he says: “Filipinos love to snack in the morning and afternoon, which means some of us can eat up to five times a day.” Snacks range from sweet rice cakes to turon, made with saba banana and brown sugar, to halo-halo, shaved ice with sweet fruit and toppings. If you haven’t eaten yet – or even if you have – you’re in for a treat! Alberta boasts a robust Filipino culture, with amazing chefs and restaurants in both Calgary and Edmonton. They’ve shared with us here some of their favourite dishes, all of which are reflections of the rich culture and community they come from.
For Chef Ryan Tiqui, co-founder and Owner of Calgary’s Amihan Grill + Bakeshop, his father is his biggest influence when it comes to cooking: “He somehow has this magic of turning simple dishes into extraordinary meals, and I try to mimic the same passion in cooking that my dad had.” Because it draws from other cultures, a sense of adventure is a must when it comes to cooking Filipino cuisine, says Chef Ryan. “Don’t be afraid to experiment with flavours and put a personal touch on the food.” His favourite dish at Amihan is the Chicken Insal – barbecue chicken marinated in lemongrass, vinegar, and spices. “The lemongrass flavour reminds me of my dad’s favourite dish, Lutung Salè Manuk,” he explains. A dish native to the Province of Pampanga, Lutung Salè Manuk (Lemongrass Chicken Soup) is a simple, comforting dish for cold-weather days. Chef Ryan advises to sauté your chicken
very well before adding the water and chicken broth to ensure the flavour of the chicken in incorporated.
Lutung Salè Manuk” (Lemongrass Chicken Soup) Serves 4-5
2 Tbs (30 mL) cooking oil 2 Tbs garlic 1 cup onion 1 Tbs ginger 1 whole chicken, chopped into serving pieces (free-range, if available) 3¾ cups (900 mL) chicken broth 1 2/3 cups (400 mL) water (add as needed) 8 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, stalks pounded, and leaves tied in a knot 2 Tbs (30 mL) fish sauce 1 Tbs salt (adjust if needed) 1 tsp pepper (adjust according to preference) 1 bunch spinach (optional)
1. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. 2. Sauté garlic, onion, and ginger until fragrant. 3. Add chicken until juices come out, stir occasionally to prevent from sticking. 4. Add chicken broth, water and lemongrass and bring to a boil. 5. Season with fish sauce, salt, and pepper. 6. Lower heat and simmer until chicken is completely cooked, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl. Add spinach before serving. Serve hot and if you like, serve with a side of steamed jasmine rice. November 2022 | Culinaire 9
At first glance, the menu at Calgary’s Streetside Grill & Café seems to hinge on more Western-style and European cuisines. Dive a little deeper, however, and you’ll find a handful of shining Filipino gems. Thanks to the global experiences of Chef Marlon, guests enjoy their own global experience.
“What influences my cooking is the availability of ingredients in the market to create my own fusion dish out of the traditional dishes including the Filipino dishes,” he explains. When he cooks, his mother is his source of inspiration, and it brings back childhood memories of helping his mother cook and feed the farmers working in the family’s rice fields. “I will never forget the joy and satisfaction on the farmer's faces every time they get a taste of my mother's cooking.” At Streetside, Chef Marlon’s go-to is his version of Tapsilog, a popular breakfast dish from the Philippines consisting of tapa (beef), sinangag (garlic fried rice), and itlog (fried egg). “It reminds me of where my roots come from,” he adds. Keeping your workplace clean as you cook is a must, says Chef Marlon, and
when cooking any Filipino dish, don’t forget the soy sauce, brown sugar, and Philippine lime. And, perhaps most importantly, he adds: “You have to sing while cooking Filipino foods for it to become authentic!”
Tapsilog Serves 6
1 Kg beef sirloin, sliced thln ¾ cup (180 mL) water 6 eggs ¾ cup (180 mL) cooking oil
6 Tbs (90 mL) soy sauce 1½ cup (360 mL) pineapple juice 12 cloves garlic, crushed 4 Tbs brown sugar ½ tsp ground white pepper
Sinangag (Garlic Rice) 10 cloves garlic, chopped 10 cups cooked rice 2 tsp salt
1. Place the beef in a large bowl. Combine all the marinade ingredients and pour over beef. Mix well and cover the bowl. Place in the fridge and marinate overnight. 2. Cook the garlic fried rice (slnangag na kanln) by heating 3 tablespoons (45 mL) cooking oil in a pan. Add chopped garlic. Cook until garlic turns light brown. Add the cooked rice. Stir fry for 3 minutes. 3. Season with salt. Continue to stir-fry for 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside. 4. Heat a pan and pour the marinated beef into it, including the marinade. Add ¾ cup (180 mL) water. Let the mixture boil. Cover the pan and continue to cook until the liquid reduces to half. 5. Add 3 tablespoons (45 mL) cooking oil into the mixture. Continue to cook until the liquid completely evaporates. Fry the beef in remaining oil until medium brown. Set aside. 6. Fry the egg by pouring 2 tablespoons of oil (30 mL) into a pan. Crack two eggs and sprinkle salt on top. Cook for 2 minutes to make sunny side eggs. Continue with remaining eggs. 7. Arrange the beef, sinangag (garlic rice) and fried egg on a large plate to form Tapsllog. 8. Served with vinegar as dipping sauce for the beef. Garnish with fruit. 10 Culinaire | November 2022
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Calgary’s Pacific Hut Restaurant has you covered for traditional Filipino dishes and desserts morning, noon, and night. Growing up in the Philippines, Chef Centene was influenced by his parents, who showed him how to create his first dish. He says that traditional Filipino dishes are made by measuring your ingredients but then tasing and adding to the dish as you work. “My biggest suggestion for those who want to learn how to cook Filipino food is not to set boundaries.” Among the dishes he prepares in the restaurant (and there’s a lot!), his favourite to cook is the Pacific Hut Ribs Special. But if you’re just starting out, he suggests trying your hand at something like adobo and beef kaldireta. “This is one of the main dishes in Filipino cuisine, and it’s the first one my parents taught me how to cook.” Best accompanied with bread or steamed white rice, Chef Centene’s 12 Culinaire | November 2022
recipe for Beef Kaldireta is made with several ingredients you probably already have in your fridge or pantry, and it’s perfect for simmering on cooler afternoons and evenings. Chef’s Centene’s parting advice? “Don’t be afraid to experiment with this dish!”
Beef Kaldireta Serves 4
2 Tbs (30 mL) cooking oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 tsp garlic. minced 500 g beef, cubed 4 Tbs (60 mL) tomato paste 120 g liver paté 2 medium potatoes, cubed 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 medium red/green bell peppers ¼ tsp ground cloves 2 bay leaves, dried or fresh 1½ tsp salt ½ tsp ground black pepper
1. Heat cooking oil and sauté onion and garlic together with the beef. 2. Let it simmer for 60 minutes until tender. 3. Add tomato paste and liver pate. 4. When the meat is almost tender, add potatoes, carrots, and bell pepper. 5. Add cloves, bay leaves, salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer for about 15 mins. 6. Serve while hot.
As Jean de Jesus explains, Edmonton’s Manila Grill Express was the dream of her mother, Aurea, who had many influences growing up surrounded by a large family. “Food was a love language for her,” says Jean. “She showed her love to others by cooking large homemade feasts.” Patience is key when it comes to preparing Filipino food, says Jean. “Some dishes need a little bit more preparation so if you have the time, get your family involved with cutting vegetables and make it an event!” As with any cuisine, fresh is best, and Jean advises sourcing your ingredients from local butchers and farmer’s markets. Among Jean and Aurea’s favourite dishes on the menu is Crispy Pata. “It’s a showstopper of a dish that is usually only brought out during a special occasion due to time and preparation. However, with the growing popularity of the air fryer, this can also be made easily at home!” Don’t rush the boiling process, advises Jean, and allow the meat to dry before frying: “This will result in the juiciest, crispiest crispy pata!”
Crispy Pata (Pork) Serves 2
12 cups (3 L) water 3 Tbs salt 2 Tbs peppercorns 4 cloves garlic 1 onion, quartered 2 dried bay leaves 1 whole pork hock or pork knuckle 6 cups (1.5 L) cooking oil
1. Pour water in a cooking pot and bring to the boil. 2. Add salt, peppercorns, garlic, onion, and bay leaves. 3. Place the cleaned pork hock in the boiling water then simmer until the leg becomes tender, about 1 hour depending on size. 4. Remove the leg from the cooking pot and set aside until the temperature goes down. The dryer the skin, the crispier! 5. To deep fry: Heat oil in a clean large cooking pot to 375º F. Once oil is hot, deep fry the dried pork hock. Cook until one side becomes crispy, and then carefully flip to crisp the other side. Use a splatter guard if you have and use
caution as this is a large piece of meat being fried. To air fry: Brush dried pork hock with oil and put it in air fryer at 450º F for 10 minutes then flip and cook for another 10 minutes. Lower temperature to 350º F, and air fry the pata again, but only for 10 minutes! Let cook, cut then enjoy!!
Spicy Soy Vinegar dipping sauce ½ cup (120 mL) vinegar 2 Tbs (30 mL) soy sauce 1½ tsp black pepper 1 small red onion, chopped finely 2 birds eye chillies
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix. November 2022 | Culinaire 13
Despite growing up surrounded by the cooking of his mother and grandmother, Chef Ariel del Rosario of Edmonton’s Filistix didn’t realize he had a passion for food until he started reading Gourmet Magazine. These days he’s inspired by Filipino chefs and restaurateurs levelling up Filipino cuisine on a global scale. “For far too long, Filipino restaurants serviced only the Filipino community exclusively,” Chef Ariel says. “My mission, as with these new chefs, is to introduce and educate the dining public outside of the Filipino community to the deliciousness of Filipino cuisine.” “Filipino food is the original fusion cuisine,” Chef Ariel explains. “It’s a mix of Spanish, Malay, Chinese, and American cuisines.” Get a feel for the four flavour profiles – salty, sour (acidic), sweet, and ‘funky’, and you’re on the right path. Chef Ariel shares a recipe for Sinigang na Baboy, a sour, tamarind-based soup with pork ribs and veggies. “This is actually my wife's recipe but I'm stealing it(!) She learned this from her lola (grandmother) and it is purely by feel and by taste.” It takes time, but it’s well worth the result. “Don't be afraid to use the readymade Mama Sita's or Knorr Sinigang powder,” adds Chef Ariel, and adjust the amount you use to your taste. 14 Culinaire | November 2022
Pork Rib Tamarind Soup (Sinigang na Baboy) 2 kg pork ribs (side or baby back is fine, or even spareribs) 1 onion, sliced 4-5 medium tomatoes, diced or wedges (whatever you feel like) 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) fish sauce 1 packet of Mama Sita's or Knorr Sinigang powder 1 Chinese eggplant, cut into medallions 1 small daikon radish, peeled and cut into medallions 10-12 okra
medium and return to a boil, skimming off as much impurities as possible, about 15 minutes. 4. Add onion and tomatoes and simmer for another 15 minutes. 5. Add fish sauce and continue to simmer for 30-45 minutes or until the pork is tender and falling off the bone. 6. Add the Sinigang powder, eggplant, and daikon, and simmer for another 15 minutes. 7. Turn the heat off and finally add the okra and cover with a lid for 5-10 minutes until okra is cooked through. 8. Serve with steaming hot rice and side dish of fish sauce with Thai chili.
1. Cut pork ribs into individual ribs. 2. Fill a large soup pot 2/3 of the way with water and on high, bring to a boil uncovered. 3. Add the pork ribs, turn down to
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.
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Regenerating the city with fresh soil and people power BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
ven if you have the address
programmed into your GPS, it’s easy to miss Calgary’s Highfield Farm as you’re driving through the city. Nestled in an industrial area between Blackfoot and Deerfoot Trails, just down the road from the Calgary Food Bank and Village Brewery, from the road Highfield doesn’t look like much of anything. Once visitors get onto the property though, they’ll find a regenerative growing space unlike any other in the city. The landscape at Highfield might look vaguely familiar to long-time Calgary food enthusiasts. The 15-acre City-owned lot the farm sits on was once the Blackfoot Farmers’ Market (a.k.a. the Farmers’ Own Market), though it’s been vacant 16 Culinaire | November 2022
for almost a decade after the market shut down. The City earmarked the land for agricultural use and opened a call for proposals in 2017, eventually awarding the lease to a group of community-minded growers. Since the plot was essentially a giant parking lot with a wooded area buffering the traffic from Deerfoot Trail, it took a lot of work to turn it into anything resembling a farm, but by 2021 fresh food was sprouting out of Highfield’s gardens. Urban farms, be they technically savvy vertical farming or aquaponic operations or large backyard gardens, tend to focus on commercial food production, but that’s not Highfield’s core reason for being. The farm operates on three pillars — land revitalization, regenerative food,
and community building — with some extra weight put on the revitalization piece. About a third of the land is dedicated to a composting area and the farm’s long-term plan is to eventually get the certification to compost waste from nearby businesses and serve as a midscale composting facility. “Highfield Farm is a project of the Composting Council of Canada,” says Heather Ramshaw, Highfield’s Operations Manager. “Everything we do here is from that focus of soil building. That’s why land revitalization is our very first pillar, because we’re taking an industrial site and reclaiming it as a green space where we can create food.” That said, Highfield Farm absolutely
third of the farm that is not earmarked for growing or composting is taken up by that forested area that leads to the Deerfoot, where there are trails to walk through and an opening big enough to host events. The rest of the farm has plenty of areas for sitting and hanging out and Highfield also hosts fitness classes, a kids’ forest school, various workshops, and a slate of annual events. This all results in a community of like-minded people, but the motivation for the communitybuilding goes further than creating an outdoor clubhouse for environmentalists and natural food growers. “We’re trying to create a model where people can come and learn about growing food,” Ramshaw says. “They can learn those skills here and then bring that back into their own communities and grow something similar or help out with their community garden. This is a space for a community to come and connect with the local food system and engage in knowledge sharing.” Highfield Farm is in Calgary at 1920 Highfield Crescent SE. For more information or to visit, see highfieldfarm.ca.
does produce food and will produce more and more of it as the years march on. Another third of the property is used as growing space, including a large garden that produces 50 different varieties of vegetables with enough output to sustain a small CSA program as well as donations to organizations like the Calgary Food Bank and the Mustard Seed. Creating the garden was a challenge — Highfield is not permitted to grow into the ground (not that the soil in a long-neglected empty lot is any good anyway) and needed to build above-ground beds, all without the advantage of having any running water or much power on the property. In addition to the main garden and greenhouse, Highfield also works with local grower members like Basil Ranch, ABC Bees, and Hands-On Growing, which use a small portion of the farm’s land and in turn, help to activate the farm and
showcase different ways of farming. This year the farm also built a greenhouse that will contain equal parts growing and community space, with the goal being not only to grow food, but to invite people in to talk about it. “In a city like Calgary that continues to grow out eating up farmland, we need to utilize spaces in town to grow food,” Ramshaw says. “We’re showcasing that even if you only have an eighth of an acre, you can grow a lot of food to feed your small community for the summer or at least supplement your diet to make sure you’re getting high nutrient food.” That third pillar concerning community is apparent throughout the entire farm. Save for Ramshaw and a couple of farm interns, Highfield Farm is almost entirely powered by volunteers, with plenty of opportunities for members to get their hands sufficiently dirty. The
Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. November 2022 | Culinaire 17
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
Spice It Up:
MOROCCAN MEATBALLS STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
flavourful, and has been enriched by the many aspects of its long and eventful history. Given the country’s location on the Northern tip of Africa, with coastlines on both the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, Moroccan cuisine has a fascinating blend of Arab, Middle Eastern, Iberian, Mediterranean, Jewish, and African influences. One cannot talk about Moroccan cooking without talking about the spices. A fixture on the spice route, the country has adopted the abundance of spices imported from all over the world, which have found their way into local kitchens for centuries. Moroccan food is layered with sweet, spicy, earthy, and bright flavours that reflect the vast array of spices available in the colourful local markets.
You can make a big batch ahead of time and freeze for future meals
ith the blasting of the furnace and the first snowflakes fluttering down comes the desire to surround oneself with cold weather comforts. For me these include slippers, wooly cardigans, and cozy comfort food. Meatballs slide into this category and for good reason. They’re easy to throw together and lend themselves well to a
18 Culinaire | November 2022
variety of seasonings. Plus, you can make a big batch ahead of time and freeze for future meals. Sauces can be whatever you have a hankering for, be it sweet and sour, creamy mushroom, or rich and tangy tomato. Meatballs love to soak up gorgeous flavours, and this Moroccaninspired recipe is sure to bring the warmth on a cold winter's day. Moroccan cuisine is earthy and
Ten essential spices to Moroccan cooking include: cumin, saffron, turmeric, coriander, cinnamon, ground ginger, cardamom, paprika, white or black pepper, and hot red peppers. If you don’t have a full spice cupboard, you can look for a blend like ras el hanout, often labeled as “Moroccan Spice Blend” at many grocery stores. Its name translates to “best of the shop” and will likely include a variety of the spices listed above. This dish includes most of these spices and the aroma released from the skillet is absolutely wonderful. The spice level is mild, but if you prefer a bit more heat feel free to add more red pepper flakes to the sauce. Tender and juicy, the meatballs swim in a rich and delicious tomato sauce. Serve over fluffy couscous, rice, or even pasta.
We mill our grains, then mash, ferment, and distill them. We add crystal clear water drawn from mountain valleys. We blend in natural flavours using other farm fresh ingredients.
Moroccan Meatballs Serves 4-5
500g lean ground beef ½ cup panko breadcrumbs 1 medium onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 Tbs finely chopped cilantro 3 Tbs finely chopped parsley or mint 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp fresh ginger, minced 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 1 large egg ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil, for frying
½ cup (125 mL) water 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 Tbs ground cumin 1½ tsp smoked paprika ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp red pepper flakes To taste salt ¼ tsp pepper 1 onion, diced 1 red or green bell pepper, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tsp fresh ginger, minced 1 can (796 mL) crushed tomatoes 1 cup (250 mL) water 1 tsp (5 mL) honey 2 Tbs chopped fresh cilantro AND parsley ¼ cup pitted green olives, for garnish
1. In a large mixing bowl, add all the ingredients for the meatballs and mix well. With wet hands, shape the mixture into around 20 medium-sized meatballs. 2. In a large skillet, warm 2 Tbs (30 mL) of the olive oil over medium heat. Add half of the meatballs and fry until golden brown all around. This should take about 7 minutes. Transfer the browned meatballs to a clean plate. If needed, add the remaining olive oil to the skillet and brown the remaining meatballs. 3. In the same skillet, pour in ½ cup (125 mL) water and deglaze the pan, scraping up all the brown bits. Bring to a simmer and stir until all there are no more brown bits on the bottom of the skillet. 4. Stir in the spices plus salt and pepper to the skillet. Cook for about a minute until the liquid has been reduced by half. Stir in the onion, red pepper, garlic, and ginger and cook for 3-5 minutes until the onion is soft and translucent. 5. Add the crushed tomatoes, plus rinse out the can with 1 cup (250 mL) water and add this to the skillet as well. Stir in the honey. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes. Add the meatballs, stir gently, then cover the skillet and simmer for another 20 minutes. Stir in the herbs and olives. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. 6. Serve the meatballs with couscous, rice, or pasta.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.
Pour a glass. And taste the dedication that turned a small family farm into a world-class distillery.
Bay 3, 5021 - 44 Ave Innisfail, Alberta
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2022 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE We’ve scoured the country and the internet to find gifts for your food and drink-loving family and friends that we’ve tried and tested. We’re delighted to present 19 drinks, reads, and more. We hope you enjoy them as much as we do!
THE POSSIBLE POT & PAN
The 4-quart Ninja Possible Pot & Pan might be the only pan you need! It’s the newest member of Ninja’s NeverStick Family, and it’s designed to replace a stainless-steel frying pan, non-stick frying pan, sauté pan, skillet, saucier, saucepan, steamer, strainer, spatula, cast iron skillet, roasting pan, and baking dish. It’s safe to 500º F with all types of heat, and goes from stovetop to oven to tabletop - even to the dishwasher too! We love it! Around $250. 20 Culinaire | November 2022
CANADIAN WHISKY: THE NEW PORTABLE EXPERT
From Davin de Kergommeaux, THE expert on Canadian whisky and one of the most prolific enthusiasts of Canadian-made spirits, comes the second edition of his Portable Expert. Providing context, history, and understanding of our national spirit, de Kergommeaux includes a number of assessments from distilleries across the country and Alberta too. Rye whisky is poised for a resurgence, will you be ready? $25-27 Appetite
FORTY CREEK - ART OF THE BLEND
Art of the Blend is a new limited-edition whisky created to commemorate Bill Ashburn’s 35th Anniversary as Forty Creek’s master blender. It has a fascinating fruity, yet toffee, nose which comes from blending a small amount of equal quantities of cold-pressed and fermented Niagara riesling and vidal blanc grapes into the whisky to produce a stunning and innovative, smooth and (for me!) far too easy drinking sipper for this Holiday season! CSPC +1196710 Around $90.
Creating a therapeutic arts-based program ten years ago, for youth living in a group home, has taken Natalie Cole on a journey of art and healing; she volunteered in the Therapeutic Arts Centre at Calgary’s Children’s Hospital and became an early Childhood Educator. Teaching pottery classes has launched a new ceramic adventure for Cole, and we all want to be drinking from her beautiful Frosted Lemon and Mid Century Peace Mugs! $35-$40, natalieclairecole.com, Sobeys and other specialty stores.
MEDIUM RARE KNIFE BAGS You’ve seen Calgary’s Medium Rare’s chefs aprons on all the popular TV cooking shows and maybe own your own (you should!), and now they’ve brought out premium knife bags in four designs, all with a custom leather knife protector. In denim or beautiful wax canvas, with brass grommets and a leather tie, the bags hold up to six large knives with pockets for small accessories (tasting spoons, tweezers, etc). Perfect for the chef in your life! $175 at mediumrarechef.com.
FOOT TRODDEN: PORTUGAL AND THE WINES THAT TIME FORGOT
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NATALIE CLAIRE COLE PEACE MUGS
Portugal is a bastion of authentic wine and authentic cuisine. Eschewing many of the modern, “international” grapes, Portugal bridges traditional and modern winemaking in most of its many regions. From Simon J Woolf and Ryan Opaz – two icons of wine communication and passionate advocates of Portuguese wines, comes a singular, comprehensive book to understand and appreciate this country’s wines. $42-45
YOUR COMMUNITY. YOUR STORIES. Stay connected with Alberta magazines.
Subscribe to one fine Alberta magazine and get a second one on us.
YOUR STORIES. albertamagazines.com/bogo Stay connected with Alberta magazines.
Subscribe to one fine Alberta magazine and get a second one on us.
AMPAalbertamagazines.com/bogo BOGO SUBSCRIPTION
How can you better a gift of a magazine subscription? Two magazine subscriptions! Our Alberta Magazine Publishers Association is running a Buy One Get One (free) subscription promotion, so now you can get your Culinaire Magazine delivered to your door and choose one of the 38 other Alberta Magazines, and they’ll fulfil subscriptions to both magazines on your behalf and invoice you for half the total cost. A great deal! albertamagazines.com/bogo
LAZY BAKE RUM AND EGGNOG COOKIES
Local lass, Katie Duffin’s spreading her love of baking with quick and easy treats for you to make at home, and for the Holidays this year has released a Rum and Eggnog Cookie mix. Yum! Just add an egg and butter to make 12-15 delicious cookies in under half an hour – and you still get to say, “I baked these”! $15 at lazybake.com, the kits are also available gluten-free and can be prepared vegan.
TRUE NORTH CANDY CANE CREAM LIQUEUR
For some, nothing evokes the sentiment of the holiday season quite like the not-sohumble candy cane. True North is a Candy Cane Cream Liqueur from Highwood Distillers, who import all their cream directly from Ireland. Full of minty, candy cane sweetness with a rich creaminess. This is as well suited to serve simply over ice as it is in a hot beverage. For the adventurous, it might make some holiday baking even sweeter! CSPC +768384 $20 November 2022 | Culinaire 21
SWEET SIPPIN’ MAPLE WHISKY CREAM
It doesn’t get more Canadian than this! Sweet Sippin’ Canadian Maple Whisky, in its distinctive maple leaf glass bottle, is a huge hit at duty-free stores as well as local liquor stores, so Highwood decided to add real dairy cream to their small batch, pot-distilled Canadian whisky, with Quebec maple syrup, to produce a creamy and smooth, delicious sipper for over ice, in your coffee, or on desserts. The perfect Canadian gift for those you love – or treat yourself! CSPC +818620 $30-$34
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Karen MacNeil has recently released the 3rd edition of her very popular Wine Bible. An extremely helpful and rather in-depth tome for wine aficionados, but one that is also remarkable in its brevity. Easily digestible, packed with photos and illustrations, and making a remarkable effort to answer the questions you might not have known you had – but wanted to know. Canada gets a whopping 8 pages compared to New York State’s 6, but we’ll get there. $50 Workman Publishing
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THE WINE BIBLE (3RD EDITION)
RIEDEL VELOCE COLLECTION
The masters of glassware, Riedel have launched their Veloce Collection - a new range of the thinnest and most lightweight crystal glasses of Riedel’s machinemade pieces. These elegant glasses are available in eight varietalspecific styles with the name of the grape etched on the base of the glass, and there’s a matching water tumbler too. We’ll be toasting with the stylish champagne glass this holiday season! Sets of two wine glasses $89, two tumblers $45 at Riedel stockists and online.
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THE MEAT STICK MINI
Need something for the Grill God or Goddess in your life? Or maybe it’s you that wants to up your grilling game. The Meat Stick Mini is an app enabled, rechargeable, wireless, and dishwasher-safe barbecue thermometer that is accurate, and yes – designed for meat. The range is a little low at about 3-4 meters or so, but surely, you’ll want to keep an eye on things anyways…. (the Meat Stick X has a few more features and a longer range). Available online and BBQ specialty stores. Around $120
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The Essential Cross-Country Guide to Distilleries, Their Spirits, and Where to Imbibe Them. As the wave of craft spirits continues, Canadian Spirits might be indispensable for the enthusiast in your life. A distillery-by-distillery guide providing a bit of background, some insight, and some concise, but jargon-light descriptions of a few notable bottles from each, make for a handy guide indeed. Given the impressive selection available in Alberta, many other province’s bottles are available for us to taste and compare. Stephen Beaumont and Christine Sismondo. $30-32 Nimbus 22 Culinaire | November 2022
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STOCKING STUFFERS YAWDI’S PEPPER JELLY
As a mother of two herself, Scarborough, Ontario’s Veneise George, founded Yawdi’s Jamaican-inspired marinades and condiments to help families reduce time spent preparing tasty meals without artificial colours or flavours, and we’re big fans of her sweet and tangy Red Bell Pepper Jelly! We also endorse her mission to support other BIPOC entrepreneurs, specifically BIPOC women in the food industry. 250 mL around $9 online at yawdi.ca, Sobeys and other specialty stores.
SPIRITS WITH SMOKE 'INFUSED'
Masters of all things cocktail, local Spirits with Smoke have spent the past 1½ years perfecting the recipes for their new cocktail infusions. A choice of seven different mixes are available, including Classic Margarita, Peach Old Fashioned, Whiskey Sour, Citrus Gin Smash, and more, with each packet making 8-10 servings, and all made with organic fruits, sugars, herbs, and spices, ready for you to add your favourite spirit and shake everything together in a sealable jar. $22 at spiritswithsmoke.com.
HEALTHY GENIE’S DATE & CHOCOLATE SPREAD
Growing up in Abu Dhabi, UAE, for Healthy Genie founder, nutritionist Maryam Munaf, snacking on dates filled with raw nuts was the norm and she learned about dates through her trips to the Date Market with her father, 'the Date Guru'. Now living in Toronto, Munaf is still surrounded by dates as she makes gourmet organic date spreads in three flavours: tahini, cinnamon, and our favourite – chocolate! 260 g $14, online at healthygenie.ca and Well.ca, and specialty stores.
PARK DISTILLERY MOUNTAIN JOE VODKA COFFEE COCKTAIL
Sometimes, the back woods are calling, and you might be thinking it would be great to have a little cocktail while you’re out there (or maybe you’ve just been hanging out at the neighbourhood ice rink). Very much like a nitro coffee, this cold brewed coffee, vodka-based, ready to drink uses oat milk and a splash of honey to keep it shelf stable, creamy, and with the right level of sweetness to boot. Very tasty, and exactly the sort of drink you didn’t know you wanted. CSPC +866006 (250 mL can) $6
CHANDLER HONEY CREME BRULEE
Chandler Honey founder, Tique Chandler, grew up beekeeping on her parent's honey farm, in Scandia, Alberta (Scandia Honey Company has been in operation since 1937), which is where all the white, creamy honey for her unique hand-infused honey products comes from! Our fave is the Crème Brûlée honey, but they’re available in Lemon & Ginger, Piña Colada, Mocha, Yuzu and Berry flavours, and more. 140g $10, 250 g $15, chandlerhoney.ca to order. November 2022 | Culinaire 23
Spicy Salads to Keep you Warm
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY
hearty stew is a traditional comfort meal come the chilly temperatures of fall. What if you want the warmth but not the heaviness of a stew or the time it takes to make? These spicy salads will leave you satiated and warmed up in no time at all. The pumpkin and lentil salad is a meal unto itself that will satisfy even the hungriest of tummies. Coated with spices and layers of peppers to provide just enough heat to warm you up on the inside. The roasted kale and pear salad is filled with a variety of flavours and textures that play between sweet and spicy ,and will be happy to stand up beside your favourite protein. The rice noodle salad is bright and light but definitely brings the heat. Along with your family favourite winter stews and soups, these salads will add more warmth into your kitchen and your stomach this winter.
Spiced Pumpkin and Lentil Salad with Jalapeño Dressing Serves 2
1 medium delicata squash Drizzle olive oil 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground garlic ½ tsp paprika ½ tsp ground coriander To taste sea salt 2 poblano peppers 2 jalapeño peppers 1 bay leaf 2 garlic cloves, rough chop 1 cup dried lentils 3 cups water ½ lime, juiced ¼ cup (60 mL) avocado oil ¼ cup (60 mL) pomegranate arils 24 Culinaire | November 2022
1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. Slice squash into 3 cm thick rounds. Remove seeds. 3. Season with cumin, garlic, paprika, coriander, and sea salt. Drizzle with olive oil. 4. Bake squash for 15 - 20 minutes or until soft when pierced with a fork. 5. On another baking sheet, roast the poblanos and 1½ jalapeño peppers (reserve ½ a raw jalapeño) for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap to soften. Remove the skin from the flesh of the peppers. Thinly slice the poblano peppers and reserve. 6. In a small pot, add the bay leaf, 1 garlic clove, lentils, water and sea salt. Cook lentils 20-30 minutes until all water has been absorbed and lentils have softened. 7. In a mini food processor or hand blender, add the other garlic clove, lime juice, avocado oil, roasted and reserved raw jalapeño and combine to a purée. Season with sea salt to taste.
8. Toss the lentils together with the dressing. Disperse the lentils between 2 plates and top with the squash, poblano peppers and pomegranate arils. Serve warm.
Roasted Pears and Kale with a Spicy Honey Dressing Serves 2
1 cup honey ½ Tbs (8 mL) chili garlic sauce 1 bunch kale (approx 8 - 10 leaves) 2 cloves garlic, minced To taste sea salt Drizzle olive oil 2 large pears 2 medium red onions ½ cup walnuts 1 tsp dried thyme ½ cup blue cheese 1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. In a small bowl combine honey and chili garlic sauce and reserve.
Spicy Prawn and Rice Noodle Salad Serves 2
3. Remove the vein from the kale and tear leaves into bite size pieces. Season with 1 clove garlic, sea salt and olive oil. 4. Cut pears into 8 wedges and remove the core. Peel onion, trim the ends and cut into wedges. Roughly chop the walnuts. 5. Add the pears, onion and walnuts to a medium bowl and coat with olive oil, garlic, thyme and sea salt. 6. In 1 or 2 baking trays spread the kale, pears, onion, and walnuts. Bake for 10 minutes, remove from oven and stir. Place back in the oven and bake another 10 minutes or until kale and nuts are toasted and pears and onions are softened. Remove from oven. 7. Place ingredients on plates, top with crumbled blue cheese and dressing.
1 Thai red chili ½ lime, juice 1 tsp fish sauce 2 tsp sugar 2 cm piece ginger, peeled and grated 3 cm piece lemongrass, firm outer leaves removed, minced 3 Tbs (45 mL) rice vinegar 3 small eggplants Drizzle avocado oil 100g vermicelli rice noodles ½ red pepper ½ large carrot 2 Tbs cashews 10 raw prawns Mint leaves for garnish (optional) 1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. Seed and thinly slice the Thai chili. 3. Combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, ginger, lemongrass, and rice vinegar in a small pot and heat just until the sugar melts. Remove from heat and add the Thai chili. Reserve. 4. Thinly slice the eggplants and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with avocado oil and a pinch of salt. Bake for 30 minutes, turning after 15 minutes. 5. Fill a medium sized pot ¾ the way with water. Bring to a boil. Add the vermicelli noodles and boil 3-4 minutes. Drain. Run under cold water. Reserve. 6. Thinly slice the red pepper and reserve.
Thinly slice the large carrot and reserve. 7. When the eggplant has approximately 10 minutes left to cook, remove from oven and add the cashews to the baking sheet and place back in the oven for the cashews to toast as the eggplant finishes cooking. 8. Shell and devein prawns as desired. Place on a baking sheet and bake for 3 minutes at 350º F. You want the prawns to just be cooked without turning rubbery. Assemble all ingredients between 2 bowls and drizzle with the sauce. 9. Garnish with cilantro and mint leaves as desired.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
A Magical Tradition Visit calgaryzoo.com/ZOOLIGHTS for more details.
Artisans of the Markets BY CARMEN CHENG
e often think of farmer’s markets as places to purchase fresh produce in the Spring and Summer seasons. And while the beautiful bounty of colourful fruits and vegetables during warmer seasons is quite lovely, farmer’s markets are a hub for local small artisans all year round. We have rounded up five small businesses operating in markets around Alberta who are passionate about their craft and creating some incredible and unique offerings. Next time you’re shopping at a farmer’s market in our province, check out these small businesses.
Inside Calgary’s bustling Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens is Zushi, a sushi bar serving beautiful traditional Japanese dishes made from sustainable and quality ingredients that are exceptionally executed. As an experienced sushi chef, chef Jun Young Park had always wanted to open his own sushi restaurant. During the pandemic, he drove by a billboard with the phrase, “What are you waiting for?” which he took as a literal sign and motivation to open Zushi. Chef Jun opened Zushi in April this year, and in the short seven months of business, Zushi’s popularity has soared. Reservations for their omakase program is currently booked at least one month out. Omakase means that the customer entrusts the chef to take the lead on their meal choices, and chef Jun creates a wonderful experience for customers by individualizing each piece of sushi to coax out flavour and highlight textures. Such is the case with the smoked nigiri, which is a show-stopping course during the omakase meal where chef prepares a piece of nigiri which is smoked in front of diners in an awe-inspiring presentation and served immediately to customers. Chef’s passion and attention to detail 26 Culinaire | November 2022
Zushi Courtesy Carmen Cheng
and quality combined with the surprising affordability of Zushi’s menu has made this spot a must visit. Plan in advance to make a reservation for their omakase bar at lunch or dinner, it is truly an experience. In the meantime, customers are able to order a la carte without a reservation, be sure to order their temaki – two versions of this hand roll that are not to be missed include the side stripe prawn which highlights the sweetness of plump prawns and the shiitake truffle combining a creamy truffle aioli with savoury and earthy mushrooms.
Uncle Brian’s Food Company
Growing up in a farming family, Brian Kombani worked on his grandfather’s ranch in Zimbabwe helping out with the 1,000+ cattle daily. It’s here that he became interested in learning about the meat industry. Kombani opened Uncle Brian’s in June 2020, and Edmontonians fell in love with their juicy sausages which frequently sell out each week. After two years in business, Uncle Brian’s now sells their product at a number of farmer’s markets including the Bountiful Farmers’ Market,
Ma Pies Courtesy Dong Kim
Courtesy Uncle Brian's
Edmonton Downtown Farmers Market, and Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market. During warmer seasons, Uncle Brian’s can also be found at outdoor markets around Edmonton. Kombani wanted to introduce different types of sausages to Edmontonians. “Southern Africa has one of the biggest sausage and braai/BBQ cultures in the world,” says Kombani adding, “Boerewors, which literally means farmer’s sausage, is a big part of that culture. It is typically a beef sausage, since we have quite an abundant amount of cattle, more than any other livestock, but can be made of other meats such as lamb, pork, and rarely any chicken.” Boerewors is a meaty farmer’s sausage
governed by rules to ensure there’s little filler and scraps used. Kombani makes and sells a few types of boerewors, along with other quality meat products and sausages. Uncle Brian’s fresh sausages are available in up to 14-20 different varieties. Chakalaka is one of the most popular items, a sausage made with a medley of sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, carrots, and onions, that comes in beef, bison, lamb, and chicken. Uncle Brian’s pork Andouille sausage and dried meat snacks such as Drywors and Biltong are also customer favourites. Biltong is a thinly sliced air-dried cured meat, and Kombani uses premium cuts of beef such as sirloin for his version.
What started off as a quest by engineer Corey Ma to make a good apple pie has become a full-time business venture, providing Calgarians with frozen pies that showcase a perfect buttery, tender, and flaky pie pastry. Fueled by passion for this craft, Ma undertook training in pastry and sought out international work experience as a pastry chef before returning to Calgary. Over the past four years, Ma Pies has grown from an at-home based business to an online and farmer’s market business offering frozen pies, pizzas, and pastries such as Parisian flan and cannelés. Ma’s frozen pocket pies are the signature item of Ma Pies, designed for customers to save time in the kitchen as they heat up effortlessly with a flaky and light crust. “Once I found out that the pocket pies taste great when they're baked from frozen, I realized we can save time in the kitchen and still enjoy great food,”
Co urt es yE lC ho riz o
says Ma. These pocket pies come in both sweet and savoury varieties with more than ten flavours. Some of the most popular pocket pies are the Tourtiere, Chicken Mornay, and Chili Pie. The Chicken Mornay pocket pie is similar to a chicken pot pie but with a silky, creamy sauce, and subtle nutmeg and cheese flavours. The Chili pocket pie is filled with a beef and bean chili which combined with the buttery crust makes this a satisfying and hearty meal. Customers can purchase Ma Pies’ products from their website, or at the Granary Road market. Their pies are also served at OT Brewing and The Bullet Coffee House. Keep an eye out for Ma Pies at upcoming Christmas markets in Calgary and at outdoor markets during Spring and Summer.
El Chorizo Latino
“Think you’ve tried chorizo? Try again.” Is the tagline on El Chorizo Latino’s website. Indeed, this Edmonton-based business makes a vast array of chorizos spanning across Latin regions from Argentina, Mexico, Puerto Rico, and other places. All the chorizos are made with quality cuts of meat, fresh ingredients and aromatics, resulting in robust flavours. The traditional spice blends are unique to each region and made in-house with many of the recipes handed down from generations of family. While fresh Latin American chorizo is the main product for El Chorizo 28 Culinaire | November 2022
Latino, owners John and Angela also produce a lot of Latin or Spanish-based charcuterie such as Spanish dry cured chorizo, lomo or dry cured loin, and panceta. The Panceta Curada Ahumada is a Spanish style pancetta which is cold smoked and aged for six months. Of the wide range of fresh chorizos, a few customer favourites include the El Mexicano Spicy, Chilean Longaniza, and Mexican Sinaloastyle chorizo. The El Mexicano Spicy is a mainstay of the chorizo menu made in the style of the Toluca region of Mexico. This is a darker chorizo made from an adobo with pasilla and ancho chiles. El Chorizo Latino’s products are now available for purchase through Bountiful Farmers’ Market, Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market, Culina To Go, and The Public outposts. Customers can also find their products through various online distributors such as Uproot Food Collective, Cultivatr, and Organic Box. Paired well with rice or pasta dishes, or simply cooked on the grill, the fresh chorizos from El Chorizo Latino are a delightful inspiration for homecooked meals.
Chef Deepak is a familiar face in the Calgary culinary community, with a storefront on Centre Street and a stall at Crossroads Market. Deepak’s Dhaba has opened a third location at the new Calgary Farmer’s Market West, which features a number of beloved local Calgary food businesses in their food hall. Chef Deepak develops his own recipes for each of his dishes. The spices are freshly ground in-house at Deepak’s Dhaba resulting in a vibrancy to Chef Deepak’s dishes which can be ordered freshly made for dine-in or purchased as frozen meals. From their menu of fresh signature curries, the coconut cauliflower, butter chicken, and beef vindaloo are customer favourites. The creamy Dal Makhani with black lentils is rich in flavour and reheats nicely from frozen! Customers can also
purchase pakora bites. Chef’s chai is renowned, made with his own blend of spices and tea. The chai at Deepak’s Dhaba is sold hot or cold. When you’re shopping at the new Calgary Farmer’s Market, stop in at Deepak’s Dhaba for a warm chai and delicious lunch, or to stock your freezer with easy-to-reheat meals and your pantry with chef’s spice blends and chutneys!
Zushi: Fresh & Local Market + Kitchen, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE, Calgary. Uncle Brian’s Food Company: Bountiful Farmers’ Market, 3696 97 Street, Edmonton Edmonton Downtown Farmers Market: 10305 97 Street, Edmonton Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market: 10310 83 Avenue NW, Edmonton Deepak’s Dhaba: Calgary Farmer’s Market West, 25 Greenbriar Drive NW, Calgary, Crossroads Markets, 1235 26 Avenue SE, Calgary, 1032 Centre Street N, Calgary El Chorizo Latino: Bountiful Farmers’ Market, 3696 97 Street, Edmonton Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market, 10310 83 Avenue NW, Edmonton Ma Pies: Granary Road, 226066 112 Street W, Foothills County
Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves traveling, learning about different cuisines, and sharing her food adventures on social media.
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Brewing in Changing Times BY DAVID NUTTALL
tep into any grocery or liquor store and you will notice that the beverage world seems to be in a constant state of flux, with beer as a leading contender for the product that seems to have transformed the most in this century. With thousands of breweries opening worldwide in the past twenty years, mostly in North America, the ground is fertile for a brewing revolution. Alberta joined in rather late, but certainly made up for lost time in the past half-decade or so. Change does not come without its growing pains, and numerous events in that time which have thrown both established and new breweries more than one curve ball. In the past couple of articles, we touched upon how the public's demand for beer has created alterations in the supply chain not only for basic ingredients but also throughout the whole brewing and delivery process. Government legislation, inflation, external forces and events (some related to COVID, some not) have further affected brewers and other producers in the beverage industry. As society slowly returns to normal, several factors are all coming into play at once, and it will be interesting to see what transpires for breweries in 2023 and beyond.
other producers, or have created their own products. This is forcing breweries to go far beyond where most 20th century breweries ever went. The Ready-toDrink (RTD) category alone has its own special set of rules. There are several different varieties of RTDs, and they can range from vodka sodas to prepackaged cocktails. Since the category didn’t really come into its own until 2019, it has a non-existent track record. What works best in any market is usually up in the air. While sales are still increasing in solid double The Proliferation of Variety digits this year, its has begun to slow While the public now seeks breweries down (from triple digit growth) of that produce a wide variety of beers, not all visitors to taprooms are beer drinkers. the previous three years. Whether a So, within licensing limitations, breweries brewery makes their own (as a maltbased product), gets a distillery license, are now also expected to provide hard or collaborates with a distillery; all sodas/seltzers/teas (RTDs), soft drinks, involve capital and expertise. While and possibly cider. To that end, brewers it seems obvious that all breweries have either formed collaborations with 30 Culinaire | November 2022
The Future is Now!
should provide these products, most are not ready to go there yet. Getting to what breweries do best, guessing what to brew for a vacillating public is not easy. Yes, the IPA category is strong, but the Hazy/NEIPA seems to have usurped the West Coast IPA in popularity. Just this year, a new contestant has entered the fray; the Cold IPA. Sours are now ubiquitous, but many tend to be fruited, so which one do you pick? Any of guava, passion fruit, mango, or the current favourite, yuzu; all have had their moment in the sun. Whether to brew wild fermented beers and/or create a blending program of aged beers or just make kettle sours is another question. Even though it can be expensive and time consuming, expect more barrel aged and specialty beer to hit the market. Craft breweries have rediscovered lager and are providing an interesting alternative to those still clinging to mass-
produced macro beers. These “new” iterations are exposing people to just how diverse lager can be, with German and Bohemian Pilsners leading the way. Indeed, lagers reflecting those beers familiar to many as representing Mexican, Japanese, and Eastern European styles are also being recreated in these breweries. Add in Vienna, black and amber lagers, Doppelbocks, Helles, and these centuries old varieties seem modern to the nescient craft beer drinker. Changes In Processes This is probably the most difficult thing for breweries (and the public) to deal with as we move forward. The effects of climate change have had consequences on the availability of ingredients (including water) and other factors have created concerns involving
the distribution network, staffing, basic supplies, and a profusion of other issues. Regarding ingredients, barley and hop availability are crucial to any brewery’s operation. The 2021 western Canadian barley production was over one-third lower than 2020 (at time of writing, the figures for the 2022 harvest were not available). Too many hot and dry summers could prove catastrophic. Hops are being planted in multiple areas around the planet, but their viability for commercial brewing is not guaranteed. Hop production set a record in the American northwest in 2021, but here the issue has become shifting climate zones and wildfire smoke. Areas in the south are becoming too hot and dry, so planting moves to the north. To help combat this, new bittering agents, developed from other natural
sources such as grape skins, are being tested as replacements for hops. Other synthesized products can also replace fruit as an ingredient in beer. So where does this lead as we head into 2023? There are too many moving parts to predict a straight path; it looks more like a spider’s web. However, you will continue to see craft beer grow, brewers explore more beer varieties and other products, new breweries to open, and the public to become even more attached to the convenience and atmosphere of what a local brewery brings to a community.
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
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November Spirits BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
ome autumn, we often start thinking of spices as the weather turns and the leaves fall. But we also think of variety and changing things up a little in our selections. This month, we’ve come across some highly recommended bottles we think you’ll approve of - with a pair of French whiskies, a rather novel single malt from Scotland, and a Rye whisky from Alberta. On the other end of the spectrum, we have some very different, unusual gins to help change things up a little.
Cambridge Distillery Japanese Gin England Awarded three consecutive times the most innovative distillery in the world, Cambridge Distillery distill their fresh botanicals individually before founder, William Lowe MW, expertly blends them into the spirit. Their Japanese Gin is the first gin made with Japanese botanicals of yuzu peel, shisho leaf, toasted white sesame, and sansho pepper spice, producing a super elegant, premium, dry, and delicate gin that needs nothing other than you to enjoy it, which we know you will! CSPC +856008 $112-118 Alberta Distillers Reifel Rye, Canada Rye-based whiskies are poised for a renaissance of sorts. Notoriously difficult to ferment, rye is often only a small (if any) portion of the mashbill of many “rye” or Canadian whiskies. Reifel is named for George Reifel, who assisted Alberta Distillers in the early days, and shows off fruit with dark, almost roasted cereal notes and plenty of spice. A clean, expressive spirit, that is damn good too. CSPC +869179 $48-52 District 9 Distilling Company Saigon Baigur Premium Dry Gin, Vietnam And now for something completely different – the first premium dry gin to be distilled in Ho Chi Minh City! Extremely fragrant, Saigon Baigur features 12 local botanicals including the distinctive, citrusy, fresh Buddha’s hand as well as lotus flower, dragon fruit, bird’s eye chili, black and green cardamom pods, and lemongrass. We’ve never tasted anything like it, and that’s very exciting as it’s quite beautiful, with evocative aromatics of its origin. CSPC +873328 $42-45 32 Culinaire | November 2022
Tomintoul Cigar Malt Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Scotland My cigar enjoying days might be staying in the distant past, but that doesn’t mean a whisky like this is out of the question. Showing off a little with all those sherry cask notes and nutty, honey aromas, a gentle smokiness creeps across the palate with prominent spices. Rich, smooth, and full flavoured, best with a little bit of water to open things up – no cigar needed, but a bonfire or firepit will complete the experience. CSPC +846758 $128-135 Alfred Giraud Heritage French Single Malt Whisky, France The Giraud Family got their start as coopers and in cognac production, but they certainly made a smart choice in expanding to whisky, as their bottles are fantastic on all counts. Their “Heritage” expression comes across as a finely balanced, smoothly textured, cereal-driven whisky with top-shelf barrel notes and a bright fruit character showing on the finish. This is exactly the sort of whisky that makes for a good gift to share with the recipient. CSPC +854547 $200 Alfred Giraud Harmonie French Malt Whisky, France A very welcome treat in this French spirit, the “Harmonie” is lightly peated, but perhaps it should say, “perfectly” peated, permitting enough of the slightly oily, smoky notes to cleanly support malted, cereal characters. I found this perfect served neat (even though it’s 46 percent) with wonderful texture, but a little water would open things up enough for many. CSPC +854548 $225
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Grapes, Regions, and Expressions By TOM FIRTH
here is a certain level of uncertainty that comes with fall. Specifically, even in November there might still be a few crisp, beautiful days where it might just be shirt sleeve weather, I’ll plan at least one frost-free day to go up on the roof to put up the Christmas lights, and I’ll have the shovels and scrapers ready to go for the inevitable, ugly, shoe drop of winter rearing its head. For November, I’m recommending wines that are in many cases a little different or at least a little off the path. Not to worry though if you are feeling a little less adventurous, we have some very agreeable California reds along with some classic European bottles – but otherwise, a selection of relatively uncommon grapes, regions, or expressions. Enjoy!
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Chateaux de Bellevue 2018 Morgon Les Charmes, Burgundy, France
Morgon is one of the Crus of Beaujolais, and miles upon miles away from the bland, if “neat” fall release known as Beaujolais Nouveau. A bigger, more intense wine made from gamay, here a cherry laden, slightly brambly, flavourful wine that has a mild, simple perfume character on the nose and a chewy, slightly raspberry ripple flavour profile. Bloody delicious. CSPC +857709 $38-42
Château Mourgues du Gres 2021 Galets Dores, Costières de Nîmes, France
A blend of roussanne, white grenache, and vermentino, that just comes together almost perfectly. Lifted and nuanced aromas with lime, spice, and mineral, with a wonderful perfumed, floral character. On the palate, this really sings with crisp acids, a balance of citrus-style fruits, and a long finish. An excellent bottle that should be looked for. Match with grilled poultry, or lighter freshwater fish if possible. CSPC +870089 $26-28
LUI 2020 Pinot Noir, Mendoza, Argentina
In the heart of malbec country, we don’t see a lot of pinot noirs being made in Mendoza, Argentina. A recent Judge’s Selection at the 2022 Alberta Beverage Awards, this pinot carries some riper, plusher berry fruits with a mild leafiness on the nose. A lighter to medium bodied expression of pinot with slightly chunky tannins would make this a finer choice for salmon dishes or lighter meat-based sauces. CSPC +852291 $26-28
Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.
34 Culinaire | November 2022
Bacio Divino 2018 Pazzo, California
A red blend of sangiovese with a host of classic California red varieties, this is a juicy, layered red that is best described as sinuous or even sultry. What really takes place here is a wellcrafted red with plummy, rich fruits, a bit of spice and a lot of charm. The right sort of wine that impresses the enthusiast, but also generous enough for the occasional imbiber to enjoy. Pair up with any grilled or smoked red meats, richer, meaty pastas, or cheese. CSPC +712290 $42-45
Château de Javernand 2018 Chiroubles Indigène, Burgundy, France
Secreto de Viu Manent 2019 Gran Reserva Carmenère, Colchagua, Chile
Marqués de Cáceres 2020 Verdejo Rueda, Spain
Tomato Wheels NV Lambrusco Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Waterkloof 2019 Seriously Cool Cinsault Stellenbosch, South Africa
Andreas Bender 2021 Scheurebe Mosel, Germany
Cinsault is another grape that is off the beaten path for a lot of consumers, but in many ways, it can be fairly similar to grenache in body and fruit. Here, the grape is made in 100 percent stainless steel letting all sorts of tart berry come through, but still showcasing all these lovely spice notes and a longish, cherry and chocolate finish. Pairing is pretty flexible, but pork tenderloins or even pulled pork might be the way to go. CSPC +817267 $22-25
Likely, “scheurebe” isn’t in the pantheon of common grapes you look for at the liquor store, but this Germanic variety is making small, but significant strides with people looking for interesting and tasty whites. Look for tropical style fruits with apples and quince and plenty of zesty, citrus tones. Quite dry, and in many ways, akin to a sauvignon blanc, but a little juicier and with richer textures. Very nice, very exciting to drink. CSPC +862668 $23-26
Sogrape Silk & Spice 2019 Red Blend Portugal
Janzen 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California
Road 13 2019 GSM, Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Chiroubles is another of the Crus of Beaujolais and often a little lighter than some of the others and better consumed a little younger too. Meant entirely as a compliment, this is a great wine to enjoy in the morning with milder raspberry fruits, a mild spicy backbone, and a wonderful weight on the palate. A completely refreshing, polished, and tasty bottle. CSPC +828073 $35-39
Feeling a little bored in your wine choices? Maybe it’s time to try this sparkling red wine from Italy. Chock a block with crushed blackberry fruits with a bit of a raw, exceedingly fresh flavour and aroma profile along with a crisp acid and lively mousse. Quite dry on the palate with a touch of mocha and jelly towards the finish. Exactly the sort of wine that perfectly evokes back road adventures on a summertime day. CSPC +871967 $37-40
The Portuguese are masters of the blend. Blessed with a bevy of unique, indigenous grapes rarely seen outside their borders, they excel at producing full-bodied authentic wines. Here, the Silk & Spice is based around touriga nacional and baga but also alicante and a little syrah too. A little smoky with dried herb and deep fruit on the palate, the finish is a little more jammy than many Portuguese reds we’re likely to see, but this is definitely a quaffable bottle. CSPC +808224 $30-34
Rarely a go-to grape around my house, carmenère can exhibit a leaner, more green bell pepper or capsicum range of flavours and aromas. Delightfully peppery spice and quite dilly on the nose with a clean olive and bell pepper note, while flavours are blackberries and coffee bean with a good weight and finish. I’d love this with barbecue, especially with boar or other game meats. CSPC +369686 $22-25
It’s all too easy to remember how seriously good cabernet sauvignon can be – but forget how much of a pleasure it can be to drink. The 2018 Janzen showboats with this rather novel concept bringing all the classic flavours and aromas of good cabernet, but on the palate it’s often opulent, refined, and it all comes together perfectly. So perfectly, that it’s drinking wickedly now, but would still shine with a few more years in the cellar. CSPC +845244 $100-110
Verdejo by the glass is a fine pleasure whenever it’s offered on a wine list. This awesome grape never fails to show off how cool and different it is. Almonds and cedar with a little bit of a figgy note, but also lemon and honey on the nose. In the mouth, crisp and clean with bright stone and tropical fruits with a big, zesty finish. A beautiful match with almonds or good quality nuts, shellfish, or lighter poultry dishes. CSPC +774466 $20-22
A classic blend typically found in the Rhone Valley of France, but also to great effect in places like Australia – and the warmer climates of Canada’s Okanagan Valley. A bold and spicy little number with white pepper, liquorice root, tar, but also generous currant and cherry fruits. Flavours are very consistent with the nose, but full, prominent tannins work nicely here making for a solid, and tasty bottle that will work with saucy ribs, rich sauces, or smoked meats. Yum! CSPC +579938 $33-37 November 2022 | Culinaire 35
e tce te r a . . . Earth’s Own Oat Nog
You know the holidays are getting closer when eggnog starts to show up at grocery stores and adorn menus at coffee shops. With Earth’s Own Oat Nog, those who are lactose intolerant or following a plant-based lifestyle can now enjoy this holiday tradition too! Made with Canadian-grown oats, this beverage is creamy without being too rich, and the flavour is perfectly balanced, making it great on its own, with a bit of rum, or splashed into a cup of coffee! 946 mL $3-4 in major stores, earthsown.com for stockists. The World of Filipino Cooking: d’arbo 80% Fruit Spreads
For over 140 years, the Darbo family have been making their all-natural jams in Austria based on an old family recipe using only four ingredients: fresh fruit, granulated sugar, pectin, and lemon juice, and now they’ve launched a new 80 percent fruit range, relying less on added sugar and more on the fruit’s natural sweetness. These new fruit spreads come in raspberry, apricot, blueberry, strawberry, and mixed berry options, and taste just like homemade jam! 250 g and/or 450 g jars $5-7 at IGA and Walmart.
Food and fun in the Philippines, by Chris Urbano. Filipino cuisine has been flying below the radar of many foodies, but we think its time has come to take centre stage! As well as the recipes in Chefs Tips to make at home, here’s an easy-to-follow cookbook with more than 90 recipes of Filipino favourites, each with a photograph, including the fundamentals of cooking the dishes, eating like a Filipino, and a really helpful and beautifully illustrated explanation of the lesser-known ingredients. $22 Tuttle Publishing.
Are you trying to cut down on your sugar intake? The brand new Two Good range of Greek-style yogurts from Danone has just launched in Canada, made with 100 percent Canadian milk, and each serving having eight grams of protein and only two grams of sugar. They’ve partnered with Second Harvest’s Food Rescue Program too, to provide 83,000 rescued meals to Canadians coast-to-coast. Plain, vanilla, raspberry, and strawberry, $4 - 4 x 95 g, 625 g tub around $5-6 at Sobeys, Save on Foods, Walmart. Oh My Okra
Okra isn’t a vegetable most of us eat often and it’s not so easy to cook at home, so Lori and David Spadafora, of Vaughan in Ontario, have developed these crunchy little whole okra snacks using vacuum-frying technology, which cook the okra at a very low temperature to maintain over 80 percent of the nutrients. Available in Lemon Dill, Spicy Sriracha, and Lightly Salted, at Uproot Food Collective, Community Natural Foods, some Calgary Co-op stores, healthyplanetcanada.com, lowcarbcanada.ca. 40 g bag, $6-7. 36 Culinaire | November 2022
Silk Barista Almond and Oat Base
Since they first cropped up in Canadian grocery stores 20 years ago, Silk has grown up a lot, introducing a wider range of plant based products far beyond soy milk. Now, Silk has upped their coffee shop game, too. ‘Made by baristas for baristas,’ Silk Barista almond and oat bases are a dream to use with kitchen frothers, whether you’re making hot lattes or cold foam, and we especially love the subtle sweetness of the oat base in a regular cup of java. 946 mL $6-7, widely available, silkcanada.ca
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One Special Night Only - Winemaker PUBLICATION: Culinaire Magazine (Alberta) Dinner at Shoe & Canoe! FINAL 1.0 BLEEDS: FILE REF: 0.25 in wg-ad-half-pg-culinaire-1-final Saturday November 19 Bookings are coming in for private Amanda Eastwood of Marionette Holiday Vine & Dine dinners and get Winery in Salmon Arm, BC, will be with togethers, so reserve your date soonest us to take us through their premium if you're planning an event for your range at this upscale six-course pairing company or group! dinner. Vine & Dine at Flower & Wolf Vine & Dine at Safari Grill Saturday November 12 and Wednesdays November 30 and Friday November 25 December 14 Flower & Wolf is always excellent, so We’ve been coming back to Safari Grill don’t miss these two superb, paired for over ten years as our six-course six-course dinners. Last year we sold pairing dinners here are consistently and out quickly! reliably delicious! One-Off Special Premium Pairing Vine & Dine at One18 Empire Dinner at T.Pot Thursdays December 1 and 8 Wednesday November 16 We’re long overdue a return to One18 We’re looking forward to being back Empire’s private dining room so we’re at T.Pot for another delicious pairing back for two evenings of chef-created, evening of modern Cantonese dishes six-course pairing dinners! – a six-course pairing banquet!
This upscale annual pairing dinner upstairs in Bonterra’s wine room sells out fast every year! Vine & Dine at Eleven26 Brasserie Sunday December 18 We’re excited for this one-off 6-course premium pairing meal at Kensington’s brand new Eleven26 Brasserie! These evenings can – and do - sell out rather quickly, so check them out at culinairemagazine.ca/events and email firstname.lastname@example.org to reserve your places. Email to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city. We try to cater for all allergies.
O PE N TH AT B OT TLE
Mathieu Pare BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM
n Mathieu Pare’s first day at school, they were asked to draw what they wanted to be when they grew up. Most boys drew policemen and firefighters, Pare drew someone wearing a tall white hat, holding a pan of eggs. “I was crazy about food and eating,” he says. In Quebec, his family were passionate food and wine enthusiasts, and it rubbed off: “I became an expert and developed a palate for fine maple syrup from a young age,” laughs Pare.” His interest in foraging food from the land came from his mother’s family, where produce came from the farm, not the store. The family moved west for work, and his idea to be a chef wasn't supported, so Pare studied Restaurant and Hotel Administration at SAIT, and worked at Earls and The King and I. On graduating, he took a sales job in his father’s gemstone mining and jewelry manufacturing business where he traveled to Asia, Latin America, and the US. “On the road I got to learn about food from different parts of the world,” he says. “It fascinated me, and I loved it.” His vision for the future, however, was still to cook professionally, and his quest to learn all aspects of the industry has been quite a journey. Enrolling at SAIT as a mature student with work experience, Pare was serious about education, and he was awarded the Governor General's Academic Medal. At school he’d been lucky to work at La Chaumiere with Chef Bob Matthews, and he leapt at an opportunity to work at Quails Gate Winery’s Old Vines restaurant, where he enjoyed exploring
38 Culinaire | November 2022
the influence of terroir on food and wine. Wanting exciting jobs that would be beneficial for his career and progression in the kitchen, Pare moved back to Calgary to Rouge Restaurant soon after they'd received the San Pellegrino award, before being accepted by Royal Canadian Pacific as a chef. “The train was magical,” he says. “This travelling dining room would cross the landscape in southern Alberta and into the Rockies, out to the coast, and then to Toronto or down into the States. I loved it.” To gain skills to use later though he needed to move on, and took a position at Boxwood Café in Memorial Park. “The size of the kitchen was very similar to the galley on the train,” Pare laughs. “I loved that restaurant and working with that team, but I lived in the East Village and Char Bar opened, and I was really interested in live fire cooking. It was a very professional, serious work environment - great managers managing a great business, and I got to learn how to cook beef and cook steaks.” In 2017, Pare was recruited at Tofino’s Wickeninish Inn, and keen to work with seafood and foraged ingredients, but soon after moving there he learned of a very interesting position at Canada Beef, where he is still today.
“Considering my career path in culinary and the changes that I made along the way, this has been one of the longest in any one place,” he smiles. “And it's one of the best jobs. I've had some amazing jobs and they've all brought value to my experience, but working for the producers to market and build value for our great Canadian beef, it's a responsibility I take quite seriously. The impact can be very significant.” What bottle is Pare saving for a special occasion? “I like wine and I used to like it more, but now I'm more into beer, and when I think about opening that bottle, I think more about opening that tap,” he says. Pare is enamored with the Alberta craft beer movement, the quality of the products, and availability of taprooms. “The experience of drinking it from the tap freshly made is really, really lovely. I thought long about this question, and I thought, ‘what would I want to celebrate with?’ It would probably be a freshly poured pint of Ol' Beautiful Pegasus, a dry hopped American-style Pale Ale. “The local products here make me feel proud. I want to support what we grow and what we produce here, including the barley and the products from it.”
"When I am in really great trouble, as anyone who knows me intimately will tell you, I refuse everything except food and drink." -Oscar Wilde
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