Culinaire #10.8 (January-February 2022)

Page 38

MAKING THE CASE

For Californian Wine By TOM FIRTH

Since the “Judgement of Paris” in 1976, where in a famous blind tasting (in Paris!), wine from the newfangled wine region of California outperformed the wines of Bordeaux – long held as the paragon of quality wine around the world, California has been continuing to produce stellar wine after stellar wine. There are many reasons why California can manage this, a near perfect climate for winemaking, that can-do American dream, access to capital. There’s that old joke you’ve likely heard? …..How do you make a small fortune in the Napa Valley? Take a large fortune and start a winery! This month, it’s all about California’s wine with plenty of Napa cabernets, Sonoma zinfandels, and much more worth trying and bringing to the table! Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Merryvale 2018 Silhouette Chardonnay Napa Valley, California

Drinking this chardonnay was a pretty spectacular way to start a day. After that revelation, there isn’t too much else to say about it. So many ripe and balanced fruits of nectarines, peaches, and tropical fruits, but also spicy and creamy notes too. My notes also called this wine sexy and sassy, but what it really is, is a fine, world-class chardonnay for a special occasion. CSPC +711024 $95-110

Sequoia Grove 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

Such a remarkable, and quality-driven expression of cabernet sauvignon. Deep cherry and cassis fruits, with graphite, cola, spice, and cedar/capsicum aromas, but the list doesn’t stop there – it goes on like this! Firm tannins, but not too heavy – perhaps in small part due to 20 months in barrel, with zippy acids and an almost silken texture on the palate. Big and chewy, this is the right sort of wine for a big, beef-centric meal. CSPC +740382 $62-65

Robert Biale 2019 “Party Line” Zinfandel North Coast, California

One of the masters of zinfandel, Robert Biale knows how to bring out the best from this grape. For those old enough to remember a “party line” - an open phone line, which wasn’t very private. The Biales provided wine during prohibition, often over these lines using some select code words. Party Line is all about brambly fruit, loads of spices, a bit of jamminess and also about being delicious. A fine match for pork or spicier dishes with a little bit of fat. CSPC +810883 $35-39 Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

38 Culinaire | January/February 2022

Racines 2017 Santa Rita Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, California

It can be rather hard to find out a lot of information about the winemaking philosophy at Racines, but what becomes apparent every step of the way is that this is a place where no decisions are made lightly, and every decision seems to be focused around “what will make the best wine”. Deep and complex with a fine, pure expression of the grape – it’s almost staggering. Long story short, if you are a fan of great pinot, this should be on your radar. CSPC +847297 $85-90


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