Issuu

Africa’s Entrepreneurs Tell a New Food Story

The Quest for

Black Food Sovereignty in Toronto

ERIC ADJEPONG Leaves His Culinary Footprint in the U.S., Africa and Beyond

Preserving

Gullah Geechee

Culture and Cuisine in Savannah 1 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024 2022/2023

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ISSUE PREVIEW

Eric Adjepong is inspired to explore foods and cultures of Black diasporas wherever his travels take him.

6 BUILDING COMMUNITY THROUGH FOOD

Brothers Rudy and Joel Lainé are bringing people together through food they like to call Afropean street food at New Soul Food in Paris.

10 THE ART OF SIPPING TEA For singer/songwriter evrYwhr, a passion for discovering amazing teas inspired his curiosity to research teas from Mother Africa.

12 FLAVORS OF THE DIASPORAS

Travel the globe in your kitchen with 10 recipes that share history, culture and flavors inspired by Africa and its influence throughout the diasporas.

17 NURTURING GHANA’S FOOD TALENT

Dr. Wanida Lewis founded Ghana’s first coworking hub Crescendo Foods to provide a safe space where innovative ideas can be nurtured and brought alive.

Photography: Devin Brogden, New Soul Food, Marta Rivera Diaz, schmenna and Vislyy_

40 AMPLIFYING BLACKOWNED ACCOMMODATIONS Since launching in 2018, Sleep in Africa has created a platform for travelers wanting to stay at Black-owned accommodations in Africa.

45 TAKING GARIFUNA CUISINE MAINSTREAM

Honduran cookbook author Isha Gutierrez Sumner feels the time is right to introduce the history and flavors of Garifuna cuisine to homes in the U.S. and beyond.

On the cover

Eric Adjepong, photo by Devin Brogden. Shot on location at Sankofa Children’s Museum of African Cultures in Baltimore, Maryland.

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Afropean Street Food

you think about the country. If you open your mind, I can speak to everyone. All the dishes on the menu some people know. Some [are] from Cameroon and some from Guadeloupe, and this is the best way to talk to people,” says Rudy. With some recipe modifications needed due to not being able to find specific ingredients, some of the duo’s popular dishes on the menu include the Afrocaribéenne (braised chicken with West Indian curry, Afro-Caribbean sweet potato duo and coconut vanilla sauce), the Afrosubsaharienne (braised chicken with penja pepper served with basmati rice, plantains and a Cameroonian spiced peanut sauce) and the Afrovégane (cassava semolina, candied tomatoes and herbs, plantains, corn on the cob and braised okra with a sauce of your choice). The Lainés add extra touches to dishes by creating special concoctions, cooking over charcoal, adding special herbs and spices and creating sauces such as a yassa sauce, which uses kankan spices and more.

assionate about cooking and entertaining, brothers Rudy and Joel Lainé embarked on a culinary The Power of Food journey several years ago in Paris. When speaking about New Soul Food, The brothers know their way around the Rudy shares that what he is doing with kitchen as they prepare dishes rooted in his brother goes beyond cooking good their parents’ homelands—their mother food. “We try to educate White and is from Cameroon and their father from Black [people]. The food is the best way Guadeloupe—under their brand New Soul to touch everybody,” he says. Food that includes two restaurants, a food And they have the fan base to do so. truck, a food booth and a line of hibiscusNamed “Best Food Truck” by the Street infused drinks. Food International Festival in Paris in Rudy and Joel like to call their approach 2017, their first venture, L’Afro Truck, to food “Afropean,” which allows them has served food on the forecourt of the By Angela P. Moore to incorporate ingredients and cultures National Library of France (François(@travelnistatravelagency) into dishes served on their award-winning Mitterrand site) and La Defense. food truck, L’Afro Truck, and at their Everywhere they go, the lines grow with restaurants Le Marquis (The Marquis) and La Darkanda new and repeat customers. This proved helpful when opening (Dark Kitchen). Le Marquis in 2019. The culinarians’ goal is to introduce Parisians and those visiting the city to braised chicken, a dish of African street culture. They have done that and so much more. A Family That Cooks Together If you come for the food, be sure to have a drink, specifically The Lainé brothers are no strangers to the kitchen; they come one of the hibiscus-infused drinks, a frozen cocktail or beersap, from a family of chefs and pastry chefs. Growing up, the brothers a blonde ale beer the duo created. would help their father at the family’s restaurant. According As word continues to get out about these two brothers in Paris, to Rudy, the brothers loved to cook with their father, and they more food enthusiasts near and far will soon be introduced to couldn’t wait until they were grown so they could follow in his their passion and commitment. Both Rudy and Joel believe that footsteps. Now in business for over seven years, Rudy hopes using food as a way to connect people and cultures creates a better to one day come to America to share his version of soul food. place for everyone. “My dream is one day to go to New York,” he says. Visit newsoulfood.com for locations and hours and follow At all of their locations under New Soul Food, Rudy and Joel Rudy and Joel on Instagram (@newsoulfood) for happenings, are intentional about representing their family roots and the events and more. impact that they can have. “When you think about one dish, 6 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024

Photography: New Soul Food

Rudy and Joel Lainé Bridge Traditions with New Soul Food in Paris

Unconquerable African Spirit Chef Victoire Gouloubi rises to celebrity ranks in Italy.

By Phyllis Armstrong

hildren born with health challenges often struggle with acceptance. It was true for acclaimed chef Victoire Gouloubi (@chef_victoire) growing up in the Republic of Congo. She found herself relegated to kitchen duties during family celebrations. Gouloubi was very thin, and her family felt guests would see her, assume she was ill and feel uncomfortable.

Photography: Ph. Manuela G. Milani

Top Chef Stardom Despite neighbors predicting she would die in infancy, Gouloubi lived, endured, moved to Italy and became a celebrated chef seen on television. She was a finalist on “Top Chef Italia” in 2017 and the first African to compete in a professional cooking competition in Italy. She also became one of the most popular contestants on 2023’s “Top Chef: World All-Stars London.” Her achievements impressed people in her homeland, including a beloved uncle. “The first time he saw me on the TV, he was in Africa. He said, ‘You can’t imagine how the Congolese people are sitting and waiting to see you on the TV.’” Gouloubi’s uncle advised her to leave law school and become a chef after she arrived in Italy as a 20-year-old refugee from the war-torn Congo. She remembers him saying, “I think you have great character. You never give up, but your way is in the kitchen.” The unconquerable spirit Gouloubi developed preparing meals for her sizeable Congolese family grew resilient in culinary school and on her first jobs in Italy. She worked her way up from dishwasher to executive chef, cultivating a talent for combining African influences with Mediterranean cuisine. The Top Chef competitions attracted new admirers. “It was an opportunity to connect with people and come in contact with African Americans. This is my second family in America.” Gouloubi used some of her favorite ingredients on the Top Chef shows, including Italian cheeses and African 7 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024

cassava root. “It is an amazing product. It is gluten-free. You can make pasta, you can make it into a cream, and you can use it for baking,” the chef notes. After working under the tutelage of two-star Michelin chef Claudio Sadler, Gouloubi began earning recognition and respect for her exceptional culinary skills. She was named Woman of the Year at the 2015 Africa-Italy business awards. She also received the Touring Club Italia award for excellent cooking.

Rising Above Racism Gouloubi battled racism, sexism and more to become one of Italy’s culinary treasures. “To be Black means to fight from the first day you are born,” she says. “African American people know what it means to fight every day. You can be a chef, a nurse, a doctor or a lawyer. But when you are Afro, you are fighting every moment, everywhere.” Those years of struggle required soul-deep stamina. Gouloubi became emotional while describing how she slept in a train station when the culinary school closed on weekends. “I am starting to cry because when I think about my past, it was very tough. I experienced every kind of violence in the train station. If you go to the police and say I have some injuries from violence, they say, ‘You have to go back to your country. Go home. It’s not your place.’” She got through being lonely, impoverished and mistreated with dignity and determination. Gouloubi recalls how a departing chef in Milan sent her to wash dishes when she arrived for her new position as executive chef. He assumed the new chef would be a White man. “The hospitality manager saw me washing dishes and said, ‘Chef, what are you doing? Sorry! Sorry!’” She remembers the manager’s apology with amusement and the shocked look on the kitchen staff’s faces when they finally realized who she was. “I said, ‘Good morning everybody. It’s nice to meet you. I am Victoire. I am your boss.’”

Advancing African Gastronomy Now, the 42-year-old lawyer’s wife and mother of two is a private chef catering celebrity parties and special events. She was on the verge of being awarded a Michelin star for her restaurant Victoire when she sold it in 2015. Her primary focus today is expanding the world’s knowledge of African gastronomy. Her Sky TV cooking show, “My Africa,” resumes filming in the fall. Gouloubi will also travel back to Africa to continue working on a self-funded film about the achievements of African chefs worldwide. While Chef Gouloubi’s mission is no longer getting Michelin stars, she does dream of visiting the U.S. “Cooking for people, taking the time to care for people and love them in the kitchen, that’s what I want to do.” Listen to more of Chef Victoire Gouloubi’s story on the podcast Diaspora Food Stories at diasporafoodstories.com. WWW.CUISINENOIRMAG.COM 7

events space. Where I’m sitting right now can sit anywhere from 10 to 50 people.” The space can be used for pop-up dinners. Any U.S. traveler to Ghana is welcome to visit for a culinary experience with a local chef. “We’re about having people experience Ghanaian cuisine in a different way.” And there’s a tasting room, which also serves as a mini photography room “because of the beautiful light.” Then there is Dr. Wanida herself, as she is fondly called, available with her food science expertise to mentor, advise, problem solve and help with tastings and practical matters such as safety and hygiene. Also, to team up with emerging brands in partnerships and attend expertpanel workshops where food-focused business ideas can be discussed, fleshed out and made real. The hub provides a safe space where innovative ideas can be nurtured and products worked on. For instance, Ghanaian products, herbs and spices, for which there is potentially a world market. It’s a space where the unity and diversity of Africa as a continent—with its resilience, culture and boundless potential—can be celebrated.

A Shifting Mindset Lewis notes that entrepreneurship in Ghana is often driven by necessity, but there are also those who, like her, spot a gap. “You’re also seeing this rise in entrepreneurship from people across the diaspora, and you have this crisscross of diasporans and Ghanaians.” All of these inspiring conversations around opportunities. It is Lewis’ first big-time entrepreneurial venture. “I’ve launched small ones before, like with my yoga.” This multifaceted woman is qualified to teach three types of yoga: restorative, yin and vinyasa. Her holistic focus is to gift her students with the ability to rest in their bodies because, as she says, “It has been ingrained among those of us in Black and Brown communities that being productive all the time equals success, which is not what it means for me or should mean.” Back to her new venture. “When you start something, you have to spend time marketing and educating the public, no matter where you are in the world,” she muses. “That’s the thing about entrepreneurship, connecting, doing novel things. We’re able to transfer energy to each other and address opportunities and challenges.” All this in an environment very different from the one she left in the U.S. Not that she wasn’t used to being among mainly people “who look like me.” Also, “I come from an interfaith household, 18 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024

my dad is a Buddhist, my mom identifies as Christian, so being open-minded and meeting people from different parts of the world was not unusual. But same as in the U.S., there are the cultural differences, depending on where you’re from. Here, you’re adapting to dialects, local language, understanding customs and mannerisms.” And lifestyle differences, living in a climate and environment where you can dress casually. “I miss the cold sometimes when it’s way too hot, but I can wear sandals all the time. I had a lot more hair when I got here. Cut it all off. It’s been very freeing.” And whereas in the U.S., “You have to go to the grocery store or wait for Saturday’s farmers market, here people sell stuff on the roadside and the open-air markets. I pick up a pineapple on the way to work, a mango when they’re in season.” Going back to that sense you have to be productive all the time, she declares, “You can’t bring that mentality here. Being here forces you to slow down. To be more intentional about how you are, who you’re with.” This among an abundance of mango trees and coconut palms.

WHAT’S IN YOUR GLASS Discovering new wines to enjoy any day or during special occasions that are Black-owned has never been easier than now to find. Shoe Crazy Wine Exclusive White | $14.99 Colombard is the primary grape for this semi-dry wine with a full body and delicate finish. A refreshing and crisp sip that is easily enjoyed with spicy foods and Asian cuisines. shoecrazywines.com Edelheiss Sparkling White Wine | $32.99 Müller-Thurgau and reisling grapes provide the perfect blend for this sparkling wine that is made in Germany. Notes of tropical fruit give way to a crisp palate and refreshing finish that complements a great charcuterie board, lighter fare and desserts. edelheiss.com Ward Four Wines 2022 Viognier | $42 Aromatic and balanced, notes of jasmine, elderflower, chamomile tea and lychee are best expressed when this viognier is nicely chilled. Recommended pairings: seafood, cheese and dishes with a hint of spice. wardfourwines.com The Smith 2019 Red Wine Blend | $33 This blend of cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, syrah and ruby red is aged in French oak for six months and yields a luscious red wine that picks up notes of black cherry, black currant and clove. The soft finish pairs well with a hearty pasta, beef stew and meat lover’s pizza. thesmithwines.com Responsible Hedonist 2022 Rush the Stage Red Syrah | $35 Out of New Zealand comes this light-bodied syrah that is vegan-friendly with notes of red plum, wild strawberry and a hint of spice. The silky smooth palate makes it easy to enjoy with a great steak, tacos and even pasta. responsiblehedonist.co.nz Amoy Wines Rosé | $57 A Napa Valley rosé that is light and crisp for a warm summer day, yet satisfies the palate all year long with expressed notes of citrus, melon and strawberry. The versatility of this wine complements fruits, cheese, shrimp and chocolate. amoywines.com Fog Crest Vineyard 2018 Estate Pinot Noir | $70 Ruby coloring with subtle aromas of red berries mixed and hints of licorice are accompanied by hints of black tea and dark berries. A lively mouthfeel with silky tannins for pairings to include French cheeses and pizza. fogcrestvineyard.com Sip & Share Wines Ruby Red Port | $19.99 Handcrafted and vegan, end the meal with dessert paired with this port wine that offers notes of chocolate and cherries. This medium body is just enough for cheesecake, a molten cake or good ole chocolate chip cookies. sipandsharewines.com

Pricing at time of publishing. State and country availability and shipping varies per producer. Refer to each producer’s website for information and details.

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Recipes: ENTREES Stewed Oxtails with Fonio Oxtails are a staple in the diet of many African Americans. Literally a cow’s tail, this tougher cut of beef was given to enslaved people and continues to grace our tables as sought-after comfort food. Co-founder of Yolélé and Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam exposed the Western world to fonio, one of West Africa’s oldest grains. In this recipe, tender oxtails are paired with fonio to capture all the juices and soak up the flavor from this slow-cooked meat. Prep time: 35 minutes | Cook time: 4 hours, 35 minutes | Serving size: 6, 2∕3 cups fonio and 2-3 oxtails INGREDIENTS Oxtails 4 pounds oxtails 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 2 teaspoons garlic powder 4 teaspoons Aleppo pepper ½ teaspoon ground allspice 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 2 small onions, chopped 1 green bell pepper, chopped 4 beef bouillon cubes 4 garlic cloves 2 small tomatoes, chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 fresh thyme sprig 5 cups water salt and pepper to taste 3 tablespoons cornstarch 6 tablespoons cold water Fonio 1 package Yolélé fonio 1 cup heavy cream (replaces ½ the water in the package cooking instructions) PREPARATION 1. Rinse the oxtails under cold running water and pat them dry with paper towels. Use a paring or small knife to make small slices in the meat for the marinade to penetrate. 2. Combine Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, sea salt, black pepper, paprika, garlic powder, Aleppo pepper and 26 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024

Recipe Notes allspice in a large bowl with the meat. Rub the seasonings into the meat and marinate for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator, but overnight is preferred. Take out of refrigerator at least 15 minutes prior to cooking. 3. Heat a Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes, then add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. 4. Add the oxtails to the pot. Allow the meat to brown for 10 minutes, browning each side making sure they do not burn. Remove the oxtails and set them aside. Turn the heat down to medium. 5. Add 1 tablespoon oil and then the onions and green pepper, stirring every few minutes until slightly browned. 6. Crumble beef bouillon cubes and add to the pot with garlic cloves (be careful not to burn). Stir for 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, tomato paste and thyme. 7. Pour in 1 cup of water and stir, scraping the bottom of the pot to deglaze. Add the oxtails back to the pot. Pour in remaining 4 cups of water to cover the oxtails. 8. Turn the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 4 hours, checking every hour. Add water if the oxtails are no longer covered and add seasoning to taste each hour. After 4 hours, turn the heat to high to bring the pot to a boil.

To clean my meat, I rinse with cold water, then add 1 part vinegar to 2 parts water in a large bowl with the meat. This step is optional but is common in some households.

If you can’t find Aleppo pepper, combine 2 teaspoons of sweet paprika and ½ teaspoon of cayenne pepper. Add more cayenne if you want more kick.

Yolélé fonio is available at select Target stores, Amazon and yolele.com.

9. In a small bowl, combine cornstarch and cold water and blend well. Once the pot is boiling, pour in the cornstarch mixture to thicken the gravy. 10. For fonio, follow the package directions but replace half the water with heavy cream. 11. Serve oxtails with gravy over fonio. Recipe and photography by Takera Gholson, Flights and Foods (@flightsandfoods)

Sharing Zambian Cuisine With the World Food stylist Clara Kapelembe Bwali uses simple ingredients to create delicious recipes from her native country.

By Mira Cassidy (@miracassidy)

SWEET POTATOES, CHICKEN AND VEGGIES INGREDIENTS 6 chicken leg quarters ¼ cup store-bought peri-peri sauce 2 tablespoons ginger paste 2 tablespoons garlic paste ½ cup lemon juice ¼ cup vegetable oil 4 sweet potatoes, cut into small cubes ¼ cup butter 4 garlic cloves, crushed

Photography: Clara Kapelembe Bwaili and Tony Media

2 cups green beans 2 cups carrots, sliced 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon mixed herb seasoning

lara Kapelembe Bwali wants the world to know about Zambian cuisine. The food stylist and photographer, who was born and raised in the city of Kitwe, sees her work as a way to bring ingredients to life. “I believe a food stylist is somebody that makes food pretty. Just like you have a fashion stylist, you get a person and understand what type of body they have, and you dress them accordingly so they look presentable and elegant. This is the same thing a food stylist does.” Working with a variety of clients through her company Black Garlic (@blackgarliczambia), Bwali focuses on incorporating ingredients that are the foundation of many African cuisines, one being sweet potatoes, locally known as ifyumbu or kandolo. “Sweet potato season is a special time in Zambia. We usually enjoy them boiled or cooked in peanut butter. Zambia is blessed with different types of sweet potatoes: yellow, orange, purple, white and red. My favorite is the yellow one; its sweetness is unmatched.” This simple and delicious recipe for Sweet Potatoes, Chicken and Veggies brings a taste of Zambia into your home.

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PREPARATION 1. In a mixing bowl, add chicken, peri-peri sauce, ginger and garlic pastes, lemon juice and oil. Marinade overnight. 2. The next day, grill chicken, brushing pieces with leftover marinade until it is cooked and golden brown. 3. Peel and boil sweet potatoes until fork tender. Once cooked, allow to cool completely. Melt butter in a pan and add potatoes and garlic, turning until potatoes have a beautiful brown coating. 4. Add carrots and green beans to a saucepan with salted water and boil for 5 minutes. Remove and put veggies into another saucepan with ice water to stop the cooking process. In a clean pan, add butter. Once melted, add carrots and green beans and toss with seasoning until coated. 5. Plate chicken with sweet potatoes and vegetables and enjoy.

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Recipes: DESSERTS Makroud el Louse Cookies These gluten-free Algerian cookies are made with almond flour, eggs, sugar and spices. After baking, they are tossed in orange blossom syrup and then dredged in powdered sugar for a crunchy texture with warm spices and a slightly floral undertone. These cookies are delicious on any occasion, but are an especially lovely complement to afternoon tea or coffee. Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time: 45 minutes | Serving size: 18 - 24 cookies INGREDIENTS Cookies 3 cups almond flour 1 cup sugar ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cardamom pinch kosher salt 3 tablespoons brown butter, melted 1 lemon or orange, zested (about 1 tablespoon) 2 large eggs, beaten shifted powered sugar

Orange Blossom Syrup 2 cups water 1 ¼ cups sugar 2 tablespoons orange blossom water PREPARATION 1. For the syrup, combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool before using. 2. Mix the almond flour, spices, salt and sugar in a large bowl. Create a well in the center and add the brown butter and orange zest. Mix until the dough is moistened. 3. Add the beaten eggs and mix until a soft dough forms. The dough should be slightly sticky to the touch. If the dough is too wet, add about 2-4 tablespoons of almond flour and mix. 4. Using a bowl scraper, remove the dough from the bowl. Place on a sheet of plastic wrap, flatten the dough and wrap it tightly. Refrigerate overnight.

5. Preheat oven to 325°F. 6. On a lightly floured work surface, roll half of the dough into a log. It should be about ½-inch to 1-inch thick. Flatten the log slightly. Using a knife, cut the log on an angle into ¾-inch-long pieces. The cuts should resemble diamond shapes. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. 7. Bake in oven for 10-15 minutes or until lightly golden brown. Remove the baking sheet from the oven. Let cookies cool. 8. Lightly toss the cookies in the orange blossom syrup. Use a slotted spoon or tongs to remove the cookies and place them on a wire rack to drain for 30 minutes. 9. Toss the cookies in sifted powdered sugar. Arrange the cookies on a serving platter and enjoy. Recipe by Padua Player, SugaChef Desserts (@sugachef) and photography by Riche Holmes Grant (@allthingsriche)

Recipe Notes

Traditionally, the cookies are tossed in the syrup. However, I enjoy mine baked and then tossed in the powdered sugar. Either way, these are delicious.

Feel free to roll out your cookie dough using gluten-free flour to keep your cookies 100% gluten free.

Add a touch of your favorite spices in the powdered sugar and toss them as usual.

Presentation is everything. You can put your cookies in liners for a neater look. However, arranging them on a plate is also beautiful.

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Clementine Meringue Tart

thick and starts to bubble. This should take about 8-10 minutes. Add one drop of orange food gel (optional) and whisk until the color is fully incorporated. 2. Remove the saucepan from the heat and pour filling through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl. Using a spatula, push the filling through the strainer to remove any bits of egg. Whisk in the butter and zest until fully combined. 3. Pour the filling into the prepared tart crust and smooth over the top. Cover the tart with plastic wrap and chill it in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours or overnight.

Clementines are a native citrus fruit of North Africa, specifically Algeria. They are eaten fresh and also used in numerous sweet and savory recipes in Africa. This Clementine Meringue Tart is a nod to the native African fruit with the southern method of making a meringue tart. Prep time: 25 minutes | Cook time: 4 hours 45 minutes | Serving size: 8 INGREDIENTS Shortbread Crust 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 ∕3 cup powdered sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into ½-inch cubes 1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon heavy cream ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Clementine Filling ∕3 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup cornstarch 4 large egg yolks 1 ½ cups fresh squeezed clementine juice (about 14-15 clementines) 3 tablespoons lemon juice 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon clementine zest 1 drop orange food gel (optional) 2

Meringue 4 large egg whites 2 ∕3 cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon cream tartar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract PREPARATION For Shortbread Crust 1. Place flour, powdered sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until it’s incorporated. There should not be any large pieces of butter remaining. 2. Add the egg yolk, heavy cream and vanilla. Turn the food processor on and process the dough until it comes together and forms a ball, about 20-25 seconds. 3. Form the dough into a disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. 37 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024

4. When ready to use, unwrap the dough. Place a sheet of parchment paper on the counter and roll the dough out on top of it. Flip the rolled dough, using the parchment paper underneath, into a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Peel the parchment paper off of the dough and press and fit the dough into the pan. 5. Remove any excess dough off of the edges with a knife. Prick the inside of the tart with a fork. Place the tart into the freezer and freeze for about 30 minutes. 6. Preheat the oven to 350°F degrees. 7. Place a piece of parchment paper over the crust and add pie weights or dry beans into the tart pan to weigh the dough down. Place the tart pan onto a larger baking pan. Blind bake the crust for 25 minutes then remove the pie weights by grabbing the edges of parchment paper and lifting it out. 8. Continue to bake the crust for 5-10 minutes until lightly golden. Allow the crust to cool completely. For Clementine Filling 1. Add sugar and cornstarch to a medium saucepan. Add the egg yolks, clementine juice and lemon juice and whisk together. Place the saucepan over medium-low heat and cook the mixture, stirring often, until it’s

For Meringue 1. Add egg whites, sugar and cream of tartar to the bowl of the stand mixer. Whisk together until fully combined. 2. Fill a small pot with about 2 inches of water over medium-high heat. Set the bowl of the stand mixer over the pot of simmering water. Constantly whisk the mixture until egg whites reach a temperature of 160°F, about 3 to 5 minutes and all the sugar has dissolved. 3. Remove the bowl from the heat and attach the bowl to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Turn the mixer on and gradually increase the speed until it reaches medium-high or do this step with a hand mixer. 4. Add in the vanilla and whip the meringue until it is glossy and begins to thicken and form stiff peaks, about 8-10 minutes. 5. Spoon the meringue on top of the fully chilled clementine tart filling. Use an offset spatula to spread the meringue around and give it a dome shape while also giving it a wave-like decorative pattern. 6. With a hand torch, lightly torch the meringue. Or toast the meringue by setting your oven to broil and when hot, toast the meringue for 3-5 minutes or until the meringue is browned to your liking. Chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Recipe and photography by Monique Polanco, Peaches 2 Peaches (@moniquepolanco_)

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Sleep in Africa

By Ashia Aubourg (@ashiaaubourg)

ountries across Africa are piquing the interest of Black travelers for various reasons: beautiful scenery, amazing food, and more importantly, the opportunity to connect with their ancestors and cultural heritage. But, for many, a strange paradox always arises when planning these trips—so many of the hotels are overwhelmingly foreign-owned. Fatimatou Diallo, the founder of the digital platform Sleep in Africa, knows this phenomenon too well. It wasn’t until she started researching the ownership of various hotels that she discovered this. So, when she did, she knew she needed to make it her mission to promote and make Black-owned properties more visible.

A Worldly Foundation Uncovering Diallo’s background is instrumental in understanding her passion for travel and promoting Black-owned businesses. The entrepreneur was born in Paris, France, and has roots in Guinea. Travel started young for Diallo, who would go every few years to visit her parents’ home in the West African country. 40 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024

Photography: Amadou Kane, La Réserve and Hotel Particulier Abidjan Pictured: Fatimatou Diallo, (top property) Hotel Particulier Abidjan, Ivory Coast and (bottom property) La Réserve, Senegal

The platform highlighting Black-owned accommodations in Africa.

“For my parents, it was important for them to teach me where they come from, so we would take trips often to their home,” Diallo shares, whose mother tongues include French and Fulani. When they traveled to Guinea, Diallo recalls vivid memories of soaking up lessons from her family on how to host people and secretly dreaming about what her own hotel could look like if she ever built one, she says. As she grew older, she decided to study languages to pursue her dreams of connecting with global cultures. She always knew she wanted to have a career involving travel, so she focused on establishing a foundation to do so. She decided to move from Paris to Canada, where she studied English and graduated from the University of Quebec in Montreal. Having this educational foundation offered a pathway to allow Diallo to pursue a career in translation. The future entrepreneur works as a project manager building connections between different languages to bridge an understanding of other cultures. She knew that she wanted to take this passion for connecting different communities further, and that’s when she decided to ideate ways to do so.

Photography and pictured: Siri Nairobi, Kenya

Inspiring Others to Sleep in Africa “I realized that planning a trip to certain African countries was challenging for some people,” Diallo shares. There was no platform at the time that was dedicated to highlighting accommodations in different countries across the continent. So, she decided to take matters into her own hands and founded Sleep in Africa in 2018. The platform started on Instagram and, over the years, amassed a reach of over 13,000 followers. Initially, her mission was simple: help people turn their travel dreams into a reality, send a daily dose of inspiration to those with no idea of where to start, and offer a catalog of unique gems. She also focused on all kinds of stays such as lodges, campsites, guest houses and other hotels. At first, this seemed simple enough; she could research hotels across different African countries and develop curated posts around them. However, once she started researching the ownership of properties she promoted, she was deeply disappointed that few were Black-owned. “Many people automatically think they’re supporting a Black-owned business because they’re staying in predominantly Black countries, but unfortunately that isn’t the case.” After this discovery, she decided to pivot her platform to focus on Black-owned accommodations, but this wasn’t easy, and luckily, around the same time, she knew where to ask for help. 41 CUISINE NOIR | ANNUAL 2023/2024

Shedding Light on the Lack of Diverse Ownership When Diallo decided to tap into her network to grow her platform and begin spotlighting Black-owned accommodations, she turned to some of her friends on social media. At the time, she had been following Sara Jabril (@sarajabril), a content creator focusing on traveling to African destinations—to date, she’s visited 21 countries. Diallo knew Jabril would be a great person to connect with. After many conversations, in 2021, the duo decided to collaborate on a project to highlight their collective vision of showcasing Black ownership across Africa. “Supporting Black-owned businesses is about showing up for the broader economic development in these African countries,” shares Diallo. So far, the two have worked together to spotlight over 50 establishments across 19 countries, including Rwanda, Mali, Togo and Tanzania, just to name a few. For now, that catalog lives on Jabril’s website (sarajabril.com). The catalog ranges from Dolphin’s Hotel in Somalia, which faces azure shores to the Eco-Lodge Kunda in Congo-Brazzaville (the Republic of the Congo), for those looking to sleep in cabins in the depths of nature. When you click on each place, the site allows you to access the location, what to expect during the visit, and how to contact the property to make a reservation. Travelers will find various types of accommodations that fit all kinds of lifestyles.

The Future of Booking Stays in Africa With a growing following, Diallo has big plans for the Sleep in Africa platform. First, she says she is working on developing its own website, which they hope to release in the coming months. Additionally, she envisions enabling a component that will allow people to make reservations directly on the site for any of the featured properties, shares the founder. The platform would be similar to Airbnb, where you can search for properties in different places. For Diallo, discovering ways to shine a light on Black-owned properties across Africa is essential. She knows it’s only the beginning of her journey, but is excited to see how much the platform will grow. “I have many ambitions for Sleep in Africa and for supporting Africa’s growing economy.” To discover accommodations through Sleep in Africa, follow the platform on Instagram (@sleepinafrica) and visit the website launching soon at sleepnafrica.com for all updates, accommodation options and more. WWW.CUISINENOIRMAG.COM 41