CTC International Fall 2013

Fall 2013

> CTC SOLUTIONS

Shutterstock © Diego cervo

CTC GLOBAL’S SOLUTION FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT... p. 4

> News

> Technical Solutions

> CTC Seminar

CTC Shanghai is CMA Accredited... p. 3

Bonding Fat-Stuffed Leather... p. 6

Meet CTC Experts during A+A fair... p. 7

ACCREDITATION

LEATHER

www.ctcgroupe.com

CE MARKING

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DITO > EDITO

UMMARY > SSUMMARY

Jean-Luc CHAVEROT Development and International Director, CTC Groupe

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> News

For more than 100 years, we have been working with companies in the leather, shoe and glove industries. From small and local businesses to international groups, from suppliers to buyers, whether or not they are backed by worldwide renowned brand names; they all need to safeguard their sourcing procedures and work closely with their partners, to whom they have very close ties.

Every day, the international climate creates new industrial, economical, environmental and social challenges for businesses to tackle.

With the help of our international monitoring system, we are constantly adapting and developing the services we offer and honing the value we can add. The first step is quality, with the introduction of tests, analysis and physical and mechanical measurements, as well as technical specifications. In line with our commitment to partnerships, checks on production sites have opened the door to “factory audits�.

As well as this, the social impact of what businesses do has grown, leading brands to monitor the working conditions at every link in their value chain: the result is social audits.

Last but not least, the new stage in securing sourcing procedures focuses on improving consumer protection and respecting international regulations related to protecting the environment.

The introduction of measures associated with product safety and looking for hazardous substances in companies’ waste provide an opportunity for taking up this new challenge: what kind of world do we want to leave to our children and future generations?

Every company needs to ask this question so it can make sure its activities are on the right track.

This integrated approach fits in with a company’s commitment to corporate social responsibility or CSR. It is with this in mind that CTC is launching its environmental servicies in China, with chemical analysis of the impact of companies’ waste on the aquatic environment. And it is also for this reason that CTC is participating in the upcoming UITIC congress from 13 to 15 November 2013 in Dongguan, as a scientific and technical partner.

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sÂŹ$EVELOPMENT ÂŹ - CTC Groupe is growing in France - The safety footwear seminar road show in China

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sÂŹ2ESEARCH Children learn to walk with CTC!

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sÂŹ!CCREDITATION - CTC Shanghai is CMA accredited - New environmental accreditation for CTC

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sÂŹ&OOTWEARÂŹ%VENT UITIC Congress: CSR, a Challenge for the Footwear Industry

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> CTC Solutions CTC global’s solution for sustainable development

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> Technical Solutions Bonding fat-stuffed leather

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> CTC Seminar

Meet CTC Experts - CE Marking Seminars

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EUROPE & AFRICA

ASIA

Lyon, Paris, Cholet - France Tel.: +33 (0)4 72 76 10 17 ctclyon@ctcgroupe.com

Shanghai - China Tel.: +86 21 68 55 50 32 ctcshanghai@ctcgroupe.com

Wenzhou - China Tel.: +86 577 28 80 10 88 ctcwenzhou@ctcgroupe.com

New Delhi - India Tel.: +91 11 42 09 19 00 ctcindia@ctcgroupe.com

Barcelona - Porto - Tunis ctcinternational@ctcgroupe.com

Dongguan - China Tel.: +86 769 23 03 77 70 ctcdongguan@ctcgroupe.com

Xiamen - China Tel.: +86 59 25 09 20 26 ctcxiamen@ctcgroupe.com

Ho Chi Minh City - Vietnam Tel.: +84 8 38 27 44 65 ctcvietnam@ctcgroupe.com

Hong Kong - China Tel.: +852 24 29 70 22 ctcasia@ctcgroupe.com

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NORTH AMERICA Cambridge (MA) - USA Tel.: +1 617 576 2005 ctcusa@ctcgroupe.com

WWW CTCGROUPE COM

NEWS

> NEWS CTC GROUPE

DEVELOPMENT

ACCREDITATION

CTC GROUPE IS GROWING IN FRANCE

CTC SHANGHAI IS CMA ACCREDITED

To respond to its growth, CTC Groupe is investing 5 million Euros in expanding its headquarters and technological bases in Lyon, France. !N¬EXTRA¬M§¬WILL¬BE¬ADDED¬IN¬BRINGING¬THE¬TOTAL¬SURFACEarea to 8,000 m². The main work involves extensions for the design and shoe prototype and leather workshops, the testing laboratory for luggage and for thermal tests on personal protective equipment and the chemical analysis laboratory. The investment will also be used to build a beamhouse workshop for its experimental tannery.

CTC Shanghai has just been awarded China Metrology Accreditation (CMA), whose accreditation scope covers physical tests on safety shoes and gloves, as well as safety tests for leather and textiles. This new accreditation means that they can carry out tests in accordance with Chinese standards on products designed to be sold on the Chinese market, and publish official test reports bearing the CMA logo. > More information: ctcshanghai@ctcgroupe.com

NEW ENVIRONMENTAL ACCREDITATION FOR CTC

THE SAFETY FOOTWEAR SEMINAR ROAD SHOW IN CHINA On 17 June 2013, CTC led a seminar about safety footwear in Dongguan, China with Lionel GAUDILLERE, CE Marking & Certification Manager of CTC Groupe and Charlie ZHU, Commercial and Public Relations Manager in China. This event was designed to look at standardisation issues, the presentation of major tests using videos and the effects of new standards on certification. The opinion of many attendees was that the seminar was very useful and that they learned many news things about safety footwear testing and standards. > More information about CTC Chinese seminars: czhu@ctcgroupe.com

RESEARCH CHILDREN LEARN TO WALK WITH CTC! CTC’s innovation has been rewarded! Angèle VAN HAMME, Research Engineer at CTC is presenting the latest developments from a biomechanical study looking at the impact of the design of a shoe on how a child learns to walk. After publishing her findings in the scientific review Footwear Science, she has been chosen to speak or publish at a number of biomechanical conferences, including the 11th Footwear "IOMECHANICS¬3YMPOSIUM ¬THE¬ th Congress of the International Society of Biomechanics (Natal-Brazil) this summer, the 38th Congress of the French Biomechanical Society (Marseille, France) and the 22nd Annual Meeting of the European Society for Movement Analysis in Adults and Children (Glasgow, Scotland) this fall. > More information on innovation activities of CTC : ctclyon@ctcgroupe.com

CTC is continuing to pursue its environmental development in France. More accreditation has just been secured relating to bacteriology and water for samples: - water for human consumption; - water for cooling towers and domestic hot water.

This accreditation covers all metallic and organic molecules stipulated within the framework of the establishments classified for environmental protection and waste water treatment plants. > More information: ctcenvironnement@ctcgroupe.com Organizer

Official Event

FOOTWEAR EVENT UITIC CONGRESS: CSR, A CHALLENGE FOR THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY The programme for the 18th international technical congress for the UITIC (International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians) has been put together by its scientific committee, with 23 presentations and 3 talks by invited speakers. The theme for the event will be “Corporate Social Responsibility: a challenge for the shoe industry”, and it will be held in Guangzhou (China) from 13 to 16 November. 300 people are due to attend. The event is organised by the CLIA, the Chinese leather industry association. CTC is its technical and scientific partner and Yves MORIN, CEO of CTC, is the President of the UITIC. > Online subscription: http://uitic-congress.chinaleather.org

CTC International - Fall 2013

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> CTC SOLUTIONS SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

CTC GLOBAL’S SOLUTION FOR

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

For over 100 years, CTC has been developing a close partnership with the French Leather industry including the tanning, leather goods and footwear industries. In 2013, most of us would call it a sustainable development for the leather industries in which Corporate Social Responsibility is the main guiding principle.

Thanks to its experts and environmental laboratories, CTC is the hub for all environmental issues including wastewater treatment in tanneries, carbon footprint, Life Cycle Analyses, soil pollution diagnostics and environmental management.

Using CTC’s chemical laboratories, the French industry makes sure it complies with all regulations including REACh. In addition to chemical testing, CTC offers its support when it comes to adjusting the most important chemical test campaign and thereby ensures protection for both the customer and the environment.

Hides and skins are an economical and environmental issue (resource consumption) for the French tanning and leather goods industry.

CTC has been working hard, successfully in recent years, to improve the quality of hides and skins and develop their traceability, providing solutions for the development of the luxury goods market.

CTC has created a new tool for the environmental challenge, thus completing its Sustainable Development policy: a CTC Waste Water Index.

Indeed, water is a key factor in our environmental impact and we must protect this essential resource. The footwear and textile industries are involved through the supply chain. CTC offers its clients a new way of working and thinking, giving them the chance to use a tool enabling them to evaluate and develop a sustainable approach for their whole production chain.

This programme means that we can assess and reduce the impact on water.

CTC is happy to answer any questions you have about this programme.

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CTC has helped to preserve and improve knowhow and knowledge, necessary for all craftsmen in this sector, through its training programs for craftsmen, in collaboration with Universities, schools and practical work on platforms.

CTC also protects workers through its “painfulness program� the purpose of which is to improve the quality of the goods through working conditions. Workplace ergonomics provides the framework for the programme, which also includes the general management of working conditions.

Corporate Social Responsibility is a priority for CTC and the leather industries when it comes to reducing the environmental impact and improving working conditions, customer safety and health, but also the quality of the goods and the image and reputation of a corporation.

> INTERNATIONAL SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT SOLUTION Backed by its extensive experience in France and its presence in four continents offering a worldwide network, CTC is expanding its Sustainable Development Solution on an international stage.

CTC already works with its clients in several countries helping with their chemical and physical tests, social audits, factory audits and inspections of their finished products. CTC has also developed an inspection for the raw materials, in other words hides and skin leathers, in order to guarantee quality for its clients from the first stage in their production chain.

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CTC International - Fall 2013

Audit aspect (Social audit) Technical capabilities (Factory audit, lab audit) Production Quality (Inspection) Production Quality (Physical testing) Production RSL (Chemical testing) Environmental impact (Waste Water Index)

© CTC

> CHINESE SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT SOLUTION In order to implement the Waste Water Index and comply with this global solution, in May 2013, CTC launched an environmental laboratory for wastewater analysis in Dongguan - China. Helena Perche, head of CTC environment in China is in charge of this programme.

This new CTC laboratory guarantees: - Reliable and accurate results by using the most effective techniques available, - Competitive turnaround times, - Responsive technical assistance and customised services, - Confidentiality and impartiality supported by our Global Quality policy.

Relying upon a chemical analysis laboratory equipped with efficient and modern techniques, 2 packages of analyses are available: UÊ*>V >}iÊ£ as the solution for tanneries waste waters evaluation, according to Chinese standards and/or International standards.

UÊ*>V >}iÊÓ as the solution for textile, leather goods and footwear industries waste waters evaluation.

CTC has developped a specific CTC Waste Water Index (WWI) to monitor pollution issue for leather industry. As with all the CTC Groupe laboratories that are certified by national organisations approved by ILAC: UKAS, HOKLAS etc., the CTC Dongguan environmental laboratory will apply for the CNAS certification in November 2013.

All our laboratories comply with the requirements of the international standard EN ISO/CEI 17025:2005. CTC Groupe was certified )3/¬ ¬IN¬THEN¬)3/¬ ¬IN¬ ¬BY¬!&!1¬FORall of CTC’s services: research, training, CE marking, inspections, analyses and consultancy. The quality system set up in the laboratories is integrated in the CTC Groupe global quality system.

The next step for CTC’s Global Solution for Sustainable Development is to open an environmental laboratory in India!

On an international level, CTC is a member of the CLIA (Chinese Leather Industry Association) and the AAFA Environmental Committee (American Apparel and Footwear Association). Thierry PONCET, Head of the Sustainable Development Department at CTC, has been appointed chairman of the IULTCS (International Union of Leather Technicians and Chemists Society) Environmental Commission.

CTC has a partnership with CADS (participated to a seminar in India in June 2013) and with UITIC: CTC will participate to the 18th technical congress for the footwear industry in GuangzhouDongguan from 13 to 16 November 2013 (http://uitic-congress.chinaleather.org). > Contact: Europe - tponcet@ctcgroupe.com China - hperche@ctcgroupe.com

CTC International - Fall 2013

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TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS > TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS LEATHER

BONDING FAT-STUFFED LEATHER INESCOP, the Spanish Footwear Technological Institute (www.inescop.es) which works in collaboration with CTC on various different projects propose a new solution for bonding fat-stuffed leather.

Leather fatliquoring is basically used to lubricate the fibres in leather and reduce the internal friction between the fibre walls to ensure that the leather becomes relatively soft, smooth, and flexible. Sometimes, fats are used to achieve a particular look in the leather, giving rise to what are known as “fat-stuffed leathers”.

Obtaining “fat-stuffed leathers” involves increasing the quantity of fat used in fatliquors and using polyethylene wax and similar compounds that are applied to dry leather, producing an “overfatliquored” appearance in the final product, which can cause serious problems in the bonding of this type of material.

A study carried out by INESCOP has concluded that leathers which possess less than 15 % fat should not pose any problems during bonding, regardless of the composition of the dry extract.

However, if the leather contains more than 15 % fat, the presence of some compounds such as paraffin wax or other mineral oils in the extract has a negative impact on the material’s bonding qualities.

To achieve the best results, the following points should be taken into consideration: - Whilst preparing the leather prior to the application of the product, bumps and wrinkles need to be removed, and soft roughing should be carried out if the leather in question has an extremely covering finish. Furthermore, in more problematic cases, the leather should be heated in advance using, for example, a heatsetting oven, before applying the primer immediately afterwards.

- The product can be applied using conventional systems such as with a brush but there are specific systems that make applications more regular and consistent.

- Drying conditions are similar to any other conventional priming, although the duration of the drying process can be reduced significantly if the application is carried out on heated leather.

- The application of polyurethane-based adhesives is recommended.

- The level of pressure applied should be adapted to the characteristics of the materials being used, especially those of the sole, as occurs with conventional procedures, attempting to achieve a pressing process that is uniform and consistent over the whole bonded surface. > For more information: ctclyon@ctcgroupe.com

© INESCOP

In the search for solutions to this problem, INESCOP has developed a procedure for bonding these leathers involving applying a specific primer to the leather known as G-INESTRAT. It is a simple method that reduces or eliminates the sanding/roughing process.

It can be adapted to any production procedure and it improves

the bonding results, even of the most problematic of leathers.

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CTC International - Fall 2013

CTC SEMINAR MEET CTC EXPERTS CE MARKING SEMINARS You will hear from CTC Groupe experts in the field of standardization, personal protective equipment (PPE) and testing. Attendees will hear speeches from Dr. Jean-Claude CANNOT Standardization, Quality & Technical Director and Lionel GAUDILLERE Head of CE Marking & Certification.

© CTC

> SAFETY GLOVE SEMINAR

© CTC

> SAFETY FOOTWEAR SEMINAR

- Presentation of CTC, Notified Body N°0075, CNAS-HOKLASCOFRAC-CMA accreditation, CTC’s CE Marking and certification services for safety footwear, CEN working groups (TC 161) and )3/¬WORKING¬GROUPS¬ 4#¬ ¬3# ¬4#¬6ERTICAL¬'ROUP¬ ¬OFnotified bodies European coordination

- Presentation of CTC, Notified Body N°0075, CNAS-HOKLASCOFRAC-CMA accreditation, CTC’s CE Marking and certification services for gloves, CEN working groups (TC 162) and ISO worKING¬GROUPS¬ 4#¬ ¬3# ¬6ERTICAL¬'ROUPS¬ ¬AND¬ ¬OF¬NOTIl¬EDbodies European coordination

¬¬0ENETRATION¬RESISTANCE¬SITUATION¬AND¬%.¬)3/¬ ¬UPDATING CTC’s official position and helpful for manufacturers

- Reviewing of EN 388 standard, works on abrasion and cut resistance

- Process elaborate by CTC for the following of revision programs

¬¬2EVISION¬OF¬PERMEATION¬TESTING¬METHODS ¬%.¬ ¬TO¬%.¬ standards

- Safety footwear market, volume of updated EC type-examination certificates ¬¬,AST¬UPDATE¬OF¬%.¬)3/¬ ¬ &OOTWEAR¬PROTECTING¬AGAINSTthermal risks and molten metal splashes), electrical hazard safety shoes, safety footwear with resistance to chain saw cutting, works on penetration resistance, last standard releases, footwear with orthopaedic component - Works on the update of the PPE 89/686, agenda Date: / ÕÀÃ`>Þ]Ê Ûi LiÀÊÇ]ÊÓä£Î Time: Ó\£xÊ« Ê ÊÎ\ÓäÊ« Venue: iÃÃiÊ ÕÃÃi ` ÀvÊ viÀi ViÊ Ài>]Ê£stÊyÊ ÀÊ Ê, ÊÓä£ -«i> iÀ\Ê i Ê 1 , Ê i>`Ê vÊ Ê >À }Ê EÊ Certification, CTC Groupe *>ÀÌ V «> Ì\ÊÌiV V > ÃÊ> `Ê > >}iÀÃÊvÀ Ê** ÊLÕà iÃÃ]Ê sport equipment Language: English

- Project of electrostatic resistance and electrical hazard standards for safety gloves ¬7ORKS¬ON¬%.¬ ¬AND¬%.- Works on the update of the PPE 89/686, agenda Date: / ÕÀÃ`>Þ]Ê Ûi LiÀÊÇ]ÊÓä£Î Time: Î\ÎäÊ« Ê Ê{\ÎxÊ« Venue: iÃÃiÊ ÕÃÃi ` ÀvÊ viÀi ViÊ Ài>]Ê£stÊyÊ ÀÊ Ê, ÊÓä£ -«i> iÀ\ Dr. Jean-Claude CANNOT Standardization, Quality EÊ/iV V> Ê ÀiVÌ À]Ê / Ê À Õ«i *>ÀÌ V «> Ì\ÊÌiV V > ÃÊ> `Ê > >}iÀÃÊvÀ Ê** ÊLÕà iÃÃ]Ê sport equipment Language: English Seminar fee: Free of charge Registration: Free entrance

Seminar fee: Free of charge Registration: Free entrance > For more information: cemarking@ctcgroupe.com

CTC International - Fall 2013

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Organizer

Official Event

18th INTERNATIONAL TECHNICAL FOOTWEAR CONGRESS

© Zhangyang13576997233 / Shutterstock.com - ©Ingvar Bjork

" SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY: A CHALLENGE FOR THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY " Exclusive Sponsor

13-16 November 2013 GUANGZHOU (CHINA) & DONGGUAN

Technical and Scientific Partner Media Partner

Marketing Partner

http://uitic-congress.chinaleather.org Technical Partner

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