From the Ground Up, Winter 2012

Winter

Volume 3, Issue 4

2012

From the Ground Up A Gardening and Native Plants Quarterly

Colorado State University Extension-Pueblo County 701 Court Street · Suite C · Pueblo, CO 81003 · 719-583-6566 · coopext_pueblo@mail.colostate.edu GARDEN WALKS

CARNEGIE PUBLIC DEMONSTRATION GARDEN

by Cheryl DeLong, Colorado Master Gardener, 2008

There are opportunities that I’ve missed simply because I tend not to examine details or look beyond the obvious. I always thought gardens were to be experienced during the spring and summer until someone in my Colorado Master Gardener class talked about winter gardens. And I thought, ―Really‖?

Growing up I couldn’t get enough of those flowers and plants growing and blooming around me. As a child, I invaded many of our neighbors’ gardens. As an adult, I never missed a chance to explore gardens or examine new plants on vacation or while visiting a different town, but never did I consider checking out those same plants during the fall or winter months. So, once again, Master Gardeners have expanded my universe and my thinking!

I recently visited the Carnegie Public Demonstration Garden that is part of the Penrose Library located at 20 N. Cascade in Colorado Springs. While at the library, I took time to do some general research on how this garden evolved. The garden was designed after the library was renovated. The Pikes Peak Library maintains the garden but the initial effort to design, install and raise funds was done by volunteers in the community. Several garden clubs and businesses provided labor and many donations, including sculptures, rocks, pavers and plants. Local artists have provided a variety of garden art throughout the space. The garden basically surrounds the old Carnegie Library but has the exterior walls of neighboring buildings giving protection from the cold and wind. Most of the garden faces south so the amount of sun and heat is considerable throughout the year.

Photo: C. DeLong, 2012 This is also a benefit to the garden visitor; many wind breaks and extra heat add comfort to the experience of a winter garden walk. All this strategic planning allowed for the garden to further provide nooks and small areas to read, eat lunch, or just sit and enjoy the solitude and beauty of this garden environment. To me this all translated into a fabulous outdoor reading room.

Even though it was late November, many of the plants still had foliage and some still had flowers.

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INDEX Garden Walks 1 & 2 CSU Extension 9 Year-round Gardens 2 – 4 Fabulous Families 10 2013 CMG Class 4 CoCoRaHS 11 Volunteer Thank You 4 Perennial People 12 Winter Irrigation 5 School Garden 12 Interesting Insects 5 Weed Control 13 Birdbath Ideas 6 Wicked Weeds 14 Preventing Fruit Set 7 Advertisements 15 & 17 Digging Deeper 7 Know Your Natives 16 Sharpen Your Edge 8 Harmonious Hardscapes 18

Garden Walks continued from page 1

This xeriscape garden has many native grasses and plants that compliment the variety of shrubs and trees and provides visual interest. The colors and textures of the twigs, seed pods and leaves were amazing.

Lots of red, yellow, and subtle orange bark playing off of the bright green evergreens, silver green sages, and light brown grasses bring a new appreciation to the concept of a winter garden walk. The Allgold Broom was a bright yellow-gold rigid structure softened by the Lamb’s Ear that nestled at the base. Next to this was a brilliant Crimson Pigmy Barberry. The leaves of the Blue Aster were shades of reds and greens and the Mojave Sage was still producing those lovely purplish blue flowers. There was much to look at and this time I examined closely this offering of winter beauty.

If you visit, pay attention to the selection of plants as you enter the garden. They are of the Victorian type and meant to compliment the architecture of the Carnegie building. You’ll find Bridal Wreath, lilies, and plants that appreciate the limited shade from the building. Engraved donor pavers will lead you into the side garden and will take you on a walk along different levels of pathways bordered by a variety of xeric plants, shrubs and trees.

My thinking about the life of a garden has been revised to understanding that plants are even more amazing to experience and indeed have an encore if people just take the time to observe and experience gardens during the winter months.

Gardens That Look Good Year Round Start With Interesting Plants

by Cathie Schroeder, Gardening Enthusiast, El Paso County

Conventional gardening wisdom asserts that winter interest in the landscape is achieved by selecting a certain proportion of evergreen plants and plants with attractive berries that will bring color to a landscape blanketed by pristine white snow. Yeah right! In southern Colorado that may work better in theory than in practice. Our selection of traditional evergreen plants is not as extensive as in many places where such gardening advice is written. And that consistent, holiday-card type blanket of snow doesn’t stick around here very long (if it comes at all) because of our glorious winter sunshine and warm days.

Still, after the frosts of fall and the cold nights, we have a long season without the leaves and flowers and the vibrant colors that seem such an essential element of the landscape during the other seasons.

So, are we destined to just do our best to ignore the boring winter landscapes as we peruse the seed catalogs and dream of spring?

Actually, no. And the solution is not to just leave holiday lights on the trees until March. The landscape is easily enhanced by including Above: Consider the background when well adapted plants that provide interest in the winter as well as other times selecting plants. The Mugo pine is of the year, following a few simple landscaping guidelines, and nurturing quite effective against this red stucco wall, but the bark of an appreciation of the unique beauty of the landscape here. the red twig dogwood Landscape design principles take on a renewed importance is scarcely noticeable. when plants are not covered with leaves and flowers. Arrange Photo: C. Schroeder. plants and hardscape to achieve a sense of balance between the Below: Persistent elements of the landscape. Emphasize attractive features while fruit on a barberry brightens the winter keeping in mind that most people will experience the landscape landscape. differently in winter. Winter visitors typically view the landscape Photo: L. McMulkin from the street or sidewalk or while walking to the front door.

Residents will usually view the landscape from inside the house, so creating an interesting vignette to be seen from windows in well used rooms can have a huge impact.

When selecting plants to maximize winter interest, look beyond the routine lists of evergreen plants as many of those will not grow well, or at all, in our climate. Our western evergreens include many conifers like pines, especially ponderosa and piñon.

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Year-Round Gardens continued from page 2

There are junipers of many heights; trees, shrubs and some of groundcover height with a range of winter colors, including shades of green, blue and plum. Consider including some of the dwarf conifers that have come onto the market. Many of them are now being developed from western natives and are better adapted to our growing conditions.

Broadleafed evergreens, often with glossy green leaves, provide a textural contrast to needled evergreens. Manzanita (Arctostaphylos spp.) with small glossy leaves and reddish bark, are low growing, spreading shrubs. Western native curl-leaf mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus ledifolius) and littleleaf mountain mahogany (C. intricatus) are taller evergreen shrubs. Creeping grape holly (Mahonia repens) is a great year-round plant. During the winter the leaves turn burgundy, while in early spring the new leaves are a bright yellow green and the plants sport bright yellow flowers; for summer the leaves are glossy deep green, and in fall the flowers have turned to purple berries.

During mild winters, some deciduous plants like honeysuckle vines may keep their green leaves for an extended period. Other deciduous evergreens, including euonymus, may benefit from placement where they are protected from the extremes of our weather. Avoid exposing them to the intense sun on the south or west sides of buildings and drying winter winds.

All evergreens are particularly susceptible to winter desiccation, so it is particularly important to insure that they are given adequate moisture during dry periods. ―Evergreys‖ provide another layer of color and texture in the western landscape. Native shrubs such as four wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens) and apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa) can be maintained as well-shaped, thick bushy shrubs with a bit of regular care. Other evergreys include hardy lavenders (Lavendula spp.), think English not Spanish or French, and lavender cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus). Spreading ground-cover type Lamb’s ear blends well with grey tree bark plants with fuzzy grey green leaves, such as partridge feather (Tanacetum and dry ornamental grass against the front of the Events Center in Pueblo. densum ssp. Amani) Silverheels horehound (Marrubium rotundifolium), and wall Photo: L McMulkin Lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina), thrive without much attention. However, they can look pretty sloppy by the end of the season, earlier during wet years, and need a good clean-up by early spring.

Perennials and groundcovers can provide winter color along the whole spectrum, from burgundy to bright green to silver blue, and everything in between. The variation of leaf sizes and shapes provide additional textural interest. Penstemons range from the bright green of pineleaf penstemon (Penstemon pinifolius) and to the silver blue of Palmer’s penstemon (P. palmeri). Most creeping veronica species keep their leaves which can take on a burgundy coloration during the cold months. They green back up and bloom early in the spring, sometimes reblooming sporadically throughout the summer. Sedums and Sempervivums provide both color and a contrasting texture. Unlike lawns, groundcovers do not have to be planted as a big flat field. The addition of a few rocks to an area with low growing plants provides more visual interest, as does ―dirt work‖ to create planting levels.

Maintenance choices also impact the appearance of the winter garden. Many evergreen perennials will benefit from having the flowering stalks cut back to below the level of the leaves. Some can even be sheared, especially if done soon enough after blooming that new growth will hide any resulting woody stems.

Non-evergreens can have their seed heads left for the winter, to providing another textural element. Blanket flower (Gaillardia spp.), Black-eyed Susan (Rudebeckia spp.) and bluebeard, aka blue mist spirea, (Caryopertis spp.) are all known for their attractive seed heads. The wildlife that feed on seeds help spread the plants as well as entertain us. The gyrations of a squirrel swaying back and forth as it balances on a hollyhock while getting the seeds is reason enough to leave those flower stalks up. Fruit on hawthorn trees as well as many selections of crabapples provide beauty in the landscape, as well as attracting wildlife.

The vibrancy of rose hips stands out on the dormant plants.

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Year-Round Gardens-continued from page 3

The silhouettes of trees and shrubs are conspicuous against the winter sky or against a building wall, where they can also create interesting shadows. To increase winter appeal of woody plants, consider their branching structure, as well as the colors and texture of bark. Consider the color of the backdrop as well to show plants to best advantage.

No discussion of beautiful winter landscapes would be complete without a mention of ornamental grasses. They come into their full glory in fall and winter, glowing as the winter sun shines through them.

Grasses serve as an important bridge to connect the built landscape with the natural landscape that surrounds us. Wait until late winter or early spring to cut back grasses so that their beautiful seed heads can be enjoyed throughout the season.

Throughout the winter, pay attention to what’s going on in the garden. Make note of areas that may need changes or additions to improve the winter appeal. But also take note of the happy surprises to be enjoyed and the more restrained beauty of the winter garden. Henry David Thoreau is credited (perhaps erroneously) with saying, ―It's not what you look at that matters, it's what you see.‖ No matter who said it, they could have been talking about our gardens.

CSU Extension Volunteers!

From the Staff at the Pueblo Office!

CSU Extension programs rely on adult and student volunteers to assist staff in delivering programs to the citizens of our community.

The Pueblo County office has nearly 200 adult and 55 youth volunteers who serve as Colorado Master Gardeners, Native Plant Masters, Energy Masters, Food Safety Advisors, Get Stronger-Live Longer instructors, 4-H leaders and student mentors, and Pueblo Youth Naturally Counselors-In-Training.

From all of us in the Pueblo office, thank you for your assistance in extending research-based information to the public.

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Winter Irrigation Is A Critical Part of Protecting Your Landscape Investment

by Linda McMulkin, Horticulture Coordinator, CSU Extension-Pueblo County

Winter root protection and hydration is critical, especially during our continued drought. Many of the plant health issues we have diagnosed in the CSU Extension office in 2012 can be directly attributed to lack of water in the root zone.

Warm days and drying winds can result in dehydration of turf, perennials and woody plants. How often and how much you water will depend on weather and soil conditions, and the type and location of plants in the landscape. Natural moisture, if it comes, will reduce the number of times you need to water; check the soil periodically throughout the winter. Plants located on the south and west sides of the house will need to be watered more often due to increased temperature and light levels.

New research indicates that sunscald (splits in tree trunks) is more successfully managed by adequate irrigation rather than trunk wrapping. So tree trunks, especially young trees, can be protected from both root and trunk damage by irrigation!

The rule of thumb is that established plants need irrigation once a month and new plantings more often because of their smaller root systems. Irrigate when the temperature is above 40 degrees; watering early in the day allows moisture to soak in before the evening temperature drop. Remember to disconnect and drain the hose when you are finished watering.

The limited snowfall that southeastern Colorado receives rarely makes a difference to our landscape plants. It takes about 10 inches of snow to equal an inch of moisture, assuming it melts into the soil rather than evaporates directly into the atmosphere. So unless we have an unusually snowy winter (yes, please), don’t count snowfall as part of your irrigation plan.

Mulch is the second part of root protection year round. Mulch helps stabilize soil temperature and moisture by shading the soil, protecting the surface from sun and wind. Now is a good time to apply a layer of shredded leaves, organic compost or pine boughs around vegetable and flowering perennials and woody plants. The mulch layer should be several inches thick for most plants, although roses need up to eight inches of mulch to protect the graft union. Roots continue to metabolize during the winter, so don’t pack the mulch down; loose mulch allows air circulation, which keeps the required oxygen level in the soil high.

For more information on winter irrigation, see CSU Extension Fact Sheet 7.211: Fall and Winter Watering at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07211.pdf and 7.214: Mulches for Home Grounds at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07214.pdf.

INTERESTING INSECTS

HORTICULTURAL OILS FOR INSECT MANAGEMENT

by Elizabeth Catt, Horticulture Assistant, CSU Extension-Pueblo County

Horticultural oils, when applied correctly, are an effective tool for insect management. These oils work by blocking spiracles (breathing holes in insect abdomen) or by poisoning. They can also be helpful in suppressing powdery mildew and some viruses transmitted by aphids.

Winter applied oils are very effective on scales, over-wintering mites, and leaf-curling aphids.

Dormant season oil sprays should be applied when temperatures are 40° or more, and never on drought stressed plants. Winter oils include the old stand-by Volck oil, and are useful on fruit trees for many pests.

Read all label directions carefully and be aware of plants that are sensitive to oils.

All season oils or summer weight oils are useful for foliar applications to control many pests including: whiteflies, eriophyid mites, spider mites, aphids, and scale. Do not apply oil when temperatures are too high, and try to keep spray off of sensitive plants.

For lots of detailed information about Horticultural Oils see CSU Extension Fact Sheet 5.569 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05569.pdf.

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Give That Broken Birdbath New Life by Georgi Lipich, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007 In this time of trying to find new uses for old things, as lovers of plants and birds we probably all have an old birdbath or parts of one. Don’t send it off to the dump yet! There are unlimited uses for these little structures.

One of MY favorites for this time of year is to fill the bath with evergreen boughs, place a red or green gazing ball in the center and top with a big red bow. Filling the bowl first with bird seed will also give your feathered friends a cozy place to dine.

Birdbaths make an eye-appealing base for a water fountain, using either the whole thing or just the bowl. Concrete or metal paint brings color to your fountain. The bowl can be filled with colorful stones or marbles to give it a sparkling look under the cascading water. Placing a gazing ball or old bowling ball in the center will give it interesting appeal.

Used as either an indoor or year-round outdoor planter, these gems make wonderful beds for succulents and small cacti. Fair weather garden options include spiked grasses, trailing vines and a touch of color. Be sure to place a layer of river rock or broken pottery in the bottom of the bowl for drainage. Drainage holes can also be drilled in the bottom with a cement bit if you do not intend to use the bath later on for its original purpose.

One interesting inside suggestion is to place a scented candle in the center of a cleaned birdbath, arrange hand towels and scented soaps around the candle and place it in your bathroom. An entryway accent can be an interesting birdbath filled with water and floating candles.

No base? No problem! Bowls can be placed on top of a tree stump, on the ground, on stacked landscape bricks and glued (use concrete or cement glue) to upside-down stacked terracotta pots or a porch railing.

Birds aren’t the only ones who can enjoy your bird baths...filling the bowl with unshelled nuts will bring the squirrels running! A birdbath bowl filled with washed greens and set on the ground will be a welcome winter treat for rabbits. This year the extra birdbath bowl at our house will be a holder for a quail block, keeping it off the cold winter ground.

My spring 2013 project is to recycle one of my own birdbaths into a great little patio table...painted, maybe with some decorative stones glued to the base or bowl edge, and the bowl filled with shiny glass globes (probably a cool blue color). I’ll top this with a thick sheet of glass (having had it cut professionally...a perfect place to set a cooling drink while taking a break from gardening.

These are just a few ideas...the possibilities are endless!

SEEDLING TREE PROGRAM CSU Extension – Pueblo County has applications available for the 2013 Seedling Tree Program offered through the Colorado State Forest Service (CSFS) Nursery. Interested individuals must own at least ONE acre of land. Nursery stock must not be used in ornamental or landscaping plantings. No plant purchased from the CSFS may be resold. Bare root trees are available in multiples of 25 per species. Potted trees are available in multiples of 30 per species. Orders accepted until March 30.

More information can be obtained by contacting Colorado State University Extension – Pueblo County at 583-6566 or visit http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/Pueblo/nat/seedling.shtml.

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Preventing Fruit Set on Landscape Trees by Elizabeth Catt There is a spray available that helps to inhibit nuisance fruit formation on several trees including crabapples, elms, maples, flowering pear, oak, pine, cottonwood and sycamore, as well as other species. It is critical that application be made at the correct time, which is during bloom time when 50% to 100% of blossoms are open, before fruit sets on a tree. It would be easy to recognize when a crabapple is in full bloom but an inexperienced gardener might struggle to know when an Elm is in full bloom and timing is critical to a successful application.

Florel® is a growth regulator based on a naturally occurring plant chemical: ethylene. It is a contact growth regulator that causes plants to abort the flowers and, therefore, the fruit. Florel®, which is available from Monterey Lawn and Garden, sells for about $30 a quart, which makes 10 gallons of spray. If you have very large trees you want spray, it could be rather costly. Of course, if raking up thousands of dropped crabapples makes you a little crazy in the fall, it might be worth it. More product information is available at: www.montereylawngarden.com .

DIGGING DEEPER:

THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT?

by Greg Nolan, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009, and Native Plant Master, 2011

Of course there is an app for that. We have come a long way since the Whole Earth Catalogue of my youth. With the advent of a wired mobile world and apps, there seems to be an app for nearly everything.

Like the Whole Earth Catalogue of my youth, paper plant keys may be on the way out.

Software developers are making inroads into plant identification software. Perhaps the most ambitious of these projects is Leafsnap. With Leafsnap a person can simply snap a picture of the plant, flower, tree, or leaf and the device will search the world-wide-web based on the picture to return a plant name to your device. Could our beloved Weber of today be the Whole Earth Catalogue of my youth?

Although this all seems pretty fantastic, it gets better. Leafsnap is a collaborative project between The Smithsonian, Columbia University, and the University of Maryland.

When a 12 year old kid takes a picture of a plant using Leafsnap, the kid is included into the world of scientist and researchers. The picture is geo-stamped, and then becomes part of a much larger world where the picture will be used to monitor things such as plant distribution and biodiversity of a region or plant community over time.

Currently, Leafsnap is only available for Apple products but as we know in the world of technology, it is only a bit away from being available on other platforms. I am guessing that as the technology progresses, this is one app that gardeners will not be able to leaf alone.

Garden Tip: Growing Fruit in Colorado Whether it’s grapes, apples, peaches, strawberries, raspberries or currants, Colorado gardeners have lots of questions about growing fruit in our climate. There are several CSU Extension options for learning about growing fruit:  Fact Sheets, CMG GardenNotes, and PlantTalk scripts, all available on the CSU Extension website, www.ext.colostate.edu. Just type in your topic in the search window.  Recorded 1 to 1.5 hours long webinars on apples, peaches, and various berries, including blueberries, at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/sam/webinar.html  The Front Range Fruit Growing Symposium in Longmont, CO, on February 23 and 24, 2013. For more information, go to the CSU Extension-Boulder County horticulture website and click on the link to the symposium, http://www.extension.colostate.edu/boulder/horticulture.shtml.

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Sharpen Your Edge by Greg Nolan, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009 Sharp garden tools add to your gardening pleasure because they are more efficient and safer. They cut or shear the plant cleanly. Sharp tools, particularly axes and power tools, are safer as they bite into the plant or tree rather than glancing off.

For most garden cutting tools from axes to grass shears, a person needs a few simple tools such as wrenches to remove bolts and nuts, an 8 or 10-inch, single-cut, flat bastard file with handle, a 8 or 10-inch, half-round, double-cut bastard file with handle, gloves, and an optional vise to secularly hold blades.

Most garden tools, including axes, grass shears, lawn mower blades, and curved pruning shears, are sharpened in the same manner. First, with your gloves on, try to take the blade off or apart so you can concentrate on one blade at a time. You will want to place the blade in the vise or against a sturdy object so the sharp edge of the blade is facing you. You will be pushing your file into or toward that sharp edge; wear gloves. This is also a good reason to buy a handle for your file because the handle acts as a stop to protect your hand.

Observe the condition of the blade. Is it still sharp or is it severely pitted and nicked? If the blade is pretty rough you will use your double-cut file. If it is in good shape, you will use your single-cut file. If it is concave, you will use the rounded side of the double-cut file and this will be the only file you will use for a concave surface.

For flat blades or convex blades, if you start with the double-cut file, you will finish sharpening with the single-cut file.

For axes and chopping tools, you should know that the edge of the blade should be flat across, not convex or crescent shaped. Axes that are not flat have a tendency to glance off trees into knees. If it is convex, you will want to flatten it with your file or a grinder before starting the sharpening process.

Once you have the blade in the vise or against a solid object and in a position where you can easily file, you are ready to start. Place the tip of your file at the butt end of the blade opposite the tip of the blade. Hold the file at the same angle as the original angle on the tool and at a 90-degree angle to the blade. With light force, push the file and at the same time let it travel the length of the blade and off the tip of the blade. So, with each single stroke of the file you will file the entire length of the blade. Always lift the file off the blade on the backstroke. Do this until all nicks are out of the blade and it has uniform sharpness. If you started with the double-cut file, you use the single-cut file from here on. If your tool is concave and you used the half-round file, you are done.

I like to finish my tools with a single-cut file. For my finishing strokes I change the angle of the file relative to the blade. I like 30 degrees or less. Place the file on the blade with tip of the file and the tip of the blade slightly apart; there should be a 30-degree angle or so between them. Go ahead and take a few full length, finishing strokes with the file and you’re done. You should have a very sharp blade at this point. You actually may be amazed at how sharp your tool is; handle it with care, being very careful. With gloves on, you can put the tool back together for use. A few drops of oil on the moving parts and spraying rust protective oil on the tool will add a nice finishing touch.

What If You Could Improve Your Health and Your Wealth at the Same Time This Year?

Because financial problems can negatively affect health and poor health can negatively affect personal finances, a new program being offered by Colorado State University Extension, called Small Steps to Health and Wealth. The program is designed to help you discover links between your health and wealth habits, and learn simple ways to start making small changes that can make a big difference in BOTH! Call 719-583-6566 to register for this free class series to be held January 7, 14, and 23 from 6:00-8:00 p.m.

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Garden Tip: Winter Watering Doesn’t Have To Increase Sewer Rates The Pueblo Board of Water Works continues to offer their sewer adjustment opportunity to encourage winter irrigation of local landscapes. Just fill out an online form or call customer service to report when you irrigated your landscape and that amount of water will not be counted against your sewer rate for next year. The link to the form is on their website at http://www.pueblowater.org/, then click on ―Wastewater Adjustment Program‖ or call their customer service office at 719-553-2898.

Your Trusted Local Resource: Colorado State University Extension

by Joanne Littlefield, Director, Extension Outreach and Engagement

A century ago throughout Colorado, local farmers and other citizens—concerned about the health of their crops, animals and land and water resources—banded together to create the first Extension offices.

These offices provided a local connection to the research taking place at the state’s land-grant university.

On October 1, 1912 when the first CSU Extension office was established i n Lo ga n C o u n t y i n E a s t e r n C o l o r a d o , similar higher education experiments were occurring across the nation. It wasn’t until 1914, when Congress passed the Smith-Lever Act that connected the United States Department of Agriculture to the outreach capacity of the land-grant universities, that the national Extension service was established. The opening of the Logan county office was followed shortly after with offices in El Paso, Pueblo, Mesa, Boulder, Morgan and Prowers counties.

Colorado State University Extension serves current and future needs of Coloradans by providing the information and programs that safeguard health, increase livelihood and enhance well-being. The programs are diverse and reflect the unique needs of each of the 60 counties served. In partnership with the local county government, a wide variety of programs and educational classes are offered. Through these, people learn how to apply science-based information in their daily lives in order to make informed choices about everything from personal finances and healthy living to community issues, landscaping decisions and crop varieties. This year also marked the opening of the 60th Extension office, in Clear Creek County.

Extension is a partnership of local government and CSU resources. Agents are located throughout the state, and specialists in seven colleges at the university provide up-to-date research information. In addition to the face-to-face workshops that have been an Extension staple since the beginning, in the every-increasing, fast-paced, Internet-based world, Extension in Colorado is a partner of the nationwide group eXtension (extension.org). This Internet-based educational network complements community based programs, vetted by land-grant communicators from around the nation, with 24/7/365 availability and dynamic, evolving content.

The multiplier effect is at the heart of Extension’s success. Professionals such as crop advisors or health department employees turn to Extension as the initial point of contact for their continuing education needs. Through online or face-to-face workshops, they learn of the latest research findings from Colorado State University and then take that information to their clientele. This multiplier effect also extends to the network of community-based volunteers who take in-depth training and then provide educational outreach as part of their payback agreement with the local Extension office.

Learn more about Extension programs statewide at www.ext.colostate.edu/impact.

Colorado State University Extension provides reliable, research-based information, research capabilities and resources to Coloradans from all walks of life.

Extension, which is available to residents in 60 Colorado counties, is dedicated to serving current and future needs of Coloradans by providing the information and programs that safeguard health, increase livelihood and enhance well-being.

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FABULOUS FAMILIES

FAMILY CUPRESSACEAE

by Linda McMulkin, CSU Extension-Pueblo County Horticulture Coordinator

The Cupressaceae, or Cypress, plant family is fairly easy for most gardeners to recognize, as many home landscapes contain one or more Juniper or Arborvitae. Other notable family members are redwoods, Sequoia, Bald Cypress, and the various Cedars.

Cupressaceae is a globally distributed conifer family, with members on all continents except Antarctica. Family members inhabit many ecosystems, ranging from rainforests to steppes. While many species are drought tolerant, they are rarely found in the true desert environments such as polar tundra or the central Sahara.

Members of the family are trees and shrubs with small scale- or awl-shaped leaves with a waxy coating. For most species, the leaves remain on the plant for up to 10 years, but a few species, including the Bald Cypress of the southeastern US, are deciduous. Bark characteristics vary and are described as smooth, scaly, stringy, flaking, peeling, or square-cracked. The plants have aromatic resin and many Cupressaceae species produce chemicals that inhibit the growth of fungal pathogens and resist termite damage. The wood has been used for ship building, home construction (siding and shingles), making coffins and wooden pencils, and for lining cedar chests.

Cupressaceae members develop seeds in cones, although the cone scales may be enclosed in a leathery or fleshy covering, as in Juniperus. All members of the family are wind pollinated and most are dioecious, meaning that male and female plants are separate. Juniper pollen, which is produced by male plants in astounding amounts, contributes to spring allergy problems in areas where plants are numerous.

Some plant world records are held by members of the Cupressaceae family. The largest plant (in volume) is a Giant Sequoia, the tallest is a Coast redwood, the second stoutest (in diameter) is a Montezuma cypress, and the Juniperus monosperma, showing second oldest, at 3622 years, is a Patagonian cypress. scaled foliage and male cones.

In Colorado, we have only a few native Cupressaceae. Locally, we find Photo: L. McMulkin Juniperus scopulorum (Rocky Mountain juniper) and J. monosperma (Oneseed juniper), resinous plants with persistent, often aromatic foliage and cones that are small and berry-like, about 1/4-inch wide with a blue color. On the western slope, Juniperus osteosperma (Utah juniper) is more common. In the southeast corner of the state, J. virginiana (Eastern red cedar) can be found in natural areas.

All of these species have an upright form, becoming small trees or large, multi-branched shrubs with scalelike foliage. One species, J. communis (Common juniper), is unique in that it is a low-growing shrub, has awl-shaped foliage, and prefers shaded areas, growing under taller conifers from the foothills to the subalpine.

While junipers are tough, they have potential health issues like every other plant. Long-term drought can make plants more susceptible to disease and insect problems, plus damage the roots. Voles and pocket gophers may damage bark and roots. Spider mites are often found on landscape junipers during the summer, especially if it is warm and dry. Occasional problems include galls formed by the juniper-hawthorn fungal complex and bark-borers, which have damaged upright junipers in Pueblo parks.

Many of the species used in local landscapes are non-native, originating in eastern North America or various parts of Asia. Most readily available species were chosen for their adaptability to varied conditions and fast growth rate. In the landscape, it is important to group different members of the Cupressaceae family by their water needs, which range from moderate for many non-native species to low for those native to the western United States. You can find information on growth rates and water needs in the CSU Extension fact sheets on evergreen trees and shrubs at www.ext.colostate.edu.

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The Community Collaborative Rain, Hail and Snow Network

By Emily Lockard, Extension Agent, Range & Natural Resources Management

What is CoCoRaHS? The Community Collaborative Rain, Hail and Snow Network, is a non-profit community based, high density network of volunteers who take daily measurements of rain, hail and snow in their backyards.

A brief History.

CoCoRaHS came about as a result of a devastating flash flood that hit Fort Collins, Colorado in July 1997. A very localized storm dumped over a foot of rain in several hours while other portions of the city had only modest rainfall. The ensuing flood caught many by surprise and caused $200 million in damages. CoCoRaHS was born in 1998 with the intent of doing a better job of mapping and reporting intense storms. As more volunteers participated, rain, hail, and snow maps were produced for every storm showing fascinating local patterns that were of great interest to scientists and the public. By 2010 CoCoRaHS became a nationwide volunteer network.

Volunteers of all ages welcome!

The foundation of the CoCoRaHS network are individuals and family volunteers of all ages, from all walks of life, willing to spend a few minutes each day measuring and reporting precipitation. This is a project we can all help with.

Why is there so much interest in rain, hail and snow?

Precipitation is essential for life. It varies greatly with topography, storm type and season. It really is true that it may pour on one side of the street and be dry on the other. A portion of a feld may be pounded by hail while others nearby receive no damage. Snowfall may pile up in one neighborhood and only dust another. Rain, hail and snow are fairly easy to measure, and the data collected are very important.

Meteorologists, hydrologists, engineers, builders...you name it, everyone seems to care about rain, hail, and snow. And for some, like farmers, it is their very livelihood.

What will our volunteer observers be doing?

Each time a rain, hail or snow storm crosses your area, volunteers take measurements of precipitation from as many locations as possible (with 4‖ diameter rain guage). These precipitation reports are then recorded on our Web site www.cocorahs.org. The data are then displayed and organized for many of our end users to analyze and apply to daily situations ranging from water resource analysis and severe storm warnings to neighbors comparing how much rain fell in their backyards.

Join CoCoRaHS Today!

Map of Colorado from the CoCoRaHS website. The CoCoRaHS is a practical, enjoyable and useful activity. If you dots indicate reports from CoCoRaHS volunteers. have an interest in weather and would like to help your local community, as well as scientists and others interested in precipitation, then CoCoRaHS is for you. It only takes a few minutes a day and gives you the chance to participate in real hands-on science. You’ll be amazed at what you learn as you become more aware of the variable weather that impacts you, your neighbors, your state and our entire country.

For more information contact CSU Extension in Pueblo County or go to the CoCoaHS website at http://www.cocorahs.org 11

PERENNIAL PEOPLE

DONNA DEMETER

by Rhonda Sierra, Colorado Master Gardener, 2012

Donna Demeter and I attended the Colorado Master Gardener training in 2003. We also worked together in the garden department at Lowes that year and became fast friends. Donna possessed a vast knowledge of xeric and water-wise plants and this was her driving passion. She was a talented garden designer. One of Donnas’ designs was featured in the first Xeriscape Tour of Pueblo and Pueblo West.

Donna’s home garden was filled with a collection of beautiful, low-water plants. We took an annual trip to Paulino’s Nursery to hunt for plants and she always found a unique one I would have overlooked. I learned so much about different plants from her on these ―expeditions‖ because she was so generous with her knowledge. Donna was a staunch believer in using xeric and native plants and worked hard to convert anyone she could to water-wise gardening. She Donna at a cold and snowy had a deep understanding of gardening with a ―sense of place‖ here in the arid NPM class in May, 2008. southwest, even though she was originally from a much wetter climate. Some of Photo: L. McMulkin her favorite plants included penstemon, cacti, agave, and salvias.

Donna was studying to become a Native Plant Master when she was diagnosed with a life threatening condition. She battled bravely for the next three years and passed this last April, 2012.

Her memorial card quoted Nancy Ross: ―My spirit was lifted and my soul nourished by my time in the garden. It gave me a calm connection with all of life, and an awareness that remains with me now, long after leaving the garden.‖ I will always remember her as a wonderful friend and gardening mentor.

Students Harvest Vegetables From School Garden To Make Soup For The Homeless

By Cynthia Ramu, Pueblo School of Arts and Sciences, Art/Garden Teacher

Each year Pueblo School for Arts and Sciences (PSAS) hosts the annual Empty Bowls Community Fundraiser for the homeless and needy in Pueblo, Colorado. All 450 students make a handmade ceramic bowl to raise money for the area shelters and soup kitchen. A $10 donation buys a bowl filled with soup from over 15 local restaurants in the area. This year we had over 100 gallons of soup donated, including ten gallons of soup made from the harvest of our school garden that was prepared by the PSAS Garden Class. It was such a big hit we ran out of soup halfway through the evening. The soup was made with lots of cherry tomatoes, basil, bell peppers, and herbs from the garden.

Our garden is currently one of thirty in the area under the UGarden Grants in our community. I have a group of 14 students that water, weed, seed, plant, compost, and help maintain the garden this fall. My students PSAS students show off produce from the bug me all day until we finally are in the Afterschool Gardening Class and Spiral Spirit School Garden. Photo: C. Ramu it is magical. They love to do anything in the garden and most of all, harvest and prepare the produce. There is always a job for everyone. Our garden is only eight months old and it is a natural fit into the classroom at every level. Students want to explore and investigate the magic of growing their own food, along with trying new recipes and gardening techniques!

In November we harvested all of the pumpkins, sorted seeds, cleaned them out, and carefully sorted the cleaned pumpkin pieces and roasted them in the ovens. Most students had never prepared a raw pumpkin.

We also roasted two varieties of seeds and they were a big hit. But when it came to prepare the final cooked pumpkins and bake our spiced pumpkin bread cupcakes, everyone pitched in with cooking and timing the batches. We made over 200 cupcakes and divided them between classrooms to share in the harvest before Thanksgiving. What a great way to celebrate the harvest!

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Non-chemical Weed and Pest Control by John Powell, Native Plant Master, 2008 Soil solarization is a preventive, organic method of killing weeds before weed seeds even sprout. The goal is to raise soil temperature to a level that kills germinating weed seed and soil-borne pathogens.

Start by running a mower over the land to reduce the weed height, followed by using a large tiller to uproot all the weeds. Next, rake the area, removing the majority of the uprooted weeds and evening out the soil. Finally, use a garden hose to moisten the raked area.

Cover the area with a clear polyethylene sheet held down by cinder blocks around the edges, tightly stretched out over the area. The plastic can be clear construction grade plastic and vary in thickness from 1 to 6 mils. Leave in place for 4-6 weeks. The sun will kill the weeds as they germinate because it is too hot.

Plant pathogens and insects near the surface of the soil will be killed also. One disadvantage is that high soil temperatures will also kill beneficial soil microbes. After solarization, the soil is effectively sterile.

Avoid adding untreated soil products to the newly sterilized soil to prevent introducing weed seed or pathogens back into the landscape.

This method should only be used in parts of the yard without extensive tree roots. High soil temperatures can damage roots or force woody plants and perennials into early spring growth, making them susceptible to frost damage. But, solarization is very effective in vegetable garden beds or prior to installing new lawn or flower beds.

For more information on weed management techniques, see CMG GardenNotes #351: Weed Management at http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/351.pdf.

Become a Colorado Energy Master!

The Colorado Energy Master program offers participants an unbiased, comprehensive overview of energy efficiency and renewable energy in Colorado.

The program is intended to empower individuals and small businesses to make wise energy decisions by teaching the costs and benefits of various energy options. The program is also intended to train certified volunteers to share that information with others for the benefit of Colorado communities.   

Hands-on activities and local Saturday fieldtrips Reduced-cost volunteer options available Online registration will be available

Registration will open after the first of the year and courses begin in March.

The tentative course schedule is as follows:

Intro to the CEM Program—Mar 14, 2013 Courses: Energy and the Environment Class dates: Mar 21, 28, Apr 6 Energy Efficiency Class dates: Apr 11, 18, 27 Renewable Energy Class dates: May 2, 9, 18 Volunteer Resources—May 23, 2013 Continuing education credits available.

Colorado Energy Master Program—Developing Energy Wise Volunteers and Citizens CSU Extension/Pueblo County 701 Court St. Ste C  Pueblo 7195836566 If you need any special accommodation(s) to participate in this event, please contact Colorado State University Extension at 719-583-6566.

Your request must be submitted at least five (5) business days in advance of the event. Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Pueblo County cooperating. Extension programs are available to all without discrimination.

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Garden Tip: Pre-emergent Herbicide For control of crabgrass and other spring germinating weeds, apply the appropriate pre-emergent herbicide by mid-March or before the Forsythia bushes bloom.

WICKED WEEDS

REDSTEM FILAREE, A DAINTY PINK MENACE

by Mary Knorr, Native Plant Master, 2009, and Colorado Master Gardener, 2009

Erodium cicutarium, or Redstem filaree, is on List C of the Colorado Noxious Weed List, with List A being the worst offenders. The Colorado State Government’s Redstem filaree fact sheet still says it’s on List B, oops! The List C plants are wide spread, established and control isn’t required by the state, but a local county could require mandatory management.

Erodium cicutarium belongs to the Geraniaceae – Geranium family. Its common names are alfilaree, alfilaria, filaree, redstem filaree and stork's bill. The weed is a winter annual or biennial. The flowers are bright pink, 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) wide, and have 5 petals and 5 sepals. The developing green seeds look like a stork bill, hence the common name of Stork’s Bill. The mature seeds are pointy and the tail coils/uncoils facilitating a self-burring capacity when wet.

Germination occurs in the fall. The leaves are in a flat basal rosette, dark green and pinnate, with pinnately cleft leaflets. The stems are reddish and hairy. The weed remains green, even after hard freezing nights!

Redstem filaree is originally from Southern Europe and Eurasia. It is widely believed that the seeds came to North America in animal feed. Native American Tribes have used Erodium as an herbal remedy. The weed is found in all US states, except Florida. The Alberta and Manitoba Canadian Provinces also have it listed as a noxious weed too. Redstem filaree has been transported around USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / the world and is listed on the Global Invasive Species Database.

Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. An The weed has also been implicated in causing Laminitis, a painful foot illustrated flora of the northern United Canada and the British Possesdisease in horses and cattle. The seeds can harm dogs, sheep and other animals, States, sions. 3 vols. Charles Scribner's Sons, because they can become tangled in the fur and then eventually penetrate the New York. Vol. 2: 430. skin. Redstem filaree will host diseases that infect lettuce (lettuce mosaic virus) and grapes. The Plant Management Network reports that ―studies have shown that redstem filaree has the potential to compete and cause major economic losses in perennial pasture, alfalfa, annual cereals and oilseed crops.‖ Even though Redstem filaree has been down-listed in Colorado to List C, its invasiveness is still causing concerns among agricultural researchers in the United States and Canada.

I’ve read many reviews saying it’s such a pretty plant and it would make great ground cover, which is scary. There is an Excel Spreadsheet developed by Australian researchers that can test your new plants, to make sure it won’t be an ―ornamental gone bad.‖ It’s ―A Weed Assessment Model for Use as a Bio-Security Tool Evaluating Plant Introductions‖ by P.C. Pheloung, P.A. Williams, S.R. Halloy. Let’s be part of the solution, not the problem!

Editor’s note: The link for the site listed above is http://weedcontrolfreaks.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/11/Pheloung-et-al-1999-WRA-paper.pdf Garden Tip: Tips on Seed Germination Have you ever purchased a package of seed, planted it in the spring, and had nothing happen? The problem likely relates to inhibitors within the seed that keeps the young plant from coming up at the wrong time. Unfortunately, many seed packets don’t tell you how to break the built-in inhibition. You can find information about many plants on the AlPlains website, http://www.alplains.com/. This Colorado company sells seed and provides useful information on how to be successful at home propagation.

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Colorado Master Gardener Fundraiser Proceeds will be used to support local school gardens in cooperation with the Pueblo City-County Health Department UGARDENS program.

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The perfect stocking stuffer or spring gardening gift for the flower and vegetable gardeners in your life.

Sale ends March 30, 2013

2013 Spring Yard and Garden Classes Tree Care Tips for Pueblo, Instructor, Linda McMulkin, CSU Extension-Pueblo County Tuesday, January 22, 6-9 p.m., CSU Extension Rose Selection and Care, Instructor, Elizabeth Catt, CSU Extension-Pueblo County Saturday, February 9, 9 a.m.-12 p.m., SE Colorado Water Conservancy District Vegetable Gardening for Beginners and Experts, Instructor, Carol O’Meara, CSU ExtensionBoulder, with Kata Schmidt and Paul Hoffman, Colorado Master Gardeners Saturday, March 30, 9 a.m.-3:30 p.m., SE Colorado Water Conservancy District Growing Healthy Turf Grass, Instructor, Dr. Tony Koski, CSU Extension Turf Specialist Saturday April 6, 9 a.m.-12 p.m., SE Colorado Water Conservancy District For more information, please call 719-583-6566 or visit the CSU Extension-Pueblo County website at http://pueblo.colostate.edu. Registration and payment is due one week before class. Tuition for the full day vegetable class is $25 per individual or $40 for a couple sharing materials. The tree care, roses, and turf grass classes are $15 per individual or $25 for a couple sharing materials.

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KNOW YOUR NATIVES

ODE TO RABBITBRUSH

by Marcia Weaber, Colorado Master Gardener, 2005, and Native Plant Master, 2007

Ericameria nauseosa (formerly known as Chrysothamnus nauseosus) is a sub-shrub native of the western United States and Canada. It is commonly known by a variety of common names, including Rubber rabbitbrush, Golden rabbitbrush, Chamisa, and Chamiso. In our part of Colorado it most commonly is called Chamisa or Rabbitbrush. It is a member of the Asteraceae (sunflower) family.

According to Wikipedia, an ode is an elaborately structured poem praising or glorifying an event or individual, describing nature intellectually as well as emotionally. This writer is no poet; however, this article is written to praise the attributes of Rabbitbrush.

Rabbitbrush is one of the first plants to establish after a fire, helping to control erosion and give shade to forbs that come in after a fire. In the past the Native Americans used it for forage for animals, to make chewing gum, tea, cough syrup, and yellow dye. The rubbery twigs were used in making baskets. It is considered an important plant species in maintaining native insect populations, offering late summer nectar sources for bees and butterflies.

Rabbitbrush is most happy growing in an arid landscape; it thrives between 3,000 and 9,000 feet in elevation. Depending on the area, Rabbitbrush will grow from 1-7 feet tall. It has narrow blue-gray to yellow-green leaves and flexible twigs that are covered with felt-like hairs that reduce transpiration and water loss. It prefers sunny sites, and is common where recent disturbance has occurred. It is cold hardy and tolerates moderately salty soils. It can be confused with sagebrush. However, Rabbitbrush does not compete with forbs and grasses as sagebrush does.

Contrary to its name, Rabbitbrush is not eaten by rabbits, although they may use it for shade and shelter. Deer and cattle do not graze on it as it is not a very palatable shrub. The animals may graze the flowers and tender shoots in the summer, but will choose other plants if possible. If there is no other forage in the winter, deer and antelope will graze on the Rabbitbrush.

Drawing: USDA-NRCS Rabbitbrush reproduces from seeds, which are distributed by the wind in the PLANTS Database / Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. fall. Germination occurs easily, but seedlings often do not survive unless late spring Illustrated flora of the northern rains replenish soil moisture. Once established, Rabbitbrush can survive easily on states and Canada.

Vol. 3: 376. rainfall without supplemental watering. Often, seedling establishment occurs near other shrubs where shading reduces moisture loss. This species rapidly colonizes disturbed sites, but stands decline over time. From August to October, it is covered with clusters of small golden yellow flowers that are attractive to butterflies, bees and other insects. The shrub exudes an aromatic scent, especially noticeable after rainfall.

Dwarf blue rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosus var. nauseosus) was recommended as a Plant Select variety in 2011 and is available at native plant nurseries throughout Colorado. Colorado State University PlantTalk 1741 states, ―As our urban landscape stretches towards the plains and into the foothills, the "borrowed view" of the surrounding areas includes native plants that are valuable additions to the home garden.‖ Rabbitbrush is touted as one of the most ornamental and useful native plants for a Colorado garden with its globe shape. In addition to the clusters of golden yellow flowers, it sports fluffy seed clusters through the winter months, which add texture and interest to the garden.

It is recommended to cut the plant back to about one foot in the early spring to help maintain the plant's natural globe shape and to keep the plant dense.

There are many companion plants that marry well in designs with Rabbitbrush. Purple aster and Russian sage are two of the best, as well as summer blooming winecups, California fuchsia, Agastache, and Blond Ambition grama grass. It can also serve as a backdrop for spring and summer blooming perennials and native cactus.

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7th Annual Western Landscape Symposium Save the date! March 16, 2013, 9:00 a.m. - 3:30 p.m.

Pueblo Community College, Fortino Ballroom, 900 W. Orman Ave., Pueblo, CO. Join us for this educational forum to promote the creation of appealing and sustainable landscapes in southeastern Colorado, incorporating water-wise garden practices and plants adapted to local conditions.

David Salman will be the keynote speaker for the 2013 Symposium. David is the Founder & Chief Horticulturist at High Country Gardens. He has spent over 26 years in pursuit of better plants for eco-friendly landscapes. He is a recognized expert in the field of water-wise gardening and xeriscaping.

Tickets on sale beginning January 15, 2013 at CSU Extension-Pueblo County Advance tickets are $18 or 2 for $30, at the door $20.

Garden Tip: Treating Iron Chlorosis While the soil in Colorado contains plenty of iron (hence the name of our state), this important micronutrient is not always available to plants. Iron deficiency shows up as yellowing leaves with green veins. Apply chelated iron products to the soil in late winter, then irrigate deeply so that both water and nutrient will be able to enter the roots as sap starts to rise and new leaves develop. For more information, see CMG GardenNotes #223 at http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/223.pdf.

Thank you for your interest in gardening in Colorado. If you are not currently on our mailing list and would like to subscribe to this quarterly horticulture newsletter, contact Carolyn at 583-6574. From the Ground Up is available in paper and electronic formats.

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HARMONIOUS HARDSCAPES

GOODBYE, LAWN...HELLO, LOW-MAINTENANCE HARDSCAPE

by Edith Brideau, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007 My husband and I moved into a newly built home six years ago. We opted for a lawn because construction had freed up an amazing amount of dirt to blow freely in the strong winds of Pueblo West. It also had destroyed most vegetation, leaving nothing but potential weeds. A lawn seemed like an attractive solution to both problems.

Experienced gardeners urged us to use native grasses to create a drought-tolerant lawn. But growing a lawn from seed or plugs seemed too daunting and we were impatient for ―curb appeal.‖ We opted for the immediate gratification of Kentucky Blue Grass sod.

First, we amended the soil with truckloads of planting soil and 20 large bales of peat moss rototilled into the clay to at least six inches. After installing an irrigation system professionally designed to properly irrigate our lawn, we laid high-quality sod.

In spite of irrigating at appropriate times of day, mowing at the proper height, leaving clippings on the lawn, core-aerating and fertilizing annually, the lawn deteriorated every year. Grubs might have been a contributing factor, and the low water pressure to our irrigation system never provided head-to-head coverage. This fall, we grew tired of fighting a losing battle and just turned off the water.

We engaged a local landscape contractor to remove the lawn and replace it with a landscape of their design. We probably could have done this ourselves, but it would have been exhausting; also, we lacked the vision that the contractors had for a new landscape. We all agreed that certain shrubs and grasses would remain, but the look of a rectangle would be eliminated.

First, they rototilled the lawn and transported it to their own compost pile. Then, they brought in truckloads of planting mix for two raised beds. They The progression of a new landscape, from dying turf to wisely had the planting mix dumped where the beds tilling to delivery and were planned and built granite borders around the placement of rocks and soil to piles. a brand new landscape.

After creating a dry streambed diagonally Photos taken by the author across the entire yard, our contractors transplanted during the remodeling project. several ornamental grasses from their original locations (bordering the old lawn) to more random spots throughout the landscape. They also planted two new pinion pines. Next, they tapped into one of our existing lawn-watering zones and extended new irrigation line/emitters throughout the landscape (easier and more efficient than retrofitting existing sprinkler heads with drip kits). The finishing touch was the placement of decorative rock and boulders.

Hand watering this winter should ensure that the new pinions and transplanted grasses survive until next spring. At that time, the contractors will return to equip our existing backyard landscape with drip irrigation. Then will come the fun part—selecting xeric plants for our new raised beds and—finally, after five years of hand watering...enjoying the convenience and efficiency of drip irrigation throughout our landscape.

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