bu siness the bu z z
Right: His Vespa is his vehicle of choice in Ho Chi Minh City but Nguyen travelled far and wide to shoot his new TV show; Below: char-grilled pork neck with vermicelli
19
My Hometown: Luke Nguyen The Aussie-raised TV chef talks to Connla Stokes about the incredible cuisine in Vietnam
Q
So what is it
doing publicity for my new
based in Australia], the more I
regularly to Vietnam?
about
book, Luke Nguyen’s Greater
can see that children are getting
My family is from Ho Chi Minh
Mekong, I’ve just opened two
bigger because they’re eating
City, and though I was born
food that makes it so
new restaurants: Fat Noodle in
too much fast food. But I saw
in Thailand as a refugee and
appealing?
Brisbane and Red Lantern on
at first hand how MasterChef
raised in Australia, we lived in
Vietnamese food is delicate,
Riley in Sydney.
Junior inspired kids in Australia
Cabramatta in Sydney, which
to say, “You know what? I’m not
is basically Little Saigon.
What do you
going to eat burgers and chips
Not many people could
hope to achieve
anymore. I want to cook with
speak English – that’s how
with your new
ingredients grown in my garden,
authentically Vietnamese it
Vietnamese
light and balanced; it’s really healthy and bloody delicious. Eating street food in Ho Chi Minh City is also pure theatre.
Q
Sadly, you can see street food
show, MasterChef
or purchased from a farmers’
was! So when we opened Red
disappearing from parts of
Vietnam?
market.” That’s what I want to
Lantern, my first restaurant, in
downtown Ho Chi Minh City.
Besides putting Vietnamese
achieve in Vietnam.
2002 we cooked southern-
That’s why one day I want to
cuisine on the global stage, I
open a street-food restaurant
want to motivate Vietnamese
there. For now I have my
people to protect their culinary
plate full. Besides starting
traditions. The more I come
MasterChef Vietnam and
back [Nguyen was raised and is
style food. But I’ve learned a lot
Q
Has your style
about food from elsewhere –
of cooking
central and northern
changed since
Vietnam, and even ethnic
you started returning
minority cuisine.
m a r-a p r t i g e r t a l e s
Cooking up a feast in Kengtung, Myanmar, during the making of Luke Nguyen’s Greater Mekong
So, north
Q
versus south – who wins the
battle for best pho? It’s almost a different dish in the north! As I grew up eating spicy, southern-style pho, I admit when I first ate it in Hanoi, I was thinking: Is that it? Where’s all the flavour? But now I honestly love both versions. And you
Q
explored beyond Vietnam
for Luke Nguyen’s
Greater Mekong. Yes, I went all the way down Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. I did find one common thread: everyone uses their own fermented fish! As you’d expect, every version had great depth and pungency!
20
insider
Ho Chi Minh City Your go-to places for breakfast?
Your top spots for lunch?
Vietnam’s largest city is a foodie’s paradise, but where to start? Luke Nguyen offers his tips for dining (and imbibing) around town
Places to go for entertainment?
Your favourite spots for dinner and drinks?
I usually head down Le Loi and
Around midday, if it starts
In the afternoon, I often go to
For a glass of wine and great
have a big bowl of delicious bun
to get really hot and I’ve had
this cool foot-massage place on
food, check out Xu (71-75
rieu (rice noodles with crab,
street food for breakfast, I
Ton That Thiep (Professional
Hai Ba Trung, District 1, tel:
tofu, blood jelly and tomatoes). I
often go to Wrap and Roll (62
Foot Massage, 44 Ton That
+84 (0)8 3824 8468, www.
don’t know the address because
Hai Ba Trung, District 1, tel:
Thiep, District 1), and later on
xusaigon.com). For something
it’s just on the street under
+84 (0)8 3822 2166) for fresh,
I like to grab a coconut juice
traditional, go to Cuc Gach
an umbrella! Right next door
delicious rolls. But if I’m still
and watch as Ben Thanh Night
Quan (10 Dang Tat, Tan Dinh,
there’s a huge Highlands Coffee,
hungry for street food, I’ll eat
Market is set up. It’s a huge
District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3848
and right in front of that there’s
bun thit nuong (rice noodles
“stage production”, but they do
0144). For a nightcap, try Shri
another lady making coffee on
with grilled pork) by Yersin
it in 30 minutes. I have no idea
on the roof of Centec Tower
the street, which is where I go for
Market (104 Yersin, District 1),
how! After the gas cookers and
(72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
my ca phe sua da (coffee with
where one lady has made the
the produce come out, the night
District 3, tel: +84 (0)8 3827
condensed milk on ice).
same dish for 35 years.
begins…
9631, www.shri.vn).
t i g e r t a l e s m a r-a p r