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The UK's No.1 sewing mag

He l l o


Fresh & fun projects to brighten up your day!


Gertie exclusive ! Her exciting new venture revealed!



8-18 Petal power

Clever quilted



MASTERCLASS Perfect twin-needle stitching with Tilly ISSUE 51 UK £6.99

Inspire Imagine Create




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See Kathy's review on page 23!

Meet the


‌ to issue 51 of Love Sewing


ello sunshine! We've been missing you. Love Sewing has always counted it as a personal mission to provide readers with a healthy dose of colour and joy in every issue, and this edition is no different. We've rounded up the best projects, prizes and inspiration to pep up your day.

Simon ART EDITOR Simon is passionate about design and has a keen eye for detail. He's creative in his spare time too and we love his range of bright and cheeky enamel pins. See more at www.instagram.com/ simonsayspins

Try the Pantone Colour of the Year with our pick of Girl Charlee's gorgeous Ultra Violet hues on page 9 and use the cheeky 20% site-wide discount at the same time. Head to page 10 to read more about the fabulous world of retro sewing expert Gretchen 'Gertie' Hirsch and learn how to add a bold modern twist to vintage styles. Then let Tilly Walnes (from Tilly and the Buttons) share her jersey sewing skills with you on page 28 and enjoy her trademark bright and fun style of teaching.

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This month I was delighted to have Kathy from www. sewdainty.co.uk in the studio as our guest reviewer. She made a gorgeous floral version of the Gertie tea dress that comes with this issue and had a ball of a time having her photo taken. Her infectious enthusiasm made it a wonderful photoshoot.


Find her review, including suggested pattern alterations, on page 23. We also chatted at length about the appeal of this strange solitary hobby where you hide in a room sewing alone but still stay connected to the wider community through magazines, meet-ups and social media. If you're keen to connect with fellow readers, you could sign up to our Facebook group! Just visit www.facebook.com/lovesewingmag then click on the Groups menu option and you'll be able to join in the fun with like-minded sewing enthusiasts, and share photos, tips and encouragement. I look forward to seeing you there!

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks, available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She's excited to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk

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Find us online

B6380 F


DRESS: Close-fitting through the bust dress and back shaped midriff, has front ROBE: gathers at bodice, Robe moulante sur back zipper. short sleeves, and la poitrine, à corselet devant et dos en forme, corsage froncé, manches meture à glissière dos. courtes et ferCombinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14 ), E5(14-16-18-20FABRICS: Challis, 22) Crepe, Crepe de Chine, Séries: A5(6-8-10-12-14 Lawn. Lining: Lining Fabrics. ), E5(14-16-18-2022) TISSUS: Etamine, Crêpe, Crêpe de Chine, Unsuitable for obvious Tissus de doublure. diagonals. Linon. Doublure: *With Nap. **Without Nap. Grandes diagonales SIZES ne conviennent pas. 6 8 *Avec Sens. **Sans 10 12 14 16 Sens. DRESS 18 20 22 TAILLES 6 8 45"*/** 10 12 14 16 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ ROBE 18 20 22 2∫ 2∫ 2π — 60"*/** — 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 115cm*/** 1π 1π 2∂ 2∂ 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.20 LINING 2≤ 2.40 2.40 2.70 — 150cm*/** — 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 45" 2 2 1.80 2.00 2.00 2.10 DOUBLURE 2 2 2 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ NOTIONS: One 22" Zipper. 115cm 1.90 1.90 FINISHED GARMENT MERCERIE: 1 Fermeture 1.90 1.90 1.90 2.20 2.20 2.30 2.30 MEASUREMENTS Width, lower edge à glissière de 55cm. MESURES DU VÊTEMENT Dress FINI 76≥ 77≥ 78≥ 80≤ Largeur à l’ourlet 82≤ 84≤ 86≤ 88≤ Back length from 90≤ base of neck Robe 195 197 Dress 39∞ 39≥ 40 40≤ Longueur - dos, votre 200 204 209 214 219 224 229 40∞ 40≥ 41 41≤ nuque à l’ourlet 41∞ Robe 100 101 102 102 103 103 104 105 105



80 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 87 Fabric focus – Lisa Comfort’s new fabric line 88 Behind the seams with Wendy Ward 91 Readers’ makes 92 15 mins with Emma Fozard 94 READER OFFER 96 Coming next issue Receive Tilly’s NEW book when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 26 for further info

19 Your free Butterick pattern gift – Gertie’s vintage tea dress 30 Plant yourself down floor cushion 37 Make a getaway denim bag 44 Sweet as a daisy Butterick sun hat 48 That’s a wrap circle skirt 63 Brake the cycle quilted jacket 68 To have & to hold slogan pouch 72 Hold your horses embroidery 83 Shift your thinking tunic dress 98 Feeling fruity strawberry brooch •



Butterick B6380



6 30∞ 23 32∞ 77 58 83

112 94 117

107 87 112

102 81 107

22 44 37 46

97 76 102

20 42 34 44

92 71 97

18 40 32 42

87 67 92

16 38 30 40

83 64 88

14 36 28 38

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12 34 26∞ 36

10 32∞ 25 34∞

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Poitrine Taille Hanches

Welcome Love Sewing Loves Fabric focus – Save 20% on fabric at Girl Charlee 15 mins with Gretchen Hirsch Shop of the month Fabric focus – In bloom Jade Earley the girl with the bright red hair In the good books Reader review: free pattern gift Jersey sewing masterclass with Tilly Walnes SUBSCRIBE TODAY The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake Machine review Pattern picks – WIN 12 patterns! A Brief History of William Whiteley & Sons This month I’m making Sewing workshops Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS Fabric focus – British invasion Swatch Selector with Kerry Green PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS Support your local sewing shop 5 spring decorations to try

Gertie vintage tea dress


76 78 74 60 66 70 58 47 52 55 33 34 41 26 28 18 23 24 10 12 14 16 3 6 9


Inside this ISSUE





Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton, Chantelle Salkeld Art Editor Simon Kay Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Ward, Jade Earley, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green


Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz eCommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson



Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961


Subscription Enquiries

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk


Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

Jersey sewing masterclass with Tilly

Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc

30 Practical Publishing International Ltd is a member of the PPA

CONTRIBUTORS Gretchen Hirsch

Fiona Pullen

Tula Pink

Kathy Percherd

Meet Gretchen, creator of Butterick’s popular By Gertie collection, and more recently her very own retro-inspired Charm Patterns. Discover more about Gretchen at www. blog.bygertie.com and hear all about her exciting plans for the year on page 10.

Tula is an icon of the fabric and quilting world. She has designed over 20 fabric collections, as well as needlepoint kits, her own line of sewing tools and is the author of five books! Try her horse embroidery project on page 72 and find out more about her world at www.tulapink.com

Is one half of the creative duo behind The Sewing Directory, the ultimate online resource for locating local sewing suppliers, learning about upcoming workshops and trying out fun free projects. Fiona shares her terrific triangle bag on page 37. Find more fun tutorials at www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk

Our visiting reader this month is Kathy of blog Sew Dainty. We loved her version of our Gertie pattern gift on page 23 and think her clever alteration tips will be a big help to readers. See more of Kathy’s modern, colourful and fun garments at www.sewdainty.com

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The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month


fashion The Gathered Dress is full of surprises. In a loose-fitting, comfortable style it maintains a chic, modern aesthetic, making it a top choice for chilling out at the weekend and also wearing to the office. The front has a straight style, while the reverse uses clever gathers to give the dress a lovely silhouette to flatter all figures. It includes an invisible zip, two different sleeve lengths and a shoulder dart for added shaping. The Gathered Dress is designed with intermediate sewists in mind, but it’s well suited to adventurous beginners looking to sew an everyday dress with a difference. Sizes: 6-22 Price: £16 from www. theavidseamstress.co.uk

Sharpen up We dive into the world of Sheffield scissor manufacturer William Whiteley & Sons over on page 41, and if you’d like to learn more about the history of these indispensable tools, don’t forget to check out a new exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum. Invaluable in every culture, The Secret Life of Scissors display celebrates the past and present of this symbolic and useful tool. It explores the uses of scissors and how this often overlooked object has influenced everything from fairy tales to crime, punk and fashion. When: 9th February – 6th May 2018 Where: Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3XF Price: £9.90 adults, £8.80 concessions, admission included in T-shirt: Cult – Culture – Subversion exhibition

ALL EARS The Love Sewing team has gone a bit Easter mad this issue, and we couldn’t help but highlight this fab felt bunny kit from Corinne Lapierre. Designed and made in Yorkshire, each gorgeous kit contains templates, instructions, wool mix felt, embroidery floss, a needle, toy filling and ribbon, so you can make a set of three adorable bunny rabbits. Of course, they make lovely Easter decorations, but they would also look right at home in any bunny lover’s house. Price: £14.40 at www.notonthehighstreet.com

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Stitchers gonna


Win a Fabrikit! Turn to page 60

We love a quick make, and these pretty new bag kits make perfect evening projects! The three new Fabrikits have been added to the growing Threaders range and include everything you need to make either a zip pouch, tablet case or roll-up organiser. Pattern pieces are all printed onto the floral fabric so all you have to do is cut, stitch then sit back and admire your sewing! Ideal for beginners or those who want to create fast and fabulous gifts. Price: From £11.99 at www.crafterscompanion.co.uk


With lighter nights and the promise of warmer weather on the horizon, this is the time of year where many of us start thinking about renovating our homes. If you’re considering spring decorating, make sure to visit the latest branch of fabric superstore Remnant Kings. The fifth shop and second in Glasgow focuses primarily on home décor, including all you need to make your own curtains and cover soft furnishings. It features designer fabric such as Orla Kiely and Anthology collections and offers design consultancy and fitting services too, so you can concentrate on picking out beautiful new fabric to transform your home. Visit: www.remnantkings.co.uk for more information Where: 150 Howard Street, Glasgow, G1 4HW

The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Bethany Deputy Editor


How pretty are these brand-new pastel embroidery hoops from DMC? The Daisy Flower collection has four different colours with floral motifs around the edge – just what I need for spring stitching and flowery designs! They're available in oval and round shapes, from £7.99 each at www.dmc.com


Searching for an eye-catching Easter decoration? Take a peek at this succulent and cactus wreath from Stitch Line. It’s an instant download so you can get started right away! On sale now for £4.40 at www. stitchline.etsy.com


Maybe it’s because of all the daffodils around, but spring makes me think of yellow. If you fancy stitching daffodils or cute little Easter chicks, try this beautiful spun Alger silk thread from Au Ver à Soie Paris. In six bold shades, the high-quality silk is smooth to stitch with and won’t tangle, making it great for satin stitching. It's available for $27 (approximately £19.33) from www.sublimestitching.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7

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Spring fling

Soft pinks, sunshine yellows and calming greys unite in Riley Blake’s delicate new watercolour prints. Let the sun in and use these bold cottons to make a sundress or spruce up your living room with a set of pretty patchwork cushions. The Petal Lane range could be just what you need to cheer up your wardrobe and home. Shop: For your nearest stockist, go to www.eqsuk.com/stockists

FRILL SEEKERS Frills and flounces aren’t just for adult sleeves. This year, kids patterns are embracing the trend too! The McCall’s 7708 girls’/ teens tops are designed for cotton and chambray fabric and contain four different tops perfect for warmer spring weather. This includes four variations with different sleeve styles and a combination of cropped and full-length tops. The patterns are designed for advanced beginners and are part of McCall’s Learn to Sew range, meaning they’re easy to follow and quick to sew. Size: 2-12 years Price: £9.25 from www.sewdirect.com

STAND SEW TALL Separates are perfect when the weather can’t make its mind up, and the latest trouser pattern from US pattern company True Bias has us excited to get sewing a pair of stylish new trousers! With a high waist and button fly, the Lander pant and short patterns flatters all shapes and sizes. It has front and back patch pockets, belt loops and a straight fit through the legs, making it ideal for heels and flats. Try a medium to heavyweight fabric with little to no stretch, like denim, linen or corduroy and light to medium-weight woven fabric for the pocket linings. Once you’ve mastered the trousers, the shorts will be a sure-fire holiday hit! Size: 2-20 Price: £18 from www.backstitch.co.uk


Looking to put your patchwork and quilting skills to good work? The Alice Caroline team is returning for a third year with its hugely successful Quilt SOS charity project, and it needs your help! The scheme aims to deliver quilts to children around the world who have lost their families and are living in SOS Children’s Villages. This year, the project is hoping to make 66 quilts for the kids of Krasnik, Poland. Alice Garrett, owner of Alice Caroline, Liberty fabric specialists, is calling on quilters and fellow Liberty lovers to use their sewing skills for this fantastic cause. You can choose to purchase an SOS quilt pack from the site and receive a £30 coupon, or alternatively, you can quilt with your own Liberty fabric from your stash. The deadline is not until September, but if you send in your quilt by July it could be displayed at this year’s Festival of Quilts! When: Submissions deadline, 21st September; Festival of Quilts deadline, 6th July Price: Purchase an SOS quilt pack for £67.60 from www. alicecaroline.co.uk/quilt-sos to get involved and receive a £30 coupon to use on the website

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FABRIC Embroidered PUtops, jacket Simplicity 1716 sizes 4-12 / 12-20, ÂŁ8.95 ÂŁ60 www.simplicitynewlook.com www.jdwilliams.co.uk



Zip up, Ultra



Brighten your wardrobe with the Pantone Colour of the Year! Dabble in all things purple, violet and lilac Personalise this spring-summer with ourjacket selection of Girl Charlee's biker with our pick of gorgeous or use sturdy yetrange, stylish fabric the 20% discount on the whole site!





at Girl Charlee UK with the code LOVESEW. Go to www.girlcharlee.co.uk to take advantage of this great discount!*

Fabric shopping shopping Fabric Copper Acai purple chevron on ÂŁ15 white cotton blend knit, ÂŁ9.95  Magenta stripe tri-blend cotton jersey knit, skin, ÂŁ8.95ÂŁ17   Cognac Eco leatherette, per metrejersey www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk 0.55mm-thick leather  per  Blue5ft pink galaxy and stars cotton jersey blend knit, ÂŁ9.95 Modern refl ection orchid dots cotton spandex knit, ÂŁ17.95 square www.pittards.com  Burgundy leatherette, ÂŁ6 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk  Mama   Horse play on lilac modal cotton jersey blend knit, ÂŁ9.95 Magenta small stripe tri-blend cotton jersey knit, ÂŁ8.95 pink 0.7mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 per 5ft square www.pittards.com  Spot print mid-blue denim, ÂŁ8.99 per metre www. All pink fabric is available at www.girlcharlee.co.uk abakhan.co.uk  Shell soft faux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk *Offer ends 26th April 2018

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Vintage style, YOUR WAY

We caught up with Gretchen Hirsch to discover all about her life as a pattern designer with a penchant for vintage fashion Are there any alterations you can suggest for anyone looking to push their skills even further? I’ve seen this paired with a full circle skirt (instead of the included slimmer A-line skirt) and it was absolutely stunning! It gives it more of a Dior look, rather than a World War II vibe, and it’s a fabulous silhouette when paired with this bodice.


t’s time to meet the designer behind your stunning Butterick By Gertie 6380 dress pattern, the super talented and oh-so glamorous Gretchen Hirsch. Hi Gretchen, how are you? What’s currently on your sewing table? I’m wonderful, thank you! I’m doing some last-minute sewing for a Butterick photoshoot in two days, yikes! We’re shooting my autumn 2018 pattern design. It’s a beautiful 50s-inspired day dress in jade green. We’re so excited to be offering your Butterick 6380 dress as our free gift this issue! What was your inspiration for the dress? I wanted to delve into some inspiration from the 1940s, instead of my usual 1950s obsession. I love the beautiful draped necklines of that era; they’re so flattering.

What’s been your favourite pattern you’ve designed so far and why is this? Oh that’s a tough one! I’m very proud of my Charm Patterns Lamour Dress, because it’s based on an authentic Hawaiian convertible halter dress design from the 50s, it has separate cup sizes up to a DD, and the instructions go over some of my favorite high-end techniques like underlining and using spiral steel boning. Do you find it helps to teach workshops where you can use your own patterns? Definitely! I know my own patterns so well, that it helps with fitting and construction to use them in my workshops. I designed my next Charm Pattern specifically for use in workshops, since teaching is so important to me. What is it you enjoy most about sharing your skills? I love seeing how excited my students get when something fits them perfectly! It’s also very satisfying seeing them learn new skills like making pattern adjustments for their body.


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I love seeing how excited my students get when something fits them perfectly!


Gretchen Hirsch Gretchen is based in the US, where she designs dressmaking patterns and fabric and teaches regular sewing classes. She has been sharing her love of vintage frocks on her blog for over 10 years and has gone on to design a host of beautiful patterns for Butterick’s popular By Gertie collection, and more recently her very own retro-inspired Charm Patterns. Discover more about Gretchen at www.blog. bygertie.com and see the latest Charm Patterns at www. charmpatterns.bygertie.com

Lamour dress

Recently you launched Charm Patterns by Gertie with two fabulous designs, the Rita blouse and Lamour dress. Do you have any plans for more designs that you could share with us? Yes! I have a new design coming out in the next couple of months; it’s very ambitious and gives tonnes of options for both design and finishing. I hope to release five new Charm Patterns this year, and I have some very exciting garments in the works, from beachwear to outerwear.

Gretchen’s B6380 dress pattern, which is free with this issue!

What’s your favourite part of your job and why? I like that every day is different! Since I do so many different things (designing for Butterick, Charm Patterns, fabric design, and teaching and travelling), it’s never boring. Vintage style is such a large part of your aesthetic, if you could have anyone’s wardrobe throughout history whose would it be and why? Probably Marilyn Monroe! I constantly re-watch Gentlemen Prefer Blondes and How to Marry a Millionaire for the costumes.

Rita blouse


Finally, are you working on anything exciting over the next few months? Yes! I’m launching my own online learning platform called Charm School, with a comprehensive Lamour Dress class. I’m also releasing two new lines of fabric designs, and working on several new Charm Patterns.

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NIMBLE THIMBLES Swindon, Wiltshire

Nimble Thimbles is a veritable treasure trove of crafting goodies. We spoke to owner Vikki to find out more about the shop and what’s on the horizon for the year ahead Hi Vikki! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today? Hi! I have just had a delivery of dressmaking fabric including some beautiful printed jersey that would be great for dressmaking projects. Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop I started Nimble Thimbles in 2013 initially as an eBay shop, then after only a few months, as demand grew, I opened a small shop. After a year, I moved to larger premises which allowed me to incorporate the sewing school. I have recently moved again to even larger premises but more about that below. I now have my eBay shop, a bricks-andmortar shop in Swindon and an online shop at www.nimblethimbles.co.uk


Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist? I would recommend the Janome CXL301 for beginners. Even though it’s a computerised sewing machine it is fantastic for new sewists. It features a ‘tortoise and hare’ speed controller and it can be used with or without the foot pedal. I have these in my sewing school for the students to use and they are great workhorses that are easy to teach on. What sets you apart from other shops? You can be assured of a friendly welcome and good practical advice on your sewing projects. The shop has a light and spacious feel with a huge choice of fabric, haberdashery and yarn. Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about? The most exciting news I have is that I moved to a larger shop a couple of weeks ago. I had an official open day in February and it was a fabulous event. The sewing school was open for everyone to walk around and get involved in a few projects. The shop is now bigger than before and the sewing school has expanded to accommodate more students. I am also expecting a delivery of the second collection of Liberty printed cotton very soon, which I am really looking forward to as this fabric makes beautiful dressmaking and quilting projects.

Visit us!

NIMBLE THIMBLES 21 Bridgemead Close Westmaed Ind Est Swindon SN5 7YT Phone: 01793 950750 Mobile: 07799 605045 www.nimblethimbles.co.uk

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Everyone deserves a Introducing the new Singer Fashion Mate machines The Singer 3333, 3337 and 3342 Fashion Mate include: ✽ Up to 32 Built-In Stitches ✽ 1-Step & 4-Step Buttonholes ✽ Built-in needle threader ✽ Top drop-in bobbin ✽ STAYBRIGHT™ LED Light ✽ Adjustable Stitch Length ✽ Heavy Duty Metal Frame ✽ Free arm ✽ On-board storage ✽ A range of free accessories



Machine pictured is the SINGER® FASHION MATE™ 3337.

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Step into spring with our selection of gorgeous fabric, guaranteed to brighten your home, or wardrobe!

Fabric shopping  Arroyo Dots Mist, ÂŁ19.80 per metre www.fabrichq.co.uk  Terrazzo shell fabric, â‚Ź18 (approximately ÂŁ15.98) per metre www.atelierbrunette.com  Embossed Nature with Gold Foil, ÂŁ9.95 per metre www.stoffstil.co.uk  Art Gallery Lagom Attached contrast cotton print, ÂŁ13 per metre www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk  Teal Marabou Mosaic cotton lawn, ÂŁ15 per metre www.fabricgodmother.co.uk  Green Botanic-print stretch jersey, ÂŁ14.50 per metre www.stoffstil.co.uk  Mint floral printed viscose, ÂŁ4.99 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk  Celestial Blush lawn, ÂŁ20 per metre www.misformake.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 15

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Jade Earley was a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee 2016 where she shared her love for sewing with the world. Follow her adventures online at www. thegirlwiththebrightredhair.co.uk

r i a h Red


ow what a month! So much has happened that I can't begin to tell you everything. Throughout it all there has been one thing on my mind and that is scuba fabric. As you all know scuba is my favourite textile to work with and is the one I use on a daily basis. So, I am going to tell you exactly why it is my favourite fabric of all time and share some top tips! Scuba fabric is a type of double knit made from polyester and Spandex, with a very fine gauge thread and smooth texture. It’s a little springy, very smooth and has a nice drape to it. It’s my favourite fabric to work with because it’s so stable but with a slight

Polynesian Paradise scuba is just £7 per metre from my fave shop www.fabworks.co.uk

This issue Jade is chatting about her favourite fabric – scuba – and all the reasons she loves it stretch to it. This can scare some people off but I love it. If I am making a jumpsuit or a dress that I want to hug my figure it is the perfect fabric for doing just that, while giving me the movement I need! Because of the stability of the fabric it hugs your body in the right way, smoothing your figure and creating a flattering shape. Another reason I love scuba is that it’s just so easy to work with. It won’t shift about as you cut and pin your pieces and you can use the overlocker to construct your whole garment. Sometimes you don’t even need to use pins because the fabric layers almost grip onto each other! Because of the stretch in the fabric you need to make sure that your seams are going to stretch with your fabric so using an overlocker or a stretch stitch is essential. Trying to use a straight stitched seam will lead to your seams popping and ripping (what a nightmare!) so choose a zigzag or lightning bolt stitch if you don’t have an overlocker. I’d definitely recommend investing in an overlocker; it makes sewing stretch garments easier and quicker. For example, one night I made a scuba jumpsuit an hour before I went out – I put my pedal to the floor and my

I used Simplicity Project Runway 1158 for my floral scuba jumpsuit

trusty overlocker whizzed through the project! I'm sure you've realised by now that scuba is my favourite! Hopefully I’ve persuaded you to give it a try for yourself if you haven't already. You can make beautiful, flattering garments with this fabric once you get used to it.

! g n i w e s y p p a H

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Weave This by Francesca Kletz and Brooke Dennis. Photography by Rita Platts £14.99, Hardie Grant Hi Francesca and Brooke! Tell us, what inspired the book? Hello! We love craft books and we have loads, but despite owning a couple of tapestry weaving books, we just felt that there wasn’t a book out there that really shows you how to create the kind of wall hangings and woven projects that we or our customers wanted to make. We run a weaving studio six days a week and always get the same questions about how to do certain techniques and so we thought we’d write a book about it! What is it that you love most about weaving? Weaving is an amazingly therapeutic craft. Our tagline for our studio is “satisfying – healing – fun, like chicken soup but with yarn” and that pretty much sums it up for us. Weaving allows you to be

IMPROV EMBROIDERY Put your creative skills to work with this beautiful new guide from Laura Wasilowski. Joyful Stitching shows how to transform fabric with improvisational embroidery and is available for £16.99 from www.ctpub.com


BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books Francesrcaooke &B

really experimental with colour and fibre – you can use every fibre, colour and texture in one tapestry, you just don’t get to do that with most other crafts, especially not as a beginner. We’ve spoken to occupational therapists about the good that handicrafts – specifically hand weaving – can do for your wellbeing; it’s so good for you and it’s so important for us to recognise that crafts can be a genuine form of therapy and escape.

What’s your favourite project from the book? Our favourites are the woven backpack and our giant tapestries. They were the most fun to figure out – the backpack mostly because it’s just a really cool project that looks great and is genuinely really functional. The giant tapestries because, well, they’re giant and one of them is made using a fabric dying method with ice and powdered dye which was so much fun to do and it looked super intergalactic when it was all melding together.

SCANDI CHIC Love Sewing designer and super sewist Debbie von GrablerCrozier shows you how to inject a little Scandinavian style into your sewing in Lagom-Style Accessories. Pick up your copy from www.searchpress.com for £7.99.

How do you recommend introducing weaving into our wardrobes? You can weave on anything really, you just need a good structured fabric that you can stick a needle through easily – plastic, denim, linen, leather and hardy cotton all work well. We’ve even woven on canvas plimsolls for summer. What can we look forward to from you over the next few months? We run a textiles and weaving studio in East London called The London Loom where we’ll be hosting all sorts of fun events and workshops. If you love yarn or textiles you’ll just want to live in our 400-strong wall of rainbow yarn!

NINE OF A KIND Nine-patch Revolution includes 20 modern quilting projects featuring the classic ninepatch block in a host of exciting new ways. Jennifer Dick and Angela Walters’s latest title is out on 31st March, priced £21.99 from www.ctpub.com

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19 butterick dress v3.indd 19

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Birds on Coral viscose challis, www.tilthesungoesdown.com Find similar vinatge-style fabric on the website B6380 F


Séries: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) TISSUS: Etamine, Crêpe, Crêpe de Chine, Linon. Doublure: Tissus de doublure. Grandes diagonales ne conviennent pas. *Avec Sens. **Sans Sens. TAILLES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 ROBE 115cm*/** 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.20 2.40 2.40 2.70 — — 150cm*/** 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 2.00 2.00 2.10 DOUBLURE 115cm 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 2.20 2.20 2.30 2.30 MERCERIE: 1 Fermeture à glissière de 55cm. MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI Largeur à l’ourlet Robe 195 197 200 204 209 214 219 224 229 Longueur - dos, votre nuque à l’ourlet Robe 100 101 102 102 103 103 104 105 105

Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) FABRICS: Challis, Crepe, Crepe de Chine, Lawn. Lining: Lining Fabrics. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. *With Nap. **Without Nap. SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 DRESS 45"*/** 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 2∫ 2∫ 2π — — 60"*/** 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π 2∂ 2∂ 2≤ LINING 45" 2 2 2 2 2 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ NOTIONS: One 22" Zipper. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Width, lower edge Dress 76≥ 77≥ 78≥ 80≤ 82≤ 84≤ 86≤ 88≤ 90≤ Back length from base of neck Dress 39∞ 39≥ 40 40≤ 40∞ 40≥ 41 41≤ 41∞

ROBE: Robe moulante sur la poitrine, à corselet devant et dos en forme, corsage froncé, manches courtes et fermeture à glissière dos.

DRESS: Close-fitting through the bust dress has front and back shaped midriff, gathers at bodice, short sleeves, and back zipper.

We used:


A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 ) SIZE/ TAILLE

Butterick B6380


77 58 83

Poitrine Taille Hanches

6 30∞ 23 32∞



8 31∞ 24 33∞ 80 61 85

10 32∞ 25 34∞ 83 64 88

92 71 97

87 67 92

14 36 28 38

12 34 26∞ 36

16 38 30 40 97 76 102

18 40 32 42 102 81 107

20 42 34 44 107 87 112

22 44 37 46 112 94 117


We love this beautiful tea dress pattern from Gretchen Hirsch. Don’t forget McCall’s patterns come with foolproof step-by-step guides to make sewing a breeze

TEA Time for GIFT

Your free

Subscribe today to get a


VIEW C Solid colours allow the design lines of this dress to shine!

We used:

Sea Grass Luxury crepe, £14 per metre www.sewoverit.co.uk

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Amy says...


LAP IT UP! A lapped zip is a polished finish that disguises the closure on a dress, skirt or trousers. It’s easy to install and would look fantastic on your free pattern gift

 You’ll need a regular zip for this tutorial and co-ordinating thread for top-stitching. It’s also best to finish the raw centre back edges before you install the zip with a zigzag stitch or on an overlocker.  Mark the exact length of placket opening on the centre back seam allowance, using the zip as a guide. Sew seam up to the base of the zip. Change to a longer stitch length and baste the rest of the seam allowance close. Press open.  Extend the right-hand side of the seam allowance and place the zip on top face down. The top stoppers should sit below the seam line at the neckline.  Using a zipper foot positioned to right of the needle, machine-tack on the stitching guideline woven into the zipper tape. If you can’t see the guideline, just stitch at half the width of the tape (see below).

Remember the finished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue! This helps you pick the perfect size

alongside the zip. Use the side of your zipper foot to feel the edge of the zip through the layers of fabric.

 Turn the garment RS out and flatten out the zip behind the fabric. Hand-baste in place quickly, ensuring the waist seam allowance is secured.  Position your zipper foot to the right of the needle and top-stitch the zip, starting at the base. Pivot the corner, then sew

I spy!


 You will now be able fold the facings and top of the zip to the inside. Arrange it so the zip ends are hidden behind the facing seam allowance and slip-stitch the facing to the zipper tape. Unpick your basting.

We love this hidden zip finish

 Position the zipper foot to the left of the needle. Turn the zipper face up, forming a fold in the seam allowance that sits close (but not too close) to the teeth. There should be 1-2mm gap between the teeth and fabric. Stitch close to the folded edge through all thicknesses. Do not attach the end of the zipper to the neckline facing.

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Mix and match tonal ďƒ&#x;orals, plains and stripes for a fresh new look. Perfect pieces for your spring and summer wardrobe. B6568, Misses’ 6-22. Available from fabric stores and websites countrywide. Or visit www.sewdirect.com

L i fe st yl e Wa rdrob e LS51.P22.indd 22 Butterick Spring.indd 1

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06/03/2018 14:32


have neckTOPS: Semi-fitted, pullover tops and narrow hem. band, seam detail, hemline variations, grain. A, B: Bias A: Lower sections cut on crosswise on hemline. C: armhole facing, wrong side shows D: Front overlay, Darted pockets and stitched hems. and purchased trim. elasticized lower edge of sleeves,

E5(14-16-18-20-22) Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Chine. Cotton Blends, Linen, Crepe de SUGGESTED FABRICS: Chambray, Contrast D: Lace, Eyelet.

1∞ 1≤

1∑ 1≤

18 2 1≥ 2 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤

16 2 1∫ 2 1≥ 2 1≥ 1∫ 1∂

20 2∑ 1≥ 2∑ 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤ 1∫ 1≤

22 2∑ 1≥ 2∑ 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤ 1∫ 1≤

Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " " "

par la tête, à HAUTS: Hauts semi-ajustés, à passer variations de linge d’ourlet et ourlet bande d’encolure, coutures apparentes, sur le fil de trame. A, B: Parementure étroit. A: Parties inférieures coupées pinces sur la ligne d’ourlet. C: Poches à d’entournure en biais, l’envers visible devant, bord inférieur des manches et ourlets piqués. D: Pièce superposée élastique et galon acheté. por Tops semientallados, para ponerse TOPS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: de línea de costuras expuestas, variaciones la cabeza, con banda de escote, el hilo Secciones superiores cortadas sobre dobladillo y dobladillo angosto. A: dobladillo. sesgo, revés visible en la línea de de la trama. A, B: Vista de sisa al en el angostos. D: Pieza sobrepuesta C: Bolsillos con pinzas y dobladillos con elástico y ribete comprado. frente, borde inferior de mangas E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries/Combinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Chine. Cotonnade, Toile de lin, Crêpe de TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Chambray, anglaise. Contraste D: Dentelle, Broderie de China. Mezclas de algodón, Lino, Crepé TELAS SUGERIDAS: Chambray, Contraste D: Encaje, Broderie. 22 20 18 16 10 12 14 8 TAILLES/TALLAS 6 1.90 2.20 2.20 m 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 A 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 m 1.60 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 150cm*** 1.90 2.20 2.20 m 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 1.90 B 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 m 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.60 150cm*** 2.10 2.10 2.10 m 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 1.90 C 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 m 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.60 1.60 150cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 m 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 D 115cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 m 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 150cm*** CONTRASTE 1D 1.40 1.50 1.50 m 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.30 115cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 m 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 150cm*** - 0.80m CONTRASTE 2D - 115, 150cm*** TERMOADHESIVA A, B, C, D TRETELA ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/EN

≤" Elastic.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline 41 39 A, B, C, D 35∞ 36∞ 37∞ Measurement at hipline 43 37∞ 38∞ 39∞ 41 A, C Width, lower edge 41∞ 43∞ 40 39 38 A, C 64∞ 66∞ 63 62 61 B, D Back length from base of neck 27≤ 27∞ 27≥ 28 27 A, B 25≤ 25∞ 25≥ 26 25 C 26≤ 26∞ 25∞ 25≥ 26 D




" " "

28≤ 28∞ 28≥ 29 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ 27 27≤ 27∞ 26≥ 27

" "

45∞ 47∞ 49∞ 51∞ 68∞ 70∞ 72∞ 74∞








46, 51cm - 0.50m 6mm. de 2.5cm, 0.50m de Élastique de MERCERIE: D: 1.40m de Galon 6mm. de 2.5cm, 0.50m de Elástico de MERCERÍA: D: 1.40m de Ribete DE LA PRENDA ACABADA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS de busto Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno 120 125 cm 93 95 99 104 109 115 90 A, B, C, D de caderas Mesure aux hanches/Contorno 125 130 cm 98 100 104 109 115 120 95 A, C Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho inferior 126 131 cm 99 102 105 110 116 121 97 A, C 179 184 190 cm 155 157 160 164 169 174 B, D la nuca l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde Longueur - dos, votre nuque à cm 74 73 72 72 69 70 71 71 69 A, B cm 69 69 67 67 64 65 66 66 64 C cm 70 69 69 68 66 66 67 67 65 D


14 12 10 8 6 SIZES 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π A 45"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 60"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1π B 45"*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 60"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π 2 C 45"*** 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1≥ 60"*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ D 45"*** 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 60"*** CONTRAST 1D 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 45"*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 60"*** yd. CONTRAST 2D - 45", 60"*** - π D FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, 18", 20" - ∞ yd. ∞ yd. of NOTIONS: D: 1∞ yds. of 1" Trim,

LS51.P23.indd 23

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www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23


or Without Nap *With Nap **Without Nap ***With

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec

Pelillo ***Con o ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin







Sin Pelillo




Marca Registrada Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Copyright© 2016, The McCall Pattern not for commercial or manufacturing interdite. Sold for individual home use only and commerciale ou industrielle strictement Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation

I also decided to alter the fastening from a lapped zip to an invisible zip. This is just personal preference and I thought it might may lie flatter and M7390_ENV



A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )


In issue 52, Sew Now Editor Sam is reviewing M7390

DEL CUERPO BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS12 14 16 10 8 6 SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 36 38 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 Bust 25 26∞ 28 30 23 24 Waist 38 40 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 Hip 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ Back Waist Length 92 97 83 87 77 80 Poitrine/Busto 71 76 64 67 58 61 Taille/Cintura 97 102 88 92 83 85 Hanches/Caderas 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 40 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39.5

18 40 32 42 17

22 20 44 Ins. 42 37 Ins. 34 46 Ins. 44 17≤ 17∞ Ins.

I should also mention that the dress is fully lined, and for this I used lining fabric from my stash. The finished result is a flattering and comfortable tea dress that is very wearable and here just in time for the warmer weather. Fingers crossed for plenty more sunshine! 102 107 112 cm 94 cm 87 81 107 112 117 cm 44.5 cm 44 43



Finally, I raised the neckline. It is cut fairly low and I prefer something a little more modest, so I simply extended the bodice front seam by 3cm and redrew the curve of the neckline, which was really easy to do. I took advantage of this extra space by self-covering three small buttons in scraps of the same fabric and popping them on as a decorative feature. I just love the sweetheart neckline!

B6380 F


à corselet moulante sur la poitrine, et ferhas front ROBE: Robe froncé, manches courtes through the bust dress et dos en forme, corsage DRESS: Close-fitting sleeves, and devant gathers at bodice, short meture à glissière dos. and back shaped midriff, back zipper. 4), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries: A5(6-8-10-12-1 de Chine, Linon. Doublure: 4), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Etamine, Crêpe, Crêpe Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-1 de Chine, Lawn. Lining: Lining TISSUS: Crepe Tissus de doublure. FABRICS: Challis, Crepe, conviennent pas. Grandes diagonales ne Fabrics. diagonals. 20 22 *Avec Sens. **Sans Sens. Unsuitable for obvious 10 12 14 16 18 8 6 TAILLES 20 22 *With Nap. **Without Nap. 10 12 14 16 18 8 6 ROBE 2.40 2.70 — — SIZES 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.20 2.40 115cm*/** 1.80 2.00 2.00 2.10 DRESS 2∫ 2π — — 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 2∫ 150cm*/** 45"*/** 1π 2∂ 2∂ 2≤ DOUBLURE 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 2.20 2.20 2.30 2.30 60"*/** 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 115cm LINING 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ à glissière de 55cm. 2 2 2 2 MERCERIE: 1 Fermeture 2 45" FINI MESURES DU VÊTEMENT NOTIONS: One 22" Zipper. MEASUREMENTS Largeur à l’ourlet 214 219 224 229 FINISHED GARMENT 195 197 200 204 209 Robe Width, lower edge 84≤ 86≤ 88≤ 90≤ nuque à l’ourlet Longueur - dos, votre 76≥ 77≥ 78≥ 80≤ 82≤ 103 104 105 105 Dress 100 101 102 102 103 of neck Robe Back length from base 40≥ 41 41≤ 41∞ 39∞ 39≥ 40 40≤ 40∞ Dress



look neater. Fluid fabric can have a tendency to distort as you sew and I felt an invisible zip would give me greater control.







I really like the puff sleeves as they are a lovely retro feature but discovered that these had a little too much height and volume for me, so I gently softened the shape of the sleeve head, resulting in something much more my style. As the dress has a fitted bodice it was important for me to sew up a toile first, and I was so pleased that I did as I spotted a few alterations that I wanted to make. I found that I needed to cut a size 12 on the bodice, but graded this out to a size 14 at the waist.

My fabric choice is a gorgeous soft and floaty crepe called Xanthe from www.fabricgodmother.co.uk. Whilst I love traditional florals, I feel that the bold print on this crepe gives this design a modern twist. It has a beautiful weight and is crease resistant – perfect for those who don’t like to spend a lot of time ironing! t’s hard to ignore the increasing popularity of vintage styling that we are seeing around us, so I was really keen to try the Butterick 6380 tea dress from the Patterns by Gertie range.

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )





80 61 85

77 58 83

8 31∞ 24 33∞

6 30∞ 23 32∞

10 32∞ 25 34∞

Kathy Perchard of blog www.sewdainty.co.uk shares her version of this issue’s Butterick free gift Poitrine Taille Hanches

83 64 88

12 34 26∞ 36 87 67 92

14 36 28 38 92 71 97

18 40 32 42

16 38 30 40

102 81 107

97 76 102


22 44 37 46

20 42 34 44 107 87 112

112 94 117




view eader Re6380 RButterick

Learn with


To celebrate Tilly Walnes’s new book Stretch: Sewing with Knit Fabrics, we’re sharing her top stitching tips for flawless top-stitching and a fabulous finish STITCH SETTINGS

Test out your stitch settings on a double scrap of fabric before you start sewing your garment. Use a stretch or ballpoint needle, 60/8 for very lightweight fabric, 75/11 for light to medium-weight jersey. Use a narrow zigzag, 2–2.4mm long by 1–1.5mm wide, for most seams. Use an even zigzag – 2 x 2mm or 2.5 x 2.5mm – or a twin needle for topstitching. To help stop the fabric stretching out as you sew, lower the presser foot pressure if your machine lets you.

Twin needle finished stitches


A walking foot or dual-feed foot is also helpful – these attachments ensure both layers of fabric are fed through the machine at the same speed so one doesn’t stretch out and create wobbly seams. Try not to let the fabric dangle off the sewing table while you’re sewing – use an extension table if your machine comes with one, or simply hold the fabric up in front of the sewing machine.


There’s usually no need to finish seam allowances on knit fabric, as it won’t fray.

Twin needle set up

However, you might want to finish them to strengthen or neaten them up. If you don’t have an overlocker (serger), you can finish them with zigzag stitch. Trim the seam allowances to about half their width. I usually use a 2.5mm long x 4.5mm wide zigzag – but test this out on a scrap of fabric first. An overedge foot will make it easier to position the zigzag in the right place, and will stop the raw edge from rolling up. Line up the raw edge of the fabric with the guide on the foot so the right-hand side of the zigzag lands exactly on the edge. If this method squishes up the fabric edges, you can zigzag with a regular presser foot about 5mm (¼”) away from the seam line before trimming the seam allowances.


Try a walking foot

It’s a good idea to test-hem a scrap of the fabric before hemming the top. If the raw edge curls up a lot or if the hem ends up looking wobbly, try applying some stickyback hemming tape, such as Wonder Tape,

to the wrong side of the raw edge before pressing it under. This will help to stabilise the hem as you’re sewing it. The tape will dissolve in the wash later. If you can summon the patience, let your project hang for 24 hours before hemming it. If it stretches out, you can trim it down and level out the hem before stitching. A single folded hem will be much less bulky than a double folded hem.



needle Using a twin needle for topstitching can give your handmade clothes a professionallooking finish that resembles the coverstitching you often see on shop-bought knit clothing. A twin needle has two needles attached to the same shank. It sews two

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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copy of Tilly’s book when you subscribe. See page 26

Three-step zigzag

rows of parallel stitching on the right side, joined by a zigzag on the wrong side that allows the seam to stretch. You’ll need to get a stretch or ballpoint twin needle for knit fabric. The packet will tell you how far apart the two rows of stitching will be – around 4mm is great for hemming, or try a 2mm or 3mm twin needle for attaching a neckband. Check the holes in your needle plate and presser feet are wide enough for the needle so it doesn’t hit them! You’ll also need a second spool pin. Some machines come with a detachable one, others allow two spools on the regular pin, or use the bobbin winder spindle – check your manual. Thread your sewing machine with two spools of thread, one going into each needle. Check your manual for any special instructions for twin needle threading. Set the machine to a slightly longer straight stitch length than normal – 3mm is good – and/or any special twin needle setting. Top-stitch on the right side of the fabric so the straight stitches end up on the outside of your garment. Position the inside needle near the edge of the hem – as you’re sewing with the right side face up, you’ll need to feel through the fabric to check it’s in the right place. Don’t back tack – if the stitches aren’t going to be overlapped by a seam, you can pull the top threads to the wrong side

and tie the three threads in a knot. You should end up with two lines of straight stitches on the right side, and a zigzag joining them on the wrong side. If the zigzag looks narrow or more like a straight line, increase the spool thread tension. If that doesn’t work, a last resort is to loosen the bobbin tension. On most machines this means removing the bobbin case and turning a little screw on the side anticlockwise or to the left. Please be cautious if you do change the bobbin case tension, as it’s not that easy to reset. Make a note of how many times you turned the screw and reset it once you’ve finished topstitching. Even better, invest in a second bobbin case that you can use solely when you need looser bobbin tension. If stitches are skipping, check you’ve threaded up your machine properly and make sure the threads aren’t twisting together. Sometimes it can help to change the direction of one of the thread spools. Check the needle isn’t blunt or bent. If that doesn’t work, play around with the thread tension until it becomes balanced. If you find the fabric is squishing up between the two rows of straight stitching, stabilise the hem or seam allowance first with wash-away adhesive stabiliser (such as Wonder Tape). Or, if the seam doesn’t need to stretch much, use a strip of iron-on knit interfacing. If you’re

Topstitch with a zigzag

struggling with the twin needle, don’t worry! There’s always zigzag topstitching…


Zigzag topstitching is easier than topstitching with a twin needle. I think zigzag topstitching looks neatest when the length and width are even – I use a 2 x 2mm or 2.5 x 2.5mm zigzag for most fabrics, and 3 x 3mm on a thick pile such as stretch velvet or sweatshirt fleece. Before starting, turn the hand wheel a few times to check where either side of the zigzag will land. Then position your project under the needle so the zigzag falls where you want it to. If your machine has a three-step zigzag setting it’s worth a try if you’re sewing a thinner fabric and find it’s bunching up under a regular zigzag. Essentially each ‘zig’ or ‘zag’ is made up of three mini stitches. By not changing direction as much as a regular zigzag it keeps the fabric sitting nice and flat.

Find out more Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch! By Tilly Walnes, £22.50 from Quadrille Tilly’s new book is filled with helpful advice, clear step-by-step guides and features six patterns on full-size templates sheets!

Find the Freya dress inside the book!

Make this tee using our free tutorial at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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TILLY AND THE BUTTONS: STRETCH! NEW for March 2018! WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE This brand-new book offers perfect proof that easy-to-wear clothes can be seriously stylish with a collection of outfits that combine the comfort of stretch fabric with Tilly Walnes’s signature look. The book includes complete, full-size patterns and is aimed at dressmakers who have grasped the basics and want to expand their sewing horizons.

Includes six full-size patterns

Tilly’s tried-and-tested, learn-asyou-make approach is structured around five made-to-measure, speedy-to-sew garments and the friendly instructions and clear step-by-step photographs are accompanied by lots of tips and tricks to make sewing a breeze. The multiple variations and ideas will help you customise the garment to suit your own style.

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Online: www.practicalsubs.com/2941 Call: 01858 438899 (QUOTE CODE: PLSE0318) Hurry, offer expires 19/04/2018

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The Dressmaker's With Elisalex


’m not sure if it’s an age thing, or just that this last Christmas happened to be extra delicious, but winter 2017-18 was not kind to my waistline! While I’m (mostly) OK with this on the deeper level of self-love and not feeling the need to beat myself up for gaining a few kilos (plus I’m really enjoying the renewed motivation to get back on with my regular exercise routine and feel my strength rebuilding), I’m less OK with it on the more materialistic level as it relates to my sewing. I’ve found my sewjo to be at an alltime low since my usual go-to projects – dresses with fitted bodices and defined waists – are holding zero appeal for me right now. The last thing I want to do is make a dress that I know will be uncomfortably snug for the time being, and I certainly don’t feel like going to the hassle of sizing up my existing favourite patterns to make a new dress that risks being too roomy for me come summer.

The crux of the issue is this: when your weight fluctuates, how do you consistently sew garments that will fit and flatter no matter what? Now, I know that part of the beauty of being able to sew your own is that you could just make something new to fit your body post weight gain or loss, but this doesn’t really sit right with me. To me, this actually defeats the point of taking a more mindful,

DIARY Elisalex is mulling over the eternal question of fit and the realities of how to sew for a fluctuating figure!

sustainable and less consumerist approach to sewing. Just as I slightly resent having to buy bras in both my ‘regular’ size and my ‘period’ size, I’d rather not have to sew smaller and larger clothes. And I’d especially like not to have to siphon away dresses lovingly made in leaner times from precious fabric I can’t replace, just because I’ve had a slack few months gym-wise. What I want is a fabulous wardrobe full of handmade delights that always fit and make me feel great, regardless of whether I’m at the higher or lower end of my personal weight spectrum. To be clear, I am not suggesting to start exclusively sewing stuff that is loose and floaty. Of course, trapeze dresses and muumuus are great for disguising a bloated tum every once in a while, but what I’m trying to achieve here is a capsule closet of faux-fitted garments that have the functionality to shrink or give without having to alter any seams. I’ve been giving this a lot of thought recently as I claw my way back from the pit of sewing despair, and I think I’ve nailed it. What it all boils down to is clothes that have adjustable fastenings and closures. Think wraps, waist ties and drawstrings. Clothes whose snugness I can adjust throughout the course of my day (and my life!), that celebrate, complement and work with my sometimes-changing figure, not hide it. I’ve made a little list of some of the patterns I think fit the bill, some of which I have made and are indeed the ones I turn to for this exact purpose. The even better news is that for most of the patterns I’ve recommended below, pattern alteration requirements will

Orsola dress

Nadine shirt www.republiqueduchiffon.com/en

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Astrid trousers www.namedclothing.com

Top tip! Alix dress

BONUS ROUND Kimonos technically do not meet my specific criteria here of being a garment that can still be figure hugging despite yo-yo-ing body measurements, but they’re always a good plan. So shout out to Helen’s Closet Suki Kimono and Papercut Patterns Kochi Kimono because they’re fabulous regardless of whether or not you’re sewing for a fluctuating bod!

Why not try the wrap circle skirt project on page 47?

be minimal compared to other fitted, not size-adjustable styles. Score! PATTERNS I’M LOVING FOR SIZE-ADJUSTABLE SEWING By Hand London Alix dress Our 70s Ossie Clark-inspired gown gives the illusion of a fitted, streamlined silhouette, when, in reality, it’s actually just the ties sewn into the side seams that create the shape when tied back. Alix has fast become my favourite pattern for creating dresses that are both fabulous and functional. By Hand London Orsola dress This is slinky and form fitting, but the wrap-around closure means that this dress will still fit well and look great, give or take a few pounds. Other wrap dresses I love (but haven’t yet sewn) are the Victory Patterns Trina Dress, Sew Over It’s 1940s Wrap Dress and Simplicity 8013. Circle wrap skirt I wrote a wrap circle skirt tutorial for a previous column and it has genuinely been one of my most worn skirts of all time. The fact that it has a whole extra half circle to wrap around you means

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Republique du Chiffon Nadine shirt I’ve always had a soft spot for a cropped shirt tied up at the waist. it gives an edge to even the girliest of circle skirts (especially if you’re print clashing) and is never not cool with high-waisted jeans #GreaseIsTheWord. Make your size according to your pre-menstrual bust measurement (this should so be a thing, right!) and you’ll have a shirt that won’t ever feel like your going to bust the buttons!

that it can be worn both high on the waist and low on the hips, and it can see you through even the most extreme weight fluctuations, pregnancy included! Why not try the wrap circle skirt project on page 47? Closet Case Patterns Charlie caftan Similar to the Alix dress in that they both get their shape from waist ties, Charlie features an empire silhouette and casual kimono sleeves – perfect for heat waves and beach lounging. Named Astrid trousers Trousers are definitely the trickiest garment to sew for a fluctuating body, especially if you’re not a fan of Thai fisherman’s pants (I’m not). However, Named’s Astrid trousers have all the style of a great pair of wide-legged trews, with all the fit functionality in that side tie fastening. I’d make these in a medium-weight cupro for evening cocktails, and in crisp linen for summer days. Named Reeta dress Usually I would say that I’m not the hugest fan of drawstring waistlines simply because, in my eyes, they can have the tendency to look a little frumpy and mumsy. The Reeta dress however totally defies this and makes for a luxuriously breezy shirtdress that is anything but frumpy!

Charlie caftan, www.closetcasepatterns.com

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex is the head of design and co-founder of By Hand London, an independent pattern company. It produces gorgeously designed, highquality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

06/03/2018 14:35

We love


PLANT yourself down

This comfy floor cushion is a snip to make using a simple foundation piecing technique and co-ordinating fat quarters! Project LISA NAYLOR Simply Solids

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 8 fat quarters in co-ordinating prints for cushion top • 2 fat quarters for backing • 25� square wadding • 10� 1½�-wide ribbon • 22�-diameter cushion insert • 6 copies of template A • 6 copies of template B • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Finished size: 22� diameter All measurements include a scant Ÿ� seam allowance

CUTTING: FROM EACH OF THE 8 CUSHION TOP FQS, CUT: 7x13� rectangle – Piece 1 4x7� rectangle – Piece 2 5� square – Piece 3

FROM ONE BACKING FQ, CUT: 12x22� rectangle FROM SECOND BACKING FQ, CUT: 14x22� rectangle

HOW TO MAKE:  Foundation paper piecing utilises the paper templated during construction to ensure the fabric is positioned and sewn correctly.  Start with template A. Place the WS of a Piece 3 fabric on the underside of the template. Make sure the fabric covers segment 2 and it extends beyond the edges by at least Ÿ�. Pin in place.  With RST, place a Piece 2 fabric on top of the pinned Piece 3 fabric. Make sure it extends at least Ÿ� beyond the line between segments 1 and 2. Pin. (See Pic A.)

 Before sewing, check that when the Piece 2 fabric is flipped over it will completely cover segment 1 and extend at least Ÿ� beyond the edges of segment 1.  On the printed side of the paper, sew along the seam line, between segment 1 and 2, through all layers.  Press the seam open. Double-check the seam allowance is covered. With paper side up, fold back the fabric (to the original sewing position), then fold the paper

back along the stitched line. Use the edge of the paper as a guide to trim the seam allowance to Ÿ�. (See Pic B.) Open the fabric and press.  Use a Piece 1 fabric for segment 3. Follow steps 2-4, taking care as this is a much sharper angle. Trim the seam as before, then trim Ÿ� all around the template to make one Block A. (See pics C and D.)  Repeat to make a total of six Block As and 6 Block Bs using the B template.

Lisa Naylor Lisa has a give-it-a-go attitude and likes to try her hand at anything and everything new. She co-owns www.simplysolids.co.uk which is filled with gorgeous quilting cotton

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9 Sew one Block A and one Block B along the long sides, matching seams. Press seams open. Repeat for remaining blocks. Sew one A/B pair to another A/B pair. Press seams open. Repeat twice more. Sew the final seams to create the cushion top. Press. Place the cushion top onto the wadding square and pin. Quilt ¼” away from the seams in straight lines or a design of your choice. Hem one 22” edge on each of the backing

rectangles. Place one backing rectangle RS up on a flat surface. Place the other backing rectangle on top, RS up. Overlap the rectangles with the hemmed edges in the centre. Centre the quilted cushion top RS down on the overlapped rectangles. Pin well all around. Use a walking foot to stitch carefully around the edge of the cushion with a ½” seam allowance. Repeat a second time for added stability.

Trim the backing fabric, clip the seams if necessary to prevent puckering. Turn the cushion RS out and place the cushion insert inside. Sew a length of ribbon to each backing piece so you are able to tie the backing closed.

Top tip

Place the fabric against the unprinted reverse of the template and sew the seams along the printed lines!

We used a range of prints from the FreeSpirit range but solid fabric would also work B



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• Air Threaded Loopers

• Automatic Needle Threader

• Produces beautiful sharp curves for necklines and sleeves

•Use 2, 3 or 4 threads to produce 7 different finishes including rolled hem

• Wide Throat Area gives excellent • Adjustable Differential Feed gives a professional finish even on stretchy visibility of the fabric whilst overlocking or knit fabrics

Find out more at www.jukiclub.com

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06/03/2018 11:30



Janome has been providing sewists with top-quality machines for 90 years. We take a look at some of its latest creations


HD2200 The HD2200 is a robust yet elegant machine aptly built to withstand frequent use and a variety of general sewing projects. Choose any of the 23 built-in stitches and the machine will suggest the best stitch width and length, as well as the correct machine foot to use. There’s also an extra wide zigzag stitch that is perfect for producing embroidery stitches. The jam-proof dropin bobbin feature ensures you can set the machine up quickly and enjoy hours of uninterrupted sewing. Likewise, you can achieve neat buttonholes with the help of the automatic one-step buttonhole feature. There’s plenty of space for storing all your sewing accessories and the machine comes with a handy hard cover so it’s easy to store.









M200 QDC Part of the new Janome M series, the M200 QDC model is jam-packed with impressive features that will help you achieve professional results quickly. The M200 is the most advanced machine in the series and boasts 200 built-in stitches including 14 buttonholes and alphabet lettering. The machine can also work at a speedy 820 S.P.M so you will be able to achieve great results in no time. If you’re working on larger projects, there’s s a nifty extension table and you can keep all your workspace illuminated with the help of the bright LED lamp. The machine has a large storage space and comes with a hard case so it’s perfect for taking to classes or for sewists on the go.


HORIZON MEMORY CRAFT 9400 QCP Expand your sewing horizons with Janome’s latest longarm model – the Horizon Memory Craft 9400 QCP. Boasting a whopping 280mm arm space and a 9mm stitch width, this machine is designed to cope with large projects such as quilts and home furnishings. The 9400 is fully computerised and offers an impressive 350 built-in stitches which can be memorised so you can pick up where you left off. Similarly, you’ll be able to optimise your sewing time with the help of the maximum speed controller, programmable needle up/down feature and the full colour touch screen. This model is the largest longarm machine Janome has produced and offers sewists top quality performance and professional results.



£2,000 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

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WIN a new wardrobe!

We’re offering one lucky reader 12 special sewing patterns from The McCall Pattern Company. Build your new collection with these gorgeous separates, jumpsuits and dresses

Wear the trousers

Try these modern pleated trousers for a chic new silhouette. McCall’s 7726 are a high-waisted style but loose fitting through the hip and they look great with a belt or fabric sash. Available in sizes 6-22 in one envelope.


Every pattern on these pages


Monochrome magic

Designed by Rebecca Taylor, Vogue 1412 includes several eye-catching design lines such as pleated sleeves with button cuffs, shaped hemline and front variations for plackets and tucks. Available in sizes 8-16 and 16-24.

For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details along with the names of the products you would like to win at www.ppjump.


By entering these competitions, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities. Closing date 26th April 2018 unless otherwise stated

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Earn your stripes

Kwik Sew 4169 is a gorgeous wrap dress with V-neckline, elastic waist and different lengths of flared skirts. There’s even a racer-back option on view B! Available in sizes XS-XL all in one envelope.

YOU’LL ALSO WIN: Kwik Sew 4215 dress pack with sleeve and length options

Butterick 6506 2-in-1 floaty skirts pack

Vogue 1582 spring collarless coat design

Kwik Sew 4220 sportwear multigarment pattern

Butterick 6519 cold shoulder tops with hem, straps and sleeve options

Change your tunic

The star of this multi-garment pattern pack is the dolman sleeve tunic with clever seam lines, but Butterick 6525 has more to offer with both jersey trousers and a jersey skirt included. Available in sizes XS-M and L-XXL.

Frills and thrills

We’re in love with McCall’s 7723 and its amazing sleeve options! Customise with ruffles, cuffs, ribbon and eyelets to create a unique finish. Available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22.

Vogue 1580 modern trouser and jumpsuit pattern

McCall's 7714 gorgeous day dress with four styles to try

Pattern prices start at £8.25, available from www.sewdirect.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35

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The world’s most innovative fabrics

Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the world’s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code


www.lintondirect.co.uk 36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk TM72-Love-Sewing-HPV-90x266mm-v1-outlines.indd 1

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01/03/2018 15:48

We love

Make a



With plenty of room inside, this roomy quilted bag is practical but oh so pretty Project FIONA PULLEN The Sewing Directory

Shopping list We used the Art Gallery Fabrics denim studio range. Find your nearest stockist at www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

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MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 6-8 fat quarters Art Gallery Fabrics denim for patchwork exterior (or 1.5m single fabric if not doing patchwork) • 30” exterior fabric for side & top panels • 60” lining fabric • 2 co-ordinating fat quarters (or large scraps) for internal pockets (optional) & binding • 60” Soft and Stable or similar foam • 20” interfacing for internal or external pockets (optional) • 24” zip • 6” 60˚ triangle ruler • 1½ yard Stone Kraftex • 80” bag strap webbing • template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk





CUTTING: FROM 6 OF THE DENIM FQS, CUT: 6”-wide strips, cut into 52 triangles FROM EXTERIOR FABRIC, CUT: 2 25x6½” pieces for zip panel 2 12” squares for bag sides FROM SOFT AND STABLE, CUT: 2 12” squares for bag sides FROM KRAFTEX, CUT: 2 6x12” rectangles for bag side pockets 2 4x3” equilateral triangles for bag handles FROM LINING, CUT: 25x36” rectangle 2 12” squares for side 2 25x6½” pieces for zip panel

NOTES: Finished size: 24½” long x 11½” wide x 11½” tall ¼” seam allowance is used throughout unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Piece the 52 denim FQs into two rows of 13 and three rows of 14. Try to scatter the different fabric randomly throughout

and place any directional 12” external fabric square RS prints at various orientations. up with a Kraftex pocket piece Press all seams and sew the covering the lower half. Place rows together. (See Pic A.) on top of the 12” square Soft 2 Trim the panel to 36x25”, and Stable piece. (See Pic C.) making sure the edges 5 Quilt the panels above are straight. the pocket and baste 3 Place the the pockets around panel on top the edge to hold of the Soft in place. Repeat and Stable for the piece and other pieces. Choose lightweight trim the 6 On the lining so your bag foam. Baste long edges doesn't get too heavy the fabric of the large before you've to the foam patchwork filled it up! using glue panel, make a spray or pins. mark every 12”. Cut (See Pic B.) Quilt a ¼” notch on each of as desired. We used these marks. You can reinforce diagonal lines to create this by stitching a box around a diamond effect. each notch. 4 For the bag ends, place one 7 To attach the straps, mark

Top tip

9” and 15” from the side edges and make the marks both 2” and 4” from the top edge. These marks are the guide for the strap placement. 8 Cut webbing to the preferred strap length. This bag uses 29” of webbing. Pin straps in place and stitch to fabric, reinforcing by stitching over the same lines several times. (See Pic E.) Stitch only the bottom 3” of the strap, leaving a 1” gap between stitching and the panel edge. To hide the raw edges, stitch 4x3” Kraftex triangles in place. (See Pic D.) 9 Fold across the patchwork panel from the notch on one long edge to the matching notch on the opposite side. Repeat for both sets of notches, folding the fabric.

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Why not

TRY? Cherry Crimson, Outland Yarn Dyes denim

Rose Feather, Outland Yarn Dyes denim

Top tip

To add a firm base to the bag, cut plastic canvas to 25x12” and slide it into the base through the gap in the lining The part between the two notches is the base of the bag, while the other two pieces are the sides. With WS facing out, pin or clip the side panels to the exterior fabric and sew in place. Turn right way out. Mark notches in the lining fabric along the long edges and assemble as the outer,

leaving a turning gap on one side panel. Place the assembled lining bag RST with the bag exterior. Stitch around the upper edges to join the fabric. Using the gap you left, turn the bag RS out. Press to remove any creases. Add a bag base now if preferred. Stitch to close the hole in the lining. E

See www.hantex.co.uk/ mystockist for your local Art Gallery Fabrics retailer Press around the top of the bag, making sure to press the lining to the inside so it’s not visible from the outside. Top-stitch to hold the lining in place. (See Pic E.) To make the zip panel, add ½” of zipper tabs to each side of the zip. The zip plus tabs will now be 25” long. Place one lining fabric zip panel F

piece and one exterior fabric zip panel piece RST and sew on three edges, leaving one long side open. Repeat for other two panels. Turn them both through so WS are touching and press. Place the enclosed edges of the zip panel each side of the zip and stitch in place. (See Pic F.) Baste the long raw edges together with a scant ¼” seam. Open the zip fully. Turn the main bag panel inside out so lining is facing outwards. Pin the zip panel to the top four edges and stitch in place. Make binding using one of your spare fat quarters or using pre-made binding and bind the raw edges that will be visible inside the bag. And you're finished!

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B ritain’s N o.1 g uide to fabric & patchwork If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your perfect companion. Each issue is filled with beautiful quilting projects from big bed quilts to must-have accessories, using the latest fabric and stash-friendly scraps.



6"-square quilting ruler with this issue!






Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/qn48

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A brief history of


With 11 generations of skilled craftsmanship and a reputation for quality, William Whiteley & Sons remains at the cutting edge of scissor making www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41

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William Whiteley & Sons scissors are a popular choice for tailors


s sewists we take pride in our finished makes, whether it’s a beautiful cocktail dress for a special occasion or a patchwork quilt Sally Ward and we’ve spent months working her daughter Caroline on. We take care over our construction and trust in our tools that they will help us to achieve the best results possible. There are few tools more important than scissors, so it really can pay to invest in a good-quality pair you can rely on for years to come.

We are the only UK industrial scissor manufacturer left – because we never compromised on quality

Sheffield has been a powerhouse of British manufacturing for centuries, and while many companies have come and gone, the scissor manufacturer and cutting specialist William Whiteley & Sons is going strong after more than 250 years of trading. Located only 10 miles from the Peak District, the business has been passed down through 11 generations and gained a reputation for creating quality scissors and shears, especially enjoyed by the sewing community and world of tailoring.

11th-generation Whiteley Sally Ward explains that the business has remained at the forefront of the industry. “We have carried on making the bestquality scissors in Sheffield since then and are the only UK industrial scissor manufacturer left – because we never compromised on quality.” William Whiteley & Sons makes scissors and shears to cut all sorts of different materials, including everything from cotton, rubber, plastic, body armour, leather, heavy-duty carpet and more. It currently produces around 150,000 pairs of scissors each year to a huge range of customers from home sewists to Formula 1 car manufacturers and the Ministry of Defence. The refusal to compromise Scissors for on quality is the key reason Queen Victoria Sally believes the firm and its diverse selection of products have stood the test of time. “I can find our old tailor’s shears from the late 1800s and early 1900s, which will still cut.” This is down to always using the best quality material, testing every pair that is made and using highly skilled craftspeople.

The world of home sewing William Whiteley & Sons began manufacturing has been instrumental in scissors in 1760, although it is believed that the the success of William business may in fact have started operating even Whiteley & Sons since earlier. In the 18th century Thomas Wilkinson & Son also The William opened its doors in Sheffield Whiteley & Sons team and in 1840 it was appointed Manufacturers of Scissors in Ordinary to her Majesty Queen Victoria and Cutlers to HRH Prince Albert. The firm was acquired by the then William Whiteley in the year 1875, bringing together their joint expertise and skills in high-quality cutting. While other British scissor manufacturers continued to compete, Director and

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The scissor-making process is meticulous

its very early days and the business has produced scissors for many companies that supply the sewing and garment trade. Sally reveals that “many Savile Row tailors, international fashion houses and costume designers buy our bigger scissors and tailor’s shears” and as home sewing and crafting is becoming increasingly popular the business is seeing real demand from home sewists. “People realise the value of a really good pair of scissors and see them as a lifelong investment,” she goes on to add. Today, there is a team of 17 staff, including 13 specialist craftsmen. The scissors begin life as raw materials – high carbon steel forgings. A screw hole is drilled into each piece and every face of the blades and handle is finished so that they are smooth and comfortable to hold and operate. Everything is then hardened in a furnace before it is then polished, ground, plated, coated, sharpened and assembled. The process is meticulous and a real art form to create coveted scissors that will last the owner a lifetime. Some pairs of scissors can involve up to 39 production steps, meaning the makers involved must be incredibly well trained and skilled. As can be expected, no two days are the same, and the factory deals with more than 250 different types of scissors, including those with bent blades, cranked handles, tiny nail scissors, embroidery scissors and large tailor’s shears. Demands and tastes have changed over the years, according to the manufacturer, depending on what types of materials people are using. The most popular scissors tend to be the 5” and 6” general purpose pairs, and there has been a more recent rise in demand for plastic-handled scissors. Director Sally admits that it is difficult to forecast how William Whiteley & Sons will change over the next century, as it depends largely on finding talented craftspeople and investing in the latest modern methods of fashioning metal items, including finishing and edging, all without compromising on quality. “We have to design really good scissors,

Find out more Read more about William Whiteley & Sons and view the full range of high-quality, handcrafted scissors at www.whiteley.co.uk

which are easier and quicker to make.” This research and development is a key part of the future plans of the business, and it has been working hard to collaborate with local universities. The 21st century demand for handcrafted, UK-made scissors is very much there, especially in the sewing community. A recent Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign to launch the brand-new luxury EXO range was a huge success. The scissor collection was developed with assistance from the Advanced Manufacturing Research Centre at the University of Sheffield to make ergonomic and lightweight tools using state-of-the-art techniques and materials; this created pairs of scissors that can cut through even the toughest materials encountered at home or work, by tailors, crafters, DIYers and even interior designers. Fellow Director and husband to Sally, Jeremy Ward said that the “EXO range is designed for the people we most admire – people who take pride in creating”.

People realise the value of a really good pair of scissors and see them as a lifelong investment

WIN a pair of 8” sidebent shears, with chrome-plated blades and personalised name engraving. Turn to page 60 to enter

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We love KIDS

Sweet as

A DAISY Make an adorable bonnet fit for your prince or princess with this fun and frilly version of Butterick 4110 Project WENDY GARDINER McCall Pattern Company Brand Ambassador

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 50cm 150cm-wide (or 70cm 115cm-wide) cotton, gingham or seersucker • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

FINISHED SIZE: Head measurements: Small 46.5cm, Medium 49.5cm, Large 51cm.

NOTES: All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated

Top tip

For a more traditional finish, use cotton lace and add ribbon ties that can fasten under the chin HOW TO MAKE:

Shopping list Peach Delicate Petals cotton from the Threaders Home Grown collection, £4.18 per half metre from www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

1 Download the pattern pieces, and then with fabric folded, RST, cut out the back/ front/sides so there are 12 sections. Cut out two ruffle pieces and cut one bow and knot from bow section. Transfer pattern markings to the WS of the fabric. 2 Pin and stitch three of the side/front/back sections together and stitch with a 6mm seam, ending at the small circle at the top of the crown pieces. Repeat for the other three pieces. (See Pic A.) 3 With RST stitch the two sections together to form the crown. Turn through and press. (The other six pieces will be used for the lining).

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 With RST stitch the short ends of the ruffle together. Fold the ruffle in half with WST and press. Baste raw edges. Using a long stitch, sew two rows of gathering stitch along the raw edge and then pull thread tails to gather up the fabric. (See Pic B.)  Pin the ruffle to the RS of the lower edge of the hat, raw edges together, adjusting the gathers so it fits. Baste, stitch and turn the ruffle down. (See Pic C.)  Stitch the crown lining following steps 2 and 3. Turn in seam allowance on the crown lower edge and press.  Pin the lining to the hat, WST and slip-stitch the pressed edge over the seam. (See Pic D.)  With RST, fold the bow along the fold line. Stitch, leaving


This pretty bonnet is just one of the items in B4110. This pattern also includes three styles of dresses and panties and two jumpsuits. Browse and buy Butterick patterns at www.sewdirect.com

an opening. Trim and turn through. Press and slipstitch the opening closed.  Fold the knot fabric in half lengthwise, RST and stitch with 6mm seam. Trim and press the seam open. Turn through and press so the seam is in the centre. Wrap a length of thread tightly around the centre of the bow section and tie in a knot to secure. (See Pic E.)

Centre the knot over the bow, with the seam against the bow fabric, lapping ends at the back and turning in the seam on the overlapping end. Slip-stitch in place. (See Pic F.) Pin and stitch the bow to the front of the hat, just above the ruffle, centering the knot in the centre of the front crown panel to finish!

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clothspot.co.uk 01775 640996

New fabrics every Friday! 46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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This month 1'm making

This month, Anna reviews the Tilly and the Buttons Fifi pyjamas pattern. To see more of Anna’s fabulous makes, visit her blog www.tiptopsewing.blogspot.co.uk

Ditsy Floral Print Viscose Dress Fabric, £4.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com


pending hours and possibly days on a project that is only suitable for home lounging is a bit too much for some seamstresses, but once we get in the right mood to sew it’s hard to stop planning on making another set. That’s exactly what I experienced while working on my latest project for the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network.

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities. Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com/ blogger-network

I always avoided loungewear; the only item I’d made that is supposed to be worn at home is my husband’s pair of Superman shorts. It would have probably taken me another couple of years to start sewing my own pyjamas, until I spotted the Tilly and the Buttons Fifi sewing pattern. It looked absolutely perfect and exactly how I want a PJ set to be. I chose a ditsy floral print viscose challis fabric for my first set. It’s an extremely lightweight and soft material that is perfect for Fifi. Don’t let the delicacy of this fabric concern you though, it still sews and presses beautifully and easily. The Fifi set was my first indie pattern and the instructions were super clear and cover literally everything from construction to little techniques you need to know to give your set the most professional and tidy finish. I didn’t follow the instructions very strictly though – I skipped the recommended method of installing the shorts'

Anna says

The Fifi pattern is great for expanding your loungewear collection

elastic and decided to sew it into a tunnel casing. As for other changes, I lengthened the shorts a little (I would highly recommend choosing your size with some attention). Definitely consider the finished garment size, not the brand’s one; there is a very big difference between them and even though the idea is to give a lot of room for comfortable wear at home and during sleep, the size that I picked from the finished size chart is as loose as loungewear should be. The Fifi pattern is great for expanding your loungewear collection. Made of viscose challis it’s cosy and beautiful, and made of silk it is luxurious and seductive. Variety isn’t something that can be found in most pyjama patterns and it’s definitely something that makes Fifi unique and worth having in your pattern stash. I can’t wait to sew it again in silk satin with lace trim, but I’d highly recommend to test the pattern first with some of the viscose challis from the comprehensive selection of lightweight fabric at Minerva Crafts.

Anna used the Tilly and the Buttons Fifi pyjamas pattern, £12.50 www.tillyandthebuttons.com

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We love


That's a

WRAP This clever circle skirt has a wonderful swishy weight to it and the full wrap design won't reveal anything you don't want! Project KIRSTEN RONALD Lila & June Patterns

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • medium-weight woven fabric following yardage guide below • lightweight fusible interfacing for waistband (optional) • rolled hem foot (optional) • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk








44" WIDE

57" WIDE















































































 On a large, flat surface, lay out all the skirt pieces next to the piece they will be attached to.  We’re going to make French seams (see the Masterclass above). Sew the first half of the seam WST with a Ÿ" seam allowance. (See Pic A.)  Press the seams open, then


arrange the pieces RST. Complete the seam with a 3â „8" seam allowance.  Set your machine to a basting stitch. Starting at the top edge of one of the sides of the skirt, baste ½â€? from the edge all the way down the side of the skirt, along the hem, and back up the other side. (See Pic B.)  Press the hem up along this basted line, then roll it up another ½" and press again. Working from the RS of the skirt, stitch the hem to the skirt, staying as close to the top of the hem as possible. (See Pic C.) If you are using a rolled hem foot, you can change your machine foot,

*Fold piece 1 - WAISTBAND in half








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Kirsten Ronald Based in Texas, Kirsten is the creator of Lila + June patterns. Inspired by swing dance styles, the designs are as comfortable and durable as they are flattering. Find out more at www.lilaandjune.com




Top tip

Use a point turner to get neat crisp corners on the ends of your waistband. Don't have one? A chopstick is good in a pinch!


complete the hem and proceed to the next step.  If using interfacing, fuse to WS of waistband before construction. Sew the two halves of the waistband together with a Âź" seam allowance. Press open.  Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, RST. Press and sew the ends of the waistband at Âź" seam allowance. Sew about 4" in from the end of the waistband along the bottom with a 5â „8" seam allowance. (See Pic D.)  Clip the corners and grade the seam allowances down at the corners. Turn the ends RS

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out push out the corners, and press. Press the lower edges of the waistband up by 5⠄8".  Stay-stitch within the ½" seam allowance. Clip the seam allowance to open up the waist for the waistband. (See Pic E.) On a large flat surface, lay the waistband RS up with the unfinished edge pointing up. Lay the skirt on top of the waistband, WS up. Align the centre back seam of the skirt with the centre back of the waistband, and matching raw edges. (See Pic F.) Match the side seams and hemmed edges with

06/03/2018 17:56


FRENCH SEAMS Master French seams in two easy steps with our easy-to-follow masterclass!  Match the pieces with WRONG sides together, sew the seams with a ¼” seam allowance. Trim any excess.

 Press the seams open, then arrange the pieces RST. Press closed and sew the seam again this time at a 3⁄8" seam allowance. first seam allowance

first seam allowance the centre fold of the first seam becomes the the outside centre edge

fold of the first seam becomes the outside edges edge should

 The raw now be encapsulated neatly in the seam.



H the waistband markings, making sure the skirt fits the waistband evenly and pin. Stitch the skirt to the waistband with a 5⁄8" seam allowance. (See Pic G.) Fold the seam allowance of the unsewn side of the waistband up inside the band. Pin the folded edges of the waistband together,

being careful to encase the skirt seam allowances inside and cover the previous stitching line. Stitch the waistband closed by top-stitching 1⁄8" from the pinned edge. Top-stitch the ends and the top of the waistband. (See Pic H.)

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New fabrics added every week

sewoverit.co.uk/shop £2.50 UK P&P 0207 326 0376 FREE for orders £75+ www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 51

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workshops 7TH APRIL Thread and texture: beginner’s free-machine embroidery Learn how to free-machine embroider. You will be shown tips and techniques and quickly find how easy and fun it is. This course is suitable for complete beginners. Price includes use of sewing machine and all materials. Cost: £65


With over 100 sewing machines and overlockers on display, a friendly and a knowledgeable team and its own car park, Frank Nutt Sewing Machines is a great place to find your machine. Website for booking workshops: www.clairemuir.co.uk 0121 444 3978 www.franknutt.co.uk

HAPPY HARE Sheffield

Happy Hare is an independent sewing store based in Chapeltown, Sheffield. We stock a wide range of fabric, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. For all workshops, materials will be provided. For sewing workshops, you must be able to use a sewing machine with a reasonable level of skill. 0114 245 5996 handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk www.handmadehappyhare.com

7TH APRIL Beginner’s patchwork – nine-square cushion Learn basic patchwork skills by making a disappearing nine-patch cushion. Cushion pad included. Cost: £25

14TH APRIL Mirror magic Make a beautiful free-machine embroidered handbag mirror out of organza and silk, and a matching silk case for it. It’s a beautiful keepsake that can be made for a bride. Price includes use of sewing machine and all materials. Cost: £65

Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

28TH APRIL Sewing on soluble Learn what some of the different types of soluble fabric do and which to choose for your project, then you will make a beautiful bowl and hanging decorations. Price includes use of sewing machine and all materials. Cost: £65

30TH JUNE Beautiful butterflies Free-machine embroider butterflies on soluble fabric using sumptuous silk to decorate the wings. The bodies are then created from wire and beads and handsewn to the butterfly. Price includes use of sewing machine and all materials. Cost: £65

14TH APRIL Space rocket quilt Come and make our lovely space rocket quilt then add decorative appliqué to embellish it. Cost: £70

28TH APRIL Craft Saturday Bring along your craft projects to undertake in a sociable environment. Buffet lunch included – please advise of any special dietary needs prior to the day. Cost: £12.50

5TH MAY Introduction to sewing machines Learn how to wind a bobbin, thread up a machine, sew in straight lines and round corners and have a play with the decorative stitches! Cost: £20

12TH MAY Geranium child’s dress (Made by Rae pattern) An excellent introduction to dressmaking with this basic pattern. Cost: £40

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MINISTRY OF CRAFT With locations in crafter’s paradise Fred Aldous in Manchester’s Northern Quarter and The Edge in Chorlton, the Ministry tutors teach a huge variety of fun, friendly and sociable workshops for all tastes and abilities. 07740 860390 info@ministryofcraft.co.uk www.ministryofcraft.co.uk

31ST MARCH Sew your own stretch batwing top Become your own sewing superhero and overcome the fear of working with troublesome stretchy fabric. Experienced dressmaking tutor Alison Leese will fortify you with countless tips for working with knitted fabric. Cost: £47.50

21ST APRIL Sew your own wrap-around skirt Get to grips with understanding and using pattern blocks, and learn the secrets of cutting fabric successfully,

before moving onto constructing your skirt. Expert tutor Alison Leese will guide you through seams, hems, waistbands and making a perfect buttonhole, which sits on the waistband. Cost: £57.50

19TH MAY Sew your own kimono jacket Super quick to make, this kimonostyle jacket is a perfect garment for summer layering or a swish night out. We know lovely floaty fabric is notoriously tricky to sew so we’ve designed a course to help you to sew your ideal kimono jacket, no matter what your sewing ability. Cost: £57.50

2ND JUNE Introduction to hand embroidery Over a relaxing two and a half hours with The Great British Sewing Bee’s Deborah Simms, you’ll learn the easy and satisfying art of hand embroidery. Cost: £32.50

shopping – this dress always looks smart, (scuba doesn’t crease), and it is so easy to wear. Cost: £45

28TH APRIL Dunga dress – Altrincham


There are plenty of exciting classes coming up at Abakhan stores. The family-run company sources top-quality fabric, accessories and haberdashery for sewists nationwide. www.abakhan.co.uk

25TH APRIL Make a scuba summer dress – Atrincham Perfect for any occasion, such as parties, cocktails or afternoon

As featured in Jenniffer Taylor's book Girl with a Sewing Machine. Learn how to make a made-to-measure dunga dress with no pattern and just a few body measurements. The dress can be made in two variations, tunic or dunga style with patch or inseam pockets. Cost: £50

12TH MAY Sewing with stretch fabric leggings – Mostyn This class is designed to give you all the skills you need to sew stretch fabric. You will learn the triple stitch and how to use twin needles to make a pair of leggings. You can then go on to sew any stretch fabric with ease. Cost: £30

18TH MAY Essential techniques for shirts and blouses – Altrincham Shirts and blouses require a huge range of techniques to produce the perfect wardrobe item. This workshop concentrates on making traditional and convertible collars, producing sharp corners with no bulk. Cost: £45

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Craft Cotton & Canvas

Quilted Fabrics


Cotton Packs



Cotton Dress Fabrics

Indonesian Batik

Corduroy & Velvet

Crepe & Georgette


Waterproof Fabrics

Designer Brands

Denim & Chambray

Finest Cotton Lawn

We go way back to when a good night out cost less than 10 ‘bob’. The heritage of Croft Mill mail order fabric spans over 50 years and we are still sending beautiful fabric directly to your door. We are a family business based in Lancashire and we continue to source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and the rest of the World. See our unique corner of the World Wide Web at www.croftmill.co.uk or via our Mail Order Catalogue

Tel: 01282 859281




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Unlined jacket

Sew-along Part 3

Alison Smith MBE is sharing her tips for making a chic unlined wool jacket. It's time to add organza sleeve heads and draft a half back lining www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55

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Our sew-along is moving on swiftly, but if you’re just joining us and are keen to start you can pick up issues 49 and 50 at www.moremags.com

Pick up your copy of New Look 6035 from www.simplicitynewlook.com. Priced ÂŁ6.95, this multi-pattern pack includes options for two styles of jacket, top, trousers and a skirt THE UNDER COLLAR

I have chosen a contrasting under collar but yours may be the same fabric as the jacket. Apply interfacing to the WS of the under collar pieces. Join the under collar at the CB seam and press it open. Attach the under collar to the front neckline edges first, clip to the dot then open the seam allowance up to match the inner neckline raw edge. Sew then clip and grade the seam and press open.


Now to insert the sleeve! Make up the sleeve in both the wool and the lining. Prior to inserting any ease stitches, cut two 10x8cm bias strips of silk organza. Fold each in half to make two 10x4cm strips.

Pin a strip into each sleeve head, matching the raw edges. Insert two rows of long stitches; one row 1cm from the edge and a second row 1.3cm from the edge. Make sure the stitches start and finish at the tailor tack dots on the pattern. Insert the sleeve into the jacket. As you ease in the sleeve, the silk organza strip should help shape the fullness at the sleeve head. Once you are happy with the sleeve, stitch around again approximately halfway between the stitching and the raw edge. By now the jacket should be almost assembled except for the upper collar, the linings and the buttonholes.


Lining the sleeve makes it easier to put the jacket on and take it off, minimising strain on the seams and giving a comfortable finish. An unlined jacket is always easier to put on if you line the sleeve. On this pattern I am also lining across the upper back as this makes the jacket easier to slip on.

add 0.5cm. This will give just a little bit of fullness to allow for movement.

Cut this from your lining fabric. Hong Kong-finish the lower edge. Attach the back lining to the front facings at the shoulder seams and press the seams open. Attach the upper collar as you did the under collar and clip the seam. Press open. There's only one part left on our sewalong so let's finish things off in issue 52!



To make a pattern for the back lining, mark the stitching lines on the back and the side back and pin the tissue together, matching the stitching lines. Trace off a curved section across the jacket back and side back as shown. Make a pattern from this, but at the lower edge of the traced pattern piece

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

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th r o r W ove 25 .

8 1 £

OVER 16 SPRING PATTERNS TO SEW! Issue 19 on sale 29th March


Anneka tunic

Zippered crossbody bag

In sizes 6-22

Easy-wear Anneka tunic

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/sn19

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STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie shares her secret sewing tips for flawless waistbands


o you hate all the measuring and pressing that’s usually required when you add a waistband? I’ve recently been teaching with a product that makes it super easy! Also I like to avoid all the maths involved with working out which is the extension side of the waistband and which is the flush edge, along with how much ease/turn of cloth will be required… So here’s how I teach my skirt students to add a waistband. I’ve used a little costumier trick and sewn it initially to the wrong side of the skirt, but it works just as well the more conventional way.


Prym 4cm waistband shaper interfacing has pre-cut out sections along the stitch and folding lines. This allows the waistband to fold correctly without having to be pressed, plus it reduces bulk. Prym seems to be the only manufacturer doing a 4cm finished width, and this is my students' preferred depth. Cut a length that’s at least 5" bigger than your waist measurement. Use this to cut out the fabric for the waistband. I lay it glue side-down onto the fabric alongside the grain, with a little extra fabric at the sides. Fuse this onto the wrong side of the fabric, following the instructions. I always work from the middle outwards on either half, without steam.

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. We recommend ClaireLouise's new course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

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perfect fit


Fold the waistband in half along the lengthwise crease. Wrap it around your waist, pinning it in a position that feels comfortable. Leave a good bit of excess on each side for breathing room. Check it’s comfortable when you're sitting too! Transfer the pin mark to the wrong side of the waistband – this forms the centre points that will line up with the edge of the zip. As my mannequin is my measurements I was able to test it straight onto my dummy.

The Sew Over It Lizzie skirt is the perfect pattern to practise this technique www.sewoverit.co.uk

Pin in place and then top-stitch close to the edge. I chose to only top-stitch the lower edge of the waistband, but you could top-stitch all the way around if you wish. By top-stitching the right side in this way you can ensure the stitching is perfect on the outside of your skirt. It’s also less fiddly than trying to stitch in the ditch!


As there is likely to be a little ease around the waistline of the skirt, it’s useful to mark the half and quarter points on both waistband and the skirt. This will give you easy matching up points



Lining up the centre points with the outer edge of the zip, and then the corresponding half and quarter points, pin the right side of waistband to the wrong side of the assembled skirt. Match the fold line of the interfacing to the seam allowance of the skirt. Sew in place.


Press the seam allowance at the waist upwards then fold the waistband right sides together in half along the lengthwise centre fold line. On the right half of this skirt, I pinned along the previously marked centre back line. On the left half of this skirt I made a new mark, 11/2" away from the centre back line, to form the extension. This skirt has a back opening, so swap this if you're making a skirt that opens on the left side. Machine both of these short edges and then trim the excess seam allowance.

STEP 6. TOP-STITCHING SUCCESS Carefully turn the short ends through to the right side, ensuring the corners are nice and square. Fold the waistband along its length, turning over onto the right side of the skirt. Fold under the unsewn long edge of the band and pin in place over the waist seam, ensuring it covers the stitching line.

Ensuring that the extension is underneath, hand-sew a hook and bar to the waistband. The hook goes on top, and is set a little way back from the edge so it doesn’t poke out: the bar is sewn onto the extension. You can add an additional bar for after lunch, and a popper sewn on too can help secure the bar. I use flat trouser or skirt hooks and bars. If you don’t fancy hand sewing, add a button and buttonhole here instead of a hook and bar.

Find a wide range of Prym products online and in store at John Lewis

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Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

WIN a fabric bundle from Adam Ross



Offering a vast selection of dressmaking and home furnishing fabric, Adam Ross Fabrics is a brand that has become synonymous with great quality and superior customer service. The team is offering one lucky reader the chance to win an assortment of gorgeous fabric worth £150! To see more of the range, visit www.adamrossfabrics.co.uk

Worth £150

to win


Boasting a rich selection of gorgeous fabric, Croft Mill truly spoils you for choice when it comes to choosing material for your next project. To make the decision slightly easier, we’re offering three lucky readers the chance to win a bundle of beautiful fabric handpicked by the team. So, while you’re waiting to hear if you’ve won, check out the Croft Mill website at www.croftmill.co.uk

WIN a copy of Leather Bags Ever wanted to make a leather bag but not sure where to start? We have five copies of Leather Bags (£21.99, Lark) to give away to help you create stylish accessories and expand your skills. Kasia Ehrhardt presents 14 stunning projects – from an envelope clutch to a bucket bag – which are ideal for all levels. Learn how to work with different types of leather and make your bag unique and long lasting. The book has easy-tofollow instructions with over 250 supporting images and patterns. To find out more, visit www.thegmcgroup.com

£100 of books to win!

WIN A THREADERS FABRIKITS BUNDLE Three lucky readers will win a bundle of Fabrikits from the Threaders range at Crafter’s Companion. Ideal for beginners and those who like a quick project, the Threaders Fabrikits include everything you need to make a zip pouch, roll organiser and tablet case and include step-by-step instructions. Pattern pieces are printed onto the fabric so all you need to do is cut and stitch. To find out more, visit www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

Exclusive discounts 20% discount on full-priced patterns at Pipe Dream Patterns using the code LOVESEW51. Offer valid from 15th March until 26th April. www.pipedreampatterns.co.uk 20% discount at Girl Charlee using the code LOVESEW. Offer valid from 22nd March until 26th April. The discount is applicable for all fabrics, but not patterns, sale items or bargain lots. www.girlcharlee.co.uk

10% discount at Dragonfly Fabrics using the code March18. www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk 15% discount at Cotton Reel Studio using the code SEW15. www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk

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Ribbons are one of the most versatile accessories we have in our sewing kits. We’re giving four lucky readers the chance to stock up on some lovely decorations by giving each of them a £20 voucher to use on all products on the Fantastic Ribbons website. Start choosing your favourites by visiting www.fantasticribbons.com

3 to win

Two lucky readers will win a copy of Valerie Bothell’s, Joyful Daily Stitching – Seam by Seam (C&T Publishing, £22.99). Valerie guides you through a colourful world of embroidery with the help of step-by-step photos. This book is perfect for quilters and those wanting to add decorative embroidery to their projects.

WIN A PATTERN BUNDLE FROM CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew & So recently launched its own range of patterns called My Handmade Wardrobe, so this month it’s offering three lucky readers the chance to win two stylish and versatile PDF patterns from the range. Each winner will receive the Everyday Amazing Shift Dress and Top and the All the Cute Skirts pattern. The patterns come with printable instructions, style card and advice on measurements and the best fabric to use for each project. Find out more at www.craftysewandso.com


WIN a pair of dressmaking shears Every sewist will appreciate the benefits of good-quality shears when working on their dressmaking projects. We’re offering one lucky reader the chance to win a pair of 8” sidebent shears from William Whiteley. Established in 1760, William Whiteley has a reputation for providing great quality snips suited to a variety of projects. The proof is in the precision. Check out more of the William Whiteley range at www.whiteley.co.uk

We all know the importance of pressing and ironing during the dressmaking process and how easily our fingers can get scalded from the heat. To alleviate our precious pinkies the team at Clover has created the aptly named Iron Finger. This multi-purpose tool allows you to manipulate and steam press fabric whilst keeping fingers protected. We have 12 of these incredibly handy tools to give away – fingers at the ready! Clover products are available nationwide from all good craft, sewing and hobby shops. For stockist information, email Clover at clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

12 to win


BUTTON WEIGHT FROM BEYOND MEASURE Equip yourself with some essential sewing tools by entering this competition to win a pair of Cohana Shozaburo thread snips and a Cohana metal button weight from Beyond Measure. Made by renowned Japanese scissor makers, these robust snips are perfect for precision thread cutting and feature silk Iga braid around the handle which are available in four different colours. The cast iron button weight comes in an array of colours and weighs a whopping 350 grams so it's ideal for holding all your projects in place. To see more of the products stocked by Beyond Measure, go to www.shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk


For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details along with the names of the products you would like to win at www.ppjump.

com/lovesewing51 By entering these competitions, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities. Closing date 26th April 2018 unless otherwise stated www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 61

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clothbound makers of exquisite pressing tools


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Presenting a beautiful collection of fabrics and patterns from Sew Over It, Tilly And The Buttons, Atelier Brunette, Aime Comme Marie, Kimsa, Art Gallery, Lady McElroy, See You At Six, Soft Cactus and many more!


“I no longer dread having to climb the stairs.” Mr. Rowe, Nottingham

No more struggling with the stairs Stay in the home you love Suitable for all types of staircase 365-day local service and support

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We love

Brake the


CYCLE Try something new with this cropped quilted jacket! Project CLAIRE GARSIDE

Shopping list Bicycle-print chambray, £8.55 per metre www.empressmills.co.uk Vlieseline H650 double-sided fusible wadding, £10 per metre www.ladysewandsew.co.uk

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MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.5m chambray or similar weight fabric for outer • 1.5m satin lining fabric • 1.5m Vlieseline H650 double-sided fusible wadding • water-erasable marker • co-ordinating thread (or contrasting for topstitching) • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk







Excess fabric for self-made bias binding



NOTES: Seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise instructed

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Start by cutting your templates out of outer fabric, lining and fusible wadding. 2 Mark the front bodice darts onto both the RS of the lining and onto the wadding in water-erasable marker. 3 Mark and cut out the darts on the wadding pieces to reduce bulk. (See Pic A.) 4 Take the bodice back pieces and make a sandwich of outer, wadding and lining with the RS of each fabric facing out. Fuse in place using a pressing cloth to protect your iron. Vlieseline H650 takes 15 seconds to fuse so take your time and work methodically, taking care as the fabric will get quite hot! 5 Repeat for the remaining pieces until everything is fused. 6 Take a sleeve and match the side seams. Mark the centre line of the RS of the sleeve in water erasable marker. Take a quilting ruler with a 45˚ angle and mark the bias of the




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centre line. Next mark parallel each bodice piece on the lines 1” apart on the bias. overlocker or with a zigzag 7 Switch to the opposite 45˚ stitch. You might find angle and mark the bias as enclosing each edge with before with 1” spacing. It will seam binding to create look most pleasing to the eye a Hong Kong finish gives a if your bias lines meet exactly beautiful touch. Assemble the jacket body at the centre line as they by sewing the side and cross. (See Pic B.) shoulder seams. 8 Repeat for the Press the back bodice by seams open. establishing Assemble the centre the sleeves by back line Test your water sewing the then marking soluble marker is side seams crossing bias easily removed on a and pressing lines 1” apart. scrap of fabric to avoid them open. 9 When Install the it comes to heartache later! sleeves into the marking the armholes, easing bodice fronts, lay them gently to fit. them alongside each Trim the seam allowance other face up on the table to half and finish the raw as they would appear when edges as you did before for constructed. Use the centre the bodice. front edge of one jacket to Create co-ordinating establish the bias angle and bias binding tape using the draw the line across both masterclass on page 85 jacket fronts. (See Pic C.) or use shop-bought bias tape Treating the jackets fronts as to bind the outer edges of the one piece, continue to add jacket. Start by aligning the lines 1” apart on both angles tape with the RS facing the of bias. This way, the quilting RS of the lining at the centre lines will match across the back neckline. Pin all around front of the jacket. Using a complementary the neckline, centre fronts, and topstitching thread in your lower hem. Sew in place along needle, sew along each the first fold line. (See Pic D.) Lightly trim the seam quilting line working in the allowance back by 2-3mm to same direction. I find it best help the bias tape curve over to sew a line a line near the the raw edge. centre, and two near the Fold the bias tape over outer edges on each piece the raw edge so it covers the to secure the layers, then stitching line on the RS and continue to stitch the rest of pin in place with the second the lines. Try not to tug on the folded edge tucked under. fabric as you move it under Top-stitch the bias close to the needle or you may cause the folded edge. ripples in the quilting. Once you’ve completed Bind the sleeve hems in the all your quilting you can same way as the outer edges. Spritz the jacket with water assemble the darts on the to remove the quilting lines bodice fronts and press and lightly steam to help the these downwards. Finish the raw side quilting puff up. Let your jacket and shoulder seams of dry and it’s ready to wear!

Top tip


QUILTING TIPS Quilting clothes can take a little time, but it gives stunning results. Here are a few top tools to help you achieve sewing success 1 A walking foot can be a great help when working with multiple layers as it will feed the fabric evenly under your machine foot. They are great for all kinds of fabric so are a worthy investment.

3 Looking for a quick and easy way to create parallel lines? Position masking tape or Washi tape along the bias and sew down the gaps to create evenly spaced lines without lots of markings.

2 Quilting rulers are made of clear perspex and marked with helpful lines and grids to identify different angles. You can of course get different sizes but the bigger the better really!

4 There are regular machine feet that come with quilting guides – a metal prong that fits into the side of the foot, at your desired width and allows you to accurately judge distance.

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FABRIC Dress, ÂŁ18 www.mandco.com




INVASION Who can resist the classic combination of red, white and blue? Here are six sharp British-inspired fabric designs for you to swoon over 3




Fabric shopping  Pink lobsters (RBC7235PINK) Riley Blake's Seaside, visit www.eqsuk.com/stockists to find your local retailer  Little flowers on bright blue cotton, ÂŁ14 per metre www.bloomsburysquarefabrics.com  Red gingham (RBC7236RED) Riley Blake Seaside, visit www.eqsuk.com/stockists to find your local retailer  Broderie Anglaise white eyelet (Design 17), ÂŁ13.99 per metre www.higgsandhiggs.com  London Border Print poplin, ÂŁ20 per metre www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk  Blue Waves (RBC7515BLUE) Riley Blake's Let Them Be Little, visit www.eqsuk.com/stockists to find your local retailer 66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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7 High St, Storrington, W Sussex, RH20 4DR

01903 746204 Facebook: /sewsomethinghaberdashery sew_something_storrington@yahoo.co.uk

Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items. Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com


Sewing Courses Sewing Machine Repairs Dress Fabrics Patchwork Fabrics We stock a wide variery of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, as well as wools, cottons, and embroidery silks. We also offer an extensive range of haberdashery products.




fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, sewing machines, workshops & sew much more 20-22 Lavant Street, Petersfield, Hampshire, GU32 3EW

T: 01730 858 020 E: info@sewcreative.org.uk

Makers of exquisite pressing tools

Choose from a wide selection of hams to suit your sewing needs Custom orders also undertaken Sewing Machines, Overlockers and Embroidery Machines Free UK Delivery - order by phone, online or in store

www.clothbound.co.uk e:clothbound@outlook.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33 67

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We love

BAGS MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 50cm orange fabric • 50cm black & white fabric for lining • fat quarter white & black fabric for internal slip pockets • fat quarter black & white striped fabric • 45cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding • fat quarter Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing • 42cm heavy-duty black zip • 18cm orange zipper • black Ÿ�-wide Clover Quick Bias tape • black & white baker’s twine • gold ribbon • 8-10mm beech beads • main focus bead • hot-glue gun • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

To have & to


Personalise this quirky pouch with a name or quote using a clever bias-appliquĂŠ technique that's easy to create but adds an eye-catching feature to any project Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER







CUTTING: FROM THE TEMPLATE, CUT: 2 from orange print fabric for front and back 2 from lining fabric 2 from H630 wadding FROM POCKET LINING, CUT: 24x40cm for zip box pocket FROM S320 INTERFACING, CUT: 2 12x25cm pieces for slip pockets (one per side) FROM SLIP POCKET FABRIC, CUT: 4 14x27cm pieces

NOTES: Seam allowances are 0.5cm unless otherwise stated Finished size: 42x30cm

HOW TO MAKE:  Fuse the H630 wadding pieces to the WS of the orange main fabric.  Use the template and a water-soluble marker to transfer the writing to the pouch front. (See Pic A.)  Use your iron to attach

the letters. Ensure the word ends are off the ‘page’ so that the ends will be hidden in the seams. (See Pic B.) Where a letter terminates, the end of the middle of the M for example, fold the end of the tape under so that there is no raw edge. (See Pic C.) In other places, where a letter has an end, tuck it under the tape next to it  Set up your machine with co-ordinating thread and a zigzag stitch that is just wide enough to span the width of the tape and just touch the edges. Zigzag-stitch along the tape to affix it. The front is now finished.  The bag back has a handy

zip pocket. Place the pocket lining piece RST onto the back panel 3.5cm down from the top edge of the back panel.  Draw an 18x1cm box 3cm down from the top of the pocket lining. Draw another line horizontally down the middle of this box with angled

end. (See Pic E.)  Sew around the outer box line, cut along the inner line including the angles and ‘post’ the lining through the gap. Smooth everything out and top-stitch the zip in place behind the window. (See Pic F.)  Align the other short end

Amy says... This technique works for any phrase so why not try your name or favourite slogan?

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of the pocket lining perfectly with the first and pin. Sew the sides and top to complete the pocket lining. Thread baker’s twine through the zip pull. 9 Fuse the S320 interfacing pieces in the centre of two pieces of slip pocket lining. With RST, take one interfaced piece and one un-interfaced piece and sew around the very edge of the interfacing, leaving a turning gap at the bottom. Trim the seam allowance back to normal and clip the corners. Turn out through the gap

and press. Top-stitch to the lining 8cm down from the top edge. Divide into sections with vertical seams to stop sagging. Make 2m of bias binding using the black and white striped fabric by cutting 3.5cm-wide strips on the bias and joining them together to form a long strip. Fold in half lengthways and press. Fold the raw edges in and press again. Take the main top zip and make a sandwich on one side with the pouch front and a piece of lining WST. You

should have outer (facing out), lining (facing in) and then the top edge of the zip against the top edge of the lining. Pin and sew along the edge. Trim the raw edge and enclose with bias binding. Repeat for the other side. You will now have the main zip in and bound but with four layers (two outer and two lining) flapping about. Align the layers with the right lining layers facing together and inwards and the two outers facing out; just as

Top tip

Choose your colours carefully to create strong contrast. You don’t want the words fading into the background!

they are there with no turning necessary. Sew the side and base without gaps. Trim the edge if necessary. Bind the entire edge right to the top to finish your pouch.

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d l r o w s ’ r e n Garde Embrace spring and let nature in with a fresh colour palette and fun prints


Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerry’s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk


pring has felt like a long time coming this year and as my plant pots finally reveal green shoots I’ve found inspiration in Rae Ritchie’s Garden Sanctuary collection for Dear Stella. Rae is one of my favourite pattern designers; she has a delightful, hand-illustrated style with on-trend themes and designs that come from the heart. Her fabric is perfect for fussy cutting, that is when a fabric is cut to showcase a particular area or picture from the print. With Easter on its way I had to find some eggs and chicks to add to the spring fabric party along with some leaping hares! The chicken wire print from the Moda Homegrown collection is a fun blender to use alongside the picture prints. I’ve added contrast with a couple of solid fabric choices. These include Cloud9 Cirrus solid, which features a yarn-dyed broadcloth, great for clothing as well as quilts and the lilac colour brings warmth to the fresh, spring colour palette. This month’s quilt block is Formal Garden and it is a great way to get to some practice sewing half square triangles. www.nannycraft4u.com.au/2017/03/formal-garden



Shopping list 








Garden Sanctuary, Tools, Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella, ÂŁ4 per FQ, www. oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk Garden Sanctuary, Chickens in Shamrock, Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella, ÂŁ4 per FQ, www. oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk Homegrown, Distressed Whitewash, Deb Strain for Moda, ÂŁ3.70 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk Cirrus Solid in Lilac, yarn dyed broadcloth, by Cloud 9 Fabrics, ÂŁ4.30 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk Home Grown, Chicks and Eggs, Henley Design Studio for Makower, ÂŁ3 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Kona, Eggshell, by Robert Kaufman, ÂŁ2.25 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Into the Woods, Hare in Green, by Makower, ÂŁ2.90 per FQ, www. emmasfabricstudio.co.uk Forest Talk, Pine Dots in Purple, Cathy Nordstrom for Andover, ÂŁ3.05 per FQ, www.emmasfabricstudio. co.uk

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We love


Hold your


If you've been a long time admirer of Tula's fabric range, you'll be overjoyed to see she's turned some of her favourite designs into embroidery motifs! Why not add these gorgeous horses to your home today? Project TULA PINK

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • • •

sizes 9 & 7 embroidery needles 12" embroidery hoop Frixion marker (optional) tear-away stabiliser or tissue paper (optional) 10"-square of solid cotton or linen fabric 10"-square of felt for back Anchor stranded embroidery floss in colours 45, 85, 87, 185, 1041 & 1076 template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

FINISHED SIZE: Finished embroidery measures approximately 19.5x23cm

NOTES: Use two or three strands of floss to stitch up the small to medium motifs, and four strands for the largest ones The fewer strands you use, the smoother and glossier your satin stitch will be. It's best to change the size of your needle to suit the number of strands you’re using


Tula Pink Coloring with Thread, available now, £16.99 www.sewandso.co.uk

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B 1 2


3 D












HOW TO MAKE:  Choose a medium-weight woven fabric to stitch your design onto. Quilting cotton, linen or canvas are great options.  Transfer the design onto your fabric by tracing the design onto tissue paper or tear-away stabiliser and pin

against the right side of the fabric. You will stitch through the paper and, once your design is complete, you will need to tear away the paper. Tweezers will help remove any stray pieces of paper.  If your fabric is light coloured enough you may be able to place the template

and fabric up against a light box, or bright windowpane, and trace the design using pencil or a Frixion pen.  Trace around the pattern, keeping the lines as smooth and fine as you can.  Backstitch can be used as an outline and a filling stitch. Back-stitch to outline the large flowers, then create the stitching in a different floss colour to fill the flowers in.  Use split stitch as a fill on the horse to give texture to the coat and the mane. This stitch looks best when you have an even number of strands of floss in your needle.  Use satin stitch to fill in the small pink flowers and the leaves. Take your time to keep the edges even and the surface smooth and glossy. Then stem-stitch the stems.  When you reach the end of a working thread, stop with the needle at the back of the work and stitch through the back of previously worked stitches to secure the end of the thread and avoid a bumpy knot.  Remember to avoid leaving long thread tails on the back of the hoop as you are likely to get tangled in these tails as you work a new length of thread.

Remove the outer hoop from the embroidery. Draw around the inside of the hoop onto a piece of felt and cut it out. Take out the finished work and press your fabric, avoiding the embroidery. If needed, lightly steam above the surface. Replace the hoop on your embroidery, repositioned ready for hanging. Trim the fabric around the edge of your hoop, leaving approximately 1� spare all the way around. Sew large straight stitches around the edge, ensuring that both ends of the thread come out of the fabric on the same side. Draw the threads together at the back of the embroidery and tie together. Whip-stitch the felt on the back, passing through the fabric at the edge of the hoop to secure it in place. If you're worried about the felt shifting as you sew, dab a small amount of glue on the fabric to temporarily hold it in place while you stitch. If you wish you can add a hanging loop of ribbon or fabric, looped around the hoop fastener.

Tula Pink

Tula is an icon of the fabric and quilting world. She has designed over 20 fabric collections, as well as needlepoint kits, her own line of sewing tools and is the author of five books! Find out more about her world at www.tulapink.com

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Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie


These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the endof-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.


Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.


The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.


The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line. TUCKS/PLEATS

Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern PLACE ON FOLD LINE

This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time. pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.



Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.


Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.



These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 68

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE

This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.


Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

30/05/2017 15:01

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT  Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.


First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement



High bust measurement







1/2� SBA = half the difference

11/2� FBA = half the difference

 Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position.  Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

 The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level. Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

 Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E)  Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. This is essentially the same process in reverse.

 From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

 Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount.  The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

 Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.












2 lap



Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can easily do this yourself. NARROW BACK (FIGS A – C) B



 Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. You’ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D)  Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.




 Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point.  Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Ÿ� adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills.  Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.)  You’ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder. BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E) D




SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. LENTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper. A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line. To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 69

 Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.


 Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Ÿ-½� adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together.  Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.)  This time you’ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that you’ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

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Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for. Bernina and Janome stockists

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955






Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities. 180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms





Reads of Winchester From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned. Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around!

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU

Tel 01962 850950

01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm





Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk


Badder Fabrics of Hereford

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'! Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery. 185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

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Surrey KT8 9HA

Beautiful fabrics and workshops where you will find a warm and friendly welcome.

Shop open 7 days a week 1000s of bolts, books, notions, buttons & beads and bag making accessories Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, Ipswich IP3 9BF kisquiltingltd@yahoo.co.uk 01473 722888



A Good Yarn A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.

Home of Crafty Betty & The Fabric Daisy Services we offer are: Workshops, Courses, Hen and Birthday Parties, Arts Award, After School Clubs, plus we have a retail area where we sell fabric and handcrafted goods.

We run weekly classes and workshops. We also stock wool.

www.creativequilting.co.uk isabelle@creativequilting.co.uk 020 8941 7075


www.thelittlekraftshed.co.uk A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics. Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique childrens clothing.

www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk 01636 705909

11-12 GeorgeNo.1 Arcade, South Molton, Devon, St Teilo Street Pontarddulais EX36 3AB, 01769 574071 SA4supplies. 8TH Classes PatchworkSwansea, and quilting 01792 886 986 and workshops. melanie.1971@live.co.uk Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk

2 Market Street, Ulverston, LA12 7AY 07742 247 179 or 07815 691 258 thelittlekraftshed@gmail.com





The Sew Easy Sewing Shop

Fabric so lovely you will want to keep it forever! Batik, Kaffe Fassett, Liberty, and much more. Workshops, and classes, and holidays in our Quilters Cottage. Fourways One, Bridge Street, Amble, Northumberland, NE65 0DR

Funkyneedlework.co.uk 07967 210 117 or find us on Facebook


Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products. 80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE

07952709910 www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk



• Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines 7 High St, sewing Storrington, • Fabrics library and accessories Wknowledgeable Sussex, RH20 • Friendly, service4DR

01903 746204 1 The Broadway, We stock a wide variery of patchwork and dressmaking Brighton fabrics, Road as well as wools, cottons, and embroidery silks. We also Worthing, offer an extensive range of BN11haberdashery 3EG products. T: 01903 200771 www.sew-something.co.uk E: katybobbin@gmail.com



NORTHALLERTON Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter. Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk



fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, Welcome to my lovely & craft emporium! workshops more We have lots of crafty goodies for sale 20-22 Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, however support, inspiration and the Hampshire, GU32 3EW service with a smile are free! T: 01730 858020 Open 9.00am - 5.30pm E: info@sewcreative.org.uk

Monday to Saturday

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com


Kwilters to advertise in Korner Wharfside, Couch Lane, Devizes, Wilts SN10 1EB Tel: 01380 725182

call NOUNE on 0161 474 6997

Stockists for Lewis & Irene, Makower, and Moda. www.kwilterskorner.com


• Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service

1 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing, BN11 3EG T: 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com


42 www.quiltnow.co.uk Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Award-winning long-arm quilting service in QN34.P40.indd 42 Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a Sheffield. Choose from edge-to-edge variety of crafts. to heirloom quilting. As the UK HandiQuilter Educator, it also provides 1a Arundel Road long-arm quilting lessons. Sheffield S35 2RB SOAR Works 0114 2455996 Knutton Road handmadehappyhare Sheffield, S5 9NU @yahoo.co.uk


07834320104 Info@capricornquilting.co.uk www.facebook.com/CapricornQuilting

Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Like our fabrics but want to make something yourself? Molly Felicity Designs are now offering vintage inspired fabrics and prints so you can create something wonderful yourself

To advertise please contact Noune on 0161 474 6997 or email noune.sarkissian@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

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Bring the

OUTDOORS IN Welcome the new season, lighter nights and the return of your favourite wildlife with our pick of home décor ideas and creative kits to try this month

Beautiful bunnies This adorable scrap-busting bunny garland is perfect for using up leftover print fabric and can be easily sewn up in an afternoon. Don’t forget to get some tiny pompoms for their fluffy tails! The pattern is from the fabulous Kellie Rose, and was originally featured in issue 11 of Love Sewing. Download your free templates now from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Thanks a bunch

Nothing says spring quite like a lovely bunch of daffodils! This wreath kit shows you how to make stunning felt flowers and transform them into a striking piece of wall art. The kit includes a 30cm polystyrene ring, wool-blend felt, embroidery floss, sewing thread and Merino yarn to wrap around the wreath. Download the free instructions and PDF, and buy the full kit, priced £25 from www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk

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We love

Pastel perfection

Find this beautiful Tilda quilt project inside issue 48 of Quilt Now on sale 5th April – bunny not included!

Adding fresh pastel colours to your bedroom is a fantastic way to brighten things up. This stunning compass star quilt design is made of squares and half square triangles and has been made exclusively using the Tilda Circus fabric line. You can find this project inside our sister magazine, Quilt Now. We're afraid Pickles the rabbit doesn't come with the issue but I'm sure you'll agree he's mighty cute! Issue 48 goes on sale on 5th April, priced £5.99 and is available from Tesco, Sainsbury's, Morrisons, WHSmith and www.moremags.com

April showers

You won't be able to scowl when you see this raindrop! We think this adorable plushie could easily be turned into a helpful doorstop by adding a weight to the bottom of the base. Choose bright peppy colours and add sweet features with simple embroidery to create a cheerful character. Try the free pattern and tutorial at www.we-are-scout.com

Watch the birdy

Happy hoops

Sew up a set of chirpy birds with the charming Kwik Sew K0237 Happy Tweeters pattern. Scatter the four different critters around the house as decorations or keep one close by on your sewing table as a quirky little pincushion.

Looking for a project that will keep you busy for a little while? We recommend the amazing floral patterns available from DMC Embroidery including this pop floral design from Jess Phoenix. What's great is that you'll find 1000 free to download designs once you sign up to the newsletter.

Available for £8.99 from www.jaycotts.co.uk

Find out more at www.dmc.com

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Knits instead of

ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com


When you’ve found a fabulous knit fabric and the pattern you want to make calls for woven fabric, can it be done? Yes – when armed with a few golden rules. Wendy Gardiner Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company shares her top tips


sing a knit fabric can simplify fitting alterations and eliminate the need for extensive seam finishing, but there are other considerations to take into account. The differences between a pattern designed for woven fabric and one designed for stretch knit fabric will be the amount of ‘ease’ that has been built in (more for woven fabric) and any fastenings or closures. A woven garment will usually have a zip or buttons, whereas a stretch garment may not have any fastenings at all. Generally speaking, it is advisable to use one of the fabric types recommended on the back of the pattern envelope, but of course, you can go off-piste and use a knit fabric on a pattern for wovens, just bear in mind a few simple rules.


Think double knit fabric, or cotton jersey. The new four-way stretch fabric, such as scuba knits, are also good. Avoid really stretchy fabric that has Lycra or Spandex in it (these are designed for very close fitting garments and are often slippery).

2. CHOOSE A PATTERN WITH SIMPLE STYLING A wrap dress is perfect for knits – stabilise the front bias edges with edge tape to prevent them stretching out of shape (Butterick 6446)

For instance, knit fabric doesn’t always hold pleats very well. A cotton jersey may gather nicely, the way a woven fabric will, but a double knit may be too bulky – it is better suited for simpler styling. Lots

of buttonholes on knit fabric can be a challenge – consider changing the method of fastening. If you really want buttonholes, make sure you add good stabiliser in between the garment and facing, and possibly a piece of wash-away stabiliser on top. Also sew corded buttonholes that will retain their shape even after repeated use.


These are found on the back of the pattern envelope and/or on the tissue pieces. Compare these to body measurements on the pattern envelope and see what the difference is. A knitted garment can be closer fitting so you may be able to make a slightly smaller size – but do check.

4. LOOK AT THE FASTENING OR CLOSURES Can you leave them out and just stitch up the seam? Will the garment fit over your head, shoulders and bust without an opening left for a zip? For a skirt or trousers, can you replace a zip with an elasticated waist? Will the garment fit over your hips?


If you do still need or want a zip, stabilise the seam allowance with a strip of fusible interfacing to give support and prevent a rippled seam/zip. Equally, if the fabric is heavy or the design means most of the dress hangs from the shoulders, stabilise the shoulder seams with a strip of cotton tape stitched to the seam line. This will help prevent the weight of the dress dragging it down and drooping.

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A woven garment will usually have a facing or lining at the neck and armholes on a sleeveless top or dress, but with a jersey fabric you can either simply turn under the edge and top-stitch in place or finish with bias binding, which is my preference. If you just turn and stitch the raw edge, consider using a twin needle to top-stitch it in place. When adding a bias binding, choose a narrow bias binding of 13mm, open out one folded edge and stitch in the crease, right sides together around the neck edge, lapping the binding ends at the centre back seam. Turn the binding completely to the inside and slip-stitch in place or top-stitch about 6mm from the edge from the right side, catching the binding in place as you sew.


• Needle choice – you will need to stitch a knit fabric with a ballpoint needle or a stretch needle. A ballpoint needle has a rounded tip and will part the fibres rather than pierce them. This prevents skipped stitches that might occur if you use a universal needle. A stretch needle is for very stretchy fabric such as those with Lycra and Spandex; it also has a slightly rounded tip. Test on a scrap of fabric to determine which works best for you. • Seams – use the stretch stitch (looks like a bolt of lightening) for horizontal seams that do need to stretch with the fabric, eg when putting the garment on. • Seam neatening – most knit fabric doesn’t fray so won’t need the seam neatening, but with some knit fabric the edges curl. To prevent this, stitch the seams with a double seam – to do this, stitch once on the seam line and then again about 3mm away in the seam allowance. Trim close to the second stitching.

You can avoid hemming issues by leaving the edge raw when sewing with knits (McCall's 7725)

A scuba knit makes a lovely form-fitting dress (McCall's 7719)

• Hemming – some knits can be left raw-edged or hemmed in the same manner as a woven fabric, just be aware of the stretch. A strip of fusible interfacing in the hem allowance can help prevent unwanted stretch as you hem, or you can opt for a lettuce-edge hem – where you stretch the fabric in front and behind the needle as you sew with a small satin stitch over the edge of the fabric (set the stitch width to 3-3.5 and stitch length to 0.4). It is a lovely light finish for a knit fabric.


You can do the reverse and use a woven fabric when sewing a pattern designed

for knits, but you need to consider sizing – the ease and sizing for a knit garment may well be smaller so you’d have to adjust or make a bigger size. As before, check the finished garment measurements and compare these with the body measurements. With a closefitting woven garment you need at least 3-5cm ease at the bust, 2.5-4cm at the waist and 6-8cm at the hips minimum. You will also probably need to add an opening for zip or button fastenings – if you do add a seam where there isn’t one, remember to add seam allowances to the pattern pieces before cutting out. If there are no facings or lining you can add these yourself, or use bias binding at the neck edge.

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We love


SHIFT your thinking

The Freemantle Frock features contouring princess lines down the front of the dress, with some sneaky hidden pockets. It’s a great wear-anywhere dress! Project LINDSAY RAE Sew To Grow

Shopping list Abstract Blue Paper Meadow by Jilly P for Dashwood Studio, £3.25 per fat quarter www.eternalmaker.com

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33-34� (84-87cm)

25-27� (63-68cm)

35-36� (89-92cm)


35-36� (89-91cm)

28-30� (71-76cm)

37-38� (94-96cm)


37-38� (94-96cm)

31-33� (79-84cm)

39-40� (99-101cm)


39-40� (99-101cm)

34-35� (86-89cm)

41-42� (104-106cm)


41-42� (104-106cm)

36-38� (91-96cm)

43-44� (109-111cm)


43-44� (109-112cm)

39-40� (99-102cm)

45-46� (114-117cm)


45-46� (113-117cm)

41-42� (104-107cm)

47-48� (119-122cm)


47-48� (119-122cm)

43-44� (109-112cm)

49-50� (124-127cm)

CUTTING: Sleeves

Front sides






MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 3 yards (2.75m) of 44�-wide fabric eg quilting-weight cotton, chambray or Japanese linen • 1.25 yard (1.25m) of ½�-wide (12mm-wide) premade single-fold bias binding or ½ yard (0.5m) fabric to make your own • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: All seams are 3⠄8� (10mm) unless otherwise stated Finish the raw edges after sewing If you don’t own an overlocker, we suggest using an overcast or zigzag stitch to prevent your garment fraying


Lindsey Marsh

Sew To Grow Designs was born out of a passion to ignite, enlighten and inspire your creativity!

 Place pocket right sides together (RST) with side seam of front dress matching notches.  Sew a ½â€? (12mm) seam between the pocket notches. Back-stitch at the beginning and end.  Clip into the side seam allowance, up to the stitching line exactly at the notches. Press the seam towards the pocket.  Edge-stitch, about 1â „8â€? (3mm) from the seam, between the pocket notches to secure the seam allowance in place.  Place the remaining pocket pieces RST with sewn pockets

matching outer edges. Sew together with a 3⠄8� seam allowance. Overcast/ zigzag-stitch once sewn.  Press the assembled pockets to the WS of front dress. Pin them in place so they are out of the way when sewing on the front side pieces. The pocket should start just outside the seam allowance on the front piece.  Pin one front side piece RST with front piece, matching the raw edges and pinning through a single layer of pocket. Ease the curves as you pin. (See Pic A.)  Sew a 3⠄8� (1cm) seam, taking care at the curves and not to sew the pocket shut. Overcast/ zigzag-stitch once sewn.  Press the seam towards the side seams (away from the middle). Repeat on opposite side. Place front and back pieces, RST, matching shoulder seams, as shown. Sew with a 3⠄8� (1cm) seam. Overcast/zigzag the seam allowance once sewn. Press up the lower edge of the sleeve by ½� (12mm). Repeat then pin in place and sew close to the inside folded edge. Pin the sleeve into the open armhole RST. Pin in the centre first, then the ends and finally ease and pin the rest of the sleeve. (See Pic B.)

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Sew seam at 3/8” (1cm). Overcast/zigzag-stitch once sewn. Repeat this for the opposite sleeve. Place front and back dress RST. First, pin the undearm, matching seams, then pin the rest of the side together. Sew each seam at 3/8” (1cm), pivoting at the underarm. Overcast/zigzag-stitch once sewn. (See Pic C.) Pin the hem facings RST, matching the short ends. Sew with a 3/8” (1cm) seam. Press seam open, then overcast/zigzag-stitch on the upper edge of the hem facing. Place the unfinished edge of the hem facing and dress hem RST, aligning the raw edges. Match the front and back and side seams. (See Pic D.) Pin in place and sew 3/8” (1cm) seam all the way around. Once sewn, press the facing to WS of dress, ensuring the seam lies flat. Pin the hem facing on


the inside of the dress and edge-stitch 1/8” (3mm) from the finished edge to secure. Pin one raw edge of the bias tape to the RS of dress around the neckline, starting at the centre back area. Using a 3/8” (1cm) seam, start sewing 2” (5cm) from centre back, leaving 3” (8cm) of extra bias. Finish 2“ from centre back on the opposite side with the same overhang. Open one end of the bias to expose the WS and place over the centre back. Mark at the centre. (See Pic E.) Repeat for the opposite side. Sew the bias ends RST at your marks. Trim the seam allowance and press open. Fold the bias back WST and sew remaining gap at 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Fold and press the bias to the WS of neck. Pin in place. Top-stitch close to inside folded edge all the way around the neck. (See Pic F.)

Make oodles of bias tape using a single fat quarter. Use this clever technique from Nicole Smith, author of pattern drafting book Skirt a Day Sewing, to make a continuous strip of bias with just one square of fabric 1 Cut your fabric into a square and mark the bias line between the upper left and lower right points as shown. Cut along this line.

2 Using a narrow seam allowance join the two pieces back together to maximise the bias of the fabric. Mark even lines on the diagonal to your preferred width.

3 Match the unsewn edges to create a loop of fabric, aligning your previously drawn bias lines as shown. Use a narrow seam to join the fabric together.

4 Cut along the marked lines in a continuous motion to create an extremely long strip of bias binding. You can then press into single or double-fold tape as required.

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 Copper Eco leatherette, ÂŁ15 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk  Cognac 0.55mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17  Mint  Mama All the Roses  White Allthe Roses leatherette, Lilac Busy Blossom Busy Blossom  Navy Busy Blossom per5ftLilac square www.pittards.com Burgundy ÂŁ6 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk skin,  Coral Elderflower LilacÂŁ17 Elderfl Press www.pittards.com Press Mintmid-blue All the Roses pink 0.7mm-thick leather perower 5ft square Spotprint denim, ÂŁ8.99 per metre www.  Shell All fabric is available www.sewoverit.co.uk priced ÂŁ16 per metre abakhan.co.uk pink softatfaux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per metre www.dragonfl yfabrics.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87

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Sampled Lives and other


With Wendy Ward

Sewing doesn’t have to be relegated to the sewing room! Wendy explains the range of wonderful exhibitions you can visit over the next few months


love a good textile exhibition and have been lucky enough to see some great ones in the past year. One that sticks in my mind was Sampled Lives, an exhibition of over 100 samplers from the extensive collection of the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge. The exhibition is contained in one fairly small gallery, but what mind-boggling wonders it holds. DOCUMENTING SOCIAL HISTORY Samplers can offer rare insights into the maker’s family history, literacy, ambitions and religious beliefs; and even the political and social environments in which they lived. As so many of them were made by girls and women not from the upper classes and aristocracy, they provide valuable material to enable historians to study the lives of so-called ordinary people.

Unfinished sampler from 1655

One example of this is in traditional 17th century ‘band samplers’, where rows of repeated and often stylised flora and fauna can be read as symbols of hidden meanings – usually of social or political views that would be dangerous to express in public during times of huge social and political upheaval.

Example of linen white work from 1728

I find this contrast of dangerous political views being hidden in seemingly inoffensive genteel embroidery really exciting and I can immediately see similarities in the work of contemporary artists, albeit on a less subtle scale. There’s the oft-repeated myth of Alexander McQueen writing anti-establishment

19th century military patchwork

messages inside the suits of Savile Row clients and Grayson Perry’s 2013 collection of ‘Vanity of Small Differences’ tapestries celebrates the never-ending fascination us Brits seem to have with class and taste. Amazingly, a piece of embroidery from the 1600s survived; the colours in many of the pieces are bright and most of the samplers are still intact and undamaged. This is incredible considering the prevalent and everyday dangers textiles face such as damp, light damage and moths! DECORATIVE VS UTILITARIAN Samplers were typically used as a form of practising and showcasing the needlework skills of girls and women, but as times changed so did the style of the samplers. The careful craft of darning was celebrated with the development of

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19th century plain sewing sampler

darning samplers from as early as the 18th century. As any kind of textile was valued a lot more than in today’s throwaway society, being able to darn and repair well was an essential skill and could be decorative at the same time as fulfilling a utilitarian purpose. By the 19th century, women and girls had started to produce plain sewing samplers, but they were anything but plain. Their name derives from the fact these samplers showcased utilitarian sewing needlework skills as opposed to the purely decorative forms of embroidery. The decorative samplers were considered a kind of rite of passage and a genteel hobby for middle class girls and women. The samplers elevated the utilitarian hand sewing used in dressmaking and mending such as buttonholes, button loops, collars, gathers, patching, cuffs, pin tucks, mitred corners, bound edges and more, into an art form and one which often displayed a higher level of skill than traditional embroidery. They were usually produced by lower class women in the hope of securing work as teachers and so being able to earn their own living. Emancipation for women via the humble needle and thread!

on until 7th October and is free to visit. Check the museum direct for opening times at www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk. I also recommend the accompanying catalogue by Carol Humphrey, it’s incredibly detailed, full of beautiful photographs of all the pieces in the exhibition and really reasonably priced at £19.99. INSPIRATION AT COMPTON VERNEY I visited Compton Verney in Warwickshire for the first time last summer to see the exhibition on op art: Seurat to Riley – The Art of Perception. The gallery was stuffed full of textile inspiration; the work of artists in the op art exhibition has obviously heavily influenced today’s modern quilters and textile artists – from Victor Vasarely’s geometric arrangements to Josef Albers’s work on colour. Much inspiration was found outside of this temporary exhibition too, as Compton Verney holds the UK’s largest collection of British folk art. I have a real soft spot for folk art, it can be quirky, naive and include everyday objects such as furniture, tools and shop signage as well as paintings, textiles and sculptures, it also tends to be both utilitarian as well as decorative. Folk art is usually made by those without any formal art training as well as tradespeople – art by the people for the people! There was a particularly wonderful military patchwork in the collection, dated

Dangerous political views being hidden in seemingly inoffensive embroidery is really exciting

I highly recommend you visit this small but absolutely perfectly formed exhibition if you can. It’s a wonderful celebration of highly skilled needlework and the changing lives and status of women and girls in British society. The exhibition is

I design my own range of easy-to-follow modern sewing patterns called MIY Collection. I am a qualified teacher and also have a degree in fashion. I spent seven years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach dressmaking in 2011 from my own studio called MIY Workshop in Brighton. I have written two books about dressmaking: A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts and The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking. Both are available from all good bookshops, and my third book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics is out now! www.wendyward.co.uk www.miycollection.com www.miyworkshop.co.uk

1838 shirt sampler no bigger than an adult's hand

to the second half of the 19th century and thought to have been made by convalescing soldiers. OTHER EXHIBITIONS I’M HOPING TO SEE: • Pop! Art In A Changing Britain – how artists in the 1950s and 60s were influenced by the social changes of the era. On at Pallant House Gallery in Chichester until 7th May. www.pallant.org.uk/exhibitions • Also at Pallant House: Sheila Bownas: A Life in Pattern – showing a collection of mid-century textile designs from this little known designer. On until 20th May. • T-shirt: Cult – Culture – Subversion exploring the role of the humble T-shirt. On at the Fashion & Textile Museum in London until 6th May. www.ftmlondon.org/ ftm-exhibitions/t-shirt-cultculture-subversion

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A handpicked collection of fabrics... delivered to your door



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Suernsdnaupss! yo

£25 TO WIN A

Get in touch letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk

Lorna asked you...


Which do you prefer? Big-brand sewing patterns or indie patterns?


“My favourite pattern is the Ruby dress – I love 50s-style dresses. This weekend, I went with my daughter to a 50s dance event and was really proud to be standing with her, both wearing my creations! It was a great feeling and she looked lovely!”

Star make Alison

Alison has done an amazing job of creating the circle bag from issue 48. We love the mod feel of her colour choices!



You said... “I find indie patterns fit me better and generally need less tweaking.”

Rachel, Holm

Sewn “I made this gorg eous heart cushion by Katy Jones from issue 48 of your magaz ine. I thought it would look fab in the shop window for Valen tine’s Day!” Heather

Heather has made the Lottie coat that was featured in issue 33 of Love Sewing and we think it looks fabulous – great job, Heather!

“Big-brand patterns are easy to find and are often discounted, indie patterns are usually found only online or in large cities.” “I buy according to style not brand, though the big brands are all too same old thing.” “I am just learning to use patterns. I'm enjoying some of the niche independent ones at the moment, there are a couple designed for shorter people and they fit a lot better.” www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 91

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This month we learn all about the wonderful world of hat making and meet expert milliner Emma Fozard I took the step of setting up a millinery business at Marketplace Studios in Stockport, run by Manchester School of Art. What is it you love most about millinery? As a designer I particularly enjoy the visual problem-solving element of connecting colour, pattern and form with a person and their outfit. I focus on making occasion hats and it’s an honour to be part of someone’s special event. I love the feeling I get when a client puts on a hat I’ve made, looks in the mirror and smiles.


e chatted to Emma Fozard to discover what inspired her to take up making hats and headpieces, and what she enjoys most about this unique craft Hi Emma. Tell us, have you always been interested in hats? What first inspired you to start making hats and headpieces? I have happy childhood memories of playing dressing up and loving the feeling of being transformed and the sense of occasion that comes with putting on a hat. When it came to choosing a specialism during my crafts degree in Three Dimensional Design I opted for headwear, which led me to developing a range of headpieces using laminated wood veneer. A few years later when I was getting married and didn’t like the idea of wearing a glittery tiara so I decided to make my own. Following a millinery course I realised there was potential in combining traditional hatmaking processes with my skills in manipulating wood veneer so when my youngest started school

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I love the feeling I get when a client puts on a hat I’ve made, looks in the mirror and smiles Which are your most memorable designs and why? There are so many to choose from! One of my favourites is Tamara (pictured right), which is a bright pink felt perch hat commissioned by a client to wear to her daughter’s Bat Mitzvah; the beech loops are painted black to accentuate the curves and the felt adds a nice contrast to the smooth wood veneer. Do you have any advice do you have for anyone looking to give millinery a go? I attended millinery courses at the Hat Works in Stockport to learn traditional techniques. Once you know the basics you can play around but it’s also a good idea to approach a milliner to get some real Tamara headpiece

06/03/2018 14:45


Emma Fozard Emma is a milliner based in Cheshire who designs and makes distinctive hats and headpieces. She specialises in the use of curved and twisted wood veneer, as well as leather, paper, suede and felt. Emma combines traditional millinery techniques with woodworking and jewellery skills to create one-of-a-kind headpieces to elevate outfits and help wearers stand out from the crowd. Find out more about Emma and her designs at www.emmafozard.co.uk

Trigo headpiece with flat loops showing invisible felt stab stitch

experience. Essentially it’s best to make as much as you can; try out different styles and techniques and experiment! What sewing techniques/skills come in most handy when making your hats and headpieces? Making a bias binding using tarlatan or sinamay is key for edging the blocked forms to add strength; tarlatan is an open plain-weave muslin that has been stiffly starched. Diagonal tack stitch is then used to attach the tarlatan to a felt edge to hold the form of hat as there’s minimal pull on the edge as you’re doing it. Another stitch is felt stab stitch, which lets you sew invisibly by hiding the stitch within the thick pile of the felt – you place the needle in the felt exactly where it emerges and angle in the direction that you are sewing to attach trim. There's also Petersham stitch, which is a tiny stab stitch for attaching Petersham ribbon, as used for head fitting inside the hat; it is ironed to a curve then sewn in with great patience from inside of hat through the Petersham and back over the top into the felt. You sew through the looped edge of the ribbon as it’s closer in texture to the thread so is less likely to show up; go over just one ridge then repeat every two to three loops to achieve an almost invisible stitch.

Hat Trick

If you could design a hat for anyone who would it be and what would it look like? It would be a real honour to make a hat for Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, particularly with her brother-in-law’s wedding coming up! She always looks so elegant and stylish. Her hats play an important part of her outfit rather than just being a quirky talking point. Finally, what have you got planned for the next few months? Apart from gearing up for Royal Wedding fever in May, I’m looking forward to London Hat Week 22nd – 28th March and will be going along to see my Liberty headpiece feature in the Great Hat exhibition.

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Plus much more! par la tête, à HAUTS: Hauts semi-ajustés, à passer variations de linge d’ourlet et ourlet bande d’encolure, coutures apparentes, sur le fil de trame. A, B: Parementure étroit. A: Parties inférieures coupées pinces sur la ligne d’ourlet. C: Poches à d’entournure en biais, l’envers visible devant, bord inférieur des manches et ourlets piqués. D: Pièce superposée élastique et galon acheté. por Tops semientallados, para ponerse TOPS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: de línea de costuras expuestas, variaciones la cabeza, con banda de escote, el hilo Secciones superiores cortadas sobre dobladillo y dobladillo angosto. A: dobladillo. sesgo, revés visible en la línea de de la trama. A, B: Vista de sisa al en el angostos. D: Pieza sobrepuesta C: Bolsillos con pinzas y dobladillos con elástico y ribete comprado. frente, borde inferior de mangas 4), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries/Combinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-1 Chine. Cotonnade, Toile de lin, Crêpe de TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Chambray, anglaise. Contraste D: Dentelle, Broderie de China. Mezclas de algodón, Lino, Crepé TELAS SUGERIDAS: Chambray, Contraste D: Encaje, Broderie. 22 20 18 16 10 12 14 8 TAILLES/TALLAS 6 1.90 2.20 2.20 m 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 A 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 m 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 150cm*** 1.90 2.20 2.20 m 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 1.90 B 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 m 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.60 150cm*** 2.10 2.10 2.10 m 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 1.90 C 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 m 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.60 1.60 150cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 m 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 D 115cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 m 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 150cm*** CONTRASTE 1D 1.40 1.50 1.50 m 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.30 115cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 m 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 150cm*** - 0.80m CONTRASTE 2D - 115, 150cm*** TERMOADHESIVA A, B, C, D

Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Try thread therapy with Marna Lunt P Sew a pretty gardener's apron P Katy Jones's easy cushion tutorial P Make Claire-Louise Hardie's slouchy Breton tee M7390

have neckTOPS: Semi-fitted, pullover tops and narrow hem. band, seam detail, hemline variations, grain. A, B: Bias A: Lower sections cut on crosswise on hemline. C: armhole facing, wrong side shows D: Front overlay, Darted pockets and stitched hems. and purchased trim. elasticized lower edge of sleeves,

E5(14-16-18-20-22) Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Chine. Cotton Blends, Linen, Crepe de SUGGESTED FABRICS: Chambray, Contrast D: Lace, Eyelet.

1∞ 1≤

1∑ 1≤

18 2 1≥ 2 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤

16 2 1∫ 2 1≥ 2 1≥ 1∫ 1∂

20 2∑ 1≥ 2∑ 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤

1∫ 1≤

22 2∑ 1≥ 2∑ 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤

1∫ 1≤

Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " " "


≤" Elastic.




" " "

28≤ 28∞ 28≥ 29 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ 27 27≤ 27∞ 26≥ 27

" "

45∞ 47∞ 49∞ 51∞ 68∞ 70∞ 72∞ 74∞








or Without Nap *With Nap **Without Nap ***With

46, 51cm - 0.50m 6mm. de 2.5cm, 0.50m de Élastique de MERCERIE: D: 1.40m de Galon 6mm. de 2.5cm, 0.50m de Elástico de MERCERÍA: D: 1.40m de Ribete DE LA PRENDA ACABADA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS de busto Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno 120 125 cm 93 95 99 104 109 115 90 A, B, C, D de caderas Mesure aux hanches/Contorno 125 130 cm 98 100 104 109 115 120 95 A, C Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho inferior 126 131 cm 99 102 105 110 116 121 97 A, C 179 184 190 cm 155 157 160 164 169 174 B, D la nuca l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde Longueur - dos, votre nuque à cm 74 73 72 72 69 70 71 71 69 A, B cm 69 69 67 67 64 65 66 66 64 C cm 70 69 69 68 66 66 67 67 65 D ***Con o Sin Pelillo *Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec


14 12 10 8 6 SIZES 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π A 45"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 60"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1π B 45"*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 60"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π 2 C 45"*** 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1≥ 60"*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ D 45"*** 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 60"*** CONTRAST 1D 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 45"*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 60"*** yd. CONTRAST 2D - 45", 60"*** - π D FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, 18", 20" - ∞ yd. ∞ yd. of NOTIONS: D: 1∞ yds. of 1" Trim,

NTS FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREME Measurement at bustline 41 39 A, B, C, D 35∞ 36∞ 37∞ Measurement at hipline 43 37∞ 38∞ 39∞ 41 A, C Width, lower edge 41∞ 43∞ 40 39 38 A, C 64∞ 66∞ 63 62 61 B, D Back length from base of neck 27≤ 27∞ 27≥ 28 27 A, B 25≤ 25∞ 25≥ 26 25 C 26≤ 26∞ 25∞ 25≥ 26 D

Pelillo ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin

McCall's 7390 Breezy blouses

template sheet included











Marca Registrada Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Copyright© 2016, The McCall Pattern not for commercial or manufacturing interdite. Sold for individual home use only and commerciale ou industrielle strictement Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation




A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

C B A D S/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURE 14 16 10 12 8 6 SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 36 38 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 Bust 25 26∞ 28 30 23 24 Waist 38 40 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 Hip 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ Back Waist Length 92 97 83 87 71 76 64 67 97 102 88 92 40.5 41.5 42 42.5

18 40 32 42 17

22 20 44 Ins. 42 37 Ins. 34 46 Ins. 44 17≤ 17∞ Ins.

worth over £8 77 80 Poitrine/Busto 58 61 Taille/Cintura 83 85 Hanches/Caderas 40 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39.5

102 107 112 cm 94 cm 87 81 107 112 117 cm 44.5 cm 44 43



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EMBROIDERY y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend P In-depth articles from Wendy Ward P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Behind the scenes with Jade Earley *All contents subject to change.

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We love



FRUITY Use up leather scraps to make this super-sweet fruity brooch Project ZOE LARKINS

Top tip!

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • • • • •

10cm square red leather 2cm square white leather 6x10cm green leather white thread brooch back gold seed bead polyester stuffing leather glue templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CUTTING: 2 semicircles from red leather 2 cross-shaped leaves from green leather large leaf from green leather backing leaf from green leather flower from white leather

HOW TO MAKE:  Paint a small line of glue down one half of the straight edge of one red semicircle, then fold over to create a leather cone, with the suede side facing inwards.  With a needle and white thread, starting at the point of the cone, sew a small, neat running stitch along the join up

to the top, then continue with running stitch around the top edge of the cone.  Once you have finished stitching around the top, start to gently pull the thread so the leather ruches. Before the hole becomes too small, carefully poke a small amount of stuffing in and fill. Pull the thread tight to close and secure the strawberry with a couple of stitches across the top, making it as flat as possible.  Glue the green crossshaped leaves to the top of the strawberry. Pop a small stitch in the tip of each green leaf to secure, and again at the inner corners.  With tiny stitches and white thread, dot as many ‘seeds’ as you like all over the strawberry. You can push the needle through to

Use a thimble to avoid any excess pressure on your thumbs as you sew

the other side of the leather but try not to pull it too tight as this can make the leather pucker.  To finish, pull the needle out from the centre of the leaves at the top.  Repeat steps 1-6 to make the second strawberry.  Stitch a brooch back onto the leather side of one of the large green leaf pieces and secure.  Take the two finished strawberries, and with the thread that you left hanging from the tops, stitch each one onto the centre of the other leaf set. Don’t pull the thread too tight. Stick the white flower over the top of where you stitched the

strawberries on, grab the gold seed bead and stitch it onto the middle of the flower. Glue the leaf set with the brooch back attached onto the other leaf set, suede sides together. Trim off excess to neaten. Carefully sew a neat running stitch around the set of leaves and through the middle to represent the leaf spine to finish.


Love Leather Accessories by Zoe Larkins, ÂŁ14.99, available from www.sewandso.com

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A clear LCD screen helps you select from the 120 stitches including 7 auto 1-step buttonholes and alphabet.


Designed for every type of sewing, these contemporary styled, well illuminated, free-arm sewing machines with easy to use computerised features are perfect to take your sewing to a new level. The larger arm space and superior feeding system ensure they are equally suited to both larger projects and precision sewing.

This machine has an incredible 91 needle positions and an easy change needle plate to enhance straight stitch performance at up to 1,000 spm.

Quilters and designers will enjoy the AcuFeed Flex layered fabric feeding system and the automatic presser foot lift for easy pivoting.

The atelier 9 is a combined sewing and embroidery machine. It introduces some brand new features such as the Stitch Tapering Function and it even has Wi-Fi !

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The world’s leading sewing machine manufacturer 100 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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